When comparing his old videos with his newer ones the camera quality and quality of information is the same but you can tell how different his energy is. With his older videos he is seldom and serious but with his newer videos he is very enthusiastic and entertaining.
i can't thank you enough for the way you keep things simple and not have to hear yourself over talk. I recently watch a video for a 3 minute fix that was 14 minutes long. to much blah blah blah(which seems to be the norm). Obviously, your vids are not for the completely inexperienced, but for most of diy, perfect. Thanks again and keep up the good work
I like that he doesn't spend the first 10 minutes of every video lecturing the audience before showing us anything and that he actually shows how to do it with mostly basic hand tools to prove that it can be done when so many videos go right to the impact wrench assuming that everyone has one. I love my air tools and they were a great investment but not everyone can afford a set nor can they be used in every situation.
I gotta tell you Chris, I love your videos. I love how you explain things. You are among the top 3 people I enjoy listen to here on youtube. You're a good man Chris.
Chris Fix you are awesome dude, you give a person the knowledge that they can do it themselves with a little discipline I really do appreciate all the videos you do for everyone. thanks again
Chris, you and realfixesrealfast are the only one's I've seen work on windstars, which is what my wife drives. I now have a clear understanding and confidence that I can do some of the work myself, AND I'M NOT EVEN A MECHANIC!!!! Thanks so much for putting in the time to show great instructional videos for guys like me. Keep up the great work! Take care.
moneygeewtee Thanks a lot man! I am glad my videos have helped! That windstar has 300k miles on her so you know it is being maintained lol. I will have a new video soon on how to replace the rear window defroster switch and also how to diagnose what is bad. New automotive 'how to' videos every Thursday and most Mondays so stay tuned!
Fantastic, you have a gift for demystifying this stuff mate. So many times I've read things like '"Oh, just remove the motor mount and drop the engine down" - but if you don't even know what a motor mount looks like to begin with you can start descending down a never ending rabbit hole and forget what problem you were originally trying to solve lol :-) I love that you don't just show how to replace a mount - but WHY you might need to as well and what could happen if you don't. It's important information often missed by others. Money was tight growing up with just my mother and we only ever took our car to the mechanic when it was broken. I thought 'maintenance' was an oil change once a year. Best wishes from New Zealand, 2021.
I will probably never do this in my life but I really enjoy this video and your other videos. You are very knowledgeable and talented both as teacher and cameraman. Very interesting to watch! Thanks!
Thank you, the wrench trick is something I never knew about before. I’ve gotten by on tapping the wrench with a hammer, but often there’s barely any room to do that. Going to double up on wrenches from now on.
I like these instructional videos. I do have some doubts about when you say if you can change one, you can change them all. I do think certain vehicles have differences that can make them substantially more difficult.
Chris Fix your video was very helpful. Going in I didn't have a clue as to the complications I would be facing as a DIY job. You showed very clearly what has to be done and now I need to decide 1) let a mechanic do it and pay through my schnoz or 2) do it myself. Thanks again, Al
Love that you torque everything and you don't drive in all your nuts and bolts with an impact wrench. Those things save time but they put too much pressure on the nuts and bolts.
If you over-torque them then yeah, that's why I specifically bought an impact wrench with multiple settings so that I could use it to remove bolts and drive them back in but drive in just enough that the torque wrench is used to finish the job. I've also found that I've less likely to break the head off a bolt with the impact wrench than with a breaker bar, never broken one with the impact driver and if I'm worried just start on the lowest setting and work up until it finally starts turning.
Watching his new videos, compared to this older one, his camera style and presentation styles are similar, but quite different at the same time. His enthusiasm is way higher in his newer videos too. But great work. I have to replace the motor mounts in my wife's VW Routan. This should help.
ChrisFix Great video!! At this point I'm just watching your videos on how to fix things I don't need fixed. Thank you, hope to see more of your quality work!
This was a great video and really makes me wonder if the transmission shop I went to last week gave me a quote to rip me off because I'm female. The part was $480 and LABOR was $833 - and that was just for ONE mount. This is why I still toy around with the idea of becoming a mechanic and opening up a female employed mechanic shop. Thanks for the video :-)
Thanks for the video man! I just brought a 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe to Costa Rica and it had been vibrating and knocking like crazy especially when the tranny is in D. The mechanic jacked it up and it was exactly the same thing. I enjoy your videos very much.
Great tutorial, as all of your videos. Everything is straight forward and clear for the vehicle you are working on. I am going to lift 1-2 inches the engine on RX 350, 2015 to get access to the one of ATF pan bolt, which is blocked by sub frame. Unfortunately, I don't have that solid place to put my jack, and I would never place the jack under the ATF or oil pan, despite there are a lot of videos with the jack under the oil pan. My question is can I jack up a bit the engine by placing the jack under the transfer case. It looks for me like a solid place.
