I've been in the trades for almost 20 years, built houses, flipped houses, renovated top to bottom, commercial and residential, and worked with hundreds of sub trades. I still find it overwhelming at the sheer amount of systems and products that exist to do the same thing. As for what's best? Forget about it, you'll never know, nor will any contractor. What complicates things further is 4 contractors will give you 4 different ways to install the same product. Even for an experienced guy, It can be frustrating and anxiety enducing to make the best choice and to know whether the job is being done correctly or not.
How so? Because different options exist that makes it harder? I love it. Different systems for different requirements and budgets. It doesn't add any anxiety for me. I'd rather have options than just make it up as ingo
All the products are to screw the americans out of there money. Plenty of old houses with no fancy products with no problems. Rissinger charges 5k to put a window in
I have a house under construction and they installed the windows just this week. I was actually very surprised they did nothing in the way of a sill pan or taping the house wrap before installing the windows. Is the best and only thing I can do after the fact to weather seal the edges of the window? Suggestions? I should have them take the windows out and do it the right way!
I think I saw Matt do a little building there, nice to see him get his hands dirty....hammers like a manager too. All joking aside, love the videos, working backwards and watching the old ones too. Thank you for sharing all the knowledge, and helping us to build better
Exactly how I did my windows two years ago. After two winter's I can say the extra work was worth it. Not just financially in energy savings but in comfort and sound control as well.
Great video. I totally agree that windows can cause a lot of problems. I had a company come in and put in double pane windows but they were not careful in sealing around the window. I had to redo the window to keep the water out and used a number of your videos to do the work since I am learning as I go. Thank you for the info.
Excellent video on the proper flashing methods with the best products on the market. The real problem is, what are the chances that the average builders are going to be that thorough in the process? More than likely not, which is why no matter how great these products are it always boils down to the final installer and their particular expertise, or lack of it.
I totally understand the concept and 100% would do this if I had a coastal house where the possibility of high winds or hurricane could drive the water sideways but the beginning seems like overkill .
You guys are pros and you typically direct your information to other pros, but as a layman, I appreciate that you provide a how-to that doesn't assume we are all pros, you explain every detail and why you do it. Thanks! Do you have earlier videos that explain the framing as well?
Thanks for mentioning the 5 degree positive slope with frame sill! Previously, I was looking into sill pans such as suresill (the original frame sill did not have this positive slope). I will look to sanding this slope on frame sill - per explanation of your work
As a contractor in swfl I agree with the way you approach the sill and no sealant on the bottom flange but I find that if a use a good bead of elastomeric caulk to adhear the window directly to the zip sheathing. this is adhearing the window to the framing making it structural and not relying on the adhesion of the zip tape . Because all you did was adhear the window to the zip tape. A bead of quality elastomeric sealant between window flange and sheathing and then zip tape over the flange after. All in all good videos
Nice video. I literally just complained on some window install videos about them not taping the sides and top because that would allow air that comes up from the bottom of the window (since that part isn't taped or sealed) to get behind the house wrap, which defeats the purpose of house wrap as an air barrier. I understand here you're using Zip but then air could get in where the window jamb and the zip meet. Happy to see you guys put tape on that.
This is the method we teach all of the carpenter apprentices and truly is the best method. It helps with air leakage and water penetration both. It would be nice if the whole industry would be using the same method whether it’s Tyvek, zip system or any other mechanically applied system.
Building a house for the first time and finding your videos very informative Matt. Just found out the framer did not put zip tape around the window frame before placing the window. And btw the tape that he did put around the windows after was ripped out by the roofer because he was short of tape. Is this common practice?
Funny, I worked for Jeld awen in their Darlington, UK factory about 14 years ago! Worked 10 weeks after leaving Uni assembling double glazing units. Haven't thought about that time in years.
I love the detail. Here in the UK we just slap in a plastic frame 10mm smaller than the opening, a few concrete screws through the frame from the inside and then expanding foam the gap. You have a much drier climate and go to all this trouble to waterproof. I suppose you have to for wooden houses.
@@bobs6129 I've never fitted a skylight but when I saw the builders working on next door I didn't see them use foam. I think they possibly come with a sealing kit included
For the time and necessity to be very specific with getting the tape to conform around all corners and edges, I prefer to just use liquid flash around the entire opening, covering the entire jamb. It’s a little more expensive, BUT for the end result and lack of headaches it’s so worth it!
I agree hands down. Matt has since used fluid applied flashing abd weather barrier on a couple homes with tremendous results. Have you seen the air sealing vapor that’s implemented by filling the homes interior air space with the air sealant and doing a blower door by blowing the air towards the outside wgich in turn blows the air sealant to the extrusions which seals the tiny holes that would’ve typically been avoided because of the inability to find every tiny air gap. It’s stuff like that wgich brings me back to the build show over just aboit anything else being put out to learn from. Matt is doing what he loves and is doing a fine job if you ask me. I learn something in every video.
