Automotive Paint Problems & Solutions - Fixing a Botched Paint Job
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- What do you do if you get a few runs, sags, dust, bugs or a bad reaction while painting a car? This video introduces automotive paint problems and solutions demonstrating one of the most common methods for fixing a botched paint job.
Tools and Materials:
Spray Gun: www.harborfrei...
Paint: www.jbtools.co...
Thinner/Reducer: Mineral Spirits
Mix Ratio: 4 parts paint to 2-3 parts mineral spirits (more or less mineral spirits can be added to get it to spray well)
Palm Sander: www.amazon.com...
Sand Paper: 1200 grit wet or dry 5" DA paper ***** 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper (hand sanding part)
Time between coats = 1 hour or when paint has flashed or looked flat/satin
PSI: 25 at the gun
Ventilation: box fan under door on low
Tack Cloth: www.ebay.com/i...
/ @lakesideautobody
Great Job Bud!! I always say " Anybody can paint, but a real Painter can fix sh!t when it get screwed up"!!☺
Same is the truth about any tradesman.
💯👍🍻
I bet they used Walmart paint on my hood lol
I do wish Wally World carried auto paint - might be a bit cheaper :)
Looks like the $10 Harbor Freight gun. Good results. It's the prep work and the person behind the gun that matter.
True - thanks. Have a good weekend my friend :)
I noticed a 6x6 of mine after I sprayed clear only that spot got like a Tetris texture revealing the primer
That rustoleum satin black looks really good.
Hi Jerry. I sprayed the hood on my car which came out badly blotchy/mottled. I did 2 coats and stopped after a failed 3rd dust coat which left it feeling rough. It's a gold metallic. Any recommendations for sanding it back? Should I strip it down with 320 and start over again or can I use whats there? I tried sanding with 600 but the paper seems to gum up quite a bit.
Wet sand with 400 grit and go at it again. If you are spraying single stage metallic get it wet on the last coat by going around twice then wait a minute (literally about 1-2 minutes) go around again with a crop dusting, mist coat making sure that it stays wet but the flakes are being evenly distributed. It's a huge timing thing and takes tons of tries. Once you get it though it's like riding a bike. Timing is key - wet enough to take more paint but dry enough to have the flakes stay put. Please let me know if you get it straightened out and if you have any ?s 👍
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks for the reply. I should have mentioned it's BC/CC. Right now i'm out of paint and waiting for more (paint store ran out of silver for the mix) In the meantime I'll wet sand it. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks!
Nice work Jerry! Recovering a botched job can sometimes be more satisfying than getting it right the first time. You liking that palm sander? It's a bargain for sure and you've been using it a while now. I've been shopping for one. I have 3/8" orbit covered with my old ND 6" DA that will probably outlive me and would like a new 3/16" orbit prep sander but finding a lot of the cheaper ones on Amazon don't list the orbit.
I love that palm sander! Cheap as dirt but smooth as heck and feels real comfortable in your hand. It's a real go to DA now - for finish work that is. I still like the National Detroit conventional da for the rough work - it's a bit more aggressive - has a weird geometry that creates that action. Always nice talking to you Icar :)
Excellent video. I primed and sprayed the bottom of my door (Panther black Ford Mondeo) and then lacquered it, all with rattle cans. I thought I had done a fairly good job but after a few days could see the primer through the paint, gutted. Not enough coats of paint. Do I need to wet sand back down to primer again or just sand the lacquer and base coat and repaint. Thank you.
You can lightly wet sand it or dry but it'll probably clog the paper (dry) - use 400. Then spray it again.
@@LakesideAutobody thank you so much for your quick reply 👍🏻 Would 400 be ok, just thought it might be a bit coarse, and would I need to take it back to the primer or not ? Thanks again.
Started to paint my truck and I thought I was ready to spray got the 1st coat on and noticed sand marks so I stopped how long do I have to wait and what grit paper should I use to save my job
Wait till the next day to be really safe and wet sand with 400 grit. It's normal to see sand scratches on the 1st coat - after that you should be fine.
