A highway for BUGS to get in your house. Seal this joint!
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- Опубликовано: 2 июн 2024
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If you can’t access this joint because Brick or Rock or Siding is already installed do this on the inside: • DO THIS Before you Dry...
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If you are remodeling and can’t access the outside sill follow this interior video of mine: ruclips.net/video/LIvPla-07fo/видео.html
Lol so the time has come, I'm at a loss even with watching lots of these videos, how does one approach this (my house - photos.app.goo.gl/84dZCuFJKbtd24wn7 ) I'm open to viewers suggestions too. I'm unable to access the sill from inside (about to tear open inside the house and look but...) Even after...
I will remove both layers of siding (even some behind that concrete) and then find the extent of termites but even if I manage to replace that sill, how do I go forward making sure that's sealed off correctly? Put the 7/16 on the old clapboard and 0.5" above it and just liquid flash bottom foot on both sides of OSB and sill board on the bottom and side towards concrete with it sitting on two sill gaskets then stick it down there and then stick some mineral wool in there? Or air dam, big gap, or leave it open (the remaining gap to concrete? Then a flashing that goes near top of concrete on sheathing that dumps to past that concrete then 2" mineral wool and rain screen with covavent and siding?
I wish Matt would come by my house to "crash" my jobsite while installing some bonus product.
On my way!
Sounds bout right
@@buildshow Need my address now? Builder is almost into drywall now. I’m not a builder/contractor but with all your videos - I am now blocked from going into the new home of which I am paying for. 😮.
@buildshow He meant to say my house. I've been slowly renovating it. I'm removing the old sheathing one section at a time, framing in new pela windows and doing the bomber methods using R guard products. It's taking forever cause of my day job. 😂 I have a nice stack of 2" R10 exterior insulation covered up in the North side of the house along with the rain screen. Come over any time. It was a 1950's ranch with more air gaps then swish cheese. 😂😂
Last summer after watching your channel for some time, I went around the entire house and pulled off the bottom two rows of vinyl siding and start strip, taped up the house wrap, and applied Prosoco R guard from sausage tubes around the whole house foundation to sill plate joint. Tooled it off, waited a day for it to set, and put everything back together. Wow. No more bugs. Drafts reduced considerably. It was a fair bit of work to do it after the fact, but it was totally worth it.
We need to do this too. What was the worst part?
@@valeriej291 Making sure that I marked carefully the starter strip location so that the siding would all match up again. I have all the tools for vinyl siding, but you may not. You'll need a siding removal tool like the Malco Sideswiper. If you have wood or composite siding it will be a bit harder but not impossible. Most important tool to have is patience....
Make sure to do the top plates and all the penetrations and the joints of your sheathing, too, and use a good quality house wrap. You don't want any water or vapor to penitrate and not be able to drain out the bottom. I'm doing this with my house as well.
Matt, we’ve completely gutted our 52 year old home in Alabama and are sealing so many openings as you advised in past videos. We enjoy watching your videos every week. Many things you mention are not high cost but take a lot of time to do such as sealing those openings inside and outside. Keep up the great work!
Yeah, im going to put the time in once i replace some parts of my 97 year old house. I'm also planning on opening areas that were hidden with drywall that I think would look better exposed and also show any issues that could be happening easier, such as my utility room, why they put drywall in there I dont know, I'm on slab and its kinda in the basement level if you will that shares with my kitchen and bathroom....utility room is 1/3 the house length down there. If i open up the ceiling in there and clean it up to be able to see things such as my sill plate and some floor joist etc, I live on a rock built into a hill, termites loved my home a tad to much. Will also let some heat upstairs from the boiler room better
I'm building a shed, and I was just thinking about this very problem. Very timely video, and super helpful.
I had the shed builders pause while I ran caulk where the wall base would be to make sure we had a bug-resistant shed.
Love that Matt "sneaks" onto home sites to help improve a home....he loves home improvement that much!
I wonder if he actually finishes it or just does a small spot then leaves.
Totally agree Matt. I took your advice to seal this area on a home we just built. When I did, I was amazed at how many bugs I chased out of that void. Hundreds. Thank you for all the advice.
Hey Matt, I could hear your amigos in the background 🍻
Matt,
What a great detail for catching up on such a build.
When we built this home 7 yrs ago, and following you and Steve Baczek details, I used a rubber membrane gasket and 2 beads of Tremco Acoustic Sealant.
