Nice repair. You got a new sub. I see quite a lot of the unleaded solder joints on appliance control boards and vehicle PCBs cracking. Reworking with leaded solder is my go-to.
Nice repair except for not removing all of the carbon. It’s not for aesthetic’s, carbon is conductive and it will arc to other components or traces at some point. It’s called carbon arcing.
I used Omron or similar relays that have the quick connect tab directly on top. T9AS1D22-12 That way, the heating element current doesn't go through the traces and solder joints on the board. Solder and high current don't really belong together.
@@NicksElectronicRepair Hi, If you look-up the part number in my comment, you'll see that the power connections are not solder pins for a circuit board. They are quick connect tabs that the oven wiring connects directly.
@@NicksElectronicRepair The damaged is caused by a heating element going bad and short circuit or close to short circuit. Those new stove don't have any fuses like the old ones. So the solder and copper traces become the fuse.
I'm not convinced that the damage and arc-ing with 220 has not damaged any semiconductor on that board and is only residue..but at least worth trying. Bring more :)
I use a cleaning pen with a coarse fiberglass insert. They are fantastic for cleaning up damage like this, but be aware of the fiberglass particles and vacuum them away (don't blow).
Thanks again Nick, I keep learning new techniques from watching your videos. Ex: when you left the biggest solder joint on the relay at the end because it would be easier to remove it by simply heating it up, which makes it easier to remove the remaining solder once the vias are free. I would have probably battled to desolder them all before trying to remove the relay. But this is experience, so thanks so much for sharing it.
About 50% of the ones we see have a bad control IC. We test the glass diode near the IC for a for a short before performing the repair now.
Yup I was very surprised this one didn't have a bad CPU given the damage.
Nice repair. You got a new sub. I see quite a lot of the unleaded solder joints on appliance control boards and vehicle PCBs cracking. Reworking with leaded solder is my go-to.
Thanks for the sub!
Nice repair except for not removing all of the carbon. It’s not for aesthetic’s, carbon is conductive and it will arc to other components or traces at some point. It’s called carbon arcing.
Yeah if you look at prior videos we already had extensive discussion about it.
I'am impressed!😲
Thank you!
I used Omron or similar relays that have the quick connect tab directly on top.
T9AS1D22-12
That way, the heating element current doesn't go through the traces and solder joints on the board. Solder and high current don't really belong together.
"the quick connect tab directly on top"
Can you tell me more, I don't think I understand.
@@NicksElectronicRepair Hi, If you look-up the part number in my comment, you'll see that the power connections are not solder pins for a circuit board. They are quick connect tabs that the oven wiring connects directly.
Oh I see
@@NicksElectronicRepair The damaged is caused by a heating element going bad and short circuit or close to short circuit. Those new stove don't have any fuses like the old ones. So the solder and copper traces become the fuse.
I'm not convinced that the damage and arc-ing with 220 has not damaged any semiconductor on that board and is only residue..but at least worth trying. Bring more :)
Yeah honesly same. When we have this much damage the CPU is almost always shorted out. In this case it was not which is lucky.
I use a cleaning pen with a coarse fiberglass insert. They are fantastic for cleaning up damage like this, but be aware of the fiberglass particles and vacuum them away (don't blow).
Yeah if you check out some of our other videos you will see we also have one and use it sometimes.
good repair well done
Thank you!
Thanks again Nick, I keep learning new techniques from watching your videos.
Ex: when you left the biggest solder joint on the relay at the end because it would be easier to remove it by simply heating it up, which makes it easier to remove the remaining solder once the vias are free. I would have probably battled to desolder them all before trying to remove the relay.
But this is experience, so thanks so much for sharing it.
Hey I am glad to hear that! Yeah that's a small thing but it can make a big difference.