1995 - 2000 OBS GM Truck Ignition Lock Cylinder Removal (Chevy Cadillac & GMC)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 3 авг 2024
- How to remove the ignition lock cylinder from the steering column of 1995 96 97 98 99 and some 2000 carry over model GM C/K old body style (OBS) trucks (Chevy & GMC & Holden) full size Suburban Tahoe Yukon Silverado Cheyenne Sierra W/T Escalade. The vehicle shown in the video is a 1998 Chevy Cheyenne K2500 pickup truck with automatic transmission (same procedure for all GMT400 style models/years without airbag but the plastic cowling and lock cylinder parts are different for manual transmission models).
Notes:
You will need access to the vehicles key and be able to turn the lock to the start position for this particular shop procedure!
Sometimes the vehicles Passlock security mode will get triggered with an new ignition lock cylinder. The Security lamp on the instrument cluster will illuminate. This procedure will force a re-learn of the new hardware after you have left it sitting for at least 10 minutes with the key off and out of the lock cylinder:
1) Turn the ignition key to the on position (cluster lamp test) only.
2) Then turn the key further to try to start the engine, then release the key back to the on position again.
3) Watch for the “security” lamp on the dash to be lit. This happens because the EVO/Passlock module and VCM didn't recognize the new lock cylinder/key combination so the VCM shuts off the fuel flow to the engine as an anti-theft action. After 10 minutes the “security” lamp will turn off.
4) Immediately then turn the key to the off position, and wait another 10 seconds (first dance). No more, no less!
5) Again try to start the engine, and then again turn the key to the on position.
6) Watch the “security” lamp on the dash to be lit again. After 10 minutes the “security” lamp will again will turn off.
7) Again turn the key to the off position, and wait another 10 seconds (second dance). Again no more, no less!
8) Again immediately try to start the engine for the third time, and then again turn the key back to the on position.
9) Once again watch the “security” lamp on the dash. After yet another 10 minutes the “security” lamp will turn off.
10) Now again immediately turn the key to the off position, and wait another 10 seconds (third and final dance). Again no more, no less!
11) The truck has now, FINALLY, learned the new key/lock cylinder hardware that you swapped in after doing this dance three times (30 1/2 minutes of your time). When you now try to crank then engine for this fourth time the fuel should flow should be allowed, and it will start. Some trucks will reset after just one dance! ;-)
The eBay and Amazon search links below are paid links, for which I may be compensated and earn a commission, if you choose to buy the parts and tools shown in this video thru them:
If you need to replace the GM cylinder the current number is GM 26049532 (automatics) or 26049533 (manuals) and the earlier superseded numbers (automatics only) are 12377148 and 26055630: ebay.us/ZaD62d or amzn.to/3on9BAp
And for manual transmissions: ebay.us/np11wJ
You may also find it as ACDelco D1487D (same GM part for automatics): ebay.us/sbqodt or amzn.to/3mLr5pK
And ACDelco D1488D for manual transmissions: ebay.us/ABAJiT or amzn.to/3g7QFTA
If you need a replacement key GM 12547778 is the key blank part: ebay.us/buIoJ6 or amzn.to/39HFdg1
The plastic shroud / housing / cowling around the steering column can be brittle with age and break, if you need replacements the top half is GM 26036499 (automatics) or 26038797 (manuals) , the bottom half for tilt wheel and automatic is GM 26036498 and for non-tilt and automatic the bottom half is GM 26036875. For all manuals the bottom is 26036876. Same for both Chevy & GMC & Holden: ebay.us/AJjg2w
And if I've saved you some $$ here, consider some coins for the coffee tip-jar! ko-fi.com/drshock
Chapters:
0:00 - Problem overview
0:15 - Remove lower steering column trim
1:17 - Remove upper steering column trim
3:32 - Disconnect battery
3:47 - Remove key from cylinder
4:40 - Reinsert key into cylinder
4:43 - Remove lock cylinder
4:45 - Diagnosis and tips
#drshock
Disclaimer: DrShock, the alias for the human content creator for this RUclips channel, is not responsible for any damages, injuries, losses, or liabilities associated with any repairs, upgrades, or maintenance performed on yours, or any other, vehicle whatsoever. No warranty, express or implied, is made as to the accuracy or completeness of any information provided within this channel. Viewing and using the “as-is" information of this channel is totally at your own risk. Always wear personal protection equipment and follow appropriate vehicle manufacturer service manual guidelines with original manufacturer parts only when performing any repairs, upgrades, or maintenance upon any vehicle. 
