Update... The clutch replacement is still working perfectly, definitely worth the effort of replacing it. Have any of you replaced your clutch lately? let us know about your experience.
Hi Gary, thanks very much… yeah, it can be a bit tedious if one doesn’t have the right tools, but overall it’s not to bad, especially if one accepts the job is going to take time to complete, so not rushing results in much less frustration. It would be nice to have a hoist through… that would make things a lot easier… maybe one day when I’m big 😂😂
Yay, a quality presentation. Very informative but also realistic but safe. (Of course it's good to disconnect the battery before playing around near the starter motor ... but maybe I missed that part) A worthwhile watch. Thank you! I have the 4x4 version Hilux so there will be an extra lever ... and the front driveshaft ... and maybe some extra wires, but otherwise similar, I imagine.
Hi Rod, I've never done it but have been told that changing the clutch on the 4x4 is a lot more work... but many of the same methods can be used. Thanks for your comment.
Wow 🤩 what a great presentation, love the step by step process, really made easy, very clear on what to do, and all the little handy tips along the way, Great Video presentation thanks mate learnt so much from this 5 ⭐️
Hi Steven, Thanks very much. I'm really happy that others are finding the video useful. If you were having to replace your clutch on a Hilux, it may also be good to check the condition of your water coolant bypass pipe... some models have a plastic bypass pipe that often cracks / breaks and I've also made a step-by-step video on replacing that. ruclips.net/video/r4IfRgUcCkM/видео.html
@@bennythegypsy3637 Good luck with the job, I'm sure it will turn out all good. Let us know once it's done. Just remember to inspect the condition of your flywheel properly. Normally the warranty on a clutch is only honoured if the flywheel was skimmed when the job was done - This is normally included in the paperwork with the clutch kit. When I replaced the clutch and pressure plate on our Toyota Tazz, I removed the flywheel and had it skimmed so the mating surface was perfectly true again. Here is the video if you also want to check that out for reference. ruclips.net/video/WeTPkD4HvSk/видео.html
@@GrantBurton thanks. I watched the video (very good) My clutch has been slipping in my hilux for some time so I imagine the flywheel may have some damage, I have a large metal lathe so skimming the flywheel should be easy...ish. But i will tell you how it goes.
@@bennythegypsy3637 Awesome, thanks. I wish I had a lathe in my shop (do have access to one though)... one day when i eventually make it on RUclips, haha.
Hi grant,good job that you do most of all ur maintenance,no problem about the talking at all for newbie,they need it,but you didn’t explain much about how you remove the pilot bearing,thx buddy
Hi Joseph, thanks... sometimes doing ones own maintenance can be frustrating, normally when battling with a job, but it is really nice to be capable of doing all this stuff. I think it's becoming increasingly difficult to work on the newer vehicles because of sophistication and special tools needed. As for removing the pilot bearing, I used 6mm bolt with T-nut on the end. I ground two sides of the T-nut flat so that it can be cocked over to the side and slipped in behind the bearing and then when the arrangement is pulled straight again, the edges of the T-nut just grab the inside of the bearing... then I just turned the nut on the bolt and the bearing came out. Apologies, it's a bit of a bum explanation... kind of difficult to explain because it was a homemade / one use puller. There are internal bearing pullers available to buy, I just don't any. I had the plan of showing and explaining the bearing puller at the end of the video but when it came to recording the end, I couldn't find where I had stored the homemade puller so just skipped over it (turns out it was in the box where the old clutch was). I suppose anything will work, as long as one is able to stick it through the internal diameter of the bearing and hook it behind the bearing and then pull. Some bearings come out easy, some are really difficult to remove.
Hi Muhammad, thanks very much… and thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. There will be another how-to video out soon about a water bypass pipe repair so keep a lookout for that.
Thanks very much. Hope you have been hitting the like button… haha. Do you have the same shape or the older box shape? We have that white 2006 and a baby blue 1999 model.
I just saw it for the second time wow perfect job congratulations I love you jack, one question the Luk kit comes with the small tool. To center the plate? Thank you for the video
Hi, thanks very much. The LUK kits i have used have come with a small plastic insert supposedly for centring the clutch plate, but its more like a plastic handle that slides into the centre hole of the plate and enables you to grab the plate and manually centre it (it doesn't hook on anything or centre itself) unless I have been using it wrong... haha. If it was longer, it could possibly be inserted into the spigot bearing, but from what I remember, it's not long enough to reach.
Hi Anne, thanks very much. I also ended up making a similar support when the clutch was replaced in a Toyota Tazz about a year ago... well worth the effort of making it if you are a single person trying to complete the job.
