Zip 1.5 - What about Over-Driven Fasteners?
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- Опубликовано: 26 мар 2020
- In today's video we are going to tackle a question that comes up ALL the time... What about Over-Driven Fasteners in Huber Zip System? I've got some good wisdom for you here, and I'll lay out an economical Zip method I'm going to call Zip 1.5 that will give you all the air-tightness and durability you need! Let's get going!
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On kitchen remodel, builder didn't know about Zip even though our local small town lumber yard stocked it, so I had him install it. I taped it and used a fluid applied on all the nail holes. It was only a 9ft x 20ft wall so didn't take long. Thank you Matt for the knowledge I owe to watching your channel.
To extend your analogy with jacket/umbrella.... This is the rubber boots/ waders/chaps.
Depending on local climate, snow drift can be a much bigger issue than rain splash, for that bottom two feet.
Matt my guess is that your OCD takes over and every nail on that house will be covered. Nice work, thanks for sharing!
"It's just a remodel, that way you're constraining yourself so you can't go too overboard" And next episode it's just the foundation.
OCD is a clinical mental illness....he may be anal retentive...not ocd...then again, he could be
High functioning ocd perhaps?😀
OCD would be telling the crew or going himself and adding the few missing strips of Zip tape around the house! I'm not particularly OCD but that missing tape has stuck out like a sore thumb in multiple videos.
Im 99% sure..no other contractor is as thorough as this guy
He asks the right questions and poses solutions to the issues he identified. Most contractors are stuck in their ways and refuse to use innovations in the industry because they see it as a gamble regardless of the tests proven. A lot of contracting work is cost prohibitive though. He's a quality contractor because he has the budget to match it. Most homeowners don't understand that correlation.
Thanks guys! Very kind
Agreed.
WileyDean I agree but I will say, those who have lived through many decades have seen lots ‘modern’ products lasting a decade or so when they come to fixing an issue down the road. No doubt, things have got better I just think a lot of old schoolers look at 100 year houses with solid bricks and mortar and think why bother with new.
My contractors look at me like I'm crazy right now...
"That's unneccessary, overkill. We don't normally do that. Never heard of that. What's Smart baffle?
This was excellent and timely
Thank you... as a homeowner I’m able to forward your videos to my builder and ask questions... thankfully he is great about us being hands on...
Want to see more about your overhangs since you mentioned them and your overall waterproofing the the last video as well.
Agreed ... can't wait for that one!
Yes, we went from Monoply House to 2ft overhangs. Very interested in the air and water construction used. I have been wanting to build Monoply House with a Hip Roof then continue with an 8ft wrap around roof over a porch then the 2ft overhang. Extra-large Umbrella...
Matt, I've been watching you for a long time and am building my own house now. ZIP was a priority for me. thanks for all your info.
Hi Matt. Thanks for focusing here on finding the right balance of economy and performance. We need to find solutions that can be implemented in modest homes, where we can't always afford the latest and greatest "best practices".
Matt. I am building a home in Houston and love watching your videos. I have learned so much about building quality and building science. As for Zip, I do see the advantages but it really needs more cost effectiveness. Your recommendation to only liquid Zip the holes up about 2 to 3 feet really is not enough. You seem to be assuming only rain water will splash to the lower of the stucco and thus get behind the stucco. Not, here in Houston, condensate will form between wrb and stucco, and if there are nail holes in Zip then this condensate will make its way into the board and over time will rot it. You should think about this and revise your video. In this stage of the build, you have only one opportunity to plug holes ... liquid Zip is cheap and use it and Zip Tape in abundance before the applying stucco/brick.
Thanks for this video I'm planning on building a tiny house and using this method now.
nickwoo2 Save your money and get a Winnebago. You’ll spend nearly nothing and learn to hate it because it’s too small... Then sell it to the next sucker.
Love it Matt. Interested in using zip on my siding remodel... Planning on taking down wood fiber siding..taking down wood fiber sheathing..inpecting and adding insulation as needed... And putting up zip... Would like to see more videos on bottom edge details. Framing is flush with concrete...
I love it Matt. Wish builder's around southeast Oklahoma used the zip system!!!
