@@buildshow European windows are not tested to US air and water standards as wind and water are much more extreme than Europe. Architects typically are clueless on envelope sealing and air and water tightness. Steve relies on tapes that seem positive on the application, but will eventually fail in adhesion vs stepping water control.
@@newsnowadirondacksredux360 They could encase it with architectural sheet metal methods, the RUclips channel "architectural sheet metal 101" is a pretty decent resource for learning to fold. Really though the tape should last a while if not punctured, it's not exposed to UV rays, and Steve said the weather is pretty good where that house is.
This is pure holy grail of knowledge. Matt, please take a note and do NOT forget to make part 2 to show us all the details regarding sealing and overall finishing and water proofing. Thank you and Steve.
I read the entire Ryan's ruclips.net/user/postUgkxGqOCINHE0Z0E5gxzSdNi9NWGugRY5Hm2 Plans and was able to make a shed plan. Using Ryan's Shed Plans alone, the shed itself is great. Where I wish I knew more is with respect to ground preparation and foundations. Maybe that's beyond the scope of Ryan's Shed Plans.
I really hope there is a part two to this. I’d love to see the process of how the exterior trim is applied and sealed to the window especially along the bottom.
In Germany all our windows open, so we can install just the frame without heavy glass. We then level the bottom on some shims, hold the sides plumb and fix the window in position with the designated full thread screws from the inside of the frame. Foam, tape and done.
The reason why there are very little standard sized windows in Europe is that most of new windows are installed in old buildings and they don't have uniform window openings. Many buildings are over 130 years old. Additionally nearly all new windows have roll up binders built in.
I had a contractor installing these windows up here in CO . Seeing that gap between the frame and window made me do a double take 😳Knowing Matt and Steve approve of these clips, etc made me sleep better at night! 😀
I’ve ordered similar windows from overseas and specified an additional piece of continuous aluminum angle to be attached to the frame to recreate a nail fin. Angle size is 1/2x2” and it fits into side extrusion where you inserted mounting brackets. It does add up in labor but helps to maintain consistent depth
Here in the UK, it’s common practice, with timber framed walls and that style of window, to wrap the membrane inside the window opening and staple it around the inner edge of wall to protect the timber window surround from any water intrusion.
That's no different than how it's framed in the USA, in this case instead of house wrap they're using ZIP sheathing which is OSB (plywood made from wood chips) that's coated with a weather barrier on it so it's integral to the sheathing. Even when wrapping to the inside that doesn't really protect the wood as you usually cut diagonally from the corners so it's always unprotected there and that's also generally where windows will leak water. The stretch tape on the bottom will adhere directly to the wood so there's no gaps where water can flow underneath it and I think they said they were going to be adding additional flashing shingled on top of the zip tape so it's way more protected than the traditional fold of house wrap stapled to the inside.
Nice to hear some common sense about the importance of eave overhangs. Frustratingly, where I live in Australia, our new pending energy code is discouraging eaves and encouraging dark colored walls. You need to come down here and explain a few things to our rule makers.
I just finished my UPVC window and door installs. You can use Tilt and Turn profiles as doors. I have one for the laundry but people use them on their balcony. I chose Aluplast
How do you handle the outside of the window in terms of your cladding? I’m used to flanged windows where you just but your cladding up to the window. I’m trying to wrap my head around that detail.
I live in Europe as a native Californian and it amazes me how temporary our homes in the US are vs in Europe or in fact most other countries. Europeans tell me stories of when they visited the US and being a soar using cardboard (Sheetrock) for almost everything. They also are confused by our measurements 2”x4” isn’t really that size. Lol
I really want to see the flashing detail in the outside. How do you span the gap? Do you flash directly to the window, across the foam, and on to the wood? I did some with liquid flashing this way, but I want to see you guys do it
Especially the shutter blinds, those are absolutely awesome. Even if I have to install them myself going to have those. I think I read U.S. doesnt use them because of fire and EU uses a lot more cement than our wood frames. Going to Denver just to look at some I think the store sells.
@@wagonwheeldc As a German i think it is worth it. the different mounting methods, the positiv and negativ impact on insulation, fire saftey, automation,... I think there is a lot to talk about. But it might not be easy for an American in America to get someone to talk about all of this.
