I came across this video when it was first put up and have been using a hinge to lock my coop door for over 4 years now. It has survived raccoons, foxes and even a bobcat. My door is a HDPE cutting board for the door and aluminum channel for the rails. We don’t have to worry much about the cold in west Texas but the predator load is very heavy. Great idea and thanks for sharing.
I just put a variation of this in my coop, works great. I used a clothes pin spring to force the hinge over, and made it flip to one side only so that there is no hole. Thanks so much for sharing your idea.
enscribe why not just use magnets. seems much easier. I already posted this so I'll just cut paste. I have a suggestion/modification that I will do on mine. Drop the header/top trim of the board so that the hinge will not be accessible to any predators. making it so the hinge can only fall one way. Shields it from the elements too. Next glue a small magnet to the top of the board just behind the hinge. This will ensure the hinge falls in place, adding extra effort to pull up. Some drawer magnets come with a hole in the center but if you can't find those, Harbor Freight has magnets you can glue on. Adding a magnet to the moving portion of the hinge gives it weight and helps stick to the other magnet.
Im making one like this for my coop and the front is blocked off and the top part of the hinge is pushed forward with a shim to create a slight angle, that way it physically cannot stay up and always falls forward. Only fail point I could imagine would be if junk got in the hinge over time and needed wd40 or something?
THanks for the idea! Exactly what I was looking for! Two comments or possible issues for improvement: 1) The opening will let out heat from the run/coop 2) We have snakes and ferrets/weasels that may be able to squeeze through the same gap. I am going to try to build a housing for the hinge mech that can minimize both issues. If it works out, I will post the solution if others are interested.
Excellent adaptation. My only suggestion would be to use picture hanging wire instead of fishing line. There is no reason to have to fix chewed up fishing line from a stubborn raccoon.
Very nice! After seeing a raccoon use it's nails to pull a swinging cat door towards itself so it could slip back out of our garage I have great respect for these critters. I would say make sure that they can't push the hinge up into the open position while pushing the door up enough (using the bottom of the hinge like you did) for the bottom of the door to clear the coop framing on the bottom of the door. I would make the following mods: 1) mount the hinge on the inside of the coop so the bottom of the hinge can't be used as a handle from the outside. 2) make the door tall enough and the bottom door frame deep enough that the hinge has to entirely disappear into the top before there is an opening at the bottom of the door. That seem to keep even our college educated raccoons from getting inside. Not sure if this door system would work for areas with snakes.
I used this method on my new coop, did it a little different. Liked the other folks idea of keeping the latch swinging one way so picking one of the non moving parts of the hinge barrel I angled a screw into the top of the door. Now the hinge cannot go past verticle to the other side and falls one way only. Works great and I had a hinge in my junk drawers, off what I can't remember. Why I kept it in there when I moved everything and threw most of it out 3 years ago, well now I guess I know. Thanks for the idea. Plenty of them on youtube and some are real Rube Goldberg inventions.
This is a brilliantly simple design! Thanks so much for sharing it! I've been looking for something that didn't involve electronic automation and this looks like it ought to fit the bill.
Ill be adapting this idea to use on my Goat house today! Coyotes are the major concern here for predation. I have a door that swings up, but it's not practical for the snow - this eliminates the snow issue and the predation issue. Thanks for your idea!
Definitely the easiest one to build. Here in East UK luckily we only have foxes to worry about and I'm pretty sure this will stop them from getting in the coop. Great idea 💡 Thanks for sharing 👍
I live in North Carolina and the Coyotes are spreading here fast, they go right through thin wooden and tin doors. We have had to add welded wire to our coop. We still use a wood panel door, we just added an angle iron frame for it to slide into so they can't get to the edge of the door.
I fancy myself to be pretty adept at solving these kinds of mechanical problems; but you, sir, are a genius! I was losing sleep over the fact that my Chicken Guard automatic door is not even remotely raccoon-proof even with the addition of a lower lip. Problem solved. Thank you for sharing this!
Just an idea. If you put the hinge near the bottom on the inside of the coop with a piece of wood as the block just above the hinge and forced the hinge to fall inside, the string problem goes away Using a smaller hinge decreases the amount the door rises before being locked. A few split shot sinkers should make the hinge fall the correct way.