Thanks Matt for your videos. I have learned a lot, and I will be building my forever house In the near future. Looking for some as dedicated as you up in the Michigan area.
Thanks Matt. I'm hoping you show how you attach the overhang onto the building in an upcoming video.
Love the videos Matt. Keep it up. I would love to see some videos on operating a residential construction company, what that takes, and how you started! Thanks!
If you're hot to trot on the subject there are a few other guys doing videos that I've seen and thought were alright. Jesse Lane is the one name that I remember.
My story is on Build Show Network.com
Hey Matt! Would love to see a video of how you detail the bottom of house between the foundation and start of the wall. Ive seen the fluid applied video where you talk about sealing that bottom ledge, but I would like to know what you do to the siding at that level to hide that seam and allow water flow
2010 project needed very low HERS for permitting, led to Dr. Joes's continuous exterior insulation. House to get stone veneer over, and all the masonry ties become an issue. Any fastener penetrating the water control layer becomes a wick for water. Could not find anything meeting my needs, sheet goods have a problem in "outie" window frame/ boxes (which we used). At every point 3 planes meet, every layer of sheet materials must be cut to turn the corner. Decided on wet-applied over whole house. Tested Barritech VP, which is self-sealing around fasteners up to 1/4" dia. Made OSB test pans, coated, and added fasteners bare, and foam plus fasteners. 2" water evaporated out in one week, with no discernible penetration to the std OSB. Re-did the test with new pans, fasteners and foam, and this time 2" water, then covered the pans in polyethylene sheeting. 1 month, no evaporation, and NO penetration to the OSB substate. Used the Barritech for the house, from foundation to eaves, no problems so far. For context, the risk/ consequences factor can be hinted at by the following: $750k for the masonry contract.
For all sorts of reasons, I think that once you go to exterior insulation, the water and air sealing needs to be absolute over the sheathing/ substrate, and to me, filling a few nail over-drives is far short of the answer. A lot happens to a wall, in the succeeding processes, and you don't see the effects of what you are doing/ covering up.
Matt, three questions:
1) I'm curious if you're at all concerned about the penetrations in the zip from the added on framing for your overhangs? I'm guessing not, but would love to hear your thoughts.
2) are you using pressure treated lumber for the overhangs? Since they are outside the waterproof envelope and are the most likely framing in the house to get wet (from rain or humidity).
3) Are you going to Aerobarrier this house? Assuming Zip 1.5 takes care of water issues in perpetuity, is sealing those inevitable small gaps and nooks (from overdriven fasteners, windows, etc) worth it? Also, would you bring in the aerobarrier guys right after the exterior is finished or wait until drywall is hung and taped/mudded?
(BTW, random bonus thought: you could really bombproof the bottom 2' or so by running a peel & stick around the base of the house, which I remember you doing in other videos. Is that just total overkill on top of the Zip sheathing?)
Just made the same comment about using peel and stick.
Matt...........thanks so much!
Matt... We see little of brick home construction in your videos, yet I have a question regarding Zip and brick. I'd appreciate a little practical education on this... In the process of installing and flashing Zip/Zip-R sheathing, great lengths are gone to to seal all joints, penetrations, etc... Meanwhile, when the brick masons get to work, they temporarily hammer dozens and dozens nails into the structure as they work their way up the walls, then pull them back out as they make progress on the work. As a practical matter, I know of no tradesman who would re-tape, or flash these nail holes as he's concentrating on the brickwork. And I can't envision a party standing around to tape every hole after the mason removes a nail and continues...this all the way through the brick job. So in practical terms, does tight construction lend itself to brick home construction at all, or is the effort largely in vain? I'd appreciate your commentary. TIA.
Okay Matt, I’m about to start a new construction build in NE Alabama and I have laid the 2.0 system on my contractor. Do you still recommend the 2.0 way of sealing the seams and nail holes? I’ve been following you and have implemented several of your techniques. Pleas advise!!
Looking at this, I'm thinking wouldn't you want to do the bottom two feet of any vertical surface at the intersection with *any* surface? So, for instance, I think in the front of the house the garage has a shed roof that meets the second story. Are we also concerned with excess moisture from splashback from the roof of the garage? Or is this specifically to deal with the groundplane?
