This video made me laugh. I laughed because most people have this wrong. For this engine, for sure remove the throttle body to clean it. There is so much stuff that collects behind the plate. Listen to this guy...and remove the throttle body or at least removing without taking the coolant hoses off so you can at least have access to the ungodly sight behind the plate. Most guy just spray cleaner in the throttle...do not waste your time...it will DO NOTHING. Remove it and clean it with a soft brush or toothbrush. Thanks Brother. Nice video.
it sucks not having Radio Shack. Very helpful info here. The Corksport rear engine mount made the manual shifting silky smooth and gave it a little growl. I have 155K miles and now the power is really bad. Going uphills or trying to accelerate is slower. I thought maybe its the fuel pump or fuel filter, but O2 sensors haven't been touched. So i;'ll do that first. As well as clean throttle body today, and MAF sensor clean. I have a knock when i accelerate. I think its an engine mount. Mechanic needs to check out the suspension. Out of my pay grade. I had the clutch replaced a couple years ago and a hydraulic line popped loose a couple months later. So maybe the guy didn't torque the mount tight enough either. At this point i just want to sell it in a few months. Its been decent. I wish it was faster but is what it is. The manual helps and cold air intake. Although you make the stock intake make sense.
One more thing you could do (at least on the 2.3 motors) is to re gap the spark plugs. The gap from factory is .050, gap them to between .040 and .045, and engine will feel much more awake at mid/higher rpm
Always respect anyone who is willing to make a how to video for RUclips. And you'll always get smart mouths with mommy issues worried about video quality. Knowledge is the only quality that means a damn thing.
That 09 engine is much better strengthwise, since that was the year they started having a forged crank. The replacement engine in my car is from an 09.
That one intake bolt in the centre of your intake has a whole right above the radiator housing that lines up with it. you can feed a long extension in and send it then ratchet it out from the front bumper of your car. Honestly discovering that takes almost 40 minutes of the r&i of the manifold.
i dont mean to be so off topic but does any of you know a trick to get back into an instagram account..? I was dumb forgot my account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me.
@Gary Guillermo I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Throttle body coolant bypass - there is a very slight Venturi shape to most throttle bodies, and as pressure and temperature have a direct relation, as the pressure drops across the TB, so too will the temperature of the air in the boundary layer attached to the metal. Any humidity in the intake air will condense due to adibiatic cooling. Adding a little water jacket heat prevents that to an extent, so yes, a little bit of throttle icing prevention is the idea at the factory. But it also helps keep that humidity in suspension in the intake air, which believe it or not helps combustion.
This weekend I'll be putting new headlights (the old ones are beyond saving) and adding fog lights using the factory wiring and a replacement light stalk from the junk yard off a higher trim level car. I also plan to do an update on the car as it now has all of the mods done to it that I mention I wanted to do in this video.
Just did all these to an 2008, also replaced spark plugs and cleaned out injectors. Bought the car for almost nothing. Owner was selling it cause it was rough idling. Rough idle gone, no more shake. Definate gains.
Yeah it's really simple stuff, and the Mazda 3 is such a great car! Fun to drive, it handles great and once the small stuff is sorted out very reliable too. I love my 3. I'm planning an update to this video now that most of the things I highlighted have been done.
yeah the TB is grounded otherwise it wouldn't work. The wire you are talking about is a 22 gauge wire, and the ground is less then stellar. I have verified better throttle response as have plenty of others.
Rumnhammer you should do blind tests where the wire is grounded and not ground, you not knowing which is which. Guys on the mazda forums did that and discovered it was placebo effect.i mean that's cool if it makes you feel better but it really doesn't work. If it did help that much the OEM would have supplied an extra ground.
I did the 10 GA ground wire thing a bunch of years back on my '04 Mazda 6S (V6) and found it provided zero benefit. I was so disappointed. I spent time and money for nothing.
@@InexplicableBill that's becouse it does t do anything. These guys should do about twenty take off 0-60 runs and see the results. They also don't know evidently that the throttle pedal has a lag that occurs between the pedal module , ecu and the TB. This is all placebo
@@JohnBoulding agreed. My Mazda 6 was my 5th Mazda since I left college back in the 80s. It's the first with drive by wire throttle control. I hated it from the day I drove it home from the dealer in 2004, and over time learned to live with it. I wrote it off as Mazda's half - baked first effort at E-throttle, but am additional effect that comes from the V6 model (a Ford Duratec 3.0) is the heavy flywheel which takes a tic to wind up when you mash the throttle. Mazda also has some trickery in the initial 2,000 RPMs in which you just know you're not getting all the torque that motor can make. It's almost like turbo lag, and every once in a while something changes and I don't feel it.
Hey nice video, you have me a bunch of ideas to try and improve my atrocious fuel economy on my 3! Question though: With the RAM air scoop, do you not run into AF mixture issues and require an ECU tune, or can the ECU compensate? My car is a 2004 2.3L with 137k KMs
I guess the you are referring to the tubing I used going up to the bumper, no AF issues at all it just takes high pressure air from a colder spot then stock. The 2 liter will always get better mileage then a 2.3 no getting around that, just have to drive with a lighter foot.