Авто/Мото
So, you’re telling me I can’t remove the lock cylinder without the key which is why I bought a lock cylinder? LL
If you've lost the key, yeah you''ll need a locksmith to get to this point of removal to install that new cylinder (or drill it out). It's for theft prevention when the vehicle was new, so GM made it hard by design.
Thank God I’ve found the key
you can just drill it out, plenty of stuff on how to do that.
My key just won’t turn anymore and my steering wheel isn’t locked.
@@Master_Yoda1990 You might check out the comment thread below from
Jeff Burkholder at 6 months ago. Sometimes you can follow what he and I discussed there to dislodge the key enough to extract the damaged lock cylinder.
Thank you for the video. I am a 73 y/o 'lady' who today, thanks to your posting was able to replace a 'broken' lock cylinder on my 1998 Chevy Blazer LT. All went exactly as you detailed on removing covers and old lock cylinder. I put in the new one, but found it would only go in about two thirds of the way! Oh boy. I googled the issue and checked youtube to no avail. I did notice that the 'pocket' inside wasn't lining up with the new cylinder. I took a small tool and found I could turn the 'pocket'. After two small turns, I tried again inserting the cylinder. It fit perfectly and functioned as it should. Hooked the battery up and started my car. Fantastic. Again, thank you for sharing.
0
The hardest part was finding an E5 Socket! Thanks for the instructions!
Thank You so much for this video! ❤ I have 1996 GMC Yukon. My 70 year old husband was able to R & R the ignition key cylinder easily per your instructions! All without swearing or cussing! 😂
That's what an instructional video should look like. Key points clearly stated and shown, and THANK YOU for not rambling about some personal story that has ZERO to do with the subject matter.
I have a 1996 Chevy Silverado C1500 and I followed these steps and was able to switch out my ignition today. Thank you for the video, very helpful. Took me a lot longer than the video time, but I didn't have any problems.
Truck was stolen this morning, and recovered a few hours later abandoned. They damaged the ignition cylinder and so it has to be started with a screw driver. This video makes it easy! Thanks! The crooks did most of the work for me too and already took off the plastic covers.. lol!
My 96 was broken into last night and the steering is still locked but it's moving a little more freely do you know if thats only because the ignition is ruined or could it be the actual steering column
You are lucky, I can't get my damn cylinder to pull out.
Thanks for the video! It’s people like you that save the average joe some money by giving them the steps they need to do the repair themselves instead of a stealership or overpriced repair shop. Thanks again.
Thank you for your detailed video, I watched another video and couldn’t get it done cuz I was having same issue of not getting the punch on the release and was cussing up a storm when my truck left me strand in Palm Springs. You are the Man! I can’t express my thanks enough that you took the time to drop knowledge on us!
Thanks very much, helpedme do my 97 Astro van. I couldn't get my key to turn to accessory position, followed your video, put new cylinder in, voilá!
Thank you for explaining the pin assembly that allows the key dock assembly to turn in the cylinder when key is inserted.
I just replace my ignition switch wiring harness. Before I put my top cover on my steering column I took some accurate measurements and drilled a little hole that I could get a ice pick through that was right in line with the ignition switch release hole. So if I ever have to take my key Tumbler out all I have to do is put ice pick through that little hole turn my key to the run position press to release turn my key back and remove the whole Tumbler. It works out great.
There is a Nother video out there that tells how to measure off the emergency flasher switch to locate where to drill the hole that aligns with the Tumbler whole
Great demo ,Very descriptive, mine came apart and went back together exactly as you described . Good Video!
Thank you without your video I would never have figured this out .My many thanks.
Very knowledgeable and professional. Easy to understand process. Thank you.
Thanks! Is not a lot but you saved me a good bill.
I amsoooooo grateful for your video, my car is in need of a lot of repair; but for now I have to be able to just start it, and I can’t because of the ignition lock is stuck !
I’ll watch your instruction some more and try to figure out how to manipulate the key, cuz at this point, I can’t do that part of the process
Thank you for sharing! I was in the process of removing the air bag and steering wheel until I saw your video! Much easier way than I was advised! Already swapped out!
Thanks for the video! My book says to remove the steering wheel, nice to see I don't have to do that. I don't own a puller so that will save me both time and money. :)
This vid was very helpful. If this vid wasn't here i would have gone insane trying to get that top cover off.
Thank You Very Much!! it was that tiny hole on TOP, this was on a 1999 S-10, everything else said the hole was on the bottom, note, don't touch or move anything, just push new cylinder in with key, and Done!