Love the detail....Trying to find a supplier in the UK of the zip system....but can't find anything....Any idea if the system is available in the uk?
I’ve switched from Hubers zipwall to LPs Builderlogic sheathing. I’ve seen great results, the boards don’t flake on the corners when you cut them, Stiffer boards allow for less flexing and the boards feel like they are more structurally sound. Also you save money using builder logic, I believe they’re 5 to 7% cheaper than zipwall. You get a rebate on the first house you do with the Builderlogic. I use a roof membrane sealant spray at the nail heads and the bottom 6-8 inches gets sprayed as well. This house will blow away the blower door test!
Huber is offering a rebate for first time users as well. Happened to just see it on their website today.
Ultimately, it may not matter, but right now is the only chance that you have to seal those overdriven nail holes. If it doesn't cost too much, why not do it? I agree that the bottom two feet is the most critical area and with foil coated foam insulation, not much moisture will be able to reach the ZIP system membrane, but any moisture that does will not have much incentive to dry out. Part of the perfect wall concept calls for drying on either side of the moisture control layer. Mineral wool does this, but foam doesn't. With foil against ZIP, moisture wicking may be a factor.
@Matt Risenger we'd love for you to come look at some of the jobs we are doing down here in Jacksonville, Florida. We do basically a cross between the 1.5 and 2.0 systems, with some added extras I think you'd appreciate.
Matt working on my own home at the moment. Rockwool with zip r6. Everything is going great, I have a few exterior electrical boxes. Wondering how to seal these along they way. Any thoughts or videos I should refer to?
Do like using the tape & fluid apply for building, remodeling, etc....
It adds the best of worlds, when doing a building
Matt Risinger, what about where the house meets the foundation? I recently discovered that my deck is attached to the house joists and the sheeting doesn’t come down past the decking. To add to this, the siding stops a the deck and water collects. There is no water proofing where the deck and house meet. I was wondering if zip liquid flashing could be applied on the sheeting, deck and house joists, and any other joints to prevent further water entry into house.
Hi Matt, My house is currently traditional house wrap with t-1-11 and with vinyl installed over it. I have found some extensive rot from the vinyl holding moisture against the t-1-11. I would like to re-sheet with ZipR to improve insulation value but I have a concern about this air barrier at the outside perimeter of the wall. What happens if water is able to get into the wall cavity with zipR? Is the water or water vapor able to escape?
I wonder if running a bead on the top edge of any horizontal tape seams would be worth it? It would give me a little more peace of mind knowing that water wouldn't be able to get behind that tape if for whatever reason a significant amount of water got behind the siding and ran down the sheathing.
I think you may be running the risk of doing the opposite of what you're intending. If they specially formulated their "tape" to adhere to their specific substrate (he mentioned it's chemical bond), then i would not screw around with that.
i think if you're doing that you might as well just liquid seal the entire horizontal joint and lose the tape. ZIP 1.75
@@kevinprociw3168 yes Kevin! Zip 1.75. But seriously once you are this down rabbit hole use a quality self adhered membrane product that self seals on 2 plus inches edges, es. If can do it vertically even more robust easier quicker install often less expensive on materials esp if more windows ;no shingling issues thicker vapor permeable barrier . and h can use use cdc much more water tolerant than zip
Help! My question is from minute 4:33 ending at 5m. The 2 inch board you installed to receive the foam.
What are some thoughts of leaving my block exposed to 2 inches to receive my foam instead?
I could use a fluid applied flashing between my Zip and the 2 inches of exposed block similar to the picture at minute 4:55.
Open to all suggestions! All comments welcome!
Matt, can you tell me a maker of a peel and stick wrb with a perm rating of between 5 and 10 perm? I am using J. lstiburek's wall assembly for hot humid climate, with exterior Rockwool comfortboard. Hope you can help.
3M 3015 VP is 12 perm
Would it be fair to say that the Zip System R products may not need the 1.5 approach because of the additional foam on the back?
I was wondering why weren't patching your nail holes.
