Boy, if this wasn’t the best video of ALL I’ve seen as far as assembling a rear diff I don’t know which is, because I’ve seen many even from guys with their podcasts here. You broke it down, pinion depth, crush vs non crush spacers, pre load, backlash and pattern. Great job man!!
Thanks! I hope you enjoy my new videos coming out! I have plans to build more axles, and I really want to do an updated and better video on this axle. Thanks for watching! 😎🚜💨
Thanks! I missed some things due to being new at filming when I did this video. I’ve got plans to make a new video on the subject when I get a new axle in the shop to build soon.
Hey AllieCat , just wanted to drop a note to thank you for producing this video , I was building an 8.2 10 bolt in my 1971 Chevelle { my first time ever taking on such a project ) Yukon dura grip Posi & 3.36 Yukon ring and pinion , I over crushed on my first try at setting pre-load {what a kick in the nuts } thankfully I found your video , I first thought it sounded to easy to be true , after watching you and listening to your testimony , I decided to order the shim kit from Quick Performance in Ohio , after only three or four tries I hit dead on 12 1/2 inch pounds { how simple & sweet it was } thanks again chuck ellis
You explain it so well. I, now only, after watching many videos, have the best understanding of crush vs solid sleeve. I'm so well informed, I'm going to make my own solid sleeve without the shimms. I'll take the dimensions of my crush sleeve, make it a coupla thousandths bigger and grind it untill it works. Just have to find a proper thickness pipe and take it from there. Bless your soul, brother.
@@AllieCatCustoms I ended up needing a case spreader. The left side shim would not go in and the shim driver I had was way too small. The Vevor Case Spreader got the job done. I was working on a M200. All original shims were used except the pinion shim had to be replaced as it was impossible not to damage it upon outter race removal.
I like to screw a couple long bolts into the bottom of the pumpkin so if I lose control of the carrier while I'm wrestling it in, it'll drop to the bolts instead of the floor. And a some plywood on the floor for added backup. Good vid!
I think I'm going to try to set my next one up. I'm in NO hurry, just crusin through some video's trying to learn as much as I can. Thanks, I learned some stuff, the shims are what's bothering me. I never head of a Crush Sleeve Eliminator....thanks again.
Excellent! Thanks! I’m doing just what you suggested, learn, read, watch videos. I’m contemplating replacing pinion bearings on my 2005 GMC Safari. Not sure right now if I’m going to tackle this job. Your videos help with my confidence level! Thanks again!
I've watched this video and about 30 others and the pinion spacer or crush sleeve is the only thing I am not really sure about. I just purchased posi and ring and pinion and install kit from Quick Performance, installing this weekend, thanks for giving me the courage to do this, you took a lot of time to put this video together! THX, Ed
When checking pinon bearing preload always do it with out the seal installed weather it’s a crush sleeve setup or eliminator one. A pinion seal typically adds .008-.010 of rotational drag.
Great video! i have done this about 10 times through the years and it never gets any easyer..this time i am going to try a crush sleeve eleminator..i wish you would have shown the whole prosess of how you got to the numbers for the shimes ..i am going to start from were my last crush sleeve sat..but i changed carrier and gears from 342 to 373..i am soooo nervious..i am glad i had your video to watch first..you gave me some great needed confidence
Great video. I just dished out $1800 for a shop to rebuild my rear end and I supplied the ring, pinion, and loaded carrier. The supplied the axles, bearings, races, and labor. Wish I had the skills to do these myself.
I did my own rear end a couple of years ago, it’s still holding up fine but I don’t really drive the truck much. I’m going to eventually do my z71. These gm trucks really wake up with the 4.10s and tune.
I am repairing my 10 bolt chevy..i enjoyed this video easy to understand ..very well explained..only question i had was how much play can be in the spider gears if youre not replacing them...great presentation thank you..👍😊
Great videos,would like to see how you went about setting up the pinion gear pre-load with the crush sleeve eliminator kit and finding out how many shims required.
