Hey everyone, I know there have been a lot of comment's the past few months I haven't responded to. I'll be recording more content and answering those questions once winter pushes out of here.
This was the most useful version of how to backup a belay device because it was simple easy to see easy to understand and now I don’t have to go out and buy more rope I can use the tag end of my tether.
If you are using a madrock safeguard, they do not recommend that you put an autoblock below the device. If the device slips too far, it will keep the autoblock from grabbing or the autoblock can interfere with the safeguard grabbing. Maybe that is not an issue with other devices like the grigri. I would think that putting the autoblock above the rappel device, once you are at hunting height, would be the safer option as a backup. Or just tie a stopper on a bight as you also suggest.
Forgive me if I misspoke in the video, I would use a blocking knot so the tail end of the rope cannot go through the device. I only use the Autoblock or other fiction hitches ABOVE my assisted breaking device as a means to help me ascend.
Thank you for your video. I am looking into starting to saddle hunt. Most of the videos show the mechanical ascenders on the tender and some even on the lineman rope. But rarely to you see a backup on them. These are people who are actually doing "how to" videos. The reason I am looking at saddle hunting is it appears to be safer than tree stand hunting. You are attached to the tree before you even leave the ground. I want to learn the right way. Not the quick way. The important thing about hunting is not bagging the animal. Its going back home safe.
Appreciate this man! Will be using a blocking knot today and going forward with my safeguard! Seems like it’s definitely worth the 5 seconds it takes to tie. Thanks
Great info and I follow the same rule - one is none, two is one, etc..., even when tying things off in my truck. People think it’s overkill but I don’t lose things. At 55 I tend to forget things as well and having back up systems is required. Thanks
Found this video very helpful. I use the Madrock and never see anyone show a safety Blocking Knot. I will implodent this. Also, what carabiner is that you have on your bridge?
Good question, if the bridge breaks on any saddle while hunting it is a total failure and manufacture defect (in my case I’m at fault as I’m prototyping my product), same with a rock climbing harness; climbing is inherently dangerous. For those that like the lineman’s belt you can clip that in with the bridge line, or you could tie a small bite knot on the tail end of your tether/ rope and clip into one of the bridge line attachment points; that would at a level of redundancy. Great question!
Doubtful, but as I may or may not have stated I 1 don’t have the most experience with the safeguard and 2 d not think they are appropriate for our use. I’ll try to make another video on that topic when time allows between work, hunting and life.
Yeah they will. I opt for the gri gri because I use my rappel line from the beginning and it minimizes the transition of ascending device to descending device, which is another point of potential mishaps and falling from the tree.
I'm brand new with saddle hunting but have climbed trees for a few years so I'm comfortable in a tree but it's a different animal in some aspects, the biggest one is I wasn't climbing a tree at 4am in the dark lol. If I could add any advise it would be get familiar with your gear and practice over and over and trust your gear but never get complacent! That stopper knot by the mechanical device is an excellent idea. Im a fan of a Kong Duck on a Lineman rope but a friction hitch for a tether. Also going to add...inspect your equipment after each climb, Im sure a razor sharp broadhead would make short work cutting through a rope.
All good stuff there. Build that muscle memory; I do everything the same way, I put everything in the same place so when it’s 4am and I’m tired or it’s 6pm and I’m tired and cold I know my up and down will be done correctly.
Manufacturer suggest not backing up this device or any other belay device, especially when using it in a non ground belaying way. The reasoning apparently is the backup could get jammed in the device and actually hold the cam open and it’ll free slide.
Can you provide me the link to Petzl NA’s website where you found that information? As a mountain and climbing guide going “hands free” is a must in many different situations, a quick blocking not on the tail end blocks the rope from going through the device and the individual attached from sliding to the ground.
I'm new to saddle hunting this year. I bought the CRUZR kit with 8mm rope upgrades. I use the ropeman/duck on my tether and my lineman belt. Both already have prusik knots installed. What is the best way to back both up? I also have 2 extra carabiners available. Can i just attach them to the prusiks and to my saddle? Thank you for the video. I thought it was really good.
So to be redundant if you want to back up the device on your tether you can clip into the pre attached friction hitches (check to make sure the are attached correctly). Here is where we get into the weeds. I personally don’t think that if your hanging on your tether not using it to climb, that a single hitch or device is adequate; it’s once we start climbing or lowering/rappelling that we need to be more aware of the system and adding redundancy. I know that’s a bit vague but it’s nuanced and challenging to explain via a comment.
@thefullaj4034 So I'm literally using 3-4 sticks with a three step aider on the first stick only. No climbing with the ropes at all. I'm just hanging around and waiting for that buck to roll through. Thank you very much for your insight. I feel much better and safer about my setup.
Great video man. Really good information. I just started using my Beal Jammy as an auto block. I have had it since I got my rappel he’s but never used it while hunting until here recently.
Good job, I’ve just started with the whole saddle thing. I had noticed exactly what your talking about, it’s been a while but I was trained in rope rescue.. Always have a backup knot.. Thanks for bringing this up!
Airborne Brother, thanks for this video...been saddle hunting for about 4 years now, began the SRT this season, need more practice but everything worked great...I do not use the Grigi for hanging I transition to the Tether so I know what you are talking about switching it up etc...Happy New Year!
Awesome brother, going to the SRT has got to lighten your load a bit; You were airborne you know the knees and well all the other parts of the body wear out. My personal objective is to get my set up as light at possible without compromising safety or comfort; my mission it to share that knowledge so we can get the longevity out of hunting we all want.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us new saddle hunters. I fell once. I don't recommend it. To me the best part about Saddle Hunting is never leaving the ground without a tether. Thanks again!
Hunting and climbing both have their inherent dangers, combining them adds more potential for something to go wrong, mitigating risk wherever possible is my go to.
I am personally not comfortable with mechanical devices. I use a longhorn/agile friction hitch that I learned from JRB Tree Climbing. I also run a redundant bridge that I use a munter friction hitch to repel with.
Hey there Paul, the hollow block only comes in one diameter size and 2 separate lengths. I prefer the 13.5” especially for a 9mm rope. Here is the link to the Sterling rope page for the hollow block. I think they might still be back order. sterlingrope.com/store/climb/cordage/sewn-cord/hollowblock2
@@thefullaj the link takes me to HollowBlock 2 products which are split tails. I suppose I could use a split tail too, but I don't see any sewn continuous loops.
Hey AJ, I’m a huge fan of Prusik tenders VS mechanical ascenders. Thoughts? Experience? Possible video on set up, use and redundancy? Appreciate your time man. Cheers. *8mm Oplux tether and lineman. Amsteel bridge. All Prusiks with tenders. Thether is backed up wit figure 8 on a bite and Lineman’s is backed up with figure 8 and locked into my bridge carabiner.
I personally prefer the mechanical ascenders for “ease of use”, most of my experience with both is outside of the saddle hunting context and more in hauling, crevasse rescue, and ascending so “speed and ease” were huge factors. I can most definitely do a video on this.
@@thefullaj I understand most definitely. Task specific, agreed. I appreciate your response and time it takes to put content out. Look forward to honing the craft. Hope all is well. Thanks again.