Hey, question for you, I tried posting this on the Mazda 3 forum but I don't ahve enough posts and I just NEED to know! My car has been making this noise for a while, and its slowly getting worse and worse. I'm PRETTY sure its just my clutch, but I'm curious what you think? ruclips.net/video/K0xiJOfUfAE/видео.html
I couldn't really hear anything in the video, but if you clutch is going out the easiest way to tell is that the engine will rev up and the car really won't go anywhere. It's pretty obvious when it happens and usually it will go over time, but my wifes clutch in her subaru went out in just a couple of days. If the clutch is let out and the engines reving up and you aren't going anywhere or if you are driving along and it revs up without the car going faster that would be the clutch. It doesn't really make a noise perse.
Ebay sells a cast aluminum cosworth replica NA Intake Manifold without the butterflies I've been saving up for this I want to get it then port and polish it before installing I have a 2.3 mazda 5 minivan manual
Hello did you use 3 inch hose because without it the air would be blocked by under shield . Right now I just have bottom of air box with no hose and under shield and it only sounds louder than it's moving . Please help 🥺 thank you
2008 2.3L S Hatch I stumbled across your video in my quest to maintain my ride. I bought her used and done maintenance/fixes as problems came up- replaced splash shield, cleaned MAF, tires, etc. Im really interested in the idea of an oil catch can but would it be necessary, if I clean my throttle body often?
An air oil separator is very beneficial in these cars because the PCV valve is very close to the intake manifold. The easiest way to install it is to remove the intake manifold. The main reason to add one is not to keep the throttle body clean but to prevent the engine from ingesting all that oil vapor, it lowers the octane of the fuel charge as well as mucking up the inside of the intake manifold, and coating the back of the throttle body.
Just finished my throttle body and MAF cleaning - my car is BRAND new. The hesitation, shuddering, and rough idle have completely stopped. I did the relearn process as well. I’m going to clean my ground contacts next. Aside from the main ground you show, where else is there an engine ground? I have some extra gauge wire for my throttle ground, what terminal ends did you use?
I used gold plated terminal ends, they are expensive but gold does not corrode, and you can find them at places that sell high end stereo stuff. For the extra grounds just look around the engine compartment, they are all over the place. Hope this helped.
Chris, The oil air separator for non turbo instructional install video would be helpful. All the other videos are for turbo msp only. Could you created a video I'm so confused not sure which hose i need to use. My thanks. Roberto
Roberto, really the only difference between my install and a turbo application is where I mounted the can. On most installs in a 3 you mount it down on the frame rail over by the drivers side headlight. I'm still using the stock airbox which a lot of people don't so that was in the way of the mounting of it in that spot. Also I like to put the AOS in a location that is easy to get to and easy to drain. For the hose routing, you basically are intercepting the PCV valve hose. So this is best done with the intake manifold removed. What I did is to take the stock PCV hose and cut it so it comes out at a 90 degree angle going towards the throttle body. Then attach the hose that will go to the bottom of the catch can (intake side) to the PCV valve and route it over past the throttle body and around to the bottom of the can like I have in the video. Then route the hose connected to the intake manifold side spliced into the modified (now 90 degree) stock PCV hose and route that to the top (return line) on the can. After that I just made a bracket to mount the can in the location shown in the video and you are done. Whatever you do DO NOT plumb the cam cover vent into the AOS line. I did that and the pressure it created messed up my oil rings so my engine now burns oil and I will be replacing it in the spring. These engines are very sensitive to crankcase pressure. I will consider making a video on adding the AOS when I do the engine swap in the spring. Hope this helps you. Chris
I couldnt seem to find any videos on the vtcs removal for this manifold. only the aluminum ones. do you keep the actuator on after you remove the flaps and shaft? if not do you just plug off the lines which I assume are vacuum lines going to the actuator?
Yes you leave the solenoid in place and the white lever with the ball fitting on is left in the hole at the end of the manifold. You can leave the solenoid and vacuum lines plugged in and the solenoid will continue to move the white lever only now it is not connected to the shaft which is no longer there. Leave everything plugged in or you will get a CEL. hope this helped, if you have any other questions feel free to ask.
What did you use to smooth out your video? I noticed the shake is mostly gone and you have side bars on the video the appears to adjust for it automatically.
Nothing. I guess RUclips sorted it out or something. This is the only video I've done that was oddly fuzzy. I guess it recorded that why but the other ones didn't..... I don't know.
If the resistance from the throttle body to the negative battery terminal isn't registering any ohms, then wouldn't "grounding" the throttle body be a waste?
If you wanted to test this you would have to test the resistance from the normal ground for the throttle body. By adding a nice fat ground from the throttle body you are basically mimicking as if the intake manifold was aluminum, instead of the plastic that is. The plastic intake basically isolates the throttle body and forces the motor that actuates the throttle plate, to use the tiny connector wire to move the plate. This grounding defiantly works. Although if you really want it to open fast get a sprint booster. I installed one on this car and the throttle opens as fast as you want it to. I'll be having an over all update on this car fairly soon and will cover the sprint booster as part of it.
@@pauldarrigo4395 No sorry, if you look in the video I point to the spot on the bumper where the hose ends up. And you do need to remove the original big resonator to make room for the hose to route up to the spot. it is inbetween the corner of the radiator opening and the right side of the left fog light opening.
