There is some really, really good info in this vid for sure not going to lie, but this line soured it a bit for me ..."If you want you car to start and drive as normal, don't get ITBs" ... cmon man its not that bad surely? Slightly hyperbole or maybe scaring people off to gatekeep the itb cool factor maybe? Its not that hard, and its not that painful. I have the old hummelink 4age kit and it was an absolute breeze to fit and drives mostly like a normal car, starts on the key everytime. A lot of thought went into that kit and Nils did an excellent job of it. Okay no coolant re-route here (not needed) so that helped fitting a bit, but never once thought about yeeting the kit out of the window. I've been working on cars on and off for a few years but nothing serious, and had no experience with ITBs, tuning or major engine work and its really not that bad. Re-loomed most of the original wiring, made my own mini loom for major sensors inc TPS and learnt VE tuning from a number of books and so far, so good🤞🏻. I don't consider myself a genius or a wizard tuner, a moderately intelligent person maybe but even then thats a stretch 😂.
Trust me, this would have been far easier without a coolant reroute, which is why I was so insistant on making it clear. I didn't have any real running issues with the 4age kit and I agree that Nils makes a great product which is why I got his current kit. Having installed both kits I can tell you that the new kit is far easier, primarly from the extra room you have underneth it. I may have sounded a bit hyperbolic but that is for a reason, I do my videos to help people with problems that I have run into when I do things like this kit, sorting out guns etc I have a ton of experience (40+ years at this point) and when I find something that I have to sort out and find an easier solution to get it done, I'm assuming that others will run into this same thing an most likey they don't have the experience to find a solution for it. I always have to assume that you are teaching to the person that has the least amount of experience if that makes sense. Right now the car is starting and running just fine, without an IAC valve since it is summer and warm idle doesn't take long, I intend to incorporate an IAC valve and retune to allow for that in the fall. What I want people to know going in is that the car will not start and run as easy as their car will stock, especially if they put this on in the winter and don't have an IAC valve and the tuning squared away. Believe me I don't like when people gatekeep, I'm just assuming that people don't have any experience and don't want them to get in over their heads and then be frustrated. Better to give plenty of forwarning then to have people put in a situation where they need to end of paying someone to finish a job. I had other issues with the initial install that I didn't list, like having to make the new throttle cable bracket, and having the rod hitting the oil pressure sender, not removing the alternator on the first install etc. My goal in a nutshell was not to scare people away, but to let them know what to expect.
@@Rumnhammer That makes sense, I understand the idea of speaking also to lowest common denominator when it comes to this stuff but I certainly wouldn't want to put people off, I remember the thread on club roadster (great 4age itb resource) and having a large group solving each others issues is fantastic to see. I'm definitely more of a dive right in type person but I also have a lot of patience for these things, and don't have or give myself time constraints which I think is very important. I think theres certainly more faff when it comes to the NA8/NB engine compared to the NA6 though as it really wasn't that bad. Personally I tend to advise against the coolant reroute, I'm not convinced it really makes that much difference compared to uprating the rad and refreshing everything with new parts and hoses. The sensor that feeds the dash gauge/ecu is in the back of the head and you can take a feed of the front rad hose and a seperate gauge if needed, dial in the engine protection/trims you need in the ecu (link is amazing for this) and keep your eye on the temps should be fine unless you live in a desert type climate (I understand we are kinda lucky not to get the crazy temps you guys often get).
Hi there! first I'd like to say your comment is inspiring for me since I've been researching how to install my ITBs and how to tune for a long while now which is the older Hummelink kit probably like yours and it has always seemed a bit complicated to me so your words give me a bit more confidence. I'm mainly waiting until I can finish my BP4W head that I intend on swapping onto my 95 NA bottom end and I have to save up for the valves, springs, guides, etc. Luckily I'm an engine machinist so the machine work is free. 😂 Anyway to get to the point. What books specifically do you recommend to help me along? Thanks!