Let's not over complicate things. Take that blocking knot that you tied (which should be a figure 8 and not an overhand) and clip into that. Now your ascender can completely blow up and you still won't fall.
This is the best recommendation I’ve seen on any comment anywhere regarding this topic. What length is your tether to allow enough line for you to maneuver and also tie in with a figure 8? Also where are you tying in on your saddle? Thanks
@@benbecton0308 I use a ropeman 1 ascender. After getting in the tree and all settled, I take the slack end from the tether, tie it into a figure 8 and clip it into the carabiner into it. That carabiner now has the bridge, figure 8 knot from the tether, and the ropeman clipped in. Now if the rope man blows up the tether has that figure 8 that I'm clipped into. It also takes up the slack from the tether so it's not dangling around. I make my own tether. The rope is 15 feet before I start tying knots. I don't 1-stick. I carry sticks. I'm not repelling. This works in a saddle or a stand. Although when hunting from a stand I do not use an ascender. I prefer a friction hitch of some type, like a prusik knot.
That is the Sterling TRC (tactical rappel cord) 6.0mm. I have been testing out light weight materials for my saddle hunting business; I agree most aren’t comfortable with such a thin cord, for my experience I trust the system as the static load I am applying is far below the manufactures specs. I am in the final design of my saddle, projecting June I will have them for sale, the bridge line options will be that or an 8.0mm line.
@@thefullaj If you're gonna sell them make sure you think about shock loading and the maximum force you want the bridge to be able to handle with two knots in it
Thank you for this. I started saddle huntjng last year some. I only was using prusik knots. This year wanted to start to use rope man ascenders on the line and belt and tether for ease and quick adjustments. Then I saw the madrock and rappel options. What struck me right away was that these all come from climbing and arborists. Yet none of them use these alone without backup etc. which seemed potentially less safe. Thank you for showing some ideas and promoting a backup. Especially these single rope guys using a madrock alone to climb , hunt , and then descend.
Love this! Coming from the IT space, redundancy is a big thing, we always want to avoid a single point of failure so when I started saddle hunting this year, I applied that think to saddle hunting. I never climb/sit with a single point of failure and now you have given me more options for redundancy. I love "one is none and two is one!" Great video, glad I came across it, wish there were more videos like this. Thank you!
2 things...when you tied the autoblock it wasn't on camera can you redo that part so we can see? And two can you repel with the autoblock still on the main rope and keep it open? Or maybe a prusik loop attached the same way and keep it loose as you go down? I've always been taught to always back up the mechanical devices and descending with a GriGri+ or Madrock most don't have a backup repelling...
Shoot I think you already replied to another question I had about this and I deleted the wrong comment...could you please reply again I didn't realize I asked already and deleted the old comment before I read the whole reply....
Check out the video I did titles Saddle hunters how to finish cord, knots for tying a loop, and friction hitch’s. I give you a close up video of the autoblock as well as a few others. There isn’t a major problem with leaving it on, it will be a pain in the ass to manage the rappel. The best back up for assisted breaking devices is if you are losing control, let go of the lever on the device. Always maintain control of the break strand of the rope on rappel or tie a back up knot in it if you need to work.
Love this. I think the stopping knot is a great idea. Such a simple thing that I think should make more people comfortable tethred up. God forbid your ropeman goes slack for whatever reason and you slide to the end of your rope.
Most devices will have slippage like that when you are not holing the break strand. I was intentionally allowing it to slip to prove the point of ALL those devices are assisted breaking not hands free. I’ve not used the madrock before so I can’t speak directly to it but I’ve got 8 years of mountaineering and guiding experience and have seen more devices slip even when we thought they wouldn’t.
@@thefullaj Just for kicks and giggles one day I took my GriGri+ and my Safe Guard out for an experiment. Spent about an hour with each of them, taking off weight, slowly putting on weight, TRYING to get them to fail to lock. The GriGri+ only ever slipped maybe 1/2”, BUT I found that if the brake hand end of the cam somehow got raised, down ya go! The Safe Guard never failed to lock and only ever slipped @ 1/4”. As long as there is weight on either I found that both were good to go. Backups are always a good idea. On the “what if your bridge breaks”question, if you run the end of your tether through one of your lineman’s loops and connect it, you are redundant there, too, AND it keeps the tag end of your tether out of the way. Then on the way home I was hit and killed by a drunk driver. Go figure….. ;). Hunt safely, my Friends!
Best information for additional safety redundancies I've seen for saddle hunters. I'm new to saddle hunting and it's still unnerving trusting the system as a heavy guy. Thanks so much for these ideas!
Absolutely. Practice close to the ground to gain that trust the systems and remember the mantra “slow is smooth, smooth is fast”. I try to develop a system that I do every time I’m order so it becomes second nature.
@@thefullaj I'm not John, but rapelling with a figure 8 is pretty much how it all started, brother! That's the way we did it when I was a teen, long before all these mechanicals! I've upgraded to an ATC now, but keep a figure 8 in my pack as a backup.
hmmm the use of the autoblock friction hitch you showing has the same concept as the prusik-just added more wraps( i have used the prusik as my back-up for years NO ISSUE with slipping or anything) just have to get it tight on main line. Otherwise thanks for bring this to MANY Tubbers not having a backup in place.
Yes and know in response to the autoblock, it's similar to the prusik as in its a bidirectional friction hitch; the prusik wraps "into itself" around the rope whereas the autoblock wraps up or down the rope not going into itself.
Saddle hunting opened up repelling, This is All new to me. Which brings some equipment questions? I’m using 9 mm Sterling C-IV Canyon Rope. The part of the rope that’s used most often has become stiff in a relatively short period. It just makes it hard to slide through my Mad rock safeguarded. Is this normal? Is there a conditioner for repel ropes? Or something else I don’t know about this line?
Definitely more “normal” with theses poly/ high tensil materials based ropes; untying knots after every use is one way to “mitigate” it. As for wash blue water ropes and sterling I believe have rope washes, be aware however some of them have UV brighter in them which is counter to what we want.
Thank you! Some things those of us who are fairly new at rope climbing don’t think about, but need to! Before I began using a rope, I fell 10 to 12 feet off a hand made ladder, made from nearby trees, & the steps tied on with 12 gauge wire. While attempting to evacuate during an unexpected ice storm, my ladder glazed over, I slipped off my ladder on my way down from 16ft. I landed flat on my back, after my hand slipped off the step, began to fall back & grasping at a step failed, still falling back, I attempted to jump off the ladder to give myself a chance to land on my feet, only to have them also slip off the step, now falling horizontally & bouncing from the impact & knocking the wind out of me. I know I was extremely lucky to have walked away! Most can’t conceive just how hard one hits that ground in a fall!!!! Similar to getting hit by a horse or bull, a rodeo worker may relate to?