Good video Matt and I love how you recommend using tape abundantly. But really, Jeld Wen? I know you either got them for free or at discount, but their sealing mechanism is not same as the other higher end ... Jeld Wen reminds me of Champion windows, and we know where that company is now. You should maybe do a video on selecting windows, because even with the name brands, such as Marvin, they have different lines and one should be careful in selection. FYI, Most carpenters will NOT angle the bottom window sill ~5% ... time consuming, so, sealing this area all around is important. I would recommend showing no wood around the seal. Tape it then use liquid Zip to tape exposed wood. I love the flex Zip tape!
Great video,awesome content. Way too many ads. 4 in 25 minutes? My only gripe, which really isn't much. Keep up the good work. I'm getting ready to build my next house, so all the pro tips really help.
you don’t have a continuous air barrier with this install, would leak air, cause condensation build up and would not meet the building code. the bottom flange needs to tied into the zip flashing with the peel and stick. Windows have drainage built into the sill frame.
The drainage is for water that might get behind the window and pool on the sill pan if it was taped. My builder has the same concern about cold air coming in in winter and causing condensation.
Matt comes across as the guy who couldn't play football or baseball but knows the rule book. Bill comes across like he played football and baseball and knows the rule book.
Nice video giys!...Nail every hole in the flang guys! If the nail flang is crimping up your setting the nails too hard. Center a window in the RO from outside. Slide the window to one side make a pencil mark by the flange then slide the window all the way to the other side of the RO make a mark. Next slide the window over and split the difference between your two pencil Mark's!
If you'll be adding 1" foam board exterior insulation, then furring strips and siding, what order do you do the window flashing, window install with nailing flange? I have seen videos with the foam already in place before the stretch tape and flashing tape, etc. Your thoughts?
Matt, Ive been in construction 30+ years now mainly in Texas with degrees in architecture and landscape architecture and added selling custom standing seam metal roofing 2.5 years ago to the things I do...I just can't get on board with any kind of particle board sheathing. Zip is an intetesting product but the only place I've even seen it installed to spec is on your videos. If they sold the coating material seperately I'd be all about that. Particle board sheathing of any kind just does not hold up to moisture that is inevitable. I do really enjoy your videos though.
it is not particle board! "Oriented strand board (OSB) is an engineered wood product formed by rectangular wood strands (flakes) arranged in cross-oriented layers with the help of waterproof adhesives. The result is a structural engineered wood panel similar to plywood in strength and performance, but more uniform and less expensive."
@@RaulTorresMorfin yes it is OSB...that is a form of particle board, friend. I know exactly how it is made. Actually toured a plant once to see it made. And it isn't really that less expensive anymore on the front-end...and very expensive to repair on the back end.
Matt has talked on some of the videos about going to plywood when he's able, or in some cases for the lower courses of sheathing to provide additional protection. I think this makes sense. I am about to do some sheathing on my own home and am weighing the options. My preference at the moment is good plywood with fluid applied, but it's also the most costly option. I'm in Florida, so strong wind-driven rain is a given. ZIP is hard to get in my area anyway so it may not be feasible for me.
How do you attach siding to the zip system without making holes in the zip system from the fasteners, seams a little counter productive to do all the water proofing than just drive nails into it to hold siding.
Doubt this will be seen, but I work residential construction and remodeling seasonally and I have never used or seen the Zip System before. But I was driving back from the hardware store (or somewhere, don't remember) and I finally saw a house going up using it. I do have to say, it does look a lot better than Tyvek like we normally use. Too bad it doesn't get seen.
In general, what does the top flashing add over the already taped seam besides a few extra nail holes through the tape? Is water really going to navigate up below the lower level of tape? If so, won't it do so even with the extra layer of flashing?
It does not affect air leakage because there is a backer rod and caulking used on the inside for air sealing. Low expansion spray foam and tape is another method.
Essentially leaving an air gap under the bottom of the install. I understand to allow water to escape. Would you seal the inside of the window with caulking to make air right from the inside?
Matt uses a lot of great products which makes for a very well built house. The only downside is the cost of all of this. You could quickly turn a $150/sf home into $250/sf which really is cost prohibitive to a lot of people.
Awesome content like always. Maybe you could start another series showing bill in how to videos, focused on proper installation of energy sensitive building components and others. I think it will be very beneficial.
The angled sills are your "old school" framing technique that duh-works!🤣😉 I'm due for a sill rebuild, but of course I'm only going to have gypsum-I'm guessing this poly tech tape needs to stick with poly home wrap-new construction only? I can't afford to tear off my aluminum and whip out the expanding foam and wrap. Lol
My contractor just installed my paradigm windows and all they used is a piece of zip tape on the bottom area nothing else. I’m using zip boards with foam insulation should’ve it been covered top to bottom with tape?
Nice! I'm taking notes on this for when I replace some old windows in my house (I'll be pulling back the vinyl siding a little to do some taping as the siding and house wrap were installed after windows were in). The nail-holding tip came in handy. I wonder if that much taping is needed on a shed window. LOL.
If you cut the bottom window sil at a 5 degree downward sloping angle, how do you seat the window plumb in the opening? Or is he saying the entire window will be installed at a 5 degree angle?
