I may have to give that a shot. I am going to build a volks air compressor and will never use a clutch. I still haven't gotten the engine apart, but wish I had not proceeded down this path.
vwdarrin's comment is right on! From an old-timer: that's one of the scrapers from a 3-piece oil ring. Forget what tiny engine but it needs to have 2.75"/70mm bore. Same size as outside of #1 main bearing flange. EVEN EASIER/CHEAPER/WEIRDER... Cut a full circle (or two in a pinch) from an original kid's SLINKY toy. Wraps around # 1 brg, cut thrust to match. It ain't a new case but it works!
I know im asking the wrong place but does any of you know a method to log back into an Instagram account?? I somehow forgot the login password. I would love any help you can offer me!
@Stanley Reyansh I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm in the hacking process now. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Wow his bearing was totally starting to walk! That's crazy man. The first time Spence and I built our motor it did that because of a bad line bore and we ended up having to tear it apart less than two months after getting it together 😣 lesson learned, do it right the first time haha. (We also learned, if shit happens go bigger 😂) Thanks for the info of the thrust cut thickness specs, I didn't know that!
Dust Buggy just trying to spread what little I know 😁 As for your situation, learning as you go is one way to do it and honestly sometimes the best way to learn. Shit does happen, deep breath, get a game plan together and move on.
Thanks for the video. I am just going thru this same issue right now. Can’t get the endplay I need. Already have 3- .010 shims in and I still have .026 endplay and can’t get enough shim to set it with three so checking and I have this same issue. Looks like new case.
Great video! We recently purchased a line boring tool kit from Grant! and Frank is gonna teach us how to line bore and thrust cut cases, your video was quite helpful in understanding:) -Dalton & GMAN
@@VWJawbreaker not sure if you’re busy tomorrow but we are actually having Frank come over tomorrow to teach us how to use the line bore and I know it’s short notice but you are more then welcome to join us tomorrow morning! :)🤘🏻 we’ll of course be filming the process too! -Dalton
Good info Gary , is that where they typical stamp the case if its been line bored. How do you measure the bore in the case to verify . I guess a quick check you can measure the OD Dia. of the bearings , but do you check the case with a bore guage ?? Reason for the questions, I have about 4 single port motors i need to pull apart and check that came out of 2 buses and 2 beetles.
Dan Love yes correct buddy, you want to check the overall diameter of the case where the bearing goes. There are charts on line that will tell you how big the diameter is vs if it’s been cut and possibly how many times. I can also send you a chart if I can find it. Not all people who line bore and thrust cut cases stamp the case, but it should be stamped on the top of the case somewhere.
i been having my motors built by fisher buggies in tampa and when i bring one back they always tell me oh you need a new case this has been going on for over ten years ! i am an old guy that has the qualification and experience to fix these cases ,,,and of course at my age all my equipment has been sold ,,,,,murphys law is still here getting us at times LOL ,,,,,thanks nice vid sometimes i wonder at age 67 and this being a hobby but the people doing the work today seem to not care about their customers like they should , is it worth going out and re re re buying tools all over again so i can get it done right ? just saying
I know one of the engine guys at Fisher, I’ve always heard good things from them. I guess anyone can have a bad experience anywhere anymore. I looked into the case tools but it is quite pricey and I don’t do enough engines to justify spending that much money. Luckily I have a guy that’s a few hours away that’s really good and particularly anal on everything.
There is actually a very easy repair for the thrust, which I've used in the past, not often, but I've used it. Cut the thrust face until it cleans up. Buy a set of piston rings from an 1100cc Mk1 Golf (I think you guys called this one a Rabbit??). Use one of the rings as a spacer - fit it into the bearing. Measure things and machine bearing to fit into case with this ring installed.
Someone else mentioned using a piston ring also, I believe from a lawnmower or something. We were able to score another case and transfer everything over with new main bearings.
It is not correct to cut the case thrust surface to fit a OS thrust bearing. The proper way is to do the opposite. After the align bore you skim the thrust surface till it just cleans, then cut the OS bearing on a lathe hand fitting it to the case. This way you do not waste the thrust surface of the case, and you can get it tight. Important to get a tight thrust fit. Mark the bearing and the case at the dowel pin and tap it down with a plastic hammer.
