If you've lost the key, yeah you''ll need a locksmith to get to this point of removal to install that new cylinder (or drill it out). It's for theft prevention when the vehicle was new, so GM made it hard by design.
@@Master_Yoda1990 You might check out the comment thread below from Jeff Burkholder at 6 months ago. Sometimes you can follow what he and I discussed there to dislodge the key enough to extract the damaged lock cylinder.
Thank you for the video. I am a 73 y/o 'lady' who today, thanks to your posting was able to replace a 'broken' lock cylinder on my 1998 Chevy Blazer LT. All went exactly as you detailed on removing covers and old lock cylinder. I put in the new one, but found it would only go in about two thirds of the way! Oh boy. I googled the issue and checked youtube to no avail. I did notice that the 'pocket' inside wasn't lining up with the new cylinder. I took a small tool and found I could turn the 'pocket'. After two small turns, I tried again inserting the cylinder. It fit perfectly and functioned as it should. Hooked the battery up and started my car. Fantastic. Again, thank you for sharing.
That's what an instructional video should look like. Key points clearly stated and shown, and THANK YOU for not rambling about some personal story that has ZERO to do with the subject matter.
I have a 1996 Chevy Silverado C1500 and I followed these steps and was able to switch out my ignition today. Thank you for the video, very helpful. Took me a lot longer than the video time, but I didn't have any problems.
Truck was stolen this morning, and recovered a few hours later abandoned. They damaged the ignition cylinder and so it has to be started with a screw driver. This video makes it easy! Thanks! The crooks did most of the work for me too and already took off the plastic covers.. lol!
My 96 was broken into last night and the steering is still locked but it's moving a little more freely do you know if thats only because the ignition is ruined or could it be the actual steering column
Thank You so much for this video! ❤ I have 1996 GMC Yukon. My 70 year old husband was able to R & R the ignition key cylinder easily per your instructions! All without swearing or cussing! 😂
Thank you for your detailed video, I watched another video and couldn’t get it done cuz I was having same issue of not getting the punch on the release and was cussing up a storm when my truck left me strand in Palm Springs. You are the Man! I can’t express my thanks enough that you took the time to drop knowledge on us!
Thanks for the video! It’s people like you that save the average joe some money by giving them the steps they need to do the repair themselves instead of a stealership or overpriced repair shop. Thanks again.
Thanks DrShock for posting one of the better videos on this procedure. Some have you removing the steering wheel, which I didn't really believe had to be done. Great job!👍😎 Edit: I just did this lock cylinder replacement for a friend of mine and it went so smooth that he swore that I must have done it before.Thanks for making me look like a pro!
I amsoooooo grateful for your video, my car is in need of a lot of repair; but for now I have to be able to just start it, and I can’t because of the ignition lock is stuck ! I’ll watch your instruction some more and try to figure out how to manipulate the key, cuz at this point, I can’t do that part of the process
I just replace my ignition switch wiring harness. Before I put my top cover on my steering column I took some accurate measurements and drilled a little hole that I could get a ice pick through that was right in line with the ignition switch release hole. So if I ever have to take my key Tumbler out all I have to do is put ice pick through that little hole turn my key to the run position press to release turn my key back and remove the whole Tumbler. It works out great. There is a Nother video out there that tells how to measure off the emergency flasher switch to locate where to drill the hole that aligns with the Tumbler whole
Thank You Very Much!! it was that tiny hole on TOP, this was on a 1999 S-10, everything else said the hole was on the bottom, note, don't touch or move anything, just push new cylinder in with key, and Done!
Thanks for the video! My book says to remove the steering wheel, nice to see I don't have to do that. I don't own a puller so that will save me both time and money. :)
Thank you for sharing! I was in the process of removing the air bag and steering wheel until I saw your video! Much easier way than I was advised! Already swapped out!
if the truck does not have a tilt, you can relax the two nuts that hold the column to the dash. This will give you room to pry the top piece of the column cover out
Thanks for the reply. Great video, from this video is how I found out about the plate which was the problem with my steering column. Too late though, I was already at the scrap yard looking for a steering column. I still have the old steering column and the ignition tumbler, I'll try what you said.
Yes, I have done that but for some odd reason, the new switch is engaging the security system which I do not have a keyless entry or anything about nature what to do
So our truck takes forever to get it to turn. We thought it was because we lost the original key so we had to use the spare key now, do you think my key is the problem or the ignition? How much does the ignition cost and are they universal or do I need a very specific one? Thanks in advance
The Ignition cylinders are vehicle specific, I include the GM numbers for the trucks this particular video covers in the description above. As far as having different keys behave differently I've certainly seen where an original key works smoothly and a replacement doesn't, that behavior is all on the key. But if you have two keys that both are hard to turn, then there I would more suspect the cylinder itself as the problem.
Hi I am in the situation where the key will not turn enough for me to get the punch to hit the pin for it to come out like you said but how do I get it out at that point? Does anyone have suggestions
The lock mechanism can get jammed if there's an obstruction from broken metal (like the retaining pin for the lock mechanism). You have to lube it up really well, with a lock specific lubricant, and and try to rock it back and forth to see if you can get it to free up enough to move the release pin into position. It can take some significant time and patience to work one out with that kind of problem. If you don't have the time, I would just suggest going straight to the mobile locksmith option.
The connection on these old body style (OBS) trucks ignition cylinder with the security (aka Passlock) system is the magnet built into them. When you turn the key the Passlock security module is looking to see that magnetic signal input to confirm the vehicle ignition switch is not being physically bypassed. As long as you have a genuine GM cylinder, or a top tier OEM aftermarket one, that magnet will be there. But it does need to rotate to function correctly.
Can someone explain what the wires are for above where u put ur key?... are they part of the security system at all?... I'm having trouble with mine because the person before me that I bought the truck off of had all this is a mess and it was all tapped in place with electrical tape so after removing the tap my truck won't start and I noticed those wires either weren't on my truck or they were removed and if that has anything to do with the security system in anyway I'm wondering if that has anything to do with it
The wiring layout in the column area _may_ vary across models years, or across automatic to manual trucks. Best advice would be to consult a service manual for the particular year truck and verify you have all the wire colors and connections the schematics show for the steering column area. Another option is a stop at your local pull-a-part salvage yard, like an LKQ, and visually compare an exact same model year and transmission type truck. You might even just pull the intact wiring harness and use that instead of your previous owner damaged one.
Been having codes for torque silanoid and I changed it codes are still throwing so I had the transmission shop run diagnostics. He said it was sealed up tight and it wasn't internal but he showed me one of the common symptoms is the ignition switch. Never heard anything like that. Anyone here hear of it? Appreciate your video I got hung up with the top shroud and I like your idea to use that piece as a washer after popping it out. 😉
Possibly. For this year series of GM trucks, the lock cylinder just has a magnet related to the Passlock function. The magnet works with the sensor mounted in the steering column housing itself by being detected when you actually turn the cylinder with a key. That sensor then works with the passlock module and PCM to decide whether or not to throw the security tamper mode and block fuel to the engine. Any of these components could be involved in a passlock problem. So while the lock cylinder could be involved in a passlock problem, it's not always the reason for the security light to come on. Checking for codes with a scan tool may help narrow down which part is at fault.