Excellent! i was looking for a simple lock mech for my friends automatic coup door that uses a string system my current chicken door uses a threaded rod on a 12 v drill that holds the door down . It would be fairly easy to cover up the holes you have so the racoons wouldn't think to flip the hinge which is very unlikely anyways. good job!
I've looked a a dozen different ideas, and this is pretty darn slick! I'll be putting a variation of it in my coop. In my case, I'll set the hinge so it will fall inwards and out of sight, either by gravity or using a coil spring. Also looking at motorized options to lift/lower the door. Thanks!!
@@cobre7717 Mine is more like this: slinkyx.blogspot.com/2010/04/coop-door-gravity-latch-complete.html I made it, but I haven't installed it yet. Their run is large enough that we've not needed to let them out into their yard, and I just completed their yard a couple weeks ago. If all goes well, I'll install the door in the next few days. For now, we just let them in/out of the large 'human door'.
This is an awesome idea. I will be making a version of this in my, currently under construction, chicken tracker. I have a suggestion/modification that I will do on mine. Drop the header/top trim of the door so that the hinge will not be accessible to any predators and completely hidden from the outside and making it so the hinge can only fall one way. Next glue a small magnet just behind the hinge. This will ensure the hinge falls in place, adding extra effort to pull up. Some drawer magnets come with a hole in the center but if you can't find those, Harbor Freight has magnets you can glue on. Adding a magnet to the moving portion of the hinge gives it weight and helps stick to the other magnet.
@@willmontes85 "Next glue a small magnet just behind the hinge. This will ensure the hinge falls in place, adding extra effort to pull up." I covered that. But if you don't like that option you can always put a small screw and nut. Just long enough that the screw will not let the hinge go completely vertical. or a rivet that sticks out a tiny bit.
@@willmontes85 Im thinking of using a magnet for cabinets, its not as strong as the ones with the holes in them, the circle with 0 ones in them are crazy strong... at least the ones I have. Not sure it will want to pull it down anyways? Im gonna try the angled screw trick first
Don't get me wrong but, the animal is not stupid when it comes to hunting. If it were that part of the hinge fell in and not out, it would make an excellent door lock. I can come up with 1 idea to cover that flaw: - Place or re-make an extension underneath that horizontal wood with a spike that you have outside: the intention is that the other half of the hinge falls inside to serve as a safe and is not manipulated from the outside. The only slight inconvenience is to reposition the hinge by furrowing the wood so that the other half to be fastened is within the outer limit of the same wood. According to your theory, when you close the door the blow should lower the other half of the hinge so that it is closed ........... well ... my idea is to make sure that the insurance is covered and not exposed .
“In fact, it’s probably about as likely as evolution.” 🤣. I am going to build this locking door this weekend, but I want to use a narrower hinge, if I can find it. This is because I want the opening where the hinge falls to stay at 1” or smaller, which should restrict predator access. Thank you for sharing!
I live in Utah but I have read during the winter seasons you need to have ventilation in your coop anyway? Especially if everything is closed off trying to keep your girls warm during the winter?
Clever. The only down side I can see for our cold cold winters here in the north, is now you have a 2X3 hole for drafts to enter low in your coop. Otherwise I like it a lot.
I live in Utah but I have read during the winter seasons you need to have ventilation in your coop anyway? Especially if everything is closed off trying to keep your girls warm during the winter?
very clever. I think you could lift the door from the outside by lifting on the bottom edge of the hinge rather than the bottom edge of the door - but still would be likely too awkward even for racoons, although both their hands would be right their to do so with...
Looks great...my only concern is the opening at the hinge could let snakes in unless you have it set to where we can see the actual hinge operation. I'm thinking it could be covered somehow....Thanks
Nice,,,,,,,,everyone seems to be concerned with the gap for the hinge. My thought would be to put a small strip of hardware cloth over the top of the outer top section?
jeannean ingram I have a suggestion/modification that I will do on mine. Drop the header/top trim of the door so that the hinge will not be accessible to any predators. making it so the hinge can only fall one way. Shields it from the elements too. Next glue a small magnet just behind the hinge. This will ensure the hinge falls in place, adding extra effort to pull up. Some drawer magnets come with a hole in the center but if you can't find those, Harbor Freight has magnets you can glue on. Adding a magnet to the moving portion of the hinge gives it weight and helps stick to the other magnet.