It seems like every time I have a problem i think to myself “did chrisfix make a video on this?” And of course Chrisfix saves my butt again. Thanks Chris
Would be awesome to see a video on how weightloss in a car would effect mpg, there are a lot of videos on how much performance u gain but i wanna improve my mpg and wondering if replaceing the seats wheels exhaust with lighter versions will make a noticable difference
yo, you re vids are the bomb diggy, most of these jobs I thought had to be done in a garage, you're just out there chillin makin engineers look bad...love this stuff duude
First of all Chris, thank you SO much for your videos! You have no idea how much they have helped me! But was wondering if I could ask you a general question? What would make my 2011 Lexus is250 “wander” on the highway? Almost like it’s being blown side to side by the wind? I have replaced everything I can think of and nothing is helping! I thought if anybody knew, it would be you! Thanks again for lending us your skills and knowledge!
This is exactly why I love RUclips. I googled how to change motor mounts, and it brought me to this video. I have a silver 1997 Ford Windstar that is silver, a carbon-copy of the one in this video except for the rims. I am looking to sell mine but I have a few issues (one being the motor mounts), the others are the rear AC fan seems unbalanced (makes a loud humming sound), the drivers door glass rattles when you shut it (probably a plastic clip or something), and the speedometer fluctuates. ChrisFix What's your opinion of the speedometer and the rear AC fan?
***** Great! Glad the video was heplful! The AC fan probably has debris in it which is why it hums. That is an easy fix and I am publishing a video on that next week. It is on my other ford, but it will be the same idea. The speedometer can be a bad sensor or a bad gauge.
The only thing that I do better is that I like to brush a coat of used transmission oil on all metal parts that are exposed to the elements. This protects all metal from corrosion. If you coat all bolts and exposed metal parts you keep rust at bay from your vehicle and you avoid rust welded bolts
Always use Brakekleen or such to clean bolt threads (and the threaded hole) before applying thread locker. The grease/oil won't allow the thread locker to seize the bolt in the hole.
Thanks a lot for a wonderfully clear explanation, Chris. I was able to change my 2001 Windstar's front and rear engine mounts and driver's side transmission mount successfully thanks to you. You earned a thumbs UP and a subscriber.
Welp don't feel like doing it but guess imma be replacing mounts. Engine shakes like hell after 45. I'll be back to let everyone know if it worked in about a week. Feel free to drop any questions here. Working on an 05 Mazda 3, 2.3 liter in case anyone needs the info.
Love your videos man, have done some repairs following your videos. Just one thing...your normally a lot more enthusiastic in your videos, that's one thing i love about your videos... hope you come back to your normal self
My car a 2012 Yaris vibrate at a stop 🛑 light 💡 and shifting from reverse 🔄 to drive or either way. The ac also makes my car vibrate a little bit. The vibration is annoying, but there no code on the dash and theirs no pull if I’m shifting from park to drive, no clanking. I do get a slite shiver 🥶 when releasing a breaks .
Thank you so much for this video I was lookin at shelling out 300 or more to a mechanic because I had never had to replace these, I was wondering if you had to disconnect anything like wires or hoses before jacking the transmission and/or engine up?
This helped a lot on my 01 Taurus. Almost exactly the same except I needed to remove some of the inner fender to get the clearance needed to jack up the motor. Started without an angle grinder and now I have a new corded(ftw) dewalt that will last for many years...and a little less fender. Thanks Chris
I have jacked up the engine trans combo with using the pan as the jacking point in just about all cases, just threw some wood up in there to spread the force. Never had a pan fail before.
Thats cool, we all have been taught to do somethings different from another but take a moment and look at a transmission jack, it mounts right up to the pan.
This video is so helpful for the engine mount replacement I'll have to do on my truck soon. Thank you very much! One question. At what point did you use the jack stands? I may have just missed it in the video. Thank you!
Dumb question, but how do you know the maximum height that you can jack your transmission up to? It seems like if you jacked it up just a little further it would have been easy to remove/replace the mounts, so there must have been a reason you didn't push it any further than that, right?
Brooo now I might not know all about workings in cars and shiet BUT I INSTANTLY knew what was wrong w my car when I bought it yesterday... I gotta change out my mounts 😭 and everyone said no it's the transmission like honeeeyyy my car is FINE I know whats going on 🙄
@@aaliahfuller1609 or you can do it yourself cuz mechanics try to add shit on... Lemme tell you sum whenever u go to any mechanic make sure you right there don't leave when they say u can go and they will work on it cuz they can take or add unnecessary shit on the car.. I don't trust mechanics whatsoever I be right there !
