Well yes, it was Hoovie but the copy-cat feeling is quite clear already. Hoovie has this crazy hopping intro which I hate. It fits neither of them. Hope he finds another mechanic whom he can introduce to the Internet (can't forget the Wizards death glare on his intro)
That smoke is probably a sign that the turbo is about to die. When the throttle is suddenly closed, a vacuum is generated in the turbine and that could draw oil from a bad seal/bearing.
@@ElliottAlvis Perhaps is a blessing in disguise. I have seen some crazy aftermarket mods on these are 60 r’s. I have a 2006S 60 R and I am really enjoying your journey with this car because I’m thinking of doing some mods on my car but I’m following your lead first. It would be really cool to see your wagon in the 450 hp region where I understand these cars can be taken too that level with a bigger turbo.
That smoke could be the turbo, but it could also be valve seals. Or both. Sitting that long, all the rubber is dry and hard. I would try some high mileage oil and see what happens.
@@michaeltutty1540 With leaking valve seals you commonly see a puff of smoke on startup too. Turbo cracking from sitting seems unlikely, but most R turbos develop the same relatively benign hot-side crack over ~100k mi. That doesn't cause it to lose oil though. Would be curious to know how the PCV is doing... When that fails as they often do you can blow all kinds of seals. Could possibly be piston rings too? Not a super common failure mode on this engine but not impossible
Oo maybe you could arrange an episode with the wizard and a his Volvo friend who had appeared on some video's of the Car Wizard. I think his name was the bugninja or something
Sounds like it's probably the same group Hoovie dealt with. But he has a much bigger following so they tried to "make things right" for him. Obviously they haven't taken it seriously beyond trying to look good on Hoovie's channel.
@@ElliottAlvis heck yes, I knew nothing about cars when I was 19, in fact there was no youtube when I was 19, had to use magazines, when RUclips came, I was able to get u limited certificates on everything!! Lol
Volvo fan here. I wish I could say your dealership experience was an isolated event, but unfortunately it's not. Try and find a good independent Volvo mechanic. VIDA-DICE will help you a lot with the stuff you may be able to tackle yourself. Before you go ANY further though, a word of caution: the Rs do have a problem with the blocks cracking. This is NOT a head gasket, but is often misdiagnosed as one. The block will crack between the cylinder walls and you'll start burning coolant. Keep an eye on your coolant and if it keeps going low with no obvious leaks, pull the plugs and check for white buildup.
Thanks for the new video and the car updates!! Take that Volvo to the Car Wizard! We all missed you during the Motory Notary absence. I had to watch your older videos to satisfy my need for Motory Notary videos....
I am by no means a certified Volvo mechanic, but here is the pretty substantial info that I can give you on the issues that you mentioned. 1. Volvo sunroofs from this era had a problem. All sunroofs leak, but the issue was that the drain tubes would back up and flood the cabin. I know this is true, because it totally trashed my '04 XC90 T6. The subfloor will literally fill with water -- virtually every single Volvo of this era had the issue. This is why the yaw sensor is dead -- mine literally had a waterline on it. You can get new (used) ones for quite cheap and the swap is insanely easy. 2. That may also explain the lack of speakers...Volvo put amplifier components down on the floor under the passenger seat. I got lucky, mine did not die (the XC90 has a different system) but yours may well have. 3. Your car has rain sensing wipers. That is likely the cause of the "haywire" wiper system. A faulty sensor can cause this. You can "fix" this sometimes simply by unplugging the sensor, at which point the wipers will often function normally again (minus rain sensing of course). 4. BCM is your antiskid/antilock brake control module. Pretty big deal from a safety perspective, get that fixed ASAP. 5. Have you checked the PCV system health? Put a glove over the oil fill cap and start the car. If it inflates, you need a new breather box/hose kit as well as an intake manifold gasket. This can contribute to burning oil. I could also see it being turbo related...but again, no expert here. 6. Timing belt/water pump is expensive on Volvo cars because it is a PAIN IN THE ASS to do. Volvo makes coils, plugs, simple stuff easy to access. But timing belts require a specific tool to lock the two cams in a fixed position (hard with VVT) and (at least on the XC90 with the long T6) you also have to pull the passenger wheel, fold back the liner, remove a headlight and a few other things. It sucks, though experienced mechanics get pretty fast at doing it.
I had an 05 S60R that I drove from 09 to 13...it was wonderful and these videos bring back the great memories...the silver 5 blade Pegasus wheels, the navy interior, those seats were the most comfortable seats I have owned, the drive was so so good, and it was fast...thanks for the chance to relive...
They didn't know for sure and it reflects bad on them and potential business opportunities in the future. Let alone that he paid for the whole diagnostics instead of getting a free estimate. All the lame excuses are nonesensical anyway. 🤷♂
@@kowalski5599 every car and mechanic RUclipsr in that area all have had issues with the dealership. Hoovie actually has a full video about what's going on with the dealership.
I don’t know what exactly he asked the dealer to do, but for $140 and check up for everything he mentioned? I’m aware of that every god damn dealership is notorious for ripping off. However, all those issues are not considered easy diagnosis especially when it comes to an old car like that. Maybe the reason why he got only couple diagnosis is that dealer asked more labor time to proceed with further diagnosis and he declined it. I would say he’s pretty lucky that dealer only charged $140 for all those even if they didn’t give him all the answers to what problems he had.
@@user-ih4zj5nt9q Volvo has a “standard” rate for “diagnosis”. In Sweden it’s about the equivalent to $140. What they do is plug in that little computer thingy in the OBD2 socket and push “play”. It’s literally a 5 minute job including a coffee brake.
Couldn't miss that beautiful Nassau blue Vette hood and sure enough next video is Hoovie's Vette is done. Guess we know who does the drive by filming now
The smoke when changing gears probably indicates a bad internal turbo shaft seal. You're dumping all that pressure on each shift which produces a massive pressure shock and disruption happening. If the seals are marginal, oil seeps by and gets consumed. If it goes for too long, you may find it starts triggering the CEL for the O2 sensor as it and the catalytic converter is starting to get coated. You'd probably need to be driving it under hard boost all the time or tracking it though.
[V70R owner here - great to see you enjoying your wagon!] Oily smoke - I'm saying it's due to wear around the valve guides - when the motor runs hard, oil pressure in the valvetrain area builds up, and then, on the overrun, the pressure goes negative, and that extra oil gets sucked via the valve guides, into the cylinders. Not a big problem in itself - though obviously it increases oil consumption, and it's kinda embarassing. But porobably not top of the priority list. Get that VIDA hooked up! it's a PITA getting the DICE software to work - but it will proper|y identify your issues - I was able toi fix my Active Chassis setup without recourse to expensive Volvo dealer service.
Make sure the PCV isn’t plugged or a vacuum leak source. Will contribute to the smoke on deceleration. Compressor bypass valve diaphragm might be torn creating massive imbalance in pressures on deceleration. Valve stem seals will usually pull oil through at idle as opposed to what your are experiencing.
I had a 2004 V70R and kept it for about 13 years and got rid of it at 235,000 miles. Loved driving the car but it definitely had a few bumps along the way (my dealer was actually really great to work with). I had one issue that actually took a bit to sort out early in the car where I was getting anti-skid service and other warnings at random. It would tend to happen on really humid or wet days. Turned out after the dealer couldn't figure it out the engineers in Sweden got back to them and told them it could only be one thing. Some corrosion on a set of terminals that was getting shorted when there was enough moisture in the air. Sure enough it was exactly that. At the end of the car's life I also had a problem where there was some slipping going on as you described and it did turn out to be the angle gear being worn out to the point that it occasionally slipped. The cost was more than I wanted to spend to repair. They told me I could keep driving and one of two things would happen, either I would end up with a stripped gear and it would become a front wheel drive car or it would seize. Hope you get the car running smoothly and can enjoy.
That flooding might also be why your radio isn't working because if I remember correctly from when I owned an s60, the amp for the audio systems is under the driver seat.