@LakesideAutobody thank you hand sand or da
Thanks for the lesson, Jerry. 👍
I'm always appreciative of your taking the time to make these videos.
Not all of us are restoring a Ferrari 250 SWB, we just want a serviceable and straight repair.
Absolutely - you want to drive a respectable car or truck - something you can be proud of - have a great week and thanks for your support and you're welcome :)
i guess I'm kinda off topic but do anyone know of a good website to stream new series online ?
@Boston Nathanael flixportal :P
These freaking bots are everywhere, and now they've found your channel.
🍿It's going to be interesting to see how this unfolds.
@Clay Johnathan thank you, signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there :) Appreciate it!
Hi, could a clay bar solved this problem?
A clay bar does not have any abrasive (at least that's what I understand) so it would not be able to "knock down" or flatten out the dust nibs, sags and or runs. Good question Fritz - thanks for the comment :)
Problems to expect. 1. Water dripping out from under my gloves and tyvex suit while spraying. The fix, paper towels and a rubber band. Next time sweat bands. 2. Paint quit coming out. Reason , the little vent got clogged with paint. Discovered to late as I already dumped the last of my paint. 3. Dumped paint, stupid. Since I mixed it I thought I couldn’t save it, wrong. Hopefully most of my problems happened on my first attempt. Fixing some rust on my roof next.
Those are great mishaps - thanks for sharing. There sure are a lot of things that can go wrong but that's par for the course and what make a decent result so rewarding - like a good drive at the golf course - feels great when it happens 😊
👍🏻Nice video!!! I’ve really improved on my painting from your videos. The first paint job a few years ago was a mess, I just finished some accident repairs on my sons car and the paint job turned out almost flawlessly besides a few pieces of dust in the clearcoat. Can’t thank you enough for the tips and tricks.
I love to hear stuff like that - nice job. You will always have a few specks of dust or something - that's just par for the course. Just know that almost all jobs that leave a dealership or privately owned body shop are at least wet sanded lightly and buffed - just looks a lot better and matches the original orange peel and gloss better. So glad you enjoy the content and thanks for the support :)
I believe the paint job is better then if the body shop did it. The color match is so close and the orange peel is so minimal. I’ve found my dads old Binks gun after you talked about them, yes it puts more over spray in the air but lays the paint down nicely. I’m not a fan of the top feed guns. I average 1 to 2 paint jobs a year and miscellaneous stuff like boat trailer, utility trailers stuff like that.
Thanks again have a great weekend.
@@michaelmarusic8499 That Binks is the King - don't ever get rid of it. It's really all you'll ever need if you clean it, get familiar with the parts, and take care of it. It sprays any paint just fine. They also have rebuild kits for it and you can find them all the time on ebay. Fun gun to collect parts for. You have a good weekend too :) Jerry
Hey I sprayed the trunk lid along with front and rear valence on my 68 Shelby GT500KR. I used base/clear and the color is Raven Black and there is zero metal flake in it. They came out looking really good with very little orange peel. I sprayed 4 really good coats of clear on the parts so there is alot of clear on them. BUT I had to spray the car in my home garage and it got alot of stuff,dust/dirt nibs in it. Will I need to sand the parts back down to the base coat and shoot the clear again? I even wiped the base coat gently with a tack cloth before I sprayed the clear and alot of stuff still fell into the clear. What would you do?
I would wet sand that clear with some 1500 and spray it with clear again. You don't need a spray booth - you don't even have to wet the floor. Every bit of dust you got in your paint job was already on the panel before the first coat. Watch this video for some tips on dust free paint jobs - ruclips.net/video/gB3Hou6k8rE/видео.html
Good afternoon, can you say really screwing up paint work? I have a couple of jobs on big cars, Lincoln and Chrysler that I have lost my balance and fell into the hood and on to a top from a step stool. Definitely not my better moments. But like you said, that's what they make water sanding for. Thanks and take care. Good luck.
