Thank you very much for posting this. I am getting ready to tackle this on my own truck and this video could not be more perfectly timed or informative.
i know im asking the wrong place but does someone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account?? I somehow forgot the login password. I would love any help you can offer me.
@Jamal Conor i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and im in the hacking process atm. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I love you man! But you cant have my bud light. I love how smooth and fluent you are. You should be holding a class on how to make a video. Ugh- so many painful ones. lol. Funny thing is that I am doing all my ball joints and all new steering arms on my 2015 JK Wrangler and I came back here to see where you were using the anti-cease. No one else does that. You are a class act! Thank you for what you do. I give you two thumbs up from Siskel and Ebert!
Great video, very informative. Small nit... at 10:40, tech is not holding the torque wrench properly for accurate torque. Must hold in middle of the grip only! Choking up on the wrench can be off by 30%.
Guess I need to get these. 2012 Ram 2500 w/ Cummins and on my 3rd set of crappy Moogs. I did use AFM on the last go round, these trucks seem to chew up ball joints like candy; never buying Moog again though, that's for sure.
After you remove the axle, clean the tube out so when you slide the axle back in you're not putting all that dirt/grit and grime into the diff and then put a rag in it so when you're cleaning the other parts and blowing them off you're not blowing even more crap into the axle tube.
rfair123 you actually have more of a chance of knocking contaminants into the housing with whatever implement you attempt to clean the tube out with. It’s kind of like shoving a q-tip in your ear, you just cram the gunk further in.
and plus when you remove the hub the shield is there. slide red clip back and where the clip was intialally press that location and it slides apart easily do not use any tools except your fingers.. ..and d/c the wire.. dont mess with the sensor .. leads to problems. and could have slide out axle and hub together (4 m16 bolts 18mm)since he was swapping the joints
@@CJCOffRoad Ordering my EMF soon from you guys. I'm guessing the process for installing the ball joints is the same for 2nd and 3rd gen, is that right?
Tired of doing balljoints... will be getting a set of Carli this video is very well layed out and not Mikey mouse like other videos and these joints aren't cheap and want to retain the warranty so thank you for this 🫡 the professional tips are appreciated
Nice video. I especially like hearing what size everything is. I'd like to hear more about the "Load spring washer" mentioned at 6:20. Was that piece shown? Thx
Nice video and very detailed. Convinced me to take it to a shop. I’m shopping aftermarket ball joints now and close to choosing. How much should I expect to pay in labor for this job? I’m also getting adjustable control arms and track bar all at once. Keep up the good work.
I'm in the middle of this project for my 2012 3500. I had to grind down the knuckle for clearance, when I re-torqued as instructed, the knuckle is hard to turn lock to lock. I assume because I removed about 1/8" of material on the knuckle and the tapered post on the lower is "grabbing" the knuckle lower and that's pulling on the upper. Is this normal? Will the weight of the truck balance this back out? Do I need to get a new knuckle and just grind down the shoulders where is making contact? Thanks.
IMO he did a funky "clearance" job. You need to grind away all of the interfering metal but NOT grind away any of the ball joint mating surface. You are changing the dimensions of the knuckle if you do. When I did the ball joints on my old Bronco, I just got in with a die grinder and clearanced only what was needed. I didn't take everything back apart and attack it with a grinder as the video showed.
Quick suggestion for a job like this. Don't remove the hub from the drive shaft. Just take out the four 18 mm bolts and slide out the axle along with the hub. Also, bllue locktite for the calipers? I use red as they get really hot.
Red loctite releases when heat is applied at 500°. Blue isn't really affected by temp. So, if you really want to drill out a bolt, then you could use red otherwise, blue is fine.
ABOlsens69X - Good advice cept for those who are actually replacing their hubs which is a really good idea since you're already taking everything apart.
im probly gonna go with carli over less expensive EMF BUT your site saws ball joints are covered for ANY FAILURE yet this video says not cover if they break when being installed? For close to 1k EVERYTHING should be covered i would think. so which is -Warrantied for life. -In lieu of enumerating the materials, processes, and design characteristics of Carli's Ball Joints, they're just going to stand behind this component for as long as you own it. If for any reason the performance of Carli's Ball Joint declines, Carli will stand behind it. For the life of your purchase. After the finalization of the R&D process Carli is confident that this part will never fail.
Carli will cover anything related to their side of the ball joints (materials, production, coatings etc) but if they are damaged or broken due to user error during installation, that's not something they can reasonably cover since they have no control over it. Their warranty is pretty stand out though as there is no warranty on EMF, Dynatrac etc ball joints that covers wear as all other brands consider their joints a wear item, and no brand covers installation damage.