Is the sheathing getting inspected prior to the fluid applied flashing and tape?
Only issue I see w tape is most framers don’t use roller or do it poorly. Still waiting on the Build hat for Zip 1.5 trademark in previous video 😊Stay safe
Excellent...…..effective and frugal...….I would just do all of them...…..no reason not to,.....120 bucks tops. Plus its quick and simple.....
Remodeling experience is golden when it comes to building houses......from what I have seen, if the nail holes were ever a problem, the sheathing would be shot . In a zip system, you have virtually eliminated the sheathing failure, which only leaves the nail penetrations, so this effectively eliminates that.…..
Yes. Well said
We need this Zip stuff up in Canada
Out of curiosity what is the extra amount of material needed to do an average 2000/sq.ft? 10 extra sausage packs? I'm curious the air infiltration of the over driven nails.
Could you do a video showing how you're building your overhang.
Yes. Coming soon
Not that I am an expert but perhaps you could apply all over the north facing wall as it gets less un exposure. Also if you live in a rainy area where the wind typically comes from one direction I would apply extra on the side facing the wind and the opposite wall as well.
Jake's house was a pretty good proof of concept about over-driven nails. That said, for the small amount of cost/time, why not do all the nail penetrations? A few hours with the lowest-paid guy on the job would knock it out easily. Ironically, in your vid, just above where you stopped, the next row up looked like there were a few nails that missed the studs and were backed out - an air/water leak that should be sealed.
I saw those 2 holes !
Zip 1.0 just tapping seams, Zip 1.5 tapping seams and liquid flashing bottom 2 foot nail holes, Zip 1.75 XD taping seams and liquid flashing All nail holes, Zip 2.0 Liquid flash everything.
@@xX1GuNNy1Xx lol! I called it ZIP 1.25 for selectively flashing nail holes. And 1.5 for tape with flashing all holes.
You are probably saving at least 100 tubes by not liquid flashing all your seams and around all the windows. I speak from experience. I used over 90 on a 2000 sq ft rambler. I would definitely consider ZIP 1.5 in the future. One could argue that this is ZIP 1.25 because you are only selectively filling nail holes. LOL!
What roofing nails for attaching siding a million nails
I am using Zip system for the first time on a build in Northwest Washington. What is your thought on zip sheeting during a winter build where it rains nearly every day? I have had some problems on the horizontal seams at the center of rim joist. I would apply the zip tape on dry days since there is so few of them but i noticed that the tape never adhered properly because water would drain underneath the bottom plate and get behind the horizontal seams of the zip panels. Is it better to wait till the roof is dried in before taping the horizontal seams?
Read the manufacturer's installation manual (www.huberwood.com/uploads/documents/technical/literature/ZIP-System-Sheathing-and-Tape-Installation-Manual.pdf). You don't want to tape in those conditions and are better off using a fluid applied flashing as it bonds and cures in wet weather and on damp substrates. It's going to cost you more but will address your issue.
I am currently building a House of Metal frame and isolated Panels. Should be about Passive house. Why dont you build the slab foundation Higher and Put the wooden framing on top so it is off the ground bit more.? Cheers from Germany
Can I glue tile to zip sheeting in a bathroom? Can't be worse than the tile that was glued to drywall in my house in 1956. Tiles are coming off now.
🤘😎
I am in upstate NY. I like the idea of a ZipR system, but the more I research, the more I like the ICF systems for a new build. I understand that you climate zone has very different considerations. If you had to do your own project in a northern zone, would you have done the same or would an ICF build won out?
Wait till I’m done. My house work work in your climate.
Matt Risinger I know that this system works in my climate, I see new builds with the zip system all the time. That doesn’t really answer my question though. For a new build in my zone, I am wondering what would tip YOUR decision one way or the other.
I don't under stand don't you put a ton of holes in the board when you put the siding on?so why worry about the nails that hang it?
I think Matt smart and correct about this Zip 1.5. The cost of time and money isn’t worth it.
Hey matt...Would another brand like vaulkum be acceptable? In your opinion for nails heads
Hmmm. Not preferred but probably would work yes
Does this go over the plywood?