Im curious how your 03 has vvt since its a 2.0 I currently in the middle of a swap ( putting the 2.5 in ) I had to delete my vvt as my 2.0 didnt have it. I did some research and learned that 04 - 05 2.0's didnt have vvt until 06. You must have a 2.3
I did consider a 2.5 but since this is my daily, I needed to do a simple R&R and the 2 liter gives better mileage which was also a consideration. If I had of done the 2.5 I would have just got a Mazda one because there really is not much of a price difference these days and you don't have to change as much if you use a Ford one. You can run the 2.5 off the 2.3 ecu not so sure about using the 2 liter one.
Sorry, changing the position of the crankshaft position sensor does absolutely nothing for HP. It counts teeth, it has no effect on actual timing of the engine. Simple observation of PID data with a hand held scan tool will prove this. I heard this and tried it as an experiment, timing was NOT affected whatsoever. PCV mod is highly effective although it does not increase HP ... I would assume it keeps the engine from dropping tenths of a HP over much time helping to keep things clean internally.
Remove the intake manifold, remove square rod that goes through the flaps. remove flaps and rod, replace the actuator that moved the rod but not the rod. and that is about it.
Hemoltz box actually pulse tunes for proper airbox filling and movement. It's not just for noise. The reason the air horn on the box is shaped is also for increase in velocity and tuning. The hemoltz box is in the fender well, it does NOT draw hot air. RAM air only works at speeds above 100 mph and even then it's an increase in pressure by maybe 3 percent. All you are doing is sucking in more water, dirt and bugs. These are ricer upgrades that do nothing
Tumble valves are for low rpm tuning of the intake runners for best drivability in the typical 1500-3000 roma daily driving range. Again, enginnering with purpose
The primary Helmholtz resonator is just for intake noise and nothing else, it draws from behind the front of the wheel well, but the body of the box is located in the lower engine compartment and is subject to the heat from the radiator. The spot I have the intake hose drawing from is directly behind the grill and gets nothing but cool intake air. Have you actually done any of these mods or are you just talking out of your ass?
@@JohnBoulding and again you seem to not know anything about this car at all. The tumble valves are only in there to help with emissions when you cold start the car, and are open all the time once the car reaches operating temp. Once the car is up to operating temps they are nothing but an intake restriction. Removing them has resulted in no drivability issues over the last 3 years since I did this. Stick to banjo playing and leave the car stuff to those of us who have actually earned a living doing this stuff.
Rumnhammer I've actually been working on cars since 1975, lol. RAM air effect does NOT happen below 100 MPH and after that the gain is so small it's negligible. I've owned Mazda's before they were "mazda" so thanks, but I know cars. All of these mods have been debunked numerous times by the dyno. The butt dyno is wrong most of the time. The stock airbox does an excellent job of insulating against heat and what tiny amount of heat gets in is negated but flow in the system anyway. The rot mods with an ECU tune is where real power can be found, that's cool if you want to do all that but again, it's been debunked on dynos and I have watched dozens of them on Mazda's. Any non ECU back mod that nets 5 HP or less is well within the margin of error for A dyno.
@@JohnBoulding I didn't say anything about a RAM air effect....I was talking about removing the primary resonator, I kept the stock airbox and rerouted the intake to draw cold air from behind the grill instead of the the wheel well did you even bother to watch the video? No reply to being called out about the tumble valves? What type of car was mazda before it was mazda? What are you going to 'debunk' next whether or not the short shift kit 'actually' makes the car shift better? again stick to playing the banjo.
your video is pretty informative but just in the beginning I heard something not exactly correct, The aftermarket wiring upgrade is because some of the wiring in not strong enough or rated much higher than speaker wire which attach to the block, the one on the battery terminal is as you said at least 10 gauge and is good enough to leave alone however when you run alot of power it's always nice to upgrade the wire from the Alternator as well and as you showed the throttle body but for people who run big stereo's or other aftermarket you would upgrade to 4 gauge but your battery terminal is still good and yes you always want to clean behind it to get the best connection.. I agree there are a lot of restrictive or unnecessary parts because these cars have horrible air intake and yes i agree a short cold air is a waste because it does not have a box to keep it out of the hot air but short is not the only option for these cars. The original cold air intake is not cheap by far and only free if you catch a kid in a accident somewhere but the long one you remove the air box and it actually mounts just behind the vent in the drivers side wheel well where the vents are to actually get the cooler air from the road and not just transmit heat into the intake like a short one does and again unless you can make a box in place of the filter box so it pulls the air off the road it is a waste.. Some of your information is very clear of why I am curious about some of your moves to me with some of it like removing the tumbler valves and a few others wouldn't you set off your engine light with repeat codes or at least a pretty long list of things. I know i have made very little moves on some of them and I keep getting new codes , I have one code i have done everything but replace the intake and it keeps coming back. I can't say you don't know whats going on especially when everyone likes free upgrades but over all good video . I would like to know more about the catch can that you bought, you made a great list of what you did but not who or where you bought other than in the video
The ground on the starter will not cause a stalling problem. The starter turns the engine over during the starting process. That's it. After the car starts as soon as you let the key go the starter doesnt do anything. If it's cranking slow or not at then it might be the starter. Any stalling has zero to do with a starter.
Very well, one of these days I'll do an update video since I've done all the things I outline and several more. The car runs great and is fun to drive.
30 years of working on cars and lots of research. The basic Mazda 3 is very good right out of the box, so little things make it all the better. I really need to do an update video after getting all the mods done. This car is my daily and if you have to have a commuter car, you may as well have one that is fun to drive.