Don't even own a Dodge, and yet I watched the whole thing. Great tutorial!
Thank you very much for posting this. I am getting ready to tackle this on my own truck and this video could not be more perfectly timed or informative.
i know im asking the wrong place but does someone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account??
I somehow forgot the login password. I would love any help you can offer me.
@Lyle Vivaan Instablaster :)
@Jamal Conor i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and im in the hacking process atm.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Jamal Conor It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my ass!
@Lyle Vivaan you are welcome :D
I love you man! But you cant have my bud light. I love how smooth and fluent you are. You should be holding a class on how to make a video. Ugh- so many painful ones. lol. Funny thing is that I am doing all my ball joints and all new steering arms on my 2015 JK Wrangler and I came back here to see where you were using the anti-cease. No one else does that. You are a class act! Thank you for what you do. I give you two thumbs up from Siskel and Ebert!
Here to help! We’ve learned a thing or two over the years of putting these in!
You still keeping a grip on that bud light? 😂
I love your intro with tool explanation keep putting out more videos on the dodge ram
Entertaining AND educational.
Do more of these. Any and all the maintenance stuff.
Great video, very informative. Small nit... at 10:40, tech is not holding the torque wrench properly for accurate torque. Must hold in middle of the grip only! Choking up on the wrench can be off by 30%.
I saw that, too... In more than one place...
Supporting the tool so it doesn’t fall doesn’t affect torque values.
This was fantastic. Boy I hope it goes this well on my 400,000 km Project 3rd gen lol.
Guess I need to get these. 2012 Ram 2500 w/ Cummins and on my 3rd set of crappy Moogs. I did use AFM on the last go round, these trucks seem to chew up ball joints like candy; never buying Moog again though, that's for sure.
After you remove the axle, clean the tube out so when you slide the axle back in you're not putting all that dirt/grit and grime into the diff and then put a rag in it so when you're cleaning the other parts and blowing them off you're not blowing even more crap into the axle tube.
rfair123 you actually have more of a chance of knocking contaminants into the housing with whatever implement you attempt to clean the tube out with. It’s kind of like shoving a q-tip in your ear, you just cram the gunk further in.
@@Rhinopkc I use a vacuum with a long small OD plastic tube, cleans it up very nicely and nothing is going into the diff.
a small OD tube is key. if you use the shop vac hose alone you can easily draw the gear oil right out of the diff.
I wish half the jobs I do went that smooth
I wish one of the jobs I did went this smoth
For real lol 😂
Its called video editing, they removed the hour of headaches you're actually going to have, don't expect any of this to go smooth.
This job is usually very easy! Including the ABS tab portion haha
Probably forgot that part while creating the video haha
outstanding Video and narration . Ill be deffinitly using this video to tackle my my ball joints this weekend...
I find unplugging the ABS sensor harness from inside the wheel well prevents the risk of hurting the ABS sensor or putting debris inside the bearing.
and plus when you remove the hub the shield is there. slide red clip back and where the clip was intialally press that location and it slides apart easily do not use any tools except your fingers.. ..and d/c the wire.. dont mess with the sensor .. leads to problems. and could have slide out axle and hub together (4 m16 bolts 18mm)since he was swapping the joints
Good advice 'cept for those who are replacing their hubs
You guys need to make these for the 2nd gen Dodges. Excellent video btw.
EMF and Dynatrac have the second gen ball joint market covered!
@@CJCOffRoad Ordering my EMF soon from you guys. I'm guessing the process for installing the ball joints is the same for 2nd and 3rd gen, is that right?
Tired of doing balljoints... will be getting a set of Carli this video is very well layed out and not Mikey mouse like other videos and these joints aren't cheap and want to retain the warranty so thank you for this 🫡 the professional tips are appreciated
Great information video thank you
Dude you're so awesome for posting this. Great video
Y’all make It look easy 👍
Andres Caloca it is
My Dodge fought me every single step. I wanted to take my torch and cut it in pieces and leave it on the side of the road.
Very useful info...I'm in process of doing mine... This helped me alot thanks
Great video with clear instructions. Good work guys.
Nice video. I especially like hearing what size everything is.
I'd like to hear more about the "Load spring washer" mentioned at 6:20. Was that piece shown?
Thx
Load spreading washer. It’s in the Carli ball joint box. It’s just a thick steel washer to spread the force of pressing the lower ball joint in.
