Great Video, and helped me a lot. A note for guys with older/high mileage trucks. I just pulled two ball joints from the front of my 2004 2500 with 100k miles on it and a good deal of rust (country road use before I got it). The only way I was able to get the bearing hub out of the knuckle was to use a full size sledge hammer. Yes, that's correct. Not a hand mallet. A 3' 8 pound sledge, or whatever. I knocked out the studs for the wheel, and then I used fairly long swings on the lower right and lower left of the stud flange, with a lot of force. After about 6 hits on the front left, I saw a crack. Took some whaling on it after that, turning the wheel direction each time, but it came off. I can promise you that no "trick" was going to get this thing off. The trick using the steering pneumatics, as the video's creator showed, in my opinion, and respectfully, because the creator did a great job with this video (especially the tip on the sensor and not trying to pull it out of the bearing hub), is not worth trying. The power steering is not going to apply very much pressure at all to the threaded bolt - if that is enough force to get your bearing hub out, than a few swings with a hand mallet is going to get you the same result. Also, there is about a 3/8" recess, so you have to work the bearing hub from both left and right - you can't just force it out from one side - it's in the recess too deeply. Thanks for the video.
@@andrewb2548 Thanks for watching, yea sometimes it’s takes a lot more to get it out And you have to straight man Handle it. Here in New Mexico we have no issues with rust like that. Glad you got it done though!!!’
Thank you so much! My local shop quoted me $3600 to do bearings and ball joints. With this video you saved me at least $2000. Thank you so much!! GREAT explanations and patience. Your videos are the best mechanic videos on youtube.
Your more than welcome. I’m very happy you where able to get it done and save so much money. I do my best to make my videos as detailed as I can! Thank you for watching !!
You are a talented teacher! I hope you post more videos of the Ram repairs or regular maintenance on your truck. Thank you for putting this together and sharing!
Thank you I’m glad you found this video useful. I plan on posting many more videos. I’ll have more time now to do so. Make sure to subscribe and click the bell so you’ll be notified when I post a new video.
Thank you so much for this demonstration. I couldn’t do this myself but it gave me a clear understanding of what was involved in this job when I took it into a shop to have it done.
The wheel bearing trick is fairly well known, But not to the rank amateur's, So thanks for including that. While working on a newly acquired Super-clean '03 2500 (with 54,800 one owner miles) --I had to have a friend turn the PS while I slugged away at the flanks of the upright (Knuckle). I also had to torch the crosses out of the U-joints, and then "Warm" the yoke ends before shocking them loose with a Ball-Pein", --As soon as they moved, I drove them out quickly with Home Depot--Ingersoll Rand Air Hammer with a flat end. I Torched the Ball-Joints out also, finished with little heat and a joint press. Everything back together with Anti-Seize or Loctite (as appropriate)... Since I figure I should leave my work with the assumption I'll be the next guy to go there again. because I probably will be...Also, you don't need to remove the brake caliper from the bracket, you can just unbolt the bracket and take it all off as one piece. Thanks for the really solid Vid and explanation, I'm sure even some seasoned mechanics may have learned at least one thing they didn't know before watching your Vid. I just wish my front end looked as "shiny-new" as yours!
Thanks, I try and be detailed for people to get the job done easier. I will have more videos coming soon I have been in the process of moving, but more videos coming soon
@@Okie-Tom They have Carli ball joints that are supposed to be the best but cost $940 a set of 4 They also have rebuildable Dynatrac ball joints that u can rebuild on truck I have only really used Moog ball joints mostly because customers want the cheaper option Hope this helps
Just did the ball joints, wheel bearing, and axle U joint on my driver side. Going to do the other side next weekend. Total cost for all the parts was $190 and $80 for the ball joint press.