Well this video is about removing the ignition lock cylinder, where the key is inserted. The lock cylinder on these older model trucks do not have any electrical connections that could possibly have anything to do with such a symptom. More likely the ignition switch or even the starter motor, for that 40A fuse going. You would have to trace out the wiring and isolate which component is at fault.
I removed the Old lock cylinder because I was unable to remove the key , the key would turn forward and turn on the truck but when you turn it off it does not release the key. I purchased a new lock cylinder w new keys and same issue
Presuming here you can crank, drive, and shut off the engine. What about the accessory position? Just a guess, but I would be looking first to see if I have some misalignment or interference with the ignition switch preventing getting fully into the off position which could prevent key removal. Considering you replaced the cylinder already it's something else.
Thanks. The key is needed due to the anti-theft design. If you've lost the key, you really should call a locksmith. They will have the unique tools to remove the cylinder without the key.
What is the point of moving the key to the start position before inserting the punch if I can't turn the key at all to begin with. That is the entire reason for replacing the ignition cylinder. The key will only turn backwards to the acc switch but will not move forward at all.
You'll have to get it turning or you cannot remove it. It's a theft deterrent design. Sounds like an obstruction is blocking the turning, or the lock cylinder is coming apart internally causing interference with turning it. You might get lucky with some dry lock specific lubricant and doing the _jiggle_ _wiggle_ dance with the key.
@@DrShock Can the pin be depressed and the cylinder removed if the key is turned backwards to the acc position or does it have to be moved forward to the start position? Also one video showed that pounding a screw driver into the key hole thereby destroying the internal locking mechanism will allow one to advance the lock cylinder forward if all else fails. What would you do, that or use a drill? BTW, thanks a lot for the quick reply, it's much appreciated. 👍
No, it has to be turned in the crank position to expose the cylinder release pin. If you do not have experience doing it, I would advise against drilling it out. You can easily damage the steering column housing by going too far. If you can't wiggle/jiggle it free I'd honestly recommend having a locksmith come out. They will have the tools, and experience, to remove the cylinder for you without damaging anything else by accident.
DrShock, ever had a "Security" light issue? Re-watching this one... My '99 Suburban thinks I'm trying to steal it! Security light stays on, not the flashing security issue you can fix by relearning the key. Truck starts and immediately dies. Got a reman Passlock module that was supposed to fix it but...here I am. Gladly use the tip jag again if you have any advise.
@@DrShock TY for the reply. No codes... Just found that someone had done the diode install bypass trick in the past. So in theory, the new passlock module I put in is being bypassed; correct? I'm really perplexed on what to try next.
With no codes, and these symptoms, it's most likely a wiring harness problem. You'll need a factory service manual schematic, but what you'll want to do is go thru the checklist in the service manual checking for good fuses and proper voltages at each pin to the passlock/EVO module. Next there will be resistance checks across various pins of the harness. As I mentioned earlier this kind of fault can also happen when the VCM cannot communicate with the passlock/EVO module. You'll need to check the harness between both for any problems with the serial data line. While the ignition cylinder has a role to play, it's very unlikely to be causing what you're seeing unless it's the incorrect part or extremely shoddy asian import part (either way missing the integral magnet required for passlock to function).
@@DrShock Holy Moly... I started looking at the wiring harness and found where someone has done the "Diode" hack... Now what? Should I suspect that diode went bad/burned out? I'm going to try to reconfigure the bypass and see back in factory condition the reman Passlock works, I can always replace the diode hack if that doesn't work. Thanks for the reply. My last attempt before I call the Calvary and have it towed to a qualified shop... I don't know how much of this I can take.
Most digital multi-meters today have a diode test setting, you could check to see if it has failed. But if i were me I would remove this sort of modification and return the vehicle to the stock design. Someone may have done this to cover up a different security lamp or code problem, rather than properly diagnosing it at some point in the vehicles earlier life.
My lock cylinder won’t come out all the way. It’s jammed in the start position and I’m trying to replace it. I already have the new part I just can’t get the old cylinder out
There's been some earlier commenters with this same problem. Some of them had luck with the _lube & wiggle_ approach, as the cylinder could be stuck due to the tumbler retainer coming loose inside the bore where the cylinder assembly is inserted. Something lock safe like teflon lock spray, or silicone spray ideally.
I replaced the lock cylinder on now the vehicle won’t start, turns over but will not run, could it be related to replacing the cylinder or something else? Thanks
For the GM trucks in the year and model range of this video, if the engine cranks without the security light coming on the instrument cluster, then the lock cylinder replacement was successful and the problem is coincidental. If the security lamp is lit, then you may have something related to the repair itself.
If stripped on the head of the bolt, then you might have to switch to long nose vice grips to get it out. And of course then replace it. If stripped into the steering column, using long nose pliers to apply downward force to the ratchet wrench is what I would try.
It's at 2:15, an E5 size external star socket on a nut driver, not a screw driver. Think of these like male torx fittings, rather than the more common female ones.
@@DrShock ok but someone tried to rob our 2000 Chevrolet Suburban man but didn’t they just left and broke the key ignition lock . So I can’t put my key in it and can’t replace ignition. Any suggestions man?, I’ve been trying to take it off
2000 is going to be the new body style, so isn't going to look quite the same as this old body style column disassembly wise. But the process is basically the same with turning the key while depressing the release down the access hole in the steering housing. If what you're saying is the key was broken off inside the ignition cylinder by the would be thieves, then you're going to need to get that key fragment out first using some strong tweezers or a couple of picks. If you mean they just damaged the ignition cylinder where it won't turn/you can't insert the key - in this case you're better off calling a locksmith. They will drill out the damaged cylinder so that it can be removed and replaced.
Typically with the ignition lock it is going to be problems turning enough to start, or getting the key stuck when trying to turn to remove after. If the lock part appears working then I'd suspect either the ignition switch which is a separate part connected via harness or the starter motor itself.
I'm dealing with a similar issue on a 2004 Cadillac I was curious would be possible to just remove the Tumblers so it with the key would turn regardless? Obviously it wouldn't work without the correct included keys I'm just trying to save a little money with an old vehicle
Obviously there's no theft protection in that route. But whether the cylinder would even function like that would be a question for a locksmith, I'm not sure.
Most dealers only charge about $25 to cut a new key and set the tumblers. Make sure to call around. Every dealer is different. They just need a VIN and proof of ownership.
Hard to say over a comment forum, but I would look at the ignition switch first to insure the ignition cylinder position is being correctly reflected. You could test the switch by following the lower column disassembly in this video, then removing the plastic ignition switch cover so you can verify the correct voltage/wire in each key position.
Do you know how to tighten up the gear select by chance??? I've pulled the cylinder lock out since the key can be removed while running, but the battery goes dead if you don't turn the key off totally.
Thank you. My truck has started keeping the key in. I stop move to park, set park brake and I can not move the key all the way back to the position where the key can then be removed. Would removing and replacing as you did be the answer? Is there a RUclips on how to transfer the key components as you did so I don't have to have a new key? Any help would be appreciated.
