Been looking at Aces for a while. Just got my killshot yesterday. Your videos will make this go a little more smooth. I'm adding a fitech mini sump for delivery.
@@DrivingForwardBuilds As with anything, there a some negative comments in some of the discussions that I'm having.. All people that don't know anything about efi or had a bad experience with another company, Yada Yada. Asking someone who has installed and dealt with this system.. Any regrets? Mine is going on a super mild 318 driver.
@@danarcher6356 as the installer I don’t have any regrets. I felt it was well set up and included what was needed. From the tuning setup I had some trouble. My own problem because I’m not a tuner so there was steep learning curve and not much info in the manuals. I think being such a new company/product there will be growing pains. Lots of updates and changes/revisions to the products that could leave early adopters with some regrets. My buddy the owner has the car now and is getting it dialed in slowly. From his perspective he says it feels more responsive, slightly more powerful and overall he’s happy. He really likes that with the flip of a “switch” in the hand held he can make changes drive it and see a difference. Best of luck on your install.
Another great video and there's nothing better than an Instant First Start huh 😜 I'd add Fuel Pressure data as soon as it's available because (I'm a Dataholic, lol) if your buddy ever has any kind of running issues later down the road having fuel pressure data will tell you if/when you have a (pre injectors) fuel delivery issue. It hasn't happened often but I've had a few tunes that had fuel pressure issues and it's slightly easier to watch/see data while driving than the gauge that's under the hood🙃 And since you said he doesn't drive it much I'd run Sta-bil 360 in the gas to help keep the fuel system clean and protected. With crazy high humidity here in FL. we usually run Sta-Bil Marine. The marine cost a lot more but it's cheap insurance...
That’s great advise. We were thinking oil pressure but already have an analog gauge. The fuel pressure would be a good diagnostic for sure. I also didn’t know about the Sta-bil Marine, I’ll let him know. Thanks!
Originally we connected it to the original distributor/coil 12v ignition circuit. But that was not working well and had an intermittent short. So as a temporary measure until the fuse box can be upgraded we install an inline fuse and switch directly off the battery. Kind of like a kill switch.
Hey reaching out this is the most in depth videos I’ve found on the system. Just bought one but appear to be missing some of the things in the kit is there a way to reach out to you for a few questions?
@@DrivingForwardBuilds but it’s still hooked to the throttle body? I had a shop do my instal, for various reasons. They got rid of the PCV entirely and hooked the break booster to the throttle body. Would you agree that I need to install a PCV, run it into the aces unit, and hook my break booster to the intake manifold?
@@TheRamRanch Really you can go either way. During this install, I discussed removing the PCV with the owner and he chose to keep it in place. These older engines can breath to atmosphere (through a filter cap). It just depends on how you want it run, and the engine build.
@@DrivingForwardBuilds mine didn’t smoke before the fuel injection kit was installed. Now it’s smoking really bad out both breathers. Engine was recently rebuilt
@@TheRamRanch If it had the pcv hooked up previously all of the "smoke" would have been pulled through the intake under vacuum. Assuming no running issues causing excess smoke/vapor, reconnecting the PCV will eliminate that.
Ugh. I just replaced most of the coming system on an ls powered silverado and the whole thing was full of rust, scale, and decade old dexcool garbage. 100% plugged heater hoses etc so when you pulled that plug out of the crossover in the intake it hurt my soul.
The Killshot system does not. However in the previous video I installed the Aces fuel Delivery kit and that does have a regulator in line on the return side.
Could a starter technically suck too much juice from the battery on start up that it could interrupt the ECU from working correctly? Mine will sometimes lose power while cranking and if it turns over, it doesn't stay running long, maybe 5-10 seconds if I'm lucky. Idk if it's original but it sure looks original styled ('66 mustang w/ 289).
It's possible that the starter is drawing the voltage down while cranking. But if that's the case then the battery is weak. It's important to know that the ignition signal is interrupted in factory form on these cars when cranking. We couldn't see the interruption on my multimeter. Even a momentary interruption is bad for an ECU. We tried using the factory coil power which appears to be continuous but in fact, wasn't. Our screen would turn off when cranking, indicating a break in the power. I decided to test my theory and hard-wired the ECU directly to the battery and when cranking it did not shut off. Being that this car needs some wiring work I added a temporary hard-wired switch to power the ECU and from then moving forward it did not shut off when cranking.
So I went ahead and wired the key-on to a separate battery directly but while it doesn't lose power now, I feel like I'm not getting enough fuel while cranking and am feeling like maybe the pump isn't getting enough power while cranking either. I'm going to be replacing the starter with a newer one with better torque this weekend, hopefully it helps with the power draw. Keep you posted.
@@connerfealonhoulihan2292 interesting series of events. Do you have a multimeter? You can connect to the battery while cranking and watch the voltage drop. A healthy battery will drop to around 10.5-11 volts. Below that and it's either starting low or is weak. Best of luck.