I’ve already purchased an automatic door opener; now I’ll build my locking door just like the one in the video and attach it to the string under the opener, which will lift the door.
The only improvement I would make is instead of having the hole in the wall so it can fall both directions. add a light weight spring to make it fall back into the coop every time. that way weasels and snakes mice even feed thieving little birds cant get threw the cut out. and if a raccoon gets its paw in there you will be replacing that fishing line a lot. the simplicity of this is great.
Would you consider open source-ing the design? I am thinking of making and selling doors with an open source design so that anyone could build them if they want, or pay me to make it. I think all you have to do is say this is copyleft and that's it. I'll look up the details if you're interested.
Gives me an idea too! I ordered electro magnet 130# 12v for $20 amazon (uses LESS than 2 watts of power! That's like a night light amount!)...I will have it hold the door secure BUT I am putting springs that will constantly be trying to pull the door open ...then a time clock will cut the power every morning and springs will pull instantly the door open! fool proof! ...my door slides sideways but it should work on any type I think....cause man does it get old NEVER sleeping in! lol ....nothing is perfect though....if there is a power outage even for 2 seconds the door will open ...but seeing how it is unlikely a predator would just happen to be lying in wait exactly on that very rare occasion? I cant really be overly worried....I thought about building the self closing/opening door using power antenna a lot of folks have done but it is just a lot of work ....besides I mean one really should check their chickens multiple times a day anyway...we do ....no big deal tucking them in checking their water and stuff....the hassle is getting up at 5 to 6 ish EVERY dang morning am just to let em out! BTW if this appeals to you but you don't have electricity at your coup? You could simply buy a 12v battery and the cheap little solar charger from like harbor freight ....2 watts is nothing ...probably the smallest 12 volt battery and smallest solar panel/charger set up...but I already ran 120v down there so my wife can have a motion activated light and an outlet for shop vac etc.....So I'll just rummage through my box of old power supplies left over from various appliances and electronics or buy one if I have to ....120 volt ac in and 12 volt dc out ....1/2 or 1 amp rating would be more than enough! wiring is nothing on the 12 volt side ...the electric door magnet has 2 wires so connect one to one side of the battery and the other to one of the time clock's normally closed contacts ....the other side of contact connects to the other battery terminal ...okay you are right ...sigh ....I imagine little power supply from an old printer or something will be intrinsically protected against short circuit and fire ....but if using a battery for the 12 volts I would put a 1 amp fuse in line too just in case it shorts out somehow
It's been 5 years since you posted this video. Have you had any problems with the hinge sticking due to rust, dust or weathering? A factual account would be nice.
simplicity is always best. I like to call it simple genius. Like the 6 speeds forward and 2 reverse speeds of a snow blower without the use of gears. Of course this comparison is only good for anyone who has seen how snow blowers work.
Good thinking. Regardless of rust. The hinge isn't the part that opens or closes the door it's just the lock. Keep it oiled and you should be good. Mr. raccoon will be tempted to reach through the opening and try and grab the chicken rather than open the door.
What is to stop Mr Raccoon from pulling on the string? Mr Fox is also pretty clever and will probably get hold of that string as well. Raccoons and foxes will work at that door for hours grabbing and biting and they may actually even accidentally grab that string and pull on it until the door opens. Yes, if they get in they'll be trapped inside but isn't the safety of the chickens our biggest concern. It is a very simple design that works really well, I just feel the string is right there in the opening where the predators are bound to grab and bite and maybe even get tangled in the string which will open the door for them. I could be wrong.
+mosconi0359 You would have access to the string in a remote location from the door. If mr. raccoon grabs the string through the little hole at the door he will be pulling the lock/hing out blocking the opening. However if 2 operate as a band of bandits; they might be able to get in.
Over time the hinge will become dirty and rust. Once this happens, there is a risk the the hinge will stick in the vertical position after being lowered by the string. A work around would be to have a very loose tolerance, floppy hinge or possibly adding a weight to the top edge of the current hinge. Those thin galvanized steel hinges tend to get pretty stiff over a winter.
Aaron Bertoni I have a suggestion/modification that I will do on mine. Drop the header/top trim of the board so that the hinge will not be accessible to any predators. making it so the hinge can only fall one way. Shields it from the elements too. Next glue a small magnet to the top of the board just behind the hinge. This will ensure the hinge falls in place, adding extra effort to pull up. Some drawer magnets come with a hole in the center but if you can't find those, Harbor Freight has magnets you can glue on. Adding a magnet to the moving portion of the hinge gives it weight and helps stick to the other magnet.