If I strip my exterior walls down to the bare OSB can I cover that sheeting with another layer of zip or ZipR?
You probably could, but it would probably make more sense to use a peal & stick. If you then wanted to use exterior insulation you could do so with rigid foam panels or rockwool.
Yes, but unless you need extra OSB for strength, can wrap the bare OSB in a quality WRB like Majvest SA and use their Siga tape system to get air-tight exterior. Far more cost-effective than nailing sheets of Zip over existing OSB. Go to Green Building Advisor and check their library for wall details that match what you need. Think 475 Supply also has a detail library.
or look at one of the roller applied sealers he talks about I believe one is from Prosoco and you could still, with siding offf hit every seam and nail with same Zip Flash
Not a professional builder but that might not be the best idea. What are you really gaining by leaving the old sheathing on? It would add some shear strength, but now you have to nail through the old OSB and you can't directly see all of the studs behind the sheet you're putting up. You can always go off of the existing nails but if the original framer was off a bit, now you're going to be off even a bit more than that so you might have more missed nails that are just going right beside a stud and the existing OSB will hold a nail well enough that you're probably not going to know if that happens. Why are you wanting to add Zip sheathing to an existing build though? Is this just to deal with air sealing or is there something wrong with the existing OSB like rot? Even if the OSB looks good as is, it's important to keep in mind that right now the OSB can dry on both sides, with zip sheathing added on top, it would only be able to dry to the inside and that gap between panels would do a good job collecting any water that sneaks by at the top and holding it up against your sheathing. If there is any rot, that's going to cause a decrease in the shear strength of the panels. you need the sheet to be held firmly against the studs so that the nail is just sheared right across it and not being bent. If there's a rotten piece of OSB inbetween that will bend the nail at that spot and it'll take way less force to do that than shear the nail. If you look at the nailing pattern for Zip-R sheathing, because of the insulation on the back they specify a tighter nailing pattern with the nails closer together in order to give it sufficient strength whereas if you look at the same sheathing but without the insulation it'll only need nailed 6" apart instead of e.g. 4".
You could cover up good OSB with Zip-R sheathing, but personally I don't think you really get much from doing so, and there are some drawbacks to it that might not immediately be obvious.
@@AndrewMerts, Might be over thinking the overlay process. We have done hundreds of 1/2'' plywood overlays on roofs and never had an issue. Have done many on walls too. It's easy to find wall studs from the outside. As for the drying issue, never seen an issue, but anything can happen.
Tree branches extending over the roof of a new house, isn't that a bad idea? Roof shingle rot seems to accelerate with each Fall's leave drop. Why wouldn't the trees be cut back to keep branches from growing over the roof?
How much is the tape? If it's cheap enough tape right down the studs, no? Or ask zip to make post it sized squares to patch each hole. I'll take a 10% cut.
expensive. almost 30$ a 90ft roll. cheaper if you buy direct.
I'd much rather use the fluid flash. The tape isn't that bad to apply (rolling gets hard on your back after a while) but it is quite expensive.
at 0.52, those window bucks will allow freeze to go in, window will be pushed too much outside ( in cold climate)
I want to see more about your overhangs, how they attach at the wall and how the sheathing up the slope is sealed to the sheathing already completed on the roof. My curiosity is killing this cat.
Check my Instagram feed for updates from the job. Video won’t be for 3 weeks. We are on a work stoppage for Covid19 now till April 13th.
I know it’s not in your “wheel house” but any advice for anyone remodeling a manufactured home and wants to make their house more energy efficient?
Noah Patterson if you are re-siding make sure you pay attention at sills, top plates and windows. You probably have issues with the duct insulation as well. The ceiling insulation probably does not go all the way to the eaves. If not doing the subfloor check insulation and penetrations below. Unfortunately you can spend a fortune fixing one up and still not be satisfied.
OK so you put a zip on your roof and it’s all taped in liquidy and then you want to put on a metal roof, don’t those roofing nails compromise that? What do you do?
why do we care about the nails here, but what about all of the nails that hold the siding on?
because these nails are over driven and the heads of the nails have exposed the wood, nails holding things like siding wont be over driven and the membrane will seal around the nails properly
@@PicosOmega, Is Zip self sealing like peel and stick ?