@DrivingForwardBuilds the original one would drop to about 9. Went to AZ and swapped it out for a brand new one and got the same thing while cranking. Do you mind if I email you? I have a couple other questions
Unless I missed it I did not see where you mounted the ECU or the 2 relays? I know the ECU is inside the vehicle but where and how did you mount it? Thanks!
We didn’t film that part. I zip tied the harness and relays up to the bottom of the dash behind the aftermarket stereo. The Ecu is mounted flush against the firewall above the trans tunnel.
@@DrivingForwardBuilds Thank you for the information. You did a nice job explaining the install. I'm liking this FI system more and more. Now I'm waiting for the next video in the series. Not too basic and not over the top. A new subscriber 😀
@@Danno74Z Thanks for the feedback. I’m still new to all this and learning. There will be a few more videos in the series coming up. Including some problems I ran into.
I finally got my kit in, may I ask how you wired the coil - for initial start up? I have the aces kit with dist. and coil rather not cut the harness for temporary start up if possible
This is AWESOME!!!!! It's an incredible install and beautiful car. Look out for some Aces swag coming your way!
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Can u tune this system from a labtop?
@@alltherpm you can. I’m waiting to receive a tuning cable to give it a try myself.
I love how simple this looks
Thanks. Hopefully I didn’t over complicate it. I tend to talk too much. lol.
Your editing really got me 😂 on this one. Nice job!
Thanks 😆
Neat! Great Job! Look forward to your next episodes!
Hey Thanks! I'm working on them now. I'm not very fast at the editing thing....
Super Rad to see this, thakns for going into great detail on the install!
Thanks.
I gotta say i'm really enjoying watching your videos
I appreciate that. Thanks for commenting.
Looking good Jason 👍
Thanks!
Been looking at Aces for a while. Just got my killshot yesterday. Your videos will make this go a little more smooth. I'm adding a fitech mini sump for delivery.
Glad I could help. Hope the install goes great.
@@DrivingForwardBuilds As with anything, there a some negative comments in some of the discussions that I'm having.. All people that don't know anything about efi or had a bad experience with another company, Yada Yada. Asking someone who has installed and dealt with this system.. Any regrets? Mine is going on a super mild 318 driver.
@@danarcher6356 as the installer I don’t have any regrets. I felt it was well set up and included what was needed. From the tuning setup I had some trouble. My own problem because I’m not a tuner so there was steep learning curve and not much info in the manuals. I think being such a new company/product there will be growing pains. Lots of updates and changes/revisions to the products that could leave early adopters with some regrets. My buddy the owner has the car now and is getting it dialed in slowly. From his perspective he says it feels more responsive, slightly more powerful and overall he’s happy. He really likes that with the flip of a “switch” in the hand held he can make changes drive it and see a difference. Best of luck on your install.
@@danarcher6356how is it so far?
Another great video and there's nothing better than an Instant First Start huh 😜
I'd add Fuel Pressure data as soon as it's available because (I'm a Dataholic, lol) if your buddy ever has any kind of running issues later down the road
having fuel pressure data will tell you if/when you have a (pre injectors) fuel delivery issue. It hasn't happened often but I've had a few tunes that had
fuel pressure issues and it's slightly easier to watch/see data while driving than the gauge that's under the hood🙃
And since you said he doesn't drive it much I'd run Sta-bil 360 in the gas to help keep the fuel system clean and protected.
With crazy high humidity here in FL. we usually run Sta-Bil Marine. The marine cost a lot more but it's cheap insurance...
That’s great advise. We were thinking oil pressure but already have an analog gauge. The fuel pressure would be a good diagnostic for sure. I also didn’t know about the Sta-bil Marine, I’ll let him know. Thanks!
Another great Video. I may have missed it but where did you attach the red wire that was suppose to go to a "clean key-on/cranking +12v power source?
Originally we connected it to the original distributor/coil 12v ignition circuit. But that was not working well and had an intermittent short. So as a temporary measure until the fuse box can be upgraded we install an inline fuse and switch directly off the battery. Kind of like a kill switch.
Hey reaching out this is the most in depth videos I’ve found on the system. Just bought one but appear to be missing some of the things in the kit is there a way to reach out to you for a few questions?
Sure thing. Shoot me an email at the link in my bio.
Where did you put the PCV tube?
During our install we swapped the valve covers from side to side so the we could run the pcv line on the passenger side by the primary connector.
@@DrivingForwardBuilds but it’s still hooked to the throttle body? I had a shop do my instal, for various reasons. They got rid of the PCV entirely and hooked the break booster to the throttle body.
Would you agree that I need to install a PCV, run it into the aces unit, and hook my break booster to the intake manifold?
@@TheRamRanch Really you can go either way. During this install, I discussed removing the PCV with the owner and he chose to keep it in place. These older engines can breath to atmosphere (through a filter cap). It just depends on how you want it run, and the engine build.
@@DrivingForwardBuilds mine didn’t smoke before the fuel injection kit was installed. Now it’s smoking really bad out both breathers. Engine was recently rebuilt
@@TheRamRanch If it had the pcv hooked up previously all of the "smoke" would have been pulled through the intake under vacuum. Assuming no running issues causing excess smoke/vapor, reconnecting the PCV will eliminate that.