Awesome for big predators but rats and snakes can still get in that hole left at the top once the hinge falls over. I wouldn't trust it to keep my baby chicks safe thank you!
My coop doesn't need a door between the coop and the run. They can come in or out freely. Having a door could potentially trap them inside on a hot day. Security is the most important thing, So I used chain link fencing which is buried deep. I also would't trust chicken wire or hardware cloth on the vents, So I used expanded metal. Cheers
D Montgomery Simply cover the air hole with a board on the outside of the coop. If you build your door really tall, you can hide the hinge and the top inside the wall of your coop.
This is great.. but how does it work?? Do my chickens get stuck inside or outside? Do i hav to go out every evening to untie the string and let it dn? I work nites and cannot always make it home in time. Having lots of loss :( I cannot afford a solar auto door closer.. i lime this concept, but how duz it work? No offense..i watched u jam on it for a few minutes straight.. but my question still stands. Thanks so much!
This is simple and fucking great!! Good idea mate. Its a racoon door not fkn snake door lol. Snakes dont eat chicken. Those big enough to eat chicken wount fit through that hole lol
+Cornie venzter Snakes in Australia love chicken eggs - super-venomous snakes. Dangerous shit when all you want to collect is some eggs. Also, most people are concerned with foxes - not racoons. So, welcome to the global internet.
Just one way to improve it: The few inches it can be lifted leaves a gap at the bottom. Cover that with a 1x2. Perhaps a small predator could pry up the door and slip under the bottom 2".
It looks there's an inch and a half or so raised threshold on the inside of the door, that I'm guessing he specifically added to eliminate the gap you rightly point out. You're absolutely correct though; one would want to add an inner threshold to counter the gap for the hinge.
I came across this video when it was first put up and have been using a hinge to lock my coop door for over 4 years now. It has survived raccoons, foxes and even a bobcat. My door is a HDPE cutting board for the door and aluminum channel for the rails. We don’t have to worry much about the cold in west Texas but the predator load is very heavy. Great idea and thanks for sharing.
I just put a variation of this in my coop, works great. I used a clothes pin spring to force the hinge over, and made it flip to one side only so that there is no hole. Thanks so much for sharing your idea.
+enscribe I would like to see how you did this.
I would like to hear how you did this as well! Great idea, just trying to wrap my brain around how to make it work.
enscribe why not just use magnets. seems much easier.
I already posted this so I'll just cut paste.
I have a suggestion/modification that I will do on mine. Drop the header/top trim of the board so that the hinge will not be accessible to any predators. making it so the hinge can only fall one way. Shields it from the elements too. Next glue a small magnet to the top of the board just behind the hinge. This will ensure the hinge falls in place, adding extra effort to pull up. Some drawer magnets come with a hole in the center but if you can't find those, Harbor Freight has magnets you can glue on. Adding a magnet to the moving portion of the hinge gives it weight and helps stick to the other magnet.
Im making one like this for my coop and the front is blocked off and the top part of the hinge is pushed forward with a shim to create a slight angle, that way it physically cannot stay up and always falls forward. Only fail point I could imagine would be if junk got in the hinge over time and needed wd40 or something?
THanks for the idea! Exactly what I was looking for! Two comments or possible issues for improvement: 1) The opening will let out heat from the run/coop 2) We have snakes and ferrets/weasels that may be able to squeeze through the same gap.
I am going to try to build a housing for the hinge mech that can minimize both issues. If it works out, I will post the solution if others are interested.
Excellent adaptation. My only suggestion would be to use picture hanging wire instead of fishing line. There is no reason to have to fix chewed up fishing line from a stubborn raccoon.
That is a dam good idea.....well done ,you might have saved our Chickens.
Very nice! After seeing a raccoon use it's nails to pull a swinging cat door towards itself so it could slip back out of our garage I have great respect for these critters. I would say make sure that they can't push the hinge up into the open position while pushing the door up enough (using the bottom of the hinge like you did) for the bottom of the door to clear the coop framing on the bottom of the door.
