To HumbleMechanic: I've watched almost every video of yours, since I have an MK3 Golf Variant with an AEX engine with 020 transmission, and I'm a mechanic too, with a small shop in a village in Hungary. Your vids are great, and I think you deserve your name. Volkswagen is a german car brand, however the supply of parts are not that good here in Europe. I saw there are many places in the US where you can order or buy every single part for a VW, it doesn't really matter which type or year the car is. For example: it's obvious that there are many bolts in the car that must be replaced every time you take the engine or the transmission apart, because these bolts yield if you do your job as it needs to be done. The issue is there are some types of bolts that are very hard (sometimes impossible) to obtain, like the bolts that hold the crankshaft and the clutch pressure plate together, or the ones that hold the clutch pressure plate and the flywheel together (it's a reverse clutch). These bolts are not ordinary ones, you can't just buy them in a hardware store. The M7x50mm bolts are like white ravens, and if you order a clutch set that should contain these bolts in the package, you have to deal with the annoying fact: you won't get these bolts, it doesn't matter which brand your ordered clutch set is, the package won't have these included. It's very annoying and sometimes it makes the work even harder, because you need to talk with a machinist who can make the bolts, and you can forget the specifications the factory ordered, if the threads wore out on the originals, or the bolts are yielded already. Plus it costs more than it should. I saw many websites in the US that can sell such parts, but here we can't order from there, the soup could cost more than the meat in it. The worst thing of it is I could order some parts of a german car from the US, but not from a local supplier. The shipping could cost more than the parts themselves.
Probably goes without saying but ALWAYS replace the pilot bearing when replacing a clutch, and its never a bad idea to replace the rear main seal since you are in that far.
I gotta replace the flywheel, clutch kit, concentric slave cylinder and the rear main seal on a PD160 Cupra Ibiza.... this is now the 6th time on the same car, car keeps CHEWING them due to it having so much torque for the clutch, lol
@@FSXflyermaster tried, found out car was pissing oil from the crankshaft oil seal, which got replaced, then ended up the crank was wrecked so clutch was just getting wrecked, I ain't changing the crank so going in for replacement crank tomorrow so....
With over50 years experience in the motor trade i never once changed a clutch without replacing the pilot bearing, its just false economy to ignore this. Well pointed out Isometric. *****
Don't forget the paint marker... I always mark the bolts/nuts with a paint marker (different colors) as I go through the tightening stage (green), then onto the torque stage (yellow). Just my personal preference and makes it easy to remember visually which ones were tightened and torqued.
In stages. Snug, almost full torque, full torque. I do the cross pattern, then go all around the circumference to double check. At each torque stage. Takes an extra minute or two. Peaceful sleep.
I would like to say what if my club is still good. Still powered, but the only problem is breathing. It's shooting truth into the chance not to the clock
Do the rear main seal, look for any unusual play in the gearbox shaft, look for any leakage from the gearbox, when disassembling the clutch check the flywheel for any uneven surfaces to see if it needs to be resurfaced or even swapped with a new one.
Is good idea to do rear main seal, mine was in a Frame that had 2 bolts holes on bottom for oil pan that were stripped. So I got New Housing too. Also did crank (gear) seal/ housing, crank gear, which was bad, all the seals on transmission, fuel injector o- rings, new oil pan gasket/baffle, water oulet housing, new CV joints, rebuilt front and back brake calipers and updated All shift rod bushings. 97 Jetta 2.0. Took 3 weekends, but car is running great now.
@@ripcurlB88 why not replace main seal with the clutch if u replace it u know 100% it going to last in till the time the clutch is replaced or what if u replace clutch then it starts leaking u have to pull it all back out do it all a again
@@ethanstewart3386 it all depends really. I can haul out a transmission in 2 hours on my back in my garage. So if it starts leaking, then its still a task even for me, but nothing a Saturday cannot crush. But there are more things that can go wrong with attempting to install a rear main seal, not to mention the added time. Most people dont know the difference between teflon seals and spring seals and how to install either. they slam them on, they leak, and complain. As long as your PCV system is working and not blowing out seals, it'll most likely be good for the duration that you own the car for.
I feel like a little extra tip should be to grease the pivot on the clutch fork. Many times have I seen/ heard a squeaky clutch simply due to the fact that there is no lube where the pivot is.
It's a good idea to think about replacing rear oil seal to your engine while your in there it's behind flywheel, you would hate to have an oil leak and have to pull it back out. Changing pilot bearing should be done as well.if your vehicle has a internal clutch cylinder it should be changed as well. One last thing when using a clutch alignment tool make sure tool is all the way in and that the weight of the clutch disc does not bind the alignment tool as you tighten the pressure plate. When pressure plate is properly tightened and clutch disc is properly aligned with tool the alignment tool should pull out easily. Which will help in the reinstallation of the transmission. Hope this helps Good luck
Great tips thanks. I have changed the clutch on my Golf TDI AHF and my Leon TDI ASZ and although I followed similar practices, advice like this could save someone from having to redo their hard work prematurely.
Awesome video, I learned a lotta tips! I’m ordering parts for a 2000 Ford ranger with 197,000 miles. What besides the clutch kit should I be ordering? Kit includes the throw out bearing, alignment tool, pressure plate
Thank you for making this video. The transmission came apart in my 95 GMC Sierra mainly because the last person to install the clutch did not use an alignment tool. Seems like a no-brainer. Right? It caused a cascade failure starting with the first bearing, second bearing, then on to the vibrating input shaft.
This is one of the best videos I have ever seen for clutch replacement/installation. Very detailed and concise. Thanks for the tips Charles. Keep up the great awesome work!
Ahh its great watching this video AFTER doing my clutch and seeing everything i did wrong. Reused the flywheel bolts, rattlegunned the flywheel bolts, didnt replace throwout bearing, didnt break in the clutch... Lol
Gday, awesome video, but one thing, is there a cheat way to align the clutch disk without buying the tool? because it's very hard to find the right one for my car where i live.