@@augustreil The over driven nail can have effect of capturing water with the dimple vs the siding nail. I usually tape mine with 4 inch piece
@@timahern8670, Gotcha, thanks.
I’ve built my house in SW Washington using Huber Zip System, walls and roof. Taped all joints and used the liquid product on the nails only on the walls. Site gets six feet of rain on average and no leaks. My concern is when the rain screen walls are installed there will be numerous fastener holes in the Zip System created by attaching sleepers and rigid foam insulation. There is no practical way to seal these holes. On the roof it isn’t an issue because it’s a standing seam metal roof. Should I be concerned about the walls? To your point about the base of the wall, we used a shop manufactured sheet metal flashing that covers the base of the wall and overlaps the foam insulation on the foundation. Top of the flashing is sealed with Zip tape.
I'm hoping that's covered in the next few videos when the rain screen is added. :)
Great questions i'de like to know the answers to, also.
I have posted recently on a couple of other video's, re: Zip is apparently NOT a self-sealing coating (mechanically it is hard to envision that it could be, per thinness and bonding/ flexibility if the coating. 10 years ago we did a huge, complex, multimillion dollar home, more or less along the lines of the "Perfect Wall". As you seem to be, we felt we could use one set of standards for the roof assembly (protected by geometry and material choice) and a more rigorous set of standards for the walls. After some really tough testing, we settled on Barritech VP as the liquid applied self-sealing membrane for 100% coverage of wall surfaces, which were conventional 2x6/ OSB over. Barritech VP was used with compatible sheet materials to cover the lap onto the poured foundation, and went to the underside of the roof sheathing. Only air channels were the joint between our rafter tails (4" LVL extensions to pick up overhangs of 2' 8" or 4', depending) and the underside of the same roof sheathing. I can live with that small omission. Application is some amount of work, but our tests showed that per manufacturer's specs, 1/4" diameter washered masonry anchors could be installed through the 2" of polyiso foam, and seal (test pans had the assembly UNDER WATER for a month, no issues of water penetration). House was complete in 2013 (walls with $750k stone veneer over, were done in 2012) and there have been no leaks or water/ moisture issues whatsoever. Personally and professionally, I believe (from experience and observation) that the ZIP system is UNDERKILL, because of the issue you have raised, and the inability to self-seal. That led me to believe that my client's money was better spent on a set of products & finished assembly that would absolutely perform as required. Bear in mind, Matt operates in what appears to be a relatively dry and benign climate, and that gives him more leeway than some of the rest of us have.
All this is very nice but , unless you live on coastal waters where high wind could be impressive it looks like overkill ! With overhangs , gutters , foam board insulation , and siding regular construction should be good .
Just curious, how much more does a sheet of 7/16 Zip OSB cost than plain old commodity OSB?
Ryan Roberts About $5 per sheet more for 7/16 Zip
I'm a designer. I'd like to hear from builders on this. Regarding liquid flashing the sheathing to the face of the foundation - maybe we should set the sill plate back from the foundation edge and let the exterior face of the sheathing align with the foundation. Then we could liquid flash directly. I'd like feedback on that idea from builders.
Also, I'm wondering if termite mesh could be incorporated into this spot as well, perhaps embedded in the liquid flash. Any thoughts on that?
This detail was part of a Minnesota build featured in the current issue of JLC "Evolution of a High-Performance Wall" using Zip-R. From my perspective as a builder in Chicago, this was a good read because the detailed illustrations are helpful, the steps you are describing helps meet the important goal of continuity of insulation/air sealing, and the author has given serious thought to real-world conditions with simplified systems that protect against builder screw-ups. The wall assembly in question approaches R-28, but the same principles apply in milder climate zones. See www.jlconline.com/how-to/exteriors/evolution-of-a-high-performance-wall_o
Yes yes yes!! This is exactly what I was thinking to do next time. Pour an 8" wall (instead of a 6" wall) and recess the sill plate to the inside. Then add 2" off outsulation (or buy ZIP R12) and seal the bottom edge which is now flush to the foundation.
