WATCHING U FRM LOUISVILLE, KY...SEE U HEADED TO BG, HOME OF CORVETTE MUSUEM...ALSO CHECKOUT THE NEW BUCKEY'S GAS STATION (GET THE BRISKET SAMMIE, THANK ME NOW). GOD BLESS SAFE TRIP AND MAHALO TO U AS WELL!
Great way to do ad placement, tbh. The way you integrated the ad into what you were doing made it entertaining in a way that's the exact opposite of "let's stop everything this video is about in order to tell you about this unrelated product..." Kudos for that.
Anyone saying the wood can't hold, needs to look at load span charts for lumber. A single 2x12 can carry 2160 lbs on a 12 foot span and still fall within code guidelines. Over 2000 lbs sitting on two small contact points. His ramps are not spanned, are triple 2x12s, and are fully supported sitting on the ground. Meaning it only comes down to the compressive strength of the wood(which is ridiculously high at over 10,000 psi for yellow pine) and the strength of the fasteners and glue, which are also ridiculously high. He's basically made solid logs to park vehicles on, and none of his vehicles are capable of collapsing them.
Exactly, it will hold the load. The only thing is designing it strong enough so it cannot rack itself laterally and collapse. Which looks like they have that covered.
ive set the front end of a kw 900 on a block built just like his 16k steer axle and a cummins 15l didnt budge if anything it pushed the ground down lol
Can I just say that I love how much you include your kids in the video and your work?! These boys are already very familiar with the garage and the shop and obviously have a great dad. WE NEED MORE FATHERS LIKE THESE!!!
To the people commenting, How do ya figure this is unsafe?? Those are solid and just fine, y’all have houses built on less foundation than these per foot. Relax, he’s doin just fine. Love the ramps!!
thank you. I am so surprised (still) that people open their mouths to speak as fact with no knowledge. I placed 2 16" lam beams across a 19' span when making two rooms one. 12"'s would have done the job, but I went with 16"s casue they were available. Do you know what the difference is? I could park my LEXUS ES that I drove at the time in the center and not bow my ceiling. Wood is NO JOKE.
Yeah, an engineered wood structure can be unbelievably strong and flexible if needed. I don’t think they use metal I-beams in homes anymore, it’s all wood I-beams. It’s all been tested over 100s of years. Those ramps can support 3 times that weight if not more. Big trees weigh many tons and that’s all above ground, wood is inherently strong.
100% there are cribbing supports made of crappie wood than that, that hold up, to over 80K pounds, and also with loads of people flying through the air at 60mph on carnival rides.
Yep. I made a set over 15 years ago, and some people on the forums were doubting the strength. As long as you design it right, you’ll be just fine as I was. Never a doubt it my head. Although, if I had the unlimited garage space as in the video, I would have made them wider (easier to drive on) and a platform on the front so you can stand and work under the hood if needed.
@@chupacabra3331 my only question is can the individual vertical boards supporting the load the long way pull the screws out of the short boards in between from the car being rocked side to side? I’m thinking with several construction screws and construction glue, not a problem at all
Hey brother, buy some of those retracting wheels people use to make workbenches mobile! Attach them to the large center sections, and when your done, stack the smaller pieces on top and roll them all into a corner. Beats the heck out of all the back work lugging them across the shop!
I love it, throw some grip skateboard tape on the ramps. Probably need just some strips no need to cover the whole thing just something to combat slipping when the tires are wet. Also paint them so they look cool as you will I am sure have them in the shop for awhile.
I built a set similar to this about 15 years ago to work on and under 1 ton diesel trucks. 2x12 down the middle and sides as well as across the top with a bump and stop for the front tire location. Gorilla glue and triple coated deck screws are your friends. 15 years later and hundreds of oil changes, suspension jobs, exhaust work, transmission services, etc.. still going strong. The removable center section is critical for making these useful. I pined them together using door hinges and large nails as the hinge pins so they remove easily.
The best ramps I've ever used are the ones I built. Your ramps will hold up a tank. The Southern Pine No. 2 - Design Compression Perpendicular to Grain is 565 pounds per square inch. Your ramp has 3 qty. 2x12s supporting half of a vehicle. :: 3 x 1.5 in. x 565 psi = 2543 pounds per inch of length ramp. The weight it can support is not the entire length of the ramp, but the length of the ramp under the contact area of the tires. You can add some additional length to the contact area length because the wood does spread out the load toi the ramp support, the garage floor.
I doubt they would hold up a tank. I had one of my workers remove tank service ramps about three feet off the ground and about a hundred feet long at a former Army base. Seven strands of 1 1/2 inch rebar buried in about a foot of concrete on each side.
As an automotive technician, alignments are always done by adjusting the camber first then caster and lastly toe. Also, you start with adjusting the rear first then go to the front.
Stand them up and a dolly would make them easy to store in a corner! I love the idea man. Definitely gives you clearance to comfortably work under it. And you could add jack stands to make it better if you wanted to! Great job! Tell the city to hurry up with your electrical plans!!!
Great build! Definitely waaaay overbuilt, but the best way for safety's sake. I would recommend putting something between both sides that links them together. I can see them possibly sliding on the concrete.
