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I think it’s because I purposely avoid calling it a 3D printed RC. Sure, it was designed with 3D printing in mind, which makes it super accessible and easy for anyone with a printer to build. I’ve seen so many people run into issues trying to make something fully 3D printed and I didn’t want to go down that road just to prove a point. That’s why I like calling it DIY instead. It gives me and others more freedom to experiment, like replacing off-the-shelf parts with custom made ones or trying out other fabrication methods. I’ve already seen some awesome mods where people machined metal gears and parts, and I was seriously impressed! I’d love to have the tools and skills to do something like that one day. Thanks so much for the comment, I really appreciate it!

Awesome that you're building one! There’s no official list of screws but you might find RCPrinter's table helpful for sizes and placements. drive.google.com/file/d/1skcKgEfYtpOHljTlpK0D07UESBPWfUgk/view

metalowe części napędu są z HSP 94111

what specifically was cringe ?

Thanks! Square nuts are easier to insert into the slot. Slots for square nuts are easier to design and faster to print :)

thanks!

Thanks! :)

Hey, thanks! The performance of the car is only as good as the quality of the assembly and materials. It's hard to get everything right on the first try, but after a few iterations, you can have a very capable basher with this design.

checkout kits from my friend rcprinter.com

Amazon has every thing you could want

Puedes encontrar el STL de Robak 2 para descargar en Printables o Thingiverse, los enlaces también están en la descripción del video.

Crashes are inevitable when you push the speed, and yep, parts will break. But, if the car is built correctly, with 3D printed parts that match the design tolerances, using the right settings and materials, it can absolutely handle jumps. It's all about finding the right balance between being strong and not too heavy, so it's tough where it needs to be without breaking the bank on metal drivetrain parts. Every build is unique. Some folks get better results than others. There's always room for improvement, and most of us keep tweaking our builds to make them as good as they can be. It's a process of iteration, finding what works best for your specific needs and driving style.

Yeah, printed pinion and spur gears definitely do the job. The real challenge lies in getting the printer dialed in just right; paying close attention to your slicer settings, maybe having to reprint a few times, and tweaking things until you get the gear mesh perfect. I went with PA12 for these gears since it's supposed to be really good for this use, but I've seen people get great results with PLA+ too.

VW Baja Bug 👍

@@robaki-dev yes sir!!!! I hope I'm excited. to see it with the Baja Bug body, ❤️❤️❤️❤️

I usually avoid looking closely at it while it's running and always keep the body on when driving. It's true that the gears can fail, but they typically don't shatter into sharp pieces like glass or metal. The failure often results in the part deforming or delaminating, rather than producing dangerous shrapnel. For added safety, designing a 3D printed protective cover for the gears is a good precaution. There's one available for Robak. It's great to hear you're planning to 3D print an RC car. It's a lot of fun!

I've added the link to the BOM for the Knog Plus Lights. They might seem pricey for RC lights alone. Since I also use them on my bike, they were a reasonable choice for me. If you're seeking lights solely for your RC, you can consider more affordable led bars from AliExpress designed for RC

@@robaki-dev Yes, they are not cheap, but are amazing. Thanks for sharing the link.

Thanks for pointing that out; I've removed the link. I couldn't find any suitable silicone oil over 50k cSt on AliExpress. Based on my experience, it's easiest to find at local hobby stores.

Bardzo dziękuję! 😀 Projekt chyba powoli dojrzewa, nie ma już radykalnych zmian, więc to dobry moment na rozpoczęcie budowania. Szacun dla wszystkich, którzy testowali i pomagali mi ulepszać pierwsze wersje. 💪 Jak teraz patrzę na swoje stare filmiki to uśmiecham się pod nosem 😄

Always using those and can never have enough! Had no idea they were also called "eurorack slider nuts". Makes sense, they've got the same specs as M3 DIN 562. Super cool!

it's nylon filled with fiber glass, why not?😀

Ideally, the motor mount should be made of the most rigid material possible (metal). This will ensure a constant gap between the spur and the pinion and thereby extend the life (mileage) of the pinion.@@robaki-dev

@@Евгений-и1т8ь Totally agree, if only my printer could print metal or diamond! At the time, PA12+GF was the most rigid material I had available, capable of handling temperatures above 60°C without melting. The loose fit on the shaft and spur gear cause much more wobble. Guess I should fix that first, but the setup is still good enough to provide many hours of enjoyable driving.