Nice, clear video. Lucky to have sponsors giving you free materials like windows and sheathing... But Bill let the cat out of the bag about the longevity of the stretch tape - said something like "sometimes the tape will curl and it's ok to use a staple to hold the corners down". Which is an admission that even new stretch tape installations can quickly fail - imagine what happens once the cladding/stucco goes on and it's out of sight. I'd like to see how well stretch tape survives 10-20 years of scorching heat and freezing cycles. I feel liquid flashing the sill is the true best practice. And I don't think adding tape to sides and top of window is necessary before window installation - it's superfluous since you caulk and apply tape after the window is installed. I suspect it's undesirable to have multiple layers of tape on top of each other in any event. Bill also said something not well understood - that water can (and does) run uphill if there's driving wind and/or pressure imbalances. I live on a hillside and despite overhangs, have had wind-driven rain drive water up over 6" of flashing.
I went to Home Depot to take a look at the ZIP product. The employee there told me that they have sold very little since stocking the sheathing. The price is about thirty dollars for the 5/8" size, and about twenty for the thinner size. Reading in other places, I see that Huber is apparently aggressively protecting their patent by challenging any manufacturer who produces a sheathing that is remotely similar. Researching the vapor permeability of the ZIP coating and the OSB substrate, as well as the performance in real-world conditions, I have the impression that painted OSB would perform as well. Some builders advise using half-inch plywood for sheathing with a quality house wrap instead.
Yeah the costs are outrageous now, we used osb and house wrap, but put the zip system on the roof, I'm a remodeling contractor but this is my first new build. I think the painted osb is not a bad idea except that code would require you to put on the house wrap as with the zip system you don't since the patent company gets code approval, no corruption there, lol
@@Zimbob2424 Thanks for your reply, Bill. Since I wrote that original comment, those ZIP products must be two or three time higher in price now! After further investigation, it appears that the ZIP sheeting is in fact coated with an oil-based paint. On a large build, the reduced time and instant protection from weather are likely to be a significant value. To experiment with alternatives, I am using an elastomeric "siliconizer" coating on thin plywood for a shed project.
There are multiple sheet goods from manufacturers now that are very similar to zip. Of course they cost more coated, but that cost is coming down for all of these type products.
@@christopherhaak9824 Thanks for your reply. ZIP system itself has come down significantly. Both big box stores have much more manageable prices lately.
Thank you for the great content. Can you please clarify why the bottom of the window does not get sealed/liquid flashed? Won't keeping the bottom open contradict the concept of making an air tight house and also get worse results on a blower door test?
Just something to help out with the waterproofing - unless your window is literally tight within like 1/16 or 1/8 to the frame, making those corners that tight (especially with that comment about stapling it) is not necessary. However, a backlip for that wrap would be very useful. I speak as a window installer for a major American company working in the rainy, super wet PNW (our installs are lifetime warrantied, longer than our glass, and this is on remodels).
If anyone could please answer a question for me: Don't the shims at the bottom flange, as well as the lack of any caulking at the bottom flange guarantee a breach in the air barrier? It seems like, for the sake of leak drainage, we just left a permanent hole in our house. How and where does the bottom flange get an air seal?
I learned a few things today ，5 degree bevel of the sill ，caulking before putting the Windows up，tape after nail too。I am going to install 3 Windows for a small new house for a charity 。 bow with respect 。🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻😁
Hey Matt! Very thorough installation video! We're planning to install a Cor-A-Vent Rainscreen between our ZIP R-Sheathing and vertical wood siding. Could you explain how that system should interface with the ZIP Tape/Flashing around the windows and window trim? Thanks!
These being relatively new products, I wonder how many decades the adhesives will last before drying out? Obviously even if they do dry out, it's better than the old method of nothing, but just makes me curious. What will it look like in 30 years, 50 years?
Did i heard good....there is no culking at the bottom, and you leave a gap for the water to come out in case...sooo there is not air tide or seal a 100 % ??
how long can the adhesive on the tape be expected to last, especially when applied to a substrate that isn't free of dust, that can expand/contract with weather conditions
I love all this re-learning new info on flashing and water-sealing of your videos. But I have to ask, the long-term life of these products, will they be another future "abatement" product? Asbestos shingles were amazing for homes in the 50's/60's. But who knew that cutting them (frangible) or breaking them were to be a hazard. These adhesives, membranes and tapes with UV, thermal changes and possible bond failures (some bad batches?), along with OSB (who remembers the fire-rated roof OSB that in 5 years, people would fall through the roof-literally)... just because some lab tests (can be altered/faked) say it will last 10-20 years ... if applied/installed correctly. Wow... I need to lay off coffee this late...
There are documentaries about asbestos and the thousands of years of history that man has been using it and how the big companies that ran the asbestos industries knew that it created health complications and kept it under wraps. As far as zip, it's been around for 12 years now and Matt has a video showing a testing facility at the university of texas where they have mock ups of pretty much every single exterior waterproofing product on the market outside exposed to the elements year round and the zip system had actually held up much better than it was rated and we are talking years of direct uv exposure without siding over it. But also, if we let fear of innovation paralyze us then we cant move forward. Just food for thought. Cheers.
