Volvo rear brakes replacement with electronic parking brake. (EPB)
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Replacing rear brakes pads and rotors with electronic parking brake (EPB)
First time doing the rear brakes. Car has 54,000km or 33,500 miles.
Volvo Brake pads - 30671574
Volvo Rear vented Rotors with EPB - 31341483
Volvo electronic motor seal/bolts kit - 30881857
Or LR031305 from Land Rover
Cheaper Alternative to Volvo Seal/Bolt kit is:
Bolt: VAG - N01 470 111
Seal: VAG - 4E0 615 137
You can see Volvo had lowered hardware metal quality in post 2010 cars. See how rusty are these after 2-3 years.
2001-2009 model would not rust like this and had great bolts/nuts quality, easy to undo even after 10 years in salt.
Great Video, thank you so much. After watching, I had the confidence to tackle the rear brakes on my own XC60. All went like clockwork. Had both sides done in 90 minutes. Saved a fortune on main dealer prices.
I just replaced my rear pads using the "connect 12V to the motor method".
Here is the detail:
Rear brake pads - Volvo with EPB (Electronic Parking Brake)
Leave handbrake on
Jack up and remove rear roadwheel
Remove slider bolts (13mm & 15mm spanners)
Remove EPB motor plug by puling upwards. This is the most difficult bit. You will need to slide a small screwdriver upwards into the latching mechanism at the rear of the connector. Keep the tip of the screwdriver in contact with the body of the connector (the bit which is part of the motor), whilst sliding it up. The tip of the screwdriver will gently prise away a latch, which is part of the connector on the end of the cable, away from a projection on the body of the connector.
Power motor release using a 9V or 12V battery. Drivers side forward most pin negative to release (passenger side is the opposite). The motor runs for about 18seconds if the pads are fully worn out.
Pull off carrier, pads and slider shoes
Replace shoes (if one is rubber coated, fit this to the upper part of the caliper)
Put a small amount of silicone grease on pad parts which touch the slider.
Use Sealey tool to retract piston slowly (don’t turn the piston, just push it back slowly). Keep an eye on the master cylinder level to make sure it doesn’t overflow.
Put caliper back. Replace slider bolts.
Power motor in reverse (reverse the polarity of the wiring) to seat piston (about 3sec).
Press brake pedal to seat pads.
The worst part is releasing the plug from the EPB. It is probably woth repeating that bit (I broke the first connector before realising this).
The part of the connector which is fixed to the motor body has a small projection (like a ski ramp) on the back. The free part of the connector which is on the cable has a clip which rides up the ramp when the connector is pushed home, until clip reaches the end of the ramp and drops drops off the end, so clipping it in place securely.
To release it, you need to insert the screwdrive upwards (running it close to the body of the fixed part of the connector). As you do this, it will lift the clip away from the end of the ramp, and so allow you to pull the connector off.
Very valuable comment. I will add this to the video description later. Thank you for sharing with us.
An excellent description of this method.
To avoid the replacement of El engine just put 12 volts on el engine . One position+it gonna brake. Change the wires each other + and it gonna unbrake. 7-12 second are enough. Then just press the piston.
Good video, but a few things I would have done differently.
No need to take off the parking brake motors, I use a 10amp 12 volt power supply to wind the plunger back, its faster and easier.
I did not see you clean the packing oil from the replacement discs or clean the hub mounting surface and protect the surface with copper slip, I would recommend doing this every time on a disc and pad change.
It's good practice to inspect the slide pin rubbers and pins, check the rubbers for tears and cracks and the pins for uneven wear, I always clean off the old grease from the slide surfaces and pins then renew with proper slide pin grease, not copper slip.
I always use a torque wrench to re-torque all brake system nuts and bolts on reassembly.
A little bit of anti corrosion grease on the mating surfaces of the road wheel and bolts helps next time the wheel is removed, good opportunity to inspect the tyre too.
Good luck with your next service and stay safe.
Thx for all great tips. This info is helpful to everyone..