I found out the upper joint is supposed to move up and down, but not sideways. I wonder how many replace the upper joint before its time cause it moves like that. Of course once your in there, the sane thing to do is replace all 4. The bottom ball joint bears all the up-down forces and weight of the truck, the upper joint only prevents side to side motion. It telescopes by design. K7460 is the part number for upper joint, K7467 for lower joint Certain Dodge/Ram trucks and Jeep vehicles with solid four-wheel-drive front axles use a telescoping upper ball joint. The stud telescopes a small amount to compensate for manufacturing variances in the tolerance of the axle and knuckle ears. This telescoping effect may result in the stud appearing: • As if it is too long, or too short • As if it has excessive play The stud is engineered to slide in and out of the housing. This DOES NOT indicate excessive play or any other issue with the part. This feature is necessary for correct part installation and function
Thanks for a really good video. I noticed you had issues installing the upper joint using the ball joint press. The press parts were metal to metal contact (not engaged with BJ) making it hard to press in. I had the same issue using an Advanced Auto rental tool. I went to O'reilley, and they had a 4 WD accessory kit that fit the BJ and made it easy to press in using the O'reilley press. Please continue to post these 2500 videos. I'll be watching.
Great video I I had to Replace upper and lower on both sides on my truck I have an 06 ram 06 ram And both of my best friends are mechanics mechanics at an automotive machine shop But they didn't want to do it they said you remember that truck of all back where you were standing up on the table beaten all afternoon with a Sled hammer Yes I remember never mind never mind the tool wouldn't work on that particular vehicle Cost me 450 bucks at a different shop
Excellent video. Now I understand how a shop likely damaged the seating area for an upper ball joint. Had to weld the ball joint in place after they created a loose hole. Later replaced the ball joint with a oversized knurled ball joint. Dynatrac set. Truck is long gone, but this video gave me a great education.
Yea I believe the labor is 1.4 hours per joint upper and 1.1 per joint lower if I remember correctly You should be able to get it done for half that price Thanks for watching!!!!
Nice video! easy to follow, and I'm not so intimidated anymore attacking my own ball joints that need replacement. I'm pondering on the Carli Extreme Duty .... but they are expensive.... :-/
Glad it help you out. Those are good ball joints and worth getting if u keep the truck! Unless you don’t mind doing the work to replace ball joints Then stick to a good quality ball joint that doesn’t break the bank lol Also look into EMF rebuildable ball joints
@@Jolaya03 I ended up ordering MevoTech TTX on recommendation from a friend of mine. Will most likely end up change them again at some point, if I keep the truck. (I probably do, since a 20 year old truck in Norway costs close to a brand new one does in US)
You can remove the hub with the axle attached. Unweioldy but then you don't have to retorque the hub axle nut to 263 ft/lbs. Also, if you disconnect the tie rod first you can rotate the knuckle to one side then the other to get better access to the hub bolts. Also, you can mar the inside of the top bore. Some even recommend using a punch on the bore to add dimples and create a tighter fit if too loose.
You could do that, but I didn’t mind re-torquing the axel nut. You could remove tie rod first which I have done when I’m working on the ground, but on a lift I had plenty of room to take off hub bolts. I would rather just get knurled ball joints and press in, which are tight enough against the bore. I’m sure there is other ways which work for others, whatever works for people is good as long as it’s done right. This videos is just a general how too of ball joint replacement and tools needed. Thanks for your ideas though. Always good to here others different ways of doing things to get a job done right!
Also always install unit bearing and axle at same time so the axle sits true , if ya leave the heavy axle hang by itself in there like you did it will egg the seal and possibly cause leaks , and as you mentioned that job sucks replacing seals
@@robertzettner4203 Hey there, it could be ball joints, or other parts of suspension. You will want to go under front of truck and check for any loose suspension components that could be worn. Check your ball joints, steering components, control arms, track bar, wheel bearings, etc. depending on how many miles are on it, it my be a good idea to replace most of the steering linkages and ball joints. Be sure to buy quality parts of your choosing. Thanks for watching!!!
I saw you took non knurled ones out, why did you put knurled ones back in? I’m replacing mine and I’m trying to figure out if I should put the non knurled back in.
It helps seat the ball joint a little better To fit a little tighter. The knurled ball joints are used as a replacement to those knuckles that are enlarged due to wear, or replacing existing knurled ball joints. When the bore is enlarged by installing the knurled ball joints then you are committed to use them and not go back to smooth ones Thanks for watching!
There is no wrong way to install a cotter pin. It's hole purpose is to stop the nut from backing off and as long g as it's through the stud then you're fine. It doesn't matter how you bend it. If you can't get it back off after bending both tabs and able to reuse it, sell your tools and stay away from vehicles.