Love the details Brother!
Cheers,
Eric
How did that turn out? Did you put the Tremco under the rubber gasket (on either side of the sill plate)? What was the rubber membrane you used? Did anyone wonder about the method?
Hi Matt, I’m a firm believer in building sciences and I’ve been well educated from you so thank you buddy!
no I am not in the construction industry with that said I did a remodel to a house I owned back in 2005 before these products were even invented! 3 years ago I purchase a brick house in Rural Utah built in 1909 with an addition added 55 to 70 years ago, that’s mentioned in my below post.
I now know more about building sciences then 99% of all homeowners with the exception of homeowners or builders watching your Awesome videos or attending the IBS. (International builders show)
Thanks for the info Matt! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
As an ICF fanboy, it amazes me how many tips and tricks Matt goes over that just aren't problems in an ICF house. Can't wait to build mine later this year
that's my plan too with a concrete roof as well! talk about tornado proof!
@@enkrypt3d you can only be tornado proof below grade. You can make it F3,4&5 resistant but you can not guarantee safety above grade
@@mattbrew11 there are many videos of ICF walls withstanding 200 mph winds... Look it up on yt
@@mattbrew11 ruclips.net/video/0f5pFQ8lNBc/видео.html this house can stand up to an F5 tornado and it's not below grade.
@@enkrypt3d tell me more about these windowless structures
Too bad so many Austin area builders just don’t care about things like this! Check out these massive subdivisions going up - they screw up the most basic things like drywall in the shower and then glue tiles directly to it. No proper support behind, no water barrier at all. It’s sad to walk through them.
Nothing wrong with drywall in the shower if a product like Kerdi is used to tile it.
@@raterus drywall is meant for dry locations with little moisture exposure. Showers have high moisture exposure which can lead to rot and mold if not sealed correctly.
Amazing as always Matt
Rothoblaas has tons of solutions for wood buildings, for that specific area included, nice and snug, airtight and waterproof. Check that out, maybe pay them a visit in Italy, they're just great when it comes to wood.
Also you can have a look on Aerosana Visconn Fibre, liquid vapour barrier.
This is great for slab on grade. But what about when there's a floor joist system? Seems like bugs can come in from the crawl space side.
Seal up the crawl space and/or the flooring at every floor joist, corner, crack, and gap. All you can do is seal everything up as much as possible. It certainly would be time consuming.
Could the cavity be filled in with expanding foam like you did around the spigot before going over the joint with the liquid flashing?
The expansion of the foam could be controlled with tape or a temporary form. It might be faster than tooling the liquid flashing into the recess.
the bottom plate is sitting on 1/4" foam to give it a thermal break... so there is somewhat of a "backing" there already
@@enkrypt3d Yes. After the foam expands and cures, remove the tape/form and, in theory, the surface should be smooth and flat - ready for liquid flashing.
I also wonder if it would work to use only expanding foam and skip the liquid flashing.
I did it Matt's way (tooling into the joint) which took a very long time and used a lot of product; 20+ sausage packs, on 300ft of wall.
I get sticking w/Huber products given the Zip sheathing and that I believe you’re a paid spokesperson for Huber. We however have found Siga Fentrim tape is less expensive, both in material costs and vastly less labor intensive than the Zip liquid flash.
Fentrim tape comes in multiple widths, we use Fentrim 150 & 230 depending upon application, and sticks far better to the concrete without needing a primer. Since our concrete foundations get a liquid or peel & stick membrane water/air barrier, the Fentrim has a felt like texture that Polywall liquid membrane adheres to extremely well. When using bituthene, such as Delta-Thene, the Fentrim adheres to the membrane w/o chemically damaging it. Yes, it adheres very well to Zip sheathing, since we commonly use Zip R-6 on majority of our homes.
I would recommend you try Fentrim tape on your next project, your crew will thank you 😉
I swear you know I'm fixing termite damage on my sill/rim on an old house and stripping two layers of siding and putting zip system up on 1" tongue planking with wool.... Was wondering what to use after it's gapped 0.5" off ground , before the coravent goes up
I’m curious if treating this location on the bottom termination of sheathing using Zip Wall sealant is providing the same protection as the Polywall sealant you had demonstrated on another video. Is one better than the other?
