The video demonstrates the build process of the Robak version v2.0. We now have an upgraded v2.2 available. While much of the process remains the same, you'll notice some changes in the parts during the assembly of this latest version. To guide you through these updates, I've created an interactive document detailing the design changes and offering additional tips. Link in the description.
Jestem pod wrażeniem dopracowania modelu oraz całej dokumentacji. Jak tylko znajdę chwilę z pewnością skorzystam z tego DIY. Powodzenia w przyszłych projektach!
Bardzo dziękuję! 😀 Projekt chyba powoli dojrzewa, nie ma już radykalnych zmian, więc to dobry moment na rozpoczęcie budowania. Szacun dla wszystkich, którzy testowali i pomagali mi ulepszać pierwsze wersje. 💪 Jak teraz patrzę na swoje stare filmiki to uśmiecham się pod nosem 😄
Absolutely, a little give in the material helps with taking hits without breaking. With larger printers, we can get the chassis as one piece, which increases the sturdiness without sacrificing the flex where it's needed.
Thanks! I couldn't find anything about anti duck and dive, is it related to the steering geometry? :) Bump steer is noticeable, I didn't know before what such an effect is called, maybe I can somehow fix it. Ackerman angle is already implemented. Caster and camber is set to neutral by design - probably not optimal but maybe as you said I should spend some time to find a better setup. So much to do and so little time :D
I have done tarmo4, open truggy, non of them strong as robak v1. All of them are weak and keep break in arm. Only your robak v1 survive. Gonna ask you about this v2 the arm are slimmer than v1, after your test are v2 arm strong enough as v1?
very very nice to see creativity. I'm a big fan of model cars. Think you did great here, was an enjoyable video to watch. Steering geometry looks great, chassis in two halves, I think will separate by themselves if you don't add more bracing! Are those FTX differentials? I use them a lot! Was laughing to myself when I saw the motor position - you printed a new top brace to avoid the wires..I too know the pain of clearance, but I'd have spin the motor round not made a big gap for the wires. All the same, a better, braver, bolder build than I have made myself, so please take that as a compliment 👍🍺🇬🇧
Hi, just watched one of your video to see what FTX is 😃. Great content BTW I'll come back for more :) For Robak I'm using HSP parts - diff name is HSP 02024. And yes... there must be a weakest link somewhere 😃If it breaks I'll upgrade it like I've done with the other parts. This process never ends. Regarding that top brace cutout I have now doubted. Was almost sure I tried rotating the motor and the wires didn't fit under the body. On the other hand I'm not seeing many people using this cutout as I do. I'll check it once again. Thanks! 🍺
@@robaki-dev Meant to reply sooner, it is really good to see someone who enjoys building stuff. I probably enjoy building and modding more than the driving, but it's all good. A great hobby to bring people together 👍🍺🇬🇧
Hi, I was looking at trying to design an RC car aswell although I'm very new to this. Did you buy the parts and measure them before designing around them or did you just work off of online datasheets. For example, I was looking at the HSP drive shaft and I could not find the radii for where it connects to the wheel at 2:30 in the vid, the Aliexpress page for them likewise has no information on it except stating it was suitable for 1/10 size RC cars, I'm not sure if there is a standard size. Would appreciate your help and love your video.
Hey, thanks! The performance of the car is only as good as the quality of the assembly and materials. It's hard to get everything right on the first try, but after a few iterations, you can have a very capable basher with this design.
Always using those and can never have enough! Had no idea they were also called "eurorack slider nuts". Makes sense, they've got the same specs as M3 DIN 562. Super cool!
who used this cars design to compete in technoxian WRC competition. AAp SABKO shubhkamnayee... aur steering joint keliye 10X15X4 ka bearing milna namunkin hai. 😂😂😂😂
Thanks! It's the most time-consuming part of the build process. We've all been there :) Maybe someday I'll find a more convenient way of ordering parts🤔
such a nice simple chassis, do you think you can modify it with a narrower wheel track and use a Lexan Body like a rally car or something? I think it would also be a winner!
As the carrier hubs go inside the rim the minimum rim inner diameter is around 2.5" - determined by the height of carrier hubs. With such big wheels there is no room to make the wheel track narrower unfortunately :( I know that some truck bodies will fit after minor modifications.