I realized after I got done with the build, and started making the videos that the audio I had for the pinion depth, and crush sleeve portion of the build was horrific. my apologies. I will be building more axles in the future, and will touch back on this subject when I get a new axle to build.
LOL,, Messing with the pinion preload always makes everyone sweat!! 👍🏼 Nice work bro. I'm going to give this a try. A "Q tip" works good for the gear paint also..
I know im asking randomly but does anyone know of a method to log back into an instagram account?? I was dumb forgot the login password. I love any tips you can give me.
@Noe Terry thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out now. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
First time I did a rebuilt on a diff,different, broke three bolts off the ring gear,had no idea they were reverse thread,luckily I was putting a new ring gear with new bolts in the kit,so no harm done.
He explained it a bit in the previous video...but you probably already figured that within the year of your comment. So from what I understand, for his application here, in order to get 24 ft lbs of drag on the pinion, you have to have the right amount of shim thickness on the crush sleeve eliminator. And to figure that out is to just either use a pinion depth gauge to get it as close as possible or to assemble and install the pinion (excluding the seal) as a sort of trial and error on the thickness...adding and subtracting until the pinion drag is showing 24 ft lbs. I believe the manufacturer of the gears should have instructions to let you know just how much shim thickness you should have on the eliminator for any particular application so you could just one-shot it, but that remains to be seen.
@@xxdemonshitxx thank you. i put a new carrier in i kept the same pin and ring cause i was too scared to do the pin. i will have to do it this summer. however i think i will get a super mechanic friend to give me a and when i get to that part. lol. thank you
The only hard thing here is to set the crush sleeve or eliminator and that is the one that isn't explained. I'm at this step and following his suggestion I did buy the crush eliminator kit. It is a sleeve with shims. How do I know what the required thickness is ? The crush sleeve is a really weird way to set a distance but I guess that worked for a while. The shim kit seems better in some regards but how to do it ? He did have a separate video when he explained how it works, but never actually showed it. I guess I have to keep trying different thicknesses. Trouble is, he said it is a very small difference between a good and a bad setup. My entire diff failed due to the crush sleeve failure. It had 103k miles on it and the pinion starting dragging and making noises. A diff guy said the crush sleeve failed to keep the distance and the pinion started sagging slightly and soon the bearing started making a howling sound. So I need to be really careful as the whole job was caused by the failure of this part. I read that the old crush sleeve thickness is a good starting point. Torque it down and then take it apart and remove one shim and check. This is where the explanation could have came handy.
Old comment, but to help out any one else trying to figure it out, I start short. Measure the old crush sleeve you took out and start a few thou less with your shims. Torque to 125 ft pounds and check your preload. If it’s too loose you need to remove shims, too tight you need to add shims. I’ve never waited until the last step to figure this out either, you need preload on the pinion to set up the ring IMO.
Great video man! Quick question,i have a 7.5 10 bolt with a open carrier, stock 3:42, if I buy a original GM posi unit and use the original ring gear, do you think I could get away with just using the same shims on both sides with the original ring and pinion if i leave the pinion installed? I basically just want to put a GM Pozzi unit and leave the original 342 gears. Some people say it shouldn't be a problem and some people say I would probably have to play with shims, could I get away with just checking the wear pattern and backlash with the same shim packs on each side? The original rear end has low mileage and in great condition as of right now. I know it's a turd being a 7.5 but it will not be raced at a track, strictly street use. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks! Yes, you can change carriers, but you gotta check backlash and run a pattern. Check backlash and run a pattern before you swap, and make note of them, and do the same after you swap. If everything checks out, you should be good to go! You may have to make slight adjustments though, so keep that in mind! 😎🚜💨
Questions: How do you determine initial pinion bearing preload with spacer..do I measure what the original crush sleeve thickness was, then add shim's to the new spacer, torque to 130 ft/lb and then check for recommended rotational torque? What is the rotational torque value with spacer( not crush sleeve) for GM 10 bolt 8.625? I'm not clear on procedure Thanks much!