Thanks for the video Grant! Great work I too got someone else to do the hard work but now it seems to be shuddering when first taking off and even in reverse. Didn't fit the original clutch kit but a generic so maybe that's the problem. What actually causes the shudder? Could it be the thrust bearing? The flywheel was taken for skimming
Hi Benjamin, thanks for the comment. It could be a number of things causing the shudder. Basically it sounds like the clutch is shuddering when you are engaging it (in order to get the vehicle moving). A bad quality kit can shudder even from new? What brand of kit did you put in? I'm assuming you installed a new clutch plate, pressure plate, release bearing and spigot bearing? A clutch also has to bed in... usually it takes around 1000km or town driving... however good kits won't shudder at all, even during bedding in. Hopefully your flywheel was skimmed / machined accurately... poor machining can also be the cause shuddering. Also, when installing the flywheel back onto the crankshaft, if the flywheel did not seat 100% flat back onto the flange (because of dirt or something), it could be running out and cause shuddering, however you'll probably feel additional vibration on the engine when the clutch is disengaged. A contaminated clutch plate can also be the problem... for example if it has oil leaking on it. It's not unheard of while taking apart or even installing the gearbox, to bend the input shaft ever so slightly (this isn't normally the case though) or cause damage to the disk or spigot bearing while trying to force the gearbox back on. Misalignment of the gearbox can also be a problem. The shudder is caused by the clutch plate not engaging evenly around the friction surface or the clutch assembly not meeting concentrically as it rotates. Hope this info helps.
@@GrantBurton Thank you so much for such a detailed reply! I think I will have to take a long look through it myself and see what's causing it. With you video on how to replace the clutch kit, it should be easy😄
Very informative. thanks! My clutch is slipping on my 3.0 D4D 4x4, but I don't feel confident to change it myself at this stage. Where in SA is the best place to buy the components?
Hi Tim, thanks for the comment. First choice would be buying a genuine clutch, pressure plate and release bearing from Toyota... If thats to expensive, then all Midas, Autozones, etc. stock the LUK clutch kits... a couple of phone calls to find out who is offering it at the best price and you should be sorted. Th old genuine Toyota one I removed has both Toyota and LUK brand markings on it. Depending on how hard your vehicle works, or if you are travelling far into Africa (something along those lines), you may want to consider installing a genuine Toyota part... It's going to be super irritating and inconvenient having a clutch fail in the middle of nowhere because of an earlier cost saving. We went for the LUK kit (non OEM) because the vehicle is mostly used around town with the odd camping trip or cross country trip, so a failure wouldn't be to much of a headache. Also its not used as a work horse 24/7. Hope this helps.
@@GrantBurton Thanks Grant, I've actually been through a few clutches already on this vehicle. The current mileage is about 420 000km and I've done a fair amount off-road. I do find the clutch slips long before it actually fails and that's generally due to pushing it too hard when heavily loaded and going up hills. This just happened to my son, who's not a very experienced driver and was driving on a tar road in the Eastern Cape when he felt it slipping. I took over the driving and was a lot softer on the clutch which then got us home safely to Cape Town.
@@Jumping-Goat Glad to hear you made it safely back to Cape Town. I'm not sure if you have noticed but when the pressure plate wears, the clutch pedal gets increasingly hard to depress (or at least thats what I assume is happening). Also good to hear its still going strong at 420 000km.
Hi mate, done exactly like this, now i have a rattle who shuts of when i push the cluctch to the floor. Hilux 2014 4x4 and i replace clutch/pressureplate/bearing. Any idea ? Some say it migth me the aftermarker pressure plate.
Hi Michael, I made it form a bit of scrap metal I had lying around. Some 10x10mm solid square bar as I remember, bent it into a U shape and welded it to a piece of box section steel (was probably 40x40mm square tube). Also removed the lifting plate from the jack and bolted the gearbox holder through the hole where the lifting plate fas fastened.
Hi Gary, yeah… the kit normally comes with a clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing (throw out bearing). The 4WD clutch change is a bit more difficult than the 2WD 😊
Howzit Grant, hope you are well. Would you happen to know how to replace the cabin filter on these hiluxes? Mine is a 2006 model and doesn't seem to have the release clip like all the videos I have seen on YT. When you remove the cubby the place where it should be is completely closed off. Do I need to remove the anything else?
Hi Benjamin, well thanks. Our Hilux also has its cabin air filter slot blanked off (no cover that clips off, but I can see where it should be)... so maybe there are models that aren't fitted with a cabin air filter.
Hi Troy, it's just a standard low profile 4 ton trolley jack and I made a cradle for the gearbox out of some scrap steel lying around... and bolted it to the lifting point of the jack. You don't need a 4 ton transmission jack for this type of job... it's just a jack I had around so I used it.
Hi Binyam, it is good practice to replace both the clutch plate and pressure plate at the same time… usually these come as a kit together. It’s also a good idea to replace the release bearing / throw out bearing and possibly also the spigot bearing at the same time (while the gearbox is removed).
Hi KT, starting with a piece of 120 emery then finishing with a piece of 180 grit emery cloth on a small flat block should be good. Sanding is more to clean up the surface (scuff it up) and to reduce / remove any glazing. Using a block to sand should show if the flywheel surface is still flat... if it's not flat, it will need to be skimmed (recut the surface flat) or replaced.
HI Grant Burton, i am having issue after changing whole clutch plate and assembly. the 1st gear is a bit stuck like showed in your video, like the the clutch is still rolling after pressing. it always has difficulty on insert the 1st gear and vibration came too. i hope you can clarify my doubts. thank you very much.