@@karinacedillo764 yes I just found out today I need 2 motor mounts replaced one stop was gonna charge me 300 in something and yah most shops want me to leave my car I guess it’ll take hours to do I don’t see how this look like 30mins work or an hour
+ChrisFix i got a 1963 plymith and a 64 chrysler new yorker both need new mounts but i rev the big v8 in the chrysler looking at the mounts thare good but the engine still twist alot more than the car. is thare anyway i can fix it without welding it soled
I used to have 60s vintage Mopars with 318 engines that broke driver's side engine mounts a few times. What worked for me, was the next time I changed the mount, I used a scrap of chain about 8 or 10 inches long, bolted one end to the frame, (using one of the same bolts where the engine mount attaches to the frame), then twisted the chain to make it the right approximate length so as to allow the engine to lift slightly, but not too much. I then bolted the other end of the slightly twisted chain with the big bolt that travels from front to back through the mount. I never broke another mount after that. The regular mount allowed it to flex like it should, but the twisted chain kept it from traveling far enough to break the mount.
Not me watching this because I need new ones but knowing that A. I don’t have the equipment 2. I don’t have the strength 3. I’m scared lol. But at least now I know what to look for when I do get it repaired
Just changed out the mounts on my truck for about thirty bucks total. It was stolen and rammed into a concrete divider, breaking all the mounts in half. Not bad for my money
Pac 84 you want to lift it minimally. Just lift it to where you can get the mount off. You don’t want to break any wires or hoses or anything that’s attached to the engine and frame by lifting it too much. Hope this helps
I took my car to the shop for changing the engine mounts. They insisted in jacking up the engine by the oil pan to what I told them change another area, but they insisted it was ok and besides there was no other place to do it for one of the mounts. However it was ok. I got no colateral damage this time....I think the best way should be to hook up the engine from the top and lift it with one of those special jacks
love this channel, subscribed right away. i2012 nissan sentra SR, ive had multiple repairs with my car, last mount to do is the transmission mount i suppose because i am still having this exact problem. i also have a brake problem now, looks like it could be the rotors because of the steering wheel vibration is severe now when braking, im just hoping it is anything worse like an axle or something. the fun never stops ....
Would you suggest putting thread locker on the 2 engine mount bolts + 1 engine mount nut, to prevent them from coming out from excess vibration? Or should the Engine Mounts + Shock Absorbers prevent any serious vibrations from reaching those bolts? Also, Love your Videos, they're very informative, keep up the great work!
Chris - an update on the strut arm(rod) on the windstar. Finally got around to doing one side - took me a long time under the car. Anyway general procedure - partially loosen the 24 mm nut on the strut rod before removal of the lower control arm - make it easier later. remove lower control arm. My windstar had split bushings, I know there are solid units. The old rubber is actually not that hard to cut being old and rotted, I used a razor knife but could have(make should have) used my 3" cutter wheel. I thought about a torch but the serpentine belt and the oil filter is right above the work area. You will find the inside metal bushing washer seized on the rubber. Get the penetrant ready and have silicon spray ready. After making a few cuts, I sprayed silicon underneath the rubber as best could get, then used a 22mm wrench with leverage by the frame and a hammer and beat the bushing towards the front end. Using leverage with other wrenches & a chisel I was able to get the bushing to move an inch or so on to the silicon sprayed metal. After wrestling and a lots of cursing, went to the other end of the strut rod & pulled while twisting & jiggling the rod (easier said than done!). Got the rod off. Make sure to note the orientation of the rod. Installing was a pain, didn't know which side of the bushing went where..I put the shorter side on the rod inside the frame. Tried for the longest time to fit it in the ferrule or metal hole (which spins easily after cleaning) - no luck since it kept coming out. Put the longer part of the bushing in the outside frame beat it with a hammer, finally got it in. I don't think there is any need to attempt to put the inside bushing in the hole - it is futile (at least for me). Insert the rod and use a wrench to hole it when you get the nut on the outer side of the bushing (easier said than done). Tighten Tighten tighten and the inside bushing will eventually go into place. It will seem loose until you manipulate the rod from the lower control arm side. After a struggle with the control arm (into position), I again tightened the nut a bit more. Didn't do the other driver side yet as it is cold in PA and I was cold (started at 44 degrees to 32 when done). Another day. Looking back perhaps I will try a drill to make a hole for penetrant & silicon purposes & also try heating the new bushing in hot water before trying to get them on the ferrule hole (had to have made it harder). Anyway I will let you know after I do the driver side (whichI suspect is the source of my clunk).
Bob Biggard Hey Bob, thanks for the update! This is very helpful. I might have to give it a try myself! Good luck with the other side. I might try toasting the bushing with a torch if I cant get the penetrating fluid behind it to get it off! Thanks again. I am going to follow your steps if I get stuck!
ChrisFix just took a little test drive..NO CLUNK! also suspension feels good! Rivals the 2014 jeep grand I am driving around. Gives me some more incentive to tackle the driver side. Yes, I really hate winter - especially if I am under the car!