I like your iron sharpens iron shirt. I have been to a few of thier conferences. I like your advice on adding auto block of some sort. I use a petzel grigri, and have noticed if I get slack in my tension it releases. Great video
Kudos for u doing this video series. I do see several saddle hunter videos. So many use climbing sticks & have a tether with a Kong & a carabiner to their main bridge. If I were them I would keep my linemans on their too. The prusik backup is very important. Some people don't have the sewn eye prusik like u demonstrated so they go w/o. Please make a video showing them how to have redundancy by using hitchcords with a simple Hunters Bend to attach to. This way it makes them think about doing something simple that will save your life. I went away from using a English prusik on an Oplux tether by doing an eye to eye Michoacon hitch. However I have strong Sterling cord that I can cut to length to make my own hitch by just tieing a simple Hunters bend. Measure 5 times, cut once.
Good suggestion! I’ll do a video on that, however I will do it with a simple autoblock and a few different knots to connect cord in a loop. I don’t come from an arborist background, I was a mountain guide and my goal is to bring those quick safe techniques into this world. The Hunters bend and Michoacán hitch are a bit cumbersome in my opinion; a simple overhand (with proper length tail) and an autoblock are a bit more simple and quicker.
@@thefullaj I agree. Simpler is better. Only reason I brought it up the Michoacon is that u need to tie a a hitchcord or u need an eye to eye to use it. Many people r using the 8mm Oplux. When u put a 6mm English prusik on that Oplux that doesn't have 2 eyes it can really be really hard to break that 6mm prusik. I use a 5 wrap Michoacan on both my lanyard & my Oplux tether. It always catches & it breaks with just a couple of fingers. I would hate to see people ditch the double redundancy just cuz they have the wrong style hitchcord application. I am a bowhunter 1st & had to learn arborist work since my farm is very wooded & I have fencelines to protect. I never take my small saw off the clip of my saddle to cut with until I have 2 climbing lines hooked to 2 bridges. Just b4 I cut my lanyard is around a 🌳 & I have a choker on that lanyard to keep it locked into a position where my body can't go to the left ir right. I have watched the guy on the Back 40 along with Chris Bee saddle hunt with their tether attached to a what looks like a Kong with a carabiner hooked to their bridge. Can't tell if they do or don't have a backup or what might happen if they get excited or panic. That concerns me & the only reason I replied. Thank God that there r guys that just hunt from stands that will never use a saddle. Take care & thanks again.
That is the “industry standard” way of doing it at the moment, once I’m back from this trip (early to mid February) I’ll put a video out on how I climb with a gri gri or similar device instead of the rope man/duck.
I am new at becoming a mobile hunter with a saddle. My question is the size and type of rope "static" ...I have bought 12mm static rope and a Lixada rope grab.
This is a hard question to answer, if you are new to rope work in general a 10.0- 12.0mm rope is a great way to start. For saddle hunting a Static rope is my go to, the load any fall would create isn’t hard enough on the body to justify a dynamic rope (in my opinion) and it is easier to ascend a static vs dynamic.
Thank you. I would tend to agree however I remember when I first started climbing and didn’t know any better. The best we can do is try to help, a safer saddle hunting community is a better saddle hunting community.
How do you get the stopper knot undone if you are hanging by the rope with all your body wt. on it and when you have nothing to stand on to take the pressure off the main line? Any tricks on that?
Thank you AJ!! I love safety advice on any aspect, when off the ground. I’m returning to Saddle hunting, after a 15 break. I love all the new innovations for the bridges, tether, and lineman’s belt. I believe the mechanical devices, along with the carabiners are true game changers. You have introduced a excellent idea of the stop knot 🪢, and/or ty in to the lineman’s loop. I hope your video and ideas reach the “viral” level, for all us saddle hunters. After all, we should all stay healthy to enjoy our beloved sport. God bless you!
Thank you! Welcome back to it! I am a firm believer in paying it forward, I gained knowledge in my time as a mountain guide and I naturally think sharing it is doing better than holding it in. I would hate to see someone get hurt by something that is preventable.
so you think I should just use my madrock safe gaurd as long as I have it backed up instead of my ropeman at hunting height? im real dumb and transfer from my ropeman on my tether to my 40 foot of rope and madrock to repel down
I would highly recommend that. That safe guard is easy to adjust where as the ropeman not so much. Also takes away the need to transition. Play with it in the yard you'll see what I'm talking about. And yeah throw a stopper knot behind the safe guard while you're getting used to it.
Second that. Once I get back to putting videos out I will do one on my climbing method that shows just that. I am hoping the beginning of February to getting back to it.
Second that. Once I get back to putting videos out I will do one on my climbing method that shows just that. I am hoping the beginning of February to getting back to it.
Ropeman is quieter as the rope presses up against the carabiner, but is more limited on the rope size. Jon duck is noisy as the carabiner can rattle in the loop. I used hockey tape on my carabiner which helps.
I’m not sold on the noise issue that everyone keeps talking about. Though I only shot my first deer this year (a doe) I had too many missed opportunities on 3 mature bucks all within 30yds…(I don’t want to talk about it, lol) and my equipment is a gri gri (people complain it rattles) and the kong duck. Some of those missed chances were just as I hooked up to climb and right as I got to hunting height. ALL that being said, I’m thinking of flexseal as a long term alternative to tape.
Might want to look at that gear again. last time I checked a triple action locking binder is more than adequate but hey, I'm just a mountain guide so what to I Know? Hope you have good and safe season.
@@thefullaj I have no patience quit watching. You’re way more qualified about gear. I’m whitetail bow hunter so for me it’s redundancy and no metal. Tuff enuf getting close to bedding and with metal clang ya got no chance. Best to you and yours
@@doncook3584 Understand that, This was my first video attempt at helping people with redundancy in a system, definitely didn't silence my stuff for this. I learned that lesson the hard way, everything is silent now. Hope you have a great season.
Thank you for the compliment! I know ropes and keeping people safe. I am still learning the hunting part…you’ll see once I get the back logged content out. This season I shot my fist deer, 120lb (dressed) doe.
Great video! What would you recommend as the best backup for the Ropeman 1 Ascender? It looks like that simple bight knot will do the trick but I keep seeing videos talking about the prusik.
Thanks for the video and info. When using a ropeman or kong, could I just add a prusik above it and clip in to the carabiner? Use that to back up my device? How do I determine the proper rope to get to make the prusik? To size it properly and ensure I have the correct rated rope to make that? Thanks!
Honestly no, the benefit of adding the prusik where I did below the system is to give a small amount of redundancy if in lowering your hunting height with a rope man/duck (or similar device) you loose control and somehow slip with the device held open. The friction hitch would stop a fall to the end or your tether, which should have a knot tied in at the end anyway. After reviewing comments and the video I did not do the best job of explaining that so I will have a follow up video soon.
@@thefullaj I have stopper knots tied in to all my tethers. I thought maybe you didn’t trust mechanical device’s much hence the reason for a back up. I use mechanical on my linesman’s personally for speed of adjustment and Prussic type on my tether. A fall to the end of the stopper knot, is going to cause some issues anyway. I have feet to get to my stopper knot. I would be in a very awkward or bad position or I would be off the platform. Be looking forward to what you post up either way. Thanks
After reading about someone dying in the saddle this year, I'm curious your thoughts on the subject. Report didn't give much, other than he was upside down. Seems like if you were close to the trunk you should be able to flip yourself upright pretty easily as long as there was no slack in the system that got your arms tangled.