Great video! Makes me more willing to try this myself. I was able to change my front band myself i think i can tackle this! Thank you for the information and solid presentation. My only question is any more info on the ball joint tool as in what all i need? I dont have that tool and will need to get one. Also that last big castle nut you put on what was its torque on it? Thank you for video and help!
Thanks for watching. I have a link for the ball joint press in the description Between 140-160 lb ft for lower ball joint for my application I usually torque to 140 and then try to put the cotter pin in, If it doesn’t go In just tighten to the next slot and slide the cotter pin in.
@@Diy-For-Life The axle nut is “132 ft lbs Beginning Torque, Then Rotate 5 to 10 ~ Times With a Final Torque of 263 ft lbs” But I cheated and gone to 250 on my big torque wrench and then just a smidge past the click 😬
thank you im having a hard time finding specs. my truck being mega cab sits on a 2500 chasi being 8 lugs. but truck is label 1500 because its 5.7l gas hemi @@Jolaya03
The ball joint on my 2008 4x4 hemi,driver side castle nut and cotter pin somehow became missing. The tire almost came off only held by cv axle into the hub. Besides ruining the ball joint did it possibly damage hub and cv axle?
If it was me I would replace the wheel hub bearing assembly for my peace of mind They are not very expensive. Then inspect the cv axle splines and and outer hub where the cv boot is for damage and replace if needed And of course lower ball joint and check upper ball joint for play since your already there.
I usually get a big screw driver stick between rotors vanes and brake caliper brakes to hold the axle from turning And torque down the nut with torque wrench. If u go to my other video with the gmc Forward video to 28.10 mark and it’s same prodded I use to tighten the ram axle nut.
How big of a ball joint press tool is needed as in the length of the C tool? And how big of a press bolt thread? I have seen these tools come in different reach lengths. I have a 2005 Ram 3500 4x4 diesel truck. I dont have to change them, all 4 have grease fittings.
No reason, i was in no rush to get done. I’m sure I could’ve saved a few minutes. But for a you tube video, people can see how to take off both separately.
I’ve actually done this same job on a black 07 ram 2500 with a floor jack and some jack stands at a buddy’s house with no issues. Just have to lift a little higher
@@Jolaya03 You are correct. There is enough clearance. Unfortunately had to go the other way because of the accessories on my ball joint set, and just stayed clear of damaging the upper ball joint socket. Thanks for posting your video, definitely helpful.
Lol with how easily everything came apart, aint no way this trucks been up north. I thought maaaaaybe until he got that C clip off with tiny needle nose pliers
brah gota polish spindle and unit bearing where they go together better , ya never even did the bearing , and use anti seize ,, , if ya live where theres rust happening ,make things easier for the next guy , good vid
U make a good point using anti seize, we live in New Mexico and don’t have any rust issues like that here, it’s too dry lol But I will keep that in mind for my next video and talk about it Thanks for watching!
Great Video, and helped me a lot. A note for guys with older/high mileage trucks. I just pulled two ball joints from the front of my 2004 2500 with 100k miles on it and a good deal of rust (country road use before I got it). The only way I was able to get the bearing hub out of the knuckle was to use a full size sledge hammer. Yes, that's correct. Not a hand mallet. A 3' 8 pound sledge, or whatever. I knocked out the studs for the wheel, and then I used fairly long swings on the lower right and lower left of the stud flange, with a lot of force. After about 6 hits on the front left, I saw a crack. Took some whaling on it after that, turning the wheel direction each time, but it came off. I can promise you that no "trick" was going to get this thing off. The trick using the steering pneumatics, as the video's creator showed, in my opinion, and respectfully, because the creator did a great job with this video (especially the tip on the sensor and not trying to pull it out of the bearing hub), is not worth trying. The power steering is not going to apply very much pressure at all to the threaded bolt - if that is enough force to get your bearing hub out, than a few swings with a hand mallet is going to get you the same result. Also, there is about a 3/8" recess, so you have to work the bearing hub from both left and right - you can't just force it out from one side - it's in the recess too deeply. Thanks for the video.
@@andrewb2548 Thanks for watching, yea sometimes it’s takes a lot more to get it out
And you have to straight man Handle it.
Here in New Mexico we have no issues with rust like that. Glad you got it done though!!!’
