Good job. There was a thread on this subject on the HAMB not long ago, and some of the cribbing that was shared in the thread looked really sketchy; some guys are obviously engineering challenged. I don't like pine boards for cribbing, but I think the 4" long blocks you inserted in 2 sides made a huge difference, in effect transferring the weight straight to the ground. As long as the weight of the vehicle doesn't exceed the crush weight of the wood, you're good to go; and with the weight of the car you're working on you're fine. But for those watching, if you're working on heavier off-road equipment, don't use soft wood like this, get some hard wood for your cribbing. Again, good job on these. Be safe!
Thanks! I hear you on soft wood; I think these would be really strong with some rough-cut hardwood 2" x 4"s - something that's a full 2" x 4" of course. Scott
@@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE WE used 2x4 rough cut oak timbers cribs like this to change the oil in 15,000# forklifts in the papermill. Also used 4x4 oak timbers for cribbing 30 ton pieces of machinery when moving or breaking it down.
@@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE think about the cribbing they use for moving houses... 4x4 6x6 oak or ash. One time my dad and I were unloading a flat bed with a 24" dia 110" wide 30,000# solid steel bed roll off a calendar stack... he had one end I had the other and we had the truck drive out from under us then we lowered it to the ground.
I’ve seen several guy/galz make these and as 32 yr carpenter (also yrs as a superintendent over commercial projects) I have had major cringe seeing ppl make these. That board has a fraction of its load/weight capacity laying flat. On edge or vertical is where it has its greatest strength. The difference I see in yours vs others is adding that center cross members. You’ve transferred the load straight through to the floor. So I’d say you’ve done much better and I myself would feel safer vs those others. But if it was me I’d use 2x12 yellow pine on edge with a 2x4 base and top. 4 12’s spaced 6” OC and 3 2x4’s laid flat equally spaced top and bottom. That’s just me. Like I said yours are the best I’ve seen so far.
@@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE don’t be an a hole when someone comments. My name is not Scott nor is Scott in my boob tube ID. This is why I absolutely h8 ppl like you. I was polite, respectful, and even spoke on what a great job you did. But you went out of your way to be an a hole. All you boob tubers do do is “please like, sub and comment” when someone comments positive towards your content and still a jerk….. go F@€K yourself.
I'd definitely agree with using some 2x10's or 2x12's on edge. It would save time and materials. But I think the 2x4's flat are probably just fine. I'd trust them over some old cheap jack stands. Jack stands have one point of failure whereas the 2x4's would have to have many points to fail before something bad happens.
This is probably the best cribbing video I've seen. The center block for load transfer is a great idea. My uncle taught me a different approach that may work when time is short and you can't build cribbing. Get the vehicle up as high as practical and safe based on the jack stands you have. Put 1/4" plywood on the ground and slide the transmission on it until it's under the trans tunnel. The plywood will protect the bottom of the trans. If you can, replace the jack plate with a square piece of 2x12 and a counter sunk bolt that keeps the wood flat against the pan. Wrestle the trans onto the 2x12 under the trans tunnel and hold down with a ratchet strap. Lift the trans up and roll it forward into place. I've done it about a dozen times that way through the years when my back was a lot younger.
Most crib building videos don't include your 4 inch blocks. As your inclusion of these blocks makes for even stronger, and hence safer, cribs for more peace of mind, we included them. You can never be too safe under a car. We glued and nailed our cribs but only needed to go eight pieces of timber high rather than your ten high. As I live in a new housing development, we were able to use discarded timber that was destined for landfill. Congratulations on your superior crib design.
My dad made some for me back in the mid ‘70’s. He used a 2x10 about 48” long ramps. Back then I had cars that sat low in the front and they were long enough to provide clearance. Lasted many years. They were heavy to move around but always felt safe. Much better than some of the cheap metal ones my friends used.
Hi Scott! I made a similar cribbing a while back and it has been a very useful tool, seems like I'm always needing something about that size to set something heavy on. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for the great video,I just went through the same thing,my neighbor loaned me the exact transmission jack you have and I pulled the trans out and even with the car as high as I could get it the trans wouldn't clear the exhaust so I thought I was going to have to remove the trans from the jack (would have been fun!) but then I realized all I had to do was tilt the front of the trans down with the jack adjustment.We always seem to overlook the obvious.
Hey, congrats on that solution! When I was a little kid I was the tool runner for my Dad and The Airforce G.I.s he invited to work in his garage. I saw them use this kind of method to clear the exhaust pipes. This was back in the 1980s.
I've made several sets of these over the years. I found that some around 7 1/2 to 9 inches really come in handy for most work. You also don't have to build them quite as wide when going shorter, which frees up space under the car (and storing them takes up less space). You can even mix them to have the front higher than the rear (or vice versa). As far as building them, I use heavy construction nails that extend slightly through 2 boards. I believe they're about 3 1/4 inch. I'll pre-drill. To safeguard against the nails backing out or loosening over time, I'll also use construction adhesive or wood glue. Franklin Titebond 2 is ok for exterior use and super strong. I've also experimented with using casters, but the good ones are just too expensive. It would take 16 high-quality casters and prices have gone crazy on them in the last few years.
Awesome idea I was thinking I have 20inch wheels on my wide body charger should I do about a 18x18 so the cribbing would be a little bit bigger to accommodate my tires instead of 16x16 you’re working with
Nice video, complete instructions. I have looked into these cribs and your video provides great tips. Also, your cribs will save me a few bucks from the ones I was going to build. Thx
Looking good Scott. Good to see you're still at it. I'm looking forward to seeing your 68 progress. My favorite year. I've owned several 68 GTO's. One a verdoro green convertible.
Hi Karl - Good to hear from you and thanks for checking in. This is the only '68 I've ever owned, but I've had several 69's, including a few RAIII Judges. Vedoro is a stunning color when it's fresh, but I hope you had black interior and not green! Thanks, Scott
Built these a while back to do a Trans swap also. I cannot believe how much easier and less sketchy it made the process. One difference, I am a belt and suspenders kind of dude so I had my jackstands at a place they would, hopefully, give me an extra second or two if there was some sort of catastrophic failure with the cribbing.