This should be the #1 saddle hunting video on the internet. I saw you reply to another RUclips video about a double eyed prusik above a ropeman1. Is this a viable option in your opinion? In that reply you also mentioned you wished everyone would go to a long rope. Would you recommend rappelling as the safest option for exiting a tree? What ropes do you recommend? Thanks for all the advice your giving.
depends if you want more bite or slip and the mantel of your two ropes i tend to shoot for 40 to 50 percent in diameter for bite (if they are rated for the load as well) if i want slip ill go up to about 70 percent. but you'll absolutely have to test the combination your planning to use at ground level.
Bkbowhunter1 the general rule of thumb is 3 diameters smaller, so for 9mm I would use 6mm. That being said I prefer the Sterling hollow block as it will bite on a variety of diameters.
Thanks so much for the information, I’m sorting through all of the information out there now and beginning to purchase some saddle hunting equipment. Your video has definitely helped me.
If I’m using a gri gri or other assisted belay device I do not use a back up; as letting go of the lever engages the cam and the angle of my hand on the break strand is the back up. If I need to stop and go hands free I tie and overhand on a bight on the brake strand.
Fantastic information. This is my first year one sticking. Also using the Madrock. I love the blocker knot idea. Also the ascender idea with 2 carabiners(I use the rope man 2). Please make a longer in detail upload if you have time. Thank you
Thank you!!!! About time someone talks about stopper knots for safety! I learned that as an arborist 25 years ago and was dumbfounded to see all these guys climbing with no backups!
Do you have a video on it? I’d be interesting to see. I’m visualizing being connected to one tether connected to rope man, then connecting rappel device to rappel line, then disconnecting rope man and repelling?
I’ve got plenty, I prefer an ascender that has less of an chance of damaging the rope if I fall catastrophically. Ropeman’s tend to desheath the rope if a fall happens with enough slack in the system. That being said, highly unlikely in our use.
Hey AJ. Another Army Vet here enjoying your videos. You mentioned an email address to message you directly, but I don't see it or another message link on your channel. Can you provide an email addy for a couple of questions about a climbing issue I'm pondering? Thank you and have a great day. Rick
A quick tip for locking into your ascension system, is to just tie a clove hitch to the carabiner the rope is already on, under the duck. All after you weigh the GRIGRI.
Are you suggesting a clove hitch on the brake strand of the gri gri? You could do that but I would still recommend a different carabiner not the one you’re device is loaded into. Don’t open the carabiner you’re hanging from while you’re hanging from it.
You can do that also. There are many ways to skin a deer, a simple overhand knot takes less time and I don’t have to carry an extra carabiner or hitch material.
Is that your primary was to ascend the tree? Do you u a foot aider with your srt setup? I’ve got a Kong and a safeguard, didn’t know I could set w that , thought I had to have a foot aider and one of those hand ascenders
I just asked the same question. I'm thinking the blocking knot would be best because it won't interfere with the ascend functionality as it would only "block" the rope from going thru the ropeman 1 (or 2) ascender. The prusik knot is what I keep seeing folks suggest but that has to be secured down toward your saddle, and I think that would interfere with the ability to ascend as the tether/top rope has be be pulled up. #notprofessionaladvice
As someone on backcountry rescue teams, I hope you are only joking. If not I hope you decide to self rescue and not rely on others when a quick knot could save you from hitting the ground.
Hey everyone, I know there have been a lot of comment's the past few months I haven't responded to. I'll be recording more content and answering those questions once winter pushes out of here.
This was the most useful version of how to backup a belay device because it was simple easy to see easy to understand and now I don’t have to go out and buy more rope I can use the tag end of my tether.
If you are using a madrock safeguard, they do not recommend that you put an autoblock below the device. If the device slips too far, it will keep the autoblock from grabbing or the autoblock can interfere with the safeguard grabbing. Maybe that is not an issue with other devices like the grigri. I would think that putting the autoblock above the rappel device, once you are at hunting height, would be the safer option as a backup. Or just tie a stopper on a bight as you also suggest.
Forgive me if I misspoke in the video, I would use a blocking knot so the tail end of the rope cannot go through the device. I only use the Autoblock or other fiction hitches ABOVE my assisted breaking device as a means to help me ascend.
Thank you for your video. I am looking into starting to saddle hunt. Most of the videos show the mechanical ascenders on the tender and some even on the lineman rope. But rarely to you see a backup on them. These are people who are actually doing "how to" videos. The reason I am looking at saddle hunting is it appears to be safer than tree stand hunting. You are attached to the tree before you even leave the ground. I want to learn the right way. Not the quick way. The important thing about hunting is not bagging the animal. Its going back home safe.
Thanks for sharing I’m just in to saddle hunting. Out all the videos that I have seen no one showed me how to be safe like that excellent sir.
Absolutely, we can be safe and it doesn’t take much.
Appreciate this man! Will be using a blocking knot today and going forward with my safeguard! Seems like it’s definitely worth the 5 seconds it takes to tie. Thanks
Outstanding!!! Critical info. 1 is none, 2 is 1. Great words and truth!
Most excellent demonstration.
solid advice folks,
this man knows his stuff.
Great info and I follow the same rule - one is none, two is one, etc..., even when tying things off in my truck. People think it’s overkill but I don’t lose things. At 55 I tend to forget things as well and having back up systems is required. Thanks
I use my tether rope to tie a prusic over my bridge rope, works well and super easy
Found this video very helpful. I use the Madrock and never see anyone show a safety Blocking Knot. I will implodent this. Also, what carabiner is that you have on your bridge?
It is the DMM Ceros
where and what is your bridge backup? if it brakes
Good question, if the bridge breaks on any saddle while hunting it is a total failure and manufacture defect (in my case I’m at fault as I’m prototyping my product), same with a rock climbing harness; climbing is inherently dangerous. For those that like the lineman’s belt you can clip that in with the bridge line, or you could tie a small bite knot on the tail end of your tether/ rope and clip into one of the bridge line attachment points; that would at a level of redundancy. Great question!
Man thank you!!
Awesome public service
Good karma for sure
Thank you! I’m glad I can be helpful; maybe this year I’ll get my first buck as karma. Lol
This video summed up what I've researched for 3 weeks. Great info. How can you dress up the block knot? Seems like it may get in the way. 2:49
I intentionally pulled a large bite knot for demonstration. Pull less of a bite and it’s not in the way.
Would putting the auto block above the madrock and attaching it to the same caribeaner as the madrock work?
Doubtful, but as I may or may not have stated I 1 don’t have the most experience with the safeguard and 2 d not think they are appropriate for our use. I’ll try to make another video on that topic when time allows between work, hunting and life.
Could you do that SRT climb technique with 2 ropemans instead of a grigri?
Yeah they will. I opt for the gri gri because I use my rappel line from the beginning and it minimizes the transition of ascending device to descending device, which is another point of potential mishaps and falling from the tree.