Wow - thanks for that story. I've had some pretty bad mistakes myself but that's par for the course. If you put yourself out there you're going to run into issues. But that's why some of the best body men/women are the ones who are real good at fixing their own mistakes :)
The reality is, things happen. Good to have a plan, ahead of time. 👍
Your right - stuff happens. Can't stop bugs in the summer - they love the smell of fresh paint :)
@@LakesideAutobody I add just a few drops of liquid off bug reppelant into the paint I've been doing this for years it helps a lot a old painter told me that back in the mid '70's when I first started working in a body shop he was one of those painters did custom work traveling from New Zealand around Europe and Canada then went back 20 years later to New Zealand... I learned a lot from Doug... Same with Bill for bodywork pick and file along with paddling lead.. and Don I the frame rack the Old Masters you don't find many of them around anymore Gary was good as well on strighting frames and body work had a few jobs with truck cabs Dimond pulling the cab straight for a few dealer ships that brought them in... I enjoyed that work better than those replace parts shops like star car smashision and better get backed oh (no names please) but there out for the buck with aftermarket parts not the quality of original parts for a restoration.. and everyone knows aftermarket quality is not the same as factory.. thinner metal, not the same fit, only for cosmetic only folds a lot faster in a collision than factory fenders or doors same with those rubber bumpers don't fit worth Cr💩p... But I really enjoy watching your videos myself I'm not into wet sanding with a orbital sander on fresh paint I'm still a wet sanding by hand and red rubber block to wipe as squeeze to see what's happening.. the a little polish ...
Some of those replacement shops don't paint the side of the car properly and you can see the color mismatch becouse insurance won't pay for the side to get painted you know fender and two doors but can't paint the 1/4
Panel.. So the paint is like night and day even with the color scanner the color is off .. but wish you the best take care and try that little trick with the liquid bug reppelant like off or deep woods in the squart bottle just a few drops does wonders...have to admit really good for rustolum paint that type of enemel usually likes to wrinkle for a re-coat ... Even seen one small project Nason urethane red dried about 7 months and touched up with tremclad red on chip and wrinkled and the Nason had activator guy had Christmas display painted but wood started to split and he touched up and it happened I recommend a little primer first just light dust coats spray bomb to seal it and use spray bomb red instead of brush next time. I suggested a gold scrubby for primer and paint to stick then dust it .
@@peterrivney552 Creative thinking with throwing a bit of OFF in the paint - interesting...... Thanks for the comment and helpful tips - good stuff. Nothing like learning from old fellas that have been there for years - they know. Have a good weekend Peter :)
Great video. My rustoleum paint job came out awesome but I can't seem to get it to shine anymore I did the compound,polish and wax but the shine only last a few days then it's back to buffing it out.any advice will be appreciated
Maybe try to clear coat it with urethane? Lightly scuff or sand it, then clear. Or try buffing and use a ceramic coating - ruclips.net/video/LMsf7ZUAda0/видео.html
Informative video but take it from me if your starting with cheap paint your already setting yourself up for failure.find an automotive paint supplier near you and ask for their “cheaper line of paint.this “cheap” paint will still be expensive but leaps and bounds better than any hardware store or advance store crap.
Yes this was just a panel I borrowed from the scrap yard - it went right back. I figure someone will be happy to find it one day :)
So today was the day i painted the front clip of the fox Mustang budget project. First time painting this much area with single stage metallic. I can see why people consider it difficult. I layed down a tack coat like u suggested in another video. I found i was holding back and some of the second coat looked dry. So i waited, then hit it with a wetter coat which seems to have done the job.
I have some dust bits, but no bugs! So i'm happy for that. Now im gonna want to gently buff out the finish at some point. Get rid of dust and minor stuff. Would 2 weeks be a safe time? There are 3 coats on it. Thanks, and i always watch all your videos and hit that like button!
If the paint has a hardener in it you can buff it the next day. Lacquer, acrylic enamel w/ hardener, urethane w/ hardener can be wet sanded and buffed the next day. To be safe though you can give it a couple of days and you'll be fine. Don't worry at all. For a first paint job and you didn't run it right onto the floor - congrats! If it looks somewhat shiny - congrats! Little bit of orange peel - awesome - that's normal. Just give it a light sanding and buff. Next time you'll do better - ask ?s on what you might be wondering about and you'll get it the next time.
