I just completed replacement of pads and rotors at all four corners of my 2017 V60 T5 (with solid rear disks), and in case anyone else runs into this: the rear pistons must be wound back into the calipers. They do not simply push in. They are a clockwise rotation. Other than that, this video was really helpful, like the other FCP Euro how-to tutorials. Thanks for producing these - I've used several of them, and in particular the inclusion of all the torque specs etc is invaluable (and I like the lack of "fluff" - right to the point and no messing around).
With the electronic parking brake once you have the caliper off put a small block of wood in the gap where the pads would go and then unplug the electrical connection from the motor. You will see two pins inside and you just put a 12v supply across and you can wind the motor back. The block of wood is to stop the piston coming out if the motor is winding out. If it is winding out just swap the wires over and it will go the other way. Do not forget to put the connector back on the motor.
Found this video today when I had to do the rear brakes on an XC60 and my diag software didn't have the EPB release function. This comment actually became a lifesaver for me because I did exactly as this comment says and was able to wind back the parkinng brake so i could wind the piston back all the way and fit new brakes. Thanks a mil it really works and its effortless.
A great help. Did the job (both rear breaks and callipers) in 2 hours, only 4 bolts and a torx50 screw needed to dismantle the lot. Re the electronic handbrake. 2 torx30 screws to separate the motor from the piston, torx40 to wind back the piston then easy to use a G cramp to collapse the piston. If you use the battery method you have to put pressure on the motor casing to collapse the piston. Also did the front pads and discs (just as straight forward), paid £255 for all 4 wheels, dealership wanted £1,100.
I used a 9V battery to manipulate the e-brake motor, so that I wouldn't need a scan tool or have to dismantle the motor. Other than that, this video was spot on for my 2011 XC60. Thanks!
@@igoldin74 Check out this video, starting around 50 secs in: ruclips.net/video/8y54DKRHlAo/видео.html . I know it looks like you're inserting these wires into a black hole, but there are contacts in there that you're hitting. You'll hear the motor turning, and may need to reverse polarity with the battery if it goes in the wrong direction. Use a fresh 9V, I think I basically drained a whole one between both sides of the car.
Great walk through. If you need details on how to retract the parking brake, they have a write up on their blog on it and some other RUclipsrs have videos showing it.
13:39 If anyone is wondering, YES, that is WAAY to much grease. Dangerously so. A little dab spread out with a finger will do. The amount of grease he leaves on could, with the heat generated by breaking, become runny and spill onto the rotors and disable your brakes.
You don't need a computer or anything. You need a t30 to remove the park brake motor. It's 2 bolts. Underneath it has a splined shaft that inserts into a hole on the back of the caliper. Use a t40 to twist that and it backs right out easy. Then use the t50 to remove the rotor.
@@fcpeuro but there is a relearn procedure for the brake pads position, no? Presumably that's what the 808 was initiating at the end and I believe VIDA references this, though I could be wrong (mine's a 2012 T6)
Great video but I have an issue with the caliper piston retracting. I follow these instructions to a T, I have the Autel scanner mx808. When I go into Volvo, hot functions, replace brake pads, start, I can hear the motor but the piston doesn’t retract. Not sure why that is, in fact it seems to tighten
I was wondering if it is worth changing the Caliper flange bolts for new ones for every change of pads? I've seen some reviews to say to do this, and some say not to bother. Also, how often does one change the rotors per pad change....?
Take off the electrical motor connector from the electronic parking brake, use a 12V small battery and connect it to the electric motor terminals. Depending on polarity of the wires connected it will retract the parking brake.
Today I tried to change the rear discs on my Volvo XC60 D3/D4 from 2012. The saddle with EPB motor was rather easy to release (and I used a 12V battery to return the pistons) but then when I tried to unbolt the two 15mm bolts (see 7:47) they unbolted in the beginning (not easy) but after a few normal turns they became so heavy to turn over that I thought they we're going to snap. So I decided to stop and put everything together again. Quite frustrating that I only could change the brake pads but not the discs... Has anyone advice about this? Is it normal that these 15mm bolts become very difficult to unbolt at the end??? It seems not logical and strange to me.
I tried replacing just my brake pads and the brake pads on rotors that were slightly grooved. The brake pads wore out quickly. Now I am replacing the brake pads and the rotors. I did not end up saving any money. However the brake pads I replaced on old rotors that were not grooved are lasting fine. Could be coincidence though.