I Purchased a Flash Green over Atacama V70 R just days after you bought yours Elliott. I’ve been chasing maintenance items and building up mine along side you. Lots of Swedish fun times!
At one point I was really scared that you would get angry with the dealership and sell this monster. Wish you good luck and can't wait to see you fixing this treasure!
Go to the Car Weeezard. I'll only ever take my car to independent shops if I can help it. Dealerships and chain repair shops charge too much for no reason because their techs usually aren't that master-tech. I had a chain shop (Firestone) diagnose the failed steering rack bushings as ball joints (the bushings were visibly bad, hard to miss), but I told the guy up front what was wrong and I had replaced the ball joints a year prior. I just wanted a price for them to replace them. The only reason to go to a dealer is if it's required for programming something that no one else can or is allowed to do. I doubt that's the case with this old Volvo.
If there is something amiss with the anti-skid....from my understanding, this disables the awd. My awd s60 had similar issue and was not too $$ to repair. My BMW X5 also had a similar issue and was the steering angle sensor.
I had a 12 yo Kia Carnival ( here in Australia). The ESP, radio, Cruise control and cold-start sensor all eventually closed down in a 12 month timespan. No one wanted to touch it so off to the wreckers it went. I hope you have better luck than me. I like Volvos , too.
The smoke out of exhaust is a sign on a clogged PCV system, which is common on the 2.5T. Clogged PCV pushed the crankcase gases through other places like seals and you get oil smoke - that’s what I’m currently experience. To confirm, you can do a Rubber Glove test - with a running car, open up your oil filler cap and put a blue glove over it. If it airs up, PCV is clogged. Not a cheap job, just a heads up. Good luck!
- the puff smoke is because of the PCV system clogged (positive crankcase ventilation). There are a lot of videos online on what and how to replace. Can be done in anywhere from 2-4h. Anyway, it's a must to replace when you get a used Volvo with no maintenance records, otherwise it will lead to more costly repairs. - the ECU's can be reconditioned by a company called xemodex, they have pretty good service. Never had any luck in the past with just cleaning the contacts or connectors, (but you can try this first, of course). Usually water gets in the ECU's itself. Especially the CEM underneath the driver side dashboard. Also most ECU's on these Volvo's are paired with the car so not interchangeable with other vehicles if you are thinking of getting a salvaged one you would have to take it to a company like xemodex or a dealership to pair it to your VIN again (Vida cannot do that). - The 4 wheel drive and suspension you will get good info from Dice/Vida on what's wrong with it. But that's gonna be pricy, the sensors or other cheaper parts don't usually fail, is mostly the suspension dampeners and the haldex unit and pump. Really sorry about you dealership experience, try to avoid Volvo dealerships in the future. However, you will have an exceptional experience with the tight Volvo community, this is where you will get most of info and work done. You could find a lot of Volvo guys willing to do work such as timing replacement for even free or a fraction of what you would pay at a dealer.
Thanks for the detailed comment! I am hoping the smoke is from the PCV and not a turbo seal going. I sure was hoping to just clean the contacts on the computers and be good, but if thats not likely, that is disappointing, but like you said, I'll still try it first.
Very easy , did both 2 mos ago........ just make sure not to lose the tiny clips and make sure they go perfectly in the tiny holes...... annoying but easy.
I own a 2002 S80. I purchased a Gates water pump & timing belt kit for £90, and placed it on the car in under an hour, she's been running fine for the past 3 years :)
Great ! I also drive a V 70 (blue), paint came of the bonnet. What a fantastic car ! And I brought it to the dealer. What a bunch of tossers ! Learned to repair it myself. Resprayed the bonnet. Replaced the ECU and the TractionControl Module... Robert DIY Videos helped me tremendously !
I just took my MB to get a full inspection at MB $524. They wanted to bang me for a $6000 transfer case that needed a fluid change, and $3200 for front cv axles. OH and your brakes are low, 6 front and 5 rear. a bunch of services and tires(which i knew are due.) who would pay for service after $10,000 in repairs? I paid my bill and didnt even get brake/tire specs and several of my issues werent even addressed. I work at a chrysler dealer and i agree, stay away from the stealership unless you have a good working relationship with them.I was primarily after verification on a couple items that needed diaged with the mb computer, so I knew which way to go and they just wanted to bang me. I found a YT video of a guy with a similar t case issue that got the fluid good and warm and did the change. Low and behold it fixed the problem for $30. Not $6000 plus labor.
The CEM on these is up begind the dash. You'll need to have most of the scuttle panel out to access it too. The often suffer water ingress. DiCE is a good VCI to have, but you'll need a login for VIDA too. This requires a subscription and has to be registered through Volvo. It may be easier in the US due to your "tech service" rulings making access to diagnostics mandatory. Also, there's very little you can do beyond code reads and live data. Programming new modules or updating software is all done through software purchased at a dealer and sent to your VIDA account. You'll need a friendly dealer to do that.
I had an S60R that had nearly all the same issues as your V70R. I had a local independent shop do a bunch of work to that car, including a few of the computer modules, which they had sent off to a company I believe in Ontario, Canada, which was about half the price of new ones and came with a lifetime warranty. They also waterproofed the modules, as I believe that the sunroofs are in issue on these years of Volvo's. I managed to buy front struts on Rockauto for about 500 CAD each, but they went out of stock as fast as they came into stock.
Heya Elliot. I’m a parts manager at a Volvo dealership(not in the US). I could potentially help out with getting part numbers for some items you require. Happy to help in any way I can. Cheers
Clogged sunroof drainplugs are a common issue with Volvo, they're burried in the pillars and they used connectors for tubes that are clog easily with minor dust or dirt. Sometimes they can be drilled out to allow for better flow. When it goes wrong water flows into the interior and settles at lowest points in footwell or under seat where the computers are located. Some models had class action lawsuit..
@@ElliottAlvis Those in the know are said to bring a 5 gallon bucket to pour water on roof when purchasing a used one. I've had 3 Volvo; 240 Wag, V70 XC and current 2010 XC60 and they've all had this issue. I keep em outside but still it doesnt take much... if you google you'll see the trail of Volvo sunroof tears.. Good luck with your spaceball!
That VIDA set up will save you a lot of headaches and save you a lot of diagnostic fees. That $100 “diagnostic fee” you payed for is just paying for a Volvo tech to plug in their VIDA and printing out what the car is telling them. They won’t actually spend time to diagnose problems. I can see the yaw sensor going bad it happens frequently. There’s tons of used good ones out there for sale. Plus it takes 20min to replace. BCM could be rebuilt by XEmodex if it really is bad. The oil burning is still very weird. Maybe turbo seals I’d check your intake pipes to see if there’s an excessive amount of oil in them. But this VR is still off to a better start then most projects I’ve seen! Hit us up on Instagram is you need help sourcing parts👍 God speed 🇸🇪👍
Ha! I did something similar on my third Mini R53. There was a recall on the power steering pump by Mini. I brought it in and Mini paid for a new power steering pump on a 16 year old car - a $1,500 service. While it was in there the dealer went through it at a Pre-Purchase inspection level inspection… for free. They provided my with a 21 page report of what the Mini needed which totaled $4,800 for a car I purchased for $825. I thanked them but declined the $4,800 repairs - including $75 to replace a bad bulb in my bumper. I fixed the top things myself or had my indy mechanic do. Sold the car the next month for $3,500. Rolled that profit into the next Mini… my final R53.
I did my timing belt water pump and tensioner on my s60 myself in about 3 hours for about 150 dollars in parts. Yes if you wondering it runs great with no check engine light.
Stealership is a good word. In my country you only go there when you're under warranty (and even then they can still mess something up or decline the repair) and after that you stay as far away as possible.
I feel for you. I took ownership of a lovely and lively V70R. Such a great car, but she was a hard mistress. It. Never. Ended. It was like a game of whack a mole. ECM, brake computer, struts, brakes, half shafts, turbo….everything BUT the angle gear, ironically. And then the motor blew.