I seen you out at LSfest. My son noticed you before i did. He wanted to say hi but with all the people and everything going on he lost sight of you before we could head your way. We made the trip from south Louisiana ourselves! 11 hours in my 13, CTS V, manual transmission, sedan. Good times!
Nice job brother! I have a set of Quick Jacks and love them. Now I have a couple 4 post and a couple two post lifts in my shop, oil changes and maintenance to include cleaning is really easy now!!
Cool ramp the only thing missing on them are hand hold on the side I thing it will make them easier to move them around the shop and stack them but cool build
The most motivating video and your energy is awesome to show how to make a custom DIY ramp plus to detail what you do for a wheel alignment, awesome video bro 🤙
Great video!! Thanks.. As regards the time-out. The gauge holds the current reading until you zero it out again. No need to zero out again if it times out.
Construction looks solid but I would suggest, as added safety, to build some sort of cross connection to stabilize the two ramps from potentially sliding apart ( laterally away from each other) as you're driving the car onto them...after the car is centered and secure, can then remove the cross bracing similar to how the ramp center sections are removable
You can add gate or door hinges at the edge of each block to hold them together. Bolt the hinges onwhile the ramps are in place, then pull the hinge pin and take the ramps apart or to pull those inner blocks for access.
I don’t know why you don’t buy a portable, 4-post lift, for your shop. Wildfire lifts makes a good product that will fit in your shop, and it comes with casters so you can move it around inside, or outside your shop.
You can get a good second hand 2 post lift that can handle 4ton for about 1k euro, this amount of wood probably costs close to that, while achieving less flexibility, you can't even take the wheels off and service the brakes for example. for example A standard SLS 4x30 (cm) cost about 40 euro for 5m, this project needs probably about 15 of them. That will cost you 600euro, which will set you back 60% of the cost of a proper second hand 2 post lift. on top of that comes about a day of labour @ 60euro/h that would cost you about another 400 euro, this just depends on how you value your own labour.
I only had the need and room for two ramps. I just bought one solid beam. And cut it in half then at an angle. Not the prettiest in the world but they’re way past 20 years old now. Don’t know why you couldn’t just add boards to the side to make it wider. But the weight oh lord .
I love watching videos made by folks who have too much free cash! some of the ideas are awesome, and can be scaled down in $$ for the average back yard knuckle buster! Keep up the GREAT work!
Before I had seen this video, I had need for my Nissan Ultima to be raised up and level. I built smaller versions of what you have with separate ramps front and back, so I can place the ramps under the car and drive up all four ramps at the same timeworked great. I really appreciate your video. Thank you.
I 100% agree with you. This is one of my very favorite family friendly channels on RUclips. This guy is definitely a role model to be looked up to. Take care.
Here is a little safety tip that I learned. Even though you put the block of wood at the very end so you know where to stop. sometimes that just isn't enough especially with pickup trucks and SUVs. This is more for the person who's doing this by themselves. You can pick up these flags from Lowe's or Home Depot. These are the ones that some places require you to put on your vehicle when you're all floating or on your recumbent bike so people can see you. Once you buy two of them you can use some scrap pieces of 4 x 4 or 8 x 8 drill a hole almost to the bottom. Then whatever vehicle you're putting on the ramp take a measurement from the front of the tire to the end of your hood. Take that measurement and move your flag I would conservatively say 2 inches closer than your measurement. That way you have a little bit of room. The good thing about it is that you don't have to keep it there once the car is up. It takes a very little bit of space in your garage. I actually slide the wood under my toolbox and put the flags behind it. I really do enjoy your videos. My all-time favorite was watching you build your dreams garage.
If the ramps were $3,000 and you went to Lowe's for all this lumber you probably were better off just getting the $3,000 ramps I would imagine. HAHAHAHA😂 Lumber prices these days are INSANE (prices for anything really) Thanks for the fantastic video, I absolutely love your channel. Take care, Aloha ~Jonny5🥁
Cool idea. I made some 12” wide individual ramps for my truck but they are solid wood, no cavities, and they are half as high. Works great and peace of mind being 100% solid wood. Works so well a friend wanted a set too. Just need space to store them and they are super heavy.
I always put 1/16th of tow in since after the car is on the ground and rolling forward, pressure flays the bearings/tires out a bit. I feel like it handles slightly better.
Just wanted to let you know I really like the way you did that sponsor part of the video, it was really nicely meshed into the video and didn't feel like an obnoxious ad read like most of them, as a result. Great stuff!
Check out homemade tilting ramps!! These are awesome if you have the room!! Pretty much big ramps, you drive up onto and then it tilts, where a arm/brace stops it, I've seen these ramps made 5 feet tall great for working underneath
i would put some sort of removable bump stop like you did up front, so that in the event it accidently rolled back it wouldnt fall off. your safe and the car would be safe.