No, such good points you make. And here in America corporate money trumps everything so one does have to worry. Who remembers Dutch Boy and their lead based paint? How come they dont have to pick up the cost of all this lead paint abatement? NOPE! It's the homeowner who has to pay for that one. And why does Dutch Boy still exist? Over and over again, products/methods are found to be completely destructive. So many go against common sense. Somehow paper protects your house from water? Live in an airtight pressurized box? Please I can't be the only one whose better judgement is wagging it's finger.
Question: With the bottom of window out that has the shims how do you address the window trim? and would your casement window still be installed the same way if the window had a buck?
It sounded like Matt was saying you put nails in the bottom, but then the other guys said except for the bottom, so do we mail the bottom or not? Any help oils be appreciated as I am installing windows this weekend.
If the window sill is canted/angled by 5 degrees, wouldn't the top of the window be angled a bit out of plumb? Since it is essentially angled forward? Or is it too small an angle?
Does anyone know what the best practice is for replacing windows in a 1960s concrete block home in Fl? Is flashing tape necessary or liquid flashing? Or is elastomeric caulk good enough for sealing air & water?
I’m assuming that the Zip flashing tapes are “self-healing” in that they seal around the nails being driven through them creating penetrations? Would a Prosoco fluid apply be more thorough and less labor than zip + tape?
Maty has shown in some of his other videos where they cover the inside half of a window install that they use backerrod around the perimeter for the frame and then back caulk the inside of the window jamb to the opening. He also made mention to this briefly in the video.
You use an air dam on the inside. Usually it is backer rod with Prosoco Air Dam on the inside of the window. This will air seal and also help if for any reason you get water behind the tape it will help seal it as well from the inside.
Math has showed in some of his older videos that they back caulk the inside of the window. First they put in backer rod then caulk and tool the caulking.
I've been in the trades for almost 20 years, built houses, flipped houses, renovated top to bottom, commercial and residential, and worked with hundreds of sub trades. I still find it overwhelming at the sheer amount of systems and products that exist to do the same thing. As for what's best? Forget about it, you'll never know, nor will any contractor. What complicates things further is 4 contractors will give you 4 different ways to install the same product. Even for an experienced guy, It can be frustrating and anxiety enducing to make the best choice and to know whether the job is being done correctly or not.
Amen
Try being a diy-er trying to build my own house; learning as I go.
How so? Because different options exist that makes it harder? I love it. Different systems for different requirements and budgets. It doesn't add any anxiety for me. I'd rather have options than just make it up as ingo
I can definitely relate honestly. It's quite overwhelming.
All the products are to screw the americans out of there money. Plenty of old houses with no fancy products with no problems. Rissinger charges 5k to put a window in
There needs to be more videos of Bill giving his hands on knowledge.
Shut up
Damn you Matt. I'm going to build a house, and it would have been so much easier if I had never found your channel.
Matt always does a great job covering windows but i would like to see him do some doors, sliding doors and such...😎
422systemarty a 8R8L Bi Fold patio door perhaps !?! 😰
Ditto!
I have a house under construction and they installed the windows just this week. I was actually very surprised they did nothing in the way of a sill pan or taping the house wrap before installing the windows. Is the best and only thing I can do after the fact to weather seal the edges of the window? Suggestions? I should have them take the windows out and do it the right way!
This channel is my favorite resource for sure. Sliding doors would be great. I think he did something with Marvin some time ago.
I agree with you Pavel and 422systemarty !
I think I saw Matt do a little building there, nice to see him get his hands dirty....hammers like a manager too. All joking aside, love the videos, working backwards and watching the old ones too. Thank you for sharing all the knowledge, and helping us to build better
Smartass
I have a feeling Matt puts those bags on just for videos. I kid I kid. Great video.
Exactly how I did my windows two years ago. After two winter's I can say the extra work was worth it. Not just financially in energy savings but in comfort and sound control as well.
Every time I wake up to a notification I get super happy and I have a great day how about everybody else🙋♂️🙋🏽
That's Awesome! Thanks Brother.
Same
Super helpful in knowing the steps to take and proper flashing to avoid water damage!
Great video. I totally agree that windows can cause a lot of problems. I had a company come in and put in double pane windows but they were not careful in sealing around the window. I had to redo the window to keep the water out and used a number of your videos to do the work since I am learning as I go. Thank you for the info.
Bill looked absolutely mesmerized by the stretch tape.
Excellent video on the proper flashing methods with the best products on the market. The real problem is, what are the chances that the average builders are going to be that thorough in the process? More than likely not, which is why no matter how great these products are it always boils down to the final installer and their particular expertise, or lack of it.
Thank you, guys. I'm doing a rebuild (like 2 steps past a remodel) on my house. I've referenced many of your videos to help me do it right.
I totally understand the concept and 100% would do this if I had a coastal house where the possibility of high winds or hurricane could drive the water sideways but the beginning seems like overkill .
I like that he took the side taping past the bend point on the lower tape.
You guys are pros and you typically direct your information to other pros, but as a layman, I appreciate that you provide a how-to that doesn't assume we are all pros, you explain every detail and why you do it. Thanks! Do you have earlier videos that explain the framing as well?