Hi John, it could be a number of things causing your various issues. When you say 'vibration'... do you mean a shudder as the clutch engages? Maybe it's a defective clutch kit? The shudder / vibration could also be caused by a damaged or badly worn flywheel... most times its recommended to have the face of the flywheel recut / skimmed to ensure it is a fresh and flat surface (this depends on the vehicle though... so best to check what is recommended for your specific vehicle). Maybe by mistake, the gearbox input shaft was bent when taking it apart or installing it again if the gearbox was hanging? Or maybe the gearbox didn't seat completely flush with the back of the motor when it was bolted back together... Possibly if one of the surfaces had some dirt on it, it may have bolted up skew causing the clutch plate grab on one side first. I think your sticky 1st gear is because the clutch is not completely disengaging. Did you bleed the clutch system after installation? If this has been done, check if you are getting the correct amount of travel at the clutch slave cylinder - is the clutch slave cylinder pushing the fork and release bearing far enough for proper disengagement. (this is vehicle specific so you may have to check what yours should be). If thats all good, has the fork been installed correctly and is the throw out bearing / release bearing compatible with the replacement clutch and pressure plate assembly (it could be that the throw out bearing is slightly shorter than the old one and now you are not getting enough travel out of the slave cylinder because the clutch pedal inside the vehicle is hitting the stop?). If that is all correct, maybe the spigot bearing is worn and dragging, so even if the clutch is fully disengaging, a dragging spigot bearing could also be causing the input shaft of the gearbox to be spinning and causing the sticky first gear. Or maybe by mistake, the new pressure plate was slightly bent when it was bolted to the flywheel and now is not releasing evenly. As I said, it could be a number of things and somewhat difficult to troubleshoot without having overseen the installation or without taking some measurements. Hopefully this gives you some idea of where to start looking for the problem and hope you are able to fix it.
Do you have any idea what a standard OEM flywheel is for a hilux 2008 ggn25r 4.0l V6 by any chance? I've searched online everywhere looked ant my Haynes manual and can''t find any mention of the type or part number. I'm going to replace my clutch assembly and flywheel using your video. Thanks
Hi, any specific reason you want to change the flywheel? I don't know off hand what the flywheel part number is but I'm sure a call to the Toyota spares department would be able to give it to you over the phone.
Hi Grant. Great videos. Slowly starting to do more maintenance myself with your help. What brand electronic torque reader you using? What did youtorque your flywheel, do you know if it is the same spec for a 3.0 d4d 4x2?
Hi 550Sieve, thanks for the comment. The torque gauge I use is a ACDelco ARM602-4 (amzn.to/3pmMRng) I didn't remove the flywheel this time around... Also not sure if its the same spec for the D4D.
Hi Moltenmetal, off the top of my head, I can only think of a few things to check. - Remove the filler plug (or any other plug hole) and try inspect the gears inside. This can be kind of difficult but 'see what you can see'. Sometimes you can see the condition of the gears. If you have, use a bore scope. - Remove the drain plug and inspect the plug for metal filings, many plugs have a magnetic insert which attracts metal particles that wear. If the gears are badly worn / chipped, those filings will accumulate on the magnet. - Check the condition of the oil. Just keep in mind that fresh oil doesn't mean the transmission is in good condition. - Check for any leaks at any of the joints and the input and output shafts (also around the general area, it should be free of oily dirt). - Check for any RTV gasket maker that doesn't look original at the casing joints... If it is visible, it's likely that the transmission casing has previously been opened... and the question then is 'why?' - Rotate the input shaft in each gear and check the rotation of the output shaft... It should rotate in each gear, and its speed should vary according to the selected gear. Also remember to check reverse. All gears should work fairly smoothly. Just keep in mind that even damaged gears may rotate freely when not under load however once in a vehicle and under load, only then may damaged gears reveal themselves. - Grab hold of the input shaft and rock it from side to side and up and down, there shouldn't be any movement or free play (there may be slight movement / play but this shouldn't be excessive).
@@GrantBurton it's an 85 g54 for my hilux. Mine is missing first gear and I replace the shift seal and boot already and it keeps popping out of 1st. Thanks for your informative tips 👍
I’m not to familiar with that model gearbox but from what I have read after a bit of searching online, it could be a number of things. Sometimes a broken gearbox / engine mount can cause a slight misalignment and the gearstick catching and not allowing full engagement of the gear (likely not the problem). There can also be a broken spring as part of the 1st/2nd gear selector rod assembly which causes the ball not to remain engaged in the detent and the gear jumps out (not sure if it applies to your gearbox). What is most likely the case and a good starting point is the small plastic bush that goes over the bottom of the ball at the bottom of the gear lever. I know these wear and when this happens, sometimes the gear lever doesn’t push the selector far enough to properly engage. I’ve already replaced this small plastic bush at the bottom of our gearstick. To replace this, you need to remove the top of the gear selector housing on the gearbox and then the entire gearstick will come out and the bush can be accessed. It’s also a cheap part to get from the Service centre. Hope this helps.
Are all the other gears easy to select? If it's easy to select 3rd gear when the motor is off but difficult to select when the motor is running, it could be that the 3rd gear synchro is worn?
Hi Grunty, After a quick Google search, I believe that asbestos is not used in vehicle clutches anymore... it hasn't been for many years, but 'who knows' exactly what is and isn't going into that clutch material.