I've been waiting for a video like this. What if your plywood wasn't proud but instead recessed and the cheap "DuraTemp plywood siding panel" was essentially flush with the face with the concrete, would you not want to seal that joint or would you not worry about any water being trapped behind your main siding?
Hey Matt, Love your videos and boy have I been learning a lot!!! Thank You!!! I am going to be building a 12x20' Shed/Workshop on a 12x24 4" Concrete Pad. I plan to use pressure treated for the sill but I am concerned about the one wall that will have 4' of concrete beside it and how to seal it so I don't get water coming in. Would the Siga products be my best bet to use all the way around? I would love your input. Thanks again!!!! Dezi
Good tip. Well done.
That's more than $1000 of caulking to seal these cracks, but I guess there's no cheap way of doing this, it's either Huber gets my money or my local bug exterminator. Thanks Matt - Great video! I live in Oregon and I know that you know that we have plenty of bugs here.
backer rod comes in all sizes.....I think if he used some it would have needed much less product
A lot cheaper solution is to use something like Siga's Fentrim 430 grey tape. This is what I used on my house (and Matt has demo'd it in other videos). It costs about $1.65/ft (for a 6" width) and is significantly easier to apply than the liquid flash, and (in my opinion) does an equally good job for this particular application).
@@mattr232002 Any idea how UV stable tape is?
@@husaberg8501 I only have anecdotal evidence. I took a piece several years ago and taped a seam between two concrete blocks on my patio. 3 years later and there's no way I could pry that off. So it's done fine in full exposure to all elements for at least that long
Glad you are helping out on the details. Those brick ties, are they still allowed in your area? Suggest to builder to replace.
Thank you!!!
Way to go, represent!
Literally at this stage on my build. I will be doing this.
Would a fiberglass tape and epoxy resin work as well? The mess, bond, and seal would be about the same if not better. The cost and number of tubes needed to fill a gap on most projects would be enough for me to seek alternatives. I often think the same about these zip systems. Would a lizard skin on regular OSB work or a composite and epoxy tape over the zip sheathing joints and nail holes?
I thought about doing the same thing with the sheathing to the foundation with protecto wrap, more for air sealing than bugs (bugs aren’t an issue here as much) but regardless this sort of practice should be common
Can I request a build checklist of the most important/most difficult things to correct later. Such as sill plate protection, borate spraying, bug prevention like you did for roaches that may find moist spots under the tubs. Maybe even building access areas every installer wish was there but never is (make sill plates always visible from inside or blah blah). Man, I wish I thought about adding insulation on top of my roof before it was done, what a stupid move on my part. I also think you should have RJ45 plugs in each room on opposite sides with 2 cat6 ran to each spot and never daisy-chained that go to a central location in the utility room. Can be used to power cameras outside too if ran outside. Man I just love your channel and cant get enough and feel like I want to learn it all, I just hate trying to update older homes that are literally already set in stone, its hard as hell , never know what the next issue you will run into is going to be.
And water coming down the Zip membrane: Looks like a flush layout, concrete to the sheathing, so why wouldn't water on the Zip sheathing just go in over the top of the concrete? glad you did this.
Are you asking why you can't just touch the zip sheathing to the concrete and then seal? If so it's because the osb behind the waterproof membrane would wick water from the concrete below. With the gap it's not possible and with the sealant you won't even have condensation chances anymore that could wick up and mushroom the backside of the OSB
Matt! come down the Galveston and crash our 100+ year old house remodel project!
Matt - great information. Quick question - a few months ago you did a segment on your new house where you had it air sealed using an airborne spray done under negative pressure. Is it your opinion that you can do this on an existing finished home (basement only)? If so, what precautions would we need to take to ensure minimal environmental gassing, etc.?
Can this be used to fill gaps in roof / soffit areas? I had pest control company point out some pest access points, but i thought their price was too high so i want to try to diy.
Maybe use painters tape if the duct tape is leaving too much adhesive
I'll be having my home re-sided and was only going to specify using a peel and stick flashing tape in that joint area (3m, etc) for air sealing. Being covered with WRB (Tyvek) and then some polyiso insulation board I didn't consider adding yet another "belt" to my "suspenders'. It looks like it would need a LOT of sealant material the way its shown here, but perhaps I only need to seal the interface/gap area since the tape and WRB should do the rest? I'm planning to overlap these onto the concrete foundation a few inches anyway.
