Subbed! Am I right by saying you used prusament PLA Galaxy Black? Also, if you have parts that break easily, a good CoPA such as from the likes of Polymaker will make really durable parts. I like Polymaker's CoPAs because they are designed to be a lot more easy to print than others, although it is expensive.
@@lio1234234 That's correct! It's Prusament PLA Galaxy Black! Never tried CoPA before but I keep it as an option. I'm tempted to try the new Prusament PC Blend Carbon Fiber as well.
@@LeandroLinares true that one does sound good, I imagine it's very rigid, not sure of its durability though. Also, nylon is a great one for gears due to its naturally lubricating properties 👍
@@LeandroLinares On my side I've to sand every parts before assembling them; the screws and bearing are not fitting well. Did you print parts @100% scale ?
I printed everything at 100% scale, yes. The screws were ok-ish during the assembly. Now all of them are not fitting well. I wish I shrank the holes or something beforehand.
i stumbled upon this video.. i really love the concept behind 3D printing rc parts.. it has inspired me to replace some parts on my rc truck with 3d printed parts.. love the video.
Hey, nice to hear! The most tricky part for me were the screws and how they fit into the printed parts. It mostly depends on each printer, so pay attention on the size of the holes and change their size if you need to.
For things like the motor mount use a nut on one side not just threading into the plastic Also don't use 3d printing when it's not necessary for things like the diffs as they could be much weaker then metal ones Remember to use bearings as well
@@wisty0819 looks awesome The only thing I'd add is some none 3d printed wheels with proper tyres or add tyres to 3d printed ones And use some oil filled shocks for a better dampening effect
One thing about steering: in center position, servo arm should be perpendicular to link that goes to steering. Also, I can recommend using PLA+ on arms etc, it'd less brittle than the standard one. And PETG for gears
Every rc build I have done, I have used pla+. It is indeed much less brittle and works well for this type of project. Sometimes it even surprises me on it's strength
@@davper8619 that's not needed for majority of parts apart for some around the motor - and PETG might be too soft there. PLA is much easier to print with uniform strength - lthough it's more brittle overall. PETG can be also printed with good layer adhesion, but it takes more effort to nail it.
@@Papinak2 well that good to hear. So I got His manual and the approx bill for parts besides 3D printing was around 600$ euros, am I looking at it wrong or is that normal for rc cars
YES! In this case it's not my design, but my print. I've been following the designer while he creates the next version of this rc car instagram.com/engineeringns/
That was pretty cool. I love the simplicity of the whole build, but great ingenuity on how they were to fasten together. This video has inspired me to try and create my own car. Lol! wish me luck!
9:30 A note on those bullet connectors: Without any soldering, you can place the wire in the connector and hold it in place using some helping hands. Then you can heat up the connector with your iron and feed solder into the connector using that hole in the side which is its intended use. This way the flux in the solder will clean everything and produce a nice solder joint. Cheers! Oh, and then at 9:50 with the heat shrink, you can have heat shrink cover the whole female connector so there's no exposed conductor to short with the other connectors when everything is plugged in.
Hi Leandro, this is cool. We were solving problem with PLA melting in our project. Solutiotion is to use ASA or CPE for the parts with friction. And also use brushless motors. They dont heat as brushed.
I was thinking to try PETG for those parts and if it wasn't enough maybe some PC blend (carbon fiber). I hope that's more than enough haha. About the motor: I'm using a brushless motor and I agree it doesn't heat up as much as a brushed one.
Super cool! Hopefully I can get around to posting a video of my (mostly) 3D printed RC car soon. I had such a blast designing it and you really get that sense of satisfaction when it just shreds! I found that printing select parts in TPU can actually prevent breaks from small hits on curbs and whatnot.
Can't wait to see the video! You made me realize I never mentioned in the video that the white parts are actually printed in TPU (Ninjatek Cheetah). The one on the front below the differential gearbox absorbs any hit to the front transmission.
lubricate the gears with a liquid lubricant that doesn't penetrate and that should allow for higher speeds. I tried something similar and that worked pretty well.
Leandro, realmente TE FELICITO! Que lindo ver que has crecido en todo sentido y llegado tan lejos. Te mando un saludo enorme. Aunque no hablamos mucho, alguna vez fuimos vecinos en la vieja Villa España.... Abrazo!!
very cool project 👍👍 if I can give you a few tips: use threaded inserts, so you are much quicker to assembly. I attached the engine directly to the tire, which makes many mechanical parts unnecessary.