I have been looking to build a set of these, and this video came along at the right time. I wonder if you could have just grabbed the tail shaft and tipped the trans forward just enough to clear the frame rail without removing the rans from the jack.
Possibly if you lifted the tail of transmission up the bell housing may have dipped down enough to slip under. Great video , I’ll make them soon because I’m always on the sketchy side. Thanks Scott
Nice and simple - that's make it a good piece to replicate in my garage. And you are always able to use it as a support for any other thing, even as a chair.
Good video, I was thinking of using cribbing on my son's 2010 Mustang GT and swapping the tranny in my driveway, but my driveway sits with a slight incline and I don't feel safe doing that way. I pulled the C6 out of my 1988 Ford F250 7.3 diesel in the driveway, but it sits tall enough that I didn't need cribbing or jacking. I did have to drag it out from under the truck without the trans jack to clear the bottom of the truck. I laid it on a piece of scrap board and attached a rope to the board and slid it out by pulling the rope. But with his car (the Mustangs sit very low) and the incline, safety first, safety second, safety last, is the rule of thumb so he had to pay a shop to do it even though I know how to pull a transmission. The goal was to save him some money on the labor by just brining the transmission to the shop. But if it is not safe, it is better to pay.
True, but you have to be very careful if you're lifting front and rear with floor jacks at the same time because there's really nothing to keep the car from tipping over on its side. Thanks, Scott
My Dad and I have always stacked 18 inch blocks of railroad ties underneath the chassis of our project vehicles if they are too high for the jackstands. And then blocks of six by six inch beams. But my Dad remembers cribbing like yours, (but bigger), used by his Uncle Jack when moving houses in the 1950s. The whole crew was a bunch of young guys that used bottle jacks to lift up the houses, and then Uncle Jack would tell them, in his Norwegian accent: "Ho-kay, effry bodday jahk koff!!!" Which always brought gales of laughter!
And then we stack up the four by six inch blocks. And then the four by four blocks. We had to do this kind of wood stacking when my Dad's car hoist broke a cable while lifting a neighbor's plow truck. All because Dad was too proud of a mechanic to hire a hoist repairman. We even stacked spare steel truck rims underneath when we ran out of wood blocks.
Looks pretty interesting and I might need something like this for an upcoming project. I think instead of the 4" blocks, I would cut another 16" piece and have it cross the middle of the block. And I would fill in any empty space in the middle with whatever length of 2X4 is needed to fully support the center of the block where most of the stress would be from the weight of the car. Taking a longer view, If you are a serious car hobbyist, and have time to plan for the future, you should give plenty of thought to how you are going to work under a car as you age. In a nutshell, I think the majority of guys will not want to crawl under a car as they enter their 60's-70's. Get a car lift installed in your garage/shop so you can work more comfortably and not be as concerned with jackstands and the like. They are not that expensive compared to money frequently spent unnecessarily on other areas. It may mean making changes that you didn't originally plan on like getting a building with taller walls than you have. But it may make the difference between you being able to pursue your hobby and not.
I actually had a lift in my garage but it took up too much room. I may end up with another one, but I hope to still be able to crawl under a car when I'm in my 80's. Thanks
I did some similar cribbing, but not for wheels. I built mine for jack stands! I made them out of yellow pine 2x6’s, one square worth, and built them to be stackable, for different height needs. I still use them as needed today…
Great video! Love seeing videos like this, especially in a smaller garage space like mine because it tells me that many of your side projects like this are going to keep that in mind, which is great for me!
Hello Scott, great video on the wheel cribbing!!!! I did the same thing for my 69 Chevelle, and they work great, I will use them to store the car on as well in the garage for the Minnesota winters, Thanks again!!!!!!!! ~ Mike
Delivered to alot of auto and tractor trailer repair shops and dealers. Ive seen them use metal and wood extension for what your doing. Dont remember what type of wood..
Between my two sons and I, we are always having problems getting vehicles high enough to work under (and still feel safe). This looks like the ticket. Looks plenty stable and strong enough for normal cars and trucks.
Actually beneficial to construct 6 riser stands, 2 half high so the car can be brought up in progression. Treated wood and wood glue not a bad idea as well. Not to overplay the fine job you've done, but overkill is never a bad idea for longevity & personal safety. Tip the trans on the jack & slide. Use a combination wrench with bolt and nut through a bell hole to retain the converter in the pump. Trans guys been doin it that way for decades. To late now, videos 10 months old but you may do again.
The trans jack that you used has adjustments to tilt forward.thats worth 4 ".tilting the front of trans gives you enough clearance to get under the car. Once under the car put torque converter in.i did this on a 1980 trans-am with th400
Back in 2013 I built four of these to lift my Corvette to get the automatic transmission out... took some measuring to first determine the needed 'height' needed to get the trans out from under the car when it was 'on' the trans jack. End result it worked like a charm but a regular 'lift' would have been great... I'm too old to keep working under a vehicle, on my back.
I’m thinking about building some of these. Do you think it would work or be safe if I only used two in the front to remove and replace a transmission? Thanks
Interesting video. I will definately give the wooden blocks a go. Check out the Gortech multi stage heavy duty scissor jack with the extra height accessory. Its a company out of South Africa and available in the US. You can lift heavy 4x4 's and even tractors with it and much cheaper than the Daytona low profile jack too.
I've been struggling in my mind as to how I would raise my '89 Volvo 240 wagon up high enough to R&R the transmission. These cribs are the perfect solution. I built mine 16" high. And also built 3" extension plugs just in case. I also bought the same jack and the T bar attachment. Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
Why saddle extensions? I just use some wood underneath the jack behind the front rollers. Jack are designed with flat rails that allow for this. I couple 2x4 stacked gets you that extra height. I have done this countless times on all different surfaces. its best if you have hardwood underneath jack but the pine only crushes a little in all my experiences.
A friend of mine was paralyzed at age 17 when jackstands failed as he was under a car. It has always kept me away from doing any under car work. I'd probably want another fail safe but these look pretty solid.