Thank you so much! My local shop quoted me $3600 to do bearings and ball joints. With this video you saved me at least $2000. Thank you so much!! GREAT explanations and patience. Your videos are the best mechanic videos on youtube.
Your more than welcome.
I’m very happy you where able to get it done and save so much money. I do my best to make my videos as detailed as I can!
Thank you for watching !!
You are a talented teacher! I hope you post more videos of the Ram repairs or regular maintenance on your truck. Thank you for putting this together and sharing!
Thank you I’m glad you found this video useful. I plan on posting many more videos. I’ll have more time now to do so. Make sure to subscribe and click the bell so you’ll be notified when I post a new video.
There is so much flown thru so I really wouldn’t attempt this, based on your video. But I’m sure it works for most people
Thanks for watching!!
Thank you so much for this demonstration. I couldn’t do this myself but it gave me a clear understanding of what was involved in this job when I took it into a shop to have it done.
Good, thanks for watching!!!!
This video is awesome, your presentation and tips are great in this video. Great job man keep posting videos like this on Dodge 2500 repairs!
Thank you for watching, I do my best to be detailed, I’ll keep that in mind for new videos on Ram trucks.
I also enjoyed watching your video! I’m fixing to update the steering on my 2006 Cummins. I’m preparing for the ball joints next.
The wheel bearing trick is fairly well known, But not to the rank amateur's, So thanks for including that.
While working on a newly acquired Super-clean '03 2500 (with 54,800 one owner miles) --I had to have a friend turn the PS while I slugged away at the flanks of the upright (Knuckle). I also had to torch the crosses out of the U-joints, and then "Warm" the yoke ends before shocking them loose with a Ball-Pein", --As soon as they moved, I drove them out quickly with Home Depot--Ingersoll Rand Air Hammer with a flat end. I Torched the Ball-Joints out also, finished with little heat and a joint press. Everything back together with Anti-Seize or Loctite (as appropriate)... Since I figure I should leave my work with the assumption I'll be the next guy to go there again. because I probably will be...Also, you don't need to remove the brake caliper from the bracket, you can just unbolt the bracket and take it all off as one piece.
Thanks for the really solid Vid and explanation, I'm sure even some seasoned mechanics may have learned at least one thing they didn't know before watching your Vid.
I just wish my front end looked as "shiny-new" as yours!
Thank for the video. Lots of good tips I wouldn’t have thought of!
Thanks, I try and be detailed for people to get the job done easier. I will have more videos coming soon
I have been in the process of moving, but more videos coming soon
Best one on this topic I’ve seen thanks
Thanks for watching!!!!
thank you very much for your teaching I learned a lot I greet you from North Dakota I am from El Salvador
Awesome, so glad I could help you with this video!!!
Fixing to do this on my 2006 Dodge Cummins. Thank you for the detailed video! Tom
Thanks for watching
What is the very best brand of ball joints to use on the 2006 Dodge Cummins?
@@Okie-Tom They have Carli ball joints that are supposed to be the best but cost $940 a set of 4
They also have rebuildable Dynatrac ball joints that u can rebuild on truck
I have only really used Moog ball joints mostly because customers want the cheaper option
Hope this helps
Your a life saver,thank you!!
Glad the video helped!!
Just did the ball joints, wheel bearing, and axle U joint on my driver side. Going to do the other side next weekend.
Total cost for all the parts was $190 and $80 for the ball joint press.
@@SandersChicken Glad u got it done, thanks for watching!!!
I found out the upper joint is supposed to move up and down, but not sideways.
I wonder how many replace the upper joint before its time cause it moves like that. Of course once your in there, the sane thing to do is replace all 4. The bottom ball joint bears all the up-down forces and weight of the truck, the upper joint only prevents side to side motion. It telescopes by design. K7460 is the part number for upper joint, K7467 for lower joint
Certain Dodge/Ram trucks and Jeep vehicles with solid
four-wheel-drive front axles use a telescoping upper ball
joint. The stud telescopes a small amount to compensate
for manufacturing variances in the tolerance of the axle
and knuckle ears.
This telescoping effect may result in the stud appearing:
• As if it is too long, or too short
• As if it has excessive play
The stud is engineered to slide in and out of the housing.