Ugh. I just replaced most of the coming system on an ls powered silverado and the whole thing was full of rust, scale, and decade old dexcool garbage. 100% plugged heater hoses etc so when you pulled that plug out of the crossover in the intake it hurt my soul.
Coolant flushes really need to happen more often. This whole idea of Lifetime Coolant or 100k seems like nonsense.
@DrivingForwardBuilds absolutely. Doubly so with dexcool/automotive jello.
I'm surprised the 4 hole spacer worked ok. Everything ive read is telling me an open spacer or manifold with the center cutout is needed.
We actually had both just in case. Not sure why it worked but it did.
Looks great. Does it have a built in pressure regulator? Really want to put this on my Charger lol.
The Killshot system does not. However in the previous video I installed the Aces fuel
Delivery kit and that does have a regulator in line on the return side.
Could a starter technically suck too much juice from the battery on start up that it could interrupt the ECU from working correctly? Mine will sometimes lose power while cranking and if it turns over, it doesn't stay running long, maybe 5-10 seconds if I'm lucky. Idk if it's original but it sure looks original styled ('66 mustang w/ 289).
It's possible that the starter is drawing the voltage down while cranking. But if that's the case then the battery is weak. It's important to know that the ignition signal is interrupted in factory form on these cars when cranking. We couldn't see the interruption on my multimeter. Even a momentary interruption is bad for an ECU. We tried using the factory coil power which appears to be continuous but in fact, wasn't. Our screen would turn off when cranking, indicating a break in the power. I decided to test my theory and hard-wired the ECU directly to the battery and when cranking it did not shut off. Being that this car needs some wiring work I added a temporary hard-wired switch to power the ECU and from then moving forward it did not shut off when cranking.
So I went ahead and wired the key-on to a separate battery directly but while it doesn't lose power now, I feel like I'm not getting enough fuel while cranking and am feeling like maybe the pump isn't getting enough power while cranking either. I'm going to be replacing the starter with a newer one with better torque this weekend, hopefully it helps with the power draw. Keep you posted.
@@connerfealonhoulihan2292 interesting series of events. Do you have a multimeter? You can connect to the battery while cranking and watch the voltage drop. A healthy battery will drop to around 10.5-11 volts. Below that and it's either starting low or is weak. Best of luck.
@DrivingForwardBuilds the original one would drop to about 9. Went to AZ and swapped it out for a brand new one and got the same thing while cranking.
Do you mind if I email you? I have a couple other questions
@@connerfealonhoulihan2292 Sure. My email is in my about section. I'm happy to help where I can.
How is the system working a year later?
The system was working great. The car was sold to fund another project though so no longer term review.
when did you install the fuel pump ?
I installed the fuel pump iin a prior video. ruclips.net/video/SqCSJ7xGif8/видео.html
Unless I missed it I did not see where you mounted the ECU or the 2 relays? I know the ECU is inside the vehicle but where and how did you mount it? Thanks!
We didn’t film that part. I zip tied the harness and relays up to the bottom of the dash behind the aftermarket stereo. The Ecu is mounted flush against the firewall above the trans tunnel.
@@DrivingForwardBuilds Thank you for the information. You did a nice job explaining the install. I'm liking this FI system more and more. Now I'm waiting for the next video in the series. Not too basic and not over the top. A new subscriber 😀
@@Danno74Z Thanks for the feedback. I’m still new to all this and learning. There will be a few more videos in the series coming up. Including some problems I ran into.
Did it run good with the hei? Im getting mixed reviews saying hei cannot be used with the aces?? Wtf
It should run fine with the HEI. In the controller, you just set the timing control to off.
@@DrivingForwardBuilds thank you
Hows the aces efi doing
It was doing well. The car was sold a few months ago though, so not sure at this point.
Need help on not a mechanic but on the distributor do I just remove the hei distributor then drop in the efi the same way as the old distributor
In short yes, they are a direct replacement. You do however need to make sure you are lining up the rotor with the correct piston.
12pt sockets fit taps...
Well hot dog. I totally should have know that. Thanks!
Can make different sound at idle
What do you mean?
Can u make it hunt
If you’re referring to loop like a cam no. It’s just controlling fuel and timing, not lift or duration.
How did it drive?
We’ve begun to get the tune dialed in and it is feeling great. More power (butt dyno) and seems to be consistent.
I finally got my kit in, may I ask how you wired the coil - for initial start up? I have the aces kit with dist. and coil rather not cut the harness for temporary start up if possible
@@Joebauers2505 The Ace's coil was powered off the Aces harness. There is a heavier gauge pair of wires with a flat plug that it connects to.
Hey...dude...lets go for a quick drive...c'mon man...
Lol. Let’s drive.
Easier to use a fishtape to put wires through.
Yeah for sure. In this case, the bundle was so big I had to do it one at a time.
#@$%#$^ BUNG-HOOoole
🎉