When I chose to watch this video, I was somewhat thinking that the cribbing was adjustable. One thing I hate is having to lie under the vehicle, and have to try to maneuver whatever part around in minimal space. These look like they would at least give you more wiggle room under the vehicle, but I can imagine they take up some space to store the cribbing, and I am short on garage space as it is. Going to have to think on this cribbing idea, as it looks like something to have for the bigger jobs under the vehicles.
I could see just drilling holes at all four corners and run 1/2-13 all thread through all of the boards. One "bolt" per corner (4 total). Recess the bottom nuts so it sits flush on the floor. (wood bit). This way you dont have to worry about splitting the wood with nails or screws and much more secure. Probably much faster to build as well. If you had different lengths of all thread premade you could taylor the height at any time using the same wood. Id also look for some cheap hardwood. Doug fir 2x4's are fairly soft. Maybe use pallet material? That would lower the overall cost.
The all thread is interesting; certainly worth a try and it should speed up the process a bit, too. I'm not a fan of pallet material, but it would work if you had a bunch available. Thanks, Scott
When i changed the trans in my truck several years ago i ended up wi5h cinder blocks under the 4 jack stands to get enough hight. Used one of them red and white scissor jack to lift the trans under it. Worked much better then the one 9 on the floor jack.
I've got a small car. These will (common sense) work fine for it. I'm betting my life on that. Retired B.S.E.E. Wish me luck! lol Good job guy, and thanks for the idea. Yeah, I've got saws.
I am curious if the transmission and jack would fit under the car if you went from the front or back instead of the side. Can you measure the lowest point from the front and back to check if either way will work?
When I worked in the South African gold mines, we used cribbing like this to prevent the ceiling from coming down on us. The work area was only 3 to 4 feet high and when your nearly a mile underground, the pressures are enormous and the ceiling of the work area will sink down pretty quick. The cribbing slowed down this process allowing the crews to drill, blast and clean out. After a few months, the cribbing in the old work areas would eventually be crushed by the intense pressure. The compression strength of wood is about 5000 psi so I'm quite sure the cribs in this video would easily hold a large heavy truck, let alone a car.
@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE very claustrophobic. Nearly died once. Returned to the US and considered myself lucky. Great video by the way! I'm building your cribs today. I just don't trust the floor jacks when I'm under my Sienna.
This is how I got my car on the wood stands. I had old metal car ramps, and I put let over wood under the ramps until it was high enough and drove slowly up.
I made cribbing just like that but longer and made it individual layers and solid tops to put under my jack so I wouldn't have to put blocks on top of the jack makes it more stable and I can increase the jack height 3 inches at a time you can also make extra layers of cribbing to increase the height of the cribbing you made 👍👍
Did you consider another layer or two of cribbing? Also, did you consider mini cribbing for that long reach jack? Finally, Christmas is coming. Will there be a car lift under the tree?
I actually considered taking a layer of cribbing off; they're pretty high already. Mini cribbing would have been a good idea for the jack, but I managed. No car lift under the tree; I had one and sold it! Thanks, Scott
What's the weight limit on that cribbing solution Scott? What's the chance it will hold up my F350? Probably not I'm guessing. Any other solutions for heavier SD trucks?
Serg - I really don't have any idea on the weight limit, but you could always screw some 3/4" plywood to the outside the strengthen it even more. Thanks, Scott
It occurs to me that the stands don't have to be square. They could be 12" by 16". That would save the cost of a couple of the 2X4s, and take up a little less space when stored away.
I'm sure you solved this long ago since this video is almost a year old, but you should have been able to lift the back of the tranny to pivot the top of the bellhousing forward and down to get it under the frame rail.
I wanted to point out a possible safety issue. Make the bottom rails of the cribbing extend another 6-12" to increase shift stability. Sometimes a jack, especially on a rough surface like an older cement driveway with embedded rocks, it won't roll as easily under the vehicle as you jack it up, causing the vehicle to be pulled towards your jack. Even just as a precaution incase something else fails or goes drastically wrong, you can have more confidence in your car not tipping the cribbing over. Still a great simple build though!
It's the Harbor Freight Daytona long reach low profile 3 ton jack - www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-long-reach-low-profile-professional-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-blue-56641.html
Why not make wooden cribs another layer higher? And put the trolley jack on a piece of trusted timber,so you can jack car higher, thus you can put trans on jack and have clearence.
I either get a 2x10 and cut it into 18 inch pieces and stack them 4 high screwed together,,or a 6x6 in 2 18 inch pieces and put them side by side under my tires,,either of these can be taller or shorter according to taste or need,,,anyway I like the way it looks if the stands are solid,,,it makes me feel better,,I'm just putting another method in the mix
Cool Vid! What is brand of the Orange toolbox up front in shop? I feel very fortunate to have both 2 post and 4 post hoists to work on. The 4 post is inside the shop as I also use it for parking that extra vehicle. Still waiting on update on the little red car . . One just brought big $ on BaT
Hey Randy - The orange toolbox is a Homak RS Pro; I have three of the 72" bottom boxes. Pretty good thread on these on GJ; they're a good box for the price. Little red car is coming; I have to get the '68 Lemans convt. done and sold and then it's up next! Thanks, Scott
That's all fair and good but what if you need to take the tires off what if you doing brakes or an axle.. I use 3 ton Jack's on the axle tube itself.. and on the frame up front and they're not maxed out... The problem with those is the space they take up in the shop and the bulk around the vehicle,..I've made them out of scrap "micro-lam"off are job sites, if there is a safety issue they can go under the frame,..they work great for painting,body work...yoy don't have to get on your knees to fix a "rocker" panel.good luck and stay safe.
Jack, why didn't you put the jack back under the front cross member? Jack it up just enough for transmission to slide under the car to the trans tunnel let the car back down and then you would not have had to remove the transmission from the jack that it was on.