I've seen an attempt to use snow truck tracks instead of wheels 😁

Hey, thanks! They're made with PA12 nylon. Just read up on this - nylon and acetal are both awesome for gears. Nylon's easier for printing and acetal for machining. Printing helical gears is no sweat, just like spur gears, but machining them is a whole different level. They're holding up pretty well so far, too! Plus, I kinda like the sound of plastic gears more than metal, haha. Cheers! 😀

​@@robaki-dev you are so right about the sound, steel is noisy and sometimes rougher. Oddly plastic spur and steel or brass pinion is longer lasting as the plastic absorbs small particles rather than getting worn by them. I saw a spur eat dirt, then sort of reformed itself back to proper shape. Steel sometimes gets damaged and keeps harming itself. Keep on inventing stuff, it's great to see someone actually doing stuff for themselves rather than just ordering it online!! 👍🍺🇬🇧🖖

Indeed, but the other gears in the drivetrain are just cast steel, not top-notch. If I had high-quality machined steel gears, then sure, these PA12 nylon printed gears might be the weak link. Right now, though, they're performing quite well. I'm happy with their performance, and the beauty is, if they ever break, I can easily reprint them 😅

Thanks! 😊

See my new video on the channel 😊

Did u fill the differential with ca glue? Edit: Stupid question sorry that musta been grease

@@98f5 It's thick silicone oil used for viscous coupling inside the differential to achieve kind of limited slip differential (LSD) effect.

CVD传动轴是长长的

Along with this video, I've also got a v2.2 info doc and a cool interactive assembly view on Onshape. Just added the links to the description

Nice job. Thanks.

Thanks!

Have you considered creating and offering the Bill of Materials as a digital product? Would make a killer DIY kit for Christmas and Birthdays! Also I dream of adding an RPI + camera for semi-autonomous capabilities. Food for thought!

Kits are available from @rcprinter, who prepares them based on the original BOM for various 3D printed RC vehicles. Printed parts are not available for purchase, as owning a 3D printer is highly recommended. The main advantage of this project is the ability to reprint parts at home, so you don't need to buy new ones when they break. I gave one of the cars to a young relative who doesn't have a 3D printer. No worries though, I've got them covered with a lifetime of help with the parts they need. 😄 I recently experimented with a BeagleBoneBlue SBC with Ardupilot and GPS installed and the waypoint navigation worked wonderfully. However, I've temporarily removed it due to the snowy conditions here, as I'm concerned about the electronics 😀. On the Discord channel, I've noticed some attempts at integrating FPV cameras, which is quite interesting. Additionally, there's a reduction gearbox modification available on Printables that I'm eager to test soon to enhance climbing capabilities. I'm really fond of the Robak community and its innovative spirit. ☺️

Yeah, it's an expensive hobby, but it's more about the journey and the skills you gain from building your own car than just comparing the costs.

Łapalice Castle, Poland. 54.3308, 18.1395

@@robaki-dev so beautiful (even though it is graffitied a/f)

Absolutely, a little give in the material helps with taking hits without breaking. With larger printers, we can get the chassis as one piece, which increases the sturdiness without sacrificing the flex where it's needed.

The initial sketches for the car's design were created in 2020, and it has been evolving ever since.

Dzięki! 💪 Części drukowane to Robak 2 na printables.com części mechaniczne to głównie HSP z aliexpress :)

thanks!

around $400. Take a look at the bill of materials. Link in the description.

нашел

It’s around $400. Take a look at the bill of materials. Link in the description.