Thanks for pointing that out; I've removed the link. I couldn't find any suitable silicone oil over 50k cSt on AliExpress. Based on my experience, it's easiest to find at local hobby stores.
Thanks! It’s reliable until you crash it, which is very likely to happen. Sometimes printed parts break while bashing so it’s recommended to have a 3D printer at home to fix it quickly. The most common part that breaks is shock tower and steering blocks. It would be great if those are printed in nylon or similar. The durability of the metal drive components is impacted by the quality of the assembly and 3D printer accuracy. Gear mesh, clereances etc. It’s hard to get it right at the first time but the Robak is a more of a project to develop and repair than make it and forget it😉
Have you considered creating and offering the Bill of Materials as a digital product? Would make a killer DIY kit for Christmas and Birthdays! Also I dream of adding an RPI + camera for semi-autonomous capabilities. Food for thought!
Kits are available from @rcprinter, who prepares them based on the original BOM for various 3D printed RC vehicles. Printed parts are not available for purchase, as owning a 3D printer is highly recommended. The main advantage of this project is the ability to reprint parts at home, so you don't need to buy new ones when they break. I gave one of the cars to a young relative who doesn't have a 3D printer. No worries though, I've got them covered with a lifetime of help with the parts they need. 😄 I recently experimented with a BeagleBoneBlue SBC with Ardupilot and GPS installed and the waypoint navigation worked wonderfully. However, I've temporarily removed it due to the snowy conditions here, as I'm concerned about the electronics 😀. On the Discord channel, I've noticed some attempts at integrating FPV cameras, which is quite interesting. Additionally, there's a reduction gearbox modification available on Printables that I'm eager to test soon to enhance climbing capabilities. I'm really fond of the Robak community and its innovative spirit. ☺️
It's v2.0.0 in the video. Differential case was updated in v2.1.0. Older files are available on thingiverse, but I recommend downloading the latest version.
AMIGO PARABÉNS POR ESSE PROJETO, E POR DISPONIBILIZAR PARA QUE PESSOAS COMO EU, POSSA MONTAR SEU RC. GOSTARIA DE SABER ONDE ESTAR A RELAÇÃO DAS PEÇAS COMO POR EXEMPLO OS ROLAMENTOS E OUTROS. VC TERIA O LINK ? FRIEND CONGRATULATIONS FOR THIS PROJECT, AND FOR MAKING IT AVAILABLE SO THAT PEOPLE LIKE ME CAN BUILD THEIR RC. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHERE THE LIST OF THE PARTS ARE SUCH AS THE BEARINGS AND OTHERS. DO YOU HAVE THE LINK?
Thank you! Non printed parts list is available here: github.com/robaki-dev/robak/blob/main/BOM.csv direct links to aliexpress offers are available on my discord - link in the description :)
Thanks! Most parts are from PCTG which I use interchangeably with PETG and PLA+. PA12+GF for parts that need extra strength and thermal resistance (shock towers and motor plate) and pure PA12 for ultimate impact resistance (steering hubs). Full list of parts and materials is here github.com/robaki-dev/robak/blob/main/3DPartsList.csv
Thanks! HSP 108004 from aliexpress. Now I recommend upgrading as the cheap HSP shocks leak and the stock spring is too soft. Any 100mm shock absorbers should work. E.g. Injora 100mm Aluminum Shock Absorber
Yes. However, there is diff fluid inside which change diff's performance. Don't quote me on that but thick enough fluid can make the open differential behave like a limited slip diff.
Ideally, the motor mount should be made of the most rigid material possible (metal). This will ensure a constant gap between the spur and the pinion and thereby extend the life (mileage) of the pinion.@@robaki-dev
@@user-fj4fr9ns9x Totally agree, if only my printer could print metal or diamond! At the time, PA12+GF was the most rigid material I had available, capable of handling temperatures above 60°C without melting. The loose fit on the shaft and spur gear cause much more wobble. Guess I should fix that first, but the setup is still good enough to provide many hours of enjoyable driving.
Hi, I don't plan on making such video for now. I've uploaded an interactive model with an explode function which you may find helpful. Link is in the description.