Do you recommend grease, only a tiny amount on the face of the throw out bearing where it meets the pressure plate fingers? I have seen this 50/50. I have a Hilux making noise at the moment and my gearbox mechanic says it’s noisy due to this area being dry. I thought grease here would fly off quickly
Have never seen that advice in any manual. VW, Cummins, Mack, International, Satoh. T.O. Bearing should do its design job when it hits the fingers. No need for slippage there. Any lube other than the sliding splines on the tranny input shaft or the clutch fork pivot is suspect.
OK so I got a question. Just did a 2015 scion tc 6 speed clutch replacement. Car started the first time. Shut it down, went to restart and sounded like the starter was binding up or not lining up with the flywheel. Removed and redid the process for the installation along with a New starter. Same result. This has me stumped
Because I was short on time I paid a local mobile mechanic to do my clutch. I now find it tricky finding the bite without getting a judder in 1st and reverse. Could this be the clutch alignment being out? I've driven it about 200 miles like this thinking it needed bedding in. What do you reckon? I'm going to fix it myself as I'm done with trusting anyone else.
even though I am a civil engineer but really I enjoyed your demonstration about the clutch because I have Nissan patrol 83 models running well. how about 4 wheel gearbox and its connection to the clutch? Thanks. Greetings from Riyadh.
The last time I replaced the clutch in my '87 Mustang GT, I saved a few bucks by having the flywheel resurfaced instead of using a new part. There's a reason the clutch warranty requires that BOTH the pressure plate AND flywheel are new. I believe that hard spots from localized heating remained in the flywheel, causing significant clutch chatter that I live with every day. What a hassle...
I bought all new bolts and redid the seals on the ,020 trans, new self adjust clutch cable and release bearing. Royal Purple trans fluid. Didn't expect clutch and flywheel not to mate, as are new!
He isn't messing around when he says torque those bolts! Did a clutch replacement on a 01 Mustang GT and only didn't torque the pressure plate bolts (every other bolt was torqued). So as it was on the ground, clutch wouldn't engage and the thing could only roll. Went back and torqued it and bam! She grabbed gears like new. Please torque your bolts.
Wonderful tips, I can’t do it myself but I was finding ways how it works and watching this video it is really cool if you want to do it. Right now I am working with manyautosltd.com they can help with all kind of new clutch, clutch diagnostic, clutch repair reading, clutch replacement, clutch pedal, clutch master cylinder Etc.
just ordered a SMF and 6 puck sprung clutch for my mk4. excited to get going on the job this weekend. going to rnr the rear main seal and replace the gear oil in the trans while im at it. cant wait to feel a more aggressive engagement
@@HumbleMechanic just an update, got it finished up without any hang ups. there is that chattering noise at idle but I expected it tbh with the smf. thank you for the tips.
While I have the back of the engine exposed, if there are any water jacket plugs that are steel I will replace them with brass. I almost always replace the pilot bearing. You mentioned lube on the clutch splines, I also add a little dab to the release fork pivot, and make sure the pilot bearing has adequate but not excessive lube. And I always check the input shaft seal as well as the rear main seal. If they have a lot of miles on them I'll just replace them.
So, I will need: the clutch pack, a pack of swisher sweets, water bottles, torque wrench, transmission jack, a 40 pack of dr pepper, gloves, possibly a 3m mask for particulates just in case, and the car has to be up on all four in order to drop the transmission safely correct?
I am really interested in how much clamping force is being applied when installing the flywheel, 10 bolts at ? ft lbs = 20 billion lbs of clamping force. is it over kill?
@@juice323blue4 $200 a day? I'd charge that per hour they use it, just because if they wreck clutch, that's new kit, then labour on that, then the hastle of having to change it and the time the car is down and loss of earnings not having it on road. Simple.
Hi ! We changed the clutch assembly and put the old push-in bearing back because it was still good (we have the wrong type of new, TypeA, Type b possible.)Toyota Yaris 2008 year 1.3 vvti, 30.000 miles. It was a problem of heavy gearing in the 1st and 2nd gear. After changing the clutch set, the problem remained the same. What could be wrong ?Toyota is like a new one and was more in the garage than on the road.
3 Questions: 1- How can I spot a refurbished clutch which sold as new by a dishonest part seller? 2- Should I necessarily replace the flywheel (LUK part nr: 415034310 ) together with the clutch kit (LUK part nr: 623360500 ) on my 2010 Audi A5 with 63000 miles? 3- Mechanic just sat inside the car and checked the pedal and told me that I do not need to buy the flywheel. Can he be right? Or do you need to remove the flywheel to inspect? I need answers asap, Many thanks in advance.
Thanks for your videos Charles which are well done and very helpful! I have an Mk5 Golf GTI with 195'000 miles. The clutch was replaced at around 160k. Now the clutch pedal is sticking to the floor sometimes, engagement point is varying. According to the previous owner, this began just after the clutch replacement, he got the clutch bleed 3x with no luck. I replaced the master cylinder and gaskets and bleed around 10x, after a bleed the clutch works well but for the first miles but then tends to act as if air was present in the system (no air is seen when pressure bleeding, also it does not seem to degrade further with time). I am beginning to think that the slave cylinder, they put in when replacing the clutch, was defective from the factory and maybe not sealing well. I wonder if you had a similar case? I saw on the video that you had a leaking slave in the gearbox. What were the symptoms? Thanks a lot if you find the time to answer me :)
@@richardrichard5409 thanks, the cause was unrelated to the hydraulics but was due to lateral play in the input shaft of the gearbox. Adding an additional washer solved the problem.