Why would I boost a 2.5? Why not just swap in a Mazdaspeed 3 drivetrain? And this car is a 2006 have you done anything other then just paint your intake manifold and put an intake on your car that actually hurts performance? What level of experience do you have? Or are you just a troll?
@@Rumnhammer because the speed 3 setup isn't compatible with the regular 3 ecu due to disi heads and such. Plus that's to easy just buy a speed. Built not bought. I do it because I can. It may be easier to buy a speed. But not cheaper. As I do all the work I have saves 1000s of $s. And the disi setup is a headache I'd rather not get. The disi engine is garbage just like the 2.3 na they all use 2.5 blocks with the disi head too. I didn't mean to come off as an asshole. 1 bit. Sometimes I can be harsh. Just in general some of these mods just don't help anything.
I did a couple things that you suggested a d put it back together and isn't getting fuel on startup and won't stay running so how much of that is bullshit a d you just don't know what you are talking about.
Well you can start by telling what is was you did, before saying I don't know what I'm talking about..... The next thing I would suggest is you undo whatever it is you did, and make sure you didn't leave something unplugged ie vacuum line, or connector. Then reply back. PS it is not my fault if you do that, as I can't control the skill level of anybody who decides to modify their car.
Yeah I apologize for the remarks. There's no excuse for that. It was hot out today and I was frustrated. Also I do know how to work on cars. I haven't done it for awhile but have been doing it for as long as I can remember. The problem is the intake hose tore while trying to remove it. The oil vapor line from the valve train empties into it at about the center of the intake hose. Now that is the only current issue. However unless the open oil vapor line needs to be plugged or the intake hose absolutely needs to be connected, It should start. It starts to turn over then the fuel flow stops and it dies. I don't see a vacuum issue unless the vapor line has to be plugged or reconnected. That is the only thing that needs to be done. What i did was removed the throttle body to clean out the inside and was going to do the air box mod, clean the ground connections and run the ground to the throttle body but never got that far. Thanks in advance if you can tell me what the problem is and you can tell me I"m a dumb ass if you like. I deserve it.
You can run the line from the valve train to the open air but if you do, the end at the intake needs to be capped. if that makes any sense. DO NOT cap or restrict the line coming out of the valve cover, it wiil mess up the engine. If you took off the throttle body you should check the gasket behind it is in good shape. Still sounds like a vacuum leak or something is not connected. Also check the vapor purge solenoid, if it is not working and you have a full tank of gas the car will be hard to start. I'm sure it is something simple.
I plugged the line and it got a little better but still won't start. Could be throttle body gasket. I never really totally removed it from the intake. Well I pulled it back a little just enough to clean the inside and put it back together. I never disconnected any lines or sensors from it just pulled it back a little. Crap I guess I will have to pull it apart again and check the gasket.
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This video made me laugh. I laughed because most people have this wrong. For this engine, for sure remove the throttle body to clean it. There is so much stuff that collects behind the plate. Listen to this guy...and remove the throttle body or at least removing without taking the coolant hoses off so you can at least have access to the ungodly sight behind the plate. Most guy just spray cleaner in the throttle...do not waste your time...it will DO NOTHING. Remove it and clean it with a soft brush or toothbrush.
Thanks Brother. Nice video.
it sucks not having Radio Shack. Very helpful info here. The Corksport rear engine mount made the manual shifting silky smooth and gave it a little growl. I have 155K miles and now the power is really bad. Going uphills or trying to accelerate is slower. I thought maybe its the fuel pump or fuel filter, but O2 sensors haven't been touched. So i;'ll do that first. As well as clean throttle body today, and MAF sensor clean.
I have a knock when i accelerate. I think its an engine mount. Mechanic needs to check out the suspension. Out of my pay grade. I had the clutch replaced a couple years ago and a hydraulic line popped loose a couple months later. So maybe the guy didn't torque the mount tight enough either. At this point i just want to sell it in a few months. Its been decent. I wish it was faster but is what it is. The manual helps and cold air intake. Although you make the stock intake make sense.
One more thing you could do (at least on the 2.3 motors) is to re gap the spark plugs. The gap from factory is .050, gap them to between .040 and .045, and engine will feel much more awake at mid/higher rpm
Thanks for sharing, I will try this. Cheers
4mm, serious gunk. Must have made a huge difference when cleared,
Thanks and all the best for posting video.
Did you use a Nintendo DS to record this??
No my phone, I have no idea why it turned out so grainy.
Onix Junes no he used the 3DS get it right bro
Quality doesn't matter. Knowledge and content are there. This guy knows whats up. Im loving my 2010
nokia 5150
Always respect anyone who is willing to make a how to video for RUclips.
And you'll always get smart mouths with mommy issues worried about video quality.
Knowledge is the only quality that means a damn thing.
Just no bs. Love it. Going to be applying alot of this to the 09 2.0 5 speed we just got.
That 09 engine is much better strengthwise, since that was the year they started having a forged crank. The replacement engine in my car is from an 09.
@@Rumnhammer do you know if the other internals are forged? i d like to supercharge my BL 2.5 mazda 3
@@user-rd5nc1nb9f I believe just the crank.