Next time drive the car onto four four inch blocks. Jack the car up with the jack on four inch board or a four inch block on the jack lift swivel. Kick out the boards and you can lift it in one
Would it be more structurally rigid to use full-length blocking in the center instead of just around the edges? I love the concept....Good job! No way I'm getting under 2 or 3 tons on jacks and jackstands...too old get stupider now! 😆
Sure, it would be more rigid, but you get to the point of diminishing returns and it adds weight, too. I think these are plenty sturdy for what I will use them for. Thanks, Scott
@@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE , What worries me....without a solid layer of wood from top to bottom directly under the tires, those screws around the perimeter boards will just blowout and have a collapse like on 9/11?
I just built mine....but with all 2x6" wood. 24" L x 18" W x 12" H, but made into 2 sections....a 6" H bottom and a perfectly fitting 6" section for the top. They are SOLID! I used interior grade non- predrill #10 3" long torx-head fasteners screwed in at a slight angle, from different directions per layer. I'd sleep under that car now if not for the spider larvae.....😬
Don’t need the center boards, just make a square. I use them everyday on trucks and road boats. Got a 60 cad on a set right now. That car is a pig, no centers just a box. Just pine kiln dried, no PT, just 2x4 poo poo boards from HD and local lumberyards, the ones they can’t sell because they are twisted crap, just ask they will typically have a bunch for a good discount.
I take the transmission off the jack and slide it in place and then put the jack underneath the transmission under the car because you have way more room under the car.
Good job. There was a thread on this subject on the HAMB not long ago, and some of the cribbing that was shared in the thread looked really sketchy; some guys are obviously engineering challenged. I don't like pine boards for cribbing, but I think the 4" long blocks you inserted in 2 sides made a huge difference, in effect transferring the weight straight to the ground. As long as the weight of the vehicle doesn't exceed the crush weight of the wood, you're good to go; and with the weight of the car you're working on you're fine. But for those watching, if you're working on heavier off-road equipment, don't use soft wood like this, get some hard wood for your cribbing. Again, good job on these. Be safe!
Thanks! I hear you on soft wood; I think these would be really strong with some rough-cut hardwood 2" x 4"s - something that's a full 2" x 4" of course. Scott
@@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE WE used 2x4 rough cut oak timbers cribs like this to change the oil in 15,000# forklifts in the papermill. Also used 4x4 oak timbers for cribbing 30 ton pieces of machinery when moving or breaking it down.
@@TheJagjr4450 - I have a Catepillar 977 and have some 6x6 rough cut oak for that.
@@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE think about the cribbing they use for moving houses... 4x4 6x6 oak or ash. One time my dad and I were unloading a flat bed with a 24" dia 110" wide 30,000# solid steel bed roll off a calendar stack... he had one end I had the other and we had the truck drive out from under us then we lowered it to the ground.
It's the HAMB back? I know last time I looked it was practically dead and all of posts were gone.
Always a good day seeing another video from you scott! Thanks for the great information.
Great to hear from you, Mr. Pingwuan! Thanks for the comment, Scott
I’ve seen several guy/galz make these and as 32 yr carpenter (also yrs as a superintendent over commercial projects) I have had major cringe seeing ppl make these.
That board has a fraction of its load/weight capacity laying flat. On edge or vertical is where it has its greatest strength. The difference I see in yours vs others is adding that center cross members. You’ve transferred the load straight through to the floor.
So I’d say you’ve done much better and I myself would feel safer vs those others.
But if it was me I’d use 2x12 yellow pine on edge with a 2x4 base and top. 4 12’s spaced 6” OC and 3 2x4’s laid flat equally spaced top and bottom. That’s just me. Like I said yours are the best I’ve seen so far.
Thanks for the input! Scott
@@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE don’t be an a hole when someone comments. My name is not Scott nor is Scott in my boob tube ID. This is why I absolutely h8 ppl like you. I was polite, respectful, and even spoke on what a great job you did. But you went out of your way to be an a hole.
All you boob tubers do do is “please like, sub and comment” when someone comments positive towards your content and still a jerk….. go F@€K yourself.
I'd definitely agree with using some 2x10's or 2x12's on edge. It would save time and materials. But I think the 2x4's flat are probably just fine. I'd trust them over some old cheap jack stands. Jack stands have one point of failure whereas the 2x4's would have to have many points to fail before something bad happens.
@@LutherBuilds Thanks for the input. Scott
@@LutherBuilds Takes something real heavy to smash wood. I ain't got no car like that. lol
This is probably the best cribbing video I've seen. The center block for load transfer is a great idea.
My uncle taught me a different approach that may work when time is short and you can't build cribbing. Get the vehicle up as high as practical and safe based on the jack stands you have. Put 1/4" plywood on the ground and slide the transmission on it until it's under the trans tunnel. The plywood will protect the bottom of the trans. If you can, replace the jack plate with a square piece of 2x12 and a counter sunk bolt that keeps the wood flat against the pan. Wrestle the trans onto the 2x12 under the trans tunnel and hold down with a ratchet strap. Lift the trans up and roll it forward into place. I've done it about a dozen times that way through the years when my back was a lot younger.
That sounds like a good plan, but I'd probably go to 3/8" plywood. 1/4" stuff is pretty thin. Thanks for the input! Scott
Most crib building videos don't include your 4 inch blocks. As your inclusion of these blocks makes for even stronger, and hence safer, cribs for more peace of mind, we included them. You can never be too safe under a car. We glued and nailed our cribs but only needed to go eight pieces of timber high rather than your ten high. As I live in a new housing development, we were able to use discarded timber that was destined for landfill. Congratulations on your superior crib design.
Thanks for the input, John. Glad you found the video helpful. Scott
Same here. I have been planning on building some for a while. I like the idea of putting the extra 4" block in. Thanks for the video.
My dad made some for me back in the mid ‘70’s. He used a 2x10 about 48” long ramps. Back then I had cars that sat low in the front and they were long enough to provide clearance. Lasted many years. They were heavy to move around but always felt safe. Much better than some of the cheap metal ones my friends used.
I'll bet they were quite heavy! Thanks for the input, Scott
This is a great idea. Especially for someone working on a gravel or dirt driveway. Regular jack stands are dangerous in the dirt.
