NOTE: Impact drivers are NOT THE SAME as hammer drills. I noticed a lot of people asking about using the impact driver for concrete. Use a hammer drill with concrete bits. A hammer drill strikes axially towards the point of the bit, and impact driver strikes tangentially. So an impact driver's hammer helps rotate the bit. A hammer drill hammers the bit into the material.
I just watched a nearly 12 minute video about impact drivers and it excited me and now I want one. Take this as a lesson, kids: You can still learn things about yourself even at 43.
Your impact drill shank got clogged with wood shavings when it got deeper into the stack of wood...you didn't hit anything. The same happens with regular drill bits. You have to pause your drilling, pull out the bit from the wood, clear the wood build-up, then finish your hole.
Thanks! I gave a friend a cordless 1/2" drill and 1/4" impact driver kit, and he has yet to use the impact driver. Hopefully your video will assist him in seeing how the impact driver is more efficient as a driver than the drill?
1 major difference you forgot to mention, you wont break ya wrist with an impact driver, where as a drill (if stuck or trying to get tighter etc) has a chance to spin hard an either break ya wrist or spin and smack ya hard :D edit: (as somone else mentioned)
I’ve had this issue a couple of times cutting holes to run Romex through or a 4.5 inch for duct work or even a 6inch cutout attachment. It messed up my wrist a couple of times. I’ve tried different settings and I’m using the dewalt hammer drill xr no idea if there’s a way to fix this
Isn't that why the chuck is there? I mean the impact doesn't have a break like the chuck gives you. So if your nearing the end it will run and twist where as a driver will start to rattle
I had a woodworking business and drove hundreds of screws every day, and even though I had a couple of impact drivers , I used a drill, as the impact drivers were just too noisy indoors.
Long tool operations are not just a concern for the motor overheating. The batteries also take a beating and can get hot during extended discharge. It is a bad idea to run the heck out of a battery and then immediately throw them on a charger. They need to cool down first.
If you had to stop your operation due to the battery overheating, it’s the manufacturers fault! Batteries are designed to be able to deliver ~20% more current than your machines draw during loaded operation. This 1/5 buffer margin on top prevents thermal shutdown of your battery. If you run into thermal shutdown regularly, it‘s a clear sign that the buffer margin has been decreased by the manufacturer in order to decrease cost by a small amount but decrease its lifetime significantly! Now regular usage will damage batteries much more than usual, hence performing exponentially worse with time and forcing you to buy a new one in less time than otherwise possible, had the buffer been left around those 20% to equalize any battery aging effects. TI’s Batteries (Ryobi, Milwaukee, AEG,…) are designed in a proper way with enough buffer to be able to power all their different tools over the long run. Many more Brands are properly designing their batteries, please feel free to add those ones below!
Correct. However I use the crap out of my power tools every day, but haven’t ran into this from typical use though. For me it’s usually due to environmental/ambient temperature, and that’s only happened to me in the winter months (I’m sure others do as well, but Milwaukee chargers will blink certain led’s if battery is too cold/too hot and waits to begin charging sequence).
Most battery chargers at least the Milwaukee won’t allow the battery to charge if it’s too hot. It lets it cool down first so the customer never has to think about this. Get with the times
I used an impact driver a lot when I was in the USAF. One of my tasks was to take off panels on an airplane so specialists could get access to equipment and repair it. The panels were attached using nut plates. There were thousands of nut plates on each airplane. The slot in the nut plate would get worn off so a speed wrench could not get a grip. Our impact drivers were manual. We would hit the tool with a hammer, that would drive the bit down and twist it, making maximum use of what grip that remained. That saved a lot of calls to machinists to drill it out. I bought one for use at home.
These "impact drivers" are a different thing. They have no downward force other than what you apply with your arm. I totally know what you are talking about though, and have one for stripped out screws too. The thing you used is more for removing screws/bolts. Impact drivers are more for forcing screws to turn into materials by tapping them in a rotational direction.
@@Vincerama I don’t know any power tool that have a downward force to supposedly drive a screw in automatically! But that would be super cool and beneficial if some company has the technology to produce it to the tool market in today’s time!