Crashes are inevitable when you push the speed, and yep, parts will break. But, if the car is built correctly, with 3D printed parts that match the design tolerances, using the right settings and materials, it can absolutely handle jumps. It's all about finding the right balance between being strong and not too heavy, so it's tough where it needs to be without breaking the bank on metal drivetrain parts. Every build is unique. Some folks get better results than others. There's always room for improvement, and most of us keep tweaking our builds to make them as good as they can be. It's a process of iteration, finding what works best for your specific needs and driving style.
hi, here's the direct link: media.printables.com/media/prints/119715/other_files/1162656_a4efb73c-b520-41e2-aa02-a17429d86202/hingepinsdrawing.pdf You can also find the pdf in the release zip package
There are many non printed parts used in this design. For example the metal drivetrain. The ultimate build is going to combine many fabrication techniques like cnc machining. At the moment I'm only capable of 3D printing parts 😄
The video demonstrates the build process of the Robak version v2.0. We now have an upgraded v2.2 available. While much of the process remains the same, you'll notice some changes in the parts during the assembly of this latest version. To guide you through these updates, I've created an interactive document detailing the design changes and offering additional tips. Link in the description.
Did u fill the differential with ca glue? Edit: Stupid question sorry that musta been grease
@@98f5 It's thick silicone oil used for viscous coupling inside the differential to achieve kind of limited slip differential (LSD) effect.
CVD传动轴是长长的
1:47 the first person i see taking advantage of square nuts! Thank you 😁.
@robaki Thank you for the taking the time to build and respond to comments. People like you enhance the maker community!
Thanks Scott! The community is awesome, I learned a lot from them
robak means bug in Polish language 😂
Jestem pod wrażeniem dopracowania modelu oraz całej dokumentacji. Jak tylko znajdę chwilę z pewnością skorzystam z tego DIY. Powodzenia w przyszłych projektach!
Bardzo dziękuję! 😀 Projekt chyba powoli dojrzewa, nie ma już radykalnych zmian, więc to dobry moment na rozpoczęcie budowania. Szacun dla wszystkich, którzy testowali i pomagali mi ulepszać pierwsze wersje. 💪 Jak teraz patrzę na swoje stare filmiki to uśmiecham się pod nosem 😄
Very beautifully designed and built, amazing video making!
thanks!
Really high quality shots, great job!
Thanks! 💪
Like the fact you use screws with nuts to hold things together
Nice! Danke für die gute Anleitung, vielleicht baue ich es mir nach... 👍
Reminds me of a similar tc3 by associate project I did years ago. Man, fpv that bad boy! It looks like it can go through anything. Lol
I have to do this someday. Already seen people mounting FPV systems on the Robak. It looked like fun :)
That unsupported chassis that's just a 2 wobbly bits of flat plastic 😱
Absolutely, a little give in the material helps with taking hits without breaking. With larger printers, we can get the chassis as one piece, which increases the sturdiness without sacrificing the flex where it's needed.
Very nice. Now you need to learn about anti duck and dive, Caster, Camber Ackerman angel and bump steer.
Thanks! I couldn't find anything about anti duck and dive, is it related to the steering geometry? :) Bump steer is noticeable, I didn't know before what such an effect is called, maybe I can somehow fix it. Ackerman angle is already implemented. Caster and camber is set to neutral by design - probably not optimal but maybe as you said I should spend some time to find a better setup. So much to do and so little time :D
I wish I had a 3d printer too 😃. Great job keep it up
thanks!
Nice Worm! :)
Thanks Ziomal!😉
lay a spare tire over the wingnuts on the top
Yea bro finally improvement from version1. Im gonna make this 2nd one
I have done tarmo4, open truggy, non of them strong as robak v1. All of them are weak and keep break in arm. Only your robak v1 survive. Gonna ask you about this v2 the arm are slimmer than v1, after your test are v2 arm strong enough as v1?
Beautiful thought work went into the 3d printing of these.
Thanks! Have fun :)
very very nice to see creativity. I'm a big fan of model cars. Think you did great here, was an enjoyable video to watch. Steering geometry looks great, chassis in two halves, I think will separate by themselves if you don't add more bracing!
Are those FTX differentials? I use them a lot!
Was laughing to myself when I saw the motor position - you printed a new top brace to avoid the wires..I too know the pain of clearance, but I'd have spin the motor round not made a big gap for the wires.