This episode was definitely worth waiting for, Elliott Alves! Has anyone ever had a good dealership experience? They are okay when they have an oil change special, otherwise they are in business just to screw you over. Sales, Finance or Service, they suck!
I have the same problem with my v70r radio. Its the contacts in de motherboard of the radio you nee to fix. It's a common issue with these older volvo cars. If you cant fix your suspension, buy the monroe suspension for the car. It's the same as the original but 30 to 50% cheaper. They are actually the fabricator of the original suspension btw.
There is a hydraulic pump on the rear end that has a habbit of going out. If/when this happens you loose the all wheel drive. It's a bit of a pain to replace but it is at home doable. Also, still super jealous!!lol
The amp for your radio is under the passenger seat. Bad sunroof drains will kill it with the quickness. The sunroof drains are just rubber hose running down the A-Pillars and are cut *just* long enough at the factory. So when heat shrinks them over time, they pop out of their drain nipples at the bottom and just dump water down the inside of the firewall.
I did the timing belt, waterpump and idler pulley myself with jackstands underneath the car in 2 days, this was including fishing out the exploded waterpump and replacing the radiator. Took them quite a long time to fix it....
I'd definitely try the car wizard, because he'll also let you know whether certain items are rebuildable, and maybe tell you what you can do yourself. And he'll be thorough on the need for service/ maintenance items after the long rest the car has had.
VIDA SW & DICE can be helpful but many new, higher end scan tools can do more. When the sunroof drain (drivers side) gets plugged, water can drip on the CEM module beneath the dash causing all sorts of issues. If replacement is needed, Xemodex can take your old one and another (used) CEM and reprogram and unplug/replace relays/fuses, etc. and ship it back to you...back in business. Good luck! [owner of three 2004-2010 Volvo models...XC90 (P2), S60T (P2) and S80 T6 (P3)]
Your videos are getting better Elliot! The repair bill doesnt seem bad, I am in LA. Wonder if Ninja is willing to work on it. Thank you Euro-Asian Bob, we love you!
Replacing the lift gate struts is a DIY job. I'm getting ready to do mine (2004 V70 2.5T AWD). As you said, the hardest part is getting to them. Here's a how-to for a V70 : ruclips.net/video/xeIOXiJXBK0/видео.html I'm pretty sure the trim pieces on the R come out the same way. Keep it up, liked subscribed. EDIT: I avoid the Volvo dealer here in Atlanta like the plague. Got the device you have now and read the codes on my own. Also found a private garage with a guy who has over 30 years experience working on Volvo's. You need to find "that guy" in your city.
Don't waste your money on getting a replacement factory radio. You can get a solid DD with Android Auto/Apple Car Play and a dash kit for about the same price that will do everything and more that the factory HU could do. If you really want to get the factory radio working the most cost effective option is you taking it out getting a factory radio harness and a 12v Power Supply and a volt meter but at the end of the day it's an almost 20 year old factory radio that sounded mediocre when it was new. As far as the dealer taking your 150 diagnostics fee they pretty much looked at your early 2000s Volvo and decided they didn't want anything to do with it beyond what you were actually paying to fix. They don't really make money on repairing your old car. They want warranty work for new cars that's where the real billable hours are and while the customer doesn't pay for it Volvo does. So they will bill the shit out warranty work. Your car isn't valuable to them so they will either quote you a stupid high fee so you will leave of they will forget your number.
After owning an XC90 V8 for 6 years I will never own another Volvo. Dealers down here in Atlanta GA suck too. Luckily I did all of the work on it myself but my dad also has a XC90 and the dealerships have ran him through the ringer.
If I were in striking distance of the Wizard I would just take it to him instead of a dealer. That puff of smoke when you let off is probably the valves.
My "motary notary' your oil plums is a result of worn out exhaust valves stems..., and while you're at it, do the intake valve stems.... Love your content, keep rocking
I’ve done the yaw sensor on a xc90. I believe it’s behind the airbag in the steering wheel. Maybe in the column. It’s been a few years but it was not tooooo bad. Good luck. Love this ole wagon.
I got my 2004 V70's rear hatch gas shocks for $23 online, and it took about 45 minutes to replace them. There is a youtube video showing exactly how. it's easy. Just use a T25, to take out some screws, tug off the plastic interior trim, and then use a flat screw driver to remove the C clips holding the ends of the shocks to the ball mount.
If you’re able to get the modules removed and clean them, maybe you can try the cell phone trick and place them in bags of uncooked rice for a few days. Might get rid of some possible lingering moisture. It certainly can’t hurt! But yeah I think you’re on the right track with trying to clean the contacts. Great video! Also, during the second “puff of smoke” shot, was that Hoovie in his ‘Vette that you were passing?
I just was at the Volvo dealership in my C30 because the steering lock kept getting stuck, they quoted me 1200 DOLLARS!!! The part itself is like 250 bucks MAXIMUM and I even took off the whole bottom portion of the dash already so all they had to do was unscrew like two screws and replace and program it lol
If the active chassis says temporarily disabled (or something along those lines I'm not in my R to check) it is 9/10 a strut, wheel speed sensor, throttle position sensor or wiring and since you know the struts are blown it is most likely that. For anyone confused why it could be the throttle position sensor R's are throttle by wire and the pedal is supposed to adjust with the settings don't ask me why but if either something on the strut side or throttle side fails it shuts down both. Source I own an S60R and asked the only Volvo specialty in my state a bunch of questions to guide me in my repairs and that's what they told me. Also you totally could've done the belt by yourself, it is definitely a pain in the ass without the locking tool but I did the whole job by myself with 6 months experience as a lube tech and just had an old timer I trusted check it over before I turned it. It would've been much easier for you too because my car was a sitter I had absolutely no left over resistance from the oil pressure on the cams if I tugged the belt at all they would both spin lol.
There are tons of Swedish RUclips channels that fix v70s. I have one of theses cars of my own. Solving the trunk is super easy, just pull the interior panels. The all wheel drive is only active when traction is missing on the front wheels, so it doesn’t have to be that bad. The dice module also requires a software vida. But maybe you got that as well.
Might contact John Ross' salvage parts dear and see if they have the wiper arms and some of the other parts. I imagine they would have a selection of Volvos in their large parts inventory.
Fantastic video of the Volvo. Looking forward to updates in the future, resolving the issues. And yes, the Volvo dealership in Wichita is now a part of a family owned set of dealers who are to be avoided at all costs.
Same for me. The Volvo dealerships in germany are not different. Went to 4 of those, and all had a hard time diagnosing my 2005 V50 (and bad service). After a long search i finaly found a local independent shop where they fixed all the problems i suspected with my car. They even read up on some Volvo specific procedures.
Wow, very similar to Hoovie's convertible 911 experience at that dealership group. I agree with others re: Turbo shaft seal/pressure spikes/dips. I'd also try to do the rear hatch struts yourself- I did them on my Saab 9-5 wagon while in high school. It wasn't too difficult, just pull the headliner trim, peel the headliner back, and have an assistant overextend the hatch while you replace the struts. Make sure to only do one at a time, though yours might be so dead they're past the point where that helps.
But the central speaker on the dash (I assume that he has one as it's probably blue or even yellow speaker sticker option - see Dolby unit) is powered by the unit itself, not by the amplifier and it should work regardless of the amplifier state.
One of the first things I got when I bought my '07 VR was a VIDA DICE setup. Even though my car was owned by a good buddy of mine (R.I.P. TK) and was maintained meticulously, it saved me big bucks the first time I had an issue with the car (FPS). Worth the money.