It can be the lock cylinder as shown here, where either the tumbler spring retainer or the cylinder retainer have dislodged creating interference. It can also just be debris in the cylinder bore, particularly if the vehicle is operated in a dusty environment long term (e.g. dirt road). I would start first with just disassembly and inspection of the lock cylinder, and lubrication and reassemby if nothing is found wrong. You can transfer the tumblers to a new lock cylinder to keep the same key, if you end up having to that route. Or a lock smith can do this for a nominal fee if you bring in the old and new lock cylinders to their shop.
The range of years for these old body style trucks reflects an era before the scan tool programming of modules. So no, no scan tool is required to change out just the lock cylinder in an OBS truck. _But_ some OBS trucks _might_ throw a security lamp on the dash, particularly with non-GM parts. If so, try the simple key relearn sequence below that I also have in the video description: 1) Turn key to the on position (lamp test) only. 2) Then turn further to try to start the engine, then release the key back to the _on_ position. 3) Watch for the “security” lamp on the dash to be lit. This happens because the EVO/Passlock module and VCM didn't recognize the new lock cylinder/key combination so the VCM shuts off the fuel flow to the engine as an anti-theft action. After 10 minutes the “security” lamp will turn off. 4) Immediately then turn the key to the _off_ position, and wait another 10 seconds. No more, no less! 5) Again try to start the engine, and then again turn the key to the _on_ position. 6) Watch the “security” lamp on the dash to be lit again. After 10 minutes the “security” lamp will again will turn off. 7) Again turn the key to the _off_ position, and wait another 10 seconds. Again no more, no less! 8) Again try to start the engine for the third time, and then again turn the key back to the _on_ position. 9) Once again watch the “security” lamp on the dash (third time). After yet another 10 minutes the “security” lamp will turn off. 10) Now again turn the key to the _off_ position, and wait another 10 seconds. Again no more, no less! 11) The truck has now learned the new key/lock cylinder hardware that you swapped in. When you now try to crank then engine the fuel should flow and it will start (some might reset after just the first 10 minute dance) - presuming you followed these steps exactly. ;-)
Yeah, you can. You just have to take the ignition lock cylinder to a local locksmith who handles automotive. Ask them to _re-code_ the lock cylinder for your original key. It can also be a good idea to get a brand new key cut from your VIN so that you account for decades of wear on the old one.
Well the hardest part was getting my key to the start position seeing how I was replacing my ignition cylinder because it wouldn’t go to the start position
I'm in the same position how did you get yours to finally turn to the start position? Mine is jammed and will only turn a few millimeters each direction and the steering wheel is locked as well
Pry off the plastic piece that is exposed on the lock cylinder where you insert the key, once that piece comes off stick a small Allen wrench or screwdriver etc. underneath the locking bar at the bottom of the cylinder and lift up on the locking bar while turning key and it will move into position
This might be a situation that will require a locksmith. But you can first try compressed air with a light lubricant to dislodge the obstruction. If its smaller, then perhaps a unfolded paper clip would suffice.
That's from an obstruction in the bore where the cylinder fits in, usually the tumbler spring retainer is the cause like I mentioned in this video. But it can just be foreign debris. You'll have to get it to move to remove the cylinder, in the comments some folks have had luck _over_ lubricating this area. You can shoot a thin lubricant thru the release hole on top to get it right onto the cylinder. You don't need it where the key goes in, you need it where the cylinder turns in the steering column bore. Needs alot of patience but it can pay off. If not, call a lock smith and they'll just drill it out for you.
Definitely a Cheyenne as I special ordered it from the factory. I could only get it upgraded to the cloth/vinyl interior and bench seats at the time. Silverados could go leather, and with the center console and bucket seats option similar to LT on the Suburban and Tahoe.
My cylinder was totally locked I had key but couldn't make it turn no matter what I tried lube shaking vibration nothing until I straighten a safety pin and used it to push in that locking thing we're the springs were broken
justin brown Yes watch at minute 5 it shows the tab that should drop when the key is in . If you use a safety pin that's straighten out you can push up on that tab then push in the collar it turned when I did it just had to try it a couple of times to get it right
I have a question my 95 gmc lock cylinder is locked on ON it only turns two times and I cannot turn it on the 3rd time so. The ignition switch I had it also turn whitout a key but it just stayed on the 2nd turn, so I went to get a new ignition switch because I thought i would of fixed it but now that I installed the new ignition switch when I put the new ignition switch I couldn't removed the key because it was stuck on the 2nd turn so I had the same problem but now that I have a new ignition switch the key stays on because of the 2nd click and when I try to turn off the truck the shift indicator stays on and I have to remove my ground terminal on the battery so the battery wont die what's the problem here. When I turn the key it just clicks twice instead of 3 I need help
Let me make sure I understand what you're describing here. So you have a 95 GMC fullsize truck and the ignition cylinder would rotate without a key inserted? You replaced the ignition switch (I'm going to presume you meant the ignition lock cylinder here not the electrical switch) and now you cannot turn the key to the off position on the steering column? If that's correct, I would suspect something with the ignition cylinder housing since you replaced the lock cylinder (again presumably you meant this and not the ignition switch which is just an electrical module) and its still giving you rotational problems. The ignition lock cylunder has to be able to freely rotate within the steering columns ignition housing and if it isn't you have to identify and correct what's binding it up inside the housing.
So your 95 starts in the usual way, but with no key inserted? You sure there's not a broken off key in there? If it were me I'd replace the lock cylinder just to avoid the hassle of a random theft of an old truck. But if it's a farm truck, you might just leave it be.
@@DrShock the door key slides all the way into the ignition cylinder. I don't think there is a key broken off in it. I noticed because the door key is really loose in the ignition cyl, so one day I just turned it without and sure enough it started. I live in the city. Lol.
@@DrShock yea so I always thought the door and ignition were the same key up until a week ago. I bought the new cylinder lock for ignition, hope it works for me.!!
In order to remove the lock cylinder, you have to have the key, and you have to be able to turn it to the start position. If you don't have the key, you'll have to seek out a locksmith. If you have the key, but the lock cylinder is damaged and difficult to turn, there are some older comments where folks found success with lubricants and jiggling/wiggling with the key until it managed to move forward enough. If its really damaged and lodged in there, you may again have to go the locksmith route to have the cylinder drilled out.
Yeah you have to get these things before they get wedged / stuck in a bad way. I'd try some light lubricant spray, and patiently work with it. Be ready to depress the release in the small hole that I show in the video, you might only get one shot ;-)
There was no programming of the ignition lock cylinder back in 1995 thru 2000, which is the scope of what this video is covering. Bu you may have to perform a key relearn sequence, depending on the model year and the options on the truck. Some information on this procedure is in the video description.
If you have the key, it's worth fiddling around it it to see if you can get it to release. Some light, not greasy lubricant designed for locks and help. If you've lost the key, the only route without damaging the steering column is to call a locksmith.
Hi, my new lock cylinder (06 Suburban) won't release the new key. Also, the "push & turn backwards for accessory" seems hinky. Is there another part that I should replace to address these issues? Thanks in advance.
Sorry, RUclipsrs...my stuck key problem was "operator trouble" all along. I had the gearshift all the way down during my lock cylinder swap & that was the culprit. No replies necessary; Thanks & Jolliness.