Would love to find out more about the pluses and minuses of installing windows in the middle of walls vs. the outside or inside. Is there an existing video you can point me to, or is a new video forthcoming on this subject? I'm in the process of installing "European windows" on my house (I live in Europe and we don't call them that here), and since I'm trying to get my house as close to passive house standards as possible, I'd love to make sure my new windows are installed at the right depth from the exterior wall surface. Thanks in advance!
I wish I had this video this spring when I installed the windows in my first house build. I couldn’t find a good installation guide, and had to figure it out on my own. And as someone who isn’t a carpenter I can say that the installation is really simple once you know what you’re doing.
I've had so many lawsuits where the no flange windows installed over wood frame has caused water intrusion. Very interesting to see a no flange system!
Hey Matt, Thanks for all amazing tips and content overall. This is coming from South Florida region and here it is primarily a concrete block construction, do you have ability to show how to build airtight homes and best insulation practices for that type of construction?
Maybe ok for use in contemporary homes where the fenestration doesn't matter so much, but really large expanses of glass doesn't work well with traditional architecture.
Just because on that example they use modern style windows, doesn‘t mean you don‘t get those in traditional style. E.g. you can order them with lattice, integrated or added on top of the glas. You get also wood windows with triple glas - cheaper and with better insulation values then the on in the video.
Interesting, my 120 yr old house had new windows installed in 1978: they're all wood, flips open for cleaning and airing, and are relatively energy efficient as they have doble glass filled with argon gass in the vacuum. Still better than any modern US made windows?? (I live in Norway).
I’m doing a similar install with flangeless windows, but I’m recessing them so the frames will be flush with my interior drywall. My installer is recommending stainless steel sill pans on all 20+ windows which seems like overkill to me and very costly. The windows sit on the back dam and I’ll slope the sills in front just like Steve said he was going to do. I also have large eaves ranging from 2’ to 5’. Should I overrule the window guy?
Essve level screw at the bottom and adjufix on the sides, for wooden frames in norway/scandinavia😅 Just remeber to wedge too, if not you are depending on the trim to keep the frame square and in place ..
Nice! But how would you have finished the outside if you weren't doing a "barrier" method? Three sided tap with none at the bottom and backeerod with caulk on the inside?
This is so super super helpful. In continental Europe, most windows are 'in-betweenies' without any flashing. They mainly rely on caulking to prevent water seep in between the window frame and the wall. These inevitably get some moisture or water seepage in bottom corners during windy rains. Any tips on how to prevent such seepages from bottom corners without removing the windows entirely and reinstall over tape flashing?
Videos like this one feel like they are cut a bit short, e.g. the taping that was discussed at the end but not shown. Posting a follow-up video to each of these that's not a production video but hits on these details would be nice. One option in RUclips is to publish a public video but not syndicate it out to your subscribers on the subs feed or via notifications (if you'd like to keep the "production" videos be the ones featured there), so you could then link to that longer video at the end of the "main" one.
Some US window makers have adopted those European style models. So you can get American made "European" windows. They only import the mechanical components, frame and glass are US made. And yes it is very DIY friendly.
Would be interesting to see how a pocket install is detailed on the outside. These are some of the hardest things to get right. Is there a video you did or recommend?
It would really be nice to see a follow-up video showing the sealing and finishing around the edges (I know others have asked for that). Based on this video indicating that the windows will be flush with the exterior sheathing, I cannot see how they can be sealed and finished nicely.
I live in a desert environment. My current house is solid brick construction, i.e., no wood or cinder blocks and unfortunately no insulation. Exterior stucco is applied directly to the bricks and interior plaster is applied onto a leveling layer of cement. There are no exterior moldings just stucco returns; likewise, there are no interior moldings, just plaster returns. The windows are mounted in the middle of the wall cavity. I have Anderson 100 windows with weep holes at the bottom and windows are caulked on all 4 sides. I am considering European style windows in a similarly constructed house that I am remodeling (including 2" of exterior insulation). Your video was very enlightening, but I was confused by the barrier system that you explained. It seemed like you were doing a combination of water management and barrier systems since you were setting the window on a raised cavity to allow water to escape under the window. For my type of construction, is it advisable to still use a permeable perimeter seal on both the interior and exterior if it is partially or completely covered with the stucco and plaster returns?