Don't forget the crankshaft pilot bearing/bushing. We usually recommend replacing the pilot bearing/bushing. If it is a bronze or sintered metal bushing we soak in high quality engine oil for about an hour before installing or follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
Five. HUNDRED. Agonizing. Miles. None of which would matter in the least if you were rockin' your Hyundai Cilantro or Dodge Stratosphere. Great video, thanks man. Is the LSD install vid next.. ; ] ?
Maybe if the monkeys did break out the torque wrench for the airbox cover screws they wouldn't strip the shit out of the plastic base so you have replace the whole thing. Ask me how I know.
First of all, thank you for sharing. I want to ask, what is the problem when the engine is running and the gear cannot be put in. when the engine is turned off, go into gear and then start the engine while pressing the clutch will the car jump (keep moving)? how to overcome?
Intrestrestingly there seems to be some confusion. The bell housing has a hydraulic Concentric Slave Cylinder/ Release Bearing (O2M) Transmission but the new Release Bearing featured, relies on a lever. I used this video to identify the correct Friction Plate for O2M (Boss on Gearbox side) rather than the Double Boss Friction Plate. Egg on face if wrong.
Another great video my friend, I needed this so thank you! Still got the W8, but uncle have my son a 2002 Passat 1.8t in manual. The family tradition with Volkswagens continues.
I found out the hard way, the clutch alignment tool isn’t perfect. Sometimes it has a little too much wiggle room, so make sure you hold it in the center by finding the center point with your fingers as you tighten the pressure plate bolts. Otherwise you’ll be trying to wiggle the transmission in forever like I did
Sir, I have a question here, recently my Mechanic replaced the clutch plate,cover and the bearing.After , the job was done, when I drive the car there's a metal grinding sound when the engine is running at 3000rpm. It's a Perodua Viva (Kei car). What could be the cause of this problem Sir... Pragasam, Melaka, Malaysia.
Great video, thanks. What would be the significance to the word Valeo stamped on the clutch disc be ? I'm replacing the clutch set-up on my stock '69 Camaro 396 and I've been told stock set-ups are OK as long as they are stamped Valeo... Thanks, Paul
ohio houston like hell its not. It's a seal with a limited life span. With the clutch out, it's just 5 more minutes of your time. An RMS leak will ruin a new clutch. Get it done in tandem.
Good morning mr now that you talking about the clutch replacement I have a Volkswagen Jetta 1998 I replace the clutch about two years when I rebuilt the trans but months later I have problems whit the motor but now I take off both to rebuild the motor I got it back may question is if can I reassemble the old clutch or not , what is the different between clutches , the stage 2, 3 are for racing only or can be use for everyday driving I’m in California i appreciate your time to read it.Thank you.
You can reuse the clutch assuming it’s not contaminated. Odds are you’ll need new hardware. If the car is stock, go with a stock clutch. The higher “stage” has more calming force
Hi great tips here. I've replaced my mk5 clutch and dmf with the bearing this weekend. Came all assembled, so bolted on the whole thing. It is Sachs kit. Cleaned everything, took my time to make sure its all torqued and done properly. The problem i have is when i select first gear and slowly bringing the clutch pedal up to bitting point without applying gas, the whole car vibrates, but no vibration in the pedal. So its only on pull away. All other gears are smooth and clutch its not slipping. Is this the case of clutch breaking in, and will go away after few hundred miles? Thank you
@@HumbleMechanic thank you for the reply. Both engine and gearbox mounts are few months old. The big round subframr bush has some movement. Would it affect the clutch?
@@Wiliuz I had a shop install a new clutch/flywheel on my '93 BMW 325i (e36). Few thousand miles later, I had such a shudder when launching from 1st gear.! I initially thought it was a oil contaminated clutch. I had the shop replace the RMS (rear main seal). The oil plan (w/gasket) is right below it, I suppose that's a potential source of oil I replaced the engine mounts, no dice. Turns out they impromperly installed the guibo (rubber flex joint, between gearbox & drive-shaft) -- it was *disintegrating*. That caused the shudder..the whole car SHOOK! Mysteriously it went away for several thousand miles. Then, I began to get GRINDING in 3rd gear. I went underneath to see the tattered remains of the guibo joint -- the bolt heads were damaged (grinding against flange of drive-shaft). I ordered a new guibo, & installed it myself ..CORRECTLY!
my 95 civic has 209K miles, should I replace the flywheel or resurface it? I don't know how many times the clutch has been replaced by the original owner.
Hello, nice video. I have a question, maybe you can help. On my Ford Focus 2 I replaced all the parts regarding the clutch except for the pressure plate bearing inside the gearbox. My mechanic said it is ok to keep the old one which he cleaned it and greased it well. Although I knew this isn`t a good thing to do, in order to save some money I agreed and didn`t replace it. I mention that the bearing isn`t noisy but now I am afraid I ll have some problems later and it should have been better to replace it alltoghether with the other parts. The car has 160.000 Km. What do you think? Should I replace it now or wait, and how could I prevent any further problems? Thanks in advance for you answer.
I got to do the clutch on my audi TT quattro. All stage 3 stuff from ECS. I'm pretty nervous about doing it myself. I've heard its the better part of valor to assemble your clutch and flywheel and take it to a machine shop to get spin balanced as a unit directly from Fidanza
Awesome! I value your input. I'm speculating the Reason why Fidanza said that is because they can't be responsible for what you bolt onto the Fidanza flywheel so if the whole thing is spun balance there is probably less chances of issues. Pretty much 100% of the clutches i've seen done at home came right out of the box and into service.
For a clutch align tool I wrap electrical tape around a bar to get the exact dia. Also I have never used any lube on the splines. I think the plate just stays against the flywheel and gently rubs and don't slide along the splines anyway. Also I have just made a new extra simple type gearbox lifter that don't need a jack. 1 for front wheel drive and 1 for rear wheel drive. I just put them on youtube if you are interested.
