Great repair. If you are having problems removing a throughhole component that you were intending to change, then to avoid damaging the PCB, simply snip the legs off on the component side and then you can easily remove the pins with an iron and some tweezers and then easily clear the holes afterwards with some braid or a mechanical or electrical sucker.
🙌 Thank you so much for sharing this detailed tutorial on fixing the Panasonic 8 Blink error on the TC-P50UT50 model! 📺🔧 Your step-by-step explanation and thorough troubleshooting process really helped me understand how to tackle similar issues with my own TV. 🛠💡 I appreciate the effort you put into cleaning, replacing components, and ensuring a long-lasting repair. Keep up the fantastic work! 👍🌟 With your expertise in repairing electronics showcased in this video, do you have any plans to expand your channel to cover more advanced repair techniques or perhaps delve into reviewing different electronic devices? 🤔🔍 I'm curious to know if there are any exciting developments in store for your channel's content in the future! 🚀✨
So we had tried to post different content regarding other devices but most people didn't understand what those devices were and didn't have as much interest. So we started a new channel called Nick's Electronics Repair which covers random electronics. We also have a different style with less editing there. You can check it out here: ruclips.net/channel/UCs_ALha5vs9lc0y-VeVrsyQ
@@NicksTVRepair Thanks for sharing! 🙌🔧 Do you have any exciting plans or projects in mind for Nick's Electronics Repair? 🛠📺 Looking forward to seeing more of your repair expertise in action! Keep up the great work on both channels! 👍✨
Well aside from just fixing more electronics I can't say I have other plans. We are going to keep fixing NAS devices, and Oven control boards as those are very popular and in high demand, but we are also trying to expand into more automotive repairs, and other appliances such as refrigerators, washers and dryers. Do you have anything specific you are looking for?
A BIG thank you for doing these videos, I have the exact same tv which I love with the exact same problem (corrosion in the same ground contact) my tv turns on, displays an image for some seconds and then randomly turns off with the 8 blink code, will try to repair it again today Note: before this vid I was suspecting about the SS board because when the TV is turned on if I disconnect SS board it stops turning off
If you get a proper picture for a few seconds then your SS board is probably okay but I would recommend cleaning out the ground contacts for sure. I would also recommend pressing and holding the power button for 10 seconds after the 8 blink occurs and then release. This will reset the TV. If the 8 blinks still occur after the screen comes up for a short period of time it's actually possible you have a mainboard failure.
@@NicksTVRepair you're right, I realized there is something wrong with main board; however, believe it or not when pushing down heat sink it stopped turning off 😂... Well I managed to add some pressure to the A-board CPU and problem solved (maybe an overheat issue) but thanks again I really love this TV because of its stunning image and motion clarity keep up with your great work!
This is Great to know someone out there can still fix these Awesome Plasma TV boards,I have 2 GT30's one 55" and one 65" both front 2011 these Plasma TV's have a BETTER picture than my LG CX Oled and I would like for them to live as long as possible. I learned the hard way about the screws loosening up causing board failure(7 blink) on the 55 approx 7 years ago and had it repaired at a local electronics repair shop(that is closed now). Since then approx every 2 years I remove the backs and re tighten all board to chassis screws. So far so good. However I have bookmarked your site for if/when I ever need service on one of these or the LG,and based on your LG OLED repair video it seems like I am on borrowed time for that thing too. Do you have any other advice for the Plasmas or OLED to help them live longer?
For your OLED LG it would be advanced and risky but I would recommend removing the heatsink and old crusty thermal past and putting high-end MX-6 instead. The old paste on there will be rock hard and removing it will require chemicals and to be very gentle because the CPU has very small SMD caps on it also covered in that very hard crusty paste. it's very easy to damage the CPU while replacing the paste which is why I say to be careful. We have a system put in place to remove it using an ultra-sonic cleaner, and several chemicals to loosen it up. Without that, it's almost assured the CPU will get damaged so I almost don't recommend you do that. I have heard of people cutting a hole in their back cover where the mainboard is and having a small fan blowing at it. It's a bit extreme but that would help ensure a longer life to the set. As for your Panasonic, I would recommend lock washers for the screws.