@@LukaLukaaa Not too sure what books I could recommend, I have 40 years experience working on cars that helped with my install. Given that, as long as you don't have a coolant reroute and since you are going to have a BP4W head you probably won't have some of the fitment issues that I had. I can say that the reason I make RUclips videos is to help people over the rough parts that I had so you don't have to deal with them. I can't recommend any books per se, but if you have any questions at all do not hesitate to ask me. Having installed both Hummelink kits, I feel qualified to guide you. In fact if you friend me on Facebook you can direct message me. Good luck on your install, and check out my other Hummelink review video where I go over both kits and outline some of the difficultys I had with the early kit.
We followed the Greg Peters solution for adding AN fittings to the valve cover after increasing the size of the holes inside the valve cover baffles. Then we removed the PCV altogether, running both sides into an Evil energy vent to atmosphere catch can.
You shouldn't need to get rid of the A/C unless your horns are absolutely long for whatever reason, you CAN use a coolant reroute with ITBs, I have done it and it works just fine. That is as far as I got with the video honestly, will need to watch this more to see what else you have stated
In case you didn't notice this car has a coolant reroute, it just makes fitment far more difficult then it needs to be, for not much benefit. I would not have done the reroute if we had not have had the engine out to rebuild it. As for the AC, we left everything else other then the hard lines in place since they were the only thing getting in the way of using a filter and being able to easily remove it. In the future we plan on just fabricating some custom lines to get the AC back.
I do definitely want to do some power mods on my car like maybe porting the heads and probably larger cams but how would you hook in the AICV? where would that go or sit? (NA8)
Thanks for the most thorough itb mx5 video on the web
Can't wait to hear it when it's all tuned up for full rpm
You guys have air conditioning ?
There is some really, really good info in this vid for sure not going to lie, but this line soured it a bit for me ..."If you want you car to start and drive as normal, don't get ITBs" ... cmon man its not that bad surely?
Slightly hyperbole or maybe scaring people off to gatekeep the itb cool factor maybe? Its not that hard, and its not that painful. I have the old hummelink 4age kit and it was an absolute breeze to fit and drives mostly like a normal car, starts on the key everytime. A lot of thought went into that kit and Nils did an excellent job of it. Okay no coolant re-route here (not needed) so that helped fitting a bit, but never once thought about yeeting the kit out of the window.
I've been working on cars on and off for a few years but nothing serious, and had no experience with ITBs, tuning or major engine work and its really not that bad. Re-loomed most of the original wiring, made my own mini loom for major sensors inc TPS and learnt VE tuning from a number of books and so far, so good🤞🏻. I don't consider myself a genius or a wizard tuner, a moderately intelligent person maybe but even then thats a stretch 😂.
Trust me, this would have been far easier without a coolant reroute, which is why I was so insistant on making it clear. I didn't have any real running issues with the 4age kit and I agree that Nils makes a great product which is why I got his current kit. Having installed both kits I can tell you that the new kit is far easier, primarly from the extra room you have underneth it. I may have sounded a bit hyperbolic but that is for a reason, I do my videos to help people with problems that I have run into when I do things like this kit, sorting out guns etc I have a ton of experience (40+ years at this point) and when I find something that I have to sort out and find an easier solution to get it done, I'm assuming that others will run into this same thing an most likey they don't have the experience to find a solution for it. I always have to assume that you are teaching to the person that has the least amount of experience if that makes sense. Right now the car is starting and running just fine, without an IAC valve since it is summer and warm idle doesn't take long, I intend to incorporate an IAC valve and retune to allow for that in the fall. What I want people to know going in is that the car will not start and run as easy as their car will stock, especially if they put this on in the winter and don't have an IAC valve and the tuning squared away. Believe me I don't like when people gatekeep, I'm just assuming that people don't have any experience and don't want them to get in over their heads and then be frustrated. Better to give plenty of forwarning then to have people put in a situation where they need to end of paying someone to finish a job. I had other issues with the initial install that I didn't list, like having to make the new throttle cable bracket, and having the rod hitting the oil pressure sender, not removing the alternator on the first install etc. My goal in a nutshell was not to scare people away, but to let them know what to expect.