I Remember Using Them In The 70's When I Was Just A Kid!! You Would Strike It With A Brass Hammer! I Would Help At The Gas Station When I Was 8! I Started Working Down There When I Turned 9! So I Did All The Shitty Work The Mechanic Did Not Want To Do!! I Installed 8 Track Tape Players With Quadraphonic Stereo Sound! Changed Brakes And Basically Swapped Parts! When I Turned 16 i Started Running The carwash That Was In The Parking Lot!
One thing to remember is that you must use bits that are designed for impact driver. Those bits are manufactured with a torque zone to accommodate the extra torque an impact driver delivers compared to a drill. A regular bit will break after encountering resistance.
Exactly i find an impact driver used on wood will sometimes strip the wood when it reaches the full depth it just spins around meaning it has lost most of its holding power. In the same situation just using a drill driver it can easily bury the screw right in below the surface without stripping the wood. I only ever use the impact for putting in metal screws screwing into metal.
I am using a 12V Bosch impact driver a lot. I found that the screws hardly ever brake as they can often do using a drill/screedriver when driving into hardwood especially,
Cool n informative upload explaining differences, advantages n disadvantages of each tool ! Kudos for vid. New subscriber because of this vid. Anticipating ur next one. Peace
Your drill bit bound up once you had all of the flutes buried, you didn't hit anything, it's just that the bit could no longer eject the cuttings to clean out the hole. If you'd have lifted to eject the cuttings, you could have buried the bit easily
Great informative video thank you! I am curious about how the impact driver works when you bottom out a screw. Will it in fact keep spinning and strip that screw head ? I suspect it will, making a drill/screwdriver with a variable torque setting release more advantageous for delicate operations in which you do not want that screw head to get scarred or damaged beyond recoverability. I usually set the clutch to a medium setting and adjust up or down in sensitivity to a suitable clutch setting for the particular application. I haven't used my impact driver yet, but my first project will have exposed screw heads and could use the advice. Thank you!
Always use protective glasses when using an impact driver. You will notice that the illumination light shows up a fine metallic dust is produced at the screwhead. You do not want this dust in your eyes!! Uncomfortable and embedded metallic dust might cause severe damage should you need an MRI scan in the future
I genuinely thought the main reason men use these, is so their wife thinks they are REALLY busy. That racket, pierces for about 6 neighbours’ homes. Massive nuisance. Instead, have an ordinary electric driver, and grease or wax the screw beforehand. As with the impact driver, as I tell my daughters ‘Lots of force (on the back of the driver), a little trigger.’ Which works for both. The main benefit I have found - imho - is on rusted motor vehicle bolts etc. You can break rust, and may not even need to hold the other end that’s awkward to get at, because it’s hammer action and the speed, has that benefit. But, they’ve become very popular, especially if you are not going to buy more than one electric driver, I guess you’ll get the impact. Interesting and useful explanation, thanks.
what about another application of impact driver or drill compare with metal plat material, and also concrete wall material ? which one better, or recommeded ?
Yes. If you get one strong enough, you can loosen the rim nuts on your wheels. Some of them are as powerful as air pressure ones, which is great for when there is no compressor around.
Impact drills are better for drilling metal--they are used a lot in the construction industry for fastening cold rolled steel using self-drilling screws, or for drilling holes prior to tapping them with threads.
my question is as long as I have compatible parts should if I get spare cash for chrismas while I am not going to get rid of my drill would you recommed I get an impact driver I need a drill bit that is 1/16 and standard compatible philips and flat head bits would you suggest I get the driver than find compatible bits thoughts please thank you
Try The New Ryobi One+ HP 4 Mode Impact Driver Or If You Are In To dewalt They Have The Atomic 3 Speed Impact Driver In Both Compact And Regular Versions! Both Brands Have Great products But You Have To Be weary Of Their Cheaper Versions!
Noticed your edit after driving the rss screw. The bit jammed in the collet - i assume because it's not as good a fit as it should be for that type of heavy work. A little misleading that you didn't mention that flaw.