Do you know the symptoms of having the bearing move around like this? At the end you said that it happens with normal use over time, just wondering what to look for in the future! I would ask Spence but he's asleep 😅
Dust Buggy an easy sign is if you start getting excessive end play, that usually means it’s time for a bottom end rebuild. That rear bearing along with the 3 shins sets your end play to .003-.005”, if it’s getting worse over time, that’s due to bearing / case wear. Adding more shins won’t cure it.
@@VWJawbreaker that's actually what happened our first engine build, bad line bore and the bearing almost walked. I thought maybe you could tell before you found a pile of oil pouring from your block 🙃😅
Dust Buggy if you push and pull back and forth on your main pulley on the crank, of the pulley moves in and out a lot and has loud clunking noises, it’s time to pull the engine and split the case. If the end play is set properly you will slightly be able to move the pulley but barley noticeable and barley a clunk.
OBTW, to avoid letting your case ever get so EXTREMELY worn, make it a practice to grab your crank pulley & see if it "clunks" in & out at all (more than the normal .003-005" end play) You will notice when/if thrust bearing is getting loose. Try this at home! Best when engine is not running.
Yes I’m aware of end play and how to check it. This video was put out for the person who that engine belongs to so he could see what was going on. Thanks for commenting and have a safe week.
Hey Bro , They Always Mark the Case Some where If Its been line Bored or Thrust Cut Don"t They ? I Can"t Find any Outer Markings on Bess Any Where , Behind the Flywheel where that one was Marked i Haven"t Split the Cases , But the End play was OK and oil Pressure and No Major Noises So im Just Ganna Put New Stock Barrels and pistons In And When I Save up More Money , Then i Wil lStrip it down and Rebuild For more HP and Stroke
I have seen some cases not marked when it was line bored or thrust cut. It depends on the person doing the machine work. If your bearings fit snug and your oil clearances are fine, put it back together 🤙
as soon as i saw that #1 brg I knew it was done. not pretty sure its junk it is. i know someone that has some aligned bored used cases for sale I think one is a bus
JC Quick I got him squared away with a different case. He’s been back up and running now for a few weeks. I’ll keep you in mind if I ever need a case. There is also a guy in DeBary that I’ve been using since he’s close to me who also has a few spare cases. It’s good to know people!
We could have fixed it but that would have been an expense he couldn’t pay. It was easier to swap everything over to another case that had already been machined.
you can ues a piston ring from a briggs & stratton as a shim between the thrust and the bearing if you want to save the case
Your a genius Darrin, that's for commenting. Thank you for sharing all your knowledge to the VW community.
vwdarrin I’ve heard the same somewhere else before and I wanted to ask you about that a few weeks back but I forgot.
@@VWJawbreaker thats an old GEX trick
The man with the plan Vwdarrin!!
I may have to give that a shot. I am going to build a volks air compressor and will never use a clutch. I still haven't gotten the engine apart, but wish I had not proceeded down this path.
vwdarrin's comment is right on! From an old-timer: that's one of the scrapers from a 3-piece oil ring. Forget what tiny engine but it needs to have 2.75"/70mm bore. Same size as outside of #1 main bearing flange. EVEN EASIER/CHEAPER/WEIRDER... Cut a full circle (or two in a pinch) from an original kid's SLINKY toy. Wraps around # 1 brg, cut thrust to match. It ain't a new case but it works!
If someone wants to “repair” a case that way, that’s up to them. We opted for a different case for him to use.
Best explanation of Thrust Bearing and operation I’ve heard 👍👍👍
@@inthelandofmilkandhoney457 thank you, i appreciate that. I’m not an expert, just a guy learning from his mistakes and experiences along the way.
@@VWJawbreaker Your Welcome 👍
Very well explained. You are a natural teacher, I think. I learned about thrust cuts and the VW bus minimum specifications on this one. Thanks Gary!
Good Old Mike's Garage I love the “I think” 😂
Good Old Mike's Garage this applies to all type 1 engines
Awesome video man! We need more of these! Good stuff! Thanks for sharing! From the wise words of GOMG "You are a natural teacher, I think." =)
CT “I think” lol
He cracks me up!
