One Man Window Install! These Rigging & Tools Blew Me Away!
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- Опубликовано: 28 дек 2023
- Matt is visiting one of Steve's builds where the owner has invented a mechanism to install a window by himself. With a few readily available items and some specialized tools, anyone could use this method to easily install a window, saving tons of time.
European Architectural Supply Windows
www.eas-usa.com/
Check out the GRABO Professional Vacuum Lift Tool
grabo.com/
Check out the Winbag
winbagusa.com/
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I'll bet he saves 20k+ installing these himself. It may look cumbersome but well worth the trouble. Incredibly impressive Josh. Congrats on building your dream home and with your own two hands non the less
Thank you. Your guess of savings is very close. Nice guess!! And, thank you for the kudos.
I was just about to hire my cabin window install, then Matt puts out this video. My wife is going to kill me…😂
Can't wait for Matt to review the first practical builder powered-exoskeleton system. 😅
Josh is a king. Congratulations
Josh is my hero! This was really fun to watch.
Josh is a man after my own heart…I like his style.
When I do these things by myself, a little scrap block the wood hanging down from the top is an excellent insurance plan
This has me imagining a hand powered, fork lift style system 😮where the legs and arms collapse down, similar to a hand cart for transportation. And space for removable counter balance plates to enable bigger lifts without becoming too heavy for one man transport between sites. Less setup time for the hoist and use all of the same vacuum and air bladder concepts from this video…would make a great system for professionals to one-man these large window installs.
The Grabo is am awesome tool. I bought a Grabo Plus to use while laying a large format (1m x 1m x 25mm) very heavy porcelain tile patio at my house a couple of years ago. Just under 80 m2 in total. I was able to bolt long handles to the eye holes on it so that 2 people could lift a tile into place. It worked perfectly. One of the few tools I kept when moving from the UK to Canada and now this has given me another idea on how to use it.
Cool! Thanks to Josh :)
Wow, what a cool tool!!!
Kind of expensive but considering the cost of things it’ll be used for, totally worth it
Awesome!!! Thanks! 👍
Where there's a will, there's a way!
Josh, you're so freaking cool for dreaming up this system. Love it!
Brilliant job Josh! Great to see that ingenuity. You have done an amazing job with everything on the house.
Electric come-along and a pulley would make it even easier.
Very impressive!! Well thought out Josh.
The communication and entertainment value of these videos are so much higher when basic Steve is not on a convoluted rant. Luckily you bring it back to an elegant package.
hahahahahaaaaa
Love you too!!
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 you have great knowledge. Hope my comment can become constructive. Sorry bro 😘
I think I would try to use an electric hoist instead of a manual wench.. that way you can push a button to go up and down. Yea I purchased a set of those grapos love them..
Outstanding video! Congrats Josh!
Are you thinking what i'm thinking?! We need to redesign those Grabo suction handles into a boot and glove configuration, then climb all over stuff like a gecko 😅.
I recently replaced an existing 48"x48" window by myself just manhandling it into place. I've got a bunch more windows to do ranging from 48"x48" to 96"x36". Betting I could cobble together a frame to support the window while I do the install. Fabulous!
Great work by Josh. I would probably setup a hand-crank brake winch for the vertical lift of the windows. It could handle the load and be much easier to mount and operate than the come-along. It would give very fine movement up and down, and the built-in friction clutch holds it wherever you stop cranking. Dutton-Lainson make some in the $150-200 range that are very good units. I have one on my sawmill to crank the saw head up and down with enough precision to deal with 1/32" increments.
A hand winch handle would be hitting the wall during operation? He could mound it sideways but that would require a more complicated mounting system.
First in for a "you just pop in a bootable USB drive with Windows and select it at startup" joke. One man windows install.
Use the winch to download the ISO then Grabo it in the drive and self-installed! 🤣 On a serious note, I think there is a market for a dolly (think drywall lift) for a rig with suction and leverage/maneuvering, even like a remote-bot-arm that can assist one person installs. Cool video!
This is so insanely brilliant
if i were to do the window install i think i would consider using a hoist and lift system for the window. you can easily counter 800 lbs with 400 lbs..
Could have used this two weeks ago!