This DOES NOT indicate excessive play or any other issue
with the part. This feature is necessary for correct part
installation and function
Amazing tutorial! I would, however, recommend a ratcheting breaker bar. It helps a LOT!
@@C71-m1l Thank you for watching!Yea, I broke mine and didn’t have it at that time I did this job
Very nicely done! One of the best Ive seen. Thanks for taking the time.
Thanks for watching, I do my best for detail in doing the job !
subscribe for help to build channel !
Question: Did you need to have the transfer case in neutral when removing the axle? I'm getting ready to rebuild the entire front end on my 06.
I did not have in neutral, I left in 2wd
@@Jolaya03 thank you. Keep up the good work!
Great video. Professional as it gets
Great video! Appreciate the explanations
Thanks for watching!!!
Good video, perfect reference for when I do mine.
Glad to know!! Thanks for watching.
Excellent video Amigo thanks for sharing and taking the time.
Thanks for watching!!!
Ty for the video, helped me out today much appreciated
Glad to help!!
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for a really good video. I noticed you had issues installing the upper joint using the ball joint press. The press parts were metal to metal contact (not engaged with BJ) making it hard to press in. I had the same issue using an Advanced Auto rental tool. I went to O'reilley, and they had a 4 WD accessory kit that fit the BJ and made it easy to press in using the O'reilley press. Please continue to post these 2500 videos. I'll be watching.
Thanks for watching
Yea sometimes they have to be just right so they go in smooth and not bind up.👍
Thank you very much for the information it helped me a lot.
You’re more than welcome thanks for watching my videos!!
Great video I I had to Replace upper and lower on both sides on my truck I have an 06 ram 06 ram And both of my best friends are mechanics mechanics at an automotive machine shop But they didn't want to do it they said you remember that truck of all back where you were standing up on the table beaten all afternoon with a Sled hammer Yes I remember never mind never mind the tool wouldn't work on that particular vehicle Cost me 450 bucks at a different shop
Thanks for watching!!
Excellent video. Now I understand how a shop likely damaged the seating area for an upper ball joint.
Had to weld the ball joint in place after they created a loose hole. Later replaced the ball joint with a oversized knurled ball joint. Dynatrac set.
Truck is long gone, but this video gave me a great education.
Awesome!! I’m glad I was able to give u insite. 👍
Wow and my local shop (Arrigo Sawgrass) quoted me 4500.00 to do mine based on 10 hours of labor. You did it in less than 2
Yea I believe the labor is 1.4 hours per joint upper and 1.1 per joint lower if I remember correctly
You should be able to get it done for half that price
Thanks for watching!!!!
4500!???? That’s goddamn criminal
Nice video! easy to follow, and I'm not so intimidated anymore attacking my own ball joints that need replacement. I'm pondering on the Carli Extreme Duty .... but they are expensive.... :-/
Glad it help you out. Those are good ball joints and worth getting if u keep the truck!
Unless you don’t mind doing the work to replace ball joints
Then stick to a good quality ball joint that doesn’t break the bank lol
Also look into EMF rebuildable ball joints
@@Jolaya03 I ended up ordering MevoTech TTX on recommendation from a friend of mine. Will most likely end up change them again at some point, if I keep the truck. (I probably do, since a 20 year old truck in Norway costs close to a brand new one does in US)
I’ve used MevoTech before and have had no problems with them.
Especially MevoTech TTX they seem to be better quality than moog, in my experience. 👍
You can remove the hub with the axle attached. Unweioldy but then you don't have to retorque the hub axle nut to 263 ft/lbs.
Also, if you disconnect the tie rod first you can rotate the knuckle to one side then the other to get better access to the hub bolts.
Also, you can mar the inside of the top bore. Some even recommend using a punch on the bore to add dimples and create a tighter fit if too loose.
You could do that, but I didn’t mind
re-torquing the axel nut.
You could remove tie rod first which I have done when I’m working on the ground, but on a lift I had plenty of room to take off hub bolts.
I would rather just get knurled ball joints and press in, which are tight enough against the bore.
I’m sure there is other ways which work for others, whatever works for people is good as long as it’s done right.
This videos is just a general how too of ball joint replacement and tools needed.
Thanks for your ideas though. Always good to here others different ways of doing things to get a job done right!