ChrisFix It was too cold for me to do anything, plus a bit stiff and sore from yesterday's strut rod work.Check your passenger side since it is probably covered with grease from the oil filter being right above it (mine was really greasy and had grit under the bushing). My driver side, the rubber looks dry rotted. Maybe today I will tackle this. Anyway I am totally envious of anyone with a heated garage! It is even colder today - which really blows...
Just watched this, because my parents have this particular mini-van, but you can use a crow's foot on your torque wrench as long as you torque to the minimum spec. The crow's foot will extend the moment arm of the wrench making the actual torque slightly greater than the reading it's set for; approximately 10 percent unless you have the crow at ninety degrees to the shaft.
Chris Fix: Many salutations!!! I once rode in a vehicle whose running power plant vibrated the cabin when it was held immobile while the transmission was engaged -- id est, stopped at a red light. Could faulty motor mounts be to blame for this?
Hey chrisfix must a pain working on cars with all this rain we've been gettin, we feel like a washing machine here in New England wash, rinse, repeat lol keep up the great work.
Any more videos featuring your '96 Corvette would be greatly appreciated. Too bad it's a daily driver. You could probably do an entire series on C4 corvette repair and easily have a gazillion eyes glued to your videos (well a gazillion more I should say). Thanks for all the information you've provided to date. TCOY! Happy Thanksgiving!
I think this video is one of the few videos that you did not use a wire brush or sandpaper😋. Great job on all your videos. Now to go get the parts and tools 😅
I'm not gonna lie, watching your videos are kinda therapeutic and informative. I wish u great health and wisdom. Peace..
When comparing his old videos with his newer ones the camera quality and quality of information is the same but you can tell how different his energy is. With his older videos he is seldom and serious but with his newer videos he is very enthusiastic and entertaining.
Now it's "HEY, GUYSSSSS!! CHRISFIX HERE!!! AND I'M GOING TO SHOW YOU HOW TO FIX YOUR MF'ING CAR!!!"
youtube forced him to do so, otherwise they would demonetize his channel
Bro said this 4 years ago and still true today
Lost his virginity
@@Hide_and_Tweakthats not true in the slightest
My car works because of you.... You are awesome
I LOVE THIS GUY!!! Ground-level, simple to understand, very thorough. Well done!!!
you make some of the most helpful video's on the internet
Steve Richardson Thanks a lot Steve! I do my best!
I second that.....great stuff.
I learn more watching his videos than I did at my trade school.
i can't thank you enough for the way you keep things simple and not have to hear yourself over talk. I recently watch a video for a 3 minute fix that was 14 minutes long. to much blah blah blah(which seems to be the norm). Obviously, your vids are not for the completely inexperienced, but for most of
diy, perfect. Thanks again and keep up the good work
I like that he doesn't spend the first 10 minutes of every video lecturing the audience before showing us anything and that he actually shows how to do it with mostly basic hand tools to prove that it can be done when so many videos go right to the impact wrench assuming that everyone has one. I love my air tools and they were a great investment but not everyone can afford a set nor can they be used in every situation.
I gotta tell you Chris, I love your videos. I love how you explain things. You are among the top 3 people I enjoy listen to here on youtube. You're a good man Chris.
I love when things go smoothly
Chris Fix you are awesome dude, you give a person the knowledge that they can do it themselves with a little discipline I really do appreciate all the videos you do for everyone. thanks again
Very well explained! Chris is an excellent instructor.
Love it! You saved me $500.00 that the mechanic wanted from me.
+Hamady Ba Awesome! I am glad to hear it!
Mine wants over $1,000. Luckily, I have my Chris fix Batman light I shine onto the clouds when I need help! Thanks Chris
Great video, well done. Laughed when you pried out the mount and yelled ouch.
Thanks Brian!
marvel
Chris, you and realfixesrealfast are the only one's I've seen work on windstars, which is what my wife drives. I now have a clear understanding and confidence that I can do some of the work myself, AND I'M NOT EVEN A MECHANIC!!!! Thanks so much for putting in the time to show great instructional videos for guys like me. Keep up the great work! Take care.
moneygeewtee Thanks a lot man! I am glad my videos have helped! That windstar has 300k miles on her so you know it is being maintained lol. I will have a new video soon on how to replace the rear window defroster switch and also how to diagnose what is bad. New automotive 'how to' videos every Thursday and most Mondays so stay tuned!
Looking forward to it. Thanks again Chris. Take care.
Fantastic, you have a gift for demystifying this stuff mate. So many times I've read things like '"Oh, just remove the motor mount and drop the engine down" - but if you don't even know what a motor mount looks like to begin with you can start descending down a never ending rabbit hole and forget what problem you were originally trying to solve lol :-)
I love that you don't just show how to replace a mount - but WHY you might need to as well and what could happen if you don't. It's important information often missed by others. Money was tight growing up with just my mother and we only ever took our car to the mechanic when it was broken. I thought 'maintenance' was an oil change once a year. Best wishes from New Zealand, 2021.