I know im asking the wrong place but does any of you know a method to log back into an Instagram account??
I somehow forgot the login password. I would love any help you can offer me!
@Alaric Marvin instablaster =)
@Stanley Reyansh I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm in the hacking process now.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Stanley Reyansh it worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my account :D
It's 3:30 in the morning here in Cali and I should be finishing a video...and yet here I am 😂
Dust Buggy damn, I was knocked out lol
Great info Gary, I enjoy your videos, and learn from them. Thanks!
William Cronin thank you!
Well explained. I have seen spacers used to take up the play in the thrust bearing. I am not sure how well they last.
I’ve heard of others doing that as well but your concern is exactly why i haven’t tried…. I’m worried about longevity.
Thanks for the information!!! I'm going to forget it later though... Keep up the great work!!
VeeDub P8 that’s the beauty of RUclips, it’ll always be there for you to reference when you need it!
Wow his bearing was totally starting to walk! That's crazy man. The first time Spence and I built our motor it did that because of a bad line bore and we ended up having to tear it apart less than two months after getting it together 😣 lesson learned, do it right the first time haha. (We also learned, if shit happens go bigger 😂)
Thanks for the info of the thrust cut thickness specs, I didn't know that!
Dust Buggy just trying to spread what little I know 😁
As for your situation, learning as you go is one way to do it and honestly sometimes the best way to learn. Shit does happen, deep breath, get a game plan together and move on.
My what a nice pair of comp eliminators you have there. Nice job on the video
Matt Lundquist I wish they were mine but we both know who those belong to.
agreed! nice job!
Thank you sir.
Thanks for the video. I am just going thru this same issue right now. Can’t get the endplay I need. Already have 3- .010 shims in and
I still have .026 endplay and can’t get enough shim to set it with three so checking and I have this same issue. Looks like new case.
They make shims of different thickness, shop around and see what you can find.
Wow my friend that's great information
Thank you for the feedback 🤙
Great video!
We recently purchased a line boring tool kit from Grant! and Frank is gonna teach us how to line bore and thrust cut cases, your video was quite helpful in understanding:)
-Dalton & GMAN
Oh man, shoot me the details on what you got…. I may end up going this route as well.
@@VWJawbreaker not sure if you’re busy tomorrow but we are actually having Frank come over tomorrow to teach us how to use the line bore and I know it’s short notice but you are more then welcome to join us tomorrow morning! :)🤘🏻
we’ll of course be filming the process too!
-Dalton
@@JustBugginVW I’d love to man and I appreciate the invite…. But I have to work tomorrow 😞
@@VWJawbreaker aww darn haha but understandable! well after Frank schools us maybe if you ever need any help with Line boring we can help:)🤙🏻
Good info Gary , is that where they typical stamp the case if its been line bored. How do you measure the bore in the case to verify . I guess a quick check you can measure the OD Dia. of the bearings , but do you check the case with a bore guage ?? Reason for the questions, I have about 4 single port motors i need to pull apart and check that came out of 2 buses and 2 beetles.
Dan Love yes correct buddy, you want to check the overall diameter of the case where the bearing goes. There are charts on line that will tell you how big the diameter is vs if it’s been cut and possibly how many times. I can also send you a chart if I can find it. Not all people who line bore and thrust cut cases stamp the case, but it should be stamped on the top of the case somewhere.
Fantastic information... great job with the explanation.
JW Classic VW thanks man, I did my best lol
i been having my motors built by fisher buggies in tampa and when i bring one back they always tell me oh you need a new case this has been going on for over ten years ! i am an old guy that has the qualification and experience to fix these cases ,,,and of course at my age all my equipment has been sold ,,,,,murphys law is still here getting us at times LOL ,,,,,thanks nice vid sometimes i wonder at age 67 and this being a hobby but the people doing the work today seem to not care about their customers like they should , is it worth going out and re re re buying tools all over again so i can get it done right ? just saying
I know one of the engine guys at Fisher, I’ve always heard good things from them. I guess anyone can have a bad experience anywhere anymore.