Agreed. I've done some sketchy things before and jackstands in the dirt is one. Glad I didn't drop a car on me at any point. Scott
Hi Scott! I made a similar cribbing a while back and it has been a very useful tool, seems like I'm always needing something about that size to set something heavy on. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, Will! Really handy to have around, aren't they? Scott
Thank you for the great video,I just went through the same thing,my neighbor loaned me the exact transmission jack you have and I pulled the trans out and even with the car as high as I could get it the trans wouldn't clear the exhaust so I thought I was going to have to remove the trans from the jack (would have been fun!) but then I realized all I had to do was tilt the front of the trans down with the jack adjustment.We always seem to overlook the obvious.
Glad you got it figured out! Scott
Hey, congrats on that solution! When I was a little kid I was the tool runner for my Dad and The Airforce G.I.s he invited to work in his garage. I saw them use this kind of method to clear the exhaust pipes. This was back in the 1980s.
I've made several sets of these over the years. I found that some around 7 1/2 to 9 inches really come in handy for most work. You also don't have to build them quite as wide when going shorter, which frees up space under the car (and storing them takes up less space). You can even mix them to have the front higher than the rear (or vice versa). As far as building them, I use heavy construction nails that extend slightly through 2 boards. I believe they're about 3 1/4 inch. I'll pre-drill. To safeguard against the nails backing out or loosening over time, I'll also use construction adhesive or wood glue. Franklin Titebond 2 is ok for exterior use and super strong. I've also experimented with using casters, but the good ones are just too expensive. It would take 16 high-quality casters and prices have gone crazy on them in the last few years.
Thanks for the input. I need something with casters, but I'll probably just buy some vehicle skates for that. Scott
I used a pair of cribs very similar to this to pull a motor/trans out from under a ‘95 Camaro. Very handy when you don’t have a lift.
Yep. Wish I had built these years ago; I suspect I'll get a lot of use out of them. Thanks, Scott
I've been struggling on how to safely work on my 67 caddy transmission..best idea I've seen yet. thanks
Thanks for the comment and good luck with the caddy! Scott
Awesome idea I was thinking I have 20inch wheels on my wide body charger should I do about a 18x18 so the cribbing would be a little bit bigger to accommodate my tires instead of 16x16 you’re working with
Good luck with it! Scott
From my contractor- nails bend screws snap. Thank you for this!
Drywall screws, yeah, they snap. Good construction screws, like GRKs, don't break.
@@Lugnut64052is this true? I guess I’m about to find out at work tomorrow. I hope it is. I’ve asked a lot of them before.
Nails back out easier too.
“Structural screw” is what you want to see on the packaging to ensure it’s a strong screw that won’t break.
Nice video, complete instructions. I have looked into these cribs and your video provides great tips. Also, your cribs will save me a few bucks from the ones I was going to build. Thx
Happy to help, Jesse, and thanks for the feedback. Scott
Looking good Scott. Good to see you're still at it. I'm looking forward to seeing your 68 progress. My favorite year. I've owned several 68 GTO's. One a verdoro green convertible.
Hi Karl - Good to hear from you and thanks for checking in. This is the only '68 I've ever owned, but I've had several 69's, including a few RAIII Judges. Vedoro is a stunning color when it's fresh, but I hope you had black interior and not green! Thanks, Scott
Yes. Black interior, 400 4 speed.
@@karlrussell6765 - 3 pedals and black guts? Very nice.
I wanted to build a set of cribbing stands, and you have the perfect ones for me to copy.... Thanks Scott!
Glad you found the video helpful, John.
Built these a while back to do a Trans swap also. I cannot believe how much easier and less sketchy it made the process. One difference, I am a belt and suspenders kind of dude so I had my jackstands at a place they would, hopefully, give me an extra second or two if there was some sort of catastrophic failure with the cribbing.
I generally do jackstand backups if I'm using jackstands, but I did not use 'em when I had the wheel stands under the wheels. Scott
Great idea, and quite inexpensive. Costs a lot more but, would a set of Quickjacks work for what you’re trying to accomplish?
Sure, if you have a few thousand $ laying around. That or a lift. Scott
I have been looking to build a set of these, and this video came along at the right time. I wonder if you could have just grabbed the tail shaft and tipped the trans forward just enough to clear the frame rail without removing the rans from the jack.
Good question; I didn't try it, but I don't know if I would have had enough room. I'll certainly try it next time. Thanks, Scott
Possibly if you lifted the tail of transmission up the bell housing may have dipped down enough to slip under. Great video , I’ll make them soon because I’m always on the sketchy side. Thanks Scott
Not sure if that would have done it, but it's something I could have tried. Thanks for the input, Scott
Good video. I’ve got a set that I use when working under trucks. Never had a bit of problems using them.
Thanks for the input. These sure are great for those occasions where jackstands makes me nervous. Scott
Nice and simple - that's make it a good piece to replicate in my garage. And you are always able to use it as a support for any other thing, even as a chair.
Thanks for the input, Valdimir. Scott
Good video, I was thinking of using cribbing on my son's 2010 Mustang GT and swapping the tranny in my driveway, but my driveway sits with a slight incline and I don't feel safe doing that way. I pulled the C6 out of my 1988 Ford F250 7.3 diesel in the driveway, but it sits tall enough that I didn't need cribbing or jacking. I did have to drag it out from under the truck without the trans jack to clear the bottom of the truck. I laid it on a piece of scrap board and attached a rope to the board and slid it out by pulling the rope. But with his car (the Mustangs sit very low) and the incline, safety first, safety second, safety last, is the rule of thumb so he had to pay a shop to do it even though I know how to pull a transmission. The goal was to save him some money on the labor by just brining the transmission to the shop. But if it is not safe, it is better to pay.