Love that little man went and got his drill. Helping Dad and Grandpa! My parents were separated when I was 6 months old. I've never had a bond with my dad like this. Don't take it for granted! You guys have a good thing! 🫡
as for the level why wouldn't you put the long side flush against the vertical post then just offset the measurement by 90 degrees. that would give you the best result
One thing that might help, it will add a little weight but get the tops sprayed with LINE-X. I will help with grip plus it will help if you get fluid on the top. To move them around just go get a couple of the furniture dollies from Harbor Freight and stack them up then you can wheel them around super easy. 4 dollies 2 stacks and you are set.
For the people saying these ramps aren't safe what exactly about them makes them inferior to those $30 mold plastic injected ramps you bought at Walmart to change your oil? Also look at it like this the average 3 bedroom house roof is about 5500 lbs so if it's good enough to hold the roof of your house up then it for sure strong enough to hold a 3500 lbs vehicle a couple of feet in the air
Really like the car ramps I have some basic ramps I made years ago. I wish I had the space to make bigger ones like that. It’s really nice that you overbuild like that and now you can also roll a creeper under the car. Well done. I have a tool review channel. What do you think your favorite tool is for working on your cars or house?
Are you sponsored by tough built or just a fan of their products, I went and looked at your channel and it's tough built this and tough built that and tough built this... So, just curious.
Cut some hand holds in them to make them easier to grab. You could also run a 1x2 along the outside edge to let you know if you’re getting to close to the edge.
The best homemade solution I ever saw, was my grandpa using his backhoe to dig a small trench, and just drove his truck over it. Homemade mechanic's pit.
I am so happy i came across this video i have those black walmart ramps and had them for YEARS. i want to have more room to work on my cars but didn't want to fork 3k for a lift and willing to have something like this! would probably do half the size but i want taller ramps than those short things are. Cheers!
i made much smaller wooden ramps that are 2x10s stack on top of one another with a 45 degree cut for the tire to climb up on. The beauty with this setup is I can add more levels if I wanted too. Im satisfied with mine the way I built them. They mimic the traditional car ramps from the store and I made 4 of them. They only down side to having wooden ramps like this is weight. Even with handles I've added, they each weigh about 50 lbs. I also had a problem where the ramp would slide under load when driving off or at the top when stopping. All I did was get a padded rubber mat and screwed that to the bottom of each and that solved the problem. I think I bought 10 2x10s before covid so to make the same ones today would cost me close to double.
4 месяца назад
I've done the same. Wish I built them years ago. I also built two different heights of wood cribbing which is so much easier dropping a gas tank. (posting on fem account)
I’m failing to see why the shop wasn’t able to align the car when you apparently had no problem keeping all of the suspension the same… unless this was just a way to come out with a video for us on building some ramps.
@@bashamstaysbusy4193except he said “If a professional shop couldn’t get it in spec with an alignment could an overconfident DIYer do it with a tape measure”
Most likely liability. They don't want their asses sued or have to front the bill if something gets damaged or done wrong leading to property or personal damage. It's not a matter of can't its a matter of won't
That was going to be my question also .... But going through the replies on your comment, I totally understand now. "Can't verses Won't" Thanks for clearing this up guys 👍👍 Take care and be safe out there whenever you are.
It looks like the level has a magnet built into the bottom side, maybe you could cut a section of angle iron and slap it to the bottom and the. Have a nice flat surface to but against the vertical bar?? Just a thought. I like the ramp/lift thingy, think I may make one thanks for the inspiration 👍🏻
Very cool idea i built a set of wood ramps for my Z4 to do oil changes the approach angle is stupid low. But when i go to do downpipes and upgrade the twin turbos i may have to build some box like this ive alwasy seen the stacked 2x4s but this seems way more stable for being under the vehicle for awhile.
I have racked my brain looking for a solution for my lowered street trucks in a very height challenged shop (i.e. no lift possible) and believe you have answered my prayers! Thank you for sharing my friend! New subscriber here and so glad I found your channel. 😎
There is one thing I would do differently. When building the boxes you should keep the end pieces as one piece rather than two with the center running between them. Too weak at the screw points. Run the center long piece between the two ends. Screws are weak, Period. Framing nails have shear strength. Drive a framing nail and a long screw halfway into your boards and hit each one with a hammer and see what happens.
This stinks, no place to leave a comment, seen a set many years ago that a guy made coming off his 5 foot wall and we cut his grass, so he changed everything on the ramp setup. Never had issues guy was a painter of houses for a living, so between trucks and vans and his cars, not a issue, even did work on old tractor, he doubled up on 2by12 boards and ran out to 8by8's and used 4 total with them nailed together so they didn't move, boards was set into the ground with regard that he drilled holes in them and bent the rear like a staple and banged into the ground about a foot deep. Never moved and made permanently there.
I had a race car back in the day. The alignment shops all said no, except one. They used a lift then slid the rack under the car. They were great. But it was an hour drive.
I really like this idea! Since you have an already flat and smooth work area, do you think adding castor wheels might help with the moving and arranging them? Once again, great idea 👍👍
Been to Bowling Green a couple times and did some hot laps with my ZL1 at NCM park. One of the best tracks out there. Looking forward to your video(s) on that trip.