2019 xc60 has two different options for rotors and pads. If I want to use the bigger rotors/thicker pads, will this increase be a problem with OEM/factory rims? Or, do I need to buy bigger rims to accommodate?
10:26 What is the part number for those clips?! (I've got a 2014 Volvo S60 T5) I can't find them online and I just need to find those specific parts to start work on this job. Thanks!
Doesn't tapping the rotor run the risk of damaging the wheel bearings? I had a 1976 and 1983 Volvo 240 and the Haynes Manuals of the time warned against this. Thank you!
On a modern vehicle with modern wheel bearings, the chances of damage from tapping a stuck rotor in order to remove it is very very low. We have never had this issue.
Could u do a vid of Volvo p3 buyers guide just recently bought a 2015 Volvo XC 60 3.0 t6 pole star and can’t find any real good informational videos about it
Good job done. Observe do not put grease over all brake pins. Doing it will get rubber housing swallow and then brake pads will brake unevely. Just grease the top on brake pins 👍
Why do all the brake repair videos here on YT never losen the bleeder screw to compress the piston back into the caliper. The fluid in the caliper can and often does turn acidic. The rear brakes aren't as critical as the fronts but still there is enough fluid in the piston that as it is compressed can make it into the ABS system. The front breaks can push fluid into and through the ABS system and into the master cylinder. Everyone always talks about replace everything as to be cheap insurance by not cutting corners so why push the old nasty fluid back into the most expensive part of the brake system. A bottle of new brake fluid is also cheap insurance.
I just did this job on my 2017 V90 CC, but I was unsure for the caliper pin torque specs. It was a 7mm allen pin bolt. 35nM seemed like too much as was used in the video, so I went with 28nM as I did with the fronts. Can anyone confirm if that is the correct torque? Thanks!
@@raymond1124 Oh, well then you'd have to find a more specific video for your car, but I'd assume if it's on the P3 platform then, like they said, it'll be the same for all of them. But I'd for sure double check online.
I have Volvo xc60 II, and gedore 40-200nm, so I wonder can I tighten screw on rotor and calipers instead of 35 to 40nm. That is 5 additional kg of force, so in theory when it comes to small values such as 35nm very small difference in strength, but again I never tried so I wonder if it is safe?
All that grease on the brake pads? NO NO NO. It will pick up every bit of dust and dirt. If the breaks get really hot it will melt and run onto the discs and or the pad friction surface and your breaks are then useless. No manufacturer recommend this either.
Dude 12volts or 9v battery with two wires is ALL YOU NEED to retract the motor, saving tons of time, but i guess you want to sell the fancy computer. Then all you do is engage the brake, and release it three times. done.
How to know if you have an EPB?. Take the wheel off and look for a motor on the brake caliper? NO. Look in the car and see if you have a huge hand (or foot) operated lever. If not, you have EPB.
If you look in your Volvo on the driver side, there will be a little level on the left side of the steering wheel that you can press to engage the parking brake. That is how you know yours if electric. I think for Volvo's that are 2013 and newer have electronic parking brakes...but I could be wrong.
@@chrisdigital Yeah, shove that bad fluid back into the reservoir. The fluid in the caliper can and often does turn acidic. The rear brakes aren't as critical as the fronts but still there is enough fluid in the piston that as it is compressed can make it into the ABS system. The front breaks can push fluid into and through the ABS system and into the master cylinder. Everyone always talks about replace everything as to be cheap insurance by not cutting corners so why push the old nasty fluid back into the most expensive part of the brake system.
It's terrible! Ate Plastilube grease is not intended for caliper guides. It can't be used there. It is only for the guides of the brake pad and the fur coat on the brake pad.
I just completed replacement of pads and rotors at all four corners of my 2017 V60 T5 (with solid rear disks), and in case anyone else runs into this: the rear pistons must be wound back into the calipers. They do not simply push in. They are a clockwise rotation.
Other than that, this video was really helpful, like the other FCP Euro how-to tutorials. Thanks for producing these - I've used several of them, and in particular the inclusion of all the torque specs etc is invaluable (and I like the lack of "fluff" - right to the point and no messing around).