Save $150. Wait for an ender 3 to be on sale for $100 (be patient), use $50 for some starting pla and such. Hardest part is finding out how to make the $150 lol. Just depends on your age
AWESOME video, of a cool project! The rate that I manage to break my RC cars, I'm anxious to try 3D printing one of these cars. This way I can simply print a replacement part when they break!
I love 3D printed stuff, but it's always super clear that it lacks the strength of molded parts. Would be amazing to find some way to have the best of both worlds.
@@LeandroLinares standard brass nozzle, but you need an all metal hotend to print it as you need to print at around 290°c and ptfe will break down really quickly at that temp
Yeah, in fact it took me so long that you can see after the first half of the video I started learning and experimenting more about lighting in photography :D
Cool video and this was one of the better ones as it's a quick overview with the backing documents if you want them. I am looking at doing something around 1/10 or smaller scale so this gave me some good tips and confirmed ideas I already had. I did notice the infill for the parts is only 10%? I had to admit I was expecting a high %age or sold fill for any load bearing parts? Are the wall thickness for these quite thick?
So cool! I plan to do something like this, because I’m tired of ordering parts after breaking them on my old rc car, and if I do this I’ll already have parts!
Hey! Nice to hear you have the 3. I almost built that one and then the 4 came out so I started gathering the pieces and building it. Now waiting for the 5 that hopefully will come out soon :D
9:49 => Push the shrink tube 2mm further to the front ! Then no short circuiting can happen. The male connector does not need to enter the female connector 100% for full function. 90% is more than enough. I once lost a whole RC boat on the river Rhine in Germany because of that small error...
Ahhh, it makes sense now!! I didn't find enough info when I wanted to learn how to do it, and I ended up 3d printing a piece to keep the connectors away from each other, without understanding what was wrong. I wish I had this info earlier. I will do it the right way as soon as possible. THANKS A LOT.
The best rc video i've ever seen. Is there any possibilty to share with me the stl document? I'm mechanical engineer and i have bought "crealtiy K1 3d printer" just yet. This project is absouletly looks like my dream.
Hey, everything you need is in this document. Keep in mind that there is a new version now! Feel free to check the subreddit that is linked in the description and on the document as well: docs.google.com/document/d/1hfrpDU1DQm6QKrioJsxxcMdq8ormYTlwAHaiswDuSHI/edit#heading=h.11keoq7856ad
I've been wanting to print something like this for a while... I'm too lazy and impatient 🤷♂. it took me a week straight for a 70mm delta wing I printed. I RESPECT IT!
Hahaha, yeah. I tried to print everything while waiting for all the electronics to arrive so I had plenty of time. I don't see myself waiting to print all the pieces now :D
I would use ASA instead of PLA because ASA is alot impact resistance. You can use ASA on the outside but PLA in the inside. RC cars normally get hit alot so ASA would be helpful.
I didn't have problems with PLA so far. I would print the gears in PC blend so I can go full throttle without melting the transmission gears. Other than that, no need for other material IMO.
This is so cool. I shared it a few times with friends and family. I love the aspect of 3d printed cars that you can just re-print whatever breaks. awesome! Quick question: how long does the battery last on this set up?
Thanks for the nice words! I realized I've never used an entire battery charge because I always tried to use the car to the limit and break it haha. I think it's like you said, it's awesome that you can just re-print it. So, I guess I've been trying to test its limits. I don't know how long the battery last ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I hope you enjoy the video!
I'd really appreciate it if you consider subscribing to my channel :)
I subbed! More sick builds to come, I hope.
3d printed monster truck
Subbed! Am I right by saying you used prusament PLA Galaxy Black? Also, if you have parts that break easily, a good CoPA such as from the likes of Polymaker will make really durable parts. I like Polymaker's CoPAs because they are designed to be a lot more easy to print than others, although it is expensive.
@@lio1234234 That's correct! It's Prusament PLA Galaxy Black! Never tried CoPA before but I keep it as an option. I'm tempted to try the new Prusament PC Blend Carbon Fiber as well.
@@LeandroLinares true that one does sound good, I imagine it's very rigid, not sure of its durability though. Also, nylon is a great one for gears due to its naturally lubricating properties 👍
omg, using threaded rods througg the length of the body is absolutely genius, applying pre-stressed construction to small scale projects
Super satisfying to watch! I'm impressed by how easily all parts fit together. Great video and design! Have fun😀
Thank you so much! Yes, for my surprise everything went smoothly
@@LeandroLinares On my side I've to sand every parts before assembling them; the screws and bearing are not fitting well.