Looking at it, it reminds me of prefilling drywall cracks before you tape, so pretty much the same process you're describing
Nothing prevents you from using cheaper products as a 3rd or 4th belt to your suspenders. Foam rod or spray and a decent exterior caulk, mortar?! anything that will make a certain gap into a mostly certain seal will be better than a wide open highway.
I want to do this for my new build. My builder is using Henry Blueskin. I called Henry and the rep said they don't recommend sealing the framing to the foundation because "hydrostatic pressure" even though I told him the application is above grade. Would like to stick to Henry products but not if they are not supporting this application. Should I look to a different manufacturer since there does not appear to be an advantage to sticking with Henry products or use their 925 BES Sealant as an off-label application?
Do they have a goop or something to put on top instead of the foam on the concrete wall, before putting the wood framing on top of it?
Should you apply the sealant to both the outside and inside (interior of home) bottom sill?
There is another video that Matt did during the framing process where he put the Zip caulking on either side of the mudsill gasket.
I’m remodeling in Phoenix. Dying to rip the stucco wall outside envelope off the home. Want to creat new thicker walls with 12” poly foam (previous Build AZ site video). Since the new 12” insulation wall and green Zip wall are thicker they will over hang the concrete foundation base. Any suggestions how to support the over hang as well as not create a new insect super highway?
Hi. For the video you reference, is this one of Matt’s previous videos? If you find any answers to how to insulate when the plywood overhangs the stem wall, let me know. I think you just have to do the same thing from the underside, which is harder because it is harder to see what you are doing.
Hey Matt,
Will the liquid flash work for going between Zip and ICF or would you go with a Steve Baczek approach and do the double seal under the sill plate?
At 3:25 there is literally a bug crawling down the wall trying to get in the building before its sealed off. Spoiler- it gets inside!
Lol I saw it and was going to comment the same thing.
@@runiniscrazy You and I have a special gift. We're hyper observant. We see things that regular people don't see.
@@TheKingOfInappropriateComments I'm pretty sure I have aspergers so that tracks.
@@runiniscrazy A lot of people do. Even greater powers.
Lol I see it.
How about PROTECTING the bottom edge of the ZIP OSB panels? How can I seal and waterproof the OSB on the bottom of the ZIP Sheathing panels?
Can you do an episode on the Leviton smart load center? Not a lot of content out there on it but it seems like a really useful product.
Good tip. So all around the house and not just the gaps?
Matt, I want to do this but the OSB extends about an inch from the foundation. How do I apply it?
That's all great but can't help to look at that unrepaired honeycombing
I'm missing something, I thought there were tapes that could make this connection, like that siga tape from the video on zipr just a few days ago?
What to do with an old house that already has brick siding and all that. Can this be done from inside if I am tearing up the walls?
I’ve seen the ant version of NASCAR too many times! Great tip!
Could you use the 3 inch tape to do the same job, and fill larger voids with spray foam first?
I hope everyone knows this is a scam.
Can anyone explain why they don't build the framing right to the corner and run the sheathing long onto the concrete? Easier to seal behind a piece of sheathing and let water have to work against gravity to get in
Most carpenters who give a shit typically make sure our framing is square and parallel, regardless of what the concrete does. If we went with the concrete it would be a mess .
@@9mmkahr so what you're saying is the concrete forming should be square and parallel....
@@Ninjump it should. It's not always. Generally it is square and parallel. But there are always dips and humps and bows. Form setting is rough work and the tolerances aren't perfect. Block is usually better in that regard. I've been framing houses for over 20 years
@@9mmkahr I hear you. We have done a few buildings the way I mention, maybe our foundation guys have spoiled us. We also use a sheathing with hard foam insulation on the back so there is more wiggle room there when it comes to conforming to slight imperfections. Giving the form guys a lot of time to check and triple check is a good use of money!
@@Ninjump that's good about the foam... I like that Zip-R.
I was about to say how osb (or really any wood not pressure treated) should not touch concrete.
I don't understand the tape on the concrete i was going to comment the same on an older video using prusco. Matt says we don't want the material exposed to sun light, what happens if it is? Will it ruin the seal for bugs or is it purely aestheticsbif you are covering it does it matter?
We used the tape and sealed the interior sill. Hope it's okay. A little bit of honeycombing on their foundation. Probably okay. I've patched those areas throughout the years.