Nice video Jerry.. Do you prefer mineral spirits over acetone, when mixing Rust-Oleum and why?
Thanks for sharing...
Thanks Ziggy. I have had pretty good luck with mineral spirits and acetone. The can does say use acetone these days - it used to say mineral spirits if I remember correctly. My self, I think they both work the same - maybe acetone dries a bit faster - can't prove it though.
Can you do this after two or three days
Absolutely. You can wet sand and buff cars that are many years old :)
Primer after sanding isn’t needed?
You can paint over sanded primer (240-600 grit) &/or over un sanded primer. As long as it's straight you're good to go. If that doesn't answer you ?s, ask again - Jerry
Nice job Jerry. You hit the nail on the head. Stop and walk away. If only I did that lol. Im getting better though.
It's hard - real hard. Some one should actually lock me up for a day or two after a mess up - I'd be much more successful :)
@@LakesideAutobody haha yes !
hey man nice video, im sanding my car now but paint doesn’t seem to go down i’ve tried even a 60 grit and it’s just tickling the paint still lots of shine
Are you trying to remove it or just prepare it for new paint. What are you sanding with - DA and DA Paper or just paper by hand?
@@LakesideAutobody well i wanna do new paint and yessir im using da da paper
@@604emd OK. You don't have to sand it down too much - just so that it is dull. Use your DA with 220 or 240 grit sand paper on it. It should go something like this ruclips.net/video/H6u13RUJKew/видео.html Let me know if you still have issues :)
@@LakesideAutobody awesome man that’ll definitely save me some time and money thanks really appreciate it
@@604emd No problem - feel free to ask other ?s if needed :)
Thanks for this! your videos gave me the confidence to do my own paint job on my precious vw bus. The clear coat I laid down was a bit light and didn't flow and is splotchy; do you have a video of how to fix the clear coat?
You would fix it in the same way: Let it dry over night, wet sand, prep for paint by removing all dust, and spray again. If you are getting to many dry areas try reducing the paint a bit more. Don't worry if you use more reducer than the can says. Thin your paint and clear so that you like how it is laying down. Let me know if that helps and let me know how it goes for you :)
Hey Jerry that’s the paint I want to use on my truck. Do you know what your mix ratio was?
All the information you need on that is under the description. It's hard to see unless you scroll down. This paint tends to run easy on cold days so go easy. Once you get a few coats on, you can go heavier - cheap too!
Hi Jerry great job like always I have a question for you I painted a car about one year ago with Rust oleum paint I would like to use a single stage automobile paint do I have to send all the paint off please can you let me know the process to doing this the right way thank you God and bless
If your paint from last year is still in good shape - pretty straight and is not flaking off you will be fine just using a DA sander to prep it for paint. Now there's a few ways you can go about it: 1) DA sand it, prime it, block it, prime again, finish sand and paint. 2) DA sand it, prime it, finish sand and paint. 3) DA sand it and paint. It depends on how nice you want it - heck if it's in perfect shape you can scuff it with a red scuff pad (scotch brite) and paint - let me know what you decide and ask ?s if you need to :)
@@LakesideAutobody thank you so much Jerry for getting back to me No the paint is not flaking off or nothing but I could not get good coverage because I was using the wrong air compressor to smalle only 15 gallons So I will go with sanding the car blocking the car and priming the car and then painting it with single stage I would like to use a primer that you use on one of your videos that was thick I forgot the name can you please let me know the name of it and which gun you prefer to use thank you my brother
Hi Jerry I send you a question
@@firstgenerationgarage2803 Sorry - I'm late - sometimes I don't get the notification. The primer was lacquer primer surfacer from Auto Body Master. You can use any lacquer primer surfacer or urethane primer surfacer (any brand will work). If you use urethane, some require a coat or two of epoxy first so try to buy the urethane primer surfacer that is DTM - direct to metal. Ask more ?s if needed - Jerry
Do you have any tips or tricks for painting flames or doing a patina paint job?