I will probably never do this in my life but I really enjoy this video and your other videos. You are very knowledgeable and talented both as teacher and cameraman. Very interesting to watch! Thanks!
Thanks a lot! I am glad you learned a lot!
I do the same, probably wont ever do it but its fun to watch and learn
same to me, will not gonna do it by myself but sure it is helpful to identify the problem and deal with the workshop
I did it looks good
I couldn't stop laughing when the mount hit him he soullessly said ow
Me too man 😂😂. He is funny.
Same!! Hahahahah
@@alastair_the_lyon minute?
i only came to the comments after that happened
"Ow" is said by me every 5 minutes when I'm fixing things on my own car!
Thank you, the wrench trick is something I never knew about before. I’ve gotten by on tapping the wrench with a hammer, but often there’s barely any room to do that. Going to double up on wrenches from now on.
I like these instructional videos. I do have some doubts about when you say if you can change one, you can change them all. I do think certain vehicles have differences that can make them substantially more difficult.
you are a very good mechanic I am 56 years old but don't know a lot about cars you make it look so easy.
Chris Fix your video was very helpful. Going in I didn't have a clue as to the complications I would be facing as a DIY job. You showed very clearly what has to be done and now I need to decide 1) let a mechanic do it and pay through my schnoz or 2) do it myself. Thanks again,
Al
Just came back only to review 2-open-wrench trick! Saved me time, nerves and money! Thanks, you're a real pro!
good point on not jacking up on oil pans... they will cave in and can destroy seals.
got it
So where do I jack engine from bottom so I can take weight off the mounts to loosen bolts 🤦🏾♂️
Love that you torque everything and you don't drive in all your nuts and bolts with an impact wrench. Those things save time but they put too much pressure on the nuts and bolts.
Thanks! It also makes it impossible to get off if when you tighten them with an impact wrench!
If you over-torque them then yeah, that's why I specifically bought an impact wrench with multiple settings so that I could use it to remove bolts and drive them back in but drive in just enough that the torque wrench is used to finish the job. I've also found that I've less likely to break the head off a bolt with the impact wrench than with a breaker bar, never broken one with the impact driver and if I'm worried just start on the lowest setting and work up until it finally starts turning.
Watching his new videos, compared to this older one, his camera style and presentation styles are similar, but quite different at the same time. His enthusiasm is way higher in his newer videos too. But great work. I have to replace the motor mounts in my wife's VW Routan. This should help.
Thanks!
Lol *wap* "ow, little painful there but"
I died 😂😂
Wap lol
Lol
Filmed, explained, and demonstrated perfectly! Thank you!
Thanks! Glad the video was helpful!
I paid a mechanic 1600 dollars and they didn't even last a year after he replaced them. Im going to fix them myself, thanks Chris for showing me how.
Darn! But now you can make sure the job gets done correctly!
ChrisFix Great video!! At this point I'm just watching your videos on how to fix things I don't need fixed. Thank you, hope to see more of your quality work!
thanks Raul. I'm glad you are learning a lot. Now if you have a problem then you will know what what to do!
Nice to see a very clear video accompanied by very clear instructions - thanks from the uk!
That was an excellent instructional video. Clear, concise without a bunch of needless (the ow! was definitely needed!) chatter.
Glad it was helpful!
This was a great video and really makes me wonder if the transmission shop I went to last week gave me a quote to rip me off because I'm female. The part was $480 and LABOR was $833 - and that was just for ONE mount. This is why I still toy around with the idea of becoming a mechanic and opening up a female employed mechanic shop. Thanks for the video :-)
+Julie O'Neil Hopefully they didnt take advantage of you :( but I am glad the video was helpful!
"So now, I'm just gonna, pry that out- ow!"
😂
It would be cool if you made a video on how to maintain your tools. Like the floor jack you got.
Clear, voice, tools, actual binds and fixes. Great communication!
Thanks Ed! I try to do that with all of my videos!
Thanks for the video man! I just brought a 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe to Costa Rica and it had been vibrating and knocking like crazy especially when the tranny is in D. The mechanic jacked it up and it was exactly the same thing. I enjoy your videos very much.
Scott Cabrera Glad the video was helpful Scott!
Great tutorial, as all of your videos. Everything is straight forward and clear for the vehicle you are working on. I am going to lift 1-2 inches the engine on RX 350, 2015 to get access to the one of ATF pan bolt, which is blocked by sub frame. Unfortunately, I don't have that solid place to put my jack, and I would never place the jack under the ATF or oil pan, despite there are a lot of videos with the jack under the oil pan. My question is can I jack up a bit the engine by placing the jack under the transfer case. It looks for me like a solid place.
He makes it look so easy thanks for the info!