THANKS for posting this. I had my truck up and running in less than an hour 👏🏻👍🏻🙏🏻👌🏻
Thanks a lot this helped me out a bunch for my 2003 Astro. Definitely pointed me in the right direction.
Great video. I just replaced my lock cylinder on my '98 Chevrolet w/t. Thanks
Fantastic video. Especially great lighting. Thank you very much.
Great tutorial helped me out from start to finish 👍👍
I have a 2000 Silverado and the key is just free turning I hope this is all I need good video btw
Thanks for the tip about using a 90 degree pick :)
Thanks much easier than the 89 I had
Thank you so much for your video it really helped replace mine out !
Great video a lot simpler than I was told two thumbs up and I tip my hat to you kind sir
Thank you sir for this guide... my key and barrel are worn to a point where a screwdriver can start the truck :) new new new
Thank you! I was doing the same thing. I didn’t have it cranked over enough.
Awesome. Thank you. A standard 4mm socket works for the e5 hardware.
Not always, a 4mm did not work for me but my screws were a little worn for some reason but most of the time a 4 should work
My problem is I can get the new one to go in or the old one to go back in. Thanks for the video it was a big help getting the ignition out!
Where you buy your at ?
This is the video I was looking for!. So much thanks from CHILE.
Very Helpful Video.
Thank you!
Fantastic video. THANK YOU!
Hi, I did it on my 98 Chevy truck, that was so easy with your video. Thank you so much. Keep up the great work
Did u have to get the new key programed
@@mra1336 Should be no key reprogramming needed when just replacing the lock cylinder with these old body style trucks from the 90s as shown in the vid. All the lock cylinder on these trucks contributes to the Passlock theft system is a rotating magnet for when the key turns it.
So long story short car was broken in to put the new cylinder in so it has complete new keys old key jus goes in wont turn new key that came wit cylinder turns car on for 2 secs then dies
@@mra1336 What year and model is the truck?
98 chevy tahoe n i just wana say thank u for taking time out ur day
Awesome. I had to drill mine out as I lost my only key.
you are the boss. thanks for the lesson you saved me. thanks
Good to know you don’t have to remove the steering wheel.
Thanks for making and posting this video, really helped me out.
Been having codes for torque silanoid and I changed it codes are still throwing so I had the transmission shop run diagnostics. He said it was sealed up tight and it wasn't internal but he showed me one of the common symptoms is the ignition switch. Never heard anything like that. Anyone here hear of it?
Appreciate your video I got hung up with the top shroud and I like your idea to use that piece as a washer after popping it out. 😉
Excellent. Thank you!
Thanks man this video really helped
thank you sir, very helpful I was about to call tow truck
Thanks for the video. Very helpful.
Outstanding!
if the truck does not have a tilt, you can relax the two nuts that hold the column to the dash. This will give you room to pry the top piece of the column cover out
Thanks it helped me alot thank you
Great video
Thanks indeed a big help, can I buy a new cylinder that comes with a key? or do I have to swap out the tumblers
Bo toepfer when you buy the new cylinder it comes with two new keys
You are awesome, thanks.
Thank you for this video. It's really helped me. Thank you SIR.
Well the hardest part was getting my key to the start position seeing how I was replacing my ignition cylinder because it wouldn’t go to the start position
I'm in the same position how did you get yours to finally turn to the start position? Mine is jammed and will only turn a few millimeters each direction and the steering wheel is locked as well
I’m in the same boat.
Pry off the plastic piece that is exposed on the lock cylinder where you insert the key, once that piece comes off stick a small Allen wrench or screwdriver etc. underneath the locking bar at the bottom of the cylinder and lift up on the locking bar while turning key and it will move into position
thanks for the info, some rat tried to steal mine but just busted the cilinder up
just happened to me this morning someone tried to steal my truck. broke in must of got interrupted or something because they just damaged the cylinder.
Thank you for your very informative video. I like that you even mentioned which torx drivers to use.
Thanks was precious help
Do appreciate the guidance
You forgot to say if you break that red hazard switch you in a world of trouble very easy to snap off.
Video was great. help me find that release but I would not recommend putting grease on it dry lubricant like graphite. Grease will just pick up dirt and pocket-lint and will cause a malfunction
The factory service manual specifies SuperLube grease GM part 12346241, probably because graphite is electrically conductive.
All u have to do is pull the 40a fuse under the hood so it won't engage the starter
or do what he did
E 5 aka 4mm had to use what's on hand
I the install new cylinder in my truck I don't work key turns good like new, start for few seconds and turn off ,and a put back the old cylinder and run good.