A mains powered hammer drill is always best for brick and concrete, but if you don't have mains power second best is cordless drill with hammer drill function imo.
Speed and torque (power) are the same on a drill and impact driver with the same chassis and motor - when measured at the same MOTOR RPM. It's the lower gear ratios of the impact drive that makes the impact driver have more power at lower bit RPMs.
Not really. For concrete you need a hammer drill. The hammer drill works by moving the drill bit forward/backward really fast, replicating the hammer motion similar to using a hand hammer on a nail. On an impact driver, the hammer motion rotates in the same direction the bit is turning, so the bit does not move forward/backward.
I never abuse my tools and driving screws this long requires a pilot hole to help it out and keep it straight. Your tools will last much longer if you use pilot holes~!
I find impact drivers overpower the fasteners and strip them out or drive them too far in. I'm going to buy a separate cordless drill and use the clutch to drive fasteners more effectively. My impact drivers will be used for sockets.
I would enjoy the video if you explained what you are saying. As someone who has barely used a drill and never owned a power tool, this video was 37% helpful. Since this is a beginner video on the tool, please elaborate on the fancy terms.
A drill driver with a variable clutch is more precise and quieter. I use my impact with a drill bit to pre-drill. That Panasonic is painfully slow, try a Milwaukee or DeWalt
Remember to wear Safety Glasses always when using a impact driver or any power tool. They haven’t transplanted eyes yet and you only have two. Safety First
good info! what type of drill would you use on a motorcycle taking out bolts for like an oil change? Want to make sure not to have too much power and scrip the threads. I see mechanics using some sort of drill to remove low torque bolts, such as the oil filter cover bolts. thx
You might be thinking of a compact ratchet wrench.. But if you have to decide between impact driver and drill, DEFINITELY use the former. As the guy in this video mentions, power is proportional to speed. Since you don't need a lot of torque to remove oil pan bolts, you can just use the slow mode on the impact wrench to get it off nicely. Either way, I'd suggest using a hand wrench because battery powered stuff is the best way to strip bolts.
Milwaukee makes an electric screwdriver drill, it’s around $100 at Home Depot, and it has a clutch system on it, so you can set “torque” you want and once it reaches it, the clutch will slip so you can’t over tighten
Seriously, my Milwaukee drill has more than enough to torque to drive as well as any 1/4 impact. It can drive a 14 inch screw through a hardwood beam, so whats the point of buying an impact driver as well ?. Just buy a quality drill in the first place. As for the collet style bit holder, they sell those to fit a drill chuck and any quality chuck has locating lugs to securely centre a bit holder.
You didn't mention a critical fact - the drill has a clutch, so that you don't over-tighten or strip a screw. The driver doesn't have a clutch. Or am I wrong?
Just because a bit has a hex shank doesn’t mean it was designed for use in an impact gun. I thought that part of this video was incorrect and kind of silly hahaha
As that’s not what he said so I don’t see your point. He said (after the hex statement) specifically designed for ………” back to referencing the drill it’s self. The hex shank on a drill enables one to see that’s it’s OK to use in an impact and will take the additional forces. What’s to understand here? Bob England
NOTE: Impact drivers are NOT THE SAME as hammer drills. I noticed a lot of people asking about using the impact driver for concrete. Use a hammer drill with concrete bits. A hammer drill strikes axially towards the point of the bit, and impact driver strikes tangentially. So an impact driver's hammer helps rotate the bit. A hammer drill hammers the bit into the material.
2:pm an excellent explanation. Leaves no question unanswered.😊
Didn’t even have to watch the video thank you for your comment
this, thank you
I actually did think of hammer drills when I looked up this video! So thank you.
Excellent
I just watched a nearly 12 minute video about impact drivers and it excited me and now I want one. Take this as a lesson, kids: You can still learn things about yourself even at 43.
Never too late! You can check out some of our other best impact driver videos to see which one best fits your needs. Thanks for watching!
You won't want it after you use it. Maybe for deck work but for general home improvement tasks...I never use my impact driver.