It seems like every time I have a problem i think to myself “did chrisfix make a video on this?” And of course Chrisfix saves my butt again. Thanks Chris
Don't need to change out a motor mount. But, I enjoy your videos, they've been very helpful. Thanks for sharing.
you're videos are very helpful,makes me work on my car from now on thanks.
Would be awesome to see a video on how weightloss in a car would effect mpg, there are a lot of videos on how much performance u gain but i wanna improve my mpg and wondering if replaceing the seats wheels exhaust with lighter versions will make a noticable difference
yet another apparently impossible task for a basic skills Diyer to achieve - clearly explained and clearly recorded - Well done Well done Well done
Thanks Robert. It really is not hard with the right tools and know-how.
yo, you re vids are the bomb diggy, most of these jobs I thought had to be done in a garage, you're just out there chillin makin engineers look bad...love this stuff duude
Glad the videos are helpful!
First of all Chris, thank you SO much for your videos! You have no idea how much they have helped me! But was wondering if I could ask you a general question? What would make my 2011 Lexus is250 “wander” on the highway? Almost like it’s being blown side to side by the wind? I have replaced everything I can think of and nothing is helping! I thought if anybody knew, it would be you! Thanks again for lending us your skills and knowledge!
This is exactly why I love RUclips. I googled how to change motor mounts, and it brought me to this video. I have a silver 1997 Ford Windstar that is silver, a carbon-copy of the one in this video except for the rims. I am looking to sell mine but I have a few issues (one being the motor mounts), the others are the rear AC fan seems unbalanced (makes a loud humming sound), the drivers door glass rattles when you shut it (probably a plastic clip or something), and the speedometer fluctuates. ChrisFix What's your opinion of the speedometer and the rear AC fan?
***** Great! Glad the video was heplful! The AC fan probably has debris in it which is why it hums. That is an easy fix and I am publishing a video on that next week. It is on my other ford, but it will be the same idea. The speedometer can be a bad sensor or a bad gauge.
The only thing that I do better is that I like to brush a coat of used transmission oil on all metal parts that are exposed to the elements. This protects all metal from corrosion. If you coat all bolts and exposed metal parts you keep rust at bay from your vehicle and you avoid rust welded bolts
Always use Brakekleen or such to clean bolt threads (and the threaded hole) before applying thread locker. The grease/oil won't allow the thread locker to seize the bolt in the hole.
Thanks a lot for a wonderfully clear explanation, Chris. I was able to change my 2001 Windstar's front and rear engine mounts and driver's side transmission mount successfully thanks to you. You earned a thumbs UP and a subscriber.
I still think its Kevin Bacon doing these videos. LOL Chris your the man.
Lol thanks!
Welp don't feel like doing it but guess imma be replacing mounts. Engine shakes like hell after 45. I'll be back to let everyone know if it worked in about a week. Feel free to drop any questions here. Working on an 05 Mazda 3, 2.3 liter in case anyone needs the info.
Love your videos man, have done some repairs following your videos. Just one thing...your normally a lot more enthusiastic in your videos, that's one thing i love about your videos... hope you come back to your normal self
My car a 2012 Yaris vibrate at a stop 🛑 light 💡 and shifting from reverse 🔄 to drive or either way. The ac also makes my car vibrate a little bit. The vibration is annoying, but there no code on the dash and theirs no pull if I’m shifting from park to drive, no clanking. I do get a slite shiver 🥶 when releasing a breaks .
What a great car owner, 277k miles on the vehicle and still running strong.
very educational video. I love it. Everyday I learn something from u. Thanks you very much!
Thanks and perfect! Glad it is educational! Love hearing this!
Thank you so much for this video I was lookin at shelling out 300 or more to a mechanic because I had never had to replace these, I was wondering if you had to disconnect anything like wires or hoses before jacking the transmission and/or engine up?
a well-edited video !! very good instruction.
This helped a lot on my 01 Taurus. Almost exactly the same except I needed to remove some of the inner fender to get the clearance needed to jack up the motor. Started without an angle grinder and now I have a new corded(ftw) dewalt that will last for many years...and a little less fender. Thanks Chris
Eric Hillesheim Awesome! Glad the video was helpful and nice work getting the job done!
This was my next job,had a bad feeling about it but not now,thanks as always.
again I want to say thank you
I have jacked up the engine trans combo with using the pan as the jacking point in just about all cases, just threw some wood up in there to spread the force. Never had a pan fail before.
Thanks for the info. I was always taught not to and so I dont have people destroying their oil pans I recommended not to do that lol
Thats cool, we all have been taught to do somethings different from another but take a moment and look at a transmission jack, it mounts right up to the pan.
Haha good point. Yea, I guess if you distribute the weight correctly you can do it that way too!
“So now I’m just gonna... pry that out, Ow!!!” That was the highlight of the video
Burnt the hell out of my hand now i can't service my car. Going through your Vids is getting me excited to get back at it. You da best
This was helpful. I am about to start this myself. Probably won't finish in ten minutes though..... Thanks!