With the electronic parking brake once you have the caliper off put a small block of wood in the gap where
the pads would go and then unplug the electrical connection from the motor. You will see two pins inside
and you just put a 12v supply across and you can wind the motor back. The block of wood is to stop the
piston coming out if the motor is winding out. If it is winding out just swap the wires over and it will go the other way.
Do not forget to put the connector back on the motor.
Thank you very much!
Found this video today when I had to do the rear brakes on an XC60 and my diag software didn't have the EPB release function. This comment actually became a lifesaver for me because I did exactly as this comment says and was able to wind back the parkinng brake so i could wind the piston back all the way and fit new brakes. Thanks a mil it really works and its effortless.
Yoiu can unwind the EPB with a torx bit at the rear of the caliper. Remember to switch the EPB to "off" before this is possible.
A great help. Did the job (both rear breaks and callipers) in 2 hours, only 4 bolts and a torx50 screw needed to dismantle the lot. Re the electronic handbrake. 2 torx30 screws to separate the motor from the piston, torx40 to wind back the piston then easy to use a G cramp to collapse the piston. If you use the battery method you have to put pressure on the motor casing to collapse the piston. Also did the front pads and discs (just as straight forward), paid £255 for all 4 wheels, dealership wanted £1,100.
I use copper grease, which is heat resistant, and I only apply it at the end of the break pads!
I used a 9V battery to manipulate the e-brake motor, so that I wouldn't need a scan tool or have to dismantle the motor. Other than that, this video was spot on for my 2011 XC60. Thanks!
Can you please explain how you did that?
@@igoldin74 Check out this video, starting around 50 secs in: ruclips.net/video/8y54DKRHlAo/видео.html . I know it looks like you're inserting these wires into a black hole, but there are contacts in there that you're hitting. You'll hear the motor turning, and may need to reverse polarity with the battery if it goes in the wrong direction. Use a fresh 9V, I think I basically drained a whole one between both sides of the car.
Great walk through. If you need details on how to retract the parking brake, they have a write up on their blog on it and some other RUclipsrs have videos showing it.
Thanks for sharing the other info, definitely tons of stuff on the blog we may not have videos for!
13:39 If anyone is wondering, YES, that is WAAY to much grease. Dangerously so. A little dab spread out with a finger will do. The amount of grease he leaves on could, with the heat generated by breaking, become runny and spill onto the rotors and disable your brakes.
Excellent video, very clear and concise.
Awesome video for P3 cars! Thanks!!
You don't need a computer or anything. You need a t30 to remove the park brake motor. It's 2 bolts. Underneath it has a splined shaft that inserts into a hole on the back of the caliper. Use a t40 to twist that and it backs right out easy. Then use the t50 to remove the rotor.
Would be awesome to see a video for Volvo P3 chassis - blower motor replacement :)
ruclips.net/video/z-9SKu49LBE/видео.html
Thanks for an informative video.
You can also wire 12v directly to the e-brake motor. One polarity will tighten it down and the other will retract. Typically pretty obvious.
Great point Cory, we'll have to show that method in our next video.
I used a 9V battery :) it worked
@@fcpeuro but there is a relearn procedure for the brake pads position, no? Presumably that's what the 808 was initiating at the end and I believe VIDA references this, though I could be wrong (mine's a 2012 T6)
Wheel bolts should be tightened 140Nm
I'm real late but really doesn't matter I drive 130 with bolts at 110 ft pounds
MORE P3 CHASIS VIDEOS PLEASE!!!!!!!
To right ,my head's in bits trying to find good videos like this for my p3 Volvo
Thank you for the video. Please post more for this vehicle.
You re perfection my friend ! Its absolutely perfect well done
Great video but I have an issue with the caliper piston retracting. I follow these instructions to a T, I have the Autel scanner mx808. When I go into Volvo, hot functions, replace brake pads, start, I can hear the motor but the piston doesn’t retract. Not sure why that is, in fact it seems to tighten
I was wondering if it is worth changing the Caliper flange bolts for new ones for every change of pads? I've seen some reviews to say to do this, and some say not to bother. Also, how often does one change the rotors per pad change....?
thanks guys! please more video for P2
Lot more coming out soon!
One suggestion: lube the pads after they're in the bracket on the car. Less chance of handling a slippery pad and dropping/contaminating it.
i know it's kind of randomly asking but does anybody know a good website to watch newly released series online?