How to wind the plunger by using 12v???
I have seen some comments that disconnecting the plug to do that activates the service light. Is that true?
@@markhooper9267 Not true. To get the plug off the motor, slide a thin screwdriver upwards against the body of the connector to release the clip.
I did this job too a short while ago, but didn't want to deal with removing the motor. What we did is disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, then apply negative 12v to the plug on the motor. You have to watch the motor to see what direction the piston is moving. If it's still moving out, then reverse the leads. Once it screws all the way back in (you can hear a different sound if you listen closely), and then you're done. Now you're not having to replace the seal, Torx, etc. which also saves time, $, and trouble, especially if you live in a very remote area like me, with an hour travel time to my nearest Autozone
Thanks for sharing the excellent video. Removing the electric parking brake motor assembly seems to be a common DYI practice on many modern cars. However I ended up reversing the electric parking brake using a 9V battery and it worked out very well, so wanted to share that here. I fabbed up two wires with yellow female blade connectors. Then attached the wires to the two flat connectors on the motor. I then set a bit of tension on the piston with the brake piston compressor and held the wires onto the 9V battery. It was easy to tell if the motor was going in the wrong direction, and then just reversed the wires on the battery.
Will this stop the parking brake warning light from having to be reset ?
@@chuckmckee2741 I don't know. I can't recall if the brake warning light was on. I could have replaced the pads before the warning light came on. Either way, you must reverse the electric parking brake one way or another when installing new pads.
Finally did this job. Video was very helpful but some comments talk about using an external battery to activate the parking brake so you can compress the piston. The problem with that method is you have to know which way the motor is turning. If you turn too much in the wrong direction it is very difficult to fix. One side worked well for me; the other I must have crossed the wires. Next time I would do it the way the video shows and just remove the motor.
You really should have cleaned and greased the slider bolts while you were at it, but a good video, thanks.
He did 95% of brake job.
Still learning....
How do you get the slider bolts out?
@@dcapobres
Hi, once the calipers are stripped down you can see the slider bolts one at the top one at the bottom both have rubber bellows around them, just pull them out and clean both bolts and holes out and give the bolts just a smear of grease on the bolts and reassemble, I use a drill bit to screw round and bring all the old grease and rust out of the hole.
Have you figured out that it's easier to open the bleeder screw while your depressing the piston than having to remove fluid from the reservoir yet? It also puts cleaner fluid back into the caliper and gets rid of the old acidic fluid making for a better brake job. Of course the best thing would be a complete flush of the system but very few people would know how to do that or have the correct tools. If you were doing a front break job just think of all that oil acidic fluid being pushed back up onto the ABS system. I wouldn't want to have to replace it. Just a thought of preventative wisdom.
This is an excellent video and very informative. I have been replacing brake pads for years but never replaced brake pads on a vehicle with EPB before. This video made it so easy. Thank you and best wishes from Ireland.
I love your videos. Been a volvo S80 owner for 3 weeks now. I did my rear brakes today. I used a 9 volt battery with two wires to reset the parking brake. Saved me from having to remove the electric motor. If the piston starts moving out you just swap the wires around on the 9 volt battery. Made quick work of the job.
Where do you attach the two wires to?
Were does battery go
@@markrichardevans5011 I did it 2 weeks ago. Just detach the harness and there are only 2 prongs. For mine to DETRACT the EPB the positive of the 9v goes on the left prong and the ground goes on the prong to the right
Good idea!
Did exactly the same thing yesterday.
I like the way your assistant is making their voice heard !😃
that wasn't his assistant,that was his boss.
Nice video! A small tip the next time you mount new discs: clean your hub very well with a wirebrush. If you don't clean the hub you'll risk the disc is not mounted flat and then the disc wobbles....
+Sailor X good one.thx
You did an excellent job with the amount of rust. I am a BMW tech, but had a volvo, wanted to familiarize myself with the EPB on Volvo, great job! Thanks
The video quality is glorious.
Really well done.