I would make the following mods: 1) mount the hinge on the inside of the coop so the bottom of the hinge can't be used as a handle from the outside. 2) make the door tall enough and the bottom door frame deep enough that the hinge has to entirely disappear into the top before there is an opening at the bottom of the door. That seem to keep even our college educated raccoons from getting inside.
Not sure if this door system would work for areas with snakes.
I used this method on my new coop, did it a little different. Liked the other folks idea of keeping the latch swinging one way so picking one of the non moving parts of the hinge barrel I angled a screw into the top of the door. Now the hinge cannot go past verticle to the other side and falls one way only. Works great and I had a hinge in my junk drawers, off what I can't remember. Why I kept it in there when I moved everything and threw most of it out 3 years ago, well now I guess I know. Thanks for the idea. Plenty of them on youtube and some are real Rube Goldberg inventions.
Well done - Just about to start a project where I need to make 6 of these doors and you've saved me a ton of time, thanks so much!
Love this ideal ! I was trying to figure out a simple way to lock the run door . Thanks !
Any update on your genius idea Sir? Simplicity is truly genius. Thank you for sharing.
Best self-locking system I've seen! Thank you for video.
This is a brilliantly simple design! Thanks so much for sharing it!
I've been looking for something that didn't involve electronic automation and this looks like it ought to fit the bill.
Ill be adapting this idea to use on my Goat house today! Coyotes are the major concern here for predation. I have a door that swings up, but it's not practical for the snow - this eliminates the snow issue and the predation issue. Thanks for your idea!
Definitely the easiest one to build.
Here in East UK luckily we only have foxes to worry about and I'm pretty sure this will stop them from getting in the coop.
Great idea 💡 Thanks for sharing 👍
I live in North Carolina and the Coyotes are spreading here fast, they go right through thin wooden and tin doors. We have had to add welded wire to our coop. We still use a wood panel door, we just added an angle iron frame for it to slide into so they can't get to the edge of the door.
I fancy myself to be pretty adept at solving these kinds of mechanical problems; but you, sir, are a genius! I was losing sleep over the fact that my Chicken Guard automatic door is not even remotely raccoon-proof even with the addition of a lower lip. Problem solved. Thank you for sharing this!
I wish I saw this before I did the hole for my coop door. Trying to figure how I can incorporate this way of doing it. I like it.
Amazing idea. Well done. Could also be used as a fox catcher if you have them around the place. Thank you very much.
You need a rotational spring, hinges stick.
Just an idea. If you put the hinge near the bottom on the inside of the coop with a piece of wood as the block just above the hinge and forced the hinge to fall inside, the string problem goes away Using a smaller hinge decreases the amount the door rises before being locked. A few split shot sinkers should make the hinge fall the correct way.
Excellent! i was looking for a simple lock mech for my friends automatic coup door that uses a string system my current chicken door uses a threaded rod on a 12 v drill that holds the door down . It would be fairly easy to cover up the holes you have so the racoons wouldn't think to flip the hinge which is very unlikely anyways. good job!
I've looked a a dozen different ideas, and this is pretty darn slick! I'll be putting a variation of it in my coop.
In my case, I'll set the hinge so it will fall inwards and out of sight, either by gravity or using a coil spring. Also looking at motorized options to lift/lower the door.
Thanks!!
What did u end up doing for your door?
@@cobre7717 Mine is more like this:
slinkyx.blogspot.com/2010/04/coop-door-gravity-latch-complete.html
I made it, but I haven't installed it yet.
Their run is large enough that we've not needed to let them out into their yard, and I just completed their yard a couple weeks ago.
If all goes well, I'll install the door in the next few days. For now, we just let them in/out of the large 'human door'.
awesome idea!!! very simple and easy
This is SO CLEVER. Thank you for sharing!
Use stainless steal To stop corrosion that might stop it from operating after time
Awesome!!! Thanks for sharing this idea. We are going to use it on our coop too.
you need a small spring to keep it in place. its a good idea . a small spring added to the hinge and door you will not have to be slammed it
This is so ingenious. Thanks!
Neat idea, we are putting it on the coup we are building now. "As likely as evolution" . . . love it! God bless.
Thank you!!! Great idea and it looks great
i'm a newbie, but door should remain open all day so they can go in and lay, am i wrong?
Can't wait to try this! Thanks!
This is amazing and I am so going to do this!!!
Great idea. The evolution of the pop-door!