Yep, you really need to be on level ground. 1988 F250 sounds interesting; I have a bunch of 7.3 IDI content on my channel. Thanks, Scott
You can always put lumber under the floort jack as well. And im starting to buy floor jacks in pairs makes things alot easier and safer
True, but you have to be very careful if you're lifting front and rear with floor jacks at the same time because there's really nothing to keep the car from tipping over on its side. Thanks, Scott
My Dad and I have always stacked 18 inch blocks of railroad ties underneath the chassis of our project vehicles if they are too high for the jackstands. And then blocks of six by six inch beams. But my Dad remembers cribbing like yours, (but bigger), used by his Uncle Jack when moving houses in the 1950s. The whole crew was a bunch of young guys that used bottle jacks to lift up the houses, and then Uncle Jack would tell them, in his Norwegian accent: "Ho-kay, effry bodday jahk koff!!!" Which always brought gales of laughter!
And then we stack up the four by six inch blocks. And then the four by four blocks. We had to do this kind of wood stacking when my Dad's car hoist broke a cable while lifting a neighbor's plow truck. All because Dad was too proud of a mechanic to hire a hoist repairman.
We even stacked spare steel truck rims underneath when we ran out of wood blocks.
Looks pretty interesting and I might need something like this for an upcoming project. I think instead of the 4" blocks, I would cut another 16" piece and have it cross the middle of the block. And I would fill in any empty space in the middle with whatever length of 2X4 is needed to fully support the center of the block where most of the stress would be from the weight of the car.
Taking a longer view, If you are a serious car hobbyist, and have time to plan for the future, you should give plenty of thought to how you are going to work under a car as you age. In a nutshell, I think the majority of guys will not want to crawl under a car as they enter their 60's-70's. Get a car lift installed in your garage/shop so you can work more comfortably and not be as concerned with jackstands and the like. They are not that expensive compared to money frequently spent unnecessarily on other areas. It may mean making changes that you didn't originally plan on like getting a building with taller walls than you have. But it may make the difference between you being able to pursue your hobby and not.
I actually had a lift in my garage but it took up too much room. I may end up with another one, but I hope to still be able to crawl under a car when I'm in my 80's. Thanks
Great video, very well put together and the descriptions were concise and easy to follow. Thanks for your time!
Thanks for the feedback and glad you found the video helpful! Scott
Nicely done.......I especially liked the John Deere gloves! 👍
I like 'em too! Durable and high quality. Thanks! Scott
Now I can build that . I was thinking about how to build it. Great video
Thanks, Luis. Glad you found the video helpful. Scott
I did some similar cribbing, but not for wheels. I built mine for jack stands! I made them out of yellow pine 2x6’s, one square worth, and built them to be stackable, for different height needs. I still use them as needed today…
I can see how those could be handy. Thanks for the input, Scott
Great video! Love seeing videos like this, especially in a smaller garage space like mine because it tells me that many of your side projects like this are going to keep that in mind, which is great for me!
Glad you found the video helpful and thanks for the feedback. Scott
Hello Scott, great video on the wheel cribbing!!!! I did the same thing for my 69 Chevelle, and they work great, I will use them to store the car on as well in the garage for the Minnesota winters, Thanks again!!!!!!!! ~ Mike
Hey Mike - thanks for the feedback, glad you liked the video! Scott
Delivered to alot of auto and tractor trailer repair shops and dealers. Ive seen them use metal and wood extension for what your doing. Dont remember what type of wood..
Thanks for the feedback, Scott
Between my two sons and I, we are always having problems getting vehicles high enough to work under (and still feel safe). This looks like the ticket. Looks plenty stable and strong enough for normal cars and trucks.
Yep, it's quite stable. Good luck with it. Scott
Actually beneficial to construct 6 riser stands, 2 half high so the car can be brought up in progression. Treated wood and wood glue not a bad idea as well. Not to overplay the fine job you've done, but overkill is never a bad idea for longevity & personal safety. Tip the trans on the jack & slide. Use a combination wrench with bolt and nut through a bell hole to retain the converter in the pump. Trans guys been doin it that way for decades. To late now, videos 10 months old but you may do again.
Thanks for the tip on retaining the converter. I've seen it before but forgot about that. Scott
I like the 4” blocks great job
Thanks for the input, Scott
I want to know about the come along with synthetic rope on the floor 10:18
That's a Wyeth-Scott - expensive, but I love 'em! Made in 'Murica, too - www.wyeth-scott.com/
Needs to be a way to tie all four corners together. Nice jack though. I'm going to see if they are available here.
Tying all four corners together is possible, but at the expense of added weight. The jack is good piece of gear. Thanks, Scott
The trans jack that you used has adjustments to tilt forward.thats worth 4 ".tilting the front of trans gives you enough clearance to get under the car. Once under the car put torque converter in.i did this on a 1980 trans-am with th400
Thanks for the input. Scott
Back in 2013 I built four of these to lift my Corvette to get the automatic transmission out... took some measuring to first determine the needed 'height' needed to get the trans out from under the car when it was 'on' the trans jack. End result it worked like a charm but a regular 'lift' would have been great... I'm too old to keep working under a vehicle, on my back.
Lifts are great, but they take up so much damn room! I had one in the garage but sold it a few months before I shot this video. Scott
great video, thanks for sharing! I like that you carry the load bearing all the way down.
Glad you found it helpful! Scott
I’m thinking about building some of these. Do you think it would work or be safe if I only used two in the front to remove and replace a transmission? Thanks
It should work fine.
Take the saddle from the transmission jack and put it on the low profile jack to resolve the clearance issue.
Didn't think of that. Thanks for the input, Scott
did it have to go in from the side? what about rolling in from the rear under rear axle?
Interesting video. I will definately give the wooden blocks a go. Check out the Gortech multi stage heavy duty scissor jack with the extra height accessory. Its a company out of South Africa and available in the US. You can lift heavy 4x4 's and even tractors with it and much cheaper than the Daytona low profile jack too.
I'll check it out. Thanks
I've been struggling in my mind as to how I would raise my '89 Volvo 240 wagon up high enough to R&R the transmission. These cribs are the perfect solution. I built mine 16" high. And also built 3" extension plugs just in case. I also bought the same jack and the T bar attachment. Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
Thanks for the feedback and good luck on the wagon! Scott
Use a hockey puck on the saddle for a couple of inches plus it’s no slip rubber, unless it’s on ice.