All the same, a better, braver, bolder build than I have made myself, so please take that as a compliment 👍🍺🇬🇧
Hi, just watched one of your video to see what FTX is 😃. Great content BTW I'll come back for more :) For Robak I'm using HSP parts - diff name is HSP 02024. And yes... there must be a weakest link somewhere 😃If it breaks I'll upgrade it like I've done with the other parts. This process never ends. Regarding that top brace cutout I have now doubted. Was almost sure I tried rotating the motor and the wires didn't fit under the body. On the other hand I'm not seeing many people using this cutout as I do. I'll check it once again. Thanks! 🍺
@@robaki-dev Meant to reply sooner, it is really good to see someone who enjoys building stuff. I probably enjoy building and modding more than the driving, but it's all good. A great hobby to bring people together 👍🍺🇬🇧
that yourube free music library ahh music actually kinda fire
Ooo Ignaś już czeka :D
Good Robak2 my friend 👍
Hi, I was looking at trying to design an RC car aswell although I'm very new to this. Did you buy the parts and measure them before designing around them or did you just work off of online datasheets. For example, I was looking at the HSP drive shaft and I could not find the radii for where it connects to the wheel at 2:30 in the vid, the Aliexpress page for them likewise has no information on it except stating it was suitable for 1/10 size RC cars, I'm not sure if there is a standard size. Would appreciate your help and love your video.
@14:11 Oof... That flex in the Bottom Plate _already_ without having _any_ load on the Steering Components 😑 Back to the Drawing Board I'd say 😏
This happens when the carrier hub bolts are overtightened. Later, I adjusted them to the right tension, and the steering feels smooth again. 👍
Hey man, cool looking truggy. How is the durability? Would it be a good bashwr? Or juat for speedruns and not to be abused much?
Hey, thanks! The performance of the car is only as good as the quality of the assembly and materials. It's hard to get everything right on the first try, but after a few iterations, you can have a very capable basher with this design.
Good job my friend 👍🤗😍
Thanks!
Very nicely done ✔️ 👌
Thanks!
cvd是好长的 是撒子cvd
Just found a use for all my extra eurorack slider nuts
Always using those and can never have enough! Had no idea they were also called "eurorack slider nuts". Makes sense, they've got the same specs as M3 DIN 562. Super cool!
So satisfying
thanks!
who used this cars design to compete in technoxian WRC competition. AAp SABKO shubhkamnayee... aur steering joint keliye 10X15X4 ka bearing milna namunkin hai. 😂😂😂😂
You are fantastic!
It's very cool and I'm starting to build one. Anyway, what kind of LEDs did you use?
Thanks! It's Knog Plus LED
Love the project, but i just can't motivate myself to source the other items for the BOM 😑
Thanks! It's the most time-consuming part of the build process. We've all been there :) Maybe someday I'll find a more convenient way of ordering parts🤔
such a nice simple chassis, do you think you can modify it with a narrower wheel track and use a Lexan Body like a rally car or something? I think it would also be a winner!
As the carrier hubs go inside the rim the minimum rim inner diameter is around 2.5" - determined by the height of carrier hubs. With such big wheels there is no room to make the wheel track narrower unfortunately :( I know that some truck bodies will fit after minor modifications.
@@robaki-dev then you have an excuse for a Second chassis project 😁 I will still print it but it has a lot of potential,well done!
@robaki-dev, where I can find the silicone oil 80k cst for differential gears? The BOM list link to grease.
Thanks for pointing that out; I've removed the link. I couldn't find any suitable silicone oil over 50k cSt on AliExpress. Based on my experience, it's easiest to find at local hobby stores.
very nice machine!!!!!!! thanks
Elegancko! 💪💪💪
You can watch my content to this is my channel click on logo
Cool. Can we see how it runs?
Thanks! Have you seen my other videos already? :)
Wonderful job, well done
Thanks! 😊
Perfect bro
Thanks!
Reminds me of a tt01 e
why square nuts and not hexagonal?
nice shot
Thanks! Square nuts are easier to insert into the slot. Slots for square nuts are easier to design and faster to print :)
How reliable is it? Where are the weak point I should expect? And how much overall does it cost for the parts? Awesome built btw!
Thanks! It’s reliable until you crash it, which is very likely to happen. Sometimes printed parts break while bashing so it’s recommended to have a 3D printer at home to fix it quickly. The most common part that breaks is shock tower and steering blocks. It would be great if those are printed in nylon or similar. The durability of the metal drive components is impacted by the quality of the assembly and 3D printer accuracy. Gear mesh, clereances etc. It’s hard to get it right at the first time but the Robak is a more of a project to develop and repair than make it and forget it😉
very nice ~~ 👍👍😎👍👍
Thanks!
man i cant get all these parts , ali express doesnt ship to my country plus they are just too many and what if i order othe rones and they dont fit in
checkout kits from my friend rcprinter.com
Amazon has every thing you could want
What kind of screwdriver is that? It looks great!