Knows the Wizard, Bugninja, and JRGO... Goes to dealership to see what's wrong with the car... LOL! I'm always sitting around here wishing I knew and had those guys near me to help investigate issues, and I'm no where near them! You crack me up brother! Best of luck on getting the Volvo back to her prime.
yes, if I paid $140 for a diagnostic evaluation, I would expect them to do the whole car and not just one or two items they can easily diagnose. I would be calling the service manager and telling him this is bullshit and you paid for the diagnostics for the whole car, not just one system. I'm sure Elliot gave them ideas on what all was wrong with it and they just blew it off. If the service manager didn't step up to fix it, I would then be calling the overall dealership manager. If that didn't work, I would be emailing Volvo itself to tell them what kind of dealership is selling and servicing their cars.
Perhaps Elliott's dealership experience is a reason why someone like Adrian "the bug ninja" would no longer wish to work at a Volvo dealership, even though the man could talk a buyer into most anything. Too bad for Volvo.
Used to have an old 240GLT estate. Wish I still had it now. She's going to be a hooptie for sure. Be well and stay safe. Thank you for your hard work in making these videos.
I haven't had one of these specifically, but I've owned and worked on a 2.4 5-cylinder Volvo. As far as I know the only computer inside the cabin is the CEM, all the other boxes are under the hood. I kinda doubt they all went bad at the same time. I don't think the car would even start with a bad BCM as the immobilizer would get mad. The PCV system on this car is a pain in the butt. You need to clean it out or replace it. Intake valves not sealing properly will cause that plume of smoke you're experiencing, but I'd check for turbo issues first. Good luck with this car, I wish I could find one for a reasonable price but they're well over 10 grand in Sweden :(
I actually work at a volvo dealership in norway, these cars are pretty rare but we see them sometimes and we always try our best to help our customers with their problems. So sorry to hear about your bad experience with a volvo dealership. If you need any help with your car and/or the dice and VIDA software, feel free to reach out and i will help you as best i can! I’m not an Expert myself but i’m learning as i go
Unfortunately the tech probably didn’t think it was worth the time to diagnose everything wrong with it. Couldn’t get it out of his bay fast enough. From my experience, most dealers don’t put much effort into diagnosing old cars because they assume the owner will decline the work and take the checklist to someone cheaper or forgo the repairs altogether. I could see that happening when he saw the wipers missing and the upper timing cover slung in the back seat.
Yeah, you’re probably correct. But that doesn’t mean they shouldn’t have at least quoted some stuff. Especially when I was so willing to do an expensive service without batting an eye.
I am a bit on the fence on the V70R. Being a Swede, we have V70's in enormous quantites - it was the most sold car in Sweden year after year after year after year... after year. And it is a comfy car. But to my taste, the R lost a bit too much of that comfy softness without ever being close to a true sports car (and nope, it's not about speed).
The radio volume knob is busted. Its a rotary potentiometer. Same thing on my XC70. Its pretty common, and also happens to the fan speed switch. I just live with it, and use the steering wheel volume controls. To use the DICE, you need a dedicated Win 7 computer with the VIDA software. there are volvo forum members who sell them inexpensively. I have to say, I didn't like having to do that, but the software has everything you need for diagnosis, as well as all the service procedures. If you mess with ANY electronic module, disconnect the battery first. The CAN bus runs through ALL the electronic bits on these cars, so if you pull the HVAC panel or the radio for example, everything downstream gets screwed up, and you start experiencing all sorts of weird errors. Lastly, sounds like the dealership is firing the parts cannon. Its pretty common for the 4C struts to go, and they are costly, but the PCM and BCM? Nah. Do some electrical diagnosis and I bet you find some wiring problems (with, like, the actual wires). If there was water inside from the sunroof, that's likely.
i think this car has a radio amplifier under the passenger seat. it is possible it's fuse is blown or in case of water damage the amp is blown. The windscreen wipers is most likely the cem, but it can be the switch inside the wiper motor that senses the stopping point when not in use. the shocks are possible replaced with the cheap, not adjustable ones.
It is good to see the Motory Notary! Great video. Your experience is one of the reasons I absolutely abhor taking any of my cars to a dealer. Fortunately, you have some other great resources you can depend upon! How long did Tyler complain about being smoked out in his Corvette??
Here in California, for the same timing belt job but NO water pump or diagnostics, I was quoted $1120 before tax. With water pump $1675 before tax LOL. Ended up going to a good independent shop instead.
Until you get that smoke issue cleared up you should call it Puff, The Magic Wagon ... I'll show myself out.
Dont forget your coat! LOL!
git your ass back in here. I like it.
@@2kcars507 A coat of many colors?
Wicked clever
@@davidedgar3509 But it isn't Josephs Volvo, it's Elliotts? 🤔
I love that the guy behind you, ended up being Hoovie.
Yeah, I spotted that blue nose too, and just having watched Hoovie's today video, I knew it was him. LOL
Was just thinking that, straight to the comments to confirm. Who knew Kansas would be car RUclips central...
Hoovie is everywhere lol
Well yes, it was Hoovie but the copy-cat feeling is quite clear already. Hoovie has this crazy hopping intro which I hate. It fits neither of them. Hope he finds another mechanic whom he can introduce to the Internet (can't forget the Wizards death glare on his intro)
so if hoovies around why not take it to the wizard
That smoke is probably a sign that the turbo is about to die. When the throttle is suddenly closed, a vacuum is generated in the turbine and that could draw oil from a bad seal/bearing.
Yikes... Thats not good.
@@ElliottAlvis Perhaps is a blessing in disguise. I have seen some crazy aftermarket mods on these are 60 r’s. I have a 2006S 60 R and I am really enjoying your journey with this car because I’m thinking of doing some mods on my car but I’m following your lead first. It would be really cool to see your wagon in the 450 hp region where I understand these cars can be taken too that level with a bigger turbo.
That smoke could be the turbo, but it could also be valve seals. Or both. Sitting that long, all the rubber is dry and hard. I would try some high mileage oil and see what happens.
@@michaeltutty1540 as in use synthetic oil?
@@michaeltutty1540 With leaking valve seals you commonly see a puff of smoke on startup too. Turbo cracking from sitting seems unlikely, but most R turbos develop the same relatively benign hot-side crack over ~100k mi. That doesn't cause it to lose oil though. Would be curious to know how the PCV is doing... When that fails as they often do you can blow all kinds of seals. Could possibly be piston rings too? Not a super common failure mode on this engine but not impossible
It’s cool how both Hoovie & Elliot both help each other record their videos.
You should have handed in the car to the Wizard.
my thoughts or the car ninja
Definitely would be cool to have the wizard look over it.
Hoovie probably has a patent for that 😂
Car Wizard with the Bug Ninja...he probably sold it too if its local
🧙♀️wizard time!!!!
Oo maybe you could arrange an episode with the wizard and a his Volvo friend who had appeared on some video's of the Car Wizard. I think his name was the bugninja or something
Yes! He’s a friend of mine as well. That’s a good idea.
@@ElliottAlvis Dooooo it!
@@ElliottAlvis Oh I didn't even think of him. He would be a great person to get to look over your Volvo as he loves those things so much.
Wait that’s not Rich Rebuilds?!
Bug Ninja!
Hoovie had similar dealership experience with a inspection on his Porsche. Tells you dealers just don’t care, even if you pay them. Thus stealership.
Apparently! Extra $140 down the drain.
Same dealership group?
@@Shauma_llama Sounds like "The Walser Way" to me.
Sounds like it's probably the same group Hoovie dealt with. But he has a much bigger following so they tried to "make things right" for him. Obviously they haven't taken it seriously beyond trying to look good on Hoovie's channel.
Dealers.. is what made me get my RUclips Mechanic Certificate
And it’s worked out great for you so far! So maybe there is a silver lining here...
@@ElliottAlvis heck yes, I knew nothing about cars when I was 19, in fact there was no youtube when I was 19, had to use magazines, when RUclips came, I was able to get u limited certificates on everything!! Lol
Volvo fan here. I wish I could say your dealership experience was an isolated event, but unfortunately it's not. Try and find a good independent Volvo mechanic. VIDA-DICE will help you a lot with the stuff you may be able to tackle yourself. Before you go ANY further though, a word of caution: the Rs do have a problem with the blocks cracking. This is NOT a head gasket, but is often misdiagnosed as one. The block will crack between the cylinder walls and you'll start burning coolant. Keep an eye on your coolant and if it keeps going low with no obvious leaks, pull the plugs and check for white buildup.
