Great video thanks for sharing. I looked these parts up and I noticed they are knurled. I was told not to put in knurled ball joints unless you absolutely have to.
Mist have something used to help keep it place other them a retaining clip. The ball joint takes the compression when installing and shouldn't affect the knuckle
This is a great video but people with older trucks and salty roads need to add some penetrant oil maybe a couple days before the work! But I love this video
You can spray the area a couple days prior all around the flange area, all the nuts / bolts & while disassembling, wire brush around to remove some surface rust to aid in the removal. Also, you can remove the Wheel bearing using your power steering by setting up an impact socket on some extensions from one wheel bearing mounting bolt to somewhere beefy on the diff or anywhere really, turn the wheel to the direction of which you are working and one at a time, turn the steering wheel SLOWLY until pressure is felt & then gradually turning in that direction... (engine on, exhaust ventilated, jackstands, etc) until it pops free. Aaaaand you can also avoid removing that 330 ft-lb torque axle shaft nut by simply removing the wheel bearing and axle shafts together (nut still torqued) as the front shafts do not have any retaining clips.
Hey great video and info. Do you think it makes a difference in terms of life span if they have a grease fitting? My '16 ram 2500 are due soon and not sure which way to go. How have yours held up? Thx
Dude, this was awesome! Mine are gone on my 2011 - 2500 Cummins (gonna do this next week). Really appreciate the video, thorough and straight to the point. Question: did you have to remove everything off the other side before you could remove the axle?
Hey, thanks a lot. I tried to make it as simple as possible... it really isn't that bad. The other side was the same... everything has to cone off to get the axle out. Last thing off would be the wheel bearing then the axle would come out
Yea Canadian, they seem to be ok so far. I've bought the best and they didn't last 2 years so I guess it's just going to be common practice changing them every couple years. I don't remember the brand, it may be in the box in the video
Looked like MEVOTECH from Rock auto he said TXK7467 Ball Joint $ 49.79 $ 0.00 2 $ 99.58 MEVOTECH TXMS25506 Ball Joint $ 61.79 $ 0.00 2 $ 123.58 Shipping Ground $ 11.99 Tax $ 17.05 Order Total $ 252.20 Visa -$ 252.20 Balance Due $ 0.00
the vacuum disconnect front end or (CAD) (dodge) stopped the use of the CAD system in 02. 2003 to 2012 didnt have it, Dodge brought it back in 2013+ models. if your truck is a non CAD model you dont need to place the vehicle in 4wd
@@KendorFarms thanks for the quick reply. Ordering parts today through rock auto. Got a couple of quotes from dealer and shop. 2700 for ball joints and bearing hub.
My wife just bought me the 2010 dodge ram 2500 slt crew cab 6.7 ltr about 1 week ago and ive learned after swapping out the upper and ball joints i took it for an alignment and per manufactured there is no camber/caster to adjust. You need to buy the ball joints with proper camber /caster with + or - on it or is just me?? If so what the recommendation?
There should be a factory adjustable camber bolt on the front of the lower radius arm. I don't believe the camber has an adjustment like you say unless it's build into the ball joints, but unless something has happened to it or you need it for a certain type of tire the camber shouldn't need any adjustment
@@KendorFarms I wish that was the case I took it to brake plus they failed miserably and. I also took it to big o tires who actually got it close to right. Other then that everyone telling me there is no adjustment on these 4th gen dodges and has no adjustment specs according to manufacturer 🤷
I have brought my 2014 2500 in for upper ball joint replacement and was told there has to be a pre-alignment done as to determine which driver's side ball joint to order + or - as you have mentioned
@@waynet3454 Thank you for that response. I might take you up on it next time I do my ball joints I'll go the pre alignment and ordered the correct ball joints from + or - on it. I'm still learning so much about my truck and only problem I'm having is all emissions system... so there that. I already bought the monster ram I might install this weekend or next week
Ball joint delete. Bout $650 but it’s way better. All metal on metal nothing to wear out. If you do they replace them for free. American iron off-road.