Hi, the total cost of the parts was around $210.00 USD (R3170.00). LUK clutch kit which included a clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing was $206 USD (R3100) and the spigot bearing was $4 USD (R70). Labour didn't cost anything as I did the job myself... not sure how much an auto workshop would charge to do the work as I normally do all of my own repairs and maintenance. If i remember correctly, an original OEM replacement clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing from Toyota was just under $466 USD (R7000).
Nice video. I paid someone for this job. I have a 3.4L Tacoma, the Hilux cousin and according to the Toyota Service manual it calls for the clutch disc to be oriented with the spring side towards the engine instead of towards the transmission. This is very unusual as most of the time the clutch is oriented with the springs oriented towards the transmission. I wonder what would happen if if was installed incorrectly. It appears to run and shift fine with at least 1000 miles on it so far.
Hi Larry, thanks for the comment. I've heard those V6's are very strong engines. I've still got that old original clutch lying around somewhere (was going to do a separate video comparing that to a LUK brand clutch), so will have a look at the spring orientation and reply again. I think Ive got an answer to your question but I want to visually check something on the plate before I get it wrong. Good to hear your replacement is still working well. Ours is also still working well after 8000km (about 5000 miles).
@@GrantBurton I replaced the flywheel with a LUK one. I believe Toyota used LUK for some of their OEM parts. I bought an Aisin clutch but noticed (from memory) the springs stuck out quite a bit more on the original clutch.
@@Neishy4AGTE Hi Dale, it had the flat side orientated towards the flywheel and the side where the springs stick out towards the gearbox. The flat side has the words 'flywheel side' stamped into it. The original clutch that I removed is also made by LUK but has 31250-OK120-B TOYOTA 5F 11A 10:57 markings on the flywheel side.
Hi Larry, I just checked the old clutch I removed... It's the original clutch from when the vehicle was new. It had the flat side orientated towards the flywheel and the side where the springs stick out towards the gearbox / transmission. The flat side has the words 'flywheel side' stamped into it. The original clutch that I removed is also made by LUK but has 31250-OK120-B TOYOTA 5F 11A 10:57 markings on the flywheel side. Having a brief look at the plate and spring arrangement on the old clutch plate, I don't see any problem with the central hub interacting with the outer plate and pads of the clutch. The interface between the splined centre hub and the pads are through the springs, where it looks like the springs are there to take up shock load as the clutch is engaged and also looks like they will absorb load in either direction or rotation... even though the engine only rotates in one direction. At least on this version of the clutch plate it looks like that... Not sure about other aftermarket replacements. HOWEVER, if the side where the springs sticking out were installed towards the flywheel, i think the springs and central hub would interfere with the bolts on the flywheel and the clutch pads probably wouldn't even touch the flywheel.
Definitely a good idea but its always a toss-up between replacing it while it's easily accessible vs 'don't fix what aint broken' or leaving good and well alone... haha.
Recommending your victims to slowly turn the gearbox output so that the clutch plate and gearbox output shaft splines align while reinserting the gearbox may save some poor bugger some frustration. Unless they deserve it... in which case, say fokkol.
![KSI - Dirty [Official Visualiser]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoDh1h1dPUE/mqdefault.jpg)
Update... The clutch replacement is still working perfectly, definitely worth the effort of replacing it.
Have any of you replaced your clutch lately? let us know about your experience.
Can you let me know the measurements and dimensions please, and what year hilux?
I'm replacing my clutch and pressure plate at the moment.
@@feboblack6489 Good luck with the job, let us know how it turns out.
Sorry a bit late to the video haha just one question how long did this take you
Excellent instructional video. love your sense of humour.
Thanks very much.
great presentation - congratulations from French Guiana
Hi Michel, thanks very much.
Great video, thanks for not treating us like children, and covering every single incidental nut bolt and washer!
Hi CP, its a pleasure... hope you found the video useful.
ive done a few clutches many years ago. its a prick of a job . you made it look easy . you done a great job thanks for shareing
Hi Gary, thanks very much… yeah, it can be a bit tedious if one doesn’t have the right tools, but overall it’s not to bad, especially if one accepts the job is going to take time to complete, so not rushing results in much less frustration.
It would be nice to have a hoist through… that would make things a lot easier… maybe one day when I’m big 😂😂
Yay, a quality presentation. Very informative but also realistic but safe. (Of course it's good to disconnect the battery before playing around near the starter motor ... but maybe I missed that part) A worthwhile watch. Thank you! I have the 4x4 version Hilux so there will be an extra lever ... and the front driveshaft ... and maybe some extra wires, but otherwise similar, I imagine.
Hi Rod, I've never done it but have been told that changing the clutch on the 4x4 is a lot more work... but many of the same methods can be used. Thanks for your comment.
Wow 🤩 what a great presentation, love the step by step process, really made easy, very clear on what to do, and all the little handy tips along the way, Great Video presentation thanks mate learnt so much from this 5 ⭐️
Hi Steven, Thanks very much. I'm really happy that others are finding the video useful. If you were having to replace your clutch on a Hilux, it may also be good to check the condition of your water coolant bypass pipe... some models have a plastic bypass pipe that often cracks / breaks and I've also made a step-by-step video on replacing that. ruclips.net/video/r4IfRgUcCkM/видео.html
Thanks for this video. It is the most informative version I have seen on this subject.