Planning to do the same on my house, only will use a 12v ATV winch and snatch block to power the windows into place, especially on my 2-storey tall wall. Great job guys!!!
I originally purchased an electric hoist (be cautious if using a winch since they are made, and weight-rated, for pulling horizontally--not lifting). However, it was quite heavy which significantly complicated putting it into service near the window rough openings. I'd have had to build a metal frame to hold it since I wouldn't be able to mount the hoist to the house framing. The manual hoist just simplified the task immensely and seriously reduced any further costs of building out the support rig (I kept the electric hoist though for use in the garage). Good luck with your project. I hope it goes smoothly regardless of which approach you end up using.
@@joshbrennecke for most of my windows I have a structural header I can lag bolt the winch to for support. That’s the plan anyway, and we all know how often things go perfectly to plan! lol
Thanks for your comments and great job on your build!!! I’m a little behind where you are but hoping to get windows in this spring. Cheers and Happy New Year!
@superspeeder It certainly could work depending on the hoist's mounting design. I hope it works out for you. Stay safe and good luck!
@@joshbrennecke thanks man, you too!
I had to do a 4x8 laminated 300lb window. I used a tractor and screwed a board to the top flange.Tied a rope to either side and lift.
Josh new tool!!
Warning: I love my Grabo for big tile but I’m terrified to use it on windows ever again. It broke the glass for me on an install. I was already foaming the window in, not even holding it, and during re-suction, it crumbled a Grabo-sized hole.
Yes, I had the same experience. I have a couple of $3K windows and was planning on using the Grabos as demonstrated in the video. But something kind of made me step back and before I stuck one on the window I tried it on an older spare window I had around the shop. As soon as the Grabo started to suction and grab the glass shattered. I’ll have to go with plan B. The disclaimer on the Grabo website explicitly states, “Do not use on glass less than 6mm.
Layman question: are windows designed to be able to hold all their weight by the glass or do they require you to support the frame?
yes it is fine. They actually make machines specifically for installing windows that just use suction cups on the glass. ruclips.net/video/xL6gpv6QTDk/видео.html
The glass panel certainly can support the weight of the entire window during production, transportation, and installation, but the frame is, of course, the primary support structure for the window.
@@joshbrenneckejust out of curiosity, did you have any glass shatter from the Grabo suction? I was planning on using your technique until the spare window I tested it on shattered upon the Grabo reaching full suction. After that I read the fine print on the Grabo website: Do not use Grabo on glass less than 6mm. That would be 1/4”. Does Shuco use thick glass even on their smaller windows?
I’m installing Alpen windows which are an American alternative to Shuco and I’m thinking the glass on a 30” x 54” triple pane window isn’t anywhere near 1/4”.
@teddywong6246 Sorry to hear about that experience. I haven't had any panels break when using the Grabos (or at all for that matter). I'm not sure how close you were to the edge of the IGU, but I'm not sure if that would negatively affect their use. I've had them in the middle of the window and in the upper half, and even upper quarter, of the window panels. I'm not sure what would cause that, but I haven't experienced that so far. So I don't know what would cause that.
I'm just glad he changed the thumbnail
What was it?
It was him putting in the window.
And here I thought I was being clever with 2x4 "flip tabs" to hold my flanged windows while I self-installed them. Damn.
Did you consider removing the sash prior to install. Also for the larger window are 2 lift points each with a hoist sufficient load distribution and prevention of side load (like a spreader bar)?
I think a spreader bar would be better than the cable he has going between the two points. You wouldn't have the side load force then just straight up.
So I would love a video breakdown on how to choose your window install. Like this new build didnt go for nail flanges? Why? Isnt the side nailers a renovation style of install? What method is best?
I'm assuming he chose this style so he can install them from the inside using this system.
This is a great suggestion. Being this is a Shuco window, this is going to be aligned with European window styles where a “nailing flange” is replaced with strap anchors being used to install to the interior. This has some significant benefits over an exterior flange (biggest is the benefit of being able to install from the interior but there’s a few other advantages that would be fun to hear these guys talk through). The biggest hesitation most North American builders/installers/consultants have with using the anchor system is interior finishing and exterior air barrier. There’s some good content around this topic as well.
I believe that you can't get a European window with a nailing flange.