My only worry would be the space letting in a weasel but I think I can make a some sort if hardwire cloth cage to block that.
This is an awesome idea. I will be making a version of this in my, currently under construction, chicken tracker.
I have a suggestion/modification that I will do on mine.
Drop the header/top trim of the door so that the hinge will not be accessible to any predators and completely hidden from the outside and making it so the hinge can only fall one way.
Next glue a small magnet just behind the hinge. This will ensure the hinge falls in place, adding extra effort to pull up. Some drawer magnets come with a hole in the center but if you can't find those, Harbor Freight has magnets you can glue on. Adding a magnet to the moving portion of the hinge gives it weight and helps stick to the other magnet.
I had the same idea but i think if you do that there is a chance the hinge will stay vertical resting against it.
@@willmontes85 "Next glue a small magnet just behind the hinge. This will ensure the hinge falls in place, adding extra effort to pull up." I covered that. But if you don't like that option you can always put a small screw and nut. Just long enough that the screw will not let the hinge go completely vertical. or a rivet that sticks out a tiny bit.
@@willmontes85 Im thinking of using a magnet for cabinets, its not as strong as the ones with the holes in them, the circle with 0 ones in them are crazy strong... at least the ones I have. Not sure it will want to pull it down anyways? Im gonna try the angled screw trick first
Wonderful Idea!! Thank you!!
Don't get me wrong but, the animal is not stupid when it comes to hunting. If it were that part of the hinge fell in and not out, it would make an excellent door lock.
I can come up with 1 idea to cover that flaw:
- Place or re-make an extension underneath that horizontal wood with a spike that you have outside: the intention is that the other half of the hinge falls inside to serve as a safe and is not manipulated from the outside. The only slight inconvenience is to reposition the hinge by furrowing the wood so that the other half to be fastened is within the outer limit of the same wood.
According to your theory, when you close the door the blow should lower the other half of the hinge so that it is closed ........... well ... my idea is to make sure that the insurance is covered and not exposed .
“In fact, it’s probably about as likely as evolution.” 🤣. I am going to build this locking door this weekend, but I want to use a narrower hinge, if I can find it. This is because I want the opening where the hinge falls to stay at 1” or smaller, which should restrict predator access. Thank you for sharing!
For years I couldn't find my password for this account until just recently. Enjoy!
Like the idea. Great work
Very clever design. However, the down side is that gaping hole which will let wind into the coop as well as various predators!
I live in Utah but I have read during the winter seasons you need to have ventilation in your coop anyway? Especially if everything is closed off trying to keep your girls warm during the winter?
It is a great plan, but I also need a trigger so when a predator enters it is stuck. I will see what I can figure out, but again great simple idea.
Now how do we keep the water out too? 🤔
I would appreciate it if someone can post some links where you can buy all the parts
This is brilliant!
Unbelievably simple but a ingenious idea !
Good job, I like the idea
It's great, but the gap over the door hinge, is it big enough for a predator?
you are a genius my friend! how can i build this?, materials?
Clever. The only down side I can see for our cold cold winters here in the north, is now you have a 2X3 hole for drafts to enter low in your coop. Otherwise I like it a lot.
+med1pilot1956 I think he's using a smaller hinge than that or you could use one that would limit the hole to 1" x 2".
I live in Utah but I have read during the winter seasons you need to have ventilation in your coop anyway? Especially if everything is closed off trying to keep your girls warm during the winter?
Tell me you've never encountered a weasel without telling me you've never encountered a weasel
This video:
Weasel is the only thing to truly "worry" about.
Guess what I'm going to do! Brilliant solution
very clever. I think you could lift the door from the outside by lifting on the bottom edge of the hinge rather than the bottom edge of the door - but still would be likely too awkward even for racoons, although both their hands would be right their to do so with...
Jamie Smith you can countersink the hinge and that would fix that.
Looks great...my only concern is the opening at the hinge could let snakes in unless you have it set to where we can see the actual hinge operation. I'm thinking it could be covered somehow....Thanks
Nice,,,,,,,,everyone seems to be concerned with the gap for the hinge. My thought would be to put a small strip of hardware cloth over the top of the outer top section?
+jeannean ingram no doubt. SOme folks just aren't that creative, though.