That's a good idea. Thanks for the input. Scott
That’s what I do. Work great. No mar either.
Why saddle extensions? I just use some wood underneath the jack behind the front rollers. Jack are designed with flat rails that allow for this. I couple 2x4 stacked gets you that extra height. I have done this countless times on all different surfaces. its best if you have hardwood underneath jack but the pine only crushes a little in all my experiences.
I've never tried this before. Thanks for the tip. Scott
Interesting approach when you don't have a lift.
Yep, it's like a poor man's 4 post lift.
These are a great idea thanks for sharing 👍
Glad you found it helpful! Scott
Good video...well done Scott
Thanks for the input! Scott
A friend of mine was paralyzed at age 17 when jackstands failed as he was under a car. It has always kept me away from doing any under car work. I'd probably want another fail safe but these look pretty solid.
Jackstands have always made me nervous. I usually have something backing them up in case they fail. Scott
When I chose to watch this video, I was somewhat thinking that the cribbing was adjustable. One thing I hate is having to lie under the vehicle, and have to try to maneuver whatever part around in minimal space. These look like they would at least give you more wiggle room under the vehicle, but I can imagine they take up some space to store the cribbing, and I am short on garage space as it is. Going to have to think on this cribbing idea, as it looks like something to have for the bigger jobs under the vehicles.
They to take up a bit of space, but they sit on the top shelf of my shelving unit. Scott
I could see just drilling holes at all four corners and run 1/2-13 all thread through all of the boards. One "bolt" per corner (4 total). Recess the bottom nuts so it sits flush on the floor. (wood bit).
This way you dont have to worry about splitting the wood with nails or screws and much more secure. Probably much faster to build as well.
If you had different lengths of all thread premade you could taylor the height at any time using the same wood.
Id also look for some cheap hardwood. Doug fir 2x4's are fairly soft. Maybe use pallet material? That would lower the overall cost.
The all thread is interesting; certainly worth a try and it should speed up the process a bit, too. I'm not a fan of pallet material, but it would work if you had a bunch available. Thanks, Scott
Question, will the transmission jack go high enough now?
Yes.
When i changed the trans in my truck several years ago i ended up wi5h cinder blocks under the 4 jack stands to get enough hight. Used one of them red and white scissor jack to lift the trans under it. Worked much better then the one 9 on the floor jack.
Putting jack stands on top of cinder blocks makes me real nervous! Scott
this channel is a hidden gem! i subscribed
I think so too! Thanks! Scott
#1 Knot Free 2x4x8' ?
Where in the world can they be found ?
I bought the 2x4's at Lowe's. Thanks
I've got a small car. These will (common sense) work fine for it. I'm betting my life on that. Retired B.S.E.E. Wish me luck! lol Good job guy, and thanks for the idea. Yeah, I've got saws.
Excellent, thanks for the feedback! Scott
Isn’t the timer stronger if it’s longer side is In The vertical plane? Hen used for house structure 2x4’s are laid that way…
If you flipped them and used them vertically, you'd be able to stack less of them, so I think that would weaken it. Scott
I have a lot of scrap 2x4’s and now I’m gonna make some of these haha
Good call. They're good to have around and quick to assemble. Scott
What for jack is that? I see the name but can’t make out the model. Also how high is the jack capable?
It's the Daytona long reach low profile jack from Harbor Freight. You have to get the long reach low profile model to get the extra lift height.
@@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE thx!
@@jefflebo5836 You're welcome. Scott
I am curious if the transmission and jack would fit under the car if you went from the front or back instead of the side. Can you measure the lowest point from the front and back to check if either way will work?
The car is no longer on the wheel stands, so it may be a while before I can get some measurements. Thanks, Scott
Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching! Scott
When I worked in the South African gold mines, we used cribbing like this to prevent the ceiling from coming down on us. The work area was only 3 to 4 feet high and when your nearly a mile underground, the pressures are enormous and the ceiling of the work area will sink down pretty quick. The cribbing slowed down this process allowing the crews to drill, blast and clean out. After a few months, the cribbing in the old work areas would eventually be crushed by the intense pressure. The compression strength of wood is about 5000 psi so I'm quite sure the cribs in this video would easily hold a large heavy truck, let alone a car.
Sounds like real claustrophobic and dangerous work! I hope you were paid well!!! Scott
@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE very claustrophobic. Nearly died once. Returned to the US and considered myself lucky. Great video by the way! I'm building your cribs today. I just don't trust the floor jacks when I'm under my Sienna.
@@ericberg2131 - Excellent. Floor jacks make me nervous, too. Scott
This is how I got my car on the wood stands. I had old metal car ramps, and I put let over wood under the ramps until it was high enough and drove slowly up.
I made cribbing just like that but longer and made it individual layers and solid tops to put under my jack so I wouldn't have to put blocks on top of the jack makes it more stable and I can increase the jack height 3 inches at a time you can also make extra layers of cribbing to increase the height of the cribbing you made 👍👍
Yep, putting your jack on something solid and stable is another way to get some extra height. Thanks for the input, Scott
Awesome job, Love it!
Thanks for the feedback! Scott
Great information, I subscribed
Welcome aboard! Scott
did you try ut from the rear
Did you consider another layer or two of cribbing? Also, did you consider mini cribbing for that long reach jack? Finally, Christmas is coming. Will there be a car lift under the tree?
I actually considered taking a layer of cribbing off; they're pretty high already. Mini cribbing would have been a good idea for the jack, but I managed. No car lift under the tree; I had one and sold it! Thanks, Scott
What's the weight limit on that cribbing solution Scott? What's the chance it will hold up my F350? Probably not I'm guessing. Any other solutions for heavier SD trucks?
Serg - I really don't have any idea on the weight limit, but you could always screw some 3/4" plywood to the outside the strengthen it even more. Thanks, Scott
I liked this video.
Thanks, Wiley. Scott
My late bro, lifetime w GM, later Pierce-OSHKOSH said NEVER jack with differential. A crack would be $$$$. Also, hearing and eye protection?