The best tip I can give when replacing a clutch is buy an oe clutch, most of the replacement clutches out there are just cheap junk they feel wrong and don't last more than a year if your lucky
One of the very weakest points of the Golf R is the oem clutch...is one of the most important things if you want to enjoy the real power of them, i had my tune did with low torque app.... And is really anoying get that low torque to ride....
Hey Charles help! I have questions about the lube and grease used in a clutch job! I know that usually in the clutch kit there is a small pack of “spline grease” but I was told that you want to put some anti seize on the shaft where the release bearing rest on, and other metal to metal contact points such as on clutch fork and pushrod, others suggest moly grease or lithium grease in instead of anti seize. However I wonder if you can just lube all of these parts with spline grease or you don’t have to grease any components at all except spline?
I had a mechanical system with the clutch adjustment screw too tight, I was also missing a spring (clutch fork return spring), oops. This caused my thrust bearing to get eaten and I got copper in the engine oil. I got lucky that it didn't eat the crankshaft, I caught it early. I just had to replace the main bearings. It was a fresh rebuild, when I wiped it too :( If your slave cylinder is not adjusted right the same thing can happen. The full proof way to look is to remove the inspection cover, and check to see if the throw out bearing is resting an 1/8th of an inch off of the pressure plate fingers. You can even push the clutch in and release it to make sure the throwout bearing returns to the proper place. Riding the clutch can also cause thrust bearing failure. Hope this helps, and saves a headache.
What exactly does that sound like? I just did a RA4 conversion kit and 11lb flywheel on my 04 a4 1.8t. it kinda sound like a diesel at idle in neutral clutch out. Rattles on the down revs too. Some says it's normal... Everything was torqued to spec though...
Rattling from a lightened flywheel IS in fact "normal". That's the trade-off of ditching your DMFW, as a dual mass does the job of a harmonic balancer in absorbing the vibrations from engine pulses. Having a steel lightened flywheel (as opposed to aluminum), one of minimum weight (12lbs and up), and a harmonic/fluid damper will help minimize the vibration/rattling, but you will still have some at idle.
Humble, bought a clutch and flywheel from A Zone. Thte Clutch plate won't go into flywheel , and seat on second level, down. Hitting on sides. Old clutch plate goes down to bottom of new flywheel. Took back to AZ and none of their new clutch plates would fit either. Told me to grind down edges on clutch plate to fit. Is for 97jetta, 2.0. what you think? Thanks!
I bought New Flywheel and Clutch. Old clutch plate Fits New Flywheel. After slightly grinding, new clutch plate Fits, tight like old flywheel. I will put back this weekend, and I'll let you know, Mr. Humble if all is OK. Thank You.
Hello, thanks for the video. I have Fiat Bravo 2 1.6 multijet 105hp. From 1-2 weeks I have an issue with the clutch - when I am going on first and reverse gear the car is vibrating and annoying rasping sound is heard on the front of the car. Sometimes I am not even able to shift the gears and when I turn off the car and pump the clutch and then the car start shifting and driving off without vibrations. Could it be a problem with the clutch release bearing? Or because of old brake fluid and air in the system? Thanks in advance!
This is without doubt my favourite job, love doing clutches its a fine art to get new clutch in and running smoothly no juddering, breaking it in etc and then seeing how many miles you can get of it, I've just replaced the one in my diesel van, dual mass flywheel had the van from new and got just over 230.000 miles out of it before ot started making a noise and slipping, not bad for a delivery van.
I hope i dont have to change my anytime soon. My truck is at 184K miles and going but i just got done putting ti back together because it wasnt always mine, heck before i started working on it i didnt know the previous owner. STILL DONT. but none the less i have it on the road and legal now but im having to learn how to drive it. Its a 1994 Ford Ranger inline 4 5 speed. I'm pretty good at shifting even without a tach but the whole stop and go motion is tricky to me. And a buddy of mine thinks it's misfiring and boy i cnat tell and i cant read the engine light flashes correctly. I looked up the firing order, even though i thought i had it right, changed the order, and im pretty certain there was no change. UUUUUGH. I hope i dont tear this little truck up, so far i love it and i wanna keep loving it lol.
Most clutches will be stamped "gearbox side" on one side. It should also be very obvious that the clutch only fits one way vs the other. I always try the other way, and its like fitting a dowel into a hole vs a dowel onto a dowel kind of thing.
Mine just says Forward side, now is that forward into the transmission, or forward into the engine, i may be nuking this but don’t want to install improperly, I’ve heard, flat twards flywheel but at this point i don’t know what to believe
Lol I did that, slapped it together, couldn't get in with it on, tried adjusting the pedal and had to do it over again. Live and learn I guess, and upon inspection it did say flywheel and transmission side... hindsight 20/20
HumbleMechanic what downsides should I be concerned about using a smfw and the negative effects on the transmission. I just installed an Mfactory steel single mass and spec stage 2+ and now I’m worried that I’m going to prematurely wear out my transmission. It’s a 2011 335xi, should I be worried?
Hmm, RUclips decided to remind me of this video exactly 10 days after i replaced my clutch and now it feels like despite my best effort i somehow fucked up most of those...
My F250 Ford Doesn't seem to slip until I shift into 3rd gear. This sounds like it needs a new clutch to me. The hydraulic phelper wouldn't show any effect , correct? My requests all come back showing either a f150 or some foreign car. Thanks for your help.
This is a good explanation in detail I’m doing the clutch on one of my trucks for the first time I had a mobile mechanic install it a 4 or 5 months ago and my girlfriend burned it out already I think he put a cheap one that totally shredded out I hate when they get no Orem parts that’s what happens when using cheap parts thanks
Dont worry, its 99% of local mechanics almost everywhere...At least at a few countries a know in Europe. Impact wrench are their best friend, torque wrench is alien stuff.