@@shannabolser9428 there’s a few companies providing European style windows in North America (Innotech, Euroline, etc) that provide a flange attachment but only as a plumb method to the wall and an air barrier solution. Pros and cons to this. Depends on whether the company ran the engineering to see about this as an alternative but I’m not aware of any where the securing is on the outside like a North American nailing flange.
I selected Schuco windows first and foremost for their performance. Adopting the strap/clip style of mounting was an outcome of that decision, but one that I embraced because I wanted a more in-set window rather than flush to the exterior side. That was a preference, of course, but the Schuco performance was extremely important to us. Every one of our windows, from the small 2' x 3' to the largest being 5' x 9' are between R-7 and R-8 for the entire window assembly (not just the IGU which has a COG of R-10, aka U-factor of 0.10).
mechanical advantage - not to be undervalued. Work smarter - harder ruins backs.
- a simple battery powered electric hoist - could / can add so much value to every situation.
(OR if mechanical lifter is preferred, use a brake hoist - as it is designed to pay-out in a controlled way - or a chain type comealong )
- DIY soft shackles - eliminate metal hooks from the handling system (assist in avoiding scratches or other damage to components) ??
I have lots of work planned on my place - the addition of lifting points / rails around the perimeter - to assist in handling of: roofing / bracing, cladding - etc as a solo operator - has been in mind...
I've got a lot of work still to do, so I'd love to hear more about your ideas. 😁
I’m curious to see how windows are attached on the outside if they have nailing flange, or is it only attached from the inside out
No nailing flange - Euro style windows
The metal tabs on the inside edge are the mounting tabs. He throws some screws through there and done
wonder if a small 12v utility trailer winch would be better than come along. Siminal to BADLAND 2000 lb. Utility Trailer Winch with Steel Rope.
I learned something about winches and hosts and come-alongs during this task research that I think might be of interest. A utility winch rated at 2,000 lbs is absolutely not the same as a hoist rated at 2,000 lbs. The come-along can lift vertically, a winch is rated to pull a heavy load across a horizontal surface where it doesn't have to fully handle the entire amount of weight.
Where did you have the walls built?
Kool…
I'm guessing that Josh wears a belt AND suspenders. Not that there's anything wrong with that. ;-)
Would get rid of the cheapy cable come along and get a small 3/4 ton chain come along. Very costly to have an ooops
1:47 he did a lot head scratching
😂
It's a "replacement" window tho! There's no nailing fins! I need that fin and that Vycor or Zip tape to really seal it. I install all my own Jeld Wen Siteline doors and windows with a little help from the delivery crew to set the big ones in place (not plummed etc). Guys making $25 hr to delivery would love a $100 each for 30 mins. Only the 8/0 sliders really. Need that nailing fin for a better seal! Just sayin
Harbor freight has a 2k lb winch for 60 bucks... better to reduce the manual labor when doing it yourself.
How did he get it up the stairs
lol
This.
Another come along?
Single story house. 😁
Is that 2X4 exterior walls and triple pane windows? If so, it does not make sense to me. I know there is exterior insulation but I have not done a 2X4 exterior wall since the 70's.
I would have installed some blocks on the exterior and pushed the window to them, then centre and fasten. You're going outside to exterior seal, so remove them then.
That is good for a one person show but very slow
insulated zip at R9.
He doesn't have to pay himself hourly for his own labor, nor does he have to fret about whether the installation crew will actually show up on-time on the install day(s).
I would never criticize someone either way, not for doing it themselves, nor for hiring someone else to do it.
Walls are 2x6
@@dondumitru7093 been building for 40 years and there are times when doing things on your own does not pay and can be dangerous, When me and the crew are hired to do a job we show up as does any quality crew.
Analytical comments are more than criticism
@@paperburn + R22 or 24?
Some crew boss is watching this and thinking "heh, I can cut my labor costs next year".
Some crew boss don't have the time to have windows installed by one person. I always say what one person can do in three hours two people can do in an hour. Do you want one person jacking up a 35 foot wall running from ladder to ladder or two working in unison
What a beautifully done ruclips.net/user/postUgkxYGamVaHfdHiPlAQaLa7zkwR02OKpGYDU ! The instructions and the photographs are brilliant. It is thorough and genuinely informative. Ryan got another winner! No one does it better!
