As expected, and as I have seen before- electronic clutches don't work as well at lower settings (which is when it matters) in these drills. Fortunately, this matters less in these full sized hammer drills or drill drivers, because people are not often using them for driving delicate fasteners (or any fasteners) anymore. For almost all fasteners, I'm using either an a mulit-head driver (e.g. 12V Bosch Chameleon), for the small/delicate end, or an impact with mode/settings for everything else. I used to use an electric screw driver for delicate items like Ikea furniture, but the 12V multihead driver has mostly replaced that.
I would like to do some more testing on the electronic clutch with larger bolts and screws, but does anyone actually use the clutch for larger fasteners anyway? I just use an impact driver at that point.
@@UltimateToolReviews Seems that maybe some older guys who developed their habits prior to impact drivers becoming popular about 15 years ago might primarily still use drills for fasteners. Drills are usually a little faster, but much less control and prone to camming out and breaking wrists when binding at full speed. I primarily use them for drilling larger holes
For lag bolts I like the larger Hammer drills with clutch setting Most times we are pre drilling to make sure we don't get wood split If we aren't using pre drills yes an impact driver or a straight impact wrench can be the truck All depends on application
I've used the clutch on my XPH07 when on top of a ladder. My reasoning was to avoid those wrist-snapping binds that could knock me off the ladder. I had to go slow with the hole saw, but I have never had a close call.
@@baseballdude8491 Lag screws require predrilling not just to avoid splitting wood but for proper fastener function. If there is no predrill, the fastener is impeded from pulling the material tightly to the substrate. The smooth part of the shank exists to allow this to happen, rather threads that would maintain any gaps between the material and the substrate
Thank you for this video, this is exactly the sort of thing I have been looking for. I wonder what it would look like if each clutch setting was compared between the Metabo HPT and the Makita. Perhaps the electronic clutch would create a linear stair step, and perhaps the Metabo HPT would be exponential, having a bigger difference with each increase in setting?
E clutch was designed to get the desired sinkness with less fideling with the settings. This thus alows them to open the rest of the settings to drive bigger badder screws which then will be more consisted stair case wise and the longer the screw you go in that setting until gear has reached it limit.
E clutch was designed to get the desired sinkness with less fideling with the settings at lower settings. This thus allows the drill to open the entire settings open on that gear for you to run longer and longer screws of that same screw in that same gear which then will be more consistent stair case wise the longer you go in that same setting until the limit is reached and have to switch to gear 2. Now driving them consistent in the same gear and same setting over and over is a lil finicky and sometimes a little off consistency due to the E CLUTCH systems.
Needed this video. Thanks.
As expected, and as I have seen before- electronic clutches don't work as well at lower settings (which is when it matters) in these drills.
Fortunately, this matters less in these full sized hammer drills or drill drivers, because people are not often using them for driving delicate fasteners (or any fasteners) anymore.
For almost all fasteners, I'm using either an a mulit-head driver (e.g. 12V Bosch Chameleon), for the small/delicate end, or an impact with mode/settings for everything else. I used to use an electric screw driver for delicate items like Ikea furniture, but the 12V multihead driver has mostly replaced that.
I would like to do some more testing on the electronic clutch with larger bolts and screws, but does anyone actually use the clutch for larger fasteners anyway? I just use an impact driver at that point.
@@UltimateToolReviews Seems that maybe some older guys who developed their habits prior to impact drivers becoming popular about 15 years ago might primarily still use drills for fasteners. Drills are usually a little faster, but much less control and prone to camming out and breaking wrists when binding at full speed. I primarily use them for drilling larger holes
For lag bolts I like the larger Hammer drills with clutch setting
Most times we are pre drilling to make sure we don't get wood split
If we aren't using pre drills yes an impact driver or a straight impact wrench can be the truck
All depends on application
I've used the clutch on my XPH07 when on top of a ladder. My reasoning was to avoid those wrist-snapping binds that could knock me off the ladder. I had to go slow with the hole saw, but I have never had a close call.
@@baseballdude8491 Lag screws require predrilling not just to avoid splitting wood but for proper fastener function. If there is no predrill, the fastener is impeded from pulling the material tightly to the substrate. The smooth part of the shank exists to allow this to happen, rather threads that would maintain any gaps between the material and the substrate
Thank you for this video, this is exactly the sort of thing I have been looking for. I wonder what it would look like if each clutch setting was compared between the Metabo HPT and the Makita. Perhaps the electronic clutch would create a linear stair step, and perhaps the Metabo HPT would be exponential, having a bigger difference with each increase in setting?
E clutch was designed to get the desired sinkness with less fideling with the settings. This thus alows them to open the rest of the settings to drive bigger badder screws which then will be more consisted stair case wise and the longer the screw you go in that setting until gear has reached it limit.
Wise as*
E clutch was designed to get the desired sinkness with less fideling with the settings at lower settings. This thus allows the drill to open the entire settings open on that gear for you to run longer and longer screws of that same screw in that same gear which then will be more consistent stair case wise the longer you go in that same setting until the limit is reached and have to switch to gear 2. Now driving them consistent in the same gear and same setting over and over is a lil finicky and sometimes a little off consistency due to the E CLUTCH systems.