@@afs3294 This is a great read. Thanks for posting it! A "perfect wall" for realistic conditions.
Is it necessary to waterproof ZIP System sheathing? I feel I already spent a fortune upgrading from Tyvex as recommended by our builder and now they are suggesting we waterproof with a emerald coat to prevent water penetration at the nails, adding an additional $6k in expenses. isn’t that the whole point of getting ZIP to being with?
Heck no don't do it. Never saw anyone do that and I've been watching a ton of videos about zip installation.
Tyvek 5.0 old school. Put the extra money into Windows and insulation.
Hello...
I have a question for anyone able to answer...i make this question in another Matt R. liquid tape to seal openings and nails.
Ok you seal all the openings, nails, and what not, everything air tide......and than you suppost to do your wall finish, let say with stone venners, or siding, so you end up putting more holes and nails to that wall....so how yo solve that ??
I haven't see anyone air tide sealing the siding nails..
Thanks,...
Between exterior zip systems & interior closed foam were building homes that are almost impossible to remodel.
Good!
such a gorgeous build ... such a shame it has to be covered ha!
Stupid question, in all likelihood, but would it be more cost effective to simply cut 2 ft strips of the tape and run them from the bottom to two feet up at every stud, and then J-roll them in to seal any overdriven nails? I have no idea how much a roll of the ZIP tape costs, so that may be a non-functional financial choice. Full disclosure - I am NOT a builder, but the thought about the tape occurred to me as you were doing this.
Ken, check out my response to Tam Barlas, I answered this very same question. Short answer: it's way more expensive and will take way longer to do tape.
@@bf2wesley Thanks. I appreciate the info! (Though as stated, I'm not in the industry, just curious and love watching channels like this.)
Illinois gets sub zero temps in the winter, 90s in the summer and high humidity and rain fall in the swing months.
I want to see the eve framing detail/overhang
Why not just run 2 feet of zip tape over each nail row? What's the price of 2 feet of tape compared to some of the "caulk"?
I just did the math based off a rough guestimate of the number of holes on Matt's house, and it cost four times as much in materials to do it with tape than with liquid flash. Also, two guys going around the house with liquid flash could probably do the whole house in 15 minutes, and taping would take way longer. FYI, Zip tape is about $20/roll, each roll is 30' long.
(I assumed 60 ZIP panels that would get this treatment, two rows of nails per panel, two feet of Zip tape per row of nails.)
Zip tape isn't cheap. And then you have to roll it - quicker/cheaper/more idiot-proof to use liquid flashing
@@bf2wesley That's what's I was thinking as well. The cost difference here is for sure the labor. Even if caulk is expensive, getting it up on the wall is super quick.
We did Zip 1.5 on my house 6 months ago. I did the nail holes higher than 2 feet from the bottom, which I expect Matt will also do on his house. After we do the closed-cell spray foam, it will seem like overkill. Belt and suspenders, indeed.
what is considered an Overdriven nail?
Should I knock down my 1983 Brick Home and build it back up with this stuff? Oh wait, I am broke...
Thanks Shepherd for giving me a good laugh, I needed it!
@@512bb
No problem lol
Should just coat all the Exterior sheathing with buckets of Henry's. If i were the rough Carpenter just charge twice the price to install Zip sheathing. What a headache .
Why not just do it for all nails on the whole house? How much extra would it be?
2-3 more tubes maybe ? 80-120 bucks.
august plus labor. That’s probably the more expensive part. Time to setup ladders etc
Why not set up a sprinkler on the roof to act as rain and see where your issues are possiblity
Or just use osb and tyvek
Huber liquid flash is insanely expensive..I use titebond, a 1/3 of the cost and a better product...but you get your stuff at a discount so it is probably a mute point
Christian Widebeck can also use black Dymonic 100
I've used a few alternative products to good effect but I will say that the Huber is the easiest to apply and because of it's workability, it gets consumed very efficiently, and seems to last for ever (definitely worth the cost).
What type of titebond? Haven't seen a liquid flash.
You can always hand nail to prevent over driven nails.....