Hey Charles. I got a 2020 GTI manual that always had clunky shifting, specially 2nd gear - I bought it CPO from a dealership. It’s very clunky on a cold start, but it gets okay, not great, after the engine gets HOT. Already changed oil and aligned the shifter. Is this a common GTI issue? I got a suspicion the synchro is busted. Would it be worth taking it to have the gearbox open and rebuilt?
you ALWAYS factor in DOING the throwout bearing........save up the extra money, get the whole kit, so worth your time its like not replacing the rear main seal on a small block chevy when you have the ability..... seriously.....when ya think ya can get away with not replacing it.....its when it shits the bed
jordan gatt they were only replaced by equally harmful materials which are ok for now, until the epa sides with a new producer of replacement materials, and deems the current materials harmful and dangerous to your health so as to phase in new materials and profit.
When rebuilding old vehicles, they have old clutches in them. Old clutches have asbestos. That's why I'm here -rebuilding two old Toyota FJ40s. This was critical info for me to know.
I have been dynamically balancing flywheel assemblies . Flywheel 1st single plane .then add the P plate . It is always out in 2 planes after put together . 14 grams of unbalance at 7000 rpm equates to hundreds of lb,s of force every revolution.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
To HumbleMechanic: I've watched almost every video of yours, since I have an MK3 Golf Variant with an AEX engine with 020 transmission, and I'm a mechanic too, with a small shop in a village in Hungary. Your vids are great, and I think you deserve your name.
Volkswagen is a german car brand, however the supply of parts are not that good here in Europe. I saw there are many places in the US where you can order or buy every single part for a VW, it doesn't really matter which type or year the car is. For example: it's obvious that there are many bolts in the car that must be replaced every time you take the engine or the transmission apart, because these bolts yield if you do your job as it needs to be done. The issue is there are some types of bolts that are very hard (sometimes impossible) to obtain, like the bolts that hold the crankshaft and the clutch pressure plate together, or the ones that hold the clutch pressure plate and the flywheel together (it's a reverse clutch). These bolts are not ordinary ones, you can't just buy them in a hardware store. The M7x50mm bolts are like white ravens, and if you order a clutch set that should contain these bolts in the package, you have to deal with the annoying fact: you won't get these bolts, it doesn't matter which brand your ordered clutch set is, the package won't have these included. It's very annoying and sometimes it makes the work even harder, because you need to talk with a machinist who can make the bolts, and you can forget the specifications the factory ordered, if the threads wore out on the originals, or the bolts are yielded already. Plus it costs more than it should.
I saw many websites in the US that can sell such parts, but here we can't order from there, the soup could cost more than the meat in it. The worst thing of it is I could order some parts of a german car from the US, but not from a local supplier. The shipping could cost more than the parts themselves.
Good video. Straightforward, to the point, no unnecessary chatter about the wife, kids, dog, or anything else. Good job. Ty
It's a tough decision.
Im so glad we have your approval!
Oh Chosen One!
Probably goes without saying but ALWAYS replace the pilot bearing when replacing a clutch, and its never a bad idea to replace the rear main seal since you are in that far.
I gotta replace the flywheel, clutch kit, concentric slave cylinder and the rear main seal on a PD160 Cupra Ibiza.... this is now the 6th time on the same car, car keeps CHEWING them due to it having so much torque for the clutch, lol
@@jayharris5460 stage1 clutch and flywheel???
Jay Harris just buy a stronger clutch??
@@FSXflyermaster tried, found out car was pissing oil from the crankshaft oil seal, which got replaced, then ended up the crank was wrecked so clutch was just getting wrecked, I ain't changing the crank so going in for replacement crank tomorrow so....
With over50 years experience in the motor trade i never once changed a clutch without replacing the pilot bearing, its just false economy to ignore this. Well pointed out Isometric. *****
Don't forget the paint marker... I always mark the bolts/nuts with a paint marker (different colors) as I go through the tightening stage (green), then onto the torque stage (yellow). Just my personal preference and makes it easy to remember visually which ones were tightened and torqued.
In stages. Snug, almost full torque, full torque. I do the cross pattern, then go all around the circumference to double check. At each torque stage.
Takes an extra minute or two. Peaceful sleep.
I would like to say what if my club is still good. Still powered, but the only problem is breathing. It's shooting truth into the chance not to the clock
Do the rear main seal, look for any unusual play in the gearbox shaft, look for any leakage from the gearbox, when disassembling the clutch check the flywheel for any uneven surfaces to see if it needs to be resurfaced or even swapped with a new one.
Is good idea to do rear main seal, mine was in a Frame that had 2 bolts holes on bottom for oil pan that were stripped. So I got New Housing too. Also did crank (gear) seal/ housing, crank gear, which was bad, all the seals on transmission, fuel injector o- rings, new oil pan gasket/baffle, water oulet housing, new CV joints, rebuilt front and back brake calipers and updated All shift rod bushings. 97 Jetta 2.0. Took 3 weekends, but car is running great now.
Do the rear main seal while you're in there
Rear main seal and pilot bearing, probably have the flywheel turned
Pilot bearing for sure, but I wouldnt bother with the rear main seal unless it is leaking.
Ye mate lets rebuild the fuckin engine too
@@ripcurlB88 why not replace main seal with the clutch if u replace it u know 100% it going to last in till the time the clutch is replaced or what if u replace clutch then it starts leaking u have to pull it all back out do it all a again
@@ethanstewart3386 it all depends really. I can haul out a transmission in 2 hours on my back in my garage. So if it starts leaking, then its still a task even for me, but nothing a Saturday cannot crush. But there are more things that can go wrong with attempting to install a rear main seal, not to mention the added time. Most people dont know the difference between teflon seals and spring seals and how to install either. they slam them on, they leak, and complain. As long as your PCV system is working and not blowing out seals, it'll most likely be good for the duration that you own the car for.
I feel like a little extra tip should be to grease the pivot on the clutch fork. Many times have I seen/ heard a squeaky clutch simply due to the fact that there is no lube where the pivot is.
yup, that and the fork on the arms where the tob sits. instead of greasing the splines on the clutch, add some grease to the input shaft instead.