Is that 8mm rope with a GriGri? Any slipping issues? I know grigri says rated for 8.5-11mm
That is the Sterling C-IV canyon rope 9.0mm
I'm brand new with saddle hunting but have climbed trees for a few years so I'm comfortable in a tree but it's a different animal in some aspects, the biggest one is I wasn't climbing a tree at 4am in the dark lol. If I could add any advise it would be get familiar with your gear and practice over and over and trust your gear but never get complacent! That stopper knot by the mechanical device is an excellent idea. Im a fan of a Kong Duck on a Lineman rope but a friction hitch for a tether. Also going to add...inspect your equipment after each climb, Im sure a razor sharp broadhead would make short work cutting through a rope.
All good stuff there. Build that muscle memory; I do everything the same way, I put everything in the same place so when it’s 4am and I’m tired or it’s 6pm and I’m tired and cold I know my up and down will be done correctly.
Thers a safer way to climb in the dark. Check it out. ruclips.net/video/gwRQDcez63Y/видео.html
Manufacturer suggest not backing up this device or any other belay device, especially when using it in a non ground belaying way. The reasoning apparently is the backup could get jammed in the device and actually hold the cam open and it’ll free slide.
Can you provide me the link to Petzl NA’s website where you found that information? As a mountain and climbing guide going “hands free” is a must in many different situations, a quick blocking not on the tail end blocks the rope from going through the device and the individual attached from sliding to the ground.
@@thefullaj i got that info from a phone call to them, and many other people have also mentioned it on their videos.
I don't see how a rope can pass thru a gri gri with knot in it. Even it was free to let the line thru.
I'm new to saddle hunting this year. I bought the CRUZR kit with 8mm rope upgrades. I use the ropeman/duck on my tether and my lineman belt. Both already have prusik knots installed. What is the best way to back both up? I also have 2 extra carabiners available. Can i just attach them to the prusiks and to my saddle? Thank you for the video. I thought it was really good.
So to be redundant if you want to back up the device on your tether you can clip into the pre attached friction hitches (check to make sure the are attached correctly). Here is where we get into the weeds. I personally don’t think that if your hanging on your tether not using it to climb, that a single hitch or device is adequate; it’s once we start climbing or lowering/rappelling that we need to be more aware of the system and adding redundancy. I know that’s a bit vague but it’s nuanced and challenging to explain via a comment.
@thefullaj4034 So I'm literally using 3-4 sticks with a three step aider on the first stick only. No climbing with the ropes at all. I'm just hanging around and waiting for that buck to roll through. Thank you very much for your insight. I feel much better and safer about my setup.
Good suggestions - thank you. I also use my Beal Jammy (autoblock) on the rappel back down too as a backup to the Madrock Safeguard.
Lol I just asked a guy what a Beal Jammy was.
Great video man. Really good information. I just started using my Beal Jammy as an auto block. I have had it since I got my rappel he’s but never used it while hunting until here recently.
What's a Beel Jammy?
Good job, I’ve just started with the whole saddle thing. I had noticed exactly what your talking about, it’s been a while but I was trained in rope rescue.. Always have a backup knot.. Thanks for bringing this up!
Yes we need guides like him and trained personal like you giving advice. would you give yours on this? ruclips.net/video/gwRQDcez63Y/видео.html
never used a blocker knot after my kong on, will now. thanks
Airborne Brother, thanks for this video...been saddle hunting for about 4 years now, began the SRT this season, need more practice but everything worked great...I do not use the Grigi for hanging I transition to the Tether so I know what you are talking about switching it up etc...Happy New Year!
Awesome brother, going to the SRT has got to lighten your load a bit; You were airborne you know the knees and well all the other parts of the body wear out. My personal objective is to get my set up as light at possible without compromising safety or comfort; my mission it to share that knowledge so we can get the longevity out of hunting we all want.
Great video! Glad to see someone emphasize safety with a hunting saddle.
Yes, safety is job 1
How do I get in touch with you? I have some questions
Shoot me a message on Instagram @the_full_aj I’m happy to help.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us new saddle hunters. I fell once. I don't recommend it. To me the best part about Saddle Hunting is never leaving the ground without a tether. Thanks again!
Hunting and climbing both have their inherent dangers, combining them adds more potential for something to go wrong, mitigating risk wherever possible is my go to.
You fell once? How, if you don't mind? I agree about staying tethered while climbing. See how I do it, ruclips.net/video/gwRQDcez63Y/видео.html
Good video. 👍 for order of man brother.
Thanks brother!
I am personally not comfortable with mechanical devices. I use a longhorn/agile friction hitch that I learned from JRB Tree Climbing. I also run a redundant bridge that I use a munter friction hitch to repel with.
What is Hollow Block? Is it a type of rope? Where do you get your Hollow Block loops?
What size would I need to make an Auto Block on 9mm rope?
Hey there Paul, the hollow block only comes in one diameter size and 2 separate lengths. I prefer the 13.5” especially for a 9mm rope. Here is the link to the Sterling rope page for the hollow block. I think they might still be back order. sterlingrope.com/store/climb/cordage/sewn-cord/hollowblock2
@@thefullaj the link takes me to HollowBlock 2 products which are split tails. I suppose I could use a split tail too, but I don't see any sewn continuous loops.
Hey AJ, I’m a huge fan of Prusik tenders VS mechanical ascenders. Thoughts? Experience? Possible video on set up, use and redundancy? Appreciate your time man. Cheers.
*8mm Oplux tether and lineman. Amsteel bridge. All Prusiks with tenders. Thether is backed up wit figure 8 on a bite and Lineman’s is backed up with figure 8 and locked into my bridge carabiner.
I personally prefer the mechanical ascenders for “ease of use”, most of my experience with both is outside of the saddle hunting context and more in hauling, crevasse rescue, and ascending so “speed and ease” were huge factors. I can most definitely do a video on this.
@@thefullaj I understand most definitely. Task specific, agreed. I appreciate your response and time it takes to put content out. Look forward to honing the craft. Hope all is well. Thanks again.
Bravo
Let's not over complicate things. Take that blocking knot that you tied (which should be a figure 8 and not an overhand) and clip into that. Now your ascender can completely blow up and you still won't fall.
This is the best recommendation I’ve seen on any comment anywhere regarding this topic. What length is your tether to allow enough line for you to maneuver and also tie in with a figure 8? Also where are you tying in on your saddle? Thanks
@@benbecton0308 I use a ropeman 1 ascender. After getting in the tree and all settled, I take the slack end from the tether, tie it into a figure 8 and clip it into the carabiner into it. That carabiner now has the bridge, figure 8 knot from the tether, and the ropeman clipped in. Now if the rope man blows up the tether has that figure 8 that I'm clipped into. It also takes up the slack from the tether so it's not dangling around. I make my own tether. The rope is 15 feet before I start tying knots. I don't 1-stick. I carry sticks. I'm not repelling.
This works in a saddle or a stand. Although when hunting from a stand I do not use an ascender. I prefer a friction hitch of some type, like a prusik knot.
Great video! Thank you. I've been pondering safety with my saddle hunting set up. This answered some questions for me.
Glad I could help.
what rope are you using for a bridge? Looks a bit thin for my taste.