43? You aren't 83, that is young.
Got my first one at 48, learning should never end.
Impact drivers work much better than drills for driving screws. You won't be disappointed
I just love how you explained in detail the mechanisms
Your impact drill shank got clogged with wood shavings when it got deeper into the stack of wood...you didn't hit anything. The same happens with regular drill bits. You have to pause your drilling, pull out the bit from the wood, clear the wood build-up, then finish your hole.
It the machinist world, called peck drilling. Should be used in all drilling operations.
"finish your hole"
Hubba hubba!
Thanks! I gave a friend a cordless 1/2" drill and 1/4" impact driver kit, and he has yet to use the impact driver. Hopefully your video will assist him in seeing how the impact driver is more efficient as a driver than the drill?
Thanks! I was using a drill for fence repairs. Now I know the impact is just as effective. I appreciate your video 🙏👍
Glad we could help! And we appreciate you for watching! 😄
Got a 4 piece kit and impact driver came with.... Thank God for RUclips and informative ppl like you
1 major difference you forgot to mention, you wont break ya wrist with an impact driver, where as a drill (if stuck or trying to get tighter etc) has a chance to spin hard an either break ya wrist or spin and smack ya hard :D
edit: (as somone else mentioned)
"ya"
I’ve had this issue a couple of times cutting holes to run Romex through or a 4.5 inch for duct work or even a 6inch cutout attachment. It messed up my wrist a couple of times. I’ve tried different settings and I’m using the dewalt hammer drill xr no idea if there’s a way to fix this
Isn't that why the chuck is there? I mean the impact doesn't have a break like the chuck gives you. So if your nearing the end it will run and twist where as a driver will start to rattle
Rookie 😂
I've had one for 2 years and never used it because I didn't know what it was for. 😅 Thank you for explaining this to me.
That’s what she said…😂
I had a woodworking business and drove hundreds of screws every day, and even though I had a couple of impact drivers , I used a drill, as the impact drivers were just too noisy indoors.
Long tool operations are not just a concern for the motor overheating. The batteries also take a beating and can get hot during extended discharge. It is a bad idea to run the heck out of a battery and then immediately throw them on a charger. They need to cool down first.
If you had to stop your operation due to the battery overheating, it’s the manufacturers fault! Batteries are designed to be able to deliver ~20% more current than your machines draw during loaded operation. This 1/5 buffer margin on top prevents thermal shutdown of your battery. If you run into thermal shutdown regularly, it‘s a clear sign that the buffer margin has been decreased by the manufacturer in order to decrease cost by a small amount but decrease its lifetime significantly! Now regular usage will damage batteries much more than usual, hence performing exponentially worse with time and forcing you to buy a new one in less time than otherwise possible, had the buffer been left around those 20% to equalize any battery aging effects. TI’s Batteries (Ryobi, Milwaukee, AEG,…) are designed in a proper way with enough buffer to be able to power all their different tools over the long run. Many more Brands are properly designing their batteries, please feel free to add those ones below!
Correct. However I use the crap out of my power tools every day, but haven’t ran into this from typical use though.
For me it’s usually due to environmental/ambient temperature, and that’s only happened to me in the winter months (I’m sure others do as well, but Milwaukee chargers will blink certain led’s if battery is too cold/too hot and waits to begin charging sequence).
Most battery chargers at least the Milwaukee won’t allow the battery to charge if it’s too hot. It lets it cool down first so the customer never has to think about this. Get with the times
I used an impact driver a lot when I was in the USAF. One of my tasks was to take off panels on an airplane so specialists could get access to equipment and repair it. The panels were attached using nut plates. There were thousands of nut plates on each airplane. The slot in the nut plate would get worn off so a speed wrench could not get a grip. Our impact drivers were manual. We would hit the tool with a hammer, that would drive the bit down and twist it, making maximum use of what grip that remained. That saved a lot of calls to machinists to drill it out. I bought one for use at home.
You were sheet metal? Im metals tech.