Bra jobbat . Hjälpte mig.
Always Torque down the bolts on brakes- especially front!
T50 torx is 35nm
15mm bolt is 110nm
13mm bolt is 35nm
If not using new bolts apply thread lock as per color on existing
Cheers
You should paint the calipers with anticorrosive paint to prevent the rust because this car is with few years and change the brake hose rust or paint the metal parts of the brake hose for the same problem.nice video and congratulations from Spain,my english is bad,sorry.
Thanks for uploading how to do that. But when I change I always clean new discs with breakcleaner 😀
I saw if you have the Vida system that you can put the rear brakes in service mode. This would bypass removing the motor. When complete you need to remember to remove the service mode in Vida
Don't follow this video - as is noted below, it is way easier/safer if you wind back the electronic parking brake with a 9V battery rather than removing it (and risking damaging it). See this video: ruclips.net/video/8y54DKRHlAo/видео.html
I followed that procedure and it was really easy to push back the piston. I was able to do it with light pressure from a C-clamp. I actually used a 12V, 1 amp power supply (old cell charger) to wind back the piston.
do you remove the electric motor just because you use the g clamp? Will the piston retract if I were to use a normal piston rewind tool?
You have to remove the motor or use 12V battery to unwind the piston
I was in the middle of the rear brakes, thinking they would be as easy as the fronts, but no! So I came here and you presented it exactly like I needed. Thank you!!!
Glad the video helped!
*Love the Quality, how did I miss this Channel!!!*
Very nice and useful video.
Very good editing, info on the parts numbers, image quality...
Carry on!
You just save me 150 pounds
You are the best!=D> =D> =D>
This is actually a excellent video. I followed you all the way through. Finished my job in half the time. LOVE the child saying mama several times. You sir are a great asset.
Hello, did you put the electronic handbrake into service mode in VIDA before replacing or did you only follow steps from video? Because I got info that hand brake must be in service mode before replacing and I am trying to find the way how to do it without VIDA. Thank you for help. Greetings Michal.
I did not have Vida at that moment. You can use 12 V battery to unwind the motors
Great video! I've owned 7 Volvos over the past 37 years. I love working on them when I can. I appreciate your videos!
7! That's a lot!
You are an excellent teacher for us!!!
I have a D5 185 2009 and yours videos are perfect!!!
You can propose a video of turbo actuator because a lot of people have the same problems and they think its necessary to replace all the turbo 🤦♂️... its a mistake because in 80% of time its only actuator!!
Thanks for all!!!
nice video, only one advice, don't forget to check, clean and grease the caliper slide pins, because that could be a mayor problem
Many thanks for a very informative video. Your video gave me the confidence to tackle the replacement of my xc60 rear brake pads and discs. The problem I came across was I could not undo one of the 30 torx head bolts holding the motor on, so I used a 12 volt adapter to wind the motor back, this worked well and overcame a big problem and proved a simple and effective way. I did not have a large enough G clamp to compress the piston back but I found that the use a motorcycle tyre lever and piece of timber, together with some strong levering enabled the piston to fully retract although I did bolt the caliper on to one fixing to give a better leverage. I did have some difficulty getting good access to the 15mm bolts due to the electric motor being in position but I used a knuckle joint to overcome this. My xc60 had covered 41,000 miles and one side had heavier worn pads than the other although both discs had worn to their minimum thickness. Again Many Thanks.
could you explain how you connected stuff to wind the motor back? Planning on doing this job tomorrow
Это только место ржавое или мед краской покрашено ? Давай на русском! .материал.
Good tips i used 9V Battery metod all went well. Thank you. (Finland viewer). V70 2011.
Good day Youri, great instruction and superb quality. Today I will change my S80 rear breaks and disks. Piece of cake thanx to you.
Much appreciated mate, regards from Volvo country 👊
Hello to Sweden!
Thank you for this video. I'm helping a friend with their XC60 and I was wondering how to get around the EPB. Thank you for showing us!