Pivot on the clutch fork as well as the little areas where the throw out bearing sits.
Any grease you suggest ?
flavrdPnut VW calls for a molybdenum grease which is usually included in the OE clutch kits.
It's a good idea to think about replacing rear oil seal to your engine while your in there it's behind flywheel, you would hate to have an oil leak and have to pull it back out. Changing pilot bearing should be done as well.if your vehicle has a internal clutch cylinder it should be changed as well. One last thing when using a clutch alignment tool make sure tool is all the way in and that the weight of the clutch disc does not bind the alignment tool as you tighten the pressure plate. When pressure plate is properly tightened and clutch disc is properly aligned with tool the alignment tool should pull out easily. Which will help in the reinstallation of the transmission. Hope this helps Good luck
Any idea what could cause clutch judder on cold starts only?
@@UncleBaz dual mass flywheel
Great tips thanks. I have changed the clutch on my Golf TDI AHF and my Leon TDI ASZ and although I followed similar practices, advice like this could save someone from having to redo their hard work prematurely.
Awesome video, I learned a lotta tips! I’m ordering parts for a 2000 Ford ranger with 197,000 miles. What besides the clutch kit should I be ordering? Kit includes the throw out bearing, alignment tool, pressure plate
The one most people forget is the release bearing.
Thank you for making this video. The transmission came apart in my 95 GMC Sierra mainly because the last person to install the clutch did not use an alignment tool. Seems like a no-brainer. Right? It caused a cascade failure starting with the first bearing, second bearing, then on to the vibrating input shaft.
Nope once clutch lines up you had a weak gearbox nothing to do with clutch change
Wouldn't the clutch plate line up as soon as you push in the clutch one time
This is one of the best videos I have ever seen for clutch replacement/installation. Very detailed and concise. Thanks for the tips Charles. Keep up the great awesome work!
Thanks for the video. I'm at the transmission removal stage. It was nice to see your calm and positive feedback. I got this!
Ahh its great watching this video AFTER doing my clutch and seeing everything i did wrong. Reused the flywheel bolts, rattlegunned the flywheel bolts, didnt replace throwout bearing, didnt break in the clutch... Lol
SWEEEEET! Anything to report 2yrs on?
@@davidmorgan2146 nope never had any problems at nearly 400hp
🤦🏻♂️
😱
Thats ok. Id will be reusing my bolts. Original japan bolts. Are still better then new china bolts
Gday, awesome video, but one thing, is there a cheat way to align the clutch disk without buying the tool? because it's very hard to find the right one for my car where i live.
Do you recommend grease, only a tiny amount on the face of the throw out bearing where it meets the pressure plate fingers?
I have seen this 50/50.
I have a Hilux making noise at the moment and my gearbox mechanic says it’s noisy due to this area being dry.
I thought grease here would fly off quickly
Have never seen that advice in any manual. VW, Cummins, Mack, International, Satoh. T.O. Bearing should do its design job when it hits the fingers. No need for slippage there. Any lube other than the sliding splines on the tranny input shaft or the clutch fork pivot is suspect.
OK so I got a question. Just did a 2015 scion tc 6 speed clutch replacement. Car started the first time. Shut it down, went to restart and sounded like the starter was binding up or not lining up with the flywheel. Removed and redid the process for the installation along with a New starter. Same result. This has me stumped
Because I was short on time I paid a local mobile mechanic to do my clutch. I now find it tricky finding the bite without getting a judder in 1st and reverse. Could this be the clutch alignment being out? I've driven it about 200 miles like this thinking it needed bedding in.
What do you reckon? I'm going to fix it myself as I'm done with trusting anyone else.
even though I am a civil engineer but really I enjoyed your demonstration about the clutch because I have Nissan patrol 83 models running well. how about 4 wheel gearbox and its connection to the clutch? Thanks. Greetings from Riyadh.
The last time I replaced the clutch in my '87 Mustang GT, I saved a few bucks by having the flywheel resurfaced instead of using a new part. There's a reason the clutch warranty requires that BOTH the pressure plate AND flywheel are new. I believe that hard spots from localized heating remained in the flywheel, causing significant clutch chatter that I live with every day. What a hassle...
I bought all new bolts and redid the seals on the ,020 trans, new self adjust clutch cable and release bearing. Royal Purple trans fluid. Didn't expect clutch and flywheel not to mate, as are new!
He isn't messing around when he says torque those bolts! Did a clutch replacement on a 01 Mustang GT and only didn't torque the pressure plate bolts (every other bolt was torqued). So as it was on the ground, clutch wouldn't engage and the thing could only roll. Went back and torqued it and bam! She grabbed gears like new. Please torque your bolts.
Wonderful tips, I can’t do it myself but I was finding ways how it works and watching this video it is really cool if you want to do it. Right now I am working with manyautosltd.com they can help with all kind of new clutch, clutch diagnostic, clutch repair reading, clutch replacement, clutch pedal, clutch master cylinder Etc.
All golden nuggets of advice! Upgrading the notoriously weak stamped out clutch fork is the only thing I think you could mention.
I plan to do that next. I am looking around for a transmission to "build". When that is ready I will swap the fork out too
One of the best automotive rapier videos I watched on RUclips. Totally resonating with a way I do my repairs.
Thank you
My shit
just ordered a SMF and 6 puck sprung clutch for my mk4. excited to get going on the job this weekend. going to rnr the rear main seal and replace the gear oil in the trans while im at it. cant wait to feel a more aggressive engagement
Sounds like you have some fun times coming!!
@@HumbleMechanic just an update, got it finished up without any hang ups. there is that chattering noise at idle but I expected it tbh with the smf. thank you for the tips.
