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Looks great! Thanks for showing your PNG to engraving workflow. Was it as easy as you made it look, or did you have to do some postprocessing to get it to extrude correctly in Fusion?

can the cog be replaced without replacing the entire freehub? I want to replace it with a >13t cog.

Is the scale replaceable if it dies? Is it limited to a particular version?

In the video it says that the Onyx hubs weigh 680g. But on the Onyx website it says 418g for the Vesper and 460g for the regular hub. They can't lie by THAT much... Could they? Anyone out there that can/did weigh them? Let us know! Thanks!

Well explained. Thanks so much.

Are all the internal parts made of metal? no plastic ?

Its hard to hear the hz or tune of spoke if the other spoke is with on spoke (attached). It need to pull off before plucking it

Awesome video as always noticed your hub sound louder than some of the other videos I’ve seen could that simply be cause of the factory installing to much grease on some hubs?

What are your thoughts on the hope pro 5 and the one up rear hubs looking at building a new wheel for my enduro bike and looking to stay in the mid priced hub range as I can’t afford hydras or Chris kings

"internal routing is job security, if working on a bike was ready everyone would just work on their own bike" I started as a mechanic 20 years ago. You are flatly wrong. Internal routing is a blight on the industry, and it is not job security: how do you explain how bike shops existed prior to the influx of internal routing bikes on the market? It has never been the case that easy bike make less work. The people who with on bikes are home are simply not buying the bikes that would be impossible to work on at home and are happier for it, and still go to the shop if they have a particular task they can't do or need access to a tool they neither own nor wish to own. It has always been this way.

Thank you for sharing!

Curious what you charged for it? Have been there many times but no lathe yet.... 👍🏻

Wow mine is caked full of greese

Got a set of four different expanding shims with different wall thicknesses from eBay. Very useful. £6.99. Cost of machining lathe. A bit more. Thanks though. I like watching milling videos. Satisfying.😊

Used to watch his videos on and off. Which had big impact on my life at the time as I was going through it. Will always remember him and his videos. Amazing person.

Im going to try this. How big of a tank of helium do you need?

It's not even slightly the same

🎉👍💯

Anniversary of Iohan's death today and it's still painful to watch his amazing videos. He is greatly missed and his RUclips content must live on for others to appreciate what a great man he was.Three years and always remembered. Ride free Iohan.

Hi Chris, thanks for this great video! I'm currently bikepacking from Alaska to Argentina (in Peru at the moment) and also been learning how to build wheels by myself since it's not always easy to find the right bike shop in Latin America. I have a question when lacing a wheel with a used hub. You said you match the original lacing pattern if it's a used hub. Is there a reason why? I remember when I got a wheel laced in Canada, the bike mechanic used the same old hub with new spokes and rim but intentionally reversed the side (head-in and head-out) to not use the same grooves made on the hub flanges. He actually explained that to me but I didn't have much knowledge at the time so accepted without thinking or asking why, but now that I saw the way you lace wheels, I'm curious. What are the benefits of matching the lacing pattern for a used hub?

Hi, I'm a wheel builder, actually, I'm an inventor. I have been looking for road hubs, 130mm, which have approx. the same flange offsets (from center) as do typical Shimano Dura Ace hubs, the ones that use loose balls. However I am looking for a supply of 40 hole hubs. Yes, 40 hole. I think the drilling of holes so close together will not compromise the strength of the flange, meaning, there will likely be enough "meat" on the flange between the holes, still. For that reason I have a slight preference for hubs that have a slightly larger diameter for the hole layout. Actually I'm also looking for only rear hubs of this variety, but I will eventually want a supply of 28 hole fronts to accompany the 40 hole rear. I know this may sound very strange, but I have my reasons for seeking the 40h. It seems that these hubs have the sort of weight and performance that I'm looking for. Do you know if I could get a supply of these in 40h?

Beautiful colors.

I noticed two things, which I would try to do differently. First, the bottom brackets you're using are the sealed cartridge kind. Well it turns out, that the 9-spd Dura Ace road bottom brackets, the ones with the roller bearings inside, which can be serviced, have the exact same dimensions and interfaces as do the cartridge bb's that you're installing. I find the roller bearing bb's to be more efficient, esp. under load, e.g. the stoker bottom bracket AT LEAST could really use that particular bottom bracket. The second thing you may consider is somehow placing both chains on the same side of the bike. This may not be allowed for safety reasons on velodromes, because you have to be really careful that the chains don't touch; if they do, the results could be absolutely catastrophic, and may cause an accident esp. on a fixed gear bike. If you do that, if you place both chains on the same side of the bike (which is more efficient for transferring power from the captain's cranks), you can try to make both chain rings on the stoker's crank more or less having the same tooth count, same size that is. This way, the chains have zero chance of interfering with each other, they will never touch, so long as the lateral distance between chain rings on the stoker's crank is sufficient, with a couple of mm's to spare, for the chains to not touch.