The windows used in the US (even the high end ones) are like something from the 1800's in comparison to the European tilt turn windows. They are pricey but you get what you pay for. I have used several US made brands including Anderson (horrible) and Hurd and Pella (much better) but even the Hurd and Pella is not even in the same league as the European windows. I am now changing 8 windows and will change the rest as $$ allows
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Agreed. One of my coworkers got quotes for triple pane all wood windows from Fenstur Windows and they were amazingly affordable. They were cost competitive to American windows and cheaper in some cases. All for a much better window. I really don't see a reason to use American style windows anymore.
@@BenWolkWeiss Fenstur are Canadian though. Although they are of great quality they are still 15-20% more expensive than equivalent or even slightly better European made from Italy or Spain. In Italy and Spain, and I would add central Europe, they produce some of the best wood & alu clad windows in the world. Also Fenstur at the moment has a very long lead time of over 6 months. From Europe you get wood and aluminum at 3 months lead time and ePVC in less than 8 weeks.
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 I second that. I normally get quotes for ePVC, Alu and Wood Alu Clad, with shipping included which are 20% less expensive than domestic windows.
Did he say glass is cheap but frames are expensive? I've always been told if I wanted a big opening it's cheaper if it was broken up with multiple smaller windows which would make it have many more frames.
In America you have of the shelf windows in standard sizes. That means 3 of those standard sized windows are cheaper then the custom build one. That was also explained in the video. In Europe manufacturing is more aligned for custom sized (many old houses and hard to resize the window size) basically there is no standard size for windows. Now cost of production between most common size windows and custom size is not different. only cost of material. As long as you stay below the maximum size for a glass pane, glass is cheap. if you want a 20 foot by 10 foot pane it will become VERY expensive. and the frame is more complex meaning more expensive to produce. Meaning what you remember is true for America, not for Europe.
You made a comment about tape on the inside. What would you suggest or what have you used. As a note love your channel. Thank you both of you. I have just got through installing my. EAS windows and doors. I've got it covered outside, but I did not think about the inside.
Aluminum frame and triple glazed glass and pretty big window , i bet that was heavy I did work with windows in Europe , but always installed it in a brick walls and really thick ones but with these wooden frame houses it looks harder just becose of the water isolation. in here the biggiest pain was always a older house that had like these double windows and really thick walls , so you cut into the huge wooden frame of the window then use crowbar to break it out in the end the result is very nice becose you have that huge inside parapet that you can use for flowers or even sit there and talk with neibour if you are at ground level :D
Anybody know what US windows have the hangers option? I can't even find them for sale?? I am now trying to find any other window that can use these hangers because I am doing a replacement into brick. Help please.
Steve is my kind of architect, blue jeans, tee shirt, and red converse. 👍 It’s a real shame we still don’t have good window manufacturers here in the US. If we had the courage and knowledge to change our standards to higher performance products like these windows I’ve got to believe the price point would come down for better products like this. We could save enough energy to fly John Kerry to DeVoss.
Agreed, everyone is so dam keen on getting Passive Houses and such built - just imagine if we made the 1.3 million homes built in America just 20%or 25% better.....
in the minute 16:01 you see the aluminium frame composed of the outer frame and the inner frame(of closest to the glass. We have these type of windows , we have draught entering the house through this gap. terrible thing anyone got an idea about how to solve it?
How do you flash this window with vertical metal siding? Just normal J-Channels on top and sides, wider flashing under the window? This window is usually installed recessed about 10cm/4inches with wooden cladding where im from.
As a European with a background in construction I love this channel for two main resons: 1. Seeing Matt and his colleagues nerd out about European style windows and insulation, both of which are the standard for decades around here (Germany). 2. Learning new things about American style wood construction and how to proof it against the elements. Here we mostly build with brick and mortar or concrete elements which has it advantages but also a lot things that can go wrong if done incorrectly. But wood construction seems to be on the rise here as well in recent years, even if it's not US style most of the times.
@buildshow Would there be a benefit to securing the mounting clips facing the outside of the window frame for a mid-frame install? If I build using ICF @FoxBlocks 8" core, I'll have a 14" deep frame (with exterior furring).
1:03 - Are you sure in Europe if you said, "I want a window that's four feet, three and one eighth" they wouldn't just sneer at you and tell you to learn the metric system? 🙃
Great video as usual. I remember you used some two pane and triple pane windows in your own house based on location. What is the typical amount of time you spend with your clients discussing windows. Loved the tip on taping the inside metal brackets. With any luck my builder will have that quality of detail when I build in 2025 unless you move to OH and will gladly hire you.