You would appreciate the old school way they use to set, hit, twist, hit...repeat... concrete chisels to bore holes before powered rotary hammers.
These "impact drivers" are a different thing. They have no downward force other than what you apply with your arm. I totally know what you are talking about though, and have one for stripped out screws too. The thing you used is more for removing screws/bolts. Impact drivers are more for forcing screws to turn into materials by tapping them in a rotational direction.
@@Vincerama
I don’t know any power tool that have a downward force to supposedly drive a screw in automatically!
But that would be super cool and beneficial if some company has the technology to produce it to the tool market in today’s time!
I Remember Using Them In The 70's When I Was Just A Kid!! You Would Strike It With A Brass Hammer! I Would Help At The Gas Station When I Was 8! I Started Working Down There When I Turned 9! So I Did All The Shitty Work The Mechanic Did Not Want To Do!! I Installed 8 Track Tape Players With Quadraphonic Stereo Sound! Changed Brakes And Basically Swapped Parts! When I Turned 16 i Started Running The carwash That Was In The Parking Lot!
One thing to remember is that you must use bits that are designed for impact driver. Those bits are manufactured with a torque zone to accommodate the extra torque an impact driver delivers compared to a drill. A regular bit will break after encountering resistance.
Thank you so much. I didn’t pass third grade so this video saved my life.
😂
Excellent tutorial, well explained, easy to understand⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Its easy to strip the wood when driving a screw with a impact driver whereas a drill has an adjustable clutch.
Exactly i find an impact driver used on wood will sometimes strip the wood when it reaches the full depth it just spins around meaning it has lost most of its holding power. In the same situation just using a drill driver it can easily bury the screw right in below the surface without stripping the wood. I only ever use the impact for putting in metal screws screwing into metal.
Best explanation on impact driver. Thank you!
Great explanation. Answered my questions. I am picking up an impact drill tomorrow.
Also make sure you use impact rated drivers. Normal rated driver bits will wear out or break quickly
Good call!
all questions answered, very helpful
Sometimes a clutch like in most drills is better at limiting the torque in certain applications.
I am using a 12V Bosch impact driver a lot. I found that the screws hardly ever brake as they can often do using a drill/screedriver when driving into hardwood especially,
Would an impact driver be effective for removing anode rod on/inside a water heater?
Cool n informative upload explaining differences, advantages n disadvantages of each tool ! Kudos for vid. New subscriber because of this vid. Anticipating ur next one. Peace
Your drill bit bound up once you had all of the flutes buried, you didn't hit anything, it's just that the bit could no longer eject the cuttings to clean out the hole. If you'd have lifted to eject the cuttings, you could have buried the bit easily
It Never Was Worth A Crap To Start With!
Awesome video. Very helpful. Thank you!
Thank you for explaining
Great informative video thank you!
I am curious about how the impact driver works when you bottom out a screw. Will it in fact keep spinning and strip that screw head ? I suspect it will, making a drill/screwdriver with a variable torque setting release more advantageous for delicate operations in which you do not want that screw head to get scarred or damaged beyond recoverability. I usually set the clutch to a medium setting and adjust up or down in sensitivity to a suitable clutch setting for the particular application. I haven't used my impact driver yet, but my first project will have exposed screw heads and could use the advice. Thank you!
Thankyou for the video This was very helpful for me 🎉
All I know is a manufacturer where I live has been using the same makitas for over 10 years and haven't heard any issues out of them yet.
Always use protective glasses when using an impact driver. You will notice that the illumination light shows up a fine metallic dust is produced at the screwhead. You do not want this dust in your eyes!! Uncomfortable and embedded metallic dust might cause severe damage should you need an MRI scan in the future
Thank you very much. Great video.
Was very helpful thank u..
Glad we could help, thanks for watching!
Thank you Sir. Helped me lot.🎉
Thought this was a shopping channel. Loved the ‘a whole ton of run-out’ comment if thr bit isn’t centered in the chuck😂.
What is best to drill holes in ceramic tile, like in your bathroom when you need to install a towel rack or any other reason?