+jeannean ingram My only concern with the hinge gap is that it could create a substantial draft, which would be dangerous here in the winter.
jeannean ingram I have a suggestion/modification that I will do on mine. Drop the header/top trim of the door so that the hinge will not be accessible to any predators. making it so the hinge can only fall one way. Shields it from the elements too. Next glue a small magnet just behind the hinge. This will ensure the hinge falls in place, adding extra effort to pull up. Some drawer magnets come with a hole in the center but if you can't find those, Harbor Freight has magnets you can glue on. Adding a magnet to the moving portion of the hinge gives it weight and helps stick to the other magnet.
Looks great!
Awsome idea. What about rusty and dirt over time and exposure
Very ingenious. If I weren't using an automatic door, I'd definitely build it like yours.
I’ve already purchased an automatic door opener; now I’ll build my locking door just like the one in the video and attach it to the string under the opener, which will lift the door.
Wow! You might be a genius!
Sometimes the simplest thing is the most genius.
simple, effective exactly what I was looking for. ha e you found any negatives or made any changes since using it?
The only improvement I would make is instead of having the hole in the wall so it can fall both directions. add a light weight spring to make it fall back into the coop every time. that way weasels and snakes mice even feed thieving little birds cant get threw the cut out. and if a raccoon gets its paw in there you will be replacing that fishing line a lot. the simplicity of this is great.
i think this is ingenious
Very nice! Thanks for sharing!
Wow. too simple! Super, love it!
This is a great idea
Wow...very intelligent.... thankyou I'm using this design
Nice,, im building a coop, and this is an awesome idea.
Thanx
Would you consider open source-ing the design? I am thinking of making and selling doors with an open source design so that anyone could build them if they want, or pay me to make it.
I think all you have to do is say this is copyleft and that's it. I'll look up the details if you're interested.
really great idea
Gives me an idea too! I ordered electro magnet 130# 12v for $20 amazon (uses LESS than 2 watts of power! That's like a night light amount!)...I will have it hold the door secure BUT I am putting springs that will constantly be trying to pull the door open ...then a time clock will cut the power every morning and springs will pull instantly the door open! fool proof! ...my door slides sideways but it should work on any type I think....cause man does it get old NEVER sleeping in! lol ....nothing is perfect though....if there is a power outage even for 2 seconds the door will open ...but seeing how it is unlikely a predator would just happen to be lying in wait exactly on that very rare occasion? I cant really be overly worried....I thought about building the self closing/opening door using power antenna a lot of folks have done but it is just a lot of work ....besides I mean one really should check their chickens multiple times a day anyway...we do ....no big deal tucking them in checking their water and stuff....the hassle is getting up at 5 to 6 ish EVERY dang morning am just to let em out! BTW if this appeals to you but you don't have electricity at your coup? You could simply buy a 12v battery and the cheap little solar charger from like harbor freight ....2 watts is nothing ...probably the smallest 12 volt battery and smallest solar panel/charger set up...but I already ran 120v down there so my wife can have a motion activated light and an outlet for shop vac etc.....So I'll just rummage through my box of old power supplies left over from various appliances and electronics or buy one if I have to ....120 volt ac in and 12 volt dc out ....1/2 or 1 amp rating would be more than enough! wiring is nothing on the 12 volt side ...the electric door magnet has 2 wires so connect one to one side of the battery and the other to one of the time clock's normally closed contacts ....the other side of contact connects to the other battery terminal ...okay you are right ...sigh ....I imagine little power supply from an old printer or something will be intrinsically protected against short circuit and fire ....but if using a battery for the 12 volts I would put a 1 amp fuse in line too just in case it shorts out somehow
It's been 5 years since you posted this video. Have you had any problems with the hinge sticking due to rust, dust or weathering? A factual account would be nice.
Genius. The best ideas are the simplest ones.
simplicity is always best. I like to call it simple genius. Like the 6 speeds forward and 2 reverse speeds of a snow blower without the use of gears. Of course this comparison is only good for anyone who has seen how snow blowers work.
Good thinking. Regardless of rust. The hinge isn't the part that opens or closes the door it's just the lock. Keep it oiled and you should be good. Mr. raccoon will be tempted to reach through the opening and try and grab the chicken rather than open the door.
+lechatboote - Raccoon reaching in? Raise the threshold.
Nice, but what about the big hole above the door? Plenty big for a weasel.
Looks good! Going to try a variation of it!