Thanks for mentioning the 5 degree positive slope with frame sill! Previously, I was looking into sill pans such as suresill (the original frame sill did not have this positive slope). I will look to sanding this slope on frame sill - per explanation of your work
As a contractor in swfl I agree with the way you approach the sill and no sealant on the bottom flange but I find that if a use a good bead of elastomeric caulk to adhear the window directly to the zip sheathing. this is adhearing the window to the framing making it structural
and not relying on the adhesion of the zip tape . Because all you did was adhear the window to the zip tape. A bead of quality elastomeric sealant between window flange and sheathing and then zip tape over the flange after. All in all good videos
Nice video. I literally just complained on some window install videos about them not taping the sides and top because that would allow air that comes up from the bottom of the window (since that part isn't taped or sealed) to get behind the house wrap, which defeats the purpose of house wrap as an air barrier. I understand here you're using Zip but then air could get in where the window jamb and the zip meet. Happy to see you guys put tape on that.
Thanks for another great video. I’m about to start building a house using zip sheathing for the first time. This was exactly what I needed to see.
Dont use shit system to build your new house.
This is the method we teach all of the carpenter apprentices and truly is the best method. It helps with air leakage and water penetration both. It would be nice if the whole industry would be using the same method whether it’s Tyvek, zip system or any other mechanically applied system.
thanks again. great work and teaching. i like to watch and recap everything you do right before I actually do the next step. again suberb!
Bill Wood the carpenter aye? nominative determinism at its finest
Building a house for the first time and finding your videos very informative Matt. Just found out the framer did not put zip tape around the window frame before placing the window. And btw the tape that he did put around the windows after was ripped out by the roofer because he was short of tape. Is this common practice?
Funny, I worked for Jeld awen in their Darlington, UK factory about 14 years ago! Worked 10 weeks after leaving Uni assembling double glazing units. Haven't thought about that time in years.
I love the detail. Here in the UK we just slap in a plastic frame 10mm smaller than the opening, a few concrete screws through the frame from the inside and then expanding foam the gap. You have a much drier climate and go to all this trouble to waterproof. I suppose you have to for wooden houses.
Sometimes we foam Windows here depends in the United States. You guys in the UK don't do this for skylights though?
@@bobs6129 I've never fitted a skylight but when I saw the builders working on next door I didn't see them use foam. I think they possibly come with a sealing kit included
@@SwimBikeRunFastest yeah usually they come with a roll of butyl tape I'm guessing
For the time and necessity to be very specific with getting the tape to conform around all corners and edges, I prefer to just use liquid flash around the entire opening, covering the entire jamb. It’s a little more expensive, BUT for the end result and lack of headaches it’s so worth it!
I agree hands down. Matt has since used fluid applied flashing abd weather barrier on a couple homes with tremendous results. Have you seen the air sealing vapor that’s implemented by filling the homes interior air space with the air sealant and doing a blower door by blowing the air towards the outside wgich in turn blows the air sealant to the extrusions which seals the tiny holes that would’ve typically been avoided because of the inability to find every tiny air gap. It’s stuff like that wgich brings me back to the build show over just aboit anything else being put out to learn from. Matt is doing what he loves and is doing a fine job if you ask me. I learn something in every video.
Thanks guys. I got me some of the flex tape to try out on a window install I’m doing soon
My condolences Matt!😥
JW window and door units are very nice, good luck on getting them to honor any type of warranty replacement!
Thanks!
I always learn something new in your videos. Thanks Matt!
Bill Wood. Best contractor name ever...
Last time I installed windows, I didn't see any flashing. It's been running stably for a couple of years now - no complaints.
I've learned so much from this channel. Thanks.
Nice install , I appreciate your reason for not securing bottom flang , I’m not sure if it’s however it’s necessary
You're the one that got me into creating my RUclips channel, love the content - keep it up! ✌
You've got some awesome content too. Funny y'all are both from Austin. SUBSCRIBED! 🔥
@@grahamk3708 Thanks bud, I appreciate it
You're cute
@@tessakelly6061 😍 i see you
Wow, Matt swinging a hammer.
Came here to say this. Haha
Now surprise us back and say something funny, constructive, helpful or just anything that is not completely lame.
@@tapuzak , I know I should be more constructive with my comments. But thanks for the reply, I apologize for wasting your time.
@@tapuzak is this constructive?...the head flashing should have gone on before the head tape
@@tomruth9487 dude, it was a funny comment. Don't worry about it
Good video Matt and I love how you recommend using tape abundantly. But really, Jeld Wen? I know you either got them for free or at discount, but their sealing mechanism is not same as the other higher end ... Jeld Wen reminds me of Champion windows, and we know where that company is now. You should maybe do a video on selecting windows, because even with the name brands, such as Marvin, they have different lines and one should be careful in selection. FYI, Most carpenters will NOT angle the bottom window sill ~5% ... time consuming, so, sealing this area all around is important. I would recommend showing no wood around the seal. Tape it then use liquid Zip to tape exposed wood. I love the flex Zip tape!