@@NicksTVRepair Thanks for your response,so realistically use the OLED until it has a failure then contact you guys for repair/replacement of the failed board or just replace the TV as this level of repair is well above my skill level and this OLED has been a dissapointment(picture quality) since I got it when compared to the Plasmas viewing 1080P or lower resolution content,and 4k/HDR isn't much better. It will be 4 years old in Dec. I do use a fan to move air across the back of the 55" Plasma to help keep it cooler,I dont use the 65"Plasma enough for this to be an issue and I have seen updated repair kits have lock washers. I have actually thought about cutting the back open on the Plasma over the board that gets hot. The next time I perform my "Screw Maintenance" if they are still available I will look into the updated screws and lock washers. Again I wasn't sure anyone was still repairing these Plasma TV boards,hopefully I wont need to but it good to know that currently you guys still are.
@@NicksTVRepairHe means " Awesome" The real word is "Jabardast" which means the way of saying the work is Better than the Best. I am From India and we use the word to appreciate the work.😅
I totally agree with @antoniomrubio, the best TV repair channel on RUclips! Do you ever use low-temperature solder when you have problems desoldering components? Sure, it's more expensive to use, but it could probably help remove components more gently? Unless it's not recommended. I don't have enough experience to tell, but curious to know.
So when it comes to his topic some of my techs will say that I am stubborn. So we have plenty of low-melt solder, but I do not use it because I don't believe it helps. Some of my techs disagree with me but it doesn't make sense to me. If I have high melt solder on a board, adding low melt solder to it won't all of a sudden lower the high melt solder's actual melting point. The melting point will still be high and I'll just have a bunch of liquid low-melt solder sitting on top of none molten high-melt solder. It's still going to require me to get to that high temp to remove the high temp solder. Adding flux to help the heat transfer from my solder tip to the high melt solder seems like a more efficient solution in my mind than using a larger solder iron tip. I probably should have used a better soldering iron tip perhaps. Let me know if you have any other info on this. I am open to changing my mind but so far it seems to be mostly opinions and prefferences for people that use it. I haven't really seen any concrete evidence that it really does help. Also to be clear I have a different stance on the leaded solder that I add in the video mostly because the leaded solder I add in the video has a rosin core aka flux. So by adding that solder im also adding flux. Really I should just have added only flux and didn't really need to add solder on that one joint.
@@NicksTVRepair I really like the reasoning you use, and since I'm not an expert on the subject at this moment, I think I'll do some tests with : 1- With Rosin and the desoldering wick only, 2- With flux and the desoldering wick only, 3- With low solder only, 4- With the soldering iron and the desoldering wickonly, just to see the differences. (That one will be awful) I'll share my results. Since low solder is more expensive, I'll have a better idea of the best method to follow at the lowest cost. I have some donor board to play with. Thanks
@NicksTVRepair : (Quick test results) > I've just noticed, with the low melt solder, that we need to increase the iron temperature so that the low melt solder mixes with the high melt. But what I've just noticed is that the low melt solter adds a property to the high melt that slows down the hardening process. It left me a few seconds to remove the piece without the soldering wick. Then, with flux and the soldering wick, I was able to clean all the parts without damaging the vias. That said, the vias are perfect (plus value), but it cost me low melting solder, flux and the soldering wick to clean them all up for the next piece. Another observation is that I kept the heat applied for longer periods on the vias in order to mix the 2 types of solder well, against less time, and in sequence, with flux or rozin and soldering wick. But with a little more difficulty in removing the piece. I also noticed that if the legs of the part were laying on the board rather than standing upright, I damaged a vias, whereas with the low-melt solder mix, I was able to remove the part without damaging it because of the few seconds it remained molten. As I've already said, I'm no expert, so I hope I've done the best that I could. Here are my first observations.
Great repair. If you are having problems removing a throughhole component that you were intending to change, then to avoid damaging the PCB, simply snip the legs off on the component side and then you can easily remove the pins with an iron and some tweezers and then easily clear the holes afterwards with some braid or a mechanical or electrical sucker.
Yup that is also a good approach.
Teşekkürler efendim. İşçiliğiniz örnek ve nitelikli. Tebrikler.