I feel like doing a video on painting flames. Even though I never painted them - I think I could do a half way decent job. I know you'd use fine line masking tape from like 3M and would have to sort of draw it up first. Once you have the drawing you would lay out the tape (the stuff bends real easy) . Then maybe start with one color at the base of the flame and fade into other colors near the tip of the flame. Finally throw a coat or two of clear on top. Have a good end of the week - hopefully that helped a bit. Sorry I don't have a vid on that. Jerry
Jerry great vid do you have any with the Majic paints, primer base clear
Not at the moment but I was going to pick some of that paint up and do a vid on it. I'll keep that in mind and try to get one uploaded soon :)
What is a good recommendation for fluid knob settings on an hvlp gun?
I usually have it wide open on solid colors and primer. For door jambs and controlling metallic flakes (mottling) I might turn in in to prevent too much paint coming out at time - like on the drop coat or mist coat.
Question regarding spraying base/clear over an older respray of single stage. Was thinking DA with 80 grit, then epoxy, then high build x2-3 coats, then block straight. Spray epoxy as a sealer if I break through. then shoot base/clear after finish sanding. My only concern is the epoxy over single stage. Will the epoxy be enough of a barrier to prevent lifting of the single stage when using base/clear?
Yes the epoxy will work fine over single stage. DA with 220-360 grit or 120 on pits and rougher stuff. Epoxy will not block sand - you'll have to put urethane primer surfacer over the epoxy or just go with lacquer primer surfacer or DTM 2K Urethane Primer Surfacer. If you have more ?s just ask :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks!! I’ll do epoxy and use your suggestion of DTM urethane primer in the revolt. I’ve been looking at TAMCO DTM high build. I’ve read it sands rather easy. Thank for your help. Appreciate your content. Learning a lot from you and UPK.
@@64b09 UPK is a great painter - he's a great person too :)
Surely a junkyard wouldn't try to sell that hood to anyone after it's been painted with Rust-Oleum.
If I was looking for a Dodge Raider hood in decent shape I would be elated to spot this gem for 10-20 bucks. It's all about saving $ so you have more loot to spend on other people instead of yourself - right?
@@LakesideAutobody
What I'm saying is I'd hate to have to strip that mess off and start over , just as well go aftermarket at that point.
Hey Lakeside good video. Thanks for sharing.🍁👍👍
You're welcome Andy - have a good weekend :)
VERY USEFUL INFORMATION; THANK,S AGAIN PJP
Thanks my friend - I appreciate the support :)
Nice work Jerry…enjoy your weekend!
You too :)
Just painted my car and will be reviewing your videos before tackling a run and a sag. Appreciate the solutions you demonstrate, they will certainly come in handy.
Here's a couple that'll help - ruclips.net/video/I3P1fc-Cx_Q/видео.html & ruclips.net/video/Ee0B7_soVgc/видео.html
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you Jerry. Exactly what I needed. Even when I finish my car, I will continue to watch your videos. You are an excellent instructor.
Thank you very much for the information.
Keep it up 🤙💪
You're welcome Adham - have a good week :)
Here's a single stage acrylic enamel paint issue question...
I decided to add acrylic enamel clear to the single stage.
Now to make this bond to previously sprayed paint, will wet sanding with 1000 grit be sufficient? I 'm not finding a lot online, and I want to make sure it doesn't peel off a few months down the road.
Yes it will stick. You don't have to sand it if you clear it the same day. Spray your single stage enamel, let it dry for an hour or so then clear it with you acrylic enamel clear. We used to do that all the time in the 80's. We cleared over enamel and lacquer with enamel but never lacquer over enamel as it will wrinkle.