Great video,awesome content. Way too many ads. 4 in 25 minutes? My only gripe, which really isn't much. Keep up the good work. I'm getting ready to build my next house, so all the pro tips really help.
you don’t have a continuous air barrier with this install, would leak air, cause condensation build up and would not meet the building code. the bottom flange needs to tied into the zip flashing with the peel and stick. Windows have drainage built into the sill frame.
The drainage is for water that might get behind the window and pool on the sill pan if it was taped. My builder has the same concern about cold air coming in in winter and causing condensation.
Great how to video! Thank you for all your information!
Matt comes across as the guy who couldn't play football or baseball but knows the rule book. Bill comes across like he played football and baseball and knows the rule book.
Nice video giys!...Nail every hole in the flang guys! If the nail flang is crimping up your setting the nails too hard. Center a window in the RO from outside. Slide the window to one side make a pencil mark by the flange then slide the window all the way to the other side of the RO make a mark. Next slide the window over and split the difference between your two pencil Mark's!
If you'll be adding 1" foam board exterior insulation, then furring strips and siding, what order do you do the window flashing, window install with nailing flange? I have seen videos with the foam already in place before the stretch tape and flashing tape, etc. Your thoughts?
Very good question.
Matt, Ive been in construction 30+ years now mainly in Texas with degrees in architecture and landscape architecture and added selling custom standing seam metal roofing 2.5 years ago to the things I do...I just can't get on board with any kind of particle board sheathing. Zip is an intetesting product but the only place I've even seen it installed to spec is on your videos. If they sold the coating material seperately I'd be all about that. Particle board sheathing of any kind just does not hold up to moisture that is inevitable.
I do really enjoy your videos though.
it is not particle board!
"Oriented strand board (OSB) is an engineered wood product formed by rectangular wood strands (flakes) arranged in cross-oriented layers with the help of waterproof adhesives. The result is a structural engineered wood panel similar to plywood in strength and performance, but more uniform and less expensive."
@@RaulTorresMorfin yes it is OSB...that is a form of particle board, friend. I know exactly how it is made. Actually toured a plant once to see it made. And it isn't really that less expensive anymore on the front-end...and very expensive to repair on the back end.
You've had to pull out incorrectly installed zip?
@@RandomUserName92840 yep
Matt has talked on some of the videos about going to plywood when he's able, or in some cases for the lower courses of sheathing to provide additional protection. I think this makes sense. I am about to do some sheathing on my own home and am weighing the options. My preference at the moment is good plywood with fluid applied, but it's also the most costly option. I'm in Florida, so strong wind-driven rain is a given. ZIP is hard to get in my area anyway so it may not be feasible for me.
How do you attach siding to the zip system without making holes in the zip system from the fasteners, seams a little counter productive to do all the water proofing than just drive nails into it to hold siding.
I think you just sold me on those windows. Will be building end of year.
Doubt this will be seen, but I work residential construction and remodeling seasonally and I have never used or seen the Zip System before. But I was driving back from the hardware store (or somewhere, don't remember) and I finally saw a house going up using it. I do have to say, it does look a lot better than Tyvek like we normally use. Too bad it doesn't get seen.
In general, what does the top flashing add over the already taped seam besides a few extra nail holes through the tape? Is water really going to navigate up below the lower level of tape? If so, won't it do so even with the extra layer of flashing?
Belt and suspenders! Love the American version of Belts and Braces but definitely think the British versions rolls off the tongue better.
Best video I’ve seen so far
Doesn't leaving a gap at the bottom flange and the fact there is not caulk, effect the blow door test and R value due to air penetration at this area?
It does not affect air leakage because there is a backer rod and caulking used on the inside for air sealing. Low expansion spray foam and tape is another method.
Essentially leaving an air gap under the bottom of the install. I understand to allow water to escape.
Would you seal the inside of the window with caulking to make air right from the inside?
He seals from the inside ruclips.net/video/ZfjDBzbwQDA/видео.html
Matt uses a lot of great products which makes for a very well built house. The only downside is the cost of all of this. You could quickly turn a $150/sf home into $250/sf which really is cost prohibitive to a lot of people.
Awesome content like always. Maybe you could start another series showing bill in how to videos, focused on proper installation of energy sensitive building components and others. I think it will be very beneficial.
Great video Glad your talking PG rating not just the Energy.
Could you explain why no need for caulking at the sill location ? Thanks
The angled sills are your "old school" framing technique that duh-works!🤣😉
I'm due for a sill rebuild, but of course I'm only going to have gypsum-I'm guessing this poly tech tape needs to stick with poly home wrap-new construction only? I can't afford to tear off my aluminum and whip out the expanding foam and wrap. Lol
My contractor just installed my paradigm windows and all they used is a piece of zip tape on the bottom area nothing else. I’m using zip boards with foam insulation should’ve it been covered top to bottom with tape?
Nice! I'm taking notes on this for when I replace some old windows in my house (I'll be pulling back the vinyl siding a little to do some taping as the siding and house wrap were installed after windows were in).
The nail-holding tip came in handy.
I wonder if that much taping is needed on a shed window. LOL.
If you cut the bottom window sil at a 5 degree downward sloping angle, how do you seat the window plumb in the opening? Or is he saying the entire window will be installed at a 5 degree angle?