Hi Owen, thank you very much. Did you also have a clutch replacement you had to do?
@@GrantBurton not yet. Parts should be here in a couple of days. I'm just making sure I know what I'm in for.
@@bennythegypsy3637 Good luck with the job, I'm sure it will turn out all good. Let us know once it's done. Just remember to inspect the condition of your flywheel properly. Normally the warranty on a clutch is only honoured if the flywheel was skimmed when the job was done - This is normally included in the paperwork with the clutch kit. When I replaced the clutch and pressure plate on our Toyota Tazz, I removed the flywheel and had it skimmed so the mating surface was perfectly true again. Here is the video if you also want to check that out for reference. ruclips.net/video/WeTPkD4HvSk/видео.html
@@GrantBurton thanks. I watched the video (very good) My clutch has been slipping in my hilux for some time so I imagine the flywheel may have some damage, I have a large metal lathe so skimming the flywheel should be easy...ish. But i will tell you how it goes.
@@bennythegypsy3637 Awesome, thanks. I wish I had a lathe in my shop (do have access to one though)... one day when i eventually make it on RUclips, haha.
Excellent thank you, need to do this on my petrol 2007..thank you!
It's a pleasure, good luck with the repair. Keep in mind the clutch kit is only warrantied if the flywheel is skimmed.
Hi grant,good job that you do most of all ur maintenance,no problem about the talking at all for newbie,they need it,but you didn’t explain much about how you remove the pilot bearing,thx buddy
Hi Joseph, thanks... sometimes doing ones own maintenance can be frustrating, normally when battling with a job, but it is really nice to be capable of doing all this stuff. I think it's becoming increasingly difficult to work on the newer vehicles because of sophistication and special tools needed.
As for removing the pilot bearing, I used 6mm bolt with T-nut on the end. I ground two sides of the T-nut flat so that it can be cocked over to the side and slipped in behind the bearing and then when the arrangement is pulled straight again, the edges of the T-nut just grab the inside of the bearing... then I just turned the nut on the bolt and the bearing came out. Apologies, it's a bit of a bum explanation... kind of difficult to explain because it was a homemade / one use puller. There are internal bearing pullers available to buy, I just don't any.
I had the plan of showing and explaining the bearing puller at the end of the video but when it came to recording the end, I couldn't find where I had stored the homemade puller so just skipped over it (turns out it was in the box where the old clutch was).
I suppose anything will work, as long as one is able to stick it through the internal diameter of the bearing and hook it behind the bearing and then pull. Some bearings come out easy, some are really difficult to remove.
Burton this is an amazing help
Hi Alton, thanks very much.
I am from Pakistan I love your video thanks for making nice videos 💓💓
Hi Muhammad, thanks very much… and thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. There will be another how-to video out soon about a water bypass pipe repair so keep a lookout for that.
All the way out of NZ with 2002 hilux. Bloody awesome videos man. Thanks again Grant
Thanks very much. Hope you have been hitting the like button… haha. Do you have the same shape or the older box shape? We have that white 2006 and a baby blue 1999 model.
I just saw it for the second time wow perfect job congratulations I love you jack, one question the Luk kit comes with the small tool. To center the plate?
Thank you for the video
Hi, thanks very much. The LUK kits i have used have come with a small plastic insert supposedly for centring the clutch plate, but its more like a plastic handle that slides into the centre hole of the plate and enables you to grab the plate and manually centre it (it doesn't hook on anything or centre itself) unless I have been using it wrong... haha. If it was longer, it could possibly be inserted into the spigot bearing, but from what I remember, it's not long enough to reach.
🇬🇧 👍🏽 December 2024
Awesome walk-through sir.
Very nice video, i really like the support for the gearbox on the jack
Hi Anne, thanks very much. I also ended up making a similar support when the clutch was replaced in a Toyota Tazz about a year ago... well worth the effort of making it if you are a single person trying to complete the job.
Thank you for the video
You’re welcome 👍
well done
Thank you.
Very good video thanks a lot🤗
Hi Anthony, thanks very much for the comment, glad you found it useful.
Awesome 👌 video mate
Hi Rocky, thanks very much. It seems that as time goes by, more and more people are finding it useful and that makes me really happy.
couldnt help but notice you didnt take the speedo cable off in the video? how and where did you disconnect this from the gearbox?
Gracias por el vídeo justo lo que buscaba
It's a pleasure and thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the video Grant! Great work
I too got someone else to do the hard work but now it seems to be shuddering when first taking off and even in reverse. Didn't fit the original clutch kit but a generic so maybe that's the problem. What actually causes the shudder? Could it be the thrust bearing? The flywheel was taken for skimming
Hi Benjamin, thanks for the comment. It could be a number of things causing the shudder.
Basically it sounds like the clutch is shuddering when you are engaging it (in order to get the vehicle moving). A bad quality kit can shudder even from new? What brand of kit did you put in? I'm assuming you installed a new clutch plate, pressure plate, release bearing and spigot bearing?