I looked into the case tools but it is quite pricey and I don’t do enough engines to justify spending that much money. Luckily I have a guy that’s a few hours away that’s really good and particularly anal on everything.
There is actually a very easy repair for the thrust, which I've used in the past, not often, but I've used it.
Cut the thrust face until it cleans up.
Buy a set of piston rings from an 1100cc Mk1 Golf (I think you guys called this one a Rabbit??).
Use one of the rings as a spacer - fit it into the bearing. Measure things and machine bearing to fit into case with this ring installed.
Someone else mentioned using a piston ring also, I believe from a lawnmower or something. We were able to score another case and transfer everything over with new main bearings.
It is not correct to cut the case thrust surface to fit a OS thrust bearing. The proper way is to do the opposite. After the align bore you skim the thrust surface till it just cleans, then cut the OS bearing on a lathe hand fitting it to the case. This way you do not waste the thrust surface of the case, and you can get it tight. Important to get a tight thrust fit. Mark the bearing and the case at the dowel pin and tap it down with a plastic hammer.
👍
Super freaking HELPFUL. Explained perfectly thank youuuuuu!!
Glad you found it useful, as long as one person gains something from a video, that’s a win for me!
Very interesting
Do you know the symptoms of having the bearing move around like this? At the end you said that it happens with normal use over time, just wondering what to look for in the future! I would ask Spence but he's asleep 😅
Dust Buggy an easy sign is if you start getting excessive end play, that usually means it’s time for a bottom end rebuild. That rear bearing along with the 3 shins sets your end play to .003-.005”, if it’s getting worse over time, that’s due to bearing / case wear. Adding more shins won’t cure it.
@@VWJawbreaker that's actually what happened our first engine build, bad line bore and the bearing almost walked. I thought maybe you could tell before you found a pile of oil pouring from your block 🙃😅
Dust Buggy if you push and pull back and forth on your main pulley on the crank, of the pulley moves in and out a lot and has loud clunking noises, it’s time to pull the engine and split the case.
If the end play is set properly you will slightly be able to move the pulley but barley noticeable and barley a clunk.
OBTW, to avoid letting your case ever get so EXTREMELY worn, make it a practice to grab your crank pulley & see if it "clunks" in & out at all (more than the normal .003-005" end play) You will notice when/if thrust bearing is getting loose. Try this at home! Best when engine is not running.
Yes I’m aware of end play and how to check it. This video was put out for the person who that engine belongs to so he could see what was going on. Thanks for commenting and have a safe week.
Hey Bro , They Always Mark the Case Some where If Its been line Bored or Thrust Cut Don"t They ?
I Can"t Find any Outer Markings on Bess Any Where , Behind the Flywheel where that one was Marked
i Haven"t Split the Cases , But the End play was OK and oil Pressure and No Major Noises
So im Just Ganna Put New Stock Barrels and pistons In
And When I Save up More Money , Then i Wil lStrip it down and Rebuild For more HP and Stroke
I have seen some cases not marked when it was line bored or thrust cut. It depends on the person doing the machine work.
If your bearings fit snug and your oil clearances are fine, put it back together 🤙
Cheers bro
as soon as i saw that #1 brg I knew it was done. not pretty sure its junk it is. i know someone that has some aligned bored used cases for sale I think one is a bus
JC Quick I got him squared away with a different case. He’s been back up and running now for a few weeks. I’ll keep you in mind if I ever need a case. There is also a guy in DeBary that I’ve been using since he’s close to me who also has a few spare cases. It’s good to know people!
Good info.
Romeo thanks, hope you found it useful.
What happend to an 80 80 case they run fine
I personally wouldn’t run a case that’s been cut that much on a line bore.
@@VWJawbreaker why not bearing stronger than case have never had issue yet building since 1963
My case is worse, but i live in 2022, we have the technology to rebuild it 😅
We could have fixed it but that would have been an expense he couldn’t pay. It was easier to swap everything over to another case that had already been machined.
@@VWJawbreaker im in MEXICO, thas why i gotta hustle a bit more 👍
Mexican cut the bearing to fit the case after minimal trust cut
This common problem vw case end bearing shit 💩
Yes sir, sucks when this happens.