@@Rumnhammer thanks for thé reply. in tht case i’ll still turbo it but i’ll keep it conservative
Alright alright alright sounds like he knows what he's talking about what a video
Best video!
i'll do basically most of this that applies to my MZR-CD 2.0T D
thanks mate, legendary
That one intake bolt in the centre of your intake has a whole right above the radiator housing that lines up with it. you can feed a long extension in and send it then ratchet it out from the front bumper of your car. Honestly discovering that takes almost 40 minutes of the r&i of the manifold.
i dont mean to be so off topic but does any of you know a trick to get back into an instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot my account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me.
@Miller Konnor Instablaster :)
@Gary Guillermo I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Gary Guillermo it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thanks so much you really help me out!
@Miller Konnor Happy to help :D
Very helpful, cant wait until the am to start trying some of these mods.
Instead of removing the tumblers you run the ford fusion 2.5 manifold it already has them removed and non of the holes inside to catch and cause drag
Very actionable tips, love this!
Thanks I appreciate it.
Throttle body coolant bypass - there is a very slight Venturi shape to most throttle bodies, and as pressure and temperature have a direct relation, as the pressure drops across the TB, so too will the temperature of the air in the boundary layer attached to the metal. Any humidity in the intake air will condense due to adibiatic cooling. Adding a little water jacket heat prevents that to an extent, so yes, a little bit of throttle icing prevention is the idea at the factory. But it also helps keep that humidity in suspension in the intake air, which believe it or not helps combustion.
best mods change to some good wheels and tyres
This weekend I'll be putting new headlights (the old ones are beyond saving) and adding fog lights using the factory wiring and a replacement light stalk from the junk yard off a higher trim level car. I also plan to do an update on the car as it now has all of the mods done to it that I mention I wanted to do in this video.
@@Rumnhammer pumped to see that!!!
Good day, I am interested in the air intake one. Is there any caveats to that? My mazda 3 is 2012 i-touring skyactive one.
pretty nice about as clean as my mazda 3.mine has 22000 miles but been very reliable
How about first gen Skyactiv-g?
Most of the stuff should hold true for that engine, although that one breathes better.
Just did all these to an 2008, also replaced spark plugs and cleaned out injectors. Bought the car for almost nothing. Owner was selling it cause it was rough idling. Rough idle gone, no more shake. Definate gains.
Yeah it's really simple stuff, and the Mazda 3 is such a great car! Fun to drive, it handles great and once the small stuff is sorted out very reliable too. I love my 3. I'm planning an update to this video now that most of the things I highlighted have been done.
The throttle body is grounded through the harness, which is grounded by way of the fuse and frame ground. It's a waste of time to run that wire
yeah the TB is grounded otherwise it wouldn't work. The wire you are talking about is a 22 gauge wire, and the ground is less then stellar. I have verified better throttle response as have plenty of others.
Rumnhammer you should do blind tests where the wire is grounded and not ground, you not knowing which is which. Guys on the mazda forums did that and discovered it was placebo effect.i mean that's cool if it makes you feel better but it really doesn't work. If it did help that much the OEM would have supplied an extra ground.
I did the 10 GA ground wire thing a bunch of years back on my '04 Mazda 6S (V6) and found it provided zero benefit. I was so disappointed. I spent time and money for nothing.
@@InexplicableBill that's becouse it does t do anything. These guys should do about twenty take off 0-60 runs and see the results. They also don't know evidently that the throttle pedal has a lag that occurs between the pedal module , ecu and the TB. This is all placebo
@@JohnBoulding agreed. My Mazda 6 was my 5th Mazda since I left college back in the 80s. It's the first with drive by wire throttle control. I hated it from the day I drove it home from the dealer in 2004, and over time learned to live with it. I wrote it off as Mazda's half - baked first effort at E-throttle, but am additional effect that comes from the V6 model (a Ford Duratec 3.0) is the heavy flywheel which takes a tic to wind up when you mash the throttle. Mazda also has some trickery in the initial 2,000 RPMs in which you just know you're not getting all the torque that motor can make. It's almost like turbo lag, and every once in a while something changes and I don't feel it.
Hey nice video, you have me a bunch of ideas to try and improve my atrocious fuel economy on my 3! Question though:
With the RAM air scoop, do you not run into AF mixture issues and require an ECU tune, or can the ECU compensate? My car is a 2004 2.3L with 137k KMs
I guess the you are referring to the tubing I used going up to the bumper, no AF issues at all it just takes high pressure air from a colder spot then stock. The 2 liter will always get better mileage then a 2.3 no getting around that, just have to drive with a lighter foot.
Thanks!
Hey, question for you, I tried posting this on the Mazda 3 forum but I don't ahve enough posts and I just NEED to know! My car has been making this noise for a while, and its slowly getting worse and worse. I'm PRETTY sure its just my clutch, but I'm curious what you think?
ruclips.net/video/K0xiJOfUfAE/видео.html
I couldn't really hear anything in the video, but if you clutch is going out the easiest way to tell is that the engine will rev up and the car really won't go anywhere. It's pretty obvious when it happens and usually it will go over time, but my wifes clutch in her subaru went out in just a couple of days. If the clutch is let out and the engines reving up and you aren't going anywhere or if you are driving along and it revs up without the car going faster that would be the clutch. It doesn't really make a noise perse.
ruclips.net/video/hAy0sqpzj-A/видео.html I made a video!