@Elliot Jordy Flixportal =)
@Terrance Eric thanks, I signed up and it seems to work :) Appreciate it !!
@Elliot Jordy You are welcome xD
Take off the electrical motor connector from the electronic parking brake, use a 12V small battery and connect it to the electric motor terminals. Depending on polarity of the wires connected it will retract the parking brake.
A 9V battery will also work.
Today I tried to change the rear discs on my Volvo XC60 D3/D4 from 2012. The saddle with EPB motor was rather easy to release (and I used a 12V battery to return the pistons) but then when I tried to unbolt the two 15mm bolts (see 7:47) they unbolted in the beginning (not easy) but after a few normal turns they became so heavy to turn over that I thought they we're going to snap. So I decided to stop and put everything together again. Quite frustrating that I only could change the brake pads but not the discs... Has anyone advice about this? Is it normal that these 15mm bolts become very difficult to unbolt at the end??? It seems not logical and strange to me.
u dont used new caliper bolts?
Right to the point! 100% the best!
I tried replacing just my brake pads and the brake pads on rotors that were slightly grooved. The brake pads wore out quickly. Now I am replacing the brake pads and the rotors. I did not end up saving any money. However the brake pads I replaced on old rotors that were not grooved are lasting fine. Could be coincidence though.
VERY EDUCATIVE.THANK YOU REGARDS
2019 xc60 has two different options for rotors and pads. If I want to use the bigger rotors/thicker pads, will this increase be a problem with OEM/factory rims? Or, do I need to buy bigger rims to accommodate?
the bestclinic clip!
Can anyone confirm that the Autel Maxicheck tool in the video can also work for the parking brake on an SPA 2019 Volvo?
10:26 What is the part number for those clips?! (I've got a 2014 Volvo S60 T5) I can't find them online and I just need to find those specific parts to start work on this job. Thanks!
Hello, those are typically included with the pads!
@@fcpeuro Oh ok! Thanks for informing me of that. I bought Brembo Brakes but I'm sure they're in there. Thanks!
Does The MaxiCheck MX808S work on Toyota also?
Doesn't tapping the rotor run the risk of damaging the wheel bearings? I had a 1976 and 1983 Volvo 240 and the Haynes Manuals of the time warned against this. Thank you!
On a modern vehicle with modern wheel bearings, the chances of damage from tapping a stuck rotor in order to remove it is very very low. We have never had this issue.
@@fcpeuro Thank you very much!
thank you
Professional video, I like it !
Thank you, glad you like it!
Great video
Not a fan of using channel locks to retract the piston, always prefer a C-clamp to get a smoother and slower pressure. Still, great video!
Why does brake cleaner evaporate so quickly? Will the brake cleaner dissolve the Z coated rotors? I’ve never seen those before.
What kind of grease do you use for the pins?.
Silicone Grease from 3m 08946 ACDelco 10-4019 or Raybestos DBL2T
Is there a way to retract the parking brake thru vida ? 🤔
Yes. Or wind using a torx screwdriver.
Over the top with these tork wrenches .
Amazing guide video, Good job.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I need you here to work on my 2017 XC60 T6 r design
Sending him Next Day Air!
Go to the 3:00 mark
Could u do a vid of Volvo p3 buyers guide just recently bought a 2015 Volvo XC 60 3.0 t6 pole star and can’t find any real good informational videos about it
we can certainly add it to the list!
Good job done. Observe do not put grease over all brake pins. Doing it will get rubber housing swallow and then brake pads will brake unevely. Just grease the top on brake pins 👍
Loved the vid
Why do all the brake repair videos here on YT never losen the bleeder screw to compress the piston back into the caliper. The fluid in the caliper can and often does turn acidic. The rear brakes aren't as critical as the fronts but still there is enough fluid in the piston that as it is compressed can make it into the ABS system. The front breaks can push fluid into and through the ABS system and into the master cylinder. Everyone always talks about replace everything as to be cheap insurance by not cutting corners so why push the old nasty fluid back into the most expensive part of the brake system. A bottle of new brake fluid is also cheap insurance.
Fresh brake fluid is always recommended each 2 years, but don’t need to be done simultanious with the replacement of the rotors? Or am I wrong?
Well, then you might introduce air into the lines.
@@GymChessNo, it just means you shouldn't be doing a brake pad replacement if you can't do it without getting air in the calipers.