You can use the crush sleeve as a guide for initial setup on the eliminator. I’d error on the side of slightly thicker spacer though. You want to sneak up on the preload vs going to far. I’m actually gearing up right now to make a video on this subject, and hopefully have it posted in the next month or so!
Good video. I just wanted to see how these carrier shims were. I’m about to regear the old gmc and was hoping it was gunna have the same setup as a 14 bolt but damn the luck. Pattern looked a little too shallow to me.
When pressing bearings or races into a housing, put the bearings, and or race into the freezer for a few hours. Metal contracts when cold, extreme cold makes metal contract even more. Work on bearing seals too.
Tip if I may....when looking for something to press bearing onto pinion and can't find a pipe the right size and lenght, cut the cage off of old pinion bearing and remove bearings. This leaves the inner part of bearing. Use this to press on the new bearing.
is there a deference in the preload of the pinion with the seal and without the seal. seems like if I set the right preload on the pinion to 24 without the seal, when i install the seal it has more resistance.
You will definitely feel a bit more resistance with the seal. As long as you are within spec with the seal removed you will be good… if you are using a crush sleeve, you will be setting final preload with the seal installed, so just factor in the slight added resistance the seal will give. Also lubing the seal will help reduce the resistance.
Very true study watch videos mine was going smooth until went to put the axles back in the Kaydet O’Reillys gave me a bearing that was not right could not figure out for a day what was going wrong why the axle wouldn’t go in felt like a clown but your video is very very good
have you ever worked on a Nissan Titan rear end, my rear Diff is pouched and I have to find the entire axle cuz they say you cant rebuild them. I need a 3.357 gear ratio I guess its like made of gold seen as how the cheapest USED one I found was $1500 with more miles than the one I need replaced. new one cost 2400 at the dealership and the used one was in Texas. I live in WV
titans came with a dana 44 , their is an upgrade you can do to that truck , you can do a Detroi trutrac and ither leave the same gears or upgrade to 3.69 gear ratio, i do those trucks for about $1700.00 dl and youll never have to replace it again , detroi trutrac is bullet proff
Awesome video. I was replacing the differential seal on my 99 Trans Am and the preload just didn't come back to where it was supposed to be. I was recommended to replace the crush sleeve and use a crush sleeve eliminator kit instead to avoid overcrushing it and making the job a bigger headache. Could you provide some tips for a beginner trying to knock out this job. I am very nervous about it. I got several doubts I hope you can remedy. How does the car need to be to measure the preload? Tires off? Is the preload measured with the ring removed? I need some answers to get a better understanding and I would greatly appreciate tips. Thanks!
I got a 01 Sierra 1500 and I can’t get the center pin out it’s hitting in the ring gear and can’t figure out how it’s supposed to come out so I can get the c clips out. Any help
Great video bud will be my first time have all took minus 1/2 inch torque wrench. Do have 3/8 one, though just depends on specs. are all tolerances torque specs included with posi or locker etc...
Good morning, how are you doing? Sorry for my english, i'm french. Ihave a video where you are rebuilding an 8.5 gm differential. I buy a kit like you for the pinion. I would like to know how do you determine the number of rings in addition to the wedge? thank you Crush sleeve eliminator kit for GM 8.5"
The crush sleeve eliminator is set up after you get the correct pattern on your gears. You take the ring gear out, and then add or remove shims until you get the proper amount of rotational drag on the bearings.
Good evening, I have an 89 gmc c1500, with a 3.8 rear end. Had mine done twice, I'm still hearing noise coming from it. Have called around, No one wants to work on it. Can you help me, please.
Thank you for your video. Would you be able to guide me with this issue I'm having. I have a 05 chevy tahoe, 3.42 gears. GU6,G80. lately when I turn in either direction at a slow speeds, my rear wheels start to lock up and drag as if I was braking but I'm not. I am also starting to hear a growl when coming to slow stop. Any idea on what can be causing this issue and how to remedy. It's my daily driver and need it back on the road. I am also running 37" tires. Your input or advice will be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Sometimes when the gov-loc fails, it will jam up tight, and mimic how a spool would act when turning, not allowing the tires to turn at different speeds. I’d definitely pull the cover and inspect the diff to see if anything looks bad.