Head flashing should be a must As home wash down water blaster
Nice, clear video. Lucky to have sponsors giving you free materials like windows and sheathing...
But Bill let the cat out of the bag about the longevity of the stretch tape - said something like "sometimes the tape will curl and it's ok to use a staple to hold the corners down". Which is an admission that even new stretch tape installations can quickly fail - imagine what happens once the cladding/stucco goes on and it's out of sight. I'd like to see how well stretch tape survives 10-20 years of scorching heat and freezing cycles.
I feel liquid flashing the sill is the true best practice. And I don't think adding tape to sides and top of window is necessary before window installation - it's superfluous since you caulk and apply tape after the window is installed. I suspect it's undesirable to have multiple layers of tape on top of each other in any event.
Bill also said something not well understood - that water can (and does) run uphill if there's driving wind and/or pressure imbalances. I live on a hillside and despite overhangs, have had wind-driven rain drive water up over 6" of flashing.
out of sight....and out of UV exposure
I went to Home Depot to take a look at the ZIP product. The employee there told me that they have sold very little since stocking the sheathing. The price is about thirty dollars for the 5/8" size, and about twenty for the thinner size. Reading in other places, I see that Huber is apparently aggressively protecting their patent by challenging any manufacturer who produces a sheathing that is remotely similar. Researching the vapor permeability of the ZIP coating and the OSB substrate, as well as the performance in real-world conditions, I have the impression that painted OSB would perform as well. Some builders advise using half-inch plywood for sheathing with a quality house wrap instead.
Yeah the costs are outrageous now, we used osb and house wrap, but put the zip system on the roof, I'm a remodeling contractor but this is my first new build. I think the painted osb is not a bad idea except that code would require you to put on the house wrap as with the zip system you don't since the patent company gets code approval, no corruption there, lol
@@Zimbob2424 Thanks for your reply, Bill. Since I wrote that original comment, those ZIP products must be two or three time higher in price now! After further investigation, it appears that the ZIP sheeting is in fact coated with an oil-based paint. On a large build, the reduced time and instant protection from weather are likely to be a significant value. To experiment with alternatives, I am using an elastomeric "siliconizer" coating on thin plywood for a shed project.
There are multiple sheet goods from manufacturers now that are very similar to zip. Of course they cost more coated, but that cost is coming down for all of these type products.
@@christopherhaak9824 Thanks for your reply. ZIP system itself has come down significantly. Both big box stores have much more manageable prices lately.
Thank you for the great content. Can you please clarify why the bottom of the window does not get sealed/liquid flashed? Won't keeping the bottom open contradict the concept of making an air tight house and also get worse results on a blower door test?
The inside is fully sealed, the exterior flange is kept loose to allow water a path of least resistance out
how do you airseal the bottom flange if there is a gap for letting the water out
Just something to help out with the waterproofing - unless your window is literally tight within like 1/16 or 1/8 to the frame, making those corners that tight (especially with that comment about stapling it) is not necessary. However, a backlip for that wrap would be very useful. I speak as a window installer for a major American company working in the rainy, super wet PNW (our installs are lifetime warrantied, longer than our glass, and this is on remodels).
Oh and Jeld-Wen is copying our windows with their new frame material. We did it first. RBA FTW Andersen>Pella>Milgard>Jeld-wen everyone else sucks
If you did caulk behind the window fin is it possible to remove the window without ruining it?
If anyone could please answer a question for me: Don't the shims at the bottom flange, as well as the lack of any caulking at the bottom flange guarantee a breach in the air barrier? It seems like, for the sake of leak drainage, we just left a permanent hole in our house. How and where does the bottom flange get an air seal?
Some good info here. But it looks like this is before the siding goes on. What if I'm doing replacement windows. I have brick and T1-11 siding?
Love them widows sizzle
I learned a few things today ，5 degree bevel of the sill ，caulking before putting the Windows up，tape after nail too。I am going to install 3 Windows for a small new house for a charity 。 bow with respect 。🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻😁
Is there ever a scenario where you use tape on the bottom? After the window is in place?
Great video, thanks. Good to see you swing a hammer for a change!
Hey Matt! Very thorough installation video! We're planning to install a Cor-A-Vent Rainscreen between our ZIP R-Sheathing and vertical wood siding. Could you explain how that system should interface with the ZIP Tape/Flashing around the windows and window trim? Thanks!
Looks like you can use spray foam on the inside, or backer rod and caulk, as in other videos.
Using extreme Barricade tape on vinyl windows, after diligence rolling the tape it starts to peel or curl away from the flange what can be done?
@Matt Risinger , Why not use the Zip 2.0 process you talked about in other videos?
I was wondering the same thing. Matt why did you not use the Zip 2.0 method. Also, why not use the ZipR?
@@themikeflanders3470 he tore this house down, and rebuilt new
Based on allowing moisture to exit the bottom of the window, how do you prevent air infiltration?
He seals from the inside ruclips.net/video/ZfjDBzbwQDA/видео.html
Great video as always!
Could you use the liquid zip instead of tape and flashing on the window ?