There is one thing I have to warn you about, because I implemented a similar drive train with two chains on same side of bicycle, which is an extremely efficient way to deliver captain's power to the rear wheel, by the way. The two chains may "touch" while you're pedaling and going over bumps and if they do, bad things will happen. It will either make a loud noise or, at worst, one or two of the chains will completely get destroyed. The possibility of the two chains touching, where they overlap just in front of the stoker's bottom bracket, is dependent on two things: (1) the difference in tooth counts of chain rings on stoker's cranks and (2) the lateral spacing between chain rings on stoker's cranks. If I recall correctly I used a 42t for the connecting chain rings (on 144 B.C.D. b/c I had track crank up front), and w/ 50t drive ring I had little problem but when I upped the drive ring it to 55t, I had to put significant spacers between chain rings to increase lateral distance to prevent touching during riding. Of course you can do your best to prevent this 'malfunction' also by tightening the connecting chain adequately, and by manufacturing some sort of a "chain guide" that prevents touching. I think the best strategy, if I could do this all over again, would be to use a large connecting chain ring size, upwards of 45t. That way the tooth difference between 2 chain rings is reduced and chances of chain touch are greatly diminished, even with a 55t or so drive ring. But this sort of drive train, w/ 2 chains on same side, it makes all the difference in efficiency.

Please one of them

Who taught you how to do this ?

Hey there! I'm 13 years old now, and looking to get a job next summer when I'm fourteen at my local bike shop. Super cool older guy that runs it, and it really seems like a nice environment. I've always been interested in simple mechanics since I was little, so yes, I think this would be a great job for me. I'm not looking for money. I really want to just have something to do that I enjoy. I also have a program that I am in that requires service hours. I was thinking (thanks to this video) that maybe this winter I could volunteer there for a couple hours on a Saturday (in winter of course), that way they know me, they know my work ethic, and I think that would give me training, knowledge, and overall a better shot at getting the job summer 2025. Please let me know if there's anything I missed or anything I could do differently or better to in a sense secure the job. Thank you for the video, and please reply if you can.

Has not been stuck for long

This shop builds the best wheels!

Song name/remix name????

I wish you have included the NOVATEC PREMIUM XD602SB-B12

i see u might've been a bit nervous with the camera but great info and tour of the different set ups you do. thanks for the inspiration boss keep it up 👍😁

When the tool wears out does it under report or over report the tension?

Where's the profile hubs in this ? There's a reason people rippers are using the racing hub and even the ZCoaster

None of the cheaper options reviewed. Just all this ret. tard ed boutique stuff that costs as much as a bike

thank you master!

Can't stand noisy hubs! Onyx Vesper for the win, super quiet and will absolutely out coast everybody!

I wish..mine would come out like.that

Love this tutorial as I have not seen a lot of people use ultimaker. I thought I was the only one lol! Earned a sub!

I wish searching was possible on youtube comments because it must have been asked before. You said you are tightening the spokes for low spots and loosen them for high spots. Isn't that supposed to be the other way around?

Sad to break that beautifully crafted 300 likes number, but you deserve it, because This video is TOTALLY UNDERRATED.

Just bought the Pro 5 Trial/SS hub. I have the Pro 4 SS/T and it has been great but since I was building up a new wheel set I decided to get the Pro 5. Probably give the Pro 4 to a friend

What do you do on a carbon frame with an aluminum insert? Like for the rear brake.

Amazing video very informative but I’m having a problem. So I did everything I wanted to and went to print it and it paused fine (fyi I’m using a ender 5) and I take the filament out and a notification pops up and says out of filament so I put the new color back in and then press continue. It ask would you like to resume print and I press yes so it unpauses but the nozzle just stays ing the corner I put it and it just stays there the entire time so I just have to end it. Any suggestions?

Nothing says pro like a spoke wrench where the paint has come off.

it seem I have a squeeze in my rear hub any ideas thanks

Congratulations on producing this video, it certainly helped a lot, for many who had doubts about assembling wheels, one of the most complete videos I've ever seen, very Top.

I just made my first attempt at lacing a wheel ( don't ask lol) so I recently watched quite a few how-to videos on the subject. Wish I had found this video first! Awesome video, i gained WAY more clarity on the subject, I tip my hat to you Sir and immediately subscribe. A couple questions, I'm lacing a 20 x 4 1/4 in. rear wheel on a OCC chopper, so i don't have to alternate head and shoulder inside and next spoke outside???

How do you anodize

Hello Chris, I want to upgrade my tandem to a racer. I want to install a Shimano 105 crankset. How do I do that with the crankset? Do I use a 2x11 and add another inner chainring for the connection chain and for the front crankset only use the inner ring? Can you point me in the right direction? Cheers Daniel