The new part needs the Passlock sensor
Can’t turn the key something must have gotten up in there or the spring won’t engage because it’s like I’m not putting my trucks key in. Sounds like the same problem you had the first time how did you depress that pin without getting it to start position?
What I've seen is the tumbler cover / plate will dislodge on one end You can get some additional lightweight lock grade lube in there via the release access hole, and you can try fishing a solid copper wire thru that same hole of large enough gauge that you might dislodge the plate. Be sure it's thick enough that it won't break off in there while you try! Last resort is a locksmith, they would have the specialized tools to force it out.
Thank you. My truck has started keeping the key in. I stop move to park, set park brake and I can not move the key all the way back to the position where the key can then be removed. Would removing and replacing as you did be the answer? Is there a RUclips on how to transfer the key components as you did so I don't have to have a new key? Any help would be appreciated.
It can be the lock cylinder as shown here, where either the tumbler spring retainer or the cylinder retainer have dislodged creating interference. It can also just be debris in the cylinder bore, particularly if the vehicle is operated in a dusty environment long term (e.g. dirt road). I would start first with just disassembly and inspection of the lock cylinder, and lubrication and reassemby if nothing is found wrong. You can transfer the tumblers to a new lock cylinder to keep the same key, if you end up having to that route. Or a lock smith can do this for a nominal fee if you bring in the old and new lock cylinders to their shop.
@@DrShock Thanks! I will try that and let you know. I really appreciate the help!
I removed the Old lock cylinder because I was unable to remove the key , the key would turn forward and turn on the truck but when you turn it off it does not release the key. I purchased a new lock cylinder w new keys and same issue
Presuming here you can crank, drive, and shut off the engine. What about the accessory position? Just a guess, but I would be looking first to see if I have some misalignment or interference with the ignition switch preventing getting fully into the off position which could prevent key removal. Considering you replaced the cylinder already it's something else.
Mine starts but stops on ac cant reach lock position pse help.
So our truck takes forever to get it to turn. We thought it was because we lost the original key so we had to use the spare key now, do you think my key is the problem or the ignition?
How much does the ignition cost and are they universal or do I need a very specific one?
Thanks in advance
The Ignition cylinders are vehicle specific, I include the GM numbers for the trucks this particular video covers in the description above. As far as having different keys behave differently I've certainly seen where an original key works smoothly and a replacement doesn't, that behavior is all on the key. But if you have two keys that both are hard to turn, then there I would more suspect the cylinder itself as the problem.
Any idea where one could purchase that plate that holds the tumbler springs in place? And is there a special tool to stake it in place?
Not a special tool per say, just a sharp edge tool to deform the softer metal of the cylinder into the harder metal of the plate. The GM part number for the plate, which GM calls a tumbler spring retainer, is 26047315 and it should still be available from your local Chevy dealer.
Is there any reprogramming involved by the dealer or is this just all mechanical swap out? The truck im purchasing needs new door locks so im buying a lock/ignition set so no tumbler replacement is necessary.
There is no scan tool required here, all mechanical though you may need to rekey the tumblers if you want the old keys to work in the new locks.
I was able to fix it with JB weld and a lot of patience...
This process is same for chevy Astro van 96 thanks?
Chevy Astro 2000 van
V
What do you do if you cannot turn the ignition to the start position? It’s locked up.
Now this methodology would it fix issues with passlock where is will start sometimes and other there is the security lockout
Possibly. For this year series of GM trucks, the lock cylinder just has a magnet related to the Passlock function. The magnet works with the sensor mounted in the steering column housing itself by being detected when you actually turn the cylinder with a key. That sensor then works with the passlock module and PCM to decide whether or not to throw the security tamper mode and block fuel to the engine. Any of these components could be involved in a passlock problem. So while the lock cylinder could be involved in a passlock problem, it's not always the reason for the security light to come on. Checking for codes with a scan tool may help narrow down which part is at fault.
Well I lost my key that's why I'm changing the lock how do I change it then
If you've lost the key time to call a locksmith.