Great video, I'll be installing these windows for the first time very soon. Wish I could get that Zip tape, I'm in Argentina and the best I can do is gaffer tape :(
Do you guys have to install fire cavity closers or barriers around windows and between floors? The UK has gone crazy with this any cavity needs fire closets so even the air space behind cladding/sidings is considered a cavity so you have the confusing state where you have to ventilate the space to prevent condensation but also prevent fire spread! What are you thoughts on it?
We have similar requirements in the US, it's typically known as "fire blocking" here. It's required between floors and no more than 10 feet vertically within certain wall types. A lot of times this blocking serves a dual purpose as both shear/fire blocking and is installed at 8ft on center to allow for edge nailing of the sheathing. Hope this answers your question!
I am curious, why does the tape go over the vertical rain screen furring strips on the side of the rough opening? I would have assumed you would install the furring strips after with the zip being the WRB. Is the window flush with the furring strips or the sheathing?
I actually like the idea of flangless windows as it allows a more ideal depth setting for different rain screen and sheathing options. I'm a fan of the liquid flash VS the tapes because I just have doubts about the adhesive of the tapes lasting 30 or 40 years do it lifts up. On the other hand, who knows if the liquid stuff won't stiffen and crack in the same time? Hard to engineer for multi-generational like Matt is supporting.
Super appreciate your content Matt, also really appreciate getting emails every Tuesday and Friday. Wealth of knowledge!!!
Appreciate that Ken! Thanks for watching. Together we are changing the expectations for American homes!
@@buildshow European windows are not tested to US air and water standards as wind and water are much more extreme than Europe. Architects typically are clueless on envelope sealing and air and water tightness. Steve relies on tapes that seem positive on the application, but will eventually fail in adhesion vs stepping water control.
@@newsnowadirondacksredux360 They could encase it with architectural sheet metal methods, the RUclips channel "architectural sheet metal 101" is a pretty decent resource for learning to fold. Really though the tape should last a while if not punctured, it's not exposed to UV rays, and Steve said the weather is pretty good where that house is.
@@newsnowadirondacksredux360 I think this house would rather be blown away by a tornado than something happen to this window
This is pure holy grail of knowledge. Matt, please take a note and do NOT forget to make part 2 to show us all the details regarding sealing and overall finishing and water proofing. Thank you and Steve.
Amen on that!
It's more of a Comercial than anything. I keep waiting for the part where they install
They broke the mold with Steve...architect and building scientist in one package. Superb content guys.
The videos with Steve are my favorites.
@@toddniehaus Mine too lol - Seriously, thank you gents!!
how is any architect and building scientist not always one package?
@@shaunfogarty3020 I suppose when they put profits over quality
Awesome. I’d like to see more about how that install finishes with the rain screen
I read the entire Ryan's ruclips.net/user/postUgkxGqOCINHE0Z0E5gxzSdNi9NWGugRY5Hm2 Plans and was able to make a shed plan. Using Ryan's Shed Plans alone, the shed itself is great. Where I wish I knew more is with respect to ground preparation and foundations. Maybe that's beyond the scope of Ryan's Shed Plans.
I really hope there is a part two to this. I’d love to see the process of how the exterior trim is applied and sealed to the window especially along the bottom.
Is there any part II? Obviously this was the easy step. Interior and especially exterior finish is the most demanding.
In Germany all our windows open, so we can install just the frame without heavy glass. We then level the bottom on some shims, hold the sides plumb and fix the window in position with the designated full thread screws from the inside of the frame. Foam, tape and done.
I would also like to see 1) water management method, and 2) how to finish window exterior. Thanks Matt
The reason why there are very little standard sized windows in Europe is that most of new windows are installed in old buildings and they don't have uniform window openings. Many buildings are over 130 years old. Additionally nearly all new windows have roll up binders built in.
I had a contractor installing these windows up here in CO . Seeing that gap between the frame and window made me do a double take 😳Knowing Matt and Steve approve of these clips, etc made me sleep better at night! 😀
Coming from the UK, these (well, UPVC) are standard practice - just framed in some for clients on a 2x8 exterior wall with a triple glazed package 😏
We still ride horses to work
@@VideovigilanteUSA they still play soccer
I’ve ordered similar windows from overseas and specified an additional piece of continuous aluminum angle to be attached to the frame to recreate a nail fin.