🙌 Thank you so much for sharing this detailed tutorial on fixing the Panasonic 8 Blink error on the TC-P50UT50 model! 📺🔧 Your step-by-step explanation and thorough troubleshooting process really helped me understand how to tackle similar issues with my own TV. 🛠💡 I appreciate the effort you put into cleaning, replacing components, and ensuring a long-lasting repair. Keep up the fantastic work! 👍🌟
With your expertise in repairing electronics showcased in this video, do you have any plans to expand your channel to cover more advanced repair techniques or perhaps delve into reviewing different electronic devices? 🤔🔍 I'm curious to know if there are any exciting developments in store for your channel's content in the future! 🚀✨
So we had tried to post different content regarding other devices but most people didn't understand what those devices were and didn't have as much interest. So we started a new channel called Nick's Electronics Repair which covers random electronics. We also have a different style with less editing there. You can check it out here:
ruclips.net/channel/UCs_ALha5vs9lc0y-VeVrsyQ
@@NicksTVRepair Thanks for sharing! 🙌🔧 Do you have any exciting plans or projects in mind for Nick's Electronics Repair? 🛠📺 Looking forward to seeing more of your repair expertise in action! Keep up the great work on both channels! 👍✨
Well aside from just fixing more electronics I can't say I have other plans. We are going to keep fixing NAS devices, and Oven control boards as those are very popular and in high demand, but we are also trying to expand into more automotive repairs, and other appliances such as refrigerators, washers and dryers.
Do you have anything specific you are looking for?
Absolutely the best tv repair channel on RUclips!
Wow, thanks!
A BIG thank you for doing these videos, I have the exact same tv which I love with the exact same problem (corrosion in the same ground contact) my tv turns on, displays an image for some seconds and then randomly turns off with the 8 blink code, will try to repair it again today
Note: before this vid I was suspecting about the SS board because when the TV is turned on if I disconnect SS board it stops turning off
If you get a proper picture for a few seconds then your SS board is probably okay but I would recommend cleaning out the ground contacts for sure. I would also recommend pressing and holding the power button for 10 seconds after the 8 blink occurs and then release. This will reset the TV. If the 8 blinks still occur after the screen comes up for a short period of time it's actually possible you have a mainboard failure.
@@NicksTVRepair you're right, I realized there is something wrong with main board; however, believe it or not when pushing down heat sink it stopped turning off 😂... Well I managed to add some pressure to the A-board CPU and problem solved (maybe an overheat issue) but thanks again I really love this TV because of its stunning image and motion clarity keep up with your great work!
The precautions and post cautions You have taken are really Appreciated 👍
Absolutely!
For plasma TVs proper grounding is essential.
Nice job nick
Thank you
This is Great to know someone out there can still fix these Awesome Plasma TV boards,I have 2 GT30's one 55" and one 65" both front 2011 these Plasma TV's have a BETTER picture than my LG CX Oled and I would like for them to live as long as possible. I learned the hard way about the screws loosening up causing board failure(7 blink) on the 55 approx 7 years ago and had it repaired at a local electronics repair shop(that is closed now). Since then approx every 2 years I remove the backs and re tighten all board to chassis screws. So far so good. However I have bookmarked your site for if/when I ever need service on one of these or the LG,and based on your LG OLED repair video it seems like I am on borrowed time for that thing too. Do you have any other advice for the Plasmas or OLED to help them live longer?
For your OLED LG it would be advanced and risky but I would recommend removing the heatsink and old crusty thermal past and putting high-end MX-6 instead. The old paste on there will be rock hard and removing it will require chemicals and to be very gentle because the CPU has very small SMD caps on it also covered in that very hard crusty paste. it's very easy to damage the CPU while replacing the paste which is why I say to be careful. We have a system put in place to remove it using an ultra-sonic cleaner, and several chemicals to loosen it up. Without that, it's almost assured the CPU will get damaged so I almost don't recommend you do that.
I have heard of people cutting a hole in their back cover where the mainboard is and having a small fan blowing at it. It's a bit extreme but that would help ensure a longer life to the set.
As for your Panasonic, I would recommend lock washers for the screws.