While I have the back of the engine exposed, if there are any water jacket plugs that are steel I will replace them with brass. I almost always replace the pilot bearing. You mentioned lube on the clutch splines, I also add a little dab to the release fork pivot, and make sure the pilot bearing has adequate but not excessive lube. And I always check the input shaft seal as well as the rear main seal. If they have a lot of miles on them I'll just replace them.
All good tips!
So, I will need: the clutch pack, a pack of swisher sweets, water bottles, torque wrench, transmission jack, a 40 pack of dr pepper, gloves, possibly a 3m mask for particulates just in case, and the car has to be up on all four in order to drop the transmission safely correct?
Meanwhile BoostedBoiz
3 ugga duggas with the impact gun.
I was wondering if you recommend torquing the flywheel bolts?
Half of the video is about him torquing flywheel bolts. So yes.
Charles, what do you feel about replacing the multi plate TDI clutches with the single from the regular line? You can save serious parts cost.
+Alexander McKay do you mean clutch or flywheel?
How do you know what side of the clutch faces the flywheel? Thanks for the video!👍😀
All American Dream Chaser it's usually labelled "flywheel side"
I am really interested in how much clamping force is being applied when installing the flywheel, 10 bolts at ? ft lbs = 20 billion lbs of clamping force. is it over kill?
I feel as though nothing is overkill when you have a 25-40 lb solid chunk of metal rotating at 6k rpm beneath your feet.
they have to put a cage around the bell housing in race cars incase it comes off so clearly not
Good Video. Lots of good tips. One I would mention is pressure plate balancing to the flywheel.
Tip: don't let other people drive your car until clutch is broken in ☝🏿
+Alvin Ameyaw lol. That’s a good tip
Don't let people drive your car period.
@@thelagmeister unless they willing to pay $200 a day
@@juice323blue4 $200 a day? I'd charge that per hour they use it, just because if they wreck clutch, that's new kit, then labour on that, then the hastle of having to change it and the time the car is down and loss of earnings not having it on road. Simple.
Can you tell when clutch had been broken in?
Hi ! We changed the clutch assembly and put the old push-in bearing back because it was still good (we have the wrong type of new, TypeA, Type b possible.)Toyota Yaris 2008 year 1.3 vvti, 30.000 miles. It was a problem of heavy gearing in the 1st and 2nd gear. After changing the clutch set, the problem remained the same. What could be wrong ?Toyota is like a new one and was more in the garage than on the road.
If it's just 1-2 then maybe a synchro or hub
Thanks bro, doing my clutch today...
Prayers appreciated...lol..Hello from Ventura California...
3 Questions: 1- How can I spot a refurbished clutch which sold as new by a dishonest part seller? 2- Should I necessarily replace the flywheel (LUK part nr: 415034310 ) together with the clutch kit (LUK part nr: 623360500 ) on my 2010 Audi A5 with 63000 miles? 3- Mechanic just sat inside the car and checked the pedal and told me that I do not need to buy the flywheel. Can he be right? Or do you need to remove the flywheel to inspect? I need answers asap, Many thanks in advance.
Thanks for your videos Charles which are well done and very helpful! I have an Mk5 Golf GTI with 195'000 miles. The clutch was replaced at around 160k. Now the clutch pedal is sticking to the floor sometimes, engagement point is varying. According to the previous owner, this began just after the clutch replacement, he got the clutch bleed 3x with no luck. I replaced the master cylinder and gaskets and bleed around 10x, after a bleed the clutch works well but for the first miles but then tends to act as if air was present in the system (no air is seen when pressure bleeding, also it does not seem to degrade further with time). I am beginning to think that the slave cylinder, they put in when replacing the clutch, was defective from the factory and maybe not sealing well.
I wonder if you had a similar case? I saw on the video that you had a leaking slave in the gearbox. What were the symptoms?
Thanks a lot if you find the time to answer me :)
Slave cylinder seizing
@@richardrichard5409 thanks, the cause was unrelated to the hydraulics but was due to lateral play in the input shaft of the gearbox. Adding an additional washer solved the problem.
Don't forget the crankshaft pilot bearing/bushing.
We usually recommend replacing the pilot bearing/bushing.
If it is a bronze or sintered metal bushing we soak in high quality engine oil for about an hour before installing or follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
Could you explain why the pilot bushing needs to be soaked in good oil for a hour?
Thank you for the great info! This video reinforced much of what ive been taught and even answered a couple questions i have never thought to ask...
Is it normal for clutch pedal to feel softer than before after a new clutch and flywheel
I can't wait to be able to test this clutch out!
just make sure to break it in first, :D
Five. HUNDRED. Agonizing. Miles. None of which would matter in the least if you were rockin' your Hyundai Cilantro or Dodge Stratosphere. Great video, thanks man. Is the LSD install vid next..
; ] ?
Maybe if the monkeys did break out the torque wrench for the airbox cover screws they wouldn't strip the shit out of the plastic base so you have replace the whole thing. Ask me how I know.
headcas620 lmao some people are just bad at life
HumbleMechanic what about the spigot bearing? Shouldn’t you replace that too?
First of all, thank you for sharing.
I want to ask, what is the problem when the engine is running and the gear cannot be put in.
when the engine is turned off, go into gear and then start the engine while pressing the clutch will the car jump (keep moving)?
how to overcome?
Intrestrestingly there seems to be some confusion. The bell housing has a hydraulic Concentric Slave Cylinder/ Release Bearing (O2M) Transmission but the new Release Bearing featured, relies on a lever.
I used this video to identify the correct Friction Plate for O2M (Boss on Gearbox side) rather than the Double Boss Friction Plate. Egg on face if wrong.
Another great video my friend, I needed this so thank you! Still got the W8, but uncle have my son a 2002 Passat 1.8t in manual. The family tradition with Volkswagens continues.
Should've mentioned not pulling bellhousing on using the bolts, surprisingly a lot of people do this..