Bomber!!!
What do I do if my osb doesn't even hit the foundation? I have like a 1in gap between the foundation and the siding. And the OSB is somewhat loose
Matt, wouldn't using Siga fentrim tape to seal that joint be just as effective and easier and quicker to do? Great channel with very useful content.
I think the issue with just using tape is that it can tent or bridge over the small gap at the joint area, leaving a corridor where bugs (ants/termites) can freely travel. The liquid flashing/sealant fills it in.
Hello Matt, how does this product sit over 2, 5 or 10 years? It would not crack? Summer its hot and in the winter its could. How is your experience over the long term?
How does this compare to rguard products (fast flash?)
Can you apply that product from the inside on a brick house?
I wonder why we don't put a sheet of copper in the concrete foundation so when we put that pice of wood on top it pierces into the wood to make a complete wall, then fill in the gaps with some type of awesome liquid epoxy (Calking) to make it really air (water) tight so then no bugs would walk through?
is this compatible with Dupomt Thermax exterior foam boards?
We have a new house and the siding boards are installed and I do not have access to the joint area. How can I do this?
What do you do if you've purchased a house that has bugs coming in under baseboards as well as cold air in winter (assuming that means warm air in summer too lol).
Identify how they are getting into your wall cavities from the outside, which will also likely correspond to how free flowing air is moving in as well. Its then flowing under your drywall and out under/around your baseboard. Once you’ve identified the outdoor issues, fix them, and then also caulk and seal your baseboards exc.
Knock the house down and rebuild
@@wayneguy6043 Seems reasonable lol
@@jimyeats Thank you! Suppose I'll start the search for someone who can locate the problem for me!
In VT the energy code doesn’t permit you to use sill seal, you have to use some kind of caulking
Really? No foam? Why is that?
@@realruggeddiy the same reason talked about in this video. A 1/2” bead of silicone beats that thin sill seal in air sealing. They also want the bottom plate caulked to the subfloor and the drywall has to be caulked to the corner posts, top and bottom plates as well.
How about a sill membrane that you put under the sill instead when you lay it? In Norway we use like a 3-5mm membrane that gets compressed as you bolt down the sill, eliminating low spots. This seems very time-consuming and expensive
can you double layer a sill plate membrane? I know he did an episode with a house seal (rubber house gasket that seemed nice but super hard to find).
@@Hedgehodge- We only use one, which then wraps over the shrathing of the house. The membrane is not liquid, It's not a problem to lay a double sill
I found major rot in our chimney and as I've removed everything down to the frame, it was obvious they never sealed where the sheathing met the foundation and it is absolutely brutal to see. Thousands of dead bugs inside, a bee colony larger than a basketball, and one 2x4 rotted so bad it broke when I grabbed it. 👎
Matt, did you do that to the interior or exterior of the wall?
Maybe have one your guys demo this that actually does this. This demo looks like one of those bosses that try and do one of his employees jobs,but he himself hasn't done it in ages.
Is there a reason you do NOT recommend SIGA Fentrim tape to seal sheathing to concrete in this instance?
You can't even get Zip liquid flashing near me anymore it's always sold out due to shortages
What if I have brick in an existing house? What is the rec for that?
If you take off the brick you can do this. Otherwise follow my advice here: ruclips.net/video/LIvPla-07fo/видео.html
Matt I dont understand why you run the tape on the sheeting and the concrete. Just smooth the product along the seam.
Matt, I just watched a YT video by Weatherproofing America on Zip System failures. I would be great to get your take on what they are saying are some pretty significant issues with the Zip System.
.. Matt have you ever thought of spraying truck liner on a sim . Or automotive spray gravel guard ❓❓
Is it bad to Tyvek a Zip wall? I'm not doing this, just saw it in a custom home.
I decided to reply to the above name and I now realize that it is an account that isn't associated to @Matt Risinger . I didn't really think about what the above comment was, I just responded. The above account will ask you generic questions about how long and what knowledge you've gotten from him and then they will try to sell you a Bitcoin Trading account.
A mesh tape \ scrim would give it more longevity?
Not sure how to do that?
Is this just new building methods? I thought you want a spot for water to escape if it gets trapped? What is expected of the water if it gets behind the zip sheeting? I am truly curious because i am not a builder but these things intrigue me
You never want water behind the zip sheathing that's your wall cavity. That means mold. You do, however, want water to escape from behind your siding.