Remember your house is not made of plastic but concrete and wood. If you think your car is heavy you should go look at the weight of your home. Wood has impressive compression strength in its weight ratio. The steel fasteners are there to handle tensile needs (highly rated storm winds). Yes your average car is about two tons. The compression strength of two 2x4s screwed together is much greater than 5000 lb/in*2 meaning it can easily hold the weight of your vehicle. Of course this takes into consideration the health of the wood. Eg it's not cracked, it's not rotten, it's not petrified, etc.
A good way to make them lighter, would be to drill some holes in them. Say something like 2" or 3" holes. If you make 2 rows of them with same 2" or 3" space between them , there should still be plenty of support. You can leave the middle solid or just drill less holes in that one, say every other hole?
When in doubt always always reinforce your build, you did an amazing great job of the build, especially with the latching of the sections so they do not move or separate from the others and as for your build strength you could park probably 3 trucks on them before any issues why because you had mega braced and did extra cross bracing, and as for the shop not doing the alignment is because YOU put the kit in and they didn't and because you did such a good job it pissed them off and refused to do it, I see it all the time lol, anyhow sir great job on build beautiful vet, and nice shop !
Some holes would make a good grab point for a lever bar, then you can slide some wheels under the big sections or do a flip wheel. Saving the back which never gets younger
You can find the compression and load span specs for timber on the interweb. However for reference to crush a 2x4 you need about 16 tonnes of direct load. No car is going to weigh 16T on one corner. That's why I built wheel cribs out of 2x4 timbers. I also made them modular height wise so I could jack the front, put on first set, then jack the back, then raise both ends upto the next height. Timber is safer than steel as steel will bend. Think about it why do you think the haulage industry uses pallets.
Aloha. I have a great suggestion. Cut out Pallet Jack Slots in those lifts and get a hand held pallet jack to move them around. Or go big and get one of the electric stand on pallet jacks. "Eddie Would Go"
Yellow pine has a compression rating of 8,470 lbs psi. You could park a fleet of semi trucks on top of that ramp. I would have gone with 2x8 sides and 2x12 tops. That would give you almost 9” of lift. Most commercial plastic/metal car ramps are 8” high. That would allow a shorter approach ramp. Since your not doing any sweeps or anything while doing the alignment, you should recheck your alignment after road test to see if it settled where you want it. Not pulling is not a sign of a correct alignment, just like a crown in the road can cause a pull in a perfectly aligned car.
What would the approximate total cost to build something similar be? I need to make something like this, but haven't bought lumber in a long time so am curious as to approximately how much I'd be looking at.
The boards are sitting on concrete and not supporting a span so they can hold a considerable amount of weight. Just be careful they don’t get wet and start rotting from the bottom and lose their structural integrity.
I think this is a really freaking cool channel. Considering that Sarge & me are about the same age, I think it would be cool to hang out with him and have an adult beverage with him while we shake our heads at you and your crazy ideas.
Go check out LMNT and get yourself a Sample Pack with any purchase at drinklmnt.com/Lonestar 🤙
WATCHING U FRM LOUISVILLE, KY...SEE U HEADED TO BG, HOME OF CORVETTE MUSUEM...ALSO CHECKOUT THE NEW BUCKEY'S GAS STATION (GET THE BRISKET SAMMIE, THANK ME NOW). GOD BLESS SAFE TRIP AND MAHALO TO U AS WELL!
Great way to do ad placement, tbh. The way you integrated the ad into what you were doing made it entertaining in a way that's the exact opposite of "let's stop everything this video is about in order to tell you about this unrelated product..." Kudos for that.
Machine
Anyone saying the wood can't hold, needs to look at load span charts for lumber.
A single 2x12 can carry 2160 lbs on a 12 foot span and still fall within code guidelines. Over 2000 lbs sitting on two small contact points.
His ramps are not spanned, are triple 2x12s, and are fully supported sitting on the ground. Meaning it only comes down to the compressive strength of the wood(which is ridiculously high at over 10,000 psi for yellow pine) and the strength of the fasteners and glue, which are also ridiculously high.
He's basically made solid logs to park vehicles on, and none of his vehicles are capable of collapsing them.
100%
I didn't see your comment before replying to one. We build houses on 2x12 beams. If they hold houses up they'll hold a car or truck
Exactly, it will hold the load. The only thing is designing it strong enough so it cannot rack itself laterally and collapse. Which looks like they have that covered.
Do not respond tonthe trolls let them just looking / be stupid
ive set the front end of a kw 900 on a block built just like his 16k steer axle and a cummins 15l didnt budge if anything it pushed the ground down lol
Can I just say that I love how much you include your kids in the video and your work?! These boys are already very familiar with the garage and the shop and obviously have a great dad.
WE NEED MORE FATHERS LIKE THESE!!!
I 100% agree with you.
Take care.
To the people commenting, How do ya figure this is unsafe?? Those are solid and just fine, y’all have houses built on less foundation than these per foot. Relax, he’s doin just fine. Love the ramps!!
thank you. I am so surprised (still) that people open their mouths to speak as fact with no knowledge. I placed 2 16" lam beams across a 19' span when making two rooms one. 12"'s would have done the job, but I went with 16"s casue they were available. Do you know what the difference is? I could park my LEXUS ES that I drove at the time in the center and not bow my ceiling. Wood is NO JOKE.