Rough frame your openings 3”1/2 greater then premount your windows to a 2x box and slide it through and sausage seal it
Are the windows really that heavy?!
Yes
Honestly, yes, they are.
Think i would have spent an extra $100-200 for an electric winch and used it the same way.
I didn’t want to have to watch this video because I thought I would have help renovating my house but it turns out I’m on my own. 😢
$50 that everyone got sick from Steve.
Nobody got sick or was sick.....
Sorry Steve we all heard you sneeze in the background 🤣
this homeowner does good work but if for my buck 2 guys working together are worth 4 working alone...
The point was just that, I'm not paying anyone else to install them. So, ultimately, doing them myself costs zero dollars (Grabos and come-along costs aside which will certainly be put to use during other parts of the build).
@@joshbrennecke
you deserve a congratulations one way or the other...
I guess im not as easy to impress than Matt...
The looks on their face gives it away for me.
This is a guy trying to save money with a fancy suction cup and a total DIY set up, and a questionable one, I might add. What the video does not show you is the rest of the process that comes along with professional experience. As a contractor, when I see a homeowner attempting something like this, it definitely makes me question if I want to go into business with them.
Some folks have more time than money, others want to have sweat equity in their build, doing work they are acceptably competent to perform. If you think the "solution" shown was janky you don't see the absolutely unsafe methods and damages caused by workers. I have several issues with the point of attachment method (hanging heavy things over high-value people is part of my job) but his basic concept is acceptable. My primary issue is doing work presumably by himself; if there were a glass failure, rigging failure, or other issue on site there would nobody to assist or call emergency services.
@@raygunsforronnie847 I agree..
@raygunsforronnie847 However, I see it from my point of view based on past experiences with the homeowners who view everything as a burdened expense and / or claim to not have the money( They do...) or simply dont see the value in paying for a professional. I am willing to bet this guy will not be reasonable when he sees a problem down the line strictly as dollars and cents and not for what it is: The nature of our business with a thoughtful solution down the line to keep moving forward.
@@raygunsforronnie847
God bless this guy and his windows, but for any young contractors out there, you will learn about the warning signs when "hiring" customers.
@raygunsforronnie847 My fiancee and I currently reside on the property in a separate dwelling, but your point is certainly valid regarding any type of solo work like this on a work site. I appreciate the comment and concerns. Stay safe and build on! 🫡
A House Built to Last 500 Years! WHY ARE YOU ONLY PROMOTING a one sided engineering viewpoint on how to build houses using only wood? How about promoting steel frame houses and steel-reinforced houses using galvanized weathering steels or stainless steel rebars available since the 1920s and 1930s? In 1937, the Progreso Port Authority, in the Port of Progreso, Yucatan, Mexico, constructed a bridge using stainless reinforcing rebar, AISI Type 304, due to the aggressive chloride environment of the saltwater where this bridge was built. Almost 70 years later, this bridge is still standing and being used daily. SAE 316 stainless steel is a molybdenum-alloyed steel and the second most common austenitic stainless steel (after grade 304). It is the preferred steel for use in marine environments because of its greater resistance to pitting corrosion than most other grades of steel without molybdenum. The molybdenum content ranges from 2% to 3% up to 10% molybdenum content with a chromium content of *15% and a nickel content of "10%. Plus 3% to 5% tantalum up to 16% to 20% tantalum and 3% to 5% niobium up to 16% to 20% niobium. *3% tantalum and *3% niobium is required with *11% cerium and *5% yttrium and *1% vanadium with the remaining balance as *52% low carbon - high nitrogen content steel. How about building a house to last for countless of centuries? In Constantinople, an archeologist demonstrated on how to mix 50% burnt quicklime and 50% powdered brick and mixed with enough water to make a mortar with a very high tensile strength and plastered it against a rock wall wet with seawater and he said "There! It is good for the next 1,500 years!" Combine that with sand and gravel in the right proportions and with structural grade stainless steel rebars and double-twisted stainless steel fibers and and PROPERLY mix the new mixture with the right amount of water and PROPERLY placed-pour it and you will get a house that will last for 1,500 years.