Mazda 3 started in 2004... Not 2003
Ebay sells a cast aluminum cosworth replica NA Intake Manifold without the butterflies I've been saving up for this I want to get it then port and polish it before installing I have a 2.3 mazda 5 minivan manual
Whats the trick after taking off the intske manifold runner flaps? My car doesnt want to idle unless i hold the gas pedal
Egr delete is $40 some say it adds 5 hp some say 10hp but it needs a tune to delete the check engine light turns on after deleting it
Hello did you use 3 inch hose because without it the air would be blocked by under shield . Right now I just have bottom of air box with no hose and under shield and it only sounds louder than it's moving . Please help 🥺 thank you
2008 2.3L S Hatch
I stumbled across your video in my quest to maintain my ride. I bought her used and done maintenance/fixes as problems came up- replaced splash shield, cleaned MAF, tires, etc.
Im really interested in the idea of an oil catch can but would it be necessary, if I clean my throttle body often?
An air oil separator is very beneficial in these cars because the PCV valve is very close to the intake manifold. The easiest way to install it is to remove the intake manifold. The main reason to add one is not to keep the throttle body clean but to prevent the engine from ingesting all that oil vapor, it lowers the octane of the fuel charge as well as mucking up the inside of the intake manifold, and coating the back of the throttle body.
Thanks. How often did you have to drain your OCC? (Btw, that MAF cleaning did wonders on my Prius)
About every 2 or 3 weeks.@@b00shi
Just finished my throttle body and MAF cleaning - my car is BRAND new. The hesitation, shuddering, and rough idle have completely stopped. I did the relearn process as well. I’m going to clean my ground contacts next. Aside from the main ground you show, where else is there an engine ground? I have some extra gauge wire for my throttle ground, what terminal ends did you use?
I used gold plated terminal ends, they are expensive but gold does not corrode, and you can find them at places that sell high end stereo stuff. For the extra grounds just look around the engine compartment, they are all over the place. Hope this helped.
I gutted both my cats and it cost me zero dollars feels like it picked up 20hp serious improvement
Very very helpfull, thank you.
Chris,
The oil air separator for non turbo instructional install video would be helpful. All the other videos are for turbo msp only. Could you created a video I'm so confused not sure which hose i need to use. My thanks.
Roberto
Roberto, really the only difference between my install and a turbo application is where I mounted the can. On most installs in a 3 you mount it down on the frame rail over by the drivers side headlight. I'm still using the stock airbox which a lot of people don't so that was in the way of the mounting of it in that spot. Also I like to put the AOS in a location that is easy to get to and easy to drain. For the hose routing, you basically are intercepting the PCV valve hose. So this is best done with the intake manifold removed. What I did is to take the stock PCV hose and cut it so it comes out at a 90 degree angle going towards the throttle body. Then attach the hose that will go to the bottom of the catch can (intake side) to the PCV valve and route it over past the throttle body and around to the bottom of the can like I have in the video. Then route the hose connected to the intake manifold side spliced into the modified (now 90 degree) stock PCV hose and route that to the top (return line) on the can. After that I just made a bracket to mount the can in the location shown in the video and you are done. Whatever you do DO NOT plumb the cam cover vent into the AOS line. I did that and the pressure it created messed up my oil rings so my engine now burns oil and I will be replacing it in the spring. These engines are very sensitive to crankcase pressure.
I will consider making a video on adding the AOS when I do the engine swap in the spring.
Hope this helps you.
Chris
Rumnhammer
Chris, thank you for the kind reply, looking forward to the engine swap.
Roberto
I couldnt seem to find any videos on the vtcs removal for this manifold. only the aluminum ones. do you keep the actuator on after you remove the flaps and shaft? if not do you just plug off the lines which I assume are vacuum lines going to the actuator?
Yes you leave the solenoid in place and the white lever with the ball fitting on is left in the hole at the end of the manifold. You can leave the solenoid and vacuum lines plugged in and the solenoid will continue to move the white lever only now it is not connected to the shaft which is no longer there. Leave everything plugged in or you will get a CEL. hope this helped, if you have any other questions feel free to ask.
Would u not recommend any of these mods if someone had cold winter's?
No not at all, I'm into my second winter after doing these and it doesn't matter how cold it is, no real difference in anything.
did any of these mods give check engine lights?
No none at all, nor should they.
What did you use to smooth out your video? I noticed the shake is mostly gone and you have side bars on the video the appears to adjust for it automatically.
Nothing. I guess RUclips sorted it out or something. This is the only video I've done that was oddly fuzzy. I guess it recorded that why but the other ones didn't..... I don't know.
Eh coolant and water have different properties broooo😮 idk if id remove the coolant from the throttle body
What are you talking about? I have not run the coolant lines on the throttle body since 2017 and even in subzero weather never had any issues.
@@Rumnhammer no issues but no purpose for removing it. Coolant always helps unless ur coolant is old and acidic
If the resistance from the throttle body to the negative battery terminal isn't registering any ohms, then wouldn't "grounding" the throttle body be a waste?
If you wanted to test this you would have to test the resistance from the normal ground for the throttle body. By adding a nice fat ground from the throttle body you are basically mimicking as if the intake manifold was aluminum, instead of the plastic that is. The plastic intake basically isolates the throttle body and forces the motor that actuates the throttle plate, to use the tiny connector wire to move the plate. This grounding defiantly works. Although if you really want it to open fast get a sprint booster. I installed one on this car and the throttle opens as fast as you want it to. I'll be having an over all update on this car fairly soon and will cover the sprint booster as part of it.