A clutch also has to bed in... usually it takes around 1000km or town driving... however good kits won't shudder at all, even during bedding in.
Hopefully your flywheel was skimmed / machined accurately... poor machining can also be the cause shuddering. Also, when installing the flywheel back onto the crankshaft, if the flywheel did not seat 100% flat back onto the flange (because of dirt or something), it could be running out and cause shuddering, however you'll probably feel additional vibration on the engine when the clutch is disengaged.
A contaminated clutch plate can also be the problem... for example if it has oil leaking on it.
It's not unheard of while taking apart or even installing the gearbox, to bend the input shaft ever so slightly (this isn't normally the case though) or cause damage to the disk or spigot bearing while trying to force the gearbox back on.
Misalignment of the gearbox can also be a problem.
The shudder is caused by the clutch plate not engaging evenly around the friction surface or the clutch assembly not meeting concentrically as it rotates.
Hope this info helps.
@@GrantBurton Thank you so much for such a detailed reply! I think I will have to take a long look through it myself and see what's causing it. With you video on how to replace the clutch kit, it should be easy😄
@@benjaminfalconer8725 Let us know what you find 👍
Very informative. thanks! My clutch is slipping on my 3.0 D4D 4x4, but I don't feel confident to change it myself at this stage. Where in SA is the best place to buy the components?
Hi Tim, thanks for the comment. First choice would be buying a genuine clutch, pressure plate and release bearing from Toyota... If thats to expensive, then all Midas, Autozones, etc. stock the LUK clutch kits... a couple of phone calls to find out who is offering it at the best price and you should be sorted. Th old genuine Toyota one I removed has both Toyota and LUK brand markings on it.
Depending on how hard your vehicle works, or if you are travelling far into Africa (something along those lines), you may want to consider installing a genuine Toyota part... It's going to be super irritating and inconvenient having a clutch fail in the middle of nowhere because of an earlier cost saving.
We went for the LUK kit (non OEM) because the vehicle is mostly used around town with the odd camping trip or cross country trip, so a failure wouldn't be to much of a headache. Also its not used as a work horse 24/7.
Hope this helps.
@@GrantBurton Thanks Grant, I've actually been through a few clutches already on this vehicle. The current mileage is about 420 000km and I've done a fair amount off-road. I do find the clutch slips long before it actually fails and that's generally due to pushing it too hard when heavily loaded and going up hills. This just happened to my son, who's not a very experienced driver and was driving on a tar road in the Eastern Cape when he felt it slipping. I took over the driving and was a lot softer on the clutch which then got us home safely to Cape Town.
@@Jumping-Goat Glad to hear you made it safely back to Cape Town. I'm not sure if you have noticed but when the pressure plate wears, the clutch pedal gets increasingly hard to depress (or at least thats what I assume is happening). Also good to hear its still going strong at 420 000km.
Hi mate, done exactly like this, now i have a rattle who shuts of when i push the cluctch to the floor. Hilux 2014 4x4 and i replace clutch/pressureplate/bearing. Any idea ? Some say it migth me the aftermarker pressure plate.
Best Channel
How did you make the trolley jack gearbox holder ?
Hi Michael, I made it form a bit of scrap metal I had lying around. Some 10x10mm solid square bar as I remember, bent it into a U shape and welded it to a piece of box section steel (was probably 40x40mm square tube). Also removed the lifting plate from the jack and bolted the gearbox holder through the hole where the lifting plate fas fastened.
hey man i have a 2014 hilux 4wd preasure plates are thrown away now. it all comes in the clutch kit
Hi Gary, yeah… the kit normally comes with a clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing (throw out bearing).
The 4WD clutch change is a bit more difficult than the 2WD 😊
Howzit Grant, hope you are well.
Would you happen to know how to replace the cabin filter on these hiluxes? Mine is a 2006 model and doesn't seem to have the release clip like all the videos I have seen on YT. When you remove the cubby the place where it should be is completely closed off. Do I need to remove the anything else?
Hi Benjamin, well thanks. Our Hilux also has its cabin air filter slot blanked off (no cover that clips off, but I can see where it should be)... so maybe there are models that aren't fitted with a cabin air filter.
Any specs on your transmission Jack want to build my own
Hi Troy, it's just a standard low profile 4 ton trolley jack and I made a cradle for the gearbox out of some scrap steel lying around... and bolted it to the lifting point of the jack. You don't need a 4 ton transmission jack for this type of job... it's just a jack I had around so I used it.
Did the pressure plate must changed when u change z clutch????
Hi Binyam, it is good practice to replace both the clutch plate and pressure plate at the same time… usually these come as a kit together. It’s also a good idea to replace the release bearing / throw out bearing and possibly also the spigot bearing at the same time (while the gearbox is removed).
That opening line was golden 🤣
Haha... 😂 I’m sure we have all experienced that many times 😂
awesome video I'm a subscribers👌👌
Hi Khomotso, thanks very much 😁
Thanks boss
Welcome
What grit sandpaper you do use for sanding the flywheel?