The lock cylinder cannot be removed unless it can be turned to the removal position as shown in the video. Before resorting to the drill, or calling a locksmith, I would try some spray silicone lubricant around the cylinder (not where the key is inserted). Then I would try some jiggling with the key to attempt to get it dislodged where you can turn it. That's about all you can do.
For the years this video covers the ignition lock cylinder has a magnet type sensor embedded in the cylinder that is part of the PASSlock theft system in the steering column. There are 10 different sensor values, sometimes you get a replacement that matches and you're done. Other times you may have to do a relearn. There is no scan tool required, and no programming of the PCM required. It's just a simple key on, key off (KOKO) type of relearn. Not not all years will need this, only necessary if the security lamp comes on after replacing the lock cylinder. The replacement lock cylinder should include an instruction sheet on the procedure.
@@DrShock Wow Doctor thanks for the quick response - I have a 1996 GMC SEL pick up hopefully I won't have too much trouble. I am waiting on parts and I think I will replace the steering column shroud too! upper and lower!
This usually would mean the switch is not in the off position fully. If its even a slight bit towards run the release won't be lined up with the access hole. The switch housing could just be very worn with excessive play. I would suggest a small drop or two of light oil (e.g., 3-in-1) and wiggling and flexing slightly between acc/off/run until you can feel the release with the pick. Then you'll know where it is off and work to adjust as needed.
There's an eBay affiliate search link for this, and the other related parts, in the video description. These parts are all discontinued, but they do pop up on eBay from time to time. Another option is a trip to your local LKQ salvage yard, and pulling one yourself. I'd suggest only a 1999/2000 for the 2500/3500 series, and 1998 for the 1500 to get the _newest_ plastic you can. ;-)
Can’t turn the key something must have gotten up in there or the spring won’t engage because it’s like I’m not putting my trucks key in. Sounds like the same problem you had the first time how did you depress that pin without getting it to start position?
What I've seen is the tumbler cover / plate will dislodge on one end You can get some additional lightweight lock grade lube in there via the release access hole, and you can try fishing a solid copper wire thru that same hole of large enough gauge that you might dislodge the plate. Be sure it's thick enough that it won't break off in there while you try! Last resort is a locksmith, they would have the specialized tools to force it out.
The lock cylinder cannot be removed unless it is rotatable into this position. The steering housing casting and the lock cylinder only fit together in this rotating sequence.
@@DrShock well then we may have a bigger problem on our hands than what I had hoped. I believe the lock cylinder on our truck is bad because we are not able to turn it from the off position. If I am not able to remove it without getting it to the start position I'm not sure what the next step needs to be. Any ideas?
@@DrShock let me ask you this. Let's say a person has lost their keys and needs to remove the lock cylinder. How could you remove it if you didn't have the ignition key?
They can sometimes get bound up due to oxidation, dirt, or other debris due to damage like the tumbler spring retainer coming loose. I've seen other commenters have success with a lock lubricant and _jiggling_ and _wiggling_ to get it to finally turn.
If you've lost the keys, that's a different story though. Locksmith time really, as even these old 90s designs were pretty good at theft deterrence. The locksmith has the unique tools to make a new key to fit the lock cylinder. Worst case, they have the experience to drill it out without damaging the steering housing.
The manual transmission steering housing and lock cylinder parts shown are very similar for the years this video covers, and also in the description text. The only lock cylinder difference is that the push button thumb release on the cylinder itself is needed to turn it.
I got a 98 Chevy blazer S10 model I want to Change The Ignition cylinder But I lost the key Does anybody know How to change the Ignition cylinder without a key without a pic and without a jigger key what other ways can you replace that cylinder
Not a special tool per say, just a sharp edge tool to deform the softer metal of the cylinder into the harder metal of the plate. The GM part number for the plate, which GM calls a tumbler spring retainer, is 26047315 and it should still be available from your local Chevy dealer.
So, you’re telling me I can’t remove the lock cylinder without the key which is why I bought a lock cylinder? LL
If you've lost the key, yeah you''ll need a locksmith to get to this point of removal to install that new cylinder (or drill it out). It's for theft prevention when the vehicle was new, so GM made it hard by design.
Thank God I’ve found the key
you can just drill it out, plenty of stuff on how to do that.
My key just won’t turn anymore and my steering wheel isn’t locked.
@@Master_Yoda1990 You might check out the comment thread below from
Jeff Burkholder at 6 months ago. Sometimes you can follow what he and I discussed there to dislodge the key enough to extract the damaged lock cylinder.
Thank you for the video. I am a 73 y/o 'lady' who today, thanks to your posting was able to replace a 'broken' lock cylinder on my 1998 Chevy Blazer LT. All went exactly as you detailed on removing covers and old lock cylinder. I put in the new one, but found it would only go in about two thirds of the way! Oh boy. I googled the issue and checked youtube to no avail. I did notice that the 'pocket' inside wasn't lining up with the new cylinder. I took a small tool and found I could turn the 'pocket'. After two small turns, I tried again inserting the cylinder. It fit perfectly and functioned as it should. Hooked the battery up and started my car. Fantastic. Again, thank you for sharing.
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Thanks! Is not a lot but you saved me a good bill.
That's what an instructional video should look like. Key points clearly stated and shown, and THANK YOU for not rambling about some personal story that has ZERO to do with the subject matter.
I have a 1996 Chevy Silverado C1500 and I followed these steps and was able to switch out my ignition today. Thank you for the video, very helpful. Took me a lot longer than the video time, but I didn't have any problems.
Truck was stolen this morning, and recovered a few hours later abandoned. They damaged the ignition cylinder and so it has to be started with a screw driver. This video makes it easy! Thanks! The crooks did most of the work for me too and already took off the plastic covers.. lol!
My 96 was broken into last night and the steering is still locked but it's moving a little more freely do you know if thats only because the ignition is ruined or could it be the actual steering column
You are lucky, I can't get my damn cylinder to pull out.
The hardest part was finding an E5 Socket! Thanks for the instructions!
Thank You so much for this video! ❤ I have 1996 GMC Yukon. My 70 year old husband was able to R & R the ignition key cylinder easily per your instructions! All without swearing or cussing! 😂
Thank you for your detailed video, I watched another video and couldn’t get it done cuz I was having same issue of not getting the punch on the release and was cussing up a storm when my truck left me strand in Palm Springs. You are the Man! I can’t express my thanks enough that you took the time to drop knowledge on us!
Thanks very much, helpedme do my 97 Astro van. I couldn't get my key to turn to accessory position, followed your video, put new cylinder in, voilá!
Thanks for the video! It’s people like you that save the average joe some money by giving them the steps they need to do the repair themselves instead of a stealership or overpriced repair shop. Thanks again.
Thank you for explaining the pin assembly that allows the key dock assembly to turn in the cylinder when key is inserted.
Thanks DrShock for posting one of the better videos on this procedure. Some have you removing the steering wheel, which I didn't really believe had to be done. Great job!👍😎
Edit: I just did this lock cylinder replacement for a friend of mine and it went so smooth that he swore that I must have done it before.Thanks for making me look like a pro!
I amsoooooo grateful for your video, my car is in need of a lot of repair; but for now I have to be able to just start it, and I can’t because of the ignition lock is stuck !