Harvesting lumber is the greatest carbon suck we can do as humans. The trees suck up carbon dioxide for 20 years and then we chop it down build a house out of it and that carbon is stuck for 100+ years. More trees are planted to replace those cut down and the process starts again. You want to reduce carbon in the environment and home building solves two issues in 1. Wood framing also stands up better to fire. It takes time for wood to burn to the point of failure... try burning a log to long for a fire pit. You would be surprised how long it has to burn before you can break it to get more in the fire. Metal studs start to weaken as they are exposed to fire and will deform from excess heat. Wood doesn't deform from heat.
Metal stud structures have terrible thermal bridging. You're better off with wood for the purpose of comfort.
@@jonathansage2147 We Russians has already solved that problem for our military installations DECADES AGO and since we have an ultra-rich and highly mineralized Siberian backyard, we can afford high alloy steels to combat such problems but you Americans neglected your Alaskan and Nevada mineral resources and as a result you cannot afford to do the same things that we have been doing for decades.
@@PtrOBrn Ever heard of adding chromium, molybdenum, tungsten, cobalt, nickel, tantalum, niobium, and zirconium plus silicon and misch metal rare earths ally and and copper and in the correct proportions to be added steel while making their mass production economically viable? We Russians has already solved that problem for our military installations DECADES AGO and since we have an ultra-rich and highly mineralized Siberian backyard, we can afford high alloy steels to combat such problems but you Americans neglected your Alaskan and Nevada mineral resources and as a result you cannot afford to do the same things that we have been doing for decades.
I do windows all the time. i just lift them by myself. I can get a 100 a day it aint nothing
You can do the 400 lb one that he will be doing next by yourself? If so then that is impressive.
@shannabolser9428 In less, that is a laminate window. I don't think that's four hundred pounds
I have 15 windows that weigh over 300 pounds each. Ten of those are over 400, and 5 are over 500 pounds. Might as well use the method for anything more than the 'light' ones (based on my own strength, comfort, and safety thresholds, of course).
What a joke!
A House Built to Last 500 Years! WHY ARE YOU ONLY PROMOTING a one sided engineering viewpoint on how to build houses using only wood? How about promoting steel frame houses and steel-reinforced houses using galvanized weathering steels or stainless steel rebars available since the 1920s and 1930s? In 1937, the Progreso Port Authority, in the Port of Progreso, Yucatan, Mexico, constructed a bridge using stainless reinforcing rebar, AISI Type 304, due to the aggressive chloride environment of the saltwater where this bridge was built. Almost 70 years later, this bridge is still standing and being used daily. SAE 316 stainless steel is a molybdenum-alloyed steel and the second most common austenitic stainless steel (after grade 304). It is the preferred steel for use in marine environments because of its greater resistance to pitting corrosion than most other grades of steel without molybdenum. The molybdenum content ranges from 2% to 3% up to 10% molybdenum content with a chromium content of *15% and a nickel content of "10%. Plus 3% to 5% tantalum up to 16% to 20% tantalum and 3% to 5% niobium up to 16% to 20% niobium. *3% tantalum and *3% niobium is required with *11% cerium and *5% yttrium and *1% vanadium with the remaining balance as *52% low carbon - high nitrogen content steel. How about building a house to last for countless of centuries? In Constantinople, an archeologist demonstrated on how to mix 50% burnt quicklime and 50% powdered brick and mixed with enough water to make a mortar with a very high tensile strength and plastered it against a rock wall wet with seawater and he said "There! It is good for the next 1,500 years!" Combine that with sand and gravel in the right proportions and with structural grade stainless steel rebars and double-twisted stainless steel fibers and and PROPERLY mix the new mixture with the right amount of water and PROPERLY placed-pour it and you will get a house that will last for 1,500 years.
At least build them last to be maintenance-free, trouble-free, and repair-free and design them to become 100% DIY improvable and maintainable and inspectable and checkable and testable and cleanable. And design them to last permanently WITHOUT ANY NEED FOR FUTURE MODIFICATIONS AND REMODELING by designing them to meet foreseen future needs many centuries into the future. The way the Ancient Romans and Ancient Byzantines used to do in building their houses and aqueducts and sewerage systems plus the addition of power lines, telephone-internet lines, water lines, etc.