Did you print parts @100% scale ?
I printed everything at 100% scale, yes. The screws were ok-ish during the assembly. Now all of them are not fitting well. I wish I shrank the holes or something beforehand.
@@LeandroLinares thanks for your feedback. BTW your video is awesome ! Continue !
i stumbled upon this video.. i really love the concept behind 3D printing rc parts.. it has inspired me to replace some parts on my rc truck with 3d printed parts.. love the video.
I'm building my own rc car from scratch for a school project. With full suspension aswell, any tips?
Hey, nice to hear! The most tricky part for me were the screws and how they fit into the printed parts. It mostly depends on each printer, so pay attention on the size of the holes and change their size if you need to.
For things like the motor mount use a nut on one side not just threading into the plastic
Also don't use 3d printing when it's not necessary for things like the diffs as they could be much weaker then metal ones
Remember to use bearings as well
@@joshuaprescott2930 This is what I've made so far : ruclips.net/channel/UC5oHQos7H0swedore93KJCA
@@wisty0819 looks awesome
The only thing I'd add is some none 3d printed wheels with proper tyres or add tyres to 3d printed ones
And use some oil filled shocks for a better dampening effect
@@wisty0819 I should post the one I've made but it uses a lot of non 3d printed parts
If you make your upper suspension arms adjustable, like the rods for your steering, you can adjust your camber and make the car drive much better
That is impressive; I look forward to the continuing refinement of 3D printing.
Buen video , paso a paso.
Me gustó verlo en acción.
Has creado un animal.
Saludos desde Cali, Colombia.
One of the best build videos I've ever seen! Well done!
I like the little editing trick you did with reversing the servo + servo mount mating xD
Insanely precise prints.
Hey, thanks! I'm always amazed by the quality of prusa printers
Amazing!!!!
One thing about steering: in center position, servo arm should be perpendicular to link that goes to steering.
Also, I can recommend using PLA+ on arms etc, it'd less brittle than the standard one. And PETG for gears
Every rc build I have done, I have used pla+. It is indeed much less brittle and works well for this type of project. Sometimes it even surprises me on it's strength
But petg is more heat resistant
@@davper8619 that's not needed for majority of parts apart for some around the motor - and PETG might be too soft there. PLA is much easier to print with uniform strength - lthough it's more brittle overall. PETG can be also printed with good layer adhesion, but it takes more effort to nail it.
@@Papinak2 well that good to hear. So I got
His manual and the approx bill for parts besides 3D printing was around 600$ euros, am I looking at it wrong or is that normal for rc cars
@@davper8619 its to much. You can buy good rc car for 300$
I would love so much seeing a full and complete tuto how to an RC car from design to final, this can be so dope
YES! In this case it's not my design, but my print. I've been following the designer while he creates the next version of this rc car instagram.com/engineeringns/
I just ran across this... Its so cool to randomly see my design out there in the wild! Awesome build and thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much for this amazing project! 🙏
2:46 brilliant idea for pinion!
Really REALLY cool! Gonna try to make one here in Brazil.
That was pretty cool. I love the simplicity of the whole build, but great ingenuity on how they were to fasten together. This video has inspired me to try and create my own car. Lol! wish me luck!
9:30 A note on those bullet connectors: Without any soldering, you can place the wire in the connector and hold it in place using some helping hands. Then you can heat up the connector with your iron and feed solder into the connector using that hole in the side which is its intended use. This way the flux in the solder will clean everything and produce a nice solder joint. Cheers!
Oh, and then at 9:50 with the heat shrink, you can have heat shrink cover the whole female connector so there's no exposed conductor to short with the other connectors when everything is plugged in.
Ahhhh, that makes WAY more sense. Thank you so much.
Also, plenty of thick gear grease should have been addded to all the gearsboxes, espcially the main reductor gearbox.
Is there a reason why you would not simply crimp them? I crimp every connection similar to those and never had any problems.
@@sebastianbottger1044 They are not designed to be crimped.
Crimp connectors are terrible, they have high resistance and over time get worse until you have glitching etc
Hi Leandro, this is cool. We were solving problem with PLA melting in our project. Solutiotion is to use ASA or CPE for the parts with friction. And also use brushless motors. They dont heat as brushed.
I was thinking to try PETG for those parts and if it wasn't enough maybe some PC blend (carbon fiber). I hope that's more than enough haha. About the motor: I'm using a brushless motor and I agree it doesn't heat up as much as a brushed one.
Super cool!
Hopefully I can get around to posting a video of my (mostly) 3D printed RC car soon.