That is the Sterling TRC (tactical rappel cord) 6.0mm. I have been testing out light weight materials for my saddle hunting business; I agree most aren’t comfortable with such a thin cord, for my experience I trust the system as the static load I am applying is far below the manufactures specs. I am in the final design of my saddle, projecting June I will have them for sale, the bridge line options will be that or an 8.0mm line.
@@thefullaj If you're gonna sell them make sure you think about shock loading and the maximum force you want the bridge to be able to handle with two knots in it
Be more mindful of your camera framing. Your auto block and friction hitches were never on camera.
I went to your channel to see how you framed your camera but I didn't see any videos on your channel... odd. 🧐
@@usernamehere6061 haha, he needs to insert foot at this time
You are right. I’m new to this, learning every time. Thank you for the feedback.
Love that blocking knot! First season saddle hunting and I'm totally gonna use it. TY!
Thank you for this. I started saddle huntjng last year some. I only was using prusik knots. This year wanted to start to use rope man ascenders on the line and belt and tether for ease and quick adjustments. Then I saw the madrock and rappel options. What struck me right away was that these all come from climbing and arborists. Yet none of them use these alone without backup etc. which seemed potentially less safe. Thank you for showing some ideas and promoting a backup. Especially these single rope guys using a madrock alone to climb , hunt , and then descend.
Love this! Coming from the IT space, redundancy is a big thing, we always want to avoid a single point of failure so when I started saddle hunting this year, I applied that think to saddle hunting. I never climb/sit with a single point of failure and now you have given me more options for redundancy. I love "one is none and two is one!" Great video, glad I came across it, wish there were more videos like this. Thank you!
Thank you for the kind words, once I’m done taking some personal time I will be putting more content out like this.
Here's you a safe way to saddle hunt ruclips.net/video/gwRQDcez63Y/видео.html
2 things...when you tied the autoblock it wasn't on camera can you redo that part so we can see? And two can you repel with the autoblock still on the main rope and keep it open? Or maybe a prusik loop attached the same way and keep it loose as you go down? I've always been taught to always back up the mechanical devices and descending with a GriGri+ or Madrock most don't have a backup repelling...
Shoot I think you already replied to another question I had about this and I deleted the wrong comment...could you please reply again I didn't realize I asked already and deleted the old comment before I read the whole reply....
Check out the video I did titles Saddle hunters how to finish cord, knots for tying a loop, and friction hitch’s. I give you a close up video of the autoblock as well as a few others. There isn’t a major problem with leaving it on, it will be a pain in the ass to manage the rappel. The best back up for assisted breaking devices is if you are losing control, let go of the lever on the device. Always maintain control of the break strand of the rope on rappel or tie a back up knot in it if you need to work.
Ok so the grigri and madrock aren't prone to any failures it sounds like just use the blocking knot once at hunting height...thanks for the reply!
Great stuff
Love this. I think the stopping knot is a great idea. Such a simple thing that I think should make more people comfortable tethred up. God forbid your ropeman goes slack for whatever reason and you slide to the end of your rope.
Eliminate a slack line like this ruclips.net/video/gwRQDcez63Y/видео.html
My madrock has never slipped on the rope like that. Id have to send that grigri packing!
Most devices will have slippage like that when you are not holing the break strand. I was intentionally allowing it to slip to prove the point of ALL those devices are assisted breaking not hands free. I’ve not used the madrock before so I can’t speak directly to it but I’ve got 8 years of mountaineering and guiding experience and have seen more devices slip even when we thought they wouldn’t.
@@thefullaj Just for kicks and giggles one day I took my GriGri+ and my Safe Guard out for an experiment. Spent about an hour with each of them, taking off weight, slowly putting on weight, TRYING to get them to fail to lock. The GriGri+ only ever slipped maybe 1/2”, BUT I found that if the brake hand end of the cam somehow got raised, down ya go! The Safe Guard never failed to lock and only ever slipped @ 1/4”. As long as there is weight on either I found that both were good to go.
Backups are always a good idea. On the “what if your bridge breaks”question, if you run the end of your tether through one of your lineman’s loops and connect it, you are redundant there, too, AND it keeps the tag end of your tether out of the way.
Then on the way home I was hit and killed by a drunk driver. Go figure….. ;). Hunt safely, my Friends!
Best information for additional safety redundancies I've seen for saddle hunters. I'm new to saddle hunting and it's still unnerving trusting the system as a heavy guy. Thanks so much for these ideas!
Absolutely. Practice close to the ground to gain that trust the systems and remember the mantra “slow is smooth, smooth is fast”. I try to develop a system that I do every time I’m order so it becomes second nature.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! Excellent suggestion with great intentions!
Great video. I only run prusiks with a figure 8 that I clip back into my caribiner.
How do you descend from hunting height?
@@thefullaj I'm not John, but rapelling with a figure 8 is pretty much how it all started, brother! That's the way we did it when I was a teen, long before all these mechanicals! I've upgraded to an ATC now, but keep a figure 8 in my pack as a backup.
Put a figure 8 in the end of your tether and put it on your bridge carabiner.
Some of the best info i have seen yet and i really love the T-shirt. My church hosts those classes. Thanks Brother
hmmm the use of the autoblock friction hitch you showing has the same concept as the prusik-just added more wraps( i have used the prusik as my back-up for years NO ISSUE with slipping or anything) just have to get it tight on main line. Otherwise thanks for bring this to MANY Tubbers not having a backup in place.
Yes and know in response to the autoblock, it's similar to the prusik as in its a bidirectional friction hitch; the prusik wraps "into itself" around the rope whereas the autoblock wraps up or down the rope not going into itself.
Can you also use a rolling clove hitch on your brake line a stopper
Really great video!
Saddle hunting opened up repelling, This is All new to me. Which brings some equipment questions?
I’m using 9 mm Sterling C-IV Canyon Rope.
The part of the rope that’s used most often has become stiff in a relatively short period. It just makes it hard to slide through my Mad rock safeguarded. Is this normal? Is there a conditioner for repel ropes? Or something else I don’t know about this line?
Definitely more “normal” with theses poly/ high tensil materials based ropes; untying knots after every use is one way to “mitigate” it. As for wash blue water ropes and sterling I believe have rope washes, be aware however some of them have UV brighter in them which is counter to what we want.
Thank you! Some things those of us who are fairly new at rope climbing don’t think about, but need to! Before I began using a rope, I fell 10 to 12 feet off a hand made ladder, made from nearby trees, & the steps tied on with 12 gauge wire. While attempting to evacuate during an unexpected ice storm, my ladder glazed over, I slipped off my ladder on my way down from 16ft.
I landed flat on my back, after my hand slipped off the step, began to fall back & grasping at a step failed, still falling back, I attempted to jump off the ladder to give myself a chance to land on my feet, only to have them also slip off the step, now falling horizontally & bouncing from the impact & knocking the wind out of me. I know I was extremely lucky to have walked away!
Most can’t conceive just how hard one hits that ground in a fall!!!! Similar to getting hit by a horse or bull, a rodeo worker may relate to?
Ouch, extremely lucky indeed 10-12 feet can break stuff. Glad the video was helpful.