Where I am from we call dealerships, Stealerships
@@FixItNick its very nice to know
most wholesome member of the automotive youtube community
Haha, thank you!
@@ElliottAlvis and loving your range of cat shirts 😻 How's your neck? Are you fully recovered dude?
Thanks for the new video and the car updates!! Take that Volvo to the Car Wizard! We all missed you during the Motory Notary absence. I had to watch your older videos to satisfy my need for Motory Notary videos....
haha, well thanks Michael! It's an honor to be missed!
7:47 I wouldn't feel bad, the car following has made much more bad smoke in its recent history...
Haha, that’s true!
HAHA Yeah
The booster seats are awesome. Had them in my XC70 (2006). I mentioned them in a previous comment when you got the car.
They rule! It's such a neat feature. Thanks for mentioning them!
I am by no means a certified Volvo mechanic, but here is the pretty substantial info that I can give you on the issues that you mentioned.
1. Volvo sunroofs from this era had a problem. All sunroofs leak, but the issue was that the drain tubes would back up and flood the cabin. I know this is true, because it totally trashed my '04 XC90 T6. The subfloor will literally fill with water -- virtually every single Volvo of this era had the issue. This is why the yaw sensor is dead -- mine literally had a waterline on it. You can get new (used) ones for quite cheap and the swap is insanely easy.
2. That may also explain the lack of speakers...Volvo put amplifier components down on the floor under the passenger seat. I got lucky, mine did not die (the XC90 has a different system) but yours may well have.
3. Your car has rain sensing wipers. That is likely the cause of the "haywire" wiper system. A faulty sensor can cause this. You can "fix" this sometimes simply by unplugging the sensor, at which point the wipers will often function normally again (minus rain sensing of course).
4. BCM is your antiskid/antilock brake control module. Pretty big deal from a safety perspective, get that fixed ASAP.
5. Have you checked the PCV system health? Put a glove over the oil fill cap and start the car. If it inflates, you need a new breather box/hose kit as well as an intake manifold gasket. This can contribute to burning oil. I could also see it being turbo related...but again, no expert here.
6. Timing belt/water pump is expensive on Volvo cars because it is a PAIN IN THE ASS to do. Volvo makes coils, plugs, simple stuff easy to access. But timing belts require a specific tool to lock the two cams in a fixed position (hard with VVT) and (at least on the XC90 with the long T6) you also have to pull the passenger wheel, fold back the liner, remove a headlight and a few other things. It sucks, though experienced mechanics get pretty fast at doing it.
I had an 05 S60R that I drove from 09 to 13...it was wonderful and these videos bring back the great memories...the silver 5 blade Pegasus wheels, the navy interior, those seats were the most comfortable seats I have owned, the drive was so so good, and it was fast...thanks for the chance to relive...
The dealer knew they would be wasting their time giving you a list of things that you weren't gonna have them do.
They didn't know for sure and it reflects bad on them and potential business opportunities in the future. Let alone that he paid for the whole diagnostics instead of getting a free estimate. All the lame excuses are nonesensical anyway. 🤷♂
Volvo knew it wasn't worth their time to diagnose all issues, they ain't getting a cent out of you to repair them 😉
But they were being paid to locate the issues. So there's that.
@@kowalski5599 every car and mechanic RUclipsr in that area all have had issues with the dealership. Hoovie actually has a full video about what's going on with the dealership.
I don’t know what exactly he asked the dealer to do, but for $140 and check up for everything he mentioned? I’m aware of that every god damn dealership is notorious for ripping off. However, all those issues are not considered easy diagnosis especially when it comes to an old car like that. Maybe the reason why he got only couple diagnosis is that dealer asked more labor time to proceed with further diagnosis and he declined it. I would say he’s pretty lucky that dealer only charged $140 for all those even if they didn’t give him all the answers to what problems he had.
@@user-ih4zj5nt9q ? the 140 was for a diagnostic list of issues, nothing else... he paid over a grand for the timing belt replacement etc
@@user-ih4zj5nt9q Volvo has a “standard” rate for “diagnosis”. In Sweden it’s about the equivalent to $140. What they do is plug in that little computer thingy in the OBD2 socket and push “play”. It’s literally a 5 minute job including a coffee brake.
you have increased your following by 10,000 with the addition of this Volvo, great going plus I like this much better continued good luck
Couldn't miss that beautiful Nassau blue Vette hood and sure enough next video is Hoovie's Vette is done. Guess we know who does the drive by filming now
The smoke when changing gears probably indicates a bad internal turbo shaft seal. You're dumping all that pressure on each shift which produces a massive pressure shock and disruption happening. If the seals are marginal, oil seeps by and gets consumed. If it goes for too long, you may find it starts triggering the CEL for the O2 sensor as it and the catalytic converter is starting to get coated. You'd probably need to be driving it under hard boost all the time or tracking it though.
Good info. I'll be taking it fairly easy until I get to the bottom of it, thats for sure. Thanks!
There are turbo rebuild kits out there from reputable companies do some digging.
[V70R owner here - great to see you enjoying your wagon!] Oily smoke - I'm saying it's due to wear around the valve guides - when the motor runs hard, oil pressure in the valvetrain area builds up, and then, on the overrun, the pressure goes negative, and that extra oil gets sucked via the valve guides, into the cylinders.
Not a big problem in itself - though obviously it increases oil consumption, and it's kinda embarassing. But porobably not top of the priority list.
Get that VIDA hooked up! it's a PITA getting the DICE software to work - but it will proper|y identify your issues - I was able toi fix my Active Chassis setup without recourse to expensive Volvo dealer service.
Make sure the PCV isn’t plugged or a vacuum leak source. Will contribute to the smoke on deceleration. Compressor bypass valve diaphragm might be torn creating massive imbalance in pressures on deceleration. Valve stem seals will usually pull oil through at idle as opposed to what your are experiencing.
I had a 2004 V70R and kept it for about 13 years and got rid of it at 235,000 miles. Loved driving the car but it definitely had a few bumps along the way (my dealer was actually really great to work with). I had one issue that actually took a bit to sort out early in the car where I was getting anti-skid service and other warnings at random. It would tend to happen on really humid or wet days. Turned out after the dealer couldn't figure it out the engineers in Sweden got back to them and told them it could only be one thing. Some corrosion on a set of terminals that was getting shorted when there was enough moisture in the air. Sure enough it was exactly that. At the end of the car's life I also had a problem where there was some slipping going on as you described and it did turn out to be the angle gear being worn out to the point that it occasionally slipped. The cost was more than I wanted to spend to repair. They told me I could keep driving and one of two things would happen, either I would end up with a stripped gear and it would become a front wheel drive car or it would seize. Hope you get the car running smoothly and can enjoy.
7:42 That smoke from behind the car is most likely caused by a leakage in your turbo the lets oil into the exhaust
I had this issue with one of my volvos and it turned out to be a plugged up oli drain from the turbo.
More than likely
That flooding might also be why your radio isn't working because if I remember correctly from when I owned an s60, the amp for the audio systems is under the driver seat.
Yep! I'll definitely be looking into the amp
Why did Volvo put these important electrical components down where they could easily get wet from wet carpeting?
I Purchased a Flash Green over Atacama V70 R just days after you bought yours Elliott. I’ve been chasing maintenance items and building up mine along side you. Lots of Swedish fun times!
I know its a dead bushing causing it but holy hell keep it broken. It sounds like a gated spaceball!
At one point I was really scared that you would get angry with the dealership and sell this monster. Wish you good luck and can't wait to see you fixing this treasure!
For the smoke issue - check out the inside of the valve cover. A broken plastic fin caused that issue on my A4.