@@AllieCatCustoms thank you for your input. I found my issue. Complete inner carrier destruction!! It looks like it began with one of the clutch pack retainers coming loose and off completely from a spider gear. I suspect this was causing the lock up when I turn. Making the spider gear come of its axis, eventually causing it to break off one of its teeth. I'm guessing the vibration inside was so great that the carrier actually shift enough for the pinion gear to score the casing and crack it. When I pull off the diff cover I can see the casing had teeth Mark's and it was cracked. When I finally was able to pull off the entire case it literally broke in half in my hands. Gears, clutches everything open up. Luckily the pinion gear and the ring gear were speared. No damage whatsoever on them. Specially on that pinion gear. Truck is back on the road doing just fine. This week I'll be replacing the front differential. 😩👍
Is there a trick to putting in the differential, for I already tried to many occasions. Also when I took off my pinon nut it did not have more than 80 lbs. It ran for 2500 problem bfree? I have told to torque my nut on my 7.5 gm 10 bolt on an 82 Camaro to 150 lbs?? But I cannot get past 80 or the tires move?
Boy, if this wasn’t the best video of ALL I’ve seen as far as assembling a rear diff I don’t know which is, because I’ve seen many even from guys with their podcasts here.
You broke it down, pinion depth, crush vs non crush spacers, pre load, backlash and pattern. Great job man!!
I like where you teach their man I understood it all
Thanks! I hope you enjoy my new videos coming out! I have plans to build more axles, and I really want to do an updated and better video on this axle. Thanks for watching! 😎🚜💨
This man is awesome at teaching and explanation. He hots every thought i had dead on. 👏 🙌
Thanks! I missed some things due to being new at filming when I did this video. I’ve got plans to make a new video on the subject when I get a new axle in the shop to build soon.
Hey AllieCat , just wanted to drop a note to thank you for producing this video , I was building an 8.2 10 bolt in my 1971 Chevelle { my first time ever taking on such a project ) Yukon dura grip Posi & 3.36 Yukon ring and pinion , I over crushed on my first try at setting pre-load {what a kick in the nuts } thankfully I found your video , I first thought it sounded to easy to be true , after watching you and listening to your testimony , I decided to order the shim kit from Quick Performance in Ohio , after only three or four tries I hit dead on 12 1/2 inch pounds { how simple & sweet it was } thanks again chuck ellis
You explain it so well. I, now only, after watching many videos, have the best understanding of crush vs solid sleeve. I'm so well informed, I'm going to make my own solid sleeve without the shimms. I'll take the dimensions of my crush sleeve, make it a coupla thousandths bigger and grind it untill it works. Just have to find a proper thickness pipe and take it from there. Bless your soul, brother.
7:51 that carrier shim tip is exactly what I hoped this video would have that no other video I’ve seen has mentioned. Needed that, thanks.
😎🚜💨
@@AllieCatCustoms I ended up needing a case spreader. The left side shim would not go in and the shim driver I had was way too small. The Vevor Case Spreader got the job done. I was working on a M200.
All original shims were used except the pinion shim had to be replaced as it was impossible not to damage it upon outter race removal.
Best video anywhere I've seen so far thanks for explaining this.
I like to screw a couple long bolts into the bottom of the pumpkin so if I lose control of the carrier while I'm wrestling it in, it'll drop to the bolts instead of the floor. And a some plywood on the floor for added backup. Good vid!
Dude! You're Awesome! Thank You Very Much for ALL the info. Totally Helpful!!
😎🚜💨
I think I'm going to try to set my next one up. I'm in NO hurry, just crusin through some video's trying to learn as much as I can. Thanks, I learned some stuff, the shims are what's bothering me. I never head of a Crush Sleeve Eliminator....thanks again.