I’ll watch your instruction some more and try to figure out how to manipulate the key, cuz at this point, I can’t do that part of the process
Great video. I just replaced my lock cylinder on my '98 Chevrolet w/t. Thanks
Great video. Other video I watched didn't Discuss the ring around the ignition you needed to pop out. Thank you.
Thank you without your video I would never have figured this out .My many thanks.
I just replace my ignition switch wiring harness. Before I put my top cover on my steering column I took some accurate measurements and drilled a little hole that I could get a ice pick through that was right in line with the ignition switch release hole. So if I ever have to take my key Tumbler out all I have to do is put ice pick through that little hole turn my key to the run position press to release turn my key back and remove the whole Tumbler. It works out great.
There is a Nother video out there that tells how to measure off the emergency flasher switch to locate where to drill the hole that aligns with the Tumbler whole
I have a 2000 Silverado and the key is just free turning I hope this is all I need good video btw
Thank You Very Much!! it was that tiny hole on TOP, this was on a 1999 S-10, everything else said the hole was on the bottom, note, don't touch or move anything, just push new cylinder in with key, and Done!
This vid was very helpful. If this vid wasn't here i would have gone insane trying to get that top cover off.
Great demo ,Very descriptive, mine came apart and went back together exactly as you described . Good Video!
Awesome. Thank you. A standard 4mm socket works for the e5 hardware.
Not always, a 4mm did not work for me but my screws were a little worn for some reason but most of the time a 4 should work
My problem is I can get the new one to go in or the old one to go back in. Thanks for the video it was a big help getting the ignition out!
Where you buy your at ?
Thanks for the video! My book says to remove the steering wheel, nice to see I don't have to do that. I don't own a puller so that will save me both time and money. :)
Thank you for sharing! I was in the process of removing the air bag and steering wheel until I saw your video! Much easier way than I was advised! Already swapped out!
Thank you! I was doing the same thing. I didn’t have it cranked over enough.
Thanks for making and posting this video, really helped me out.
if the truck does not have a tilt, you can relax the two nuts that hold the column to the dash. This will give you room to pry the top piece of the column cover out
Thanks a lot this helped me out a bunch for my 2003 Astro. Definitely pointed me in the right direction.
THANKS for posting this. I had my truck up and running in less than an hour 👏🏻👍🏻🙏🏻👌🏻
Very knowledgeable and professional. Easy to understand process. Thank you.
Good to know you don’t have to remove the steering wheel.
Fantastic video. Especially great lighting. Thank you very much.
At 5:35 you start talking about the plate on the bottom of the tumbler of not "staking" it: how do you "stake" it, that is what my problem is.
Thanks for the reply. Great video, from this video is how I found out about the plate which was the problem with my steering column. Too late though, I was already at the scrap yard looking for a steering column. I still have the old steering column and the ignition tumbler, I'll try what you said.
Thanks for the tip about using a 90 degree pick :)
Yes, I have done that but for some odd reason, the new switch is engaging the security system which I do not have a keyless entry or anything about nature what to do
For the old body style truck years this video applies from the video title, you might find some information in the description that helps.
Great video a lot simpler than I was told two thumbs up and I tip my hat to you kind sir
Great tutorial helped me out from start to finish 👍👍
So our truck takes forever to get it to turn. We thought it was because we lost the original key so we had to use the spare key now, do you think my key is the problem or the ignition?
How much does the ignition cost and are they universal or do I need a very specific one?
Thanks in advance
The Ignition cylinders are vehicle specific, I include the GM numbers for the trucks this particular video covers in the description above. As far as having different keys behave differently I've certainly seen where an original key works smoothly and a replacement doesn't, that behavior is all on the key. But if you have two keys that both are hard to turn, then there I would more suspect the cylinder itself as the problem.
Hi I am in the situation where the key will not turn enough for me to get the punch to hit the pin for it to come out like you said but how do I get it out at that point? Does anyone have suggestions
The lock mechanism can get jammed if there's an obstruction from broken metal (like the retaining pin for the lock mechanism). You have to lube it up really well, with a lock specific lubricant, and and try to rock it back and forth to see if you can get it to free up enough to move the release pin into position. It can take some significant time and patience to work one out with that kind of problem. If you don't have the time, I would just suggest going straight to the mobile locksmith option.
you are the boss. thanks for the lesson you saved me. thanks
Will a this give a intermediate security issue? I can take my key out of the tumbler in run position
The connection on these old body style (OBS) trucks ignition cylinder with the security (aka Passlock) system is the magnet built into them. When you turn the key the Passlock security module is looking to see that magnetic signal input to confirm the vehicle ignition switch is not being physically bypassed. As long as you have a genuine GM cylinder, or a top tier OEM aftermarket one, that magnet will be there. But it does need to rotate to function correctly.
I know this video was made 5 years ago. But i hvae a question do u have to have the key to remove the key switch
Yes, the key is needed to rotate the lock cylinder into the position where you can depress the release button and remove it.
So you don’t have to remove the white square connector ontop if the cylinder ?
For the years and model of this video only, just what I've shown is all that is needed.
Can someone explain what the wires are for above where u put ur key?... are they part of the security system at all?... I'm having trouble with mine because the person before me that I bought the truck off of had all this is a mess and it was all tapped in place with electrical tape so after removing the tap my truck won't start and I noticed those wires either weren't on my truck or they were removed and if that has anything to do with the security system in anyway I'm wondering if that has anything to do with it
The wiring layout in the column area _may_ vary across models years, or across automatic to manual trucks. Best advice would be to consult a service manual for the particular year truck and verify you have all the wire colors and connections the schematics show for the steering column area.
Another option is a stop at your local pull-a-part salvage yard, like an LKQ, and visually compare an exact same model year and transmission type truck. You might even just pull the intact wiring harness and use that instead of your previous owner damaged one.
What do you do if you cannot turn the ignition to the start position? It’s locked up.
Been having codes for torque silanoid and I changed it codes are still throwing so I had the transmission shop run diagnostics. He said it was sealed up tight and it wasn't internal but he showed me one of the common symptoms is the ignition switch. Never heard anything like that. Anyone here hear of it?
Appreciate your video I got hung up with the top shroud and I like your idea to use that piece as a washer after popping it out. 😉
Now this methodology would it fix issues with passlock where is will start sometimes and other there is the security lockout
Possibly. For this year series of GM trucks, the lock cylinder just has a magnet related to the Passlock function. The magnet works with the sensor mounted in the steering column housing itself by being detected when you actually turn the cylinder with a key. That sensor then works with the passlock module and PCM to decide whether or not to throw the security tamper mode and block fuel to the engine. Any of these components could be involved in a passlock problem. So while the lock cylinder could be involved in a passlock problem, it's not always the reason for the security light to come on. Checking for codes with a scan tool may help narrow down which part is at fault.
This is the video I was looking for!. So much thanks from CHILE.
Could that part cause the 40 amp fuse to blow? / was told to oil it know dosen't work??
Well this video is about removing the ignition lock cylinder, where the key is inserted. The lock cylinder on these older model trucks do not have any electrical connections that could possibly have anything to do with such a symptom. More likely the ignition switch or even the starter motor, for that 40A fuse going. You would have to trace out the wiring and isolate which component is at fault.