Thanks for the tip!
Go to the Car Weeezard. I'll only ever take my car to independent shops if I can help it. Dealerships and chain repair shops charge too much for no reason because their techs usually aren't that master-tech. I had a chain shop (Firestone) diagnose the failed steering rack bushings as ball joints (the bushings were visibly bad, hard to miss), but I told the guy up front what was wrong and I had replaced the ball joints a year prior. I just wanted a price for them to replace them. The only reason to go to a dealer is if it's required for programming something that no one else can or is allowed to do. I doubt that's the case with this old Volvo.
If there is something amiss with the anti-skid....from my understanding, this disables the awd. My awd s60 had similar issue and was not too $$ to repair. My BMW X5 also had a similar issue and was the steering angle sensor.
I had a 12 yo Kia Carnival ( here in Australia). The ESP, radio, Cruise control and cold-start sensor all eventually closed down in a 12 month timespan. No one wanted to touch it so off to the wreckers it went. I hope you have better luck than me. I like Volvos , too.
Oh no, I'm sorry to hear that Richard. I hope this Volvo doesn't have the same fate!
Your buddy Hoovie knows a guy who's very thorough on inspections and diagnostics.
Ah yes, I've heard of this guy...
The smoke out of exhaust is a sign on a clogged PCV system, which is common on the 2.5T. Clogged PCV pushed the crankcase gases through other places like seals and you get oil smoke - that’s what I’m currently experience.
To confirm, you can do a Rubber Glove test - with a running car, open up your oil filler cap and put a blue glove over it. If it airs up, PCV is clogged. Not a cheap job, just a heads up. Good luck!
Thank you for the suggestion! I'll give that a try.
- the puff smoke is because of the PCV system clogged (positive crankcase ventilation). There are a lot of videos online on what and how to replace. Can be done in anywhere from 2-4h. Anyway, it's a must to replace when you get a used Volvo with no maintenance records, otherwise it will lead to more costly repairs.
- the ECU's can be reconditioned by a company called xemodex, they have pretty good service. Never had any luck in the past with just cleaning the contacts or connectors, (but you can try this first, of course). Usually water gets in the ECU's itself. Especially the CEM underneath the driver side dashboard. Also most ECU's on these Volvo's are paired with the car so not interchangeable with other vehicles if you are thinking of getting a salvaged one you would have to take it to a company like xemodex or a dealership to pair it to your VIN again (Vida cannot do that).
- The 4 wheel drive and suspension you will get good info from Dice/Vida on what's wrong with it. But that's gonna be pricy, the sensors or other cheaper parts don't usually fail, is mostly the suspension dampeners and the haldex unit and pump.
Really sorry about you dealership experience, try to avoid Volvo dealerships in the future. However, you will have an exceptional experience with the tight Volvo community, this is where you will get most of info and work done. You could find a lot of Volvo guys willing to do work such as timing replacement for even free or a fraction of what you would pay at a dealer.
Thanks for the detailed comment! I am hoping the smoke is from the PCV and not a turbo seal going. I sure was hoping to just clean the contacts on the computers and be good, but if thats not likely, that is disappointing, but like you said, I'll still try it first.
Tailgate struts is a 20min/side job.
well... actually for the first try, one side takes an hour, the OTHER side takes 20min.
Damn! I’m screwed. 🤦♀️ I have the V70 2.5 T version and my struts are out.
Very easy , did both 2 mos ago........ just make sure not to lose the tiny clips and make sure they go perfectly in the tiny holes...... annoying but easy.
He needs to have watchjrgo tonthe tail light trunk struts
I own a 2002 S80. I purchased a Gates water pump & timing belt kit for £90, and placed it on the car in under an hour, she's been running fine for the past 3 years :)
You have the best mechanic in the country in your backyard!!! Car Wizard time!
I think you're right Jess!
Great ! I also drive a V 70 (blue), paint came of the bonnet. What a fantastic car ! And I brought it to the dealer. What a bunch of tossers ! Learned to repair it myself. Resprayed the bonnet. Replaced the ECU and the TractionControl Module... Robert DIY Videos helped me tremendously !
I just took my MB to get a full inspection at MB $524. They wanted to bang me for a $6000 transfer case that needed a fluid change, and $3200 for front cv axles. OH and your brakes are low, 6 front and 5 rear. a bunch of services and tires(which i knew are due.) who would pay for service after $10,000 in repairs? I paid my bill and didnt even get brake/tire specs and several of my issues werent even addressed. I work at a chrysler dealer and i agree, stay away from the stealership unless you have a good working relationship with them.I was primarily after verification on a couple items that needed diaged with the mb computer, so I knew which way to go and they just wanted to bang me. I found a YT video of a guy with a similar t case issue that got the fluid good and warm and did the change. Low and behold it fixed the problem for $30. Not $6000 plus labor.
The CEM on these is up begind the dash. You'll need to have most of the scuttle panel out to access it too. The often suffer water ingress. DiCE is a good VCI to have, but you'll need a login for VIDA too. This requires a subscription and has to be registered through Volvo. It may be easier in the US due to your "tech service" rulings making access to diagnostics mandatory. Also, there's very little you can do beyond code reads and live data. Programming new modules or updating software is all done through software purchased at a dealer and sent to your VIDA account. You'll need a friendly dealer to do that.
$1600 for a timing belt job at a dealership isn't all that bad. Toyota wanted $2k to change the belt in my old Solara.
£280 pounds to change the belt in the Uk! About $350 in your money! You guys are been scammed to the limit.
He said it was $1226 total with the diagnostic fee.
I had an S60R that had nearly all the same issues as your V70R. I had a local independent shop do a bunch of work to that car, including a few of the computer modules, which they had sent off to a company I believe in Ontario, Canada, which was about half the price of new ones and came with a lifetime warranty. They also waterproofed the modules, as I believe that the sunroofs are in issue on these years of Volvo's. I managed to buy front struts on Rockauto for about 500 CAD each, but they went out of stock as fast as they came into stock.
I would ask the Wizzard to have a look and give you a list
I should do that!
Wizard 🧙♀️ time!!!!!!!!!
He could bring in The Bug Ninja to have a look at it. That guy knows everything Volvo.
Great idea!
@@ElliottAlvis maybe you could do a comparison between what the wizard finds and what the dealership found
Heya Elliot. I’m a parts manager at a Volvo dealership(not in the US). I could potentially help out with getting part numbers for some items you require. Happy to help in any way I can. Cheers
HE'S BACK
Where were you man!? We missed these videos..
Clogged sunroof drainplugs are a common issue with Volvo, they're burried in the pillars and they used connectors for tubes that are clog easily with minor dust or dirt. Sometimes they can be drilled out to allow for better flow. When it goes wrong water flows into the interior and settles at lowest points in footwell or under seat where the computers are located. Some models had class action lawsuit..
Oh wow, I’ll have to look into that. Thanks for the heads up Rick!
@@ElliottAlvis Those in the know are said to bring a 5 gallon bucket to pour water on roof when purchasing a used one. I've had 3 Volvo; 240 Wag, V70 XC and current 2010 XC60 and they've all had this issue. I keep em outside but still it doesnt take much... if you google you'll see the trail of Volvo sunroof tears..
Good luck with your spaceball!
That VIDA set up will save you a lot of headaches and save you a lot of diagnostic fees. That $100 “diagnostic fee” you payed for is just paying for a Volvo tech to plug in their VIDA and printing out what the car is telling them. They won’t actually spend time to diagnose problems. I can see the yaw sensor going bad it happens frequently. There’s tons of used good ones out there for sale. Plus it takes 20min to replace. BCM could be rebuilt by XEmodex if it really is bad. The oil burning is still very weird. Maybe turbo seals I’d check your intake pipes to see if there’s an excessive amount of oil in them. But this VR is still off to a better start then most projects I’ve seen! Hit us up on Instagram is you need help sourcing parts👍 God speed 🇸🇪👍
Awesome! Thank you for the suggestions, and for watching!