@@NicksTVRepair Thanks for your response,so realistically use the OLED until it has a failure then contact you guys for repair/replacement of the failed board or just replace the TV as this level of repair is well above my skill level and this OLED has been a dissapointment(picture quality) since I got it when compared to the Plasmas viewing 1080P or lower resolution content,and 4k/HDR isn't much better. It will be 4 years old in Dec. I do use a fan to move air across the back of the 55" Plasma to help keep it cooler,I dont use the 65"Plasma enough for this to be an issue and I have seen updated repair kits have lock washers. I have actually thought about cutting the back open on the Plasma over the board that gets hot. The next time I perform my "Screw Maintenance" if they are still available I will look into the updated screws and lock washers. Again I wasn't sure anyone was still repairing these Plasma TV boards,hopefully I wont need to but it good to know that currently you guys still are.
Great job
Thank you
Zabar10
not sure what you mean
@@NicksTVRepairHe means " Awesome" The real word is "Jabardast" which means the way of saying the work is Better than the Best. I am From India and we use the word to appreciate the work.😅
@@shivasisdash7343 yes sir Zabar10 means =excellent .
Short form excellent =funny means Zabar10
Well then excellent ! haha Thank you
I totally agree with @antoniomrubio, the best TV repair channel on RUclips!
Do you ever use low-temperature solder when you have problems desoldering components? Sure, it's more expensive to use, but it could probably help remove components more gently? Unless it's not recommended. I don't have enough experience to tell, but curious to know.
So when it comes to his topic some of my techs will say that I am stubborn. So we have plenty of low-melt solder, but I do not use it because I don't believe it helps. Some of my techs disagree with me but it doesn't make sense to me.
If I have high melt solder on a board, adding low melt solder to it won't all of a sudden lower the high melt solder's actual melting point. The melting point will still be high and I'll just have a bunch of liquid low-melt solder sitting on top of none molten high-melt solder. It's still going to require me to get to that high temp to remove the high temp solder.
Adding flux to help the heat transfer from my solder tip to the high melt solder seems like a more efficient solution in my mind than using a larger solder iron tip.
I probably should have used a better soldering iron tip perhaps.
Let me know if you have any other info on this. I am open to changing my mind but so far it seems to be mostly opinions and prefferences for people that use it.
I haven't really seen any concrete evidence that it really does help.
Also to be clear I have a different stance on the leaded solder that I add in the video mostly because the leaded solder I add in the video has a rosin core aka flux. So by adding that solder im also adding flux. Really I should just have added only flux and didn't really need to add solder on that one joint.
@@NicksTVRepair I really like the reasoning you use, and since I'm not an expert on the subject at this moment, I think I'll do some tests with :
1- With Rosin and the desoldering wick only,
2- With flux and the desoldering wick only,
3- With low solder only,
4- With the soldering iron and the desoldering wickonly, just to see the differences. (That one will be awful)
I'll share my results. Since low solder is more expensive, I'll have a better idea of the best method to follow at the lowest cost. I have some donor board to play with. Thanks
@NicksTVRepair : (Quick test results) > I've just noticed, with the low melt solder, that we need to increase the iron temperature so that the low melt solder mixes with the high melt. But what I've just noticed is that the low melt solter adds a property to the high melt that slows down the hardening process. It left me a few seconds to remove the piece without the soldering wick. Then, with flux and the soldering wick, I was able to clean all the parts without damaging the vias.
That said, the vias are perfect (plus value), but it cost me low melting solder, flux and the soldering wick to clean them all up for the next piece.
Another observation is that I kept the heat applied for longer periods on the vias in order to mix the 2 types of solder well, against less time, and in sequence, with flux or rozin and soldering wick. But with a little more difficulty in removing the piece.
I also noticed that if the legs of the part were laying on the board rather than standing upright, I damaged a vias, whereas with the low-melt solder mix, I was able to remove the part without damaging it because of the few seconds it remained molten.
As I've already said, I'm no expert, so I hope I've done the best that I could.
Here are my first observations.
Wow that's awesome! Thanks for sharing these results Jean Marc!
Used always to buy Panasonic TVs but they are rubbish now.