I removed the Old lock cylinder because I was unable to remove the key , the key would turn forward and turn on the truck but when you turn it off it does not release the key. I purchased a new lock cylinder w new keys and same issue
Presuming here you can crank, drive, and shut off the engine. What about the accessory position? Just a guess, but I would be looking first to see if I have some misalignment or interference with the ignition switch preventing getting fully into the off position which could prevent key removal. Considering you replaced the cylinder already it's something else.
Great video and thanks but how do you do this if you have lost the original key???
Thanks. The key is needed due to the anti-theft design. If you've lost the key, you really should call a locksmith. They will have the unique tools to remove the cylinder without the key.
@@DrShock Thanks buddy!
What is the point of moving the key to the start position before inserting the punch if I can't turn the key at all to begin with. That is the entire reason for replacing the ignition cylinder. The key will only turn backwards to the acc switch but will not move forward at all.
You'll have to get it turning or you cannot remove it. It's a theft deterrent design. Sounds like an obstruction is blocking the turning, or the lock cylinder is coming apart internally causing interference with turning it. You might get lucky with some dry lock specific lubricant and doing the _jiggle_ _wiggle_ dance with the key.
@@DrShock Can the pin be depressed and the cylinder removed if the key is turned backwards to the acc position or does it have to be moved forward to the start position? Also one video showed that pounding a screw driver into the key hole thereby destroying the internal locking mechanism will allow one to advance the lock cylinder forward if all else fails. What would you do, that or use a drill? BTW, thanks a lot for the quick reply, it's much appreciated. 👍
No, it has to be turned in the crank position to expose the cylinder release pin. If you do not have experience doing it, I would advise against drilling it out. You can easily damage the steering column housing by going too far. If you can't wiggle/jiggle it free I'd honestly recommend having a locksmith come out. They will have the tools, and experience, to remove the cylinder for you without damaging anything else by accident.
@@DrShock Ok will do. Thank you.
DrShock, ever had a "Security" light issue? Re-watching this one... My '99 Suburban thinks I'm trying to steal it! Security light stays on, not the flashing security issue you can fix by relearning the key. Truck starts and immediately dies. Got a reman Passlock module that was supposed to fix it but...here I am. Gladly use the tip jag again if you have any advise.
What are the codes pulled by the scan tool, if any? This can be caused by a lack of communication between the VCM and the Passlock/EVO module.
@@DrShock TY for the reply. No codes... Just found that someone had done the diode install bypass trick in the past. So in theory, the new passlock module I put in is being bypassed; correct? I'm really perplexed on what to try next.
With no codes, and these symptoms, it's most likely a wiring harness problem. You'll need a factory service manual schematic, but what you'll want to do is go thru the checklist in the service manual checking for good fuses and proper voltages at each pin to the passlock/EVO module. Next there will be resistance checks across various pins of the harness. As I mentioned earlier this kind of fault can also happen when the VCM cannot communicate with the passlock/EVO module. You'll need to check the harness between both for any problems with the serial data line. While the ignition cylinder has a role to play, it's very unlikely to be causing what you're seeing unless it's the incorrect part or extremely shoddy asian import part (either way missing the integral magnet required for passlock to function).
@@DrShock Holy Moly... I started looking at the wiring harness and found where someone has done the "Diode" hack... Now what? Should I suspect that diode went bad/burned out? I'm going to try to reconfigure the bypass and see back in factory condition the reman Passlock works, I can always replace the diode hack if that doesn't work. Thanks for the reply. My last attempt before I call the Calvary and have it towed to a qualified shop... I don't know how much of this I can take.
Most digital multi-meters today have a diode test setting, you could check to see if it has failed. But if i were me I would remove this sort of modification and return the vehicle to the stock design. Someone may have done this to cover up a different security lamp or code problem, rather than properly diagnosing it at some point in the vehicles earlier life.
Awesome. I had to drill mine out as I lost my only key.
My lock cylinder won’t come out all the way. It’s jammed in the start position and I’m trying to replace it. I already have the new part I just can’t get the old cylinder out
There's been some earlier commenters with this same problem. Some of them had luck with the _lube & wiggle_ approach, as the cylinder could be stuck due to the tumbler retainer coming loose inside the bore where the cylinder assembly is inserted. Something lock safe like teflon lock spray, or silicone spray ideally.
So how do I remove the cylinder housing we're the the ignition cylinder for the key goes
I replaced the lock cylinder on now the vehicle won’t start, turns over but will not run, could it be related to replacing the cylinder or something else? Thanks
For the GM trucks in the year and model range of this video, if the engine cranks without the security light coming on the instrument cluster, then the lock cylinder replacement was successful and the problem is coincidental. If the security lamp is lit, then you may have something related to the repair itself.
Thanks for the reply and the video, no security lights so I think it is something else, it is getting spark so I’m going to check the fuel next
Quick update, it was getting fuel also, I replaced the lock cylinder and it started
Thanks much easier than the 89 I had
I’m having trouble removing the bolt next to the ignition switch. Seems stripped. Any suggestions
If stripped on the head of the bolt, then you might have to switch to long nose vice grips to get it out. And of course then replace it. If stripped into the steering column, using long nose pliers to apply downward force to the ratchet wrench is what I would try.
Thanks indeed a big help, can I buy a new cylinder that comes with a key? or do I have to swap out the tumblers
Bo toepfer when you buy the new cylinder it comes with two new keys
Hi what screwdriver did you use to take out this 2:12 ?
It's at 2:15, an E5 size external star socket on a nut driver, not a screw driver. Think of these like male torx fittings, rather than the more common female ones.
@@DrShock ok but someone tried to rob our 2000 Chevrolet Suburban man but didn’t they just left and broke the key ignition lock . So I can’t put my key in it and can’t replace ignition. Any suggestions man?, I’ve been trying to take it off
2000 is going to be the new body style, so isn't going to look quite the same as this old body style column disassembly wise. But the process is basically the same with turning the key while depressing the release down the access hole in the steering housing.
If what you're saying is the key was broken off inside the ignition cylinder by the would be thieves, then you're going to need to get that key fragment out first using some strong tweezers or a couple of picks. If you mean they just damaged the ignition cylinder where it won't turn/you can't insert the key - in this case you're better off calling a locksmith. They will drill out the damaged cylinder so that it can be removed and replaced.
will this being bad cause the starter to click and not start? mine does this and i have to rapidly crank it and it will start time to time thank you!
Typically with the ignition lock it is going to be problems turning enough to start, or getting the key stuck when trying to turn to remove after. If the lock part appears working then I'd suspect either the ignition switch which is a separate part connected via harness or the starter motor itself.
I'm dealing with a similar issue on a 2004 Cadillac I was curious would be possible to just remove the Tumblers so it with the key would turn regardless? Obviously it wouldn't work without the correct included keys I'm just trying to save a little money with an old vehicle
Obviously there's no theft protection in that route. But whether the cylinder would even function like that would be a question for a locksmith, I'm not sure.
Most dealers only charge about $25 to cut a new key and set the tumblers. Make sure to call around. Every dealer is different. They just need a VIN and proof of ownership.
What could be the problem when you buy a key cylinder and your vehicle turns off but my battery light is still on and drains my battery
Hard to say over a comment forum, but I would look at the ignition switch first to insure the ignition cylinder position is being correctly reflected. You could test the switch by following the lower column disassembly in this video, then removing the plastic ignition switch cover so you can verify the correct voltage/wire in each key position.