These being relatively new products, I wonder how many decades the adhesives will last before drying out? Obviously even if they do dry out, it's better than the old method of nothing, but just makes me curious. What will it look like in 30 years, 50 years?
I wonder how long this flexible tape stays flexible. All things seem to dry and crack with age
You must not be familiar with roofing. There was some tacky adhesive 20 years later that is still stuck and pliable.
Did i heard good....there is no culking at the bottom, and you leave a gap for the water to come out in case...sooo there is not air tide or seal a 100 % ??
In the futur, how would you change the window when need be?
Thinks for making videos very helpful
how long can the adhesive on the tape be expected to last, especially when applied to a substrate that isn't free of dust, that can expand/contract with weather conditions
In a covered situation under cladding or siding, that adhesive will last as long as the house. It doesn't degrade.
Once you got the window in, and spray foam insulation around edges from inside to fill any gaps the tape should be held securely in place .
Is there any accelerated aging test on this tape system? As a material scientist I would not trust them unless I see some good data
I love all this re-learning new info on flashing and water-sealing of your videos. But I have to ask, the long-term life of these products, will they be another future "abatement" product? Asbestos shingles were amazing for homes in the 50's/60's. But who knew that cutting them (frangible) or breaking them were to be a hazard. These adhesives, membranes and tapes with UV, thermal changes and possible bond failures (some bad batches?), along with OSB (who remembers the fire-rated roof OSB that in 5 years, people would fall through the roof-literally)... just because some lab tests (can be altered/faked) say it will last 10-20 years ... if applied/installed correctly. Wow... I need to lay off coffee this late...
There are documentaries about asbestos and the thousands of years of history that man has been using it and how the big companies that ran the asbestos industries knew that it created health complications and kept it under wraps. As far as zip, it's been around for 12 years now and Matt has a video showing a testing facility at the university of texas where they have mock ups of pretty much every single exterior waterproofing product on the market outside exposed to the elements year round and the zip system had actually held up much better than it was rated and we are talking years of direct uv exposure without siding over it. But also, if we let fear of innovation paralyze us then we cant move forward. Just food for thought. Cheers.
No, such good points you make. And here in America corporate money trumps everything so one does have to worry. Who remembers Dutch Boy and their lead based paint? How come they dont have to pick up the cost of all this lead paint abatement? NOPE! It's the homeowner who has to pay for that one. And why does Dutch Boy still exist? Over and over again, products/methods are found to be completely destructive. So many go against common sense. Somehow paper protects your house from water? Live in an airtight pressurized box? Please I can't be the only one whose better judgement is wagging it's finger.
@Wood-Renovations my comment wasn't in reference to this system here. I actually like how clean and simplified it looks.
Question: With the bottom of window out that has the shims how do you address the window trim? and would your casement window still be installed the same way if the window had a buck?
It sounded like Matt was saying you put nails in the bottom, but then the other guys said except for the bottom, so do we mail the bottom or not? Any help oils be appreciated as I am installing windows this weekend.
If the window sill is canted/angled by 5 degrees, wouldn't the top of the window be angled a bit out of plumb? Since it is essentially angled forward? Or is it too small an angle?
the window will be nailed to the outside plumb face of the wall making the window plumb
Would you spray spray foam ride on the metal inside like for the pole barn or should we put a house wrap and then spray the foam on it from the inside
Why tape the window with flashing, then nail the flange and then tape again. Would it not be ok to skip the flashing that went just before nailing?
Does anyone know what the best practice is for replacing windows in a 1960s concrete block home in Fl? Is flashing tape necessary or liquid flashing? Or is elastomeric caulk good enough for sealing air & water?
A close up of the new material would be good. I like that it’s not vinyl.
I’m assuming that the Zip flashing tapes are “self-healing” in that they seal around the nails being driven through them creating penetrations? Would a Prosoco fluid apply be more thorough and less labor than zip + tape?
What is the optimum temperature for the stretch tape? I assume heat helps the adherence but only up to a point.
I've seen a data sheet for the Zip Tape it's acrylic and the data sheet says: "Apply tape when ambient air and substrate are above 0 °F (-18 °C)"
How are you completing the continuous air barrier at the bottom of the window?
Maty has shown in some of his other videos where they cover the inside half of a window install that they use backerrod around the perimeter for the frame and then back caulk the inside of the window jamb to the opening. He also made mention to this briefly in the video.
One thing I've never seen yet in your videos is how you airtighten the window when the bottom is open.
Do you tape, caulk or 1K foam the innside?
I was thinking the same, Won't it just be a open air vent breaking the indoor seal?
You use an air dam on the inside. Usually it is backer rod with Prosoco Air Dam on the inside of the window. This will air seal and also help if for any reason you get water behind the tape it will help seal it as well from the inside.
Math has showed in some of his older videos that they back caulk the inside of the window. First they put in backer rod then caulk and tool the caulking.
@@Wood-Renovations actually remember seeing that when you say it 👍
He seals from the inside ruclips.net/video/ZfjDBzbwQDA/видео.html
Can one save money by using the flex tape only on the corners. Maybe use other tape for flat part of bottom? Flex looks pricey.
I have read that there can be issues if you mix brands--consistent adhesion, chemical reactions, etc.