I like your iron sharpens iron shirt. I have been to a few of thier conferences. I like your advice on adding auto block of some sort. I use a petzel grigri, and have noticed if I get slack in my tension it releases. Great video
I appreciate it! The Iron Council is an amazing group of men to be a part of.
Thank you. Very informative
Kudos for u doing this video series. I do see several saddle hunter videos. So many use climbing sticks & have a tether with a Kong & a carabiner to their main bridge. If I were them I would keep my linemans on their too. The prusik backup is very important. Some people don't have the sewn eye prusik like u demonstrated so they go w/o. Please make a video showing them how to have redundancy by using hitchcords with a simple Hunters Bend to attach to. This way it makes them think about doing something simple that will save your life. I went away from using a English prusik on an Oplux tether by doing an eye to eye Michoacon hitch. However I have strong Sterling cord that I can cut to length to make my own hitch by just tieing a simple Hunters bend. Measure 5 times, cut once.
Good suggestion! I’ll do a video on that, however I will do it with a simple autoblock and a few different knots to connect cord in a loop. I don’t come from an arborist background, I was a mountain guide and my goal is to bring those quick safe techniques into this world. The Hunters bend and Michoacán hitch are a bit cumbersome in my opinion; a simple overhand (with proper length tail) and an autoblock are a bit more simple and quicker.
@@thefullaj I agree. Simpler is better. Only reason I brought it up the Michoacon is that u need to tie a a hitchcord or u need an eye to eye to use it. Many people r using the 8mm Oplux. When u put a 6mm English prusik on that Oplux that doesn't have 2 eyes it can really be really hard to break that 6mm prusik. I use a 5 wrap Michoacan on both my lanyard & my Oplux tether. It always catches & it breaks with just a couple of fingers. I would hate to see people ditch the double redundancy just cuz they have the wrong style hitchcord application. I am a bowhunter 1st & had to learn arborist work since my farm is very wooded & I have fencelines to protect. I never take my small saw off the clip of my saddle to cut with until I have 2 climbing lines hooked to 2 bridges. Just b4 I cut my lanyard is around a 🌳 & I have a choker on that lanyard to keep it locked into a position where my body can't go to the left ir right.
I have watched the guy on the Back 40 along with Chris Bee saddle hunt with their tether attached to a what looks like a Kong with a carabiner hooked to their bridge. Can't tell if they do or don't have a backup or what might happen if they get excited or panic. That concerns me & the only reason I replied. Thank God that there r guys that just hunt from stands that will never use a saddle. Take care & thanks again.
I'm fairly new at saddle hunting. I use a Kong on tether and put my amsteel bridge inside the carabiner. Recommendations? Not sure what your email is?
That is the “industry standard” way of doing it at the moment, once I’m back from this trip (early to mid February) I’ll put a video out on how I climb with a gri gri or similar device instead of the rope man/duck.
I would say keep a tight line always. Here's how you can do that ruclips.net/video/gwRQDcez63Y/видео.html
I am new at becoming a mobile hunter with a saddle. My question is the size and type of rope "static" ...I have bought 12mm static rope and a Lixada rope grab.
This is a hard question to answer, if you are new to rope work in general a 10.0- 12.0mm rope is a great way to start. For saddle hunting a Static rope is my go to, the load any fall would create isn’t hard enough on the body to justify a dynamic rope (in my opinion) and it is easier to ascend a static vs dynamic.
If your new to climbing, you should see this for sure. ruclips.net/video/gwRQDcez63Y/видео.html
This is a really good video. This should be common sense for most people.
Thank you. I would tend to agree however I remember when I first started climbing and didn’t know any better. The best we can do is try to help, a safer saddle hunting community is a better saddle hunting community.
You're absolutely right. Help as much as possible and I tell people to practice Practice Practice!
LOL common sense.
Very interested to see your bridge setup.
Stay tuned, I’ll be slowly showing bits of my saddle, mainly the bridge, with a product debut spring and on the market by June…
How do you get the stopper knot undone if you are hanging by the rope with all your body wt. on it and when you have nothing to stand on to take the pressure off the main line? Any tricks on that?
If it’s tight against the device you have to “ascend” the rope enough to give slack (3-4”) to then untie the knot.
@@thefullaj Thanks so much great tip!
So if you are using a prusik knot would you still back it up and what would be your preferred method for that
Are you asking if you are hooked into your tether directly with a Prusik hitch? You can if you want, form my experience it is not necessary however.
Thank you AJ!! I love safety advice on any aspect, when off the ground. I’m returning to Saddle hunting, after a 15 break. I love all the new innovations for the bridges, tether, and lineman’s belt. I believe the mechanical devices, along with the carabiners are true game changers. You have introduced a excellent idea of the stop knot 🪢, and/or ty in to the lineman’s loop. I hope your video and ideas reach the “viral” level, for all us saddle hunters.
After all, we should all stay healthy to enjoy our beloved sport. God bless you!
Thank you! Welcome back to it! I am a firm believer in paying it forward, I gained knowledge in my time as a mountain guide and I naturally think sharing it is doing better than holding it in. I would hate to see someone get hurt by something that is preventable.
Yes, we can't have enough safety info.
so you think I should just use my madrock safe gaurd as long as I have it backed up instead of my ropeman at hunting height? im real dumb and transfer from my ropeman on my tether to my 40 foot of rope and madrock to repel down
I would highly recommend that. That safe guard is easy to adjust where as the ropeman not so much. Also takes away the need to transition. Play with it in the yard you'll see what I'm talking about. And yeah throw a stopper knot behind the safe guard while you're getting used to it.
Second that. Once I get back to putting videos out I will do one on my climbing method that shows just that. I am hoping the beginning of February to getting back to it.
Second that. Once I get back to putting videos out I will do one on my climbing method that shows just that. I am hoping the beginning of February to getting back to it.
Great video! Need to work on your video framing. Your autoblock scenes were almost completely out of the frames.
kong duck or ropemn 1? which is better for hunting?
Ropeman is quieter as the rope presses up against the carabiner, but is more limited on the rope size. Jon duck is noisy as the carabiner can rattle in the loop. I used hockey tape on my carabiner which helps.
I’m not sold on the noise issue that everyone keeps talking about. Though I only shot my first deer this year (a doe) I had too many missed opportunities on 3 mature bucks all within 30yds…(I don’t want to talk about it, lol) and my equipment is a gri gri (people complain it rattles) and the kong duck. Some of those missed chances were just as I hooked up to climb and right as I got to hunting height. ALL that being said, I’m thinking of flexseal as a long term alternative to tape.
I know with madrock they say not to use a backup because it can get in the mechanism. Does the GriGri says the same?
Great video AJ. Interesting content on a technical safety topic.
Thank you Jonathon. My goal is to help this community hunt a little safer.
Using simple biner as opposed to dual action AND no backup bridge then giving safety advice. Opening scene killed it for me
Might want to look at that gear again. last time I checked a triple action locking binder is more than adequate but hey, I'm just a mountain guide so what to I Know? Hope you have good and safe season.