I had such a blast designing it and you really get that sense of satisfaction when it just shreds!
I found that printing select parts in TPU can actually prevent breaks from small hits on curbs and whatnot.
Can't wait to see the video! You made me realize I never mentioned in the video that the white parts are actually printed in TPU (Ninjatek Cheetah). The one on the front below the differential gearbox absorbs any hit to the front transmission.
I made the video if you want to check it out.
@@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany saw it and I can't believe the wheelies 🆒
the way the music is in time when he cuts the m3 rod👍👍👍
6:05 this excites me....... what a beautiful stuff
We have a lot of similarities in our printed RC designs. We even have the same dumborc receiver 😆. Good work man nice build
lubricate the gears with a liquid lubricant that doesn't penetrate and that should allow for higher speeds. I tried something similar and that worked pretty well.
Leandro, realmente TE FELICITO! Que lindo ver que has crecido en todo sentido y llegado tan lejos. Te mando un saludo enorme. Aunque no hablamos mucho, alguna vez fuimos vecinos en la vieja Villa España.... Abrazo!!
Wow, so clean looking!
Loved the break down and the creativity. Enjoyed it very much.
This is relaxing to watch
i love your channel thanks for making this video because i love rc cars
0:39 Por um momento achei que fosse fazer um churrasco! Hahaha Excelente vídeo, edição incrível!
🍳🍳🍳
You buddy, are a top-notch tinkerer... Very, very nice work 😁🍻👍
Nicely made car and video😀 small channel that needs more recognition. Great work !!!!!!
Hey, much appreciated!
very cool project 👍👍 if I can give you a few tips: use threaded inserts, so you are much quicker to assembly. I attached the engine directly to the tire, which makes many mechanical parts unnecessary.
Yeah, that would definitely improve the assembly. With all the vibrations and hits, now a bunch of screws are losen ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Wow It was stunning! I will try to make it based on your instructions! It seems it wil take a week at least...
It's a genius to do so far! I want a 3D printer.
Save $150. Wait for an ender 3 to be on sale for $100 (be patient), use $50 for some starting pla and such. Hardest part is finding out how to make the $150 lol. Just depends on your age
@@dollarbutt Be patient and wait!
I cannot believe the drivetrain didn't explode when you drove it! Amazing print!
Oh, it exploded when I jumped and when I hit the wall indoors. And it's fun to rebuild it as much as driving it!
AWESOME video, of a cool project! The rate that I manage to break my RC cars, I'm anxious to try 3D printing one of these cars. This way I can simply print a replacement part when they break!
Cool idea hope it holds up
Looks like a great design. I'm definitely thinking about building one. Thanks for sharing
It's so much fun. Not only driving it but also fixing it after breaking something
@@LeandroLinares I found the model files on Thingiverse. Thanks for sharing them with us
Impressed! So Clean!
I love 3D printed stuff, but it's always super clear that it lacks the strength of molded parts. Would be amazing to find some way to have the best of both worlds.
the prints do be looking hella clean. cool build
Props to Prusa printers. I can't believe the quality they have just out of the box.
Really high-quality videos! You def deserve some more subscribers. Would love to see you tackle a drone!
Thanks a lot!! A drone is on the list of projects, for sure :D
I love your camera
Absolutely underrated
if your breaking bits fairly frequently, you could try printing in polycarbonate, i tried printing some parts the other day and its crazy strong
Will do! Did you have to replace the nozzle for a stronger one?
@@LeandroLinares standard brass nozzle, but you need an all metal hotend to print it as you need to print at around 290°c and ptfe will break down really quickly at that temp
Gotcha, thanks
It’s a thing of beauty
You production is very nice. It took alot of time shooting all this stuff. Car is also cool :)
Yeah, in fact it took me so long that you can see after the first half of the video I started learning and experimenting more about lighting in photography :D
That is awesome , i love the build!
Nice, but you should use grease for all gear parts or u will have them round after a few seasions.
the best part about all this is when a gear or part breaks you can reprint it
100% this! And fixing it is as much fun as driving it
I am always amazed by these
I hope you can build one soon!
beautiful work.
Well this was a pleasant surprise ! Nicely done and thank you for including everything. Now if i only had some time. ...
Thank you so much! Yeah, it took me most of my weekends during a few months :D
@@LeandroLinares You are very weclomed.
I did sub, gladly !
Great work mate
Thanks a lot 🙏
GJ! Thanks for the beatifull video!