+Bryan Barnash glad the video was helpful
This video is so helpful for the engine mount replacement I'll have to do on my truck soon. Thank you very much! One question. At what point did you use the jack stands? I may have just missed it in the video. Thank you!
Dumb question, but how do you know the maximum height that you can jack your transmission up to? It seems like if you jacked it up just a little further it would have been easy to remove/replace the mounts, so there must have been a reason you didn't push it any further than that, right?
How is this 7 years ago and crispy clean footage
Brooo now I might not know all about workings in cars and shiet BUT I INSTANTLY knew what was wrong w my car when I bought it yesterday... I gotta change out my mounts 😭 and everyone said no it's the transmission like honeeeyyy my car is FINE I know whats going on 🙄
Same here cause my car drives drive I just get vibrations but im currently finna get it looked at today or tomorrow morning
@@aaliahfuller1609 or you can do it yourself cuz mechanics try to add shit on... Lemme tell you sum whenever u go to any mechanic make sure you right there don't leave when they say u can go and they will work on it cuz they can take or add unnecessary shit on the car.. I don't trust mechanics whatsoever I be right there !
@@karinacedillo764 yes I just found out today I need 2 motor mounts replaced one stop was gonna charge me 300 in something and yah most shops want me to leave my car I guess it’ll take hours to do I don’t see how this look like 30mins work or an hour
FR💯
great simple easy to understand...thx for making point of jacking engine/trans on solid part not the drip pan
zzgolf Thanks and no problem! I try my best to give solid information (get it, solid haha).
Chrisfix for President👍🏽🇺🇸
Blessing, Chris
you are Teacher
+marcelo encarnacion Thank you!
+ChrisFix i got a 1963 plymith and a 64 chrysler new yorker both need new mounts but i rev the big v8 in the chrysler looking at the mounts thare good but the engine still twist alot more than the car.
is thare anyway i can fix it without welding it soled
I used to have 60s vintage Mopars with 318 engines that broke driver's side engine mounts a few times. What worked for me, was the next time I changed the mount, I used a scrap of chain about 8 or 10 inches long, bolted one end to the frame, (using one of the same bolts where the engine mount attaches to the frame), then twisted the chain to make it the right approximate length so as to allow the engine to lift slightly, but not too much. I then bolted the other end of the slightly twisted chain with the big bolt that travels from front to back through the mount.
I never broke another mount after that. The regular mount allowed it to flex like it should, but the twisted chain kept it from traveling far enough to break the mount.
Damn you make things look easy. I hope I have this much ease with my Taurus
Not me watching this because I need new ones but knowing that A. I don’t have the equipment 2. I don’t have the strength 3. I’m scared lol. But at least now I know what to look for when I do get it repaired
At least you know how it gets done! Nothing wrong with that
This is scary to even think of doing at home!! Well done!
Just changed out the mounts on my truck for about thirty bucks total. It was stolen and rammed into a concrete divider, breaking all the mounts in half. Not bad for my money
super tip extending wrenches for leverage..real nifty...thanks.
How high can the engine be lifted? How do I know when to stop jacking
Pac 84 you want to lift it minimally. Just lift it to where you can get the mount off. You don’t want to break any wires or hoses or anything that’s attached to the engine and frame by lifting it too much. Hope this helps
@Bruce Lee he says that in the video
@Anonymous Anonymous so jack the engine up as lil as possible I’m not changing mounts I jus need to loosen it a lil to get the starter out
😂 you can tell he's more enthusiastic in the newer videos but the videos are still amazingly filmed and very informative👌🤘
I took my car to the shop for changing the engine mounts. They insisted in jacking up the engine by the oil pan to what I told them change another area, but they insisted it was ok and besides there was no other place to do it for one of the mounts. However it was ok. I got no colateral damage this time....I think the best way should be to hook up the engine from the top and lift it with one of those special jacks
love this channel, subscribed right away. i2012 nissan sentra SR, ive had multiple repairs with my car, last mount to do is the transmission mount i suppose because i am still having this exact problem. i also have a brake problem now, looks like it could be the rotors because of the steering wheel vibration is severe now when braking, im just hoping it is anything worse like an axle or something. the fun never stops ....
Thanks man this helps a lot 👍
great vid when that transmission mount came off tho made me LoL xD
Would you suggest putting thread locker on the 2 engine mount bolts + 1 engine mount nut, to prevent them from coming out from excess vibration?
Or should the Engine Mounts + Shock Absorbers prevent any serious vibrations from reaching those bolts?
Also, Love your Videos, they're very informative, keep up the great work!
Thanks again chris, you inspired me a lot. I saved thousands of dollars fixing my car.
Awesome Riiaq!!! I am glad the video was helpful!
Well done....this is simple way of replacing...
i'm watching this knowing damn well imma take my car to the mechanic
Chris you make it seem easy like I can do this! Thank you man. I appreciate you.