How do you change a ignition switch if you don't have a key
Locksmith.
Do you know how to tighten up the gear select by chance??? I've pulled the cylinder lock out since the key can be removed while running, but the battery goes dead if you don't turn the key off totally.
The adjustment on the shift lever cable, like here ruclips.net/video/Obv-lwGu6g4/видео.html , is what initially comes to mind.
Fantastic video. THANK YOU!
Thank you. My truck has started keeping the key in. I stop move to park, set park brake and I can not move the key all the way back to the position where the key can then be removed. Would removing and replacing as you did be the answer? Is there a RUclips on how to transfer the key components as you did so I don't have to have a new key? Any help would be appreciated.
It can be the lock cylinder as shown here, where either the tumbler spring retainer or the cylinder retainer have dislodged creating interference. It can also just be debris in the cylinder bore, particularly if the vehicle is operated in a dusty environment long term (e.g. dirt road). I would start first with just disassembly and inspection of the lock cylinder, and lubrication and reassemby if nothing is found wrong. You can transfer the tumblers to a new lock cylinder to keep the same key, if you end up having to that route. Or a lock smith can do this for a nominal fee if you bring in the old and new lock cylinders to their shop.
@@DrShock Thanks! I will try that and let you know. I really appreciate the help!
So there is no programming of the new key or cylinder?
The range of years for these old body style trucks reflects an era before the scan tool programming of modules. So no, no scan tool is required to change out just the lock cylinder in an OBS truck. _But_ some OBS trucks _might_ throw a security lamp on the dash, particularly with non-GM parts. If so, try the simple key relearn sequence below that I also have in the video description:
1) Turn key to the on position (lamp test) only.
2) Then turn further to try to start the engine, then release the key back to the _on_ position.
3) Watch for the “security” lamp on the dash to be lit. This happens because the EVO/Passlock module and VCM didn't recognize the new lock cylinder/key combination so the VCM shuts off the fuel flow to the engine as an anti-theft action. After 10 minutes the “security” lamp will turn off.
4) Immediately then turn the key to the _off_ position, and wait another 10 seconds. No more, no less!
5) Again try to start the engine, and then again turn the key to the _on_ position.
6) Watch the “security” lamp on the dash to be lit again. After 10 minutes the “security” lamp will again will turn off.
7) Again turn the key to the _off_ position, and wait another 10 seconds. Again no more, no less!
8) Again try to start the engine for the third time, and then again turn the key back to the _on_ position.
9) Once again watch the “security” lamp on the dash (third time). After yet another 10 minutes the “security” lamp will turn off.
10) Now again turn the key to the _off_ position, and wait another 10 seconds. Again no more, no less!
11) The truck has now learned the new key/lock cylinder hardware that you swapped in. When you now try to crank then engine the fuel should flow and it will start (some might reset after just the first 10 minute dance) - presuming you followed these steps exactly. ;-)
Could anyone please clarify if I can and how I can keep the old key for the new ignition lock cylinder so I don’t have to carry two different keys?
Yeah, you can. You just have to take the ignition lock cylinder to a local locksmith who handles automotive. Ask them to _re-code_ the lock cylinder for your original key. It can also be a good idea to get a brand new key cut from your VIN so that you account for decades of wear on the old one.
Well the hardest part was getting my key to the start position seeing how I was replacing my ignition cylinder because it wouldn’t go to the start position
I'm in the same position how did you get yours to finally turn to the start position? Mine is jammed and will only turn a few millimeters each direction and the steering wheel is locked as well
I’m in the same boat.
Pry off the plastic piece that is exposed on the lock cylinder where you insert the key, once that piece comes off stick a small Allen wrench or screwdriver etc. underneath the locking bar at the bottom of the cylinder and lift up on the locking bar while turning key and it will move into position
So I can’t turn my Tumblr to the start position because I can’t put my key in the ignition hole because there is debris stuck in it what do I do
Please help
This might be a situation that will require a locksmith. But you can first try compressed air with a light lubricant to dislodge the obstruction. If its smaller, then perhaps a unfolded paper clip would suffice.
Lost my key but bought a new key cylinder, what do I do?
E 5 aka 4mm had to use what's on hand
What if my key won't go to the start position so I can press the pin out??
That's from an obstruction in the bore where the cylinder fits in, usually the tumbler spring retainer is the cause like I mentioned in this video. But it can just be foreign debris. You'll have to get it to move to remove the cylinder, in the comments some folks have had luck _over_ lubricating this area. You can shoot a thin lubricant thru the release hole on top to get it right onto the cylinder. You don't need it where the key goes in, you need it where the cylinder turns in the steering column bore. Needs alot of patience but it can pay off. If not, call a lock smith and they'll just drill it out for you.
He said this was a Cheyenne, but the interior is identical to my Silverado K1500. Are Cheyennes and Silverados that similar?
Definitely a Cheyenne as I special ordered it from the factory. I could only get it upgraded to the cloth/vinyl interior and bench seats at the time. Silverados could go leather, and with the center console and bucket seats option similar to LT on the Suburban and Tahoe.
DrShock ok, I never seen the inside of a Cheyenne.
My cylinder was totally locked I had key but couldn't make it turn no matter what I tried lube shaking vibration nothing until I straighten a safety pin and used it to push in that locking thing we're the springs were broken
did you solve this issue
did you solve this issue
justin brown
Yes watch at minute 5 it shows the tab that should drop when the key is in . If you use a safety pin that's straighten out you can push up on that tab then push in the collar it turned when I did it just had to try it a couple of times to get it right
I have a question my 95 gmc lock cylinder is locked on ON it only turns two times and I cannot turn it on the 3rd time so. The ignition switch I had it also turn whitout a key but it just stayed on the 2nd turn, so I went to get a new ignition switch because I thought i would of fixed it but now that I installed the new ignition switch when I put the new ignition switch I couldn't removed the key because it was stuck on the 2nd turn so I had the same problem but now that I have a new ignition switch the key stays on because of the 2nd click and when I try to turn off the truck the shift indicator stays on and I have to remove my ground terminal on the battery so the battery wont die what's the problem here.
When I turn the key it just clicks twice instead of 3 I need help
Let me make sure I understand what you're describing here. So you have a 95 GMC fullsize truck and the ignition cylinder would rotate without a key inserted? You replaced the ignition switch (I'm going to presume you meant the ignition lock cylinder here not the electrical switch) and now you cannot turn the key to the off position on the steering column? If that's correct, I would suspect something with the ignition cylinder housing since you replaced the lock cylinder (again presumably you meant this and not the ignition switch which is just an electrical module) and its still giving you rotational problems. The ignition lock cylunder has to be able to freely rotate within the steering columns ignition housing and if it isn't you have to identify and correct what's binding it up inside the housing.
I have a new used Cheyenne 95. It turns on with no key required. Do I replace the cylinder or just leave as is because it works fine already...
So your 95 starts in the usual way, but with no key inserted? You sure there's not a broken off key in there? If it were me I'd replace the lock cylinder just to avoid the hassle of a random theft of an old truck. But if it's a farm truck, you might just leave it be.