@@Jolaya03 And thank you for taking the time to make the video in the first place. Cheers!
Great video and explanations!
Thanks for watching!!!
Dodge is in good shape
Yes it was, here in the southwest we don’t get no rust really so everything looks good still
Thanks for watching!!
If you know you are going to do it a few days in advance hit the backside of the hub with wd40 and let it soak. Makes life much easier
Yea that does help, especially in places that are rust prone.
Thanks for watching!
Good vid man the gloves made me nauseous lol but well done 👍
best video I have seen
Thank you I’m working on new content.
Also always install unit bearing and axle at same time so the axle sits true , if ya leave the heavy axle hang by itself in there like you did it will egg the seal and possibly cause leaks , and as you mentioned that job sucks replacing seals
It’s a possibility, I’ve haven’t had a problem in the last 20 years or so
But good tip. 👍
Question I just bought a 2003 dodge ram 2500 and if your going 65mph and hit a bump it does the death wobble lol what would that be the ball joints?
@@robertzettner4203 Hey there, it could be ball joints, or other parts of suspension. You will want to go under front of truck and check for any loose suspension components that could be worn. Check your ball joints, steering components, control arms, track bar, wheel bearings, etc.
depending on how many miles are on it, it my be a good idea to replace most of the steering linkages and ball joints. Be sure to buy quality parts of your choosing. Thanks for watching!!!
Great video- great job!
Thank you for watching !!
I saw you took non knurled ones out, why did you put knurled ones back in? I’m replacing mine and I’m trying to figure out if I should put the non knurled back in.
It helps seat the ball joint a little better
To fit a little tighter.
The knurled ball joints are used as a replacement to those knuckles that are enlarged due to wear, or replacing existing knurled ball joints. When the bore is enlarged by installing the knurled ball joints then you are committed to use them and not go back to smooth ones
Thanks for watching!
Great video help alot!!
What about greasing the ball joint where it presses into the axle housing ears? To keep out water and rust.
I personally rather have a dry fit and never really seen much rust in that part
Mine on my old Dodge were near impossible to remove axle castle nut and hub bearing. Really difficult and the steering trick didn't even move it.
Yea, I’ve seen some that bad. I’m glad I live in the southwest lol. Thanks for watching!!
There is no wrong way to install a cotter pin. It's hole purpose is to stop the nut from backing off and as long g as it's through the stud then you're fine. It doesn't matter how you bend it. If you can't get it back off after bending both tabs and able to reuse it, sell your tools and stay away from vehicles.
Do you have to drain the diff fluid first then remove the axle ?
No you do not have to drain diff at all, just pull out axle. Thanks for watching!!
Great video! Makes me more willing to try this myself. I was able to change my front band myself i think i can tackle this! Thank you for the information and solid presentation. My only question is any more info on the ball joint tool as in what all i need? I dont have that tool and will need to get one. Also that last big castle nut you put on what was its torque on it? Thank you for video and help!
Thanks for watching.
I have a link for the ball joint press in the description
Between 140-160 lb ft for lower ball joint for my application
I usually torque to 140 and then try to put the cotter pin in, If it doesn’t go In just tighten to the next slot and slide the cotter pin in.
@@Jolaya03 thank you, and for castle nut i was refering to the 1" 11/16 end of axle nut. Thanks for link
@@Diy-For-Life The axle nut is “132 ft lbs Beginning Torque, Then Rotate 5 to 10 ~ Times With a Final Torque of 263 ft lbs”
But I cheated and gone to 250 on my big torque wrench and then just a smidge past the click 😬
hey do you know if this torque specs are similar to the 2007 dodge ram mega cab 4x4
I am not sure been a while since I’ve done one of those trucks
I usually go to all days for torque specs though
thank you im having a hard time finding specs. my truck being mega cab sits on a 2500 chasi being 8 lugs. but truck is label 1500 because its 5.7l gas hemi @@Jolaya03
@@victornaja-paz5241 i meant to say ALLDATA.com for the torque specs u need for your particular truck.
The ball joint on my 2008 4x4 hemi,driver side castle nut and cotter pin somehow became missing. The tire almost came off only held by cv axle into the hub. Besides ruining the ball joint did it possibly damage hub and cv axle?
If it was me I would replace the wheel hub bearing assembly for my peace of mind
They are not very expensive.