Yep. This is the guy you need to be watching. Great video brother
Excellent! Thanks! I’m doing just what you suggested, learn, read, watch videos. I’m contemplating replacing pinion bearings on my 2005 GMC Safari. Not sure right now if I’m going to tackle this job. Your videos help with my confidence level! Thanks again!
Do u ever replace them.
I've watched this video and about 30 others and the pinion spacer or crush sleeve is the only thing I am not really sure about. I just purchased posi and ring and pinion and install kit from Quick Performance, installing this weekend, thanks for giving me the courage to do this, you took a lot of time to put this video together! THX, Ed
When checking pinon bearing preload always do it with out the seal installed weather it’s a crush sleeve setup or eliminator one. A pinion seal typically adds .008-.010 of rotational drag.
man wish you lived close.. Great to know these things. I have so many projects going on i never think about to video them.
Lighting under there looks great with that led bar!
Great video! i have done this about 10 times through the years and it never gets any easyer..this time i am going to try a crush sleeve eleminator..i wish you would have shown the whole prosess of how you got to the numbers for the shimes ..i am going to start from were my last crush sleeve sat..but i changed carrier and gears from 342 to 373..i am soooo nervious..i am glad i had your video to watch first..you gave me some great needed confidence
Thanks for the info i didn't know there was this product out there on the market to replace the crush sleeve , now i can replace it on my truck .
Really great detailed video of gears and setting it all up. Thanks for this
Wish we had knowledgable people like you here in NY.
Very good explanations.... Good job all around........saved me some Money going to the shop...thnx Brother
Great video. I just dished out $1800 for a shop to rebuild my rear end and I supplied the ring, pinion, and loaded carrier. The supplied the axles, bearings, races, and labor. Wish I had the skills to do these myself.
Man you saved my life with this video thank you!
Now that's the kind of guy I want doing my work. And noticed how clean his shop is the last thing you want in a new set of bearings is a piece of dirt
Pinion depth and eliminator kit. Thanks bro keep on keeping on
Your a great instructor!
Great video. Easy to understand. And i liked the crush sleeve eliminator. Thanks.
Great video, very informative. Not many guys know how to set up a rear end properly.
Swap shims to adjust pattern
Overall good job
Nice job...Your custom brush takes it all...
Black Kane Hahahaha I looked in my toolbox the other day and saw that brush in there, and started laughing
Thanks a lot man I reference your videos all the time
Awesome! I’m so happy I can help!
😎🚜💨
Listen here boss I cant tell u how much you helped me out !. Thank you 👍
THX for sharing your immense knowledge, never did one but u give me the courage to give it a shot, Ed
I did my own rear end a couple of years ago, it’s still holding up fine but I don’t really drive the truck much. I’m going to eventually do my z71. These gm trucks really wake up with the 4.10s and tune.
Really appreciate the explanations to us novices
Wow, video very good explanations and voice is perfect for
Instructing, you would make a good instructor at trade school!
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I am repairing my 10 bolt chevy..i enjoyed this video easy to understand ..very well explained..only question i had was how much play can be in the spider gears if youre not replacing them...great presentation thank you..👍😊
Great video just got a 99' suburban and needed to change my rear diff appreciate this.
Great video! Really well put together and explained.
Hey there, thanks for making me feel that I could rebuild my 10 bolt 8 1/2 Chevy. Question, how do I know that I should change the ring and pinion.
Nice job on the video! Nice job on the installation. Keep it up.
Good show bud. Fantastic description and great tidbits of advice, Thank you 👍🏼
Great videos,would like to see how you went about setting up the pinion gear pre-load with the crush sleeve eliminator kit and finding out how many shims required.
I realized after I got done with the build, and started making the videos that the audio I had for the pinion depth, and crush sleeve portion of the build was horrific. my apologies. I will be building more axles in the future, and will touch back on this subject when I get a new axle to build.
LOL,, Messing with the pinion preload always makes everyone sweat!! 👍🏼 Nice work bro. I'm going to give this a try. A "Q tip" works good for the gear paint also..