So how many ugga duggas is 70 ft lbs?
7 to 8.
That's the first time I've seen a 3 piece ball joint.
What did you use to lubricate the axle splines before installing it into the tube to avoid tearing the seal?
Fantastic video.
So do you grind down just the front part or all the way around?
Is anti-siezed used at 12:07 for putting axle shaft back in?
So I would need to spend $300 which you recommend for Kit supposedly I'm never to use again as these are the last ball joints I will ever have to buy?
🤣🤣
😂😂😂
It's so your friends can borrow it!
Can you provide the Torque Wrench part # again? THANKS
great job!
" Hard to use too much anti-seize, unless you live in a vacuum". HAHAHA
Nice video and very detailed. Convinced me to take it to a shop. I’m shopping aftermarket ball joints now and close to choosing. How much should I expect to pay in labor for this job? I’m also getting adjustable control arms and track bar all at once. Keep up the good work.
It's hard to say since there's such a range, but anywhere from $350 to 1k in labor depending on the shop!
@@CJCOffRoad I’m waiting on an estimate from my shop. I will let you know their cost Monday.
do it yourself
its been two weeks now. The rental kit wont do this job. hopefully santa can get that upper out this december.
Great video, thank you!
What’s the labor to get this done on a 4th gen at CJC?
I'm in the middle of this project for my 2012 3500. I had to grind down the knuckle for clearance, when I re-torqued as instructed, the knuckle is hard to turn lock to lock. I assume because I removed about 1/8" of material on the knuckle and the tapered post on the lower is "grabbing" the knuckle lower and that's pulling on the upper. Is this normal? Will the weight of the truck balance this back out? Do I need to get a new knuckle and just grind down the shoulders where is making contact? Thanks.
IMO he did a funky "clearance" job. You need to grind away all of the interfering metal but NOT grind away any of the ball joint mating surface. You are changing the dimensions of the knuckle if you do. When I did the ball joints on my old Bronco, I just got in with a die grinder and clearanced only what was needed. I didn't take everything back apart and attack it with a grinder as the video showed.
Red Loctite is a stud and bearing lock. Please use blue the next guy Will be able to get it apart.
Great tutorial!
What brake rotors are those?
awesome video
Nice fox damper
My axes did not just pry out like that. They were pretty hard to get out because the bearing hub was seized in the socket.
that is by far the easiest i have ever seen an old hub come off.
where is the axle nut?
On the truck?
In your butt!
Quick suggestion for a job like this. Don't remove the hub from the drive shaft. Just take out the four 18 mm bolts and slide out the axle along with the hub.
Also, bllue locktite for the calipers? I use red as they get really hot.
Red loctite releases when heat is applied at 500°. Blue isn't really affected by temp. So, if you really want to drill out a bolt, then you could use red otherwise, blue is fine.
ABOlsens69X - Good advice cept for those who are actually replacing their hubs which is a really good idea since you're already taking everything apart.
09fx ¿ was yours clicking?
Will the OTC 8031 work on a 2012 2500 CTD?
It will!
I absolutely HATE the grinding part!
im probly gonna go with carli over less expensive EMF BUT your site saws ball joints are covered for ANY FAILURE yet this video says not cover if they break when being installed? For close to 1k EVERYTHING should be covered i would think. so which is -Warrantied for life.
-In lieu of enumerating the materials, processes, and design characteristics of Carli's Ball Joints, they're just going to stand behind this component for as long as you own it. If for any reason the performance of Carli's Ball Joint declines, Carli will stand behind it. For the life of your purchase. After the finalization of the R&D process Carli is confident that this part will never fail.
Carli will cover anything related to their side of the ball joints (materials, production, coatings etc) but if they are damaged or broken due to user error during installation, that's not something they can reasonably cover since they have no control over it. Their warranty is pretty stand out though as there is no warranty on EMF, Dynatrac etc ball joints that covers wear as all other brands consider their joints a wear item, and no brand covers installation damage.
That was pre disassembled. Its not that easy. You have to press the hub assembly out with the steering.
There are many methods to getting the bearing unseated. We typically use an air hammer adapter ton press on the hub bolts.
No, it was not. The truck just wasn’t rusty.
I'm not impressed! Maybe A little over 6 months and 1 side needs replaced. All the driving that I have done on them is highway going to and from work.
Great video
Does the otc 6539 kit work on 2000-02 ram 25/3500 4x4?
Or I should say 8031 kit. I was looking at the otc website and got mixed up.