Yeah ... but then you get some noob that misses the nail 2 out of 3 times.
@@johnjacobjinglehimerschmid3555 Exactly. Then the video is titled Zip 1.5 for dents in OSB.
That would drastically slow down the paid workers. Time is money spent on a job site.
whats the point of that you going to drive screws and nails in it not going to make a differnce when your siding go up going to be hole everywere
You mean after for the siding right ? I always wondered about that also and why not just use peel and stick that seals around nails, screws, etc ?
the nails used to hold the sheathing up can have the head of the nail punch through the outside membrane and give a spot for water to get in, when it's a nail from siding the head doesn't get to the sheathing and cant mess up the membrane, the membrane is able to seal around the shank of the nail. think of what the over driven nail looks like holding up the sheathing and then think of a nail thats standing a inch above the sheathing.
calical26 right! And never mind when the HVAC guy comes along after siding and uses a hole saw through all of it...
Bad idea to use zip on the roof. From what I’ve been told, no roofing manufacturer will warranty their stuff without an “actual” underlayment and in some cases they want their specific branded underlayment.
Second of all, it’s a much much better practice and comes out to about same price or less than ZIP system to use 7/16 - 5/8” CDX plywood for BOTH roofing and sides (especially roofing) and use the Hydrogap self adhering membrane where you don’t need to worry about any overdriven fasteners etc.
Hydrogap will seal itself around nails and staples being driven into it.
Not required, the only nails that matter are on the perimeter of the of the sheet as far as shear. According to zip you would have to over drive the fastners more than halfway through the sheet and even then it only reduces shear by 20%. Covering over driven nails is not required period and does not cause problems. Again this info is directly from Huber.
Anyone use a random orbital sander, without paper, to imbed the Zip tape instead of rolling it? Seems like it would go quicker and do the job.
I think it is more about applying pressure to the tape, and the roller does a good job since it has a very narrow contact area.
Red guard the whole house lol
I was thinking use red gard on the nail holes .
Matt should just clear plexiglass his entire exterior so he can show all his guests in the future what his house is made of and how well its holding up. lol
Too much work , who does the taping and caulking? Framer, Sider,
are you stupid?
@@johnsaint6524 Come on man, maybe he's just inexperienced.
@ Matt : very interesting video sir ... it just seems ironic that you have hated so much on using house wrap because you put hundreds of staple holes through it , and now you are saying that a holes through your weather barrier is no big deal ... (past the lower 2-4 feet). You also specifically that the other poorly build house (to your personal home) was not a good example that a weather barrier isn’t necessary. That it was a very leaky house that had huge heat loss that allowed the inside of the wall to be dried out and not experience rot as bad as in a new tighter house . It seems you are forgetting this part .. it was a very leaky (energy wise) house that was drying the insides of the walls , and possibly helping limit the damage those overdriven nails , and missing weather barrier would have caused on the house had it been better insulated and sealed off from air movement going through the wall. Honestly, your friends parting words at the end of that video seemed to contradict what you Both said , that this is not a good example to look at for building practices. As far as your roof “not leaking”..... that was 1 rainstorm... just 1.... that’s hardly proof enough to how long your roof would last.. especially on an OSB sheeted roof . This is just a thought . I usually like your videos .... but this just seems like a bad idea . Would you feel the same way if you had that many holes (because that what all those nail holes are) in a housewrap or on a feel-n-stick membrane , as you have on your OSB zip sheathing ?
I’m watching this later. Locked down in Los Angeles.
$40 and probably half hour of work. well worth it to for the additional insurance.
If you are conservative with your application, that tube could almost flash the entire house.
The nails should be flush, but not penetrate the sheathing. Your nails are over driven per Zip guidelines
No link to BuildShowNetwork.com in the description as promised.
If you are going to tell people there is a link, make sure there is one.
Thanks. Added it.
@@buildshow Sorry, Matt. That comment came out bitchier than it was intended, now that I am re-reading it.
You do a great job and I learn a lot from your videos.
Brick, air gap, and quality house wrap. All you need.
David Moutardier but not all we WANT 😂
No safety glasses? Safe.
The ad before the video was hating on the zip system.