Hey brother Airman! Thank you for your service! Axles locked in an rigid in my opinion. If the axles are jiggly in the vertical axis, they most certainly have some play in the yaw axis preventing the car from rolling straight. But that brings to mind how a skate board works in the turn, wouldn't freely adjusting axles help a car navigate turns better? I'll stick to what I like, straight downhill derby racing! You can have all that science!
Hey there Bill! Over time many builders have varying opinions on fixing and free floating axles. I can only work things out from a far. In drag racing, for me, I fix the axles. My understanding is the top drag builders, fix their axles. In the beginning until recently I 100% used jb weld. Great stuff, if applied correctly, axles will stay in place. BUT if you did not get your wheels straight in your jig, or need to work on, or replace.......You end up damaging the mid part of the axle, and have to be careful not to bend it as well. Though the axles may, still be able to be salvaged. So probably since the beginning of the year I have been trying E6000. Though one has to be very careful with techniques using it, as it trails fine webs of glue as you move around, and can get on wheels, etc. I know has happened to me. Surfaces have to be scruffed up and clean. Not used over painted surfaces. (I speed cure by putting in oven at 50 degree C ) Ithe glue can self level so have to be careful how much you use and where. But if you need to change an axle,you can get it off without any damage. Now for Open track and bespoke racing... One has to analyse every track and experiment as to whether having free axles and or suspension may make a positive difference. I think at a track like GTR for instance, I think, in certain parts of the track it does. In my head fixed axles at some points are like a locked diff, and could drive one up and off the embankments where I think free axles may self adjust/provide that bit of give needed for the best line. Ha, all just guesswork and trying things! Cheers Marc D
Thanks. Chris Hood reminded me that when the interior is installed, the axles will be held down better. Yes, many things go into this decision. But if no interior then oh no, too sloppy.
Remember, for the times you include enough of the original interior, those "axle holder upper-uppers" will reduce some of that "play" that's got you concerned. In any stock casting you get less axle movement with the car fully assembled, and more movement without the assistance of that interior piece. If the build cannot include that piece, all the stability then comes from how you cement the axle in place and how accurately it's aligned. For cementing, folks appear to go with JB product if they never expect to use those axles again, or E6000 if they do. I'm hearing the E6000 comes off easier and more cleanly, but I'll let actual builders weigh in on that. If the soldering iron is there to melt off the single retaining hook, I would figure you would prefer the precision of flush cutters instead
Thanks again. NO, not melting that 3rd finger off, just soften it enough to POP out the axle. Yes, you are correct again. Let me put the interior in to fully observe the end result. HAA, axle holder upper uppers. Also, using the E6000. Just make sure I give myself time for it to cure.
boop...😂
Hey brother Airman! Thank you for your service! Axles locked in an rigid in my opinion. If the axles are jiggly in the vertical axis, they most certainly have some play in the yaw axis preventing the car from rolling straight. But that brings to mind how a skate board works in the turn, wouldn't freely adjusting axles help a car navigate turns better? I'll stick to what I like, straight downhill derby racing! You can have all that science!
Thanks. Chris Hood reminded after installing the interior, that would quell the movement a lot. I forgot about that.
Hey there Bill!
Over time many builders have varying opinions on fixing and free floating axles.
I can only work things out from a far.
In drag racing, for me, I fix the axles. My understanding is the top drag builders, fix their axles.
In the beginning until recently I 100% used jb weld. Great stuff, if applied correctly, axles will stay in place. BUT if you did not get your wheels straight in your jig, or need to work on, or replace.......You end up damaging the mid part of the axle, and have to be careful not to bend it as well. Though the axles may, still be able to be salvaged. So probably since the beginning of the year I have been trying E6000. Though one has to be very careful with techniques using it, as it trails fine webs of glue as you move around, and can get on wheels, etc. I know has happened to me. Surfaces have to be scruffed up and clean. Not used over painted surfaces. (I speed cure by putting in oven at 50 degree C )
Ithe glue can self level so have to be careful how much you use and where. But if you need to change an axle,you can get it off without any damage.
Now for Open track and bespoke racing... One has to analyse every track and experiment as to whether having free axles and or suspension may make a positive difference. I think at a track like GTR for instance, I think, in certain parts of the track it does. In my head fixed axles at some points are like a locked diff, and could drive one up and off the embankments where I think free axles may self adjust/provide that bit of give needed for the best line. Ha, all just guesswork and trying things!
Cheers Marc D
Thanks. Chris Hood reminded me that when the interior is installed, the axles will be held down better. Yes, many things go into this decision. But if no interior then oh no, too sloppy.
Remember, for the times you include enough of the original interior, those "axle holder upper-uppers" will reduce some of that "play" that's got you concerned. In any stock casting you get less axle movement with the car fully assembled, and more movement without the assistance of that interior piece. If the build cannot include that piece, all the stability then comes from how you cement the axle in place and how accurately it's aligned.
For cementing, folks appear to go with JB product if they never expect to use those axles again, or E6000 if they do. I'm hearing the E6000 comes off easier and more cleanly, but I'll let actual builders weigh in on that.
If the soldering iron is there to melt off the single retaining hook, I would figure you would prefer the precision of flush cutters instead
Thanks again. NO, not melting that 3rd finger off, just soften it enough to POP out the axle. Yes, you are correct again. Let me put the interior in to fully observe the end result. HAA, axle holder upper uppers. Also, using the E6000. Just make sure I give myself time for it to cure.