Cheap Wheel Hacks | Wheel building Tips
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- Make your pre-build wheels last longer with these simple "hacks". Basically we are just hand finishing a machine built wheel to try and get the best of both worlds, low price of prebuilt wheels and durability of handbuilt.
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Affiliate links to helpful tools for the job:
Park spoke tension meter - amzn.to/2zcm5qY
Spoke wrench - amzn.to/2AMQdta
Truing stand - amzn.to/2TtHG52
Dishing gauge - amzn.to/2WS4ZaL
Well, this great clip answered one question I had and that was do you lightly release the tension tool to get spoke tension number or do you quickly release it so it flicks the trigger because I noticed while attempting to balance wheels I bought secondhand I noticed the difference beteewn eitherway and didn't know which way is correct, BUT now I do Thankyou. Next is to try and findout how do I correctly measure rim offset on rims with 2mm offset spokes. There WE ARE ONE Strife wheels and the rear hub is 157mm superboost. I'm just not sure if the offset shoulw be even on both sides to the centre of the rim or 2mm less on the Non Drive Side because of the 2mm offset towards the Non Drive Side
Happy it was helpful! Honestly, with only a 2mm offset, I wouldn't worry about factoring it into my spoke calculation since it wont change spoke length any significant amount. For that small of an offset, I usually just take it into consideration if I need to round spoke length one direction or another to get to a useable length
@@ChrisMurrayEWC Cheers for the quick reply Chris AND ALL your great helpful videos. What I am trying to figureout is the actual correct rim offset and wondered if the spoke holes bieng 2mm offset to the Non dive disc size had any affect on the rim offset or not ? Also trying to find information on how much difference there should be between spoke tension on NDS and Cassette DS of the rear wheel. Finally after you video I just wanted you to confirm if the way you let the tension gauge snap free to get tension number is the way that I should be doing it and not slowly releasing the trigger on the tension meter like I have been. After a quick fast release test on a few spokes I noticed a 2-3 lower result shown on the gauge so that's got me wondering if all my tension numbers are right or are they actually lower than I have been setting spoke tension too using my (WRONG?) slow gauge trigger release method ?? Which would mean that my DriveSide 22 (117kgf) spoke tension settings might actually only be 19/20(85/94kfg) and my NDS 20 setting might only be 17/18(77/77kgf) ????
@@IMac8939 my pleasure, I'll do my best to answer below.
The spoke holes being offset from the centerline of the rim is the rim offset. If they are offset from the centerline of the rim but spaced evenly and straddling the rim centerline then that would not be rim offset. It still technically will change your spoke lengths but it is typically an insignificant amount.
In releasing the handle on the spoke tension gauge, I release it quickly but its not uncontrolled. I am lucky to have a spoke tension calibration tool at the shop so I can adjust things to match how I release the handle. Releasing it relatively quick seemed to be pretty close to the factory settings though.
Its worth noting, being consistent in spoke tensions will be more important to the durability of the wheel than being absolutely precise in the final spoke tension value.
Balance between drive side and non drive side spokes is basically determined by hub/rim geometry and it is nothing you can adjust for in your build in any practical sense. Its best to focus on getting the highest tension side near the rims rated max and keeping the tensions as even as possible and then just letting the lower tension side fall wherever they do to have the dish correct.
Hope this helps!
@@ChrisMurrayEWC Hey Chris, YES all spokes are 2mm offset on one side of the roms centre line and the hub is 157mm superboost Plus Hydra 32sp. I bought the wheelset secondhand and just wanted to check spoke tension and alignment but now ventured into rim offset which has become a dog chasing his tail partly fun game for me and abit confusing at times. So I am trying to learn as much info as I can while trying it for the first ever time. Just now wondering if I should redo all spoke tensions using the fast snap release than the slow gentle release I have used to get my tension numbers. AGAIN Thankyou for your quick and helpful replies Chris
@@IMac8939 Happy to help! As long as tensions are consistent, ideally no more than 10% variance between spokes per side and your absolute tensions are within 10-15% of the rims rated max you should be pretty safe. Just to clarify on the tension balance side, all DS spokes should be similar and then all the NDS spokes should also be similar but only to their respective side.