Milwaukee 4932471599 - 9 in 1 Ratchet Multibit Driver-Hex 🙂
@@robaki-dev thank youuu
Nice video!
this is awesome 🤩
Thanks!
Ого, вообще красава! Есть видео с тестовым заездом?
нашел
I love this ❤
Thanks!
Have you considered creating and offering the Bill of Materials as a digital product? Would make a killer DIY kit for Christmas and Birthdays! Also I dream of adding an RPI + camera for semi-autonomous capabilities. Food for thought!
Kits are available from @rcprinter, who prepares them based on the original BOM for various 3D printed RC vehicles. Printed parts are not available for purchase, as owning a 3D printer is highly recommended. The main advantage of this project is the ability to reprint parts at home, so you don't need to buy new ones when they break. I gave one of the cars to a young relative who doesn't have a 3D printer. No worries though, I've got them covered with a lifetime of help with the parts they need. 😄
I recently experimented with a BeagleBoneBlue SBC with Ardupilot and GPS installed and the waypoint navigation worked wonderfully. However, I've temporarily removed it due to the snowy conditions here, as I'm concerned about the electronics 😀. On the Discord channel, I've noticed some attempts at integrating FPV cameras, which is quite interesting. Additionally, there's a reduction gearbox modification available on Printables that I'm eager to test soon to enhance climbing capabilities. I'm really fond of the Robak community and its innovative spirit. ☺️
why are the supplied differential cases different than those you assemble in the video? Also, may you please supply those stl files?
It's v2.0.0 in the video. Differential case was updated in v2.1.0. Older files are available on thingiverse, but I recommend downloading the latest version.
AMIGO PARABÉNS POR ESSE PROJETO, E POR DISPONIBILIZAR PARA QUE PESSOAS COMO EU, POSSA MONTAR SEU RC. GOSTARIA DE SABER ONDE ESTAR A RELAÇÃO DAS PEÇAS COMO POR EXEMPLO OS ROLAMENTOS E OUTROS. VC TERIA O LINK ?
FRIEND CONGRATULATIONS FOR THIS PROJECT, AND FOR MAKING IT AVAILABLE SO THAT PEOPLE LIKE ME CAN BUILD THEIR RC. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHERE THE LIST OF THE PARTS ARE SUCH AS THE BEARINGS AND OTHERS. DO YOU HAVE THE LINK?
Thank you! Non printed parts list is available here: github.com/robaki-dev/robak/blob/main/BOM.csv
direct links to aliexpress offers are available on my discord - link in the description :)
Cool
thanks!
Мені здається дорожче вийде ніж готову купити.
Yeah, it's an expensive hobby, but it's more about the journey and the skills you gain from building your own car than just comparing the costs.
Hi was wondering howuch was the total approximately
It’s around $400. Take a look at the bill of materials. Link in the description.
Hey I'm trying to build an rc car myself but on a budget of $250 can you tell me what the cost was for you?
around $300, you can save some money buying a used controller or even known brand used ESC+motor
Fantastic, what filament did you use?
Thanks! Most parts are from PCTG which I use interchangeably with PETG and PLA+. PA12+GF for parts that need extra strength and thermal resistance (shock towers and motor plate) and pure PA12 for ultimate impact resistance (steering hubs). Full list of parts and materials is here github.com/robaki-dev/robak/blob/main/3DPartsList.csv
Very cool build! Where did you get those shocks?
Thanks! HSP 108004 from aliexpress. Now I recommend upgrading as the cheap HSP shocks leak and the stock spring is too soft. Any 100mm shock absorbers should work. E.g. Injora 100mm Aluminum Shock Absorber
Buena máquina..
That is an awesome project!!Do you have the bill of materials for sharing?
Thanks! The BOM is available here: github.com/robaki-dev/robak/blob/main/BOM.csv
Bearing. How mm size bro
So these are open differentials?
Yes. However, there is diff fluid inside which change diff's performance. Don't quote me on that but thick enough fluid can make the open differential behave like a limited slip diff.