@@thefullaj I have no patience quit watching. You’re way more qualified about gear. I’m whitetail bow hunter so for me it’s redundancy and no metal. Tuff enuf getting close to bedding and with metal clang ya got no chance. Best to you and yours
@@doncook3584 Understand that, This was my first video attempt at helping people with redundancy in a system, definitely didn't silence my stuff for this. I learned that lesson the hard way, everything is silent now. Hope you have a great season.
Most knowledgeable saddle hunter i've ever seen.
Thank you for the compliment! I know ropes and keeping people safe. I am still learning the hunting part…you’ll see once I get the back logged content out. This season I shot my fist deer, 120lb (dressed) doe.
@@thefullaj same! I'm a tree climber, interested in saddle hunting. You clearly come from a different background than the other vids I've seen.
Great video! What would you recommend as the best backup for the Ropeman 1 Ascender? It looks like that simple bight knot will do the trick but I keep seeing videos talking about the prusik.
Thanks for the video and info. When using a ropeman or kong, could I just add a prusik above it and clip in to the carabiner? Use that to back up my device?
How do I determine the proper rope to get to make the prusik? To size it properly and ensure I have the correct rated rope to make that? Thanks!
You're a lot better off with the simple stopper knot. Adding a prusik to the system is not a great idea.
Honestly no, the benefit of adding the prusik where I did below the system is to give a small amount of redundancy if in lowering your hunting height with a rope man/duck (or similar device) you loose control and somehow slip with the device held open. The friction hitch would stop a fall to the end or your tether, which should have a knot tied in at the end anyway. After reviewing comments and the video I did not do the best job of explaining that so I will have a follow up video soon.
@@thefullaj I have stopper knots tied in to all my tethers. I thought maybe you didn’t trust mechanical device’s much hence the reason for a back up.
I use mechanical on my linesman’s personally for speed of adjustment and Prussic type on my tether.
A fall to the end of the stopper knot, is going to cause some issues anyway. I have feet to get to my stopper knot. I would be in a very awkward or bad position or I would be off the platform.
Be looking forward to what you post up either way. Thanks
After reading about someone dying in the saddle this year, I'm curious your thoughts on the subject. Report didn't give much, other than he was upside down. Seems like if you were close to the trunk you should be able to flip yourself upright pretty easily as long as there was no slack in the system that got your arms tangled.
This should be the #1 saddle hunting video on the internet. I saw you reply to another RUclips video about a double eyed prusik above a ropeman1. Is this a viable option in your opinion? In that reply you also mentioned you wished everyone would go to a long rope. Would you recommend rappelling as the safest option for exiting a tree? What ropes do you recommend? Thanks for all the advice your giving.
I use 9mm rope when size rope would work for a auto block
depends if you want more bite or slip and the mantel of your two ropes i tend to shoot for 40 to 50 percent in diameter for bite (if they are rated for the load as well) if i want slip ill go up to about 70 percent. but you'll absolutely have to test the combination your planning to use at ground level.
Bkbowhunter1 the general rule of thumb is 3 diameters smaller, so for 9mm I would use 6mm. That being said I prefer the Sterling hollow block as it will bite on a variety of diameters.
Thanks so much for the information, I’m sorting through all of the information out there now and beginning to purchase some saddle hunting equipment. Your video has definitely helped me.
so how do you prefer to rappel with the auto block....
If I’m using a gri gri or other assisted belay device I do not use a back up; as letting go of the lever engages the cam and the angle of my hand on the break strand is the back up. If I need to stop and go hands free I tie and overhand on a bight on the brake strand.
Is it safe to use a prusik hitch on your saddle lineman's loop as your ascending down the tree just in case the belay device fails?
Fantastic information. This is my first year one sticking. Also using the Madrock. I love the blocker knot idea. Also the ascender idea with 2 carabiners(I use the rope man 2). Please make a longer in detail upload if you have time. Thank you
Thank you!!!! About time someone talks about stopper knots for safety! I learned that as an arborist 25 years ago and was dumbfounded to see all these guys climbing with no backups!
As a former winter, mountaineer and new to the saddle hunting game, I agree with this 1000%
My two tether system has no danger due to transitions.
Do you have a video on it? I’d be interesting to see. I’m visualizing being connected to one tether connected to rope man, then connecting rappel device to rappel line, then disconnecting rope man and repelling?
@@thefullaj this video shows the hookup and climb. I have another that shows the descent.
Dude, get a rope man ascender. Does not come loose
I’ve got plenty, I prefer an ascender that has less of an chance of damaging the rope if I fall catastrophically. Ropeman’s tend to desheath the rope if a fall happens with enough slack in the system. That being said, highly unlikely in our use.
Hey AJ. Another Army Vet here enjoying your videos. You mentioned an email address to message you directly, but I don't see it or another message link on your channel. Can you provide an email addy for a couple of questions about a climbing issue I'm pondering? Thank you and have a great day. Rick
Info@huntlyte.com
What’s a good way to back up when using a figure 8?
you might try prussiks, auto-blocks, klemheists just depends on what your trying to do and the size of the ropes you are working with.
Just use a prusik and get rid of the metal
I hate to use this answer; it depends, I’m not sure exactly how you are using the figure 8.
A quick tip for locking into your ascension system, is to just tie a clove hitch to the carabiner the rope is already on, under the duck. All after you weigh the GRIGRI.
Are you suggesting a clove hitch on the brake strand of the gri gri? You could do that but I would still recommend a different carabiner not the one you’re device is loaded into. Don’t open the carabiner you’re hanging from while you’re hanging from it.
Great video. Any experience with Edelrid Giga Jul for rappel? Looking at options with Madrock scarcity.
Get a gri gri I have used the jul and giga jul, I prefer the mammut alpine smart over those as they work the same, I’m just use to the smart
could you show the auto bock set up please. It was out of frame.
Great video! Lots of good information! We’ll done
Your points are well taken! Thank you!
Iron sharpens iron. Thanks for the video.
Why not put a friction hitch above the device and clip the carabiner into that as a backup?
You can do that also. There are many ways to skin a deer, a simple overhand knot takes less time and I don’t have to carry an extra carabiner or hitch material.
Thanks for showing
Is that your primary was to ascend the tree? Do you u a foot aider with your srt setup? I’ve got a Kong and a safeguard, didn’t know I could set w that , thought I had to have a foot aider and one of those hand ascenders
I’ll be getting a video out early to mid February as to how I’ve been climbing.
I’ll be getting a video out early to mid February as to how I’ve been climbing.
Can you use the blocking knot on a line men one ascender as a stopper ?
I just asked the same question. I'm thinking the blocking knot would be best because it won't interfere with the ascend functionality as it would only "block" the rope from going thru the ropeman 1 (or 2) ascender. The prusik knot is what I keep seeing folks suggest but that has to be secured down toward your saddle, and I think that would interfere with the ability to ascend as the tether/top rope has be be pulled up. #notprofessionaladvice
Na makes it more exciting not to be backed up. Gives the deer a chance.
As someone on backcountry rescue teams, I hope you are only joking. If not I hope you decide to self rescue and not rely on others when a quick knot could save you from hitting the ground.
@@thefullaj ‘‘twas a joke.
I couldn't see how the autolock was done, out of frame