Hi KT, starting with a piece of 120 emery then finishing with a piece of 180 grit emery cloth on a small flat block should be good. Sanding is more to clean up the surface (scuff it up) and to reduce / remove any glazing. Using a block to sand should show if the flywheel surface is still flat... if it's not flat, it will need to be skimmed (recut the surface flat) or replaced.
@@GrantBurton thank you very much, that's crystal clear 👍🏾
Appreciate it
HI Grant Burton, i am having issue after changing whole clutch plate and assembly. the 1st gear is a bit stuck like showed in your video, like the the clutch is still rolling after pressing. it always has difficulty on insert the 1st gear and vibration came too. i hope you can clarify my doubts. thank you very much.
Hi John, it could be a number of things causing your various issues. When you say 'vibration'... do you mean a shudder as the clutch engages? Maybe it's a defective clutch kit? The shudder / vibration could also be caused by a damaged or badly worn flywheel... most times its recommended to have the face of the flywheel recut / skimmed to ensure it is a fresh and flat surface (this depends on the vehicle though... so best to check what is recommended for your specific vehicle). Maybe by mistake, the gearbox input shaft was bent when taking it apart or installing it again if the gearbox was hanging? Or maybe the gearbox didn't seat completely flush with the back of the motor when it was bolted back together... Possibly if one of the surfaces had some dirt on it, it may have bolted up skew causing the clutch plate grab on one side first.
I think your sticky 1st gear is because the clutch is not completely disengaging. Did you bleed the clutch system after installation? If this has been done, check if you are getting the correct amount of travel at the clutch slave cylinder - is the clutch slave cylinder pushing the fork and release bearing far enough for proper disengagement. (this is vehicle specific so you may have to check what yours should be). If thats all good, has the fork been installed correctly and is the throw out bearing / release bearing compatible with the replacement clutch and pressure plate assembly (it could be that the throw out bearing is slightly shorter than the old one and now you are not getting enough travel out of the slave cylinder because the clutch pedal inside the vehicle is hitting the stop?). If that is all correct, maybe the spigot bearing is worn and dragging, so even if the clutch is fully disengaging, a dragging spigot bearing could also be causing the input shaft of the gearbox to be spinning and causing the sticky first gear. Or maybe by mistake, the new pressure plate was slightly bent when it was bolted to the flywheel and now is not releasing evenly.
As I said, it could be a number of things and somewhat difficult to troubleshoot without having overseen the installation or without taking some measurements.
Hopefully this gives you some idea of where to start looking for the problem and hope you are able to fix it.
Do you have any idea what a standard OEM flywheel is for a hilux 2008 ggn25r 4.0l V6 by any chance? I've searched online everywhere looked ant my Haynes manual and can''t find any mention of the type or part number. I'm going to replace my clutch assembly and flywheel using your video. Thanks
Hi, any specific reason you want to change the flywheel? I don't know off hand what the flywheel part number is but I'm sure a call to the Toyota spares department would be able to give it to you over the phone.
How did you get the top bolt
Hi D Lee, which top bolt are you referring to?
Hi Grant. Great videos. Slowly starting to do more maintenance myself with your help. What brand electronic torque reader you using? What did youtorque your flywheel, do you know if it is the same spec for a 3.0 d4d 4x2?
Hi 550Sieve, thanks for the comment. The torque gauge I use is a ACDelco ARM602-4 (amzn.to/3pmMRng) I didn't remove the flywheel this time around... Also not sure if its the same spec for the D4D.
Thanks bro
It’s a pleasure.
Hi, what did you use for lift and fail safe lift? Was it just 4 axle stands?
Hi, I used a 4 ton trolley jack to jack up the vehicle and then set the vehicle on 4 axle stands rated at 6 tonnes each.
When buying a used transmission is there anything to do to make sure it works properly off the vehicle?
Hi Moltenmetal, off the top of my head, I can only think of a few things to check.
- Remove the filler plug (or any other plug hole) and try inspect the gears inside. This can be kind of difficult but 'see what you can see'. Sometimes you can see the condition of the gears. If you have, use a bore scope.
- Remove the drain plug and inspect the plug for metal filings, many plugs have a magnetic insert which attracts metal particles that wear. If the gears are badly worn / chipped, those filings will accumulate on the magnet.
- Check the condition of the oil. Just keep in mind that fresh oil doesn't mean the transmission is in good condition.
- Check for any leaks at any of the joints and the input and output shafts (also around the general area, it should be free of oily dirt).
- Check for any RTV gasket maker that doesn't look original at the casing joints... If it is visible, it's likely that the transmission casing has previously been opened... and the question then is 'why?'
- Rotate the input shaft in each gear and check the rotation of the output shaft... It should rotate in each gear, and its speed should vary according to the selected gear. Also remember to check reverse. All gears should work fairly smoothly. Just keep in mind that even damaged gears may rotate freely when not under load however once in a vehicle and under load, only then may damaged gears reveal themselves.
- Grab hold of the input shaft and rock it from side to side and up and down, there shouldn't be any movement or free play (there may be slight movement / play but this shouldn't be excessive).
@@GrantBurton it's an 85 g54 for my hilux. Mine is missing first gear and I replace the shift seal and boot already and it keeps popping out of 1st. Thanks for your informative tips 👍
I’m not to familiar with that model gearbox but from what I have read after a bit of searching online, it could be a number of things.