Where did you get your short shifter?
TWM shifter kit, got it directly from them. So I would check their website. They are in Canada so if you find them that is where it is coming from.
Balance shaft delete also $30 made mine accelerate faster and raised my oil pressure a little bit
This was a 2 liter so no balance shafts.
Hi, How did you connect the 3 inch hose to the front?
It just fit perfectly on the bottom of the airbox then just routed it up behind the bumper to go in front of the radiator. secured it with zip ties.
@@Rumnhammer Thank Do you have any pics of tat zip tie application? I bought the exact same hose too.
@@pauldarrigo4395 No sorry, if you look in the video I point to the spot on the bumper where the hose ends up. And you do need to remove the original big resonator to make room for the hose to route up to the spot. it is inbetween the corner of the radiator opening and the right side of the left fog light opening.
Im curious how your 03 has vvt since its a 2.0 I currently in the middle of a swap ( putting the 2.5 in ) I had to delete my vvt as my 2.0 didnt have it. I did some research and learned that 04 - 05 2.0's didnt have vvt until 06. You must have a 2.3
I misspoke in the video my car is a 2006, and now it has a 2009 engine in it.
Consider dropping the 2.5 in place. I got mine out of a 2014 fusion for $240 local pickup.
I did consider a 2.5 but since this is my daily, I needed to do a simple R&R and the 2 liter gives better mileage which was also a consideration. If I had of done the 2.5 I would have just got a Mazda one because there really is not much of a price difference these days and you don't have to change as much if you use a Ford one. You can run the 2.5 off the 2.3 ecu not so sure about using the 2 liter one.
Sorry, changing the position of the crankshaft position sensor does absolutely nothing for HP. It counts teeth, it has no effect on actual timing of the engine. Simple observation of PID data with a hand held scan tool will prove this. I heard this and tried it as an experiment, timing was NOT affected whatsoever. PCV mod is highly effective although it does not increase HP ... I would assume it keeps the engine from dropping tenths of a HP over much time helping to keep things clean internally.
how do you remove tumble valves i cant find any videos.
Remove the intake manifold, remove square rod that goes through the flaps. remove flaps and rod, replace the actuator that moved the rod but not the rod. and that is about it.
Also look for removal in the ford mondeo engine, as it is the same.
Can I sue the 6gauge wire?
Hemoltz box actually pulse tunes for proper airbox filling and movement. It's not just for noise. The reason the air horn on the box is shaped is also for increase in velocity and tuning. The hemoltz box is in the fender well, it does NOT draw hot air.
RAM air only works at speeds above 100 mph and even then it's an increase in pressure by maybe 3 percent. All you are doing is sucking in more water, dirt and bugs. These are ricer upgrades that do nothing
Tumble valves are for low rpm tuning of the intake runners for best drivability in the typical 1500-3000 roma daily driving range. Again, enginnering with purpose
The primary Helmholtz resonator is just for intake noise and nothing else, it draws from behind the front of the wheel well, but the body of the box is located in the lower engine compartment and is subject to the heat from the radiator. The spot I have the intake hose drawing from is directly behind the grill and gets nothing but cool intake air. Have you actually done any of these mods or are you just talking out of your ass?
@@JohnBoulding and again you seem to not know anything about this car at all. The tumble valves are only in there to help with emissions when you cold start the car, and are open all the time once the car reaches operating temp. Once the car is up to operating temps they are nothing but an intake restriction. Removing them has resulted in no drivability issues over the last 3 years since I did this. Stick to banjo playing and leave the car stuff to those of us who have actually earned a living doing this stuff.
Rumnhammer I've actually been working on cars since 1975, lol. RAM air effect does NOT happen below 100 MPH and after that the gain is so small it's negligible. I've owned Mazda's before they were "mazda" so thanks, but I know cars. All of these mods have been debunked numerous times by the dyno. The butt dyno is wrong most of the time. The stock airbox does an excellent job of insulating against heat and what tiny amount of heat gets in is negated but flow in the system anyway.
The rot mods with an ECU tune is where real power can be found, that's cool if you want to do all that but again, it's been debunked on dynos and I have watched dozens of them on Mazda's. Any non ECU back mod that nets 5 HP or less is well within the margin of error for A dyno.
@@JohnBoulding I didn't say anything about a RAM air effect....I was talking about removing the primary resonator, I kept the stock airbox and rerouted the intake to draw cold air from behind the grill instead of the the wheel well did you even bother to watch the video? No reply to being called out about the tumble valves? What type of car was mazda before it was mazda? What are you going to 'debunk' next whether or not the short shift kit 'actually' makes the car shift better? again stick to playing the banjo.
man i like your video but i wish that your video quality was better. next time please show us the tumble valve
Yeah, me too.
your video is pretty informative but just in the beginning I heard something not exactly correct, The aftermarket wiring upgrade is because some of the wiring in not strong enough or rated much higher than speaker wire which attach to the block, the one on the battery terminal is as you said at least 10 gauge and is good enough to leave alone however when you run alot of power it's always nice to upgrade the wire from the Alternator as well and as you showed the throttle body but for people who run big stereo's or other aftermarket you would upgrade to 4 gauge but your battery terminal is still good and yes you always want to clean behind it to get the best connection.. I agree there are a lot of restrictive or unnecessary parts because these cars have horrible air intake and yes i agree a short cold air is a waste because it does not have a box to keep it out of the hot air but short is not the only option for these cars. The original cold air intake is not cheap by far and only free if you catch a kid in a accident somewhere but the long one you remove the air box and it actually mounts just behind the vent in the drivers side wheel well where the vents are to actually get the cooler air from the road and not just transmit heat into the intake like a short one does and again unless you can make a box in place of the filter box so it pulls the air off the road it is a waste..