Great video, I use the 12volt method to rewind,and that worked just fine.Also, I didnt remove the bracket which holds the caliper,the disc can be removed without dissasembling this bracket, give it a try.
Wow. Thx for the tipnonbthe bracket. I will try next time.
Thank you! I love how you kept everything brushed and clean. I did this today on a Volvo 2011 XC60. I used a hint from the comments and used a small 9V battery with 2 alligator clips to retract the electric parking brake, instead of the disassembly and manual rotation in the video. Squeeze very gently with the c-clamp, run the 9V battery for 5-10 seconds, and repeat until both are fully in and/or gently stall out. This is a minor point. Thanks again for a great video!
Next time I will use the battery method as well. Thx
Isn’t there a service mode in VIDA/DICE that retracts the electric parking brake?
@@dcapobres Just put 12 volts on el engine . One position+it gonna brake. Change the wires each other + and it gonna unbrake. 7-12 second are enough. Then just press the piston.
Большое спасибо за пост. Я шаг за шагом поменял задние на XC60, и все работает.
Just completed same job on my XC60. Really helpful video. Thanks.
You dont have to remove the caliper bracket in order to change the rotor btw ;)
Nice and clear. This is very similar to the brakes on the Landrover Discovery Sport that also has an EPB. Here’s that job. ruclips.net/video/0L7M6tg_rug/видео.html
YOU DID NOT CLEAN AND LUBRICATE THE SLIDE ASSEMBLY, BIG MISTAKE THE SLIDE CAN JAM AND YOUR BRAKES WILL LOCK AND OVERHEAT
Thx for the feedback. It will be valuable here. Don't forget I am DIY guy.
Dat feeling when you realize that you could have driven 15` km more before changing :D
Great Video, thanks, I started to replace the brake pads and got lost when trying to push the brake piston back. Good explanation for the electronic parking brakes.
Can I just say, whatever car you have, always pump the brake pedal after installing new brake pads. You have had to push the calliper piston back into the calliper in order to make room for the new thicker pads. Pumping the brake pedal after you finish the job will ensure the calliper piston moves and comes into contact with the brake pad. If you fail to do this, you will drive down the road and when you come to brake for a junction say, your pedal will go down to the floor. NO BRAKES. PANIC.
Also, when I'm working on my car brakes or steering and suspension, I always renew on BOTH sides to ensure even balance.
I don't know where I would be without your videos. You keep my wife safely moving on the road. Thank you so much.
Awesome video Sir. Thank you so much!! I'm ready to give it a go this weekend.
Easy job. Feel confident
Does anyone know a good manual or website for torque specs and other general info? (I use a bently book for my bmw)
Thanks
For WHEEL torque specs, the discount tire guys have a quick guide that I use. www.discounttiredirect.com/learn/wheel-torque
Thanks a lot , this worked perfectly for me. The dealer wanted 600 bucks and we did it ourselves for $50 .
just did this yesterday
if you have the right tools and have loosened up the bolts you can do both sides in about 40 min
the trick on the caliper is to fully wind in the take up screw and then press in the piston
we lubricated under the duct covers with silicon spray grease to ease the return of the piston so it doesnt grip and bugger up the rear discs which is a common fault on these cars
the front brake is really weird as its needed to split the caliper to change the pads
you need a really good torx bit to release the 4 screws and a m7 uncommon size allen key to undo the guide pins
Спасибо за ваши информативные видео, помогает в обслуживании нашей машинки.
do not forgot and take out the gliding pins for cleaning that is making brake problems, the oke does not slide
You do great job!!!! Why didn't you check that the caliper piston is clean and lubricate it? Especially on the driver's side.
Regards from Poland 👍
I finished my rears in record time! Thanks for your video, it really helped.
+Doogie G Excellent.
Just did the rear brakes on my sister's S60 using this video as a guide. Everything went smoothly and works great. Thank you!
Nice!
So it was the same on the s60? I'm changing brakes on my V60 this weekend so I'm curious :)
MajorDork70 yes, everything seemed exactly the same. If I didn’t had to jack up the car and take the wheels off the job would’ve only taken five minutes per wheel.