I've been jacking on differentials for decades. Never have seen or heard of that causing a crack. Thanks for the input, Scott
It occurs to me that the stands don't have to be square. They could be 12" by 16". That would save the cost of a couple of the 2X4s, and take up a little less space when stored away.
Correct, they do not have to be square, but I think they're more stable if they are. thanks
That's a good point. We don't want that car to fall on us!
I'm sure you solved this long ago since this video is almost a year old, but you should have been able to lift the back of the tranny to pivot the top of the bellhousing forward and down to get it under the frame rail.
Yes, I managed to get the transmission installed, but thanks for the tip. Scott
15/90x45/2.4’s in Australia would cost close to $260 in Australia.
Yikes! That's not cheap! Scott
Great idea but in Australia the timber cost would be about $150 AUD.
Yikes! That's expensive!
I built some of these years ago, they work great and are cheap.
Yep, they're a good piece of gear.
I wanted to point out a possible safety issue. Make the bottom rails of the cribbing extend another 6-12" to increase shift stability. Sometimes a jack, especially on a rough surface like an older cement driveway with embedded rocks, it won't roll as easily under the vehicle as you jack it up, causing the vehicle to be pulled towards your jack. Even just as a precaution incase something else fails or goes drastically wrong, you can have more confidence in your car not tipping the cribbing over. Still a great simple build though!
Thanks for the input! Scott
Hi. Where to buy your jack? Or at least could you leave the model name please
It's the Harbor Freight Daytona long reach low profile 3 ton jack - www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-long-reach-low-profile-professional-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-blue-56641.html
How long of screws did you use ?? Not sure if you mentioned it
Why not make wooden cribs another layer higher? And put the trolley jack on a piece of trusted timber,so you can jack car higher, thus you can put trans on jack and have clearence.
I really didn't want to make the cribs any higher, but some wood under the jack would have worked. Thanks for the input, Scott
I can't see that cribbing failing, I find a lot of people have no faith in timber, look at the old wooden roller coasters etc 👍
Gaz UK.
I can see it failing, but only if I used it to prop up my Caterpillar 977 or something stupid like that... Thanks, Scott
I either get a 2x10 and cut it into 18 inch pieces and stack them 4 high screwed together,,or a 6x6 in 2 18 inch pieces and put them side by side under my tires,,either of these can be taller or shorter according to taste or need,,,anyway I like the way it looks if the stands are solid,,,it makes me feel better,,I'm just putting another method in the mix
Thanks. I use oak 6x6's for cribbing on my heavy equipment. Scott
I made mine in two sections to make jacking it up safer. Cribs are the best.
Thanks for the tip. Scott
Cool Vid! What is brand of the Orange toolbox up front in shop? I feel very fortunate to have both 2 post and 4 post hoists to work on. The 4 post is inside the shop as I also use it for parking that extra vehicle. Still waiting on update on the little red car . . One just brought big $ on BaT
Hey Randy - The orange toolbox is a Homak RS Pro; I have three of the 72" bottom boxes. Pretty good thread on these on GJ; they're a good box for the price. Little red car is coming; I have to get the '68 Lemans convt. done and sold and then it's up next! Thanks, Scott
I also made wooden blocks after watching your video to keep my Mercedes Benz .
Excellent! Glad you found it helpful! Scott
Liked the video Scott
Thanks, William.
That's all fair and good but what if you need to take the tires off what if you doing brakes or an axle.. I use 3 ton Jack's on the axle tube itself.. and on the frame up front and they're not maxed out... The problem with those is the space they take up in the shop and the bulk around the vehicle,..I've made them out of scrap "micro-lam"off are job sites, if there is a safety issue they can go under the frame,..they work great for painting,body work...yoy don't have to get on your knees to fix a "rocker" panel.good luck and stay safe.
All good points. Thanks for the input, Scott
Good Work !!!
Thanks! Scott
Jack, why didn't you put the jack back under the front cross member? Jack it up just enough for transmission to slide under the car to the trans tunnel let the car back down and then you would not have had to remove the transmission from the jack that it was on.
Next time drive the car onto four four inch blocks. Jack the car up with the jack on four inch board or a four inch block on the jack lift swivel. Kick out the boards and you can lift it in one
Thanks for the input, Scott
I would use nails instead because they have stronger shear strength
Awesomeness
Thanks!
Would it be more structurally rigid to use full-length blocking in the center instead of just around the edges?
I love the concept....Good job!
No way I'm getting under 2 or 3 tons on jacks and jackstands...too old get stupider now! 😆
Sure, it would be more rigid, but you get to the point of diminishing returns and it adds weight, too. I think these are plenty sturdy for what I will use them for. Thanks, Scott
@@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE , What worries me....without a solid layer of wood from top to bottom directly under the tires, those screws around the perimeter boards will just blowout and have a collapse like on 9/11?
I just built mine....but with all 2x6" wood.
24" L x 18" W x 12" H, but made into 2 sections....a 6" H bottom and a perfectly fitting 6" section for the top.
They are SOLID!
I used interior grade non- predrill #10 3" long torx-head fasteners screwed in at a slight angle, from different directions per layer.
I'd sleep under that car now if not for the spider larvae.....😬
@@PTucker0864 - that sounds quite sturdy! Scott
Don’t need the center boards, just make a square. I use them everyday on trucks and road boats. Got a 60 cad on a set right now. That car is a pig, no centers just a box. Just pine kiln dried, no PT, just 2x4 poo poo boards from HD and local lumberyards, the ones they can’t sell because they are twisted crap, just ask they will typically have a bunch for a good discount.
Thanks for the input. Scott
I take the transmission off the jack and slide it in place and then put the jack underneath the transmission under the car because you have way more room under the car.
I've done it this way before, but it's just no fun to wrassle a TH400 onto a trans jack under a car. Thanks, Scott
This is some great info!!
Thanks, Olivia! I knew you'd appreciate this one!
Ahhhhh
Good deal thank you.
You're welcome. Scott