Some of your information is very clear of why I am curious about some of your moves to me with some of it like removing the tumbler valves and a few others wouldn't you set off your engine light with repeat codes or at least a pretty long list of things. I know i have made very little moves on some of them and I keep getting new codes , I have one code i have done everything but replace the intake and it keeps coming back. I can't say you don't know whats going on especially when everyone likes free upgrades but over all good video .
I would like to know more about the catch can that you bought, you made a great list of what you did but not who or where you bought other than in the video
Paragraph breaks. Your next mod
The factory intake is the most efficient intake for these cars. That as well has been proven
CS sri or nithin🥱
I like corksport intakes. Just don't like Short ram. My cold air intake outside the bay sounds really good.
I got the intake manifold off and on in less then an hour, one of the easier ones though I'm a mechanic
The ground on the starter will not cause a stalling problem. The starter turns the engine over during the starting process. That's it. After the car starts as soon as you let the key go the starter doesnt do anything. If it's cranking slow or not at then it might be the starter. Any stalling has zero to do with a starter.
What exactly are you talking about??? I didn't mention anything about stalling........
HOW THE CAR HOLDING UP ?
Very well, one of these days I'll do an update video since I've done all the things I outline and several more. The car runs great and is fun to drive.
best way to gain more HP , buy a car with more HP :)))) magic done
man what, i havent founs this much information on the car anywhere i just wonder how you know all these little things
30 years of working on cars and lots of research. The basic Mazda 3 is very good right out of the box, so little things make it all the better. I really need to do an update video after getting all the mods done. This car is my daily and if you have to have a commuter car, you may as well have one that is fun to drive.
You wanna optimize. 2.5 swap it and boost it.
There is no 03 mazda 3. They started in 04
Why would I boost a 2.5? Why not just swap in a Mazdaspeed 3 drivetrain? And this car is a 2006 have you done anything other then just paint your intake manifold and put an intake on your car that actually hurts performance? What level of experience do you have? Or are you just a troll?
@@Rumnhammer because the speed 3 setup isn't compatible with the regular 3 ecu due to disi heads and such. Plus that's to easy just buy a speed. Built not bought. I do it because I can. It may be easier to buy a speed. But not cheaper. As I do all the work I have saves 1000s of $s. And the disi setup is a headache I'd rather not get. The disi engine is garbage just like the 2.3 na they all use 2.5 blocks with the disi head too.
I didn't mean to come off as an asshole. 1 bit. Sometimes I can be harsh. Just in general some of these mods just don't help anything.
Now that i look at it you can replace the manifold with itbs imagine it
Late, but someone did do it with a duratec swapped escort, same engine for the most part.
So basically most of these mods apply to the Mazda 6?
If it has a 4 cylinder then yes. It would.
I did a couple things that you suggested a d put it back together and isn't getting fuel on startup and won't stay running so how much of that is bullshit a d you just don't know what you are talking about.
Well you can start by telling what is was you did, before saying I don't know what I'm talking about..... The next thing I would suggest is you undo whatever it is you did, and make sure you didn't leave something unplugged ie vacuum line, or connector. Then reply back. PS it is not my fault if you do that, as I can't control the skill level of anybody who decides to modify their car.
Yeah I apologize for the remarks. There's no excuse for that. It was hot out today and I was frustrated. Also I do know how to work on cars. I haven't done it for awhile but have been doing it for as long as I can remember. The problem is the intake hose tore while trying to remove it. The oil vapor line from the valve train empties into it at about the center of the intake hose. Now that is the only current issue. However unless the open oil vapor line needs to be plugged or the intake hose absolutely needs to be connected, It should start. It starts to turn over then the fuel flow stops and it dies. I don't see a vacuum issue unless the vapor line has to be plugged or reconnected. That is the only thing that needs to be done. What i did was removed the throttle body to clean out the inside and was going to do the air box mod, clean the ground connections and run the ground to the throttle body but never got that far. Thanks in advance if you can tell me what the problem is and you can tell me I"m a dumb ass if you like. I deserve it.
You can run the line from the valve train to the open air but if you do, the end at the intake needs to be capped. if that makes any sense. DO NOT cap or restrict the line coming out of the valve cover, it wiil mess up the engine. If you took off the throttle body you should check the gasket behind it is in good shape. Still sounds like a vacuum leak or something is not connected. Also check the vapor purge solenoid, if it is not working and you have a full tank of gas the car will be hard to start. I'm sure it is something simple.
I plugged the line and it got a little better but still won't start. Could be throttle body gasket. I never really totally removed it from the intake. Well I pulled it back a little just enough to clean the inside and put it back together. I never disconnected any lines or sensors from it just pulled it back a little. Crap I guess I will have to pull it apart again and check the gasket.
i bought my car with a super touchy throttle so i feel like they did what u did