@@LakesideAutobody thanks, hard to find people who really know acrylic enamel. Lots of differing opinions and a certain amount of contempt and misinformation
@@BearBudgetgarage I will always give you an answer that I know is absolutely correct. If I don't know, I say, "I don't know." Feel free to ask any ?s - doesn't have to match the content of the video. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody well, I had wetsanded the paint as i was not content with the texture from previous spray. Went 4 to 1 acrylic reducer, 8 to 1 wetlook hardner and this time Iwatta w400 1.4 .
The results? Minimal orange peel, smooth paint, and a happy Diy guy!
The only issue is some dust specs, so I'm going to wait, wetsand with 1000, then clear entire car with acrylic enamel clear coat. Then i will get more dust specs and cut n buff the clear. Lotta work, but I love it. Very personally rewarding to turn junk into something u can be proud of.
Thanks for the replies and tips, in the end it all came together for me. 👍👍
Good info
Thanks Anthony :)
Always spray with the length of the panel.
Sorry - I don't understand what you are saying. Thanks for the comment though :)
Great job Jerry see you on your next video stay safe
Thanks, you too Husky.
Tek kelimeyle "mükemmel". 👍
Teşekkür ederim. 😊🛠
Awesome, as always.. Thank you
Thanks Lucky :)
Hi Jerry, i just sprayed the bonnet (Hood) of my 80 Series Landcruiser this morning using Dupli Colour white that i thinned with all purpose thinners. I have been watching all your videos and learnt so much from you thank you :-). I have just checked the job now my stress levels have calmed down a bit haha and i think i may have missed a small section on the front corner curve of the hood. Your video was right on cue !!! I followed your directions and resprayed, looking better than before ..... However ... i noticed two spots where the hose must have touched the fresh paint. Can you suggest a repair without another full coat ? Many thanks.....Glen, South Australia.
Sorry about the late reply. The only choice you have if you don't wet sand and repaint is to let it dry wet sand and buff - if it's got enough paint on it. One last thing you can try is a good brush - I never have much luck with a touch up brush though. Let me know what you end up doing - Jerry - Michigan, USA
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you for your reply Jerry. After wet sanding and spraying again the result was so much better than before, plenty of paint now. Honestly your video was exactly about the problem i had that morning, amazing. Looking at the bonnet now the two little scuff marks are not so bad really. It is a shame i managed to get the hose near the edge. Looking at them i think a Q-tip and a little repeated touch up to build up a few layers and a light wet sand/buff when its dry might do the trick. I will reply at a later time and let you know how it goes. Thank you again Jerry. Glen.
@@LakesideAutobody Hi Jerry, just an update on my touch ups after touching the hose on the hood. It didn't really work so well so i will give it all a wet sand with 600 and do a re coat...... this time being very careful of where the hose is ! It is a bit difficult leaning out over the hood and maintaining the gun position.... but hey.... i am getting more practice haha .... Cheers, Glen. South Australia.
@@Glendram Great to hear - thanks for the update. Yes it's sometimes difficult to reach the middle of panels without a mistake but like you said practice, practice ... Nice talking to you :)
@@LakesideAutobody Yes, same here Jerry, i have to thank you for all the great information, helped me so much. I made sure i was fully prepared, picked up the mixed paint this morning. Gave the hood a rub over with the tack cloth and gave it 3 nice coats. Looking good and well worth the extra time and effort to get it right. No hose scrapes, that will never happen again haha, hope. I guess i can say i have sprayed 3 hoods now, rather than say the same hood 3 times :-) Good talking to you too Jerry, stay safe :-)
Great video!
Thanks - glad you enjoyed it :)
Thank you for sharing your expertise of what to do when things go sideways!
Stuff happens. If you work on stuff it just does. I just busted a radiator pulling a frame. Probably should have taken it out first but I gambled and lost 😊
@@LakesideAutobody Wow, that comes under, "I did not see that coming" huh!
On my roof project, I got all the burned clear and base coat sanded back today. I ended up going down to 220 grit paper, then 320 and 400 after that. I'll tell you what, I have a lot of respect for anyone that can do that all day long, every day! Thanks for all your help! Cheers!
@@SomeGuyInSandy Body work is good for your arms - keeps them in shape 💪😊