This job can be a pain in the ass believe me if you do not have the right tools or your truck is extremely rusty and don't have time the best thing to do would be take it in I took 8 hours and work at a dealer 1000 thousand dollar ball joint press from Mac broke the lower was a pain in the ass did not budge with heat had to beat it out like a king pin !! Also note used napas top line for customer they failed in 4000 miles get them from dealer or a higher end brand !
Dude you make this stuff look so simple. This is the only way I can do any work on my ram 3500 is watching guys like you.
I try to make it look easy... but problems can always pop up
One of the best wrenching videos I've seen. Excellent camera positioning which really helps. Getting ready to do this on my 09 so thank you.
Excellent, very good camera work, explanations, and no music. Well done.
You did an excellent job in showing me how to do this. Thank you. Asbjorn, 2001 dodge 4x4 diesel
Great video thanks for sharing. I looked these parts up and I noticed they are knurled. I was told not to put in knurled ball joints unless you absolutely have to.
Mist have something used to help keep it place other them a retaining clip. The ball joint takes the compression when installing and shouldn't affect the knuckle
You put together a great video. I was thinking of doing this myself, now I have no doubt! Thanks!
Thank you very very much sir , got a quote for $1675 for labor and parts , did it my self for $500 and got my self new tools . Very helpful video
This is a great video but people with older trucks and salty roads need to add some penetrant oil maybe a couple days before the work! But I love this video
You made it real easy and saved thousands having a big steak dinner and smile on your face. Thanks
Best ball joint replacement video. Thank you. Doing mine next week and I think I'll need a larger socket.
Thanks brother, good.luck!
You can spray the area a couple days prior all around the flange area, all the nuts / bolts & while disassembling, wire brush around to remove some surface rust to aid in the removal. Also, you can remove the Wheel bearing using your power steering by setting up an impact socket on some extensions from one wheel bearing mounting bolt to somewhere beefy on the diff or anywhere really, turn the wheel to the direction of which you are working and one at a time, turn the steering wheel SLOWLY until pressure is felt & then gradually turning in that direction... (engine on, exhaust ventilated, jackstands, etc) until it pops free. Aaaaand you can also avoid removing that 330 ft-lb torque axle shaft nut by simply removing the wheel bearing and axle shafts together (nut still torqued) as the front shafts do not have any retaining clips.
Hey great video and info. Do you think it makes a difference in terms of life span if they have a grease fitting? My '16 ram 2500 are due soon and not sure which way to go. How have yours held up? Thx
Clean,and clear 👌
awesome video, great job explaining and showing everything
Much appreciated!
I can verify that the axle nut is 1-11/16. Just did this on my 2012 ram 2500 diesel 4x4. Bought the socket at AutoZone since I needed it same day
Depends on the year… mine is a 2017 and is 34mm. Much smaller than 1-11/16
You ever have any problems with them yet. Just installing mine from originals. The package says not to push on the top portion
This video is an invaluable resource thank you! Where did you source your ball joints? Part number/Brand?
If I remember right I ordered them from RockAuto
My 2016 Ram 2500, Cummins axle nut is 33mm. Fyi for anyone else wanting to do this on a newer truck.
Great video
Dude, this was awesome! Mine are gone on my 2011 - 2500 Cummins (gonna do this next week). Really appreciate the video, thorough and straight to the point. Question: did you have to remove everything off the other side before you could remove the axle?
Hey, thanks a lot. I tried to make it as simple as possible... it really isn't that bad. The other side was the same... everything has to cone off to get the axle out. Last thing off would be the wheel bearing then the axle would come out
Wish you would have went over the lower ball joint a little better on the install! Thats the tough one, But good video! Thanks you
how did you know they were going bad, there is a squeaking/creaking noise when I turn my wheel to the right, I was told it sounds like the ball joint
Could wiggle it with the tire jacked up
What's brand are those ball joints and how are they holding up? You mentioned princess auto so I'm assuming you are Canadian?
Yea Canadian, they seem to be ok so far. I've bought the best and they didn't last 2 years so I guess it's just going to be common practice changing them every couple years. I don't remember the brand, it may be in the box in the video
Looked like MEVOTECH from Rock auto he said TXK7467 Ball Joint $ 49.79 $ 0.00 2 $ 99.58
MEVOTECH TXMS25506 Ball Joint $ 61.79 $ 0.00 2 $ 123.58
Shipping Ground $ 11.99
Tax $ 17.05
Order Total $ 252.20
Visa -$ 252.20
Balance Due $ 0.00
Great video!