@@AnthonyBrusca this is exactly what I am saying. Sealing against the foundation will trap water
@@2mustange no, this isn't the siding. You want nothing to get past the sheathing but everything to get past cladding/siding that goes over top of that.
Any water IN the cavity dries to the inside
@@AnthonyBrusca I see what you're saying now. So sheathings are completely sealed? I didn't know that. I thought it still had to breathe for a possible "just in case". So if water does get through a zip system it's no different then what you currently would see with non zip home.
@@2mustange The moisture you worry about with sheathing is generally condensation, not bulk water from the outside. So when you hear people say that a sheathing is breathable, they’re referring to water vapor coming through. (Generally that water vapor is coming from the inside depending on climate)
Hi what name of this item you pout between the contract
Great idea! I have an addition on the back of my brick house built in 1909. the addition was built between the 1950s and 1960s. It has 7/16” fiber board over the 2 x 4 framing with a rotted paper barrier that’s in really bad condition from getting wet Over the last 60 - 70 years. With Cedar Siding nailed on top. bugs laid their eggs underneath the bottom 1” of the cedar siding.
I’m removing all of the fiber board installing 7/16 x 4 x 8 Zip Sheating, with 1” x 4x8 polyiso Atlas Energy shield, Also replacing the cracked cedar siding with LP siding.
Using button caps to attach the poly iso-board to the Zip Sheating. Buying 1x2x 8 ft common wood used as Batons and installing CoraVent on the bottom of the batons. Matt has a video about this. The 3/4” spacing created by nailing The siding on top of the Batons allow a air separation on top of your zip sheeting or your polyiso insulation. whatever siding you buy the siding has 3/4 x 16 on center space x 8 Ft to breathe from the bottom up to the top! Using this methodology you won’t have the issue that I have because the people who installed the cedar siding didn’t know these building techniques!
would you recommend in the northeast?
Anywhere
that zip taping job on the left is horrendous. it’s barely on. that homeowner is going to be pissed down the road.
Seems wasteful to use the duct tape masking on material that’s going to be covered anyway.
He talked about this in a "Zip Sheathing 2.0 video" and some other builders have talked about the guide tape. It is to make it look good and signal to homeowners and trades "the attention to detail". Same for a clean job site. If you don't have a messy job site, the trades will make it worst. If the job site is kept clean, trades will often take more care. Not always, but I can say from personal experience that it helps.
Why would you put that extra bead above and under the gap?
Couldn't you also use some Siga Fentrim tape?
im my humble opinion, aftrer working for more then 10 year in comercial constructions and using all kind of air bariers, the use of duct tape near fouindation is a vaste of money! this joint will get covered! all you have to make sure is that joint is sealed properly!. the other grate product which is more expencie is foil faiced tape! that thing will seal your fraim to concrete fenamenoly, you just have to make sure their is no dust or moist on the concrete or frame.
wouldn't caulk or silicone do the same thing???
Money grab for zip. Just use con ad in conjunction with sill seal. If you’re paranoid, use silicone and do the same method he’s showing $4 per tube vs. $40 per tube. Btw, I love other zip products. In fact I just picked up a couple thousand dollars of the zip liquid flash for the first time, as far as Im concerned this product is nothing more than glorified silicone. Just my humble opinion…
That looks… expensive. I bet some OSI siding caulk would do the same thing at half the price… and that stuff sticks to everything also. ;)
Too bad that liquid flashing is so expensive. Like $50 a 29oz tube.
So, I wonder -- don't builders mind random people coming onto their sites and doing things to the houses that they're constructing? How does Matt get away with this?
How does a well known custom builder with over 20 years of experience with endless connections inside the industry make it onto a construction site to demo a product? Is that an actual question?
The tape is not necessary.... it willbe covered by the siding
It’s gonna take you 3 months to cover the parameter of that house lol
when will build science discover a way to make homes 100% bug proof?
❤
Definitely ALWAYS “push the tip in” just like Matt says. And……that’s what she said.
Hey Matt, when you going to build me a house ?
I've never in my life seen someone use duck tape as painter's tape.
Works great when sticking to concrete!
Is it just me or does that concrete footer look pretty popcorny? Doesn’t seem like the concrete was vibrated very well right in this vicinity….