My cylinder was totally locked I had key but couldn't make it turn no matter what I tried lube shaking vibration nothing until I straighten a safety pin and used it to push in that locking thing we're the springs were broken
did you solve this issue
did you solve this issue
justin brown
Yes watch at minute 5 it shows the tab that should drop when the key is in . If you use a safety pin that's straighten out you can push up on that tab then push in the collar it turned when I did it just had to try it a couple of times to get it right
So how do I remove the cylinder housing we're the the ignition cylinder for the key goes
Hi I am in the situation where the key will not turn enough for me to get the punch to hit the pin for it to come out like you said but how do I get it out at that point? Does anyone have suggestions
The lock mechanism can get jammed if there's an obstruction from broken metal (like the retaining pin for the lock mechanism). You have to lube it up really well, with a lock specific lubricant, and and try to rock it back and forth to see if you can get it to free up enough to move the release pin into position. It can take some significant time and patience to work one out with that kind of problem. If you don't have the time, I would just suggest going straight to the mobile locksmith option.
I have a 99 Cadillac Escalade and the key does not turn at all. How would I remove the top part of the steering column if I can't pull down the gear shift?
Amanda Perez Got the same problem with that on a service truck at work.
Do you know how to tighten up the gear select by chance??? I've pulled the cylinder lock out since the key can be removed while running, but the battery goes dead if you don't turn the key off totally.
The adjustment on the shift lever cable, like here ruclips.net/video/Obv-lwGu6g4/видео.html , is what initially comes to mind.
Can someone explain what the wires are for above where u put ur key?... are they part of the security system at all?... I'm having trouble with mine because the person before me that I bought the truck off of had all this is a mess and it was all tapped in place with electrical tape so after removing the tap my truck won't start and I noticed those wires either weren't on my truck or they were removed and if that has anything to do with the security system in anyway I'm wondering if that has anything to do with it
The wiring layout in the column area _may_ vary across models years, or across automatic to manual trucks. Best advice would be to consult a service manual for the particular year truck and verify you have all the wire colors and connections the schematics show for the steering column area.
Another option is a stop at your local pull-a-part salvage yard, like an LKQ, and visually compare an exact same model year and transmission type truck. You might even just pull the intact wiring harness and use that instead of your previous owner damaged one.
will this being bad cause the starter to click and not start? mine does this and i have to rapidly crank it and it will start time to time thank you!
Typically with the ignition lock it is going to be problems turning enough to start, or getting the key stuck when trying to turn to remove after. If the lock part appears working then I'd suspect either the ignition switch which is a separate part connected via harness or the starter motor itself.
Great video and thanks but how do you do this if you have lost the original key???
Thanks. The key is needed due to the anti-theft design. If you've lost the key, you really should call a locksmith. They will have the unique tools to remove the cylinder without the key.
@@DrShock Thanks buddy!
Hi, my new lock cylinder (06 Suburban) won't release the new key. Also, the "push & turn backwards for accessory" seems hinky. Is there another part that I should replace to address these issues? Thanks in advance.
Sorry, RUclipsrs...my stuck key problem was "operator trouble" all along. I had the gearshift all the way down during my lock cylinder swap & that was the culprit. No replies necessary; Thanks & Jolliness.
I'm dealing with a similar issue on a 2004 Cadillac I was curious would be possible to just remove the Tumblers so it with the key would turn regardless? Obviously it wouldn't work without the correct included keys I'm just trying to save a little money with an old vehicle
Obviously there's no theft protection in that route. But whether the cylinder would even function like that would be a question for a locksmith, I'm not sure.
Most dealers only charge about $25 to cut a new key and set the tumblers. Make sure to call around. Every dealer is different. They just need a VIN and proof of ownership.
What if i dont have the key? is there any way to remove the cylinder without the key?
Did you fix the problem I'm in the same situation any help would be good
DrShock, ever had a "Security" light issue? Re-watching this one... My '99 Suburban thinks I'm trying to steal it! Security light stays on, not the flashing security issue you can fix by relearning the key. Truck starts and immediately dies. Got a reman Passlock module that was supposed to fix it but...here I am. Gladly use the tip jag again if you have any advise.
What are the codes pulled by the scan tool, if any? This can be caused by a lack of communication between the VCM and the Passlock/EVO module.
@@DrShock TY for the reply. No codes... Just found that someone had done the diode install bypass trick in the past. So in theory, the new passlock module I put in is being bypassed; correct? I'm really perplexed on what to try next.
With no codes, and these symptoms, it's most likely a wiring harness problem. You'll need a factory service manual schematic, but what you'll want to do is go thru the checklist in the service manual checking for good fuses and proper voltages at each pin to the passlock/EVO module. Next there will be resistance checks across various pins of the harness. As I mentioned earlier this kind of fault can also happen when the VCM cannot communicate with the passlock/EVO module. You'll need to check the harness between both for any problems with the serial data line. While the ignition cylinder has a role to play, it's very unlikely to be causing what you're seeing unless it's the incorrect part or extremely shoddy asian import part (either way missing the integral magnet required for passlock to function).