Is there a grease you recommend for greasing the new ball joints ?
I think personally I go with a synthetic
Did you put the truck in 4x4 before doing this?
the vacuum disconnect front end or (CAD) (dodge) stopped the use of the CAD system in 02. 2003 to 2012 didnt have it, Dodge brought it back in 2013+ models. if your truck is a non CAD model you dont need to place the vehicle in 4wd
How are you liking the TTX ball joints? I’ll be replacing moogs on my 03 and don’t want moogs again.
Well they looked heavier then the moog I had spent a fortune on a few years ago hoping for a longer life span. So far, so good with the new ones
@@KendorFarmsare the ball joints still doing good?
@georgeramsey2827 I just replaced them about a month ago....
Why do you pull the axle back out a bit after you push it all the way in?
Can't remember but I do know that it comes out a bit after it goes through the bearing to be tightened. It doesn't sit bottomed out
Going to try this on my 2006. Same procedures?
Yea should be pretty much the same
@@KendorFarms thanks for the quick reply. Ordering parts today through rock auto. Got a couple of quotes from dealer and shop. 2700 for ball joints and bearing hub.
Would a Milwaukee 3/4 elec impact pull it down into the sock3t or would you need a air impact?
Battery would work just fine
@@KendorFarms thanks. I got a 3/4 corded Milwaukee impact
Nice work and video sir.
Do you need an alignment after doing this job?
Shouldn't if replacing with stock ball joints
My wife just bought me the 2010 dodge ram 2500 slt crew cab 6.7 ltr about 1 week ago and ive learned after swapping out the upper and ball joints i took it for an alignment and per manufactured there is no camber/caster to adjust. You need to buy the ball joints with proper camber /caster with + or - on it or is just me?? If so what the recommendation?
There should be a factory adjustable camber bolt on the front of the lower radius arm. I don't believe the camber has an adjustment like you say unless it's build into the ball joints, but unless something has happened to it or you need it for a certain type of tire the camber shouldn't need any adjustment
@@KendorFarms I wish that was the case I took it to brake plus they failed miserably and. I also took it to big o tires who actually got it close to right. Other then that everyone telling me there is no adjustment on these 4th gen dodges and has no adjustment specs according to manufacturer 🤷
I have brought my 2014 2500 in for upper ball joint replacement and was told there has to be a pre-alignment done as to determine which driver's side ball joint to order + or - as you have mentioned
@@waynet3454 Thank you for that response. I might take you up on it next time I do my ball joints I'll go the pre alignment and ordered the correct ball joints from + or - on it. I'm still learning so much about my truck and only problem I'm having is all emissions system... so there that. I already bought the monster ram I might install this weekend or next week
@@francisco-javiergarcia4264 How'd the monster ram install go?
My axle shaft nut on 2002 Dana 60 is 1-11/16”, I’m really having trouble breaking it free!!
Any suggestions??
Propane torch to help break it free and some penetrating oil
Use a sliding 3/4” Tbar breaker with a cheater bar
my dogs do same always jump in to my truck
Great job 👏
1and 5/16 inch for axle nut
Why not just leave the bearing attached to the axle and remove the 4 bolts from the back and pull both out as 1 assembly
Yea you can do that I guess
Good video!
Very good video
Ball joint delete. Bout $650 but it’s way better. All metal on metal nothing to wear out. If you do they replace them for free. American iron off-road.
Excellent
Thank you
A Boss!
Damn I gave RAM 2700 bucks to do both sides with bearings...
The price is insane at a shop!
I was quoted 1200-1500
This job can be a pain in the ass believe me if you do not have the right tools or your truck is extremely rusty and don't have time the best thing to do would be take it in I took 8 hours and work at a dealer 1000 thousand dollar ball joint press from Mac broke the lower was a pain in the ass did not budge with heat had to beat it out like a king pin !!
Also note used napas top line for customer they failed in 4000 miles get them from dealer or a higher end brand !
absolutely zero fucks given about cleaning anything prior to new parts getting put in
Who even does that
L