Very nice and clear good work thank you Chris Fix
Chris - an update on the strut arm(rod) on the windstar. Finally got around to doing one side - took me a long time under the car. Anyway general procedure - partially loosen the 24 mm nut on the strut rod before removal of the lower control arm - make it easier later. remove lower control arm. My windstar had split bushings, I know there are solid units. The old rubber is actually not that hard to cut being old and rotted, I used a razor knife but could have(make should have) used my 3" cutter wheel. I thought about a torch but the serpentine belt and the oil filter is right above the work area. You will find the inside metal bushing washer seized on the rubber. Get the penetrant ready and have silicon spray ready. After making a few cuts, I sprayed silicon underneath the rubber as best could get, then used a 22mm wrench with leverage by the frame and a hammer and beat the bushing towards the front end. Using leverage with other wrenches & a chisel I was able to get the bushing to move an inch or so on to the silicon sprayed metal. After wrestling and a lots of cursing, went to the other end of the strut rod & pulled while twisting & jiggling the rod (easier said than done!). Got the rod off. Make sure to note the orientation of the rod. Installing was a pain, didn't know which side of the bushing went where..I put the shorter side on the rod inside the frame. Tried for the longest time to fit it in the ferrule or metal hole (which spins easily after cleaning) - no luck since it kept coming out. Put the longer part of the bushing in the outside frame beat it with a hammer, finally got it in. I don't think there is any need to attempt to put the inside bushing in the hole - it is futile (at least for me). Insert the rod and use a wrench to hole it when you get the nut on the outer side of the bushing (easier said than done). Tighten Tighten tighten and the inside bushing will eventually go into place. It will seem loose until you manipulate the rod from the lower control arm side. After a struggle with the control arm (into position), I again tightened the nut a bit more. Didn't do the other driver side yet as it is cold in PA and I was cold (started at 44 degrees to 32 when done). Another day. Looking back perhaps I will try a drill to make a hole for penetrant & silicon purposes & also try heating the new bushing in hot water before trying to get them on the ferrule hole (had to have made it harder). Anyway I will let you know after I do the driver side (whichI suspect is the source of my clunk).
Bob Biggard Hey Bob, thanks for the update! This is very helpful. I might have to give it a try myself! Good luck with the other side. I might try toasting the bushing with a torch if I cant get the penetrating fluid behind it to get it off! Thanks again. I am going to follow your steps if I get stuck!
Bob Biggard Oh, and I feel ya with this weather. Yesterday it was a nice 49F and today it is like 30F. Really stinks!
ChrisFix just took a little test drive..NO CLUNK! also suspension feels good! Rivals the 2014 jeep grand I am driving around. Gives me some more incentive to tackle the driver side. Yes, I really hate winter - especially if I am under the car!
Bob Biggard AWESOME! That is exactly what I need to do! I did a coolant flush today and it was so cold out lol. It needs to be spring asap!
ChrisFix It was too cold for me to do anything, plus a bit stiff and sore from yesterday's strut rod work.Check your passenger side since it is probably covered with grease from the oil filter being right above it (mine was really greasy and had grit under the bushing). My driver side, the rubber looks dry rotted. Maybe today I will tackle this. Anyway I am totally envious of anyone with a heated garage! It is even colder today - which really blows...
Best channel ever. Thx
Just watched this, because my parents have this particular mini-van, but you can use a crow's foot on your torque wrench as long as you torque to the minimum spec.
The crow's foot will extend the moment arm of the wrench making the actual torque slightly greater than the reading it's set for; approximately 10 percent unless you have the crow at ninety degrees to the shaft.
Thanks Chris! What are your thoughts on aftermarket mounts?
Chris Fix:
Many salutations!!! I once rode in a vehicle whose running power plant vibrated the cabin when it was held immobile while the transmission was engaged -- id est, stopped at a red light. Could faulty motor mounts be to blame for this?
5:24
Yup...owning a Windstar is painful.
Hey chrisfix must a pain working on cars with all this rain we've been gettin, we feel like a washing machine here in New England wash, rinse, repeat lol keep up the great work.
Another great how to video. Thanks
Thanks man!
thanks for the video. you just helped me fix my 3.8L lincoln. major props.
+scott koepp awesome!
man you are so helpful I solve 90% of my car problems from watching your videos.
Any more videos featuring your '96 Corvette would be greatly appreciated. Too bad it's a daily driver. You could probably do an entire series on C4 corvette repair and easily have a gazillion eyes glued to your videos (well a gazillion more I should say). Thanks for all the information you've provided to date. TCOY! Happy Thanksgiving!
As usual wonderful work MR FIX
I think this video is one of the few videos that you did not use a wire brush or sandpaper😋.
Great job on all your videos. Now to go get the parts and tools 😅
Great stuff.Very Well Explained.Edified !