I just did this job on my 2017 V90 CC, but I was unsure for the caliper pin torque specs. It was a 7mm allen pin bolt. 35nM seemed like too much as was used in the video, so I went with 28nM as I did with the fronts. Can anyone confirm if that is the correct torque? Thanks!
35 NM was the correct torque spec on that bolt
@@michigan_supercars6569 do you have a source? 35nM felt like it was going to strip it.
@@raymond1124 Yes sir, in fact you can find it online as well as in this video. Hope this helps!
@@michigan_supercars6569 this video is not for a V90 CC. If you have a link for that car specifically, that would be great.
@@raymond1124 Oh, well then you'd have to find a more specific video for your car, but I'd assume if it's on the P3 platform then, like they said, it'll be the same for all of them. But I'd for sure double check online.
Странно , задние колодки обычно идут trw, а передние ate
XC40 is the same method?
Is my 2017 VOLVO XC60 T6 r design a P3?
Have you guys done a video for a front pad and rotor change for this car?
We haven't yet but it's in the que!
@@fcpeuro Awesome and thank you for you respons. Great video and I really do appretiate how you guys explain every detail.
Copper slip , great brake greece
I have Volvo xc60 II, and gedore 40-200nm, so I wonder can I tighten screw on rotor and calipers instead of 35 to 40nm. That is 5 additional kg of force, so in theory when it comes to small values such as 35nm very small difference in strength, but again I never tried so I wonder if it is safe?
Hand tight for those.
So the caliper pistons did not need 'winding' back in?
Did it look like he wound it in? No he pressed it in.
All that grease on the brake pads? NO NO NO. It will pick up every bit of dust and dirt. If the breaks get really hot it will melt and run onto the discs and or the pad friction surface and your breaks are then useless. No manufacturer recommend this either.
What about parking brake shoes?
Edit: My bad, P3 has the clamping motor screw so no shoes. Hehe!
@FCP Euro: there is no front rotor&pad DIY video? Shame...
Hey there, you can follow this guide for your P3 XC60! ruclips.net/video/Uvs3shNsYlk/видео.html
Dude 12volts or 9v battery with two wires is ALL YOU NEED to retract the motor, saving tons of time, but i guess you want to sell the fancy computer. Then all you do is engage the brake, and release it three times. done.
6:35
How to know if you have an EPB?. Take the wheel off and look for a motor on the brake caliper? NO. Look in the car and see if you have a huge hand (or foot) operated lever. If not, you have EPB.
If you look in your Volvo on the driver side, there will be a little level on the left side of the steering wheel that you can press to engage the parking brake. That is how you know yours if electric. I think for Volvo's that are 2013 and newer have electronic parking brakes...but I could be wrong.
Why using the tool to turn of handbrake? Use the button lmao
Why didn't you just put the entire bottle of grease on the back side? You were almost there anyways
😂🤣 same thing I was thinking
All metres
BFH ... former Navy? aka Thor.
What scanner is used
Hi Brian, we are using the Autel MX808 in this video which is available on FCPEuro.com, along with a few others as well.
@@fcpeuro ok.that is the same scanner that I have but don't have the option to retract the brake.
no way was the caliper bracket that easy.
“This isn’t the biggest FH I have”
Why you didn’t open the brake bleeder screw??
No need! Why create a problem! the fluid goes back to the resivour
@@chrisdigital Yeah, shove that bad fluid back into the reservoir. The fluid in the caliper can and often does turn acidic. The rear brakes aren't as critical as the fronts but still there is enough fluid in the piston that as it is compressed can make it into the ABS system. The front breaks can push fluid into and through the ABS system and into the master cylinder. Everyone always talks about replace everything as to be cheap insurance by not cutting corners so why push the old nasty fluid back into the most expensive part of the brake system.
As long as you don't have the brake pedal depressed, then there will be no problems when pushing the caliper piston back in.
Discs for heavens sake
It's terrible! Ate Plastilube grease is not intended for caliper guides. It can't be used there. It is only for the guides of the brake pad and the fur coat on the brake pad.
A tutorial that uses a scanner??? Lol what a joke
We are open to alternatives! How would you do this brake job?
@@fcpeuro Take the EPB motor off and wind by the torx?
@@thejoyoffix4720 This is how every other video without a scan tool does it as well, I don't have that tool and have to turn by hand