Then inspect the cv axle splines and and outer hub where the cv boot is for damage and replace if needed
And of course lower ball joint and check upper ball joint for play since your already there.
Está bien echo el trabajo, pero al tener todas las herramientas más el extractor de rótulas hay pasos que simplifican mucho más el proceso..
Thanks for watching the video. Yes the tools make it much easier.
You should show how to torque axle nut
I usually get a big screw driver stick between rotors vanes and brake caliper brakes to hold the axle from turning
And torque down the nut with torque wrench.
If u go to my other video with the gmc
Forward video to 28.10 mark and it’s same prodded I use to tighten the ram axle nut.
Should put neversieze on the hub before the rotors go on.
We don’t really get any rust here in the southwest, but I can see your point for anywhere in the rust belt
Wish I would have watched this video before diving in head first. Would have had less headaches
Thanks for watching!!!
Next time will be easier hopefully!!!
Keep it up.
Thanks for watching!!
Well done but clean all first
Do you have any more tips for removing the hubs I tried the adapter and steering it still won’t give
Yes I haven’t made video on it
But here is a video that shows u
ruclips.net/video/-bzr_4DLKG0/видео.html
Thanks so much I understand it more know
Just curious why you didn’t use your impact to remove the ball joints?
I had a real bad eczema flareup and the vibration of the tool bothered my hands that’s why you see the white glove on
Thanks for watching!
@@Jolaya03 thanks for the reply. Have to do a set on my truck and was curious if it would wreck anything. Thanks for the video
@@dereknorthway172 Just watch ball joint to make sure ball joint is going in strait, sometimes they bind up sideways as they press in. 👍
Awesome video. Very informative.
Thank you, I try to make videos as informative as possible. I have more videos coming 👍
I have a 2015 Ram 3500. I will be replacing the hubs and ball joints soon.
How long did it take you to do one side ?
About 3.5 hours took my time
What's the nut size for the lower ball joint?
Thanks for watching, sorry I don’t remember the size of that nut
I need to know the same thing
How big of a ball joint press tool is needed as in the length of the C tool? And how big of a press bolt thread? I have seen these tools come in different reach lengths. I have a 2005 Ram 3500 4x4 diesel truck. I dont have to change them, all 4 have grease fittings.
I have the tool I used in the description, it works great.
Just check for play in the joints and if none grease them up
why not pull the caliper mount and caliper as one piece and save time.
No reason, i was in no rush to get done. I’m sure I could’ve saved a few minutes. But for a you tube video, people can see how to take off both separately.
What model of ball joint press did you use? Gonna be doing my ball joints in a few weeks.
Click the link in description, it’s the powerbuilt kit for $155
Thanks for watching!
Great video. Only comment i have is you're too aggressive with your torque wrench lol pulling past the click will increase chances of breaking
The second way you did that bottom ball joint installation looks impossible without a lift.
I’ve actually done this same job on a black 07 ram 2500 with a floor jack and some jack stands at a buddy’s house with no issues.
Just have to lift a little higher
@@Jolaya03 You are correct. There is enough clearance. Unfortunately had to go the other way because of the accessories on my ball joint set, and just stayed clear of damaging the upper ball joint socket. Thanks for posting your video, definitely helpful.
@@dan10400 Awesome glad to help, enjoy driving on new ball joints lol. 👍
Lol with how easily everything came apart, aint no way this trucks been up north. I thought maaaaaybe until he got that C clip off with tiny needle nose pliers
Lol true. In New Mexico = 0 rust lol
Definitely lucky!
brah gota polish spindle and unit bearing where they go together better , ya never even did the bearing , and use anti seize ,, , if ya live where theres rust happening ,make things easier for the next guy , good vid
U make a good point using anti seize, we live in New Mexico and don’t have any rust issues like that here, it’s too dry lol
But I will keep that in mind for my next video and talk about it
Thanks for watching!
Done 2oo3 Reve Sensor Lade Ane dear Inja
Constantino Teixeira
How long did it take to do for that one side?
About 1.5 hours, not rushing
Lol. At 11:25 he calls it a u-joint. Just saying.
Lol as many times as I seen this video editing and I never caught that 😂
Very good video thanks a lot best regards from Mty
Thanks for watching