Angle size is 1/2x2” and it fits into side extrusion where you inserted mounting brackets.
It does add up in labor but helps to maintain consistent depth
Here in the UK, it’s common practice, with timber framed walls and that style of window, to wrap the membrane inside the window opening and staple it around the inner edge of wall to protect the timber window surround from any water intrusion.
That's no different than how it's framed in the USA, in this case instead of house wrap they're using ZIP sheathing which is OSB (plywood made from wood chips) that's coated with a weather barrier on it so it's integral to the sheathing. Even when wrapping to the inside that doesn't really protect the wood as you usually cut diagonally from the corners so it's always unprotected there and that's also generally where windows will leak water. The stretch tape on the bottom will adhere directly to the wood so there's no gaps where water can flow underneath it and I think they said they were going to be adding additional flashing shingled on top of the zip tape so it's way more protected than the traditional fold of house wrap stapled to the inside.
great video; I made this design choice 5 years ago without much real knowledge or experience and now I actually learned that I got it right.
Learning building science with each video. Thank you Matt
Nice to hear some common sense about the importance of eave overhangs. Frustratingly, where I live in Australia, our new pending energy code is discouraging eaves and encouraging dark colored walls. You need to come down here and explain a few things to our rule makers.
Dark colored walls to retain more heat and help warm the earth?
Steve, Matt,
I just love all the deep details!
Well done!
Cheers, Eric
I just finished my UPVC window and door installs. You can use Tilt and Turn profiles as doors. I have one for the laundry but people use them on their balcony. I chose Aluplast
I'm interested in finding out the cost difference and lead times.
Well done! Greetings from Poland, where Aluprof is rooted
How do you handle the outside of the window in terms of your cladding? I’m used to flanged windows where you just but your cladding up to the window. I’m trying to wrap my head around that detail.
I live in Europe as a native Californian and it amazes me how temporary our homes in the US are vs in Europe or in fact most other countries. Europeans tell me stories of when they visited the US and being a soar using cardboard (Sheetrock) for almost everything. They also are confused by our measurements 2”x4” isn’t really that size. Lol
wtf are you talking about, I'm from Europe and Sheetrock is the norm here. It's just other brand names. Been that way for decades.
PLEASE SHOW US THE OUTSIDE FINAL TRIM DETAIL!!!
yeah very interested in seeing how the siding finishes around the window
Steve nailed the closing!
I really want to see the flashing detail in the outside. How do you span the gap? Do you flash directly to the window, across the foam, and on to the wood? I did some with liquid flashing this way, but I want to see you guys do it
I need to see the final finish of that install in and out.
could you do a segment on german tilt and turn windows as well as european shutter blinds?
Especially the shutter blinds, those are absolutely awesome. Even if I have to install them myself going to have those. I think I read U.S. doesnt use them because of fire and EU uses a lot more cement than our wood frames. Going to Denver just to look at some I think the store sells.
@@wagonwheeldc As a German i think it is worth it. the different mounting methods, the positiv and negativ impact on insulation, fire saftey, automation,... I think there is a lot to talk about.
But it might not be easy for an American in America to get someone to talk about all of this.
I’ve never installed these windows but European style tilt turns are becoming my favorite for when I self build.
I lived two years in Switzerland and experienced the simple pleasure of European doors and windows. Vastly superior to their American counterparts.
Would love to find out more about the pluses and minuses of installing windows in the middle of walls vs. the outside or inside. Is there an existing video you can point me to, or is a new video forthcoming on this subject? I'm in the process of installing "European windows" on my house (I live in Europe and we don't call them that here), and since I'm trying to get my house as close to passive house standards as possible, I'd love to make sure my new windows are installed at the right depth from the exterior wall surface. Thanks in advance!
I wish I had this video this spring when I installed the windows in my first house build. I couldn’t find a good installation guide, and had to figure it out on my own. And as someone who isn’t a carpenter I can say that the installation is really simple once you know what you’re doing.
I've had so many lawsuits where the no flange windows installed over wood frame has caused water intrusion. Very interesting to see a no flange system!
That has everything to do with weather seal and barrier layers.
I have water tested very many of my installs and never have had a leak......