Use a glassdrill for ceramic ! Get perfect rond hole’s
Hello, I think the topshak impact driver is a machine worth examining, a comparison with other impact drivers would be nice.
I genuinely thought the main reason men use these, is so their wife thinks they are REALLY busy. That racket, pierces for about 6 neighbours’ homes. Massive nuisance. Instead, have an ordinary electric driver, and grease or wax the screw beforehand. As with the impact driver, as I tell my daughters ‘Lots of force (on the back of the driver), a little trigger.’ Which works for both. The main benefit I have found - imho - is on rusted motor vehicle bolts etc. You can break rust, and may not even need to hold the other end that’s awkward to get at, because it’s hammer action and the speed, has that benefit. But, they’ve become very popular, especially if you are not going to buy more than one electric driver, I guess you’ll get the impact. Interesting and useful explanation, thanks.
Thanks for posting this video, very good explanations.
what about another application of impact driver or drill compare with metal plat material, and also concrete wall material ? which one better, or recommeded ?
Does the hammer action work in reverse on an impact driver?
Yes. If you get one strong enough, you can loosen the rim nuts on your wheels. Some of them are as powerful as air pressure ones, which is great for when there is no compressor around.
Thank you 🍻 you explained that perfect I didn’t even have to set down my beer
Impact drills are better for drilling metal--they are used a lot in the construction industry for fastening cold rolled steel using self-drilling screws, or for drilling holes prior to tapping them with threads.
There are impact drivers & drill drivers… an “impact drill” does not exist in today’s market.
How about doing a comparison of Bosch's 12 volt impact and pocket drivers. I can't find much said about pocket drivers. Thank you.
A bosch 12v pocket size impact driver? You'd have more luck bashing the screw in with your forehead 🤣
Do we get torque setting in impact drill machines
Very credible! Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video
Does the impact tool have an advantage over the drill when piercing masonry?
No, we'd definitely go with a hammer drill for drilling in concrete.
Impact drivers can be loud so hearing protection might also be advisable
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
my question is as long as I have compatible parts should if I get spare cash for chrismas while I am not going to get rid of my drill would you recommed I get an impact driver I need a drill bit that is 1/16 and standard compatible philips and flat head bits would you suggest I get the driver than find compatible bits thoughts please thank you
will an impact drill remove lag bolts screw into wood ?
For. a moment there, while you were driving that 10 foot long screw, my mind went to an alternate dimension.
Very good video, thanks.
Try The New Ryobi One+ HP 4 Mode Impact Driver Or If You Are In To dewalt They Have The Atomic 3 Speed Impact Driver In Both Compact And Regular Versions! Both Brands Have Great products But You Have To Be weary Of Their Cheaper Versions!
Was helpfull 👍😊
Anyone know what brand of bit he was using in this video?
Good explanation 👍
Good Job, thanks.
Thank you for explaining it's specs, can I use it with brick wall or concrete for light duties?
Yep
That's not the best choice. Get a hammer drill. It hammers into the concrete, breaking the little rocks the drill runs into.
You can but it wont be as fast and powerfull as an hamerdrill
Very good video.
Thank you.
Noticed your edit after driving the rss screw. The bit jammed in the collet - i assume because it's not as good a fit as it should be for that type of heavy work. A little misleading that you didn't mention that flaw.
For driling into exterior brick walls, do I use an impact driver? if so, which type or how many watts impact driver do I need?
A mains powered hammer drill is always best for brick and concrete, but if you don't have mains power second best is cordless drill with hammer drill function imo.
Hello again Pro Tool Reviews
Thank you for another Great Video 👍 That was a great review 👍 Again thank you
Good video.
Speed and torque (power) are the same on a drill and impact driver with the same chassis and motor - when measured at the same MOTOR RPM. It's the lower gear ratios of the impact drive that makes the impact driver have more power at lower bit RPMs.
Can an impact driver be used with good results drilling concrete? I'm thinking that in a pinch it might act like a root-hammer?