Ha! I did something similar on my third Mini R53. There was a recall on the power steering pump by Mini. I brought it in and Mini paid for a new power steering pump on a 16 year old car - a $1,500 service. While it was in there the dealer went through it at a Pre-Purchase inspection level inspection… for free. They provided my with a 21 page report of what the Mini needed which totaled $4,800 for a car I purchased for $825. I thanked them but declined the $4,800 repairs - including $75 to replace a bad bulb in my bumper. I fixed the top things myself or had my indy mechanic do. Sold the car the next month for $3,500. Rolled that profit into the next Mini… my final R53.
I did my timing belt water pump and tensioner on my s60 myself in about 3 hours for about 150 dollars in parts. Yes if you wondering it runs great with no check engine light.
Stealership is a good word. In my country you only go there when you're under warranty (and even then they can still mess something up or decline the repair) and after that you stay as far away as possible.
I feel for you. I took ownership of a lovely and lively V70R. Such a great car, but she was a hard mistress. It. Never. Ended. It was like a game of whack a mole. ECM, brake computer, struts, brakes, half shafts, turbo….everything BUT the angle gear, ironically.
And then the motor blew.
Sorry to hear that
This episode was definitely worth waiting for, Elliott Alves! Has anyone ever had a good dealership experience? They are okay when they have an oil change special, otherwise they are in business just to screw you over. Sales, Finance or Service, they suck!
You said it Mitchell! Thanks for your patience while I got this video out!
So glad to see another volvo lover in kansas, I'm just up on i-70 in Central kansas.
I have the same problem with my v70r radio. Its the contacts in de motherboard of the radio you nee to fix. It's a common issue with these older volvo cars. If you cant fix your suspension, buy the monroe suspension for the car. It's the same as the original but 30 to 50% cheaper. They are actually the fabricator of the original suspension btw.
First time seeing this channel I absolutely love these cars and have no clue why
I appreciate you checking the channel out! This car has really captured my heart!
There is a hydraulic pump on the rear end that has a habbit of going out. If/when this happens you loose the all wheel drive. It's a bit of a pain to replace but it is at home doable.
Also, still super jealous!!lol
Thanks for the suggestion Adam!
@@ElliottAlvis I have wanted a V70R ever since I found our they made a fast sport version of the wagon I have.
The amp for your radio is under the passenger seat. Bad sunroof drains will kill it with the quickness. The sunroof drains are just rubber hose running down the A-Pillars and are cut *just* long enough at the factory. So when heat shrinks them over time, they pop out of their drain nipples at the bottom and just dump water down the inside of the firewall.
I did the timing belt, waterpump and idler pulley myself with jackstands underneath the car in 2 days, this was including fishing out the exploded waterpump and replacing the radiator. Took them quite a long time to fix it....
Good to see you back! And I really think you should be in the next Car Trek too!
I'd definitely try the car wizard, because he'll also let you know whether certain items are rebuildable, and maybe tell you what you can do yourself.
And he'll be thorough on the need for service/ maintenance items after the long rest the car has had.
The Wizard rules!
VIDA SW & DICE can be helpful but many new, higher end scan tools can do more. When the sunroof drain (drivers side) gets plugged, water can drip on the CEM module beneath the dash causing all sorts of issues. If replacement is needed, Xemodex can take your old one and another (used) CEM and reprogram and unplug/replace relays/fuses, etc. and ship it back to you...back in business. Good luck! [owner of three 2004-2010 Volvo models...XC90 (P2), S60T (P2) and S80 T6 (P3)]
Growing up in the early 80s my Dads Volvo 264gle had a built in booster seat that I used for years...otherwise known as the center armrest. 😁
Your videos are getting better Elliot! The repair bill doesnt seem bad, I am in LA. Wonder if Ninja is willing to work on it. Thank you Euro-Asian Bob, we love you!
Replacing the lift gate struts is a DIY job. I'm getting ready to do mine (2004 V70 2.5T AWD). As you said, the hardest part is getting to them. Here's a how-to for a V70 : ruclips.net/video/xeIOXiJXBK0/видео.html
I'm pretty sure the trim pieces on the R come out the same way. Keep it up, liked subscribed.
EDIT: I avoid the Volvo dealer here in Atlanta like the plague. Got the device you have now and read the codes on my own. Also found a private garage with a guy who has over 30 years experience working on Volvo's. You need to find "that guy" in your city.
Was just about to write this. It's a fairly quick job and nothing to leave for the dealer (unless you want to throw away money) :)
Nice! He could totally do that himself.
Don't waste your money on getting a replacement factory radio. You can get a solid DD with Android Auto/Apple Car Play and a dash kit for about the same price that will do everything and more that the factory HU could do. If you really want to get the factory radio working the most cost effective option is you taking it out getting a factory radio harness and a 12v Power Supply and a volt meter but at the end of the day it's an almost 20 year old factory radio that sounded mediocre when it was new.
As far as the dealer taking your 150 diagnostics fee they pretty much looked at your early 2000s Volvo and decided they didn't want anything to do with it beyond what you were actually paying to fix. They don't really make money on repairing your old car. They want warranty work for new cars that's where the real billable hours are and while the customer doesn't pay for it Volvo does. So they will bill the shit out warranty work. Your car isn't valuable to them so they will either quote you a stupid high fee so you will leave of they will forget your number.
After owning an XC90 V8 for 6 years I will never own another Volvo. Dealers down here in Atlanta GA suck too. Luckily I did all of the work on it myself but my dad also has a XC90 and the dealerships have ran him through the ringer.
Sorry to hear that Rob!
If I were in striking distance of the Wizard I would just take it to him instead of a dealer. That puff of smoke when you let off is probably the valves.
The Wizard is the next place ill be taking this car, thats for sure lol
My "motary notary' your oil plums is a result of worn out exhaust valves stems..., and while you're at it, do the intake valve stems.... Love your content, keep rocking
I’ve done the yaw sensor on a xc90. I believe it’s behind the airbag in the steering wheel. Maybe in the column. It’s been a few years but it was not tooooo bad. Good luck. Love this ole wagon.
I got my 2004 V70's rear hatch gas shocks for $23 online, and it took about 45 minutes to replace them. There is a youtube video showing exactly how. it's easy. Just use a T25, to take out some screws, tug off the plastic interior trim, and then use a flat screw driver to remove the C clips holding the ends of the shocks to the ball mount.
If you’re able to get the modules removed and clean them, maybe you can try the cell phone trick and place them in bags of uncooked rice for a few days. Might get rid of some possible lingering moisture. It certainly can’t hurt! But yeah I think you’re on the right track with trying to clean the contacts. Great video!
Also, during the second “puff of smoke” shot, was that Hoovie in his ‘Vette that you were passing?
It sure was!
I just was at the Volvo dealership in my C30 because the steering lock kept getting stuck, they quoted me 1200 DOLLARS!!! The part itself is like 250 bucks MAXIMUM and I even took off the whole bottom portion of the dash already so all they had to do was unscrew like two screws and replace and program it lol
Holy crap!
If the active chassis says temporarily disabled (or something along those lines I'm not in my R to check) it is 9/10 a strut, wheel speed sensor, throttle position sensor or wiring and since you know the struts are blown it is most likely that. For anyone confused why it could be the throttle position sensor R's are throttle by wire and the pedal is supposed to adjust with the settings don't ask me why but if either something on the strut side or throttle side fails it shuts down both. Source I own an S60R and asked the only Volvo specialty in my state a bunch of questions to guide me in my repairs and that's what they told me. Also you totally could've done the belt by yourself, it is definitely a pain in the ass without the locking tool but I did the whole job by myself with 6 months experience as a lube tech and just had an old timer I trusted check it over before I turned it. It would've been much easier for you too because my car was a sitter I had absolutely no left over resistance from the oil pressure on the cams if I tugged the belt at all they would both spin lol.
for the radio, check the fuse for the head unit/amp. if it's fine, it's probably the amp
There are tons of Swedish RUclips channels that fix v70s. I have one of theses cars of my own. Solving the trunk is super easy, just pull the interior panels. The all wheel drive is only active when traction is missing on the front wheels, so it doesn’t have to be that bad. The dice module also requires a software vida. But maybe you got that as well.