Hey Matt, Thanks for all amazing tips and content overall. This is coming from South Florida region and here it is primarily a concrete block construction, do you have ability to show how to build airtight homes and best insulation practices for that type of construction?
look at some older episodes if I remember he has a few vids about putting zip over concrete block
Sign have a tape that sticks to window and block, then gets plastered over it.
Siga i meant not sign
Another great video Matt
Keep up the great work
Maybe ok for use in contemporary homes where the fenestration doesn't matter so much, but really large expanses of glass doesn't work well with traditional architecture.
Then use stick on strips to make them look like seperate (inefficient) windows.
Just because on that example they use modern style windows, doesn‘t mean you don‘t get those in traditional style. E.g. you can order them with lattice, integrated or added on top of the glas. You get also wood windows with triple glas - cheaper and with better insulation values then the on in the video.
Interesting, my 120 yr old house had new windows installed in 1978: they're all wood, flips open for cleaning and airing, and are relatively energy efficient as they have doble glass filled with argon gass in the vacuum. Still better than any modern US made windows?? (I live in Norway).
10 years ago, I lived nearby Aluprof factory and i wouldn't believe that Polish made windows would be installed in USA.
I’m doing a similar install with flangeless windows, but I’m recessing them so the frames will be flush with my interior drywall. My installer is recommending stainless steel sill pans on all 20+ windows which seems like overkill to me and very costly. The windows sit on the back dam and I’ll slope the sills in front just like Steve said he was going to do. I also have large eaves ranging from 2’ to 5’. Should I overrule the window guy?
Yep!
But where will your kitty cats lay down?
Tink Tink..... Tink Tink.... Thud thud. 😂 How did Steve not slap Matt?
Essve level screw at the bottom and adjufix on the sides, for wooden frames in norway/scandinavia😅 Just remeber to wedge too, if not you are depending on the trim to keep the frame square and in place ..
translation plz
What's up with fiberglass and vinyl windows said to last (only) 30 years? I have wood windows installed in 1927.
Nice! But how would you have finished the outside if you weren't doing a "barrier" method? Three sided tap with none at the bottom and backeerod with caulk on the inside?
We love Steve Baczek! Super shaky camera was nauseating.
The Build Show With Gusto,Killer ending and Video...👍👍
Love It!!!
This is so super super helpful. In continental Europe, most windows are 'in-betweenies' without any flashing. They mainly rely on caulking to prevent water seep in between the window frame and the wall. These inevitably get some moisture or water seepage in bottom corners during windy rains. Any tips on how to prevent such seepages from bottom corners without removing the windows entirely and reinstall over tape flashing?
Lol, off camera Matt: " No!!! On the build show, thats my part!!!".
I wish to see the process on exterior too!
How the window look and is finished on outside.
Do you have any link that I can check on it?
super informative. Thanks guys great work.
Videos like this one feel like they are cut a bit short, e.g. the taping that was discussed at the end but not shown. Posting a follow-up video to each of these that's not a production video but hits on these details would be nice. One option in RUclips is to publish a public video but not syndicate it out to your subscribers on the subs feed or via notifications (if you'd like to keep the "production" videos be the ones featured there), so you could then link to that longer video at the end of the "main" one.
What profile is it? Alurpof MB-86?
So is this instead of screwing the windows in through the frame?
Yes.
Seems great for renovating. Is that "European Architecture Supply" friendly to DIY? Or is there an alternative/American version?
Some US window makers have adopted those European style models. So you can get American made "European" windows. They only import the mechanical components, frame and glass are US made.
And yes it is very DIY friendly.
A Storefront System
Update: I'm working with Seemray in Cleveland OH; so far so good. Everyone else I tried wouldn't service my 'small' 12 window order.
Would be interesting to see how a pocket install is detailed on the outside. These are some of the hardest things to get right. Is there a video you did or recommend?
Go check out the video Matt did at the Pond House II of mine, where the windows were inside the RO
nice to see some domestic-to-me products on this channel (from Poland)
It would really be nice to see a follow-up video showing the sealing and finishing around the edges (I know others have asked for that). Based on this video indicating that the windows will be flush with the exterior sheathing, I cannot see how they can be sealed and finished nicely.
do you caulk the trim on both sides? to the window and to the siding? I would love to see a bread down of a finished install
I live in a desert environment. My current house is solid brick construction, i.e., no wood or cinder blocks and unfortunately no insulation. Exterior stucco is applied directly to the bricks and interior plaster is applied onto a leveling layer of cement. There are no exterior moldings just stucco returns; likewise, there are no interior moldings, just plaster returns. The windows are mounted in the middle of the wall cavity. I have Anderson 100 windows with weep holes at the bottom and windows are caulked on all 4 sides.