Not really. For concrete you need a hammer drill. The hammer drill works by moving the drill bit forward/backward really fast, replicating the hammer motion similar to using a hand hammer on a nail. On an impact driver, the hammer motion rotates in the same direction the bit is turning, so the bit does not move forward/backward.
A good way to describe a impact driver is it hammers as it drills .
A 3-D video graphic would be good
I never abuse my tools and driving screws this long requires a pilot hole to help it out and keep it straight. Your tools will last much longer if you use pilot holes~!
AWESOME review. Thank you
Should have showed the still screwing in the big long screw for comparison.
I find impact drivers overpower the fasteners and strip them out or drive them too far in. I'm going to buy a separate cordless drill and use the clutch to drive fasteners more effectively.
My impact drivers will be used for sockets.
😊 very nice
It is nice that you have a goggles, safety first......on your work table!!! 🤣🤣🤣
Why is the thumb nail a mikwakee driver which is what I wanted to see, instead it's greenworks which as far as I'm aware we don't have in the uk
I would enjoy the video if you explained what you are saying. As someone who has barely used a drill and never owned a power tool, this video was 37% helpful. Since this is a beginner video on the tool, please elaborate on the fancy terms.
greenworks? deadass?
A drill driver with a variable clutch is more precise and quieter. I use my impact with a drill bit to pre-drill. That Panasonic is painfully slow, try a Milwaukee or DeWalt
Remember to wear Safety Glasses always when using a impact driver or any power tool. They haven’t transplanted eyes yet and you only have two. Safety First
Safety squints engaged!
Thanks Norm!
The largest problem with most IMPACT drivers is that you cannot TURN-OFF the “IMPACT” feature if needed at times.
Can I use a electric impact Driver to drill a metal?
Yes
good info! what type of drill would you use on a motorcycle taking out bolts for like an oil change? Want to make sure not to have too much power and scrip the threads. I see mechanics using some sort of drill to remove low torque bolts, such as the oil filter cover bolts. thx
You might be thinking of a compact ratchet wrench.. But if you have to decide between impact driver and drill, DEFINITELY use the former. As the guy in this video mentions, power is proportional to speed. Since you don't need a lot of torque to remove oil pan bolts, you can just use the slow mode on the impact wrench to get it off nicely. Either way, I'd suggest using a hand wrench because battery powered stuff is the best way to strip bolts.
Milwaukee makes an electric screwdriver drill, it’s around $100 at Home Depot, and it has a clutch system on it, so you can set “torque” you want and once it reaches it, the clutch will slip so you can’t over tighten
How it go on colorbond steel
we need more video like this
Surprised to see how long it took to it drive that long screw.
I love you.
Whenever I use Phillips screws, it strips the head
Those safety glasses work better when situated over your eyes…😜👓🤓
6:22 every machine is a smoke machine if you operate it wrong enough! 😂
Impacts are mainly use for small fasteners where your doing a lot of them for big fastness use a drill
A demonstration of the slowest impact driver
A Dewalt would have made little work of that long fastener. Thanks.
Seriously, my Milwaukee drill has more than enough to torque to drive as well as any 1/4 impact. It can drive a 14 inch screw through a hardwood beam, so whats the point of buying an impact driver as well ?. Just buy a quality drill in the first place. As for the collet style bit holder, they sell those to fit a drill chuck and any quality chuck has locating lugs to securely centre a bit holder.
You didn't mention a critical fact - the drill has a clutch, so that you don't over-tighten or strip a screw. The driver doesn't have a clutch. Or am I wrong?
Impact drivers do not have a clutch mechanism, that's reserved for drills and hammer drills.
He said Blow Rate.
So if I use an impact driver to drill hole I don't have to pull the bit out a few times to evacuate the shavings? LOL.
Yez
Just because a bit has a hex shank doesn’t mean it was designed for use in an impact gun. I thought that part of this video was incorrect and kind of silly hahaha
As that’s not what he said so I don’t see your point. He said (after the hex statement) specifically designed for ………” back to referencing the drill it’s self. The hex shank on a drill enables one to see that’s it’s OK to use in an impact and will take the additional forces.
What’s to understand here?
Bob
England