I wouldn't worry too much about slight variances in how you release the gauge as long as you are consistent. It shouldn't "snap" though when you release it, just move sorta quickly but still controlled.
I like your content, but could do with a bit lower volume on the music.
I appreciate it. This was definitely one of my earlier videos so I am working on getting better with audio levels.
Great video
Thanks Dave!
I want to build some wheels but I don't have any need right now :) I do have access to a lot of older wheels that I could breakdown and they rebuild them back up again...won't need to do any spoke calculations but will get some experience lacing and truing....what do you think?
I started to figure out wheels by just tearing stuff apart and trying to get it back together again so I fully support that if you have the time.
Chris Murray time...yep just an old retired guy :) thanks!
@@jgbarre Perfect! Enjoy!
Thanks for the tips!
I was wondering if you could go through the most (and less) common issues that can be detected when truing a wheel with a gage.
For example when a wheel is trued, tension of all of the spokes is within 5-10%, but one spoke is over tighten or too loose. How to spread the tension of one spoke keeping a wheel trued?
The other issue I encountered was when three spokes in a row were over tighten. There was no oval...
Would appreciate a lot if you could go through the common patterns you encountered in your practise.
There are a few things that cause that but I will try to go through the two most common I see.
- Rim bent, sometimes if the rim itself has a bend in it there is not much you can do to keep tensions even. This is very rare on new builds though
- Sometimes you can balance tensions by loosening the tight spoke and tightening the spoke next to it or loosening the spoke directly beside it coming from the other flange. Its pretty common to see spokes alternate between tight and loose so that trick usually works in that situation.
Thanks!
Chris Murray thank you ! With a bent rim it’s clear... but I do think that my rim is good. I placed it on a marble top and it was perfectly fine. Though I bought a used wheel from someone who couldn’t spoke it himself.. so I guess it’s a gamble.
Well in my case I found out that two spokes are 0,2 mm thinner. Now I see where the difference in tension readings is coming from.
Thanks for the tips with tensioning/loosening neighboring spokes. Are there more tips like that? How do you manage to bring the tension of all of the spokes within 5%? I followed the other video of yours and the result is good, but still not within 5%..
Off top question: a crack in a hub at the flange (from a spoke hole towards outside) . I am planning to remove the paint and TIG weld the crack ( making a groove in the crack and filling it with welding material ). Sandblast it later and paint again. Any thoughts on it?
@@user-vx7ol4zi5o It's mostly a game of slowly massaging the spokes into even tension but some rims don't let you get to 5%. Even if you are near 10% that still will make for a fantastic wheel.
As far as welding the hub, that is not ideal to have to weld it but if it is your personal parts or access to replacement parts is difficult I would say go for it. Worst case you buy yourself some time to find a replacement hub but if you do the repair well it may hold a surprisingly long time.
Good luck!
Im not familiar with screwdriver method of stress relief, can you explain it?
It basically bends the spokes so the path they naturally want to take is straight to the rim. If you look at spokes before they are tensioned, if you do not do this, they typically bow out a bit before heading back towards the rim. It minimizes fatigue as the spoke goes though natural tension/de tension cycles as the wheel rolls with load on it.
@@ChrisMurrayEWC ah, so its not technically a stress relief which you have done with squeezing the parallel spokes but bending the outside spokes (since spoke bend is only fiting for the head outside spokes) which is the step theyve skipped during building?
@@oreocarlton3343 It does relieve some stress that is otherwise stored in the spoke if they are not bent around the hub flange. Here is a great article (and website) about the topic from someone who is much smarter than myself. www.wheelfanatyk.com/blog/wheel-building-tip-no-14-set-the-spoke-path/
@@ChrisMurrayEWC thanks!
@@ChrisMurrayEWC is there a case when you have needed to overcorrect the inside (heads out) spokes?