I know im asking randomly but does anyone know of a method to log back into an instagram account??
I was dumb forgot the login password. I love any tips you can give me.
@Johnny Abdullah Instablaster :)
@Noe Terry thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out now.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Noe Terry It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my ass :D
@Johnny Abdullah You are welcome =)
Would have like to seen how many times it took to get the shims right
Good video thx
Excellent video. Thanks brother 👍
Would have liked to seen how you figured out the shims for the carrier.
Great vid 🏆🏆🏆
Thanks! Hope you subscribed because I’m making a new build series on one! 😎🚜💨
Very informative video great job thanks
What did you torque t
he cap bearings at I know you did the pinion gear at 1:30
I torqued the carrier cap bolts to 60ft-lbs.
Awesome very very informational
Thanks for the information.
First time I did a rebuilt on a diff,different, broke three bolts off the ring gear,had no idea they were reverse thread,luckily I was putting a new ring gear with new bolts in the kit,so no harm done.
I broke one off my first time! Lol. I was 16 at the time and had no idea, but I’m glad I was junking them gears anyway haha, lesson learned!
Cheers Bro. TY
why wouldent you do a small part of the video regarding the adjustment of the pinion? :(
Agreed. Set up of the pinion gear shims would be helpful.
He explained it a bit in the previous video...but you probably already figured that within the year of your comment. So from what I understand, for his application here, in order to get 24 ft lbs of drag on the pinion, you have to have the right amount of shim thickness on the crush sleeve eliminator. And to figure that out is to just either use a pinion depth gauge to get it as close as possible or to assemble and install the pinion (excluding the seal) as a sort of trial and error on the thickness...adding and subtracting until the pinion drag is showing 24 ft lbs. I believe the manufacturer of the gears should have instructions to let you know just how much shim thickness you should have on the eliminator for any particular application so you could just one-shot it, but that remains to be seen.
@@xxdemonshitxx thank you. i put a new carrier in i kept the same pin and ring cause i was too scared to do the pin. i will have to do it this summer. however i think i will get a super mechanic friend to give me a and when i get to that part. lol. thank you
@@ericm7994 I think the hardest part about doing the gears is actually having all of the tools to do it properly.
The only hard thing here is to set the crush sleeve or eliminator and that is the one that isn't explained. I'm at this step and following his suggestion I did buy the crush eliminator kit. It is a sleeve with shims. How do I know what the required thickness is ? The crush sleeve is a really weird way to set a distance but I guess that worked for a while. The shim kit seems better in some regards but how to do it ? He did have a separate video when he explained how it works, but never actually showed it. I guess I have to keep trying different thicknesses. Trouble is, he said it is a very small difference between a good and a bad setup. My entire diff failed due to the crush sleeve failure. It had 103k miles on it and the pinion starting dragging and making noises. A diff guy said the crush sleeve failed to keep the distance and the pinion started sagging slightly and soon the bearing started making a howling sound. So I need to be really careful as the whole job was caused by the failure of this part. I read that the old crush sleeve thickness is a good starting point. Torque it down and then take it apart and remove one shim and check. This is where the explanation could have came handy.
Old comment, but to help out any one else trying to figure it out, I start short. Measure the old crush sleeve you took out and start a few thou less with your shims. Torque to 125 ft pounds and check your preload. If it’s too loose you need to remove shims, too tight you need to add shims. I’ve never waited until the last step to figure this out either, you need preload on the pinion to set up the ring IMO.