@@Rumnhammer That makes sense, I understand the idea of speaking also to lowest common denominator when it comes to this stuff but I certainly wouldn't want to put people off, I remember the thread on club roadster (great 4age itb resource) and having a large group solving each others issues is fantastic to see. I'm definitely more of a dive right in type person but I also have a lot of patience for these things, and don't have or give myself time constraints which I think is very important. I think theres certainly more faff when it comes to the NA8/NB engine compared to the NA6 though as it really wasn't that bad. Personally I tend to advise against the coolant reroute, I'm not convinced it really makes that much difference compared to uprating the rad and refreshing everything with new parts and hoses. The sensor that feeds the dash gauge/ecu is in the back of the head and you can take a feed of the front rad hose and a seperate gauge if needed, dial in the engine protection/trims you need in the ecu (link is amazing for this) and keep your eye on the temps should be fine unless you live in a desert type climate (I understand we are kinda lucky not to get the crazy temps you guys often get).
Hi there! first I'd like to say your comment is inspiring for me since I've been researching how to install my ITBs and how to tune for a long while now which is the older Hummelink kit probably like yours and it has always seemed a bit complicated to me so your words give me a bit more confidence.
I'm mainly waiting until I can finish my BP4W head that I intend on swapping onto my 95 NA bottom end and I have to save up for the valves, springs, guides, etc. Luckily I'm an engine machinist so the machine work is free. 😂
Anyway to get to the point. What books specifically do you recommend to help me along? Thanks!
@@LukaLukaaa Not too sure what books I could recommend, I have 40 years experience working on cars that helped with my install. Given that, as long as you don't have a coolant reroute and since you are going to have a BP4W head you probably won't have some of the fitment issues that I had. I can say that the reason I make RUclips videos is to help people over the rough parts that I had so you don't have to deal with them. I can't recommend any books per se, but if you have any questions at all do not hesitate to ask me. Having installed both Hummelink kits, I feel qualified to guide you. In fact if you friend me on Facebook you can direct message me. Good luck on your install, and check out my other Hummelink review video where I go over both kits and outline some of the difficultys I had with the early kit.
@@Rumnhammer Thank you very much! I just might have some questions down the line when I can finally start on my install 🤠
How have you run your pvc valve system? It looks great!
We followed the Greg Peters solution for adding AN fittings to the valve cover after increasing the size of the holes inside the valve cover baffles. Then we removed the PCV altogether, running both sides into an Evil energy vent to atmosphere catch can.
thank you for this info !
You shouldn't need to get rid of the A/C unless your horns are absolutely long for whatever reason, you CAN use a coolant reroute with ITBs, I have done it and it works just fine. That is as far as I got with the video honestly, will need to watch this more to see what else you have stated
In case you didn't notice this car has a coolant reroute, it just makes fitment far more difficult then it needs to be, for not much benefit. I would not have done the reroute if we had not have had the engine out to rebuild it. As for the AC, we left everything else other then the hard lines in place since they were the only thing getting in the way of using a filter and being able to easily remove it. In the future we plan on just fabricating some custom lines to get the AC back.
@Rumnhammer i noticed it. It doesn't make it any harder, and reroute are always recommended. Filter part i understand.
ac is gone already Itbs and all gear on the bench just fitting them left and tuning
I do definitely want to do some power mods on my car like maybe porting the heads and probably larger cams but how would you hook in the AICV? where would that go or sit? (NA8)
You can attach it to the end of the vaccum block then it can bleed air into the throttle bodies.
@Rumnhammer ah that is helpful... and did you figure out that it was the wrong way round for intake and exit on the IACV?
@@Gtdubsterx7 Haven't got around to fitting it back yet.
You can run the car without iacv. I have no experience on itb, but with single throttle bodies. My turbo miata manages the idle with engine timing.
Thanks