Do you need to mess with the EPB even if you are just replacing pads? Or can you just remove caliper with e brake attached and replace pads - then put caliper back on ?
You have to JUMP the EPB Motor, there is no need to take it out. If you don't jump it to retract, it's really tight during pad insert. Use a 12V DC or 9V DC and jump it.
Jump it like this: ruclips.net/video/8y54DKRHlAo/видео.html
고맙습니다 이 영상을 보고 2010년 s80의 브레이크패드를 교체했습니다
Thanks. Worked for my 2105 XC60. Removed motor and wound it back as you mentioned. Then cycled e-brake three times, no flashing lights on dashboard. All is good.
Use the old brake pad between piston and the G-clamp , that way you won't damage anything. also open the bleed screw to let the oil out instead of sending it back to MC. than for sharing.
+Rich X Great tip. Thx
Wrong, do not open the bleed screw unless you plan on bleeding the brakes
@@tmillner0682 if we don"t open the bleeder screw and let "dirty"fluid out, it will be pushed in to the system. ?any reason why this should NOT be done. thank you
@@seshachary5580 if you're willing to bleed the brakes then it won't hurt to do that. But if there is fluid that is "dirty" it is dirty throughout the entire braking system, not just the caliper. So you would need to flush and replace all fluid in that case. Brake fluid brakes down over time, reducing its boiling point, that's why most manufacturers recommend replacing every few years. But if you're just doing brakes no need to purge any fluid
@@volvosweden Hi, another tip if I may, 10:21 after brushing the rust off apply some lube then put the metal clips and apply some lube to the clips as you did. This way the rust under the metal clips won't push the clips up and cause uneven wear.
600 euros at Volvo Dealership...
Get Zimmerman or Brembo with akebono pads. Cheaper
I was concerned about how the parking brake would be "reset" back to a home position after the entire brake motor mechanism was backed off and new brake pads were put in and the entire assembly was re-installed. You explained it perfectly! Thanks!
Great video, thanks. Might depend on the model, but generally do NOT have to remove the main caliper bracket (those two red lock title bolts) to replace rotor. Since there are no lug studs, the rotors easily pivot out from under the piston bracket. At least on my 2014 S60. Saves a TON of time. Same on front - do NOT split the caliper with the 4 Torx bolts - seems to cause more problems than its worth. Remove teh two bolts under the plastic caps, swap pads and rotor and you’re done.
Michael, I have the same 2014 S60 T5 59k miles. My 2nd Volvo. Had my brake pads & rotors replaced by a mechanic last week & they couldn’t seem to figure out why the brake pedal seems soft, like it goes too low to the floor. Then they replaced my master cylinder which I don’t believe it needed to be. They bled them, then decided to replace the vacuum booster line. Still the same. They had my car for two weeks & I finally decided to take it to a mechanic familiar with European cars. So the new mechanic, He bled them & said the rear brakes have air trapped in the line that after idk how much brake fluid he went thru but told me he thinks the other shop messed up my abs system & added that his computer didn’t read the abs system. Now I have to take it the dealer. After watching these videos though I’m learning a lot about the break system for my car. Fingers crossed I can get them fixed without getting ripped off 🤦♀️
@@sherrygzen did you ever figure out what it was?
@@huntermitchell-yh9fo Took it to the dealer that “has a protocol” I was told after two weeks of my car being there, they replaced the master cylinder again & claimed it was not installed properly by the previous mechanic,replaced the booster again (still the same problem) and finally the abs pump they wanted to charge me $3000 just for a new part or $300 for an old beater part from a junk yard.
Why didn’t they just replace the abs pump in the beginning? Got me!! $3800 later and an old abs pump seemed to solve the problem but what a rip off. I think it’s important to take a European car to a mechanic that knows European cars. Period
Молодец, спасибо! Всё подробно и наглядно. Тоже очень люблю Volvo и предпочитаю по-возможности что-то делать сам, т.к. живу в США, а с руками и головами здесь есть проблемы.