I am considering European style windows in a similarly constructed house that I am remodeling (including 2" of exterior insulation). Your video was very enlightening, but I was confused by the barrier system that you explained. It seemed like you were doing a combination of water management and barrier systems since you were setting the window on a raised cavity to allow water to escape under the window. For my type of construction, is it advisable to still use a permeable perimeter seal on both the interior and exterior if it is partially or completely covered with the stucco and plaster returns?
Watching this right after Brent’s 100 year window has me all sorts of emotions lol
Amazing content ! Well done !
That outro shattered some windows🤣
The windows used in the US (even the high end ones) are like something from the 1800's in comparison to the European tilt turn windows. They are pricey but you get what you pay for. I have used several US made brands including Anderson (horrible) and Hurd and Pella (much better) but even the Hurd and Pella is not even in the same league as the European windows. I am now changing 8 windows and will change the rest as $$ allows
They are suprisingly not that costly.....
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Agreed. One of my coworkers got quotes for triple pane all wood windows from Fenstur Windows and they were amazingly affordable. They were cost competitive to American windows and cheaper in some cases. All for a much better window. I really don't see a reason to use American style windows anymore.
@@BenWolkWeiss Fenstur are Canadian though.
Although they are of great quality they are still 15-20% more expensive than equivalent or even slightly better European made from Italy or Spain. In Italy and Spain, and I would add central Europe, they produce some of the best wood & alu clad windows in the world. Also Fenstur at the moment has a very long lead time of over 6 months. From Europe you get wood and aluminum at 3 months lead time and ePVC in less than 8 weeks.
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 I second that.
I normally get quotes for ePVC, Alu and Wood Alu Clad, with shipping included which are 20% less expensive than domestic windows.
Hi! We bought this windows from China and did not come with the clips 😩 where can I buy the clips from?
don't needed, most models can be screwed from inside.
Did he say glass is cheap but frames are expensive? I've always been told if I wanted a big opening it's cheaper if it was broken up with multiple smaller windows which would make it have many more frames.
Not true for European windows, a 9'w X 5'h window is way cheaper than (3) 3'w X 5'h
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Hmmm I guess I'll have to price out Euro windows on my house then.
In America you have of the shelf windows in standard sizes. That means 3 of those standard sized windows are cheaper then the custom build one. That was also explained in the video.
In Europe manufacturing is more aligned for custom sized (many old houses and hard to resize the window size) basically there is no standard size for windows. Now cost of production between most common size windows and custom size is not different. only cost of material. As long as you stay below the maximum size for a glass pane, glass is cheap. if you want a 20 foot by 10 foot pane it will become VERY expensive. and the frame is more complex meaning more expensive to produce.
Meaning what you remember is true for America, not for Europe.
You made a comment about tape on the inside. What would you suggest or what have you used. As a note love your channel. Thank you both of you. I have just got through installing my. EAS windows and doors. I've got it covered outside, but I did not think about the inside.
They are good for ICF recessed windows.
3:05 You can also have wood textures.
thanks! Very helpful for our new build.
Aluminum frame and triple glazed glass and pretty big window , i bet that was heavy
I did work with windows in Europe , but always installed it in a brick walls and really thick ones but with these wooden frame houses it looks harder just becose of the water isolation.
in here the biggiest pain was always a older house that had like these double windows and really thick walls , so you cut into the huge wooden frame of the window then use crowbar to break it out
in the end the result is very nice becose you have that huge inside parapet that you can use for flowers or even sit there and talk with neibour if you are at ground level :D
Anybody know what US windows have the hangers option? I can't even find them for sale??
I am now trying to find any other window that can use these hangers because I am doing a replacement into brick. Help please.
Here’s to all the homeowners DIYers watching this stuff for fun!
Steve is my kind of architect, blue jeans, tee shirt, and red converse. 👍 It’s a real shame we still don’t have good window manufacturers here in the US. If we had the courage and knowledge to change our standards to higher performance products like these windows I’ve got to believe the price point would come down for better products like this. We could save enough energy to fly John Kerry to DeVoss.