Yeah, an engineered wood structure can be unbelievably strong and flexible if needed. I don’t think they use metal I-beams in homes anymore, it’s all wood I-beams. It’s all been tested over 100s of years. Those ramps can support 3 times that weight if not more. Big trees weigh many tons and that’s all above ground, wood is inherently strong.
100% there are cribbing supports made of crappie wood than that, that hold up, to over 80K pounds, and also with loads of people flying through the air at 60mph on carnival rides.
Yep. I made a set over 15 years ago, and some people on the forums were doubting the strength. As long as you design it right, you’ll be just fine as I was. Never a doubt it my head.
Although, if I had the unlimited garage space as in the video, I would have made them wider (easier to drive on) and a platform on the front so you can stand and work under the hood if needed.
@@chupacabra3331 my only question is can the individual vertical boards supporting the load the long way pull the screws out of the short boards in between from the car being rocked side to side? I’m thinking with several construction screws and construction glue, not a problem at all
Hey brother, buy some of those retracting wheels people use to make workbenches mobile! Attach them to the large center sections, and when your done, stack the smaller pieces on top and roll them all into a corner. Beats the heck out of all the back work lugging them across the shop!
That's a fantastic idea, hopefully he sees this. 👍
I was thinking the same thing. Save your back for all the fun stuff in the car😂.
Genius
Just mount the solid kind on the side of the box..
Yes dude
I love it, throw some grip skateboard tape on the ramps. Probably need just some strips no need to cover the whole thing just something to combat slipping when the tires are wet. Also paint them so they look cool as you will I am sure have them in the shop for awhile.
This! Grip tape is cheap and will definitely help from slipping.
I built a set similar to this about 15 years ago to work on and under 1 ton diesel trucks. 2x12 down the middle and sides as well as across the top with a bump and stop for the front tire location. Gorilla glue and triple coated deck screws are your friends. 15 years later and hundreds of oil changes, suspension jobs, exhaust work, transmission services, etc.. still going strong. The removable center section is critical for making these useful. I pined them together using door hinges and large nails as the hinge pins so they remove easily.
The best ramps I've ever used are the ones I built. Your ramps will hold up a tank. The Southern Pine No. 2 - Design Compression Perpendicular to Grain is 565 pounds per square inch. Your ramp has 3 qty. 2x12s supporting half of a vehicle. :: 3 x 1.5 in. x 565 psi = 2543 pounds per inch of length ramp. The weight it can support is not the entire length of the ramp, but the length of the ramp under the contact area of the tires. You can add some additional length to the contact area length because the wood does spread out the load toi the ramp support, the garage floor.
I doubt they would hold up a tank. I had one of my workers remove tank service ramps about three feet off the ground and about a hundred feet long at a former Army base. Seven strands of 1 1/2 inch rebar buried in about a foot of concrete on each side.
As an automotive technician, alignments are always done by adjusting the camber first then caster and lastly toe. Also, you start with adjusting the rear first then go to the front.
Lol no wonder people don't trust "mechanics" nowadays. It's always caster first, then camber, assuming your car is adjustable for it.
Stand them up and a dolly would make them easy to store in a corner! I love the idea man. Definitely gives you clearance to comfortably work under it. And you could add jack stands to make it better if you wanted to! Great job! Tell the city to hurry up with your electrical plans!!!
Great build! Definitely waaaay overbuilt, but the best way for safety's sake. I would recommend putting something between both sides that links them together. I can see them possibly sliding on the concrete.
I laughed at the strength test of you jumping on top of the wood box. That's solid shadetree load testing.
yeah, those ramps are awesome, i like how the centers move away when lifted/ you knpw, the carpentry work was spot on. good building skills.
I seen you out at LSfest. My son noticed you before i did. He wanted to say hi but with all the people and everything going on he lost sight of you before we could head your way. We made the trip from south Louisiana ourselves! 11 hours in my 13, CTS V, manual transmission, sedan. Good times!
Nice job brother! I have a set of Quick Jacks and love them. Now I have a couple 4 post and a couple two post lifts in my shop, oil changes and maintenance to include cleaning is really easy now!!
Cool ramp the only thing missing on them are hand hold on the side I thing it will make them easier to move them around the shop and stack them but cool build
The most motivating video and your energy is awesome to show how to make a custom DIY ramp plus to detail what you do for a wheel alignment, awesome video bro 🤙
Great video!! Thanks.. As regards the time-out. The gauge holds the current reading until you zero it out again. No need to zero out again if it times out.
Construction looks solid but I would suggest, as added safety, to build some sort of cross connection to stabilize the two ramps from potentially sliding apart ( laterally away from each other) as you're driving the car onto them...after the car is centered and secure, can then remove the cross bracing similar to how the ramp center sections are removable
You can add gate or door hinges at the edge of each block to hold them together. Bolt the hinges onwhile the ramps are in place, then pull the hinge pin and take the ramps apart or to pull those inner blocks for access.
I don’t know why you don’t buy a portable, 4-post lift, for your shop. Wildfire lifts makes a good product that will fit in your shop, and it comes with casters so you can move it around inside, or outside your shop.