BECAUSE OF YOU I DID MINE ON MY OWN ...THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR SHARING YOUR HOW TOO ...NEVER MIND THE NOISE!!/ HATERS
Great upload, thanks for sharing! The shop quoted me half a fortune for this job. I followed the exact procedure on my V60 -12 today and got the job done in a jiffy plus saved a bundle!
+Jenzino Swe Nice! Glad to help
Excellent video guide and in HD too! I would add using anti-seize on the hub-disc mating surface prior to installation and lubricate the caliper sliding pins. Using torque wrench to tighten all the bolts (including tyres) could result in more brake feel and performance.
+Amir S thx for the tips...
Je voudrais savoir comme,changer la panne à l'huile de ma volvo 2003 s40 moteur 1,9
I agree. I had to whack a wheel off the rotor on a Buick was rusted and fused. North East US is the problem area where salt kills cars w rust.
I am also tempted to reuse outer brake pads from his car. They r good as new and their surface looked even
Thank you for your videos. I have a 2009 xc70 and you videos are a great guide for the essential maintenance jobs to keep her healthy
Thank you thank you. Saved $300 in Orlando Fl. No code or errors in 2017 cx90. Good help. Love to hear the baby in the back ground.
Thanks a lot for the videos. Couple of questions:
Q1: Where did you get the parts from (I live in Toronto area) ?
Q2: Is it okay to get aftermarket rotors/pads for my 2012 XC60 ?
Thanks again!
+Anil Sharma I got everything from Volvo dealer in Winnipeg.
I recommend original parts.
Thx!
Much better than any other video that I have seen. Thank you!
Thank you. Soon front brakes will be done. Will be a detailed video on that.
@@volvosweden looking forward
Man, do you get a discount on dealer parts or something? I usually find it just as effective to go direct to the companies that make the parts for the manufacturer (and a lot cheaper).
Yeah. I just go aftermarket because it's hard to find the manufacture parts in Australia. Cause nothing's made here.
Hello,
Im doing a similar job on a Passat. My EPB motor died on one side so im changing it. I was told from some guy to also rewind the other side to be on the safe side regarding even brake pressure on both sides. He also pointed out that the "reset" of the EPB motor should be done before starting the car. Do you think that makes any sense?
One tip, always clean you're brand new brakediscs with alcohol or brakeclean, because the manifactures sometime coat them with an thin oilfilm to provent rust :)
These dont have to. They are in bags for that purpose.
Thank you for this video, I'm just wondering why you turned the pistons out "clockwise" and then pushed them back with the tensioner.
Wouldn't it be easier to turn the pistons counterclockwise? Or simply turn back with 12V voltage?
Thank you, greatings from Romania
I've read that there is a simple way: disconnect the plug from the parking brake motor and apply a voltage of 12V, at least 5A.
You have to be careful with the piston, it's best to protect it by putting a hammer between it, in case of a miss with polarization. Then the piston will stop on the hammer, you need to change the polarity.
The only question is whether the car's computer does not count the number of engine revolutions.???
Hi, what's the link between Break and rpm down ( than 2000 rpm to 900 rpm )
None
Its used by Volvo-Cars to heat up the catalysator on their petrol-engines.
Once the cat is heated up it goes down to 900 rpm (idle).
Used to reduce CO2-emissions
Just one thing remove the sliders and lubricate them with silicone if they seize the disks will warp. They will warp in very little time and you will be replacing the disks to fix the pulsating
Thanks for the video. I am doing mine on my V60 this weekend after having done it a few years ago. Some tips in here I would have found useful back then, but will use now. One point, I didn't see you put copper grease on the back of the pads, why was this. It prevents brake squeal later on.
Old brake discs make excellent weights for things like holding down tarps and other uses. I know one guy that uses them to make lighting that won’t tip over.