Agreed, everyone is so dam keen on getting Passive Houses and such built - just imagine if we made the 1.3 million homes built in America just 20%or 25% better.....
where can I purchase the metal strap that secure the windows to the frame?
in the minute 16:01 you see the aluminium frame composed of the outer frame and the inner frame(of closest to the glass. We have these type of windows , we have draught entering the house through this gap. terrible thing anyone got an idea about how to solve it?
Much nicer windows with Alu outside and wood inside, in Europe. Danke, Herr Risinger. :)
Has anyone used this style as a replacement window given they have no flanges?
These windows are fixed. Do they use double-hung and casement-style windows?
Tilt turn
Where do they get window clips for install please
How do you flash this window with vertical metal siding? Just normal J-Channels on top and sides, wider flashing under the window? This window is usually installed recessed about 10cm/4inches with wooden cladding where im from.
Do you have a link to where I can buy the window straps? Also are the straps universal or brand / window specific?
As a European with a background in construction I love this channel for two main resons:
1. Seeing Matt and his colleagues nerd out about European style windows and insulation, both of which are the standard for decades around here (Germany).
2. Learning new things about American style wood construction and how to proof it against the elements.
Here we mostly build with brick and mortar or concrete elements which has it advantages but also a lot things that can go wrong if done incorrectly. But wood construction seems to be on the rise here as well in recent years, even if it's not US style most of the times.
@buildshow Would there be a benefit to securing the mounting clips facing the outside of the window frame for a mid-frame install? If I build using ICF @FoxBlocks 8" core, I'll have a 14" deep frame (with exterior furring).
1:03 - Are you sure in Europe if you said, "I want a window that's four feet, three and one eighth" they wouldn't just sneer at you and tell you to learn the metric system? 🙃
This is Texas!!! lol
sure we do that but we use our own feet to convert
Great video as usual. I remember you used some two pane and triple pane windows in your own house based on location. What is the typical amount of time you spend with your clients discussing windows. Loved the tip on taping the inside metal brackets. With any luck my builder will have that quality of detail when I build in 2025 unless you move to OH and will gladly hire you.
What is the size on the rough opening? is it a 1/2" all the way around? hard to tell from the video
Did i miss something or is the air barrier between the window and the outside of the Zip sheathing not connected?
Are these Miami Dade rated for hurricanes?
Good question...
4by 6 window, do you allow for 1/8 inch for a tight fit?
Great video, I'll be installing these windows for the first time very soon. Wish I could get that Zip tape, I'm in Argentina and the best I can do is gaffer tape :(
Where would someone buy those types of clips?
Do you guys have to install fire cavity closers or barriers around windows and between floors? The UK has gone crazy with this any cavity needs fire closets so even the air space behind cladding/sidings is considered a cavity so you have the confusing state where you have to ventilate the space to prevent condensation but also prevent fire spread! What are you thoughts on it?
We have similar requirements in the US, it's typically known as "fire blocking" here. It's required between floors and no more than 10 feet vertically within certain wall types. A lot of times this blocking serves a dual purpose as both shear/fire blocking and is installed at 8ft on center to allow for edge nailing of the sheathing. Hope this answers your question!
Does anybody know where to get the window clips for these type of windows?
Great content like always Matt! Something seems up with your camera though. It’s crazy shaky.
me too! is too shaky! I just listen!
I am curious, why does the tape go over the vertical rain screen furring strips on the side of the rough opening? I would have assumed you would install the furring strips after with the zip being the WRB. Is the window flush with the furring strips or the sheathing?
11:40 - "Let's cut here to another opening...", next shot: Same opening. :D
What a beauty video 👍
LOL, ON THE BUILD SHOW!!!!
What do you do when there is a broken window?
same as usa windows, replace the glass.
I actually like the idea of flangless windows as it allows a more ideal depth setting for different rain screen and sheathing options. I'm a fan of the liquid flash VS the tapes because I just have doubts about the adhesive of the tapes lasting 30 or 40 years do it lifts up. On the other hand, who knows if the liquid stuff won't stiffen and crack in the same time? Hard to engineer for multi-generational like Matt is supporting.
Which direction is Y and X when explaining the ratio of soffit to top of window?
X always HOR