Great video man! Quick question,i have a 7.5 10 bolt with a open carrier, stock 3:42, if I buy a original GM posi unit and use the original ring gear, do you think I could get away with just using the same shims on both sides with the original ring and pinion if i leave the pinion installed? I basically just want to put a GM Pozzi unit and leave the original 342 gears. Some people say it shouldn't be a problem and some people say I would probably have to play with shims, could I get away with just checking the wear pattern and backlash with the same shim packs on each side? The original rear end has low mileage and in great condition as of right now. I know it's a turd being a 7.5 but it will not be raced at a track, strictly street use. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks! Yes, you can change carriers, but you gotta check backlash and run a pattern. Check backlash and run a pattern before you swap, and make note of them, and do the same after you swap. If everything checks out, you should be good to go! You may have to make slight adjustments though, so keep that in mind! 😎🚜💨
Thanks man! Appreciate the fast response! Keep up the good work my friend
Questions:
How do you determine initial pinion bearing preload with spacer..do I measure what the original crush sleeve thickness was, then add shim's to the new spacer, torque to 130 ft/lb and then check for recommended rotational torque?
What is the rotational torque value with spacer( not crush sleeve) for GM 10 bolt 8.625?
I'm not clear on procedure
Thanks much!
Typo.. GM 7.625
You can use the crush sleeve as a guide for initial setup on the eliminator. I’d error on the side of slightly thicker spacer though. You want to sneak up on the preload vs going to far. I’m actually gearing up right now to make a video on this subject, and hopefully have it posted in the next month or so!
Great video! Thank You
How do i rent the right pullers and seaters for chevy short box 91 4x4
Amazing video
Good video. I just wanted to see how these carrier shims were. I’m about to regear the old gmc and was hoping it was gunna have the same setup as a 14 bolt but damn the luck. Pattern looked a little too shallow to me.
How about u do one on the posi units.
Grate Video.. Thank you !!
considering putting a GM Posi in my 78 K10 suburban with GM 10 bolt axles. thanks, this helps.
I have a 78 k10 as well, lemme know how that goes for ya👍
I'm I missing something..is there a video of how to set the backlash, pinion depth and gear pattern?
When pressing bearings or races into a housing, put the bearings, and or race into the freezer for a few hours. Metal contracts when cold, extreme cold makes metal contract even more. Work on bearing seals too.
Tip if I may....when looking for something to press bearing onto pinion and can't find a pipe the right size and lenght, cut the cage off of old pinion bearing and remove bearings. This leaves the inner part of bearing. Use this to press on the new bearing.
Need to tell us what u torqued the caps to.
is there a deference in the preload of the pinion with the seal and without the seal. seems like if I set the right preload on the pinion to 24 without the seal, when i install the seal it has more resistance.
You will definitely feel a bit more resistance with the seal. As long as you are within spec with the seal removed you will be good… if you are using a crush sleeve, you will be setting final preload with the seal installed, so just factor in the slight added resistance the seal will give. Also lubing the seal will help reduce the resistance.
Excellent instruction video!!
Very true study watch videos mine was going smooth until went to put the axles back in the Kaydet O’Reillys gave me a bearing that was not right could not figure out for a day what was going wrong why the axle wouldn’t go in felt like a clown but your video is very very good
The wife actually figured it out I was throwing away the boxes the bearings came in when I remembered there was two different boxes with the bearings
have you ever worked on a Nissan Titan rear end, my rear Diff is pouched and I have to find the entire axle cuz they say you cant rebuild them. I need a 3.357 gear ratio I guess its like made of gold seen as how the cheapest USED one I found was $1500 with more miles than the one I need replaced. new one cost 2400 at the dealership and the used one was in Texas. I live in WV
titans came with a dana 44 , their is an upgrade you can do to that truck , you can do a Detroi trutrac and ither leave the same gears or upgrade to 3.69 gear ratio, i do those trucks for about $1700.00 dl and youll never have to replace it again , detroi trutrac is bullet proff
Hey Allie, cat buddy, I’m putting a new pinion seal and the yoke do you have any information on torque specs? 2007 Chevy Tahoe
Great vid !! How come I have to pound the outer pinion bearing to slide in the shaft on my 10 bolt GM and yours just slides in ??
On average, If you dont mind...How much does something like this cost to do at a shop. Just a rough estimate?