Sometimes a broken gearbox / engine mount can cause a slight misalignment and the gearstick catching and not allowing full engagement of the gear (likely not the problem).
There can also be a broken spring as part of the 1st/2nd gear selector rod assembly which causes the ball not to remain engaged in the detent and the gear jumps out (not sure if it applies to your gearbox).
What is most likely the case and a good starting point is the small plastic bush that goes over the bottom of the ball at the bottom of the gear lever. I know these wear and when this happens, sometimes the gear lever doesn’t push the selector far enough to properly engage. I’ve already replaced this small plastic bush at the bottom of our gearstick. To replace this, you need to remove the top of the gear selector housing on the gearbox and then the entire gearstick will come out and the bush can be accessed. It’s also a cheap part to get from the Service centre.
Hope this helps.
Mine gear 3 is abit hard to get into.....like it feels there is a thing stuck in front of the gear
Are all the other gears easy to select? If it's easy to select 3rd gear when the motor is off but difficult to select when the motor is running, it could be that the 3rd gear synchro is worn?
Do clutches on Toyota hilux contain asbestos ?
Hi Grunty, After a quick Google search, I believe that asbestos is not used in vehicle clutches anymore... it hasn't been for many years, but 'who knows' exactly what is and isn't going into that clutch material.
What is the approximate cost for a clutch replacement including parts
Hi, the total cost of the parts was around $210.00 USD (R3170.00).
LUK clutch kit which included a clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing was $206 USD (R3100) and the spigot bearing was $4 USD (R70).
Labour didn't cost anything as I did the job myself... not sure how much an auto workshop would charge to do the work as I normally do all of my own repairs and maintenance.
If i remember correctly, an original OEM replacement clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing from Toyota was just under $466 USD (R7000).
How much time did the clutch job cost?
Hi Febo, I guess it takes around 4 hours to complete. (it took me a bit longer but that included taking all the video, etc.)
What size was your clutch?
Hi Sean, not sure what size you want? The clutch plate has a diameter of 250mm.
Nice video. I paid someone for this job. I have a 3.4L Tacoma, the Hilux cousin and according to the Toyota Service manual it calls for the clutch disc to be oriented with the spring side towards the engine instead of towards the transmission. This is very unusual as most of the time the clutch is oriented with the springs oriented towards the transmission. I wonder what would happen if if was installed incorrectly. It appears to run and shift fine with at least 1000 miles on it so far.
Hi Larry, thanks for the comment. I've heard those V6's are very strong engines. I've still got that old original clutch lying around somewhere (was going to do a separate video comparing that to a LUK brand clutch), so will have a look at the spring orientation and reply again. I think Ive got an answer to your question but I want to visually check something on the plate before I get it wrong.
Good to hear your replacement is still working well. Ours is also still working well after 8000km (about 5000 miles).
@@GrantBurton I replaced the flywheel with a LUK one. I believe Toyota used LUK for some of their OEM parts. I bought an Aisin clutch but noticed (from memory) the springs stuck out quite a bit more on the original clutch.
how was the clutch you took off oriented?
@@Neishy4AGTE Hi Dale, it had the flat side orientated towards the flywheel and the side where the springs stick out towards the gearbox. The flat side has the words 'flywheel side' stamped into it. The original clutch that I removed is also made by LUK but has 31250-OK120-B TOYOTA 5F 11A 10:57 markings on the flywheel side.
Hi Larry, I just checked the old clutch I removed... It's the original clutch from when the vehicle was new. It had the flat side orientated towards the flywheel and the side where the springs stick out towards the gearbox / transmission. The flat side has the words 'flywheel side' stamped into it. The original clutch that I removed is also made by LUK but has 31250-OK120-B TOYOTA 5F 11A 10:57 markings on the flywheel side.
Having a brief look at the plate and spring arrangement on the old clutch plate, I don't see any problem with the central hub interacting with the outer plate and pads of the clutch. The interface between the splined centre hub and the pads are through the springs, where it looks like the springs are there to take up shock load as the clutch is engaged and also looks like they will absorb load in either direction or rotation... even though the engine only rotates in one direction. At least on this version of the clutch plate it looks like that... Not sure about other aftermarket replacements. HOWEVER, if the side where the springs sticking out were installed towards the flywheel, i think the springs and central hub would interfere with the bolts on the flywheel and the clutch pads probably wouldn't even touch the flywheel.
for the price of a rear main seal , doesn't hurt to replace it while you have the gearbox removed
Definitely a good idea but its always a toss-up between replacing it while it's easily accessible vs 'don't fix what aint broken' or leaving good and well alone... haha.
Recommending your victims to slowly turn the gearbox output so that the clutch plate and gearbox output shaft splines align while reinserting the gearbox may save some poor bugger some frustration. Unless they deserve it... in which case, say fokkol.
As long as they put the gearbox in gear 😂😂😂 It's a good tip though. Thanks for the comment Sean.
Good except talk too much 😝
Haha 😂 well… you could always turn off the sound 😂😂 thanks for the comment.
@@GrantBurton but I can tell you are a good man 👍👍
@@honvun8002 Thanks 😊