Might contact John Ross' salvage parts dear and see if they have the wiper arms and some of the other parts. I imagine they would have a selection of Volvos in their large parts inventory.
That's not a bad idea!
Fantastic video of the Volvo. Looking forward to updates in the future, resolving the issues.
And yes, the Volvo dealership in Wichita is now a part of a family owned set of dealers who are to be avoided at all costs.
Same for me. The Volvo dealerships in germany are not different. Went to 4 of those, and all had a hard time diagnosing my 2005 V50 (and bad service).
After a long search i finaly found a local independent shop where they fixed all the problems i suspected with my car. They even read up on some Volvo specific procedures.
Glad I’m not alone, but I’m sorry you had issues as well. I might have to find a Volvo specialist or take it to the Wizard next!
good vid but gaaah that piano music in the intros kills me!!! makes me feel like im in some sophisticated elevator and i hate it lol
Just trying to keep it classy!
I'd drive that Malibu, if it ran right, good cars as long as they are taken care of.
Thanks for the video, Elliot.
I'd drive it too if it ran! I know they are good cars when they are working. lol
Wow, very similar to Hoovie's convertible 911 experience at that dealership group.
I agree with others re: Turbo shaft seal/pressure spikes/dips.
I'd also try to do the rear hatch struts yourself- I did them on my Saab 9-5 wagon while in high school. It wasn't too difficult, just pull the headliner trim, peel the headliner back, and have an assistant overextend the hatch while you replace the struts. Make sure to only do one at a time, though yours might be so dead they're past the point where that helps.
Great video Elliott! Nice to see an update on the Volvo
Thank you man! Theres a lot going on with this car lol 😅
About the stereo, the amplifier to that model hides under the passengerseat
And the passenger side is usually where you get water intrusion in these cars.
But the central speaker on the dash (I assume that he has one as it's probably blue or even yellow speaker sticker option - see Dolby unit) is powered by the unit itself, not by the amplifier and it should work regardless of the amplifier state.
One of the first things I got when I bought my '07 VR was a VIDA DICE setup. Even though my car was owned by a good buddy of mine (R.I.P. TK) and was maintained meticulously, it saved me big bucks the first time I had an issue with the car (FPS).
Worth the money.
Knows the Wizard, Bugninja, and JRGO... Goes to dealership to see what's wrong with the car... LOL! I'm always sitting around here wishing I knew and had those guys near me to help investigate issues, and I'm no where near them! You crack me up brother! Best of luck on getting the Volvo back to her prime.
Honestly the 1200 for the belt, water pump, and diagnostic at a dealer no less sounds like a really good deal
What a total joke of a dealer car inspection. They weren't even able to quote the back hatch struts. Hope you can continue to sort the V70R!
yes, if I paid $140 for a diagnostic evaluation, I would expect them to do the whole car and not just one or two items they can easily diagnose. I would be calling the service manager and telling him this is bullshit and you paid for the diagnostics for the whole car, not just one system. I'm sure Elliot gave them ideas on what all was wrong with it and they just blew it off. If the service manager didn't step up to fix it, I would then be calling the overall dealership manager. If that didn't work, I would be emailing Volvo itself to tell them what kind of dealership is selling and servicing their cars.
That dealership doesn't want to touch your ovlov, take it to the Wizard if he'll work on it, Rj in Oz
*Lolvo
Perhaps Elliott's dealership experience is a reason why someone like Adrian "the bug ninja" would no longer wish to work at a Volvo dealership, even though the man could talk a buyer into most anything. Too bad for Volvo.
Thanks for that. I loved the product, and selling it, but I am jaded on dealerships.
That puff of smoke is from bad valve stem seals.
When you release the throttle, the pistons suck oil through the gaps between the seals and valves.
Used to have an old 240GLT estate. Wish I still had it now.
She's going to be a hooptie for sure. Be well and stay safe. Thank you for your hard work in making these videos.
I haven't had one of these specifically, but I've owned and worked on a 2.4 5-cylinder Volvo. As far as I know the only computer inside the cabin is the CEM, all the other boxes are under the hood. I kinda doubt they all went bad at the same time. I don't think the car would even start with a bad BCM as the immobilizer would get mad.
The PCV system on this car is a pain in the butt. You need to clean it out or replace it. Intake valves not sealing properly will cause that plume of smoke you're experiencing, but I'd check for turbo issues first. Good luck with this car, I wish I could find one for a reasonable price but they're well over 10 grand in Sweden :(
Rear gas shocks is doable even without removing the headliner entirely. Limber fingers is a must though.
I actually work at a volvo dealership in norway, these cars are pretty rare but we see them sometimes and we always try our best to help our customers with their problems. So sorry to hear about your bad experience with a volvo dealership. If you need any help with your car and/or the dice and VIDA software, feel free to reach out and i will help you as best i can! I’m not an Expert myself but i’m learning as i go
Thanks for the offer! I really appreciate that.
Unfortunately the tech probably didn’t think it was worth the time to diagnose everything wrong with it. Couldn’t get it out of his bay fast enough. From my experience, most dealers don’t put much effort into diagnosing old cars because they assume the owner will decline the work and take the checklist to someone cheaper or forgo the repairs altogether. I could see that happening when he saw the wipers missing and the upper timing cover slung in the back seat.
Yeah, you’re probably correct. But that doesn’t mean they shouldn’t have at least quoted some stuff. Especially when I was so willing to do an expensive service without batting an eye.
@@ElliottAlvis Oh yeah I definitely agree with you. But unfortunately it sounds like you got stuck with the Friday afternoon crew.
I am a bit on the fence on the V70R. Being a Swede, we have V70's in enormous quantites - it was the most sold car in Sweden year after year after year after year... after year. And it is a comfy car. But to my taste, the R lost a bit too much of that comfy softness without ever being close to a true sports car (and nope, it's not about speed).
Yeah that’s a tough call. I think this one is still pretty comfortable, but I’m used to some pretty harsh riding cars.
The radio volume knob is busted. Its a rotary potentiometer. Same thing on my XC70. Its pretty common, and also happens to the fan speed switch. I just live with it, and use the steering wheel volume controls. To use the DICE, you need a dedicated Win 7 computer with the VIDA software. there are volvo forum members who sell them inexpensively. I have to say, I didn't like having to do that, but the software has everything you need for diagnosis, as well as all the service procedures. If you mess with ANY electronic module, disconnect the battery first. The CAN bus runs through ALL the electronic bits on these cars, so if you pull the HVAC panel or the radio for example, everything downstream gets screwed up, and you start experiencing all sorts of weird errors. Lastly, sounds like the dealership is firing the parts cannon. Its pretty common for the 4C struts to go, and they are costly, but the PCM and BCM? Nah. Do some electrical diagnosis and I bet you find some wiring problems (with, like, the actual wires). If there was water inside from the sunroof, that's likely.
i think this car has a radio amplifier under the passenger seat. it is possible it's fuse is blown or in case of water damage the amp is blown. The windscreen wipers is most likely the cem, but it can be the switch inside the wiper motor that senses the stopping point when not in use. the shocks are possible replaced with the cheap, not adjustable ones.
It is good to see the Motory Notary! Great video. Your experience is one of the reasons I absolutely abhor taking any of my cars to a dealer. Fortunately, you have some other great resources you can depend upon! How long did Tyler complain about being smoked out in his Corvette??
Can confirm. Since bought by the “problem” dealership group the Wichita Volvo dealer is pretty inept.
Here in California, for the same timing belt job but NO water pump or diagnostics, I was quoted $1120 before tax. With water pump $1675 before tax LOL. Ended up going to a good independent shop instead.