@@DrShock Holy Moly... I started looking at the wiring harness and found where someone has done the "Diode" hack... Now what? Should I suspect that diode went bad/burned out? I'm going to try to reconfigure the bypass and see back in factory condition the reman Passlock works, I can always replace the diode hack if that doesn't work. Thanks for the reply. My last attempt before I call the Calvary and have it towed to a qualified shop... I don't know how much of this I can take.
Most digital multi-meters today have a diode test setting, you could check to see if it has failed. But if i were me I would remove this sort of modification and return the vehicle to the stock design. Someone may have done this to cover up a different security lamp or code problem, rather than properly diagnosing it at some point in the vehicles earlier life.
I am having a hard time moving the key to the start position. Been trying for weeks and cant do it. Any advice?
drill it out. I had to. No keys. Took about 20min with a good drill
Steven W did you get it
do you have a video of changing the tumblers?
No sorry I don't
Will a this give a intermediate security issue? I can take my key out of the tumbler in run position
The connection on these old body style (OBS) trucks ignition cylinder with the security (aka Passlock) system is the magnet built into them. When you turn the key the Passlock security module is looking to see that magnetic signal input to confirm the vehicle ignition switch is not being physically bypassed. As long as you have a genuine GM cylinder, or a top tier OEM aftermarket one, that magnet will be there. But it does need to rotate to function correctly.
I know this video was made 5 years ago. But i hvae a question do u have to have the key to remove the key switch
Yes, the key is needed to rotate the lock cylinder into the position where you can depress the release button and remove it.
I wish my case was that easy. I can't take the cover off cause its one piece on the p3500.
Perhaps pull the steering wheel then and come in from the front at an angle under the top cover lifted a bit? There will still be the same release type procedure for the 1500 and 2500 as shown once you gain access.
I’m having trouble removing the bolt next to the ignition switch. Seems stripped. Any suggestions
If stripped on the head of the bolt, then you might have to switch to long nose vice grips to get it out. And of course then replace it. If stripped into the steering column, using long nose pliers to apply downward force to the ratchet wrench is what I would try.
Cómo puedo alinear mi pickup Chevrolet 96 cabina y media
I have a question my 95 gmc lock cylinder is locked on ON it only turns two times and I cannot turn it on the 3rd time so. The ignition switch I had it also turn whitout a key but it just stayed on the 2nd turn, so I went to get a new ignition switch because I thought i would of fixed it but now that I installed the new ignition switch when I put the new ignition switch I couldn't removed the key because it was stuck on the 2nd turn so I had the same problem but now that I have a new ignition switch the key stays on because of the 2nd click and when I try to turn off the truck the shift indicator stays on and I have to remove my ground terminal on the battery so the battery wont die what's the problem here.
When I turn the key it just clicks twice instead of 3 I need help
Let me make sure I understand what you're describing here. So you have a 95 GMC fullsize truck and the ignition cylinder would rotate without a key inserted? You replaced the ignition switch (I'm going to presume you meant the ignition lock cylinder here not the electrical switch) and now you cannot turn the key to the off position on the steering column? If that's correct, I would suspect something with the ignition cylinder housing since you replaced the lock cylinder (again presumably you meant this and not the ignition switch which is just an electrical module) and its still giving you rotational problems. The ignition lock cylunder has to be able to freely rotate within the steering columns ignition housing and if it isn't you have to identify and correct what's binding it up inside the housing.
At 5:35 you start talking about the plate on the bottom of the tumbler of not "staking" it: how do you "stake" it, that is what my problem is.
Thanks for the reply. Great video, from this video is how I found out about the plate which was the problem with my steering column. Too late though, I was already at the scrap yard looking for a steering column. I still have the old steering column and the ignition tumbler, I'll try what you said.
I’ve been trying to get my ignition out for about 20 minutes I put the pick in the hole and it won’t go down
This usually would mean the switch is not in the off position fully. If its even a slight bit towards run the release won't be lined up with the access hole. The switch housing could just be very worn with excessive play. I would suggest a small drop or two of light oil (e.g., 3-in-1) and wiggling and flexing slightly between acc/off/run until you can feel the release with the pick. Then you'll know where it is off and work to adjust as needed.
So you don’t have to remove the white square connector ontop if the cylinder ?
For the years and model of this video only, just what I've shown is all that is needed.