@@DrShock the door key slides all the way into the ignition cylinder. I don't think there is a key broken off in it. I noticed because the door key is really loose in the ignition cyl, so one day I just turned it without and sure enough it started. I live in the city. Lol.
Wow, very unusual. I wouldn't have expected the tumblers to fail in the unlocked and free to start position there. ;-)
@@DrShock yea so I always thought the door and ignition were the same key up until a week ago. I bought the new cylinder lock for ignition, hope it works for me.!!
3:09
What if i dont have my key?
Time to call a locksmith if that's the case.
thank you sir, very helpful I was about to call tow truck
If the key is locked already how do u get the cylinder out since u can't turn it into the start position?
In order to remove the lock cylinder, you have to have the key, and you have to be able to turn it to the start position. If you don't have the key, you'll have to seek out a locksmith. If you have the key, but the lock cylinder is damaged and difficult to turn, there are some older comments where folks found success with lubricants and jiggling/wiggling with the key until it managed to move forward enough. If its really damaged and lodged in there, you may again have to go the locksmith route to have the cylinder drilled out.
Ok thank u i have the key and u used to be able to wiggle it and its stuck prerry hard tho
Yeah you have to get these things before they get wedged / stuck in a bad way. I'd try some light lubricant spray, and patiently work with it. Be ready to depress the release in the small hole that I show in the video, you might only get one shot ;-)
Do You Have To Get Your New Switch Reprogrammed?
There was no programming of the ignition lock cylinder back in 1995 thru 2000, which is the scope of what this video is covering. Bu you may have to perform a key relearn sequence, depending on the model year and the options on the truck. Some information on this procedure is in the video description.
So if I can't turn it to start position how will I get it out?
If you have the key, it's worth fiddling around it it to see if you can get it to release. Some light, not greasy lubricant designed for locks and help. If you've lost the key, the only route without damaging the steering column is to call a locksmith.
Hi, my new lock cylinder (06 Suburban) won't release the new key. Also, the "push & turn backwards for accessory" seems hinky. Is there another part that I should replace to address these issues? Thanks in advance.
Sorry, RUclipsrs...my stuck key problem was "operator trouble" all along. I had the gearshift all the way down during my lock cylinder swap & that was the culprit. No replies necessary; Thanks & Jolliness.
Thank you sir for this guide... my key and barrel are worn to a point where a screwdriver can start the truck :) new new new
I cant turn my key at all😡
Any suggestion to get it off without drilling.
The lock cylinder cannot be removed unless it can be turned to the removal position as shown in the video. Before resorting to the drill, or calling a locksmith, I would try some spray silicone lubricant around the cylinder (not where the key is inserted). Then I would try some jiggling with the key to attempt to get it dislodged where you can turn it. That's about all you can do.
if I buy a Lock cyl Set will I need to program the new set to match the computer settings?
For the years this video covers the ignition lock cylinder has a magnet type sensor embedded in the cylinder that is part of the PASSlock theft system in the steering column. There are 10 different sensor values, sometimes you get a replacement that matches and you're done. Other times you may have to do a relearn. There is no scan tool required, and no programming of the PCM required. It's just a simple key on, key off (KOKO) type of relearn.
Not not all years will need this, only necessary if the security lamp comes on after replacing the lock cylinder. The replacement lock cylinder should include an instruction sheet on the procedure.
@@DrShock Wow Doctor thanks for the quick response - I have a 1996 GMC SEL pick up hopefully I won't have too much trouble. I am waiting on parts and I think I will replace the steering column shroud too! upper and lower!
I’ve been trying to get my ignition out for about 20 minutes I put the pick in the hole and it won’t go down
This usually would mean the switch is not in the off position fully. If its even a slight bit towards run the release won't be lined up with the access hole. The switch housing could just be very worn with excessive play. I would suggest a small drop or two of light oil (e.g., 3-in-1) and wiggling and flexing slightly between acc/off/run until you can feel the release with the pick. Then you'll know where it is off and work to adjust as needed.
Does anyone know where you can find GM 26036499 cover? It seems like it is no longer available and it the part that breaks easily...
There's an eBay affiliate search link for this, and the other related parts, in the video description. These parts are all discontinued, but they do pop up on eBay from time to time. Another option is a trip to your local LKQ salvage yard, and pulling one yourself. I'd suggest only a 1999/2000 for the 2500/3500 series, and 1998 for the 1500 to get the _newest_ plastic you can. ;-)
What if i dont have the key? is there any way to remove the cylinder without the key?
Did you fix the problem I'm in the same situation any help would be good
Can’t turn the key something must have gotten up in there or the spring won’t engage because it’s like I’m not putting my trucks key in. Sounds like the same problem you had the first time how did you depress that pin without getting it to start position?
What I've seen is the tumbler cover / plate will dislodge on one end You can get some additional lightweight lock grade lube in there via the release access hole, and you can try fishing a solid copper wire thru that same hole of large enough gauge that you might dislodge the plate. Be sure it's thick enough that it won't break off in there while you try! Last resort is a locksmith, they would have the specialized tools to force it out.
What if I'm not able to turn the lock cylinder to the start position?
The lock cylinder cannot be removed unless it is rotatable into this position. The steering housing casting and the lock cylinder only fit together in this rotating sequence.
@@DrShock well then we may have a bigger problem on our hands than what I had hoped. I believe the lock cylinder on our truck is bad because we are not able to turn it from the off position. If I am not able to remove it without getting it to the start position I'm not sure what the next step needs to be. Any ideas?
@@DrShock let me ask you this. Let's say a person has lost their keys and needs to remove the lock cylinder. How could you remove it if you didn't have the ignition key?
They can sometimes get bound up due to oxidation, dirt, or other debris due to damage like the tumbler spring retainer coming loose. I've seen other commenters have success with a lock lubricant and _jiggling_ and _wiggling_ to get it to finally turn.
If you've lost the keys, that's a different story though. Locksmith time really, as even these old 90s designs were pretty good at theft deterrence. The locksmith has the unique tools to make a new key to fit the lock cylinder. Worst case, they have the experience to drill it out without damaging the steering housing.
My key burnt up in a house fire I have a 98 Chevy Silverado that has no keys for it and I'm trying to change it how easy will be to do so
If you have no keys, you gotta call a locksmith who will have the specialized tools necessary. Not a DIY repair with no keys.
How do you do that with a stick shift??
The manual transmission steering housing and lock cylinder parts shown are very similar for the years this video covers, and also in the description text. The only lock cylinder difference is that the push button thumb release on the cylinder itself is needed to turn it.
Thanks man this video really helped
I got a 98 Chevy blazer S10 model I want to Change The Ignition cylinder But I lost the key Does anybody know How to change the Ignition cylinder without a key without a pic and without a jigger key what other ways can you replace that cylinder
Without the key your best bet is a locksmith. Other than that route it would take hardcore drilling the cylinder out.
Any idea where one could purchase that plate that holds the tumbler springs in place? And is there a special tool to stake it in place?
Not a special tool per say, just a sharp edge tool to deform the softer metal of the cylinder into the harder metal of the plate. The GM part number for the plate, which GM calls a tumbler spring retainer, is 26047315 and it should still be available from your local Chevy dealer.