You can get a good second hand 2 post lift that can handle 4ton for about 1k euro, this amount of wood probably costs close to that, while achieving less flexibility, you can't even take the wheels off and service the brakes for example.
for example A standard SLS 4x30 (cm) cost about 40 euro for 5m, this project needs probably about 15 of them.
That will cost you 600euro, which will set you back 60% of the cost of a proper second hand 2 post lift. on top of that comes about a day of labour @ 60euro/h that would cost you about another 400 euro, this just depends on how you value your own labour.
@@PatrickHemmesKind of hard to do alignment on a 2 post lift.
@@PatrickHemmes Nah, 8 2x8s and 11 2x12s, assuming 10 foot lengths, comes in at $275 before tax at Lowes.
I only had the need and room for two ramps. I just bought one solid beam. And cut it in half then at an angle. Not the prettiest in the world but they’re way past 20 years old now. Don’t know why you couldn’t just add boards to the side to make it wider. But the weight oh lord .
I love watching videos made by folks who have too much free cash!
some of the ideas are awesome, and can be scaled down in $$ for the average back yard knuckle buster!
Keep up the GREAT work!
Before I had seen this video, I had need for my Nissan Ultima to be raised up and level. I built smaller versions of what you have with separate ramps front and back, so I can place the ramps under the car and drive up all four ramps at the same timeworked great. I really appreciate your video. Thank you.
Love your videos, cars, trucks, shop, kids, and the wife seems pretty cool too, Great job Man !!
I 100% agree with you.
This is one of my very favorite family friendly channels on RUclips. This guy is definitely a role model to be looked up to.
Take care.
Here is a little safety tip that I learned. Even though you put the block of wood at the very end so you know where to stop. sometimes that just isn't enough especially with pickup trucks and SUVs.
This is more for the person who's doing this by themselves. You can pick up these flags from Lowe's or Home Depot. These are the ones that some places require you to put on your vehicle when you're all floating or on your recumbent bike so people can see you. Once you buy two of them you can use some scrap pieces of 4 x 4 or 8 x 8 drill a hole almost to the bottom. Then whatever vehicle you're putting on the ramp take a measurement from the front of the tire to the end of your hood. Take that measurement and move your flag I would conservatively say 2 inches closer than your measurement. That way you have a little bit of room. The good thing about it is that you don't have to keep it there once the car is up. It takes a very little bit of space in your garage. I actually slide the wood under my toolbox and put the flags behind it.
I really do enjoy your videos. My all-time favorite was watching you build your dreams garage.
You need to do a burnout patch in the driveway in front of garage , put channel logo in middle and seal it in. Would be killer air shot
GREAT idea !
I hope he sees your comment.
Good job. Always entertaining. Love it.
If the ramps were $3,000 and you went to Lowe's for all this lumber you probably were better off just getting the $3,000 ramps I would imagine.
HAHAHAHA😂
Lumber prices these days are INSANE (prices for anything really)
Thanks for the fantastic video, I absolutely love your channel.
Take care, Aloha
~Jonny5🥁
Cool idea.
I made some 12” wide individual ramps for my truck but they are solid wood, no cavities, and they are half as high.
Works great and peace of mind being 100% solid wood.
Works so well a friend wanted a set too.
Just need space to store them and they are super heavy.
Always start with the rear on an Alignment if applicable, correcting toe and ultimately thrust angle will change your front toe.
I always put 1/16th of tow in since after the car is on the ground and rolling forward, pressure flays the bearings/tires out a bit.
I feel like it handles slightly better.
Just wanted to let you know I really like the way you did that sponsor part of the video, it was really nicely meshed into the video and didn't feel like an obnoxious ad read like most of them, as a result. Great stuff!
Check out homemade tilting ramps!! These are awesome if you have the room!! Pretty much big ramps, you drive up onto and then it tilts, where a arm/brace stops it, I've seen these ramps made 5 feet tall great for working underneath
Came here for the ramps, stayed for the alignment chalk presentation.
Good stuff brother!!
Following from New York!!
Awesome ramps. I thought of doing with lumber layered, but the super heavy. This way they are light !!
i would put some sort of removable bump stop like you did up front, so that in the event it accidently rolled back it wouldnt fall off. your safe and the car would be safe.
Love that little man went and got his drill. Helping Dad and Grandpa!
My parents were separated when I was 6 months old. I've never had a bond with my dad like this.
Don't take it for granted! You guys have a good thing! 🫡
Its always amazing watching you figure out problems and construct a Hawaiian product to solve your problem! Nicely done mate!
as for the level why wouldn't you put the long side flush against the vertical post then just offset the measurement by 90 degrees. that would give you the best result
I came to the comments to look for this. Seems so obvious, but I guess that's what happens during projects
Just purchase some LMNT to help me rehydrate in this South Texas heat/humidity. Love the videos, can't wait to see the shop build done 🤙🏽
💧🤙🏽🤙🏽
Those ramps are solid my brudda, god bless!