Awesome video. I was replacing the differential seal on my 99 Trans Am and the preload just didn't come back to where it was supposed to be. I was recommended to replace the crush sleeve and use a crush sleeve eliminator kit instead to avoid overcrushing it and making the job a bigger headache. Could you provide some tips for a beginner trying to knock out this job. I am very nervous about it. I got several doubts I hope you can remedy. How does the car need to be to measure the preload? Tires off? Is the preload measured with the ring removed? I need some answers to get a better understanding and I would greatly appreciate tips. Thanks!
Excellent video !
I got a 01 Sierra 1500 and I can’t get the center pin out it’s hitting in the ring gear and can’t figure out how it’s supposed to come out so I can get the c clips out. Any help
That diff is cleaner inside than my dinner plates
What kind of gearlube did you use?
Ha thanks! Brake clean works wonders cleaning the differential up!
Just regular 80/90
How many shims does each journal have
Do you know if the ring and pinion from rear 10 bolt with work with front?
Great video bud will be my first time have all took minus 1/2 inch torque wrench. Do have 3/8 one, though just depends on specs. are all tolerances torque specs included with posi or locker etc...
Good morning, how are you doing?
Sorry for my english, i'm french.
Ihave a video where you are rebuilding an 8.5 gm differential.
I buy a kit like you for the pinion.
I would like to know how do you determine the number of rings in addition to the wedge? thank you
Crush sleeve eliminator kit for GM 8.5"
The crush sleeve eliminator is set up after you get the correct pattern on your gears. You take the ring gear out, and then add or remove shims until you get the proper amount of rotational drag on the bearings.
Excellent video
Good afternoon, excuse me, I have a question. I have a c10 85. They replaced the pinion seal, but it keeps leaking oil, which could be the problem.
Are you close to ga ? Lol I’ll pay for you to do mine I need to go to 4:10s bad
Good information,succes
Really good video
Good evening, I have an 89 gmc c1500, with a 3.8 rear end. Had mine done twice, I'm still hearing noise coming from it. Have called around, No one wants to work on it. Can you help me, please.
How many shims did you put on the pinion??
Thank you for your video. Would you be able to guide me with this issue I'm having. I have a 05 chevy tahoe, 3.42 gears. GU6,G80. lately when I turn in either direction at a slow speeds, my rear wheels start to lock up and drag as if I was braking but I'm not. I am also starting to hear a growl when coming to slow stop. Any idea on what can be causing this issue and how to remedy. It's my daily driver and need it back on the road. I am also running 37" tires. Your input or advice will be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Sometimes when the gov-loc fails, it will jam up tight, and mimic how a spool would act when turning, not allowing the tires to turn at different speeds. I’d definitely pull the cover and inspect the diff to see if anything looks bad.
@@AllieCatCustoms thank you for your input. I found my issue. Complete inner carrier destruction!! It looks like it began with one of the clutch pack retainers coming loose and off completely from a spider gear. I suspect this was causing the lock up when I turn. Making the spider gear come of its axis, eventually causing it to break off one of its teeth. I'm guessing the vibration inside was so great that the carrier actually shift enough for the pinion gear to score the casing and crack it. When I pull off the diff cover I can see the casing had teeth Mark's and it was cracked. When I finally was able to pull off the entire case it literally broke in half in my hands. Gears, clutches everything open up. Luckily the pinion gear and the ring gear were speared. No damage whatsoever on them. Specially on that pinion gear. Truck is back on the road doing just fine. This week I'll be replacing the front differential. 😩👍
Good job !
Good video man.
Is there a trick to putting in the differential, for I already tried to many occasions. Also when I took off my pinon nut it did not have more than 80 lbs. It ran for 2500 problem bfree? I have told to torque my nut on my 7.5 gm 10 bolt on an 82 Camaro to 150 lbs?? But I cannot get past 80 or the tires move?
What do u mean by break-in?
How can you identity an 8.5 rear and the history of it?
Do you have a video how to replace clutch plates on a posi GM rear end ?
did I miss how much was the torque on the pinion nut?
I set it to 140lbs-ft since I’m running a crush sleeve eliminator