@@robaki-devlol I thought that was super glue making a "welded diff"
Z jakiej bazy części korzystałeś? Fajny projekt 💪
Dzięki! 💪 Części drukowane to Robak 2 na printables.com części mechaniczne to głównie HSP z aliexpress :)
Superb job! 👍🏼
thanks! 😉
Plastic motor mount ? =)))
it's nylon filled with fiber glass, why not?😀
Ideally, the motor mount should be made of the most rigid material possible (metal). This will ensure a constant gap between the spur and the pinion and thereby extend the life (mileage) of the pinion.@@robaki-dev
@@user-fj4fr9ns9x Totally agree, if only my printer could print metal or diamond! At the time, PA12+GF was the most rigid material I had available, capable of handling temperatures above 60°C without melting. The loose fit on the shaft and spur gear cause much more wobble. Guess I should fix that first, but the setup is still good enough to provide many hours of enjoyable driving.
A Volkswagen body is good for this
VW Baja Bug 👍
@@robaki-dev yes sir!!!! I hope I'm excited. to see it with the Baja Bug body, ❤️❤️❤️❤️
How long did it take to develop a footprint for the car?
The initial sketches for the car's design were created in 2020, and it has been evolving ever since.
when will the assembly instruction video (with the blueprint aka layout) be available?
Hi, I don't plan on making such video for now. I've uploaded an interactive model with an explode function which you may find helpful. Link is in the description.
@@robaki-dev Hi, I couldn't find the interactive model., could you please help me? I've already checked the links
@@a.m.641 hi! Ahh the interactive model is available for 30days and then it expires. I’ll upload it once again when I’m back home 🙂
link to the interactive model is now in the description
Bro, what are the lights you are using on this??
knog plus bike lights 😉
@@robaki-dev Thank you! They look great, I love cool lighting. Appreciate the reply.
Hi is that 3d printed parts for rc car please
hey, links are in the description
how many of each piece do I need to print?
I've just added a link to the printed parts list in the description
3D print is it?
yes
How durable is it
Crashes are inevitable when you push the speed, and yep, parts will break. But, if the car is built correctly, with 3D printed parts that match the design tolerances, using the right settings and materials, it can absolutely handle jumps. It's all about finding the right balance between being strong and not too heavy, so it's tough where it needs to be without breaking the bank on metal drivetrain parts. Every build is unique. Some folks get better results than others. There's always room for improvement, and most of us keep tweaking our builds to make them as good as they can be. It's a process of iteration, finding what works best for your specific needs and driving style.
Ahahahahhaha, looool, thats my lastname
Where is the blue print?
Along with this video, I've also got a v2.2 info doc and a cool interactive assembly view on Onshape. Just added the links to the description
Nice job. Thanks.
CVD 传动轴是多长的
How to buy this product mujhe ek project Ke liye chahiye
Robak 2 kit from @rcprinter rcprinter.com or self-sourcing (BOM in the description) 👍
amigo donde consigo el stl
Puedes encontrar el STL de Robak 2 para descargar en Printables o Thingiverse, los enlaces también están en la descripción del video.
What’s the total price for all the stuff?
around $400. Take a look at the bill of materials. Link in the description.
where is the hinge pin pdf located
hi, here's the direct link: media.printables.com/media/prints/119715/other_files/1162656_a4efb73c-b520-41e2-aa02-a17429d86202/hingepinsdrawing.pdf
You can also find the pdf in the release zip package
where to buy all the parts ?
aliexpress, bangood, local rc store. Links on robaki-dev Discord channel: discord.com/invite/4mxkpQYTXy
Is it even really RC'ed??
you mean radio controlled? I think it is
Блин музыка застрелится можно. Пришлось звук отключить.
Rename the video to "3D-Print an RC"
There are many non printed parts used in this design. For example the metal drivetrain. The ultimate build is going to combine many fabrication techniques like cnc machining. At the moment I'm only capable of 3D printing parts 😄
Jual sama part & baud nya gan
Hsp part
yes, It's a good value for the price and they're available almost everywhere
Yor rc car l love from my 3d print massion no 😢😢😢😢😢😢😢 yore so heppy l am messing 3d print messin 🤐😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭
Bruh, technical cringe
what specifically was cringe ?
PЯӨMӨƧM
Z jakuego modelu użyłeś części ?
metalowe części napędu są z HSP 94111