One thing that might help, it will add a little weight but get the tops sprayed with LINE-X. I will help with grip plus it will help if you get fluid on the top. To move them around just go get a couple of the furniture dollies from Harbor Freight and stack them up then you can wheel them around super easy. 4 dollies 2 stacks and you are set.
nice choice on the latches, I was going to suggest door hinges because you could pop the pins out to separate them.
For the people saying these ramps aren't safe what exactly about them makes them inferior to those $30 mold plastic injected ramps you bought at Walmart to change your oil? Also look at it like this the average 3 bedroom house roof is about 5500 lbs so if it's good enough to hold the roof of your house up then it for sure strong enough to hold a 3500 lbs vehicle a couple of feet in the air
Love it you did it
again you built something with you’re two hands amazing thank you
Really like the car ramps
I have some basic ramps I made years ago. I wish I had the space to make bigger ones like that. It’s really nice that you overbuild like that and now you can also roll a creeper under the car. Well done. I have a tool review channel. What do you think your favorite tool is for working on your cars or house?
Are you sponsored by tough built or just a fan of their products, I went and looked at your channel and it's tough built this and tough built that and tough built this... So, just curious.
Man your basketball court is coming along so nicely. Love it. Great video as always.
first time seeing your vids gotta say i love the way your vids keep me engaged definitely subbing
That's cool I did that for my c6 vett to crib it up and wrench on it i got a trail boss 24 I just started tweaking on your truck is nice
Cut some hand holds in them to make them easier to grab. You could also run a 1x2 along the outside edge to let you know if you’re getting to close to the edge.
I always enjoy your content!!
The best homemade solution I ever saw, was my grandpa using his backhoe to dig a small trench, and just drove his truck over it. Homemade mechanic's pit.
Thanks for sharing your awesome RAMPS.
I am so happy i came across this video i have those black walmart ramps and had them for YEARS. i want to have more room to work on my cars but didn't want to fork 3k for a lift and willing to have something like this! would probably do half the size but i want taller ramps than those short things are.
Cheers!
Nice ramp! seem to bo very strong! But im also like your car and alignement spec drawing on the floor! nice skill man!
This is totally safe!! These other comments are coming from people who use cinder blocks to brace up their vehicles 😂.
i made much smaller wooden ramps that are 2x10s stack on top of one another with a 45 degree cut for the tire to climb up on. The beauty with this setup is I can add more levels if I wanted too. Im satisfied with mine the way I built them. They mimic the traditional car ramps from the store and I made 4 of them. They only down side to having wooden ramps like this is weight. Even with handles I've added, they each weigh about 50 lbs. I also had a problem where the ramp would slide under load when driving off or at the top when stopping. All I did was get a padded rubber mat and screwed that to the bottom of each and that solved the problem. I think I bought 10 2x10s before covid so to make the same ones today would cost me close to double.
I've done the same. Wish I built them years ago. I also built two different heights of wood cribbing which is so much easier dropping a gas tank. (posting on fem account)
Love the Art Work !!
I’m failing to see why the shop wasn’t able to align the car when you apparently had no problem keeping all of the suspension the same… unless this was just a way to come out with a video for us on building some ramps.
Many shops won't touch any aftermarket stuff. You know liability and B.S.
@@bashamstaysbusy4193except he said “If a professional shop couldn’t get it in spec with an alignment could an overconfident DIYer do it with a tape measure”
Most likely liability. They don't want their asses sued or have to front the bill if something gets damaged or done wrong leading to property or personal damage. It's not a matter of can't its a matter of won't
@@95dodgev10 read my previous response.
That was going to be my question also .... But going through the replies on your comment, I totally understand now.
"Can't verses Won't"
Thanks for clearing this up guys 👍👍
Take care and be safe out there whenever you are.
It looks like the level has a magnet built into the bottom side, maybe you could cut a section of angle iron and slap it to the bottom and the. Have a nice flat surface to but against the vertical bar?? Just a thought.
I like the ramp/lift thingy, think I may make one thanks for the inspiration 👍🏻
Very cool idea i built a set of wood ramps for my Z4 to do oil changes the approach angle is stupid low. But when i go to do downpipes and upgrade the twin turbos i may have to build some box like this ive alwasy seen the stacked 2x4s but this seems way more stable for being under the vehicle for awhile.
I have racked my brain looking for a solution for my lowered street trucks in a very height challenged shop (i.e. no lift possible) and believe you have answered my prayers! Thank you for sharing my friend! New subscriber here and so glad I found your channel. 😎
Thanks for watching!
Good problem solving there! I'd do some upgrades to make them easier to move... Bolt some wheels on the flat bottoms so you roll em out of the way!
Awesome work.. I wish I was handy like this.
There is one thing I would do differently. When building the boxes you should keep the end pieces as one piece rather than two with the center running between them. Too weak at the screw points. Run the center long piece between the two ends.
Screws are weak, Period. Framing nails have shear strength.
Drive a framing nail and a long screw halfway into your boards and hit each one with a hammer and see what happens.