Awesome idea. Very smart
Fabulous job!
What is to stop Mr Raccoon from pulling on the string? Mr Fox is also pretty clever and will probably get hold of that string as well. Raccoons and foxes will work at that door for hours grabbing and biting and they may actually even accidentally grab that string and pull on it until the door opens. Yes, if they get in they'll be trapped inside but isn't the safety of the chickens our biggest concern. It is a very simple design that works really well, I just feel the string is right there in the opening where the predators are bound to grab and bite and maybe even get tangled in the string which will open the door for them. I could be wrong.
+mosconi0359 You would have access to the string in a remote location from the door. If mr. raccoon grabs the string through the little hole at the door he will be pulling the lock/hing out blocking the opening. However if 2 operate as a band of bandits; they might be able to get in.
You could always run the Strong through some Piping. Or some Other form of barrier like Wire coverings etc.
Put the string or rope on the inside of the coop, that stops that problem
How do you build it?
Great idea!
Over time the hinge will become dirty and rust. Once this happens, there is a risk the the hinge will stick in the vertical position after being lowered by the string. A work around would be to have a very loose tolerance, floppy hinge or possibly adding a weight to the top edge of the current hinge. Those thin galvanized steel hinges tend to get pretty stiff over a winter.
+Aaron Bertoni Use a brass hinge.
Aaron Bertoni I have a suggestion/modification that I will do on mine. Drop the header/top trim of the board so that the hinge will not be accessible to any predators. making it so the hinge can only fall one way. Shields it from the elements too. Next glue a small magnet to the top of the board just behind the hinge. This will ensure the hinge falls in place, adding extra effort to pull up. Some drawer magnets come with a hole in the center but if you can't find those, Harbor Freight has magnets you can glue on. Adding a magnet to the moving portion of the hinge gives it weight and helps stick to the other magnet.
I’ve found WD40 once before winter and once during middle of winter it most all locks / metal moving parts operate freely
Awesome for big predators but rats and snakes can still get in that hole left at the top once the hinge falls over. I wouldn't trust it to keep my baby chicks safe thank you!
My coop doesn't need a door between the coop and the run. They can come in or out freely. Having a door could potentially trap them inside on a hot day. Security is the most important thing, So I used chain link fencing which is buried deep. I also would't trust chicken wire or hardware cloth on the vents, So I used expanded metal. Cheers
Génial ce système !
I like the door but since I live in Michigan I don't want an air hole to let in cold air. I have no mechanical ability do you have any suggestions ?
D Montgomery Simply cover the air hole with a board on the outside of the coop.
If you build your door really tall, you can hide the hinge and the top inside the wall of your coop.
deasttn p
This is great.. but how does it work?? Do my chickens get stuck inside or outside? Do i hav to go out every evening to untie the string and let it dn? I work nites and cannot always make it home in time. Having lots of loss :( I cannot afford a solar auto door closer.. i lime this concept, but how duz it work? No offense..i watched u jam on it for a few minutes straight.. but my question still stands. Thanks so much!
Cedar wood is easily chewed. Try using a plywood to keep squirrels and rats out. Replace when needed.
I'm using this!!!! Thank you
Wonderful
Great idea!
Subscribed.
Perfect solution.
good job!
Great idea thank you for sharing buddy.
This is simple and fucking great!! Good idea mate. Its a racoon door not fkn snake door lol. Snakes dont eat chicken. Those big enough to eat chicken wount fit through that hole lol
+Cornie venzter Snakes in Australia love chicken eggs - super-venomous snakes. Dangerous shit when all you want to collect is some eggs.
Also, most people are concerned with foxes - not racoons. So, welcome to the global internet.
Nice idea, it probably works well with predators like a raccoon or larger, but what about keeping mice and rats from coming in.
Good idea!!! Thanks!
Just one way to improve it: The few inches it can be lifted leaves a gap at the bottom. Cover that with a 1x2. Perhaps a small predator could pry up the door and slip under the bottom 2".
I think a weasel could get in
Yeah weasels are smart and could get into that gap so that's why I'm saying he'd want to cover it
It looks there's an inch and a half or so raised threshold on the inside of the door, that I'm guessing he specifically added to eliminate the gap you rightly point out. You're absolutely correct though; one would want to add an inner threshold to counter the gap for the hinge.
Weasels?