Next video: build a home with 3d print. Nice video ❤😊
Cool video and this was one of the better ones as it's a quick overview with the backing documents if you want them. I am looking at doing something around 1/10 or smaller scale so this gave me some good tips and confirmed ideas I already had. I did notice the infill for the parts is only 10%? I had to admit I was expecting a high %age or sold fill for any load bearing parts? Are the wall thickness for these quite thick?
Amazing build. Love it
Bro u are so underrated...😭😭😭😭
sooo cleaaan man its satisfying I dont know why you just have 11k subribers
So cool! I plan to do something like this, because I’m tired of ordering parts after breaking them on my old rc car, and if I do this I’ll already have parts!
good vid. i just came up on it and have been working on the 3. Would of did the 4 but didnt find it in time lol. will try it. Thx for the vid
Hey! Nice to hear you have the 3. I almost built that one and then the 4 came out so I started gathering the pieces and building it. Now waiting for the 5 that hopefully will come out soon :D
And as the story goes.. he spent the rest of his spare time from now to forever printing his kids more gears and control arms.
Nice build and good work. I am sure it must have taken some time to design and build. 👍👍
Not my design but my print. It took months to print and get all the parts. I can imagine designing it, and iterating it can take some time, yeah
So amazing job!
Mind-blowing! Looks like so much fun! Also, your videos are amazing :)
Thank you so much :) :)
9:49 => Push the shrink tube 2mm further to the front ! Then no short circuiting can happen. The male connector does not need to enter the female connector 100% for full function. 90% is more than enough. I once lost a whole RC boat on the river Rhine in Germany because of that small error...
Ahhh, it makes sense now!! I didn't find enough info when I wanted to learn how to do it, and I ended up 3d printing a piece to keep the connectors away from each other, without understanding what was wrong. I wish I had this info earlier. I will do it the right way as soon as possible. THANKS A LOT.
The best rc video i've ever seen. Is there any possibilty to share with me the stl document? I'm mechanical engineer and i have bought "crealtiy K1 3d printer" just yet. This project is absouletly looks like my dream.
Hey, everything you need is in this document. Keep in mind that there is a new version now! Feel free to check the subreddit that is linked in the description and on the document as well: docs.google.com/document/d/1hfrpDU1DQm6QKrioJsxxcMdq8ormYTlwAHaiswDuSHI/edit#heading=h.11keoq7856ad
Very nice bro..you have my support after looking at this
🤜🤛
Thanks!
I'll build my one!
woah nice project :D
very nice and cool
you are really very good!
Muy profesional el trabajo, una maravilla .
Awesome Build !!! 😎👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
This looks great to make drift cars but i dont think to make like a buggy or something for that you will have to use ABS material
Good job
very nice
That's REALLY cool!
What about the controler
Thanks
i think a longer wheelbase would make it handle better since it looks very wide
looks cool thoe
1 minute in: ok, you know what you're doing! (Unlike too many other 3d printing vids I see).
I've been wanting to print something like this for a while... I'm too lazy and impatient 🤷♂. it took me a week straight for a 70mm delta wing I printed.
I RESPECT IT!
Hahaha, yeah. I tried to print everything while waiting for all the electronics to arrive so I had plenty of time. I don't see myself waiting to print all the pieces now :D
wow did not think you have so little subscribers, when your videos are super high quality
+1 subscriber
Good job. Looks really impressive. :)
Thanks! It means a lot
Is that carbon fiber filament? extremely cool btw
I would use ASA instead of PLA because ASA is alot impact resistance. You can use ASA on the outside but PLA in the inside. RC cars normally get hit alot so ASA would be helpful.
I didn't have problems with PLA so far. I would print the gears in PC blend so I can go full throttle without melting the transmission gears. Other than that, no need for other material IMO.
Fantastic video really enjoyable too watch
Thank you so much. Glad you enjoyed it 🙌
This is so cool. I shared it a few times with friends and family. I love the aspect of 3d printed cars that you can just re-print whatever breaks. awesome!
Quick question: how long does the battery last on this set up?
Thanks for the nice words! I realized I've never used an entire battery charge because I always tried to use the car to the limit and break it haha. I think it's like you said, it's awesome that you can just re-print it. So, I guess I've been trying to test its limits. I don't know how long the battery last ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
If anyone is wondering this a Tarmo4 off thingaverse, made by KrisCube
Note: always center your servo before you attach the servo horn
Gotcha 👌
Awesome
Super well made video!
nice video editing
Thanks 🙏
You should put small camera on the car
Very impressive.....
im impressed
Great Project!!!