This stinks, no place to leave a comment, seen a set many years ago that a guy made coming off his 5 foot wall and we cut his grass, so he changed everything on the ramp setup. Never had issues guy was a painter of houses for a living, so between trucks and vans and his cars, not a issue, even did work on old tractor, he doubled up on 2by12 boards and ran out to 8by8's and used 4 total with them nailed together so they didn't move, boards was set into the ground with regard that he drilled holes in them and bent the rear like a staple and banged into the ground about a foot deep. Never moved and made permanently there.
I had a race car back in the day. The alignment shops all said no, except one. They used a lift then slid the rack under the car. They were great. But it was an hour drive.
Would have been nice if we had more instructions on how to build those wonderful ramps of yours😢
I would add handles to move them around with!
There are some 2 inch round vents made. You drill a 2 inch hole with a hole saw in between each rafter and pop the vents in with some liquid nails.
You are giving me ideas :D Tnx!
6:00 be sure to test it with the absolute lightest axle on the truck. 😂
Maybe some jack casters to raise and lower the ramps to move them around the shop? Luv all the content and the work with your dad.
@LonestarHawaiian you could cut some holes on the side of each ramp that would work as a handle/place to grab it and wouldn’t affect any thing.
Sweet scenes in your new garage!
Love how you used the lightest part of the truck lol should have used the front to do the drop test.
Must have a cold front come in out here in north Texas. Was only 96 at my house. Great video.
Fantastic. Love it.
Been watching you since headlight reviews in Hawaii; great job brother!
I really like this idea! Since you have an already flat and smooth work area, do you think adding castor wheels might help with the moving and arranging them? Once again, great idea 👍👍
I have Rhino Ramps and I love them. I only use them for oil changes.
Been to Bowling Green a couple times and did some hot laps with my ZL1 at NCM park.
One of the best tracks out there.
Looking forward to your video(s) on that trip.
Been watching your for a while now, and always wanted to ask, how the hell you know how to do all of this?? Amazing!! I wish you were my neighbor
Remember your house is not made of plastic but concrete and wood. If you think your car is heavy you should go look at the weight of your home. Wood has impressive compression strength in its weight ratio. The steel fasteners are there to handle tensile needs (highly rated storm winds). Yes your average car is about two tons. The compression strength of two 2x4s screwed together is much greater than 5000 lb/in*2 meaning it can easily hold the weight of your vehicle. Of course this takes into consideration the health of the wood. Eg it's not cracked, it's not rotten, it's not petrified, etc.
A good way to make them lighter, would be to drill some holes in them. Say something like 2" or 3" holes. If you make 2 rows of them with same 2" or 3" space between them , there should still be plenty of support. You can leave the middle solid or just drill less holes in that one, say every other hole?
When in doubt always always reinforce your build, you did an amazing great job of the build, especially with the latching of the sections so they do not move or separate from the others and as for your build strength you could park probably 3 trucks on them before any issues why because you had mega braced and did extra cross bracing, and as for the shop not doing the alignment is because YOU put the kit in and they didn't and because you did such a good job it pissed them off and refused to do it, I see it all the time lol, anyhow sir great job on build beautiful vet, and nice shop !
Some holes would make a good grab point for a lever bar, then you can slide some wheels under the big sections or do a flip wheel. Saving the back which never gets younger
☝🏽love this idea
You can find the compression and load span specs for timber on the interweb.
However for reference to crush a 2x4 you need about 16 tonnes of direct load.
No car is going to weigh 16T on one corner.
That's why I built wheel cribs out of 2x4 timbers.
I also made them modular height wise so I could jack the front, put on first set, then jack the back, then raise both ends upto the next height.
Timber is safer than steel as steel will bend.
Think about it why do you think the haulage industry uses pallets.
THANK YOU. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
Aloha. I have a great suggestion. Cut out Pallet Jack Slots in those lifts and get a hand held pallet jack to move them around. Or go big and get one of the electric stand on pallet jacks.
"Eddie Would Go"
Yellow pine has a compression rating of 8,470 lbs psi. You could park a fleet of semi trucks on top of that ramp. I would have gone with 2x8 sides and 2x12 tops. That would give you almost 9” of lift. Most commercial plastic/metal car ramps are 8” high. That would allow a shorter approach ramp. Since your not doing any sweeps or anything while doing the alignment, you should recheck your alignment after road test to see if it settled where you want it. Not pulling is not a sign of a correct alignment, just like a crown in the road can cause a pull in a perfectly aligned car.
What would the approximate total cost to build something similar be? I need to make something like this, but haven't bought lumber in a long time so am curious as to approximately how much I'd be looking at.
The boards are sitting on concrete and not supporting a span so they can hold a considerable amount of weight. Just be careful they don’t get wet and start rotting from the bottom and lose their structural integrity.
I think this is a really freaking cool channel.
Considering that Sarge & me are about the same age, I think it would be cool to hang out with him and have an adult beverage with him while we shake our heads at you and your crazy ideas.
Nice ramps
can you post the complete material list that you used and the cut specs, i would like to also build a set of ramps of this size.
thanks
You could add some drop down castors to make it easy to move around. 👍
Great build. Got enough weights on that tire? 1.20
Wood cribs are often used when dry docking ships....yeah, you're good! lol
I would try to incorporate some casters wheels to each section just to move around the shop instead of being carried.