If you've got old brake fluid don't just push it back into the system by compressing the piston. Loosen the bleed valve first, to push the old fluid out, bleed the system later after replacing pads/discs. Not doing this results in pushing all the stale/dirty/contaminated fluid, that resides near the piston (seals always let some contaminants in) back into the system where it might damage/block pumps and valves. You'll notice this by seeing dirt floating in the reservoir.
+0YouCanCallMeAl0 Good tip. I have replaced the brake fluid completely. There is a video on my channel.
I have a 2009 xc70 AWD D5 auto.
I have a problem with the steering going heavy during parking or 3 point turning.
I have renewed the reservoir and fluid. The rack makes no noise at all. The steering goes back to normal if you lift the engine revs from tick over speed. I’ve checked tyre pressure. It’s as it should be. On loose gravel it’s fine. My steering pump has 2 belts running on it. I cannot find an equivalent pump on eBay.
It seems no one has seen this problem before. I find this hard to believe.
My motor and/ or caliper has seized super tight, so I cannot remove the caliper. Any tips on how to get it out?
Replacing the rear pads on my wife's 2008 V70 this weekend. Great tips below about retracting the EPB motor. 9v batt and clip leads. Wow, that's a lot of corrosion under that car. Thanks for the video.
Good video! But why do electronic parking brakes even exist?
Did you order new bolts or did they come with the brakes?
Come with
You need Volvo Dice device. Then you can let the brake engine back. eBay Dice cost 70$ and is it worth it to have. Never know when you need read error codes.
+Su Lu I bought everything from my Volvo dealer.
eBay link: www.ebay.com/itm/Newest-2014D-Professional-Vida-Dice-For-VOLVO-VIDA-DICE-Scanner-Diagnostic-Tool-/222305298719?hash=item33c26da91f:g:sJMAAOSwMVdYHZat&item=222305298719&vxp=mtr
Did you have to remove the motor? You know you can use a 9 v battery and a pair of wires to return the motor back to in position, just so you know. Thank you
Здравствуйте,а есть может комбинация какая чтоб нажать определенные кнопки и моторчики электро ручника сами стали в сервисное положение,и не крутить болт поршня суппорта в ручную?
Isn't there a section in VIDA where you can retract the piston with a command?
I was trying to find someone that will actually make this remark. And not only vida, there are generic diagnostic equipment that cand do that for most cars with electric breaking.
Hi,
Thank you for posting. I've just done mine following your video. There was no grease on the discs, the was however some paint residue.
The breakes feel a bit spongie though.. it could be me being a bit paranoid. Is it necessary to bleed the brakes?
Thank you!
Mine wont fully retract. Annoying ðash warning and chime. Tried to engage and disengage sevrral times but still stuck.
omg i have spent the day calling local garages (UK) to be told repeatedly you have to get this done at a main dealer as only they can release the parking break with their computer.... annoying.
If you are looking for a upgrade on the front brakes the 336mm from a S80 V8 are bolt on and works great. You need 18" rims. forumbilder.se/FA3PF/img-2093
A fantastic video. Thank you very much for making such an excellent video
Nice video! Where did you order the original Volvo parts?
I removed the 2 bolts from the caliper but the thing was still rock solid and I couldn't get it off? Why is this please?
I like your dual purpose hammer socket.
You could always buy the tool intended for moving the caliper back into the open position, then neither battery method or removing the motor would be an issue.
Super vidéo, thank you.
Do you know if it is the same work for a volvo xc90 2017?
Its better to use service mode on vida or much easy way to disconnect battery and use 12v charger to move motor back, before disconnect battery, handbrake should be on and after that u can release brake with charger to move back brake piston and after change disc or just brake pads, it's enough to move pisto to position close, and after reconnecting battery is no error and u don't need to remove electric brake motor
Sad to see how the salt in Canada affects the cars underbody, it’s the same in the UK but not quite as bad . I have tried everything but the salt eventually gets its job done 😩
The sticker on the box is 'Made in Sweden' :-)))
So, thank you fot your videos from France