Say that when everything is tight, and it’s late in the day, and you have just 1/4’’ left to getting the dowels in
Can you make a video on how to properly break in a clutch? And also discuss the different clutch materials.
I found out the hard way, the clutch alignment tool isn’t perfect. Sometimes it has a little too much wiggle room, so make sure you hold it in the center by finding the center point with your fingers as you tighten the pressure plate bolts. Otherwise you’ll be trying to wiggle the transmission in forever like I did
Is the flywheel have specific position ?
Thank you very much
No, the flywheel is symmetrical
what about being sure to have the flywheel ground or replaced, or changing out the input shaft bearing?
Sir, I have a question here, recently my Mechanic replaced the clutch plate,cover and the bearing.After , the job was done, when I drive the car there's a metal grinding sound when the engine is running at 3000rpm. It's a Perodua Viva (Kei car). What could be the cause of this problem Sir... Pragasam, Melaka, Malaysia.
Always soak the the clutch in engine oil over night. (Motorcylces)
+Country Jesus yea wet clutches are a whole new ballgame
Some motorcycles have dry clutches.
R N 90% are wet clutches
Don't worry our RMS have that on auto pilot for us.
Motorcycle clutches are completely different and almost always submerged in oil.
Great video, thanks. What would be the significance to the word Valeo stamped on the clutch disc be ? I'm replacing the clutch set-up on my stock '69 Camaro 396 and I've been told stock set-ups are OK as long as they are stamped Valeo... Thanks, Paul
Valeo is also recommended here in South Africa
rear main seal?
Lando Only replaced when needed. Not a routine maintenance part
ohio houston like hell its not. It's a seal with a limited life span. With the clutch out, it's just 5 more minutes of your time. An RMS leak will ruin a new clutch. Get it done in tandem.
I'd trust a non leaking oem main seal over a new aftermarket seal. Fel pro isn't what it use to be.
what else would you recommend i want to change the rear main seal since i got the transmission out car has 125k miles alot of city drivin
If your in there might as well do it
Good morning mr now that you talking about the clutch replacement I have a Volkswagen Jetta 1998 I replace the clutch about two years when I rebuilt the trans but months later I have problems whit the motor but now I take off both to rebuild the motor I got it back may question is if can I reassemble the old clutch or not , what is the different between clutches , the stage 2, 3 are for racing only or can be use for everyday driving I’m in California i appreciate your time to read it.Thank you.
You can reuse the clutch assuming it’s not contaminated. Odds are you’ll need new hardware. If the car is stock, go with a stock clutch. The higher “stage” has more calming force
@@HumbleMechanic
Thank you
Great job Charles. I used Denatured Alcohol to clean my fly wheel. Came out super clean!
NICE! I usually have used acetone, but hat is because I always had it on hand. HAHA
Thanks I was wondering on what to use.
Hi great tips here. I've replaced my mk5 clutch and dmf with the bearing this weekend. Came all assembled, so bolted on the whole thing. It is Sachs kit. Cleaned everything, took my time to make sure its all torqued and done properly. The problem i have is when i select first gear and slowly bringing the clutch pedal up to bitting point without applying gas, the whole car vibrates, but no vibration in the pedal. So its only on pull away. All other gears are smooth and clutch its not slipping. Is this the case of clutch breaking in, and will go away after few hundred miles? Thank you
Maybe a failing engine mount?
@@HumbleMechanic thank you for the reply. Both engine and gearbox mounts are few months old. The big round subframr bush has some movement. Would it affect the clutch?
@@Wiliuz I had a shop install a new clutch/flywheel on my '93 BMW 325i (e36). Few thousand miles later, I had such a shudder when launching from 1st gear.! I initially thought it was a oil contaminated clutch. I had the shop replace the RMS (rear main seal). The oil plan (w/gasket) is right below it, I suppose that's a potential source of oil
I replaced the engine mounts, no dice. Turns out they impromperly installed the guibo (rubber flex joint, between gearbox & drive-shaft) -- it was *disintegrating*. That caused the shudder..the whole car SHOOK! Mysteriously it went away for several thousand miles. Then, I began to get GRINDING in 3rd gear. I went underneath to see the tattered remains of the guibo joint -- the bolt heads were damaged (grinding against flange of drive-shaft).
I ordered a new guibo, & installed it myself ..CORRECTLY!
#1a. Order the right parts. ;)
+J. Hunto's Garage yeah no doubt on that one.
Hi Charles, could you do a video on a Self Adjusting Clutch with a dual mass flywheel using the SAC tool and spring positions on a new install?
Great tips! Thanks for sharing. That's a lot of bolts in the flywheel.
my 95 civic has 209K miles, should I replace the flywheel or resurface it? I don't know how many times the clutch has been replaced by the original owner.
Why cant you use impact to remove?
axtra92
he said in the video, to avoid the air tool exhaust from kicking up harmful asbestos into the air you breathe.
Presumably a battery powered impact gun would be ok.
Hello, nice video. I have a question, maybe you can help. On my Ford Focus 2 I replaced all the parts regarding the clutch except for the pressure plate bearing inside the gearbox. My mechanic said it is ok to keep the old one which he cleaned it and greased it well. Although I knew this isn`t a good thing to do, in order to save some money I agreed and didn`t replace it. I mention that the bearing isn`t noisy but now I am afraid I ll have some problems later and it should have been better to replace it alltoghether with the other parts. The car has 160.000 Km. What do you think? Should I replace it now or wait, and how could I prevent any further problems? Thanks in advance for you answer.
Tip: Use an old input shaft for clutch alignment.
Clutch alignment can easily be done by eye. Mine always slide right on in.
I got to do the clutch on my audi TT quattro. All stage 3 stuff from ECS. I'm pretty nervous about doing it myself. I've heard its the better part of valor to assemble your clutch and flywheel and take it to a machine shop to get spin balanced as a unit directly from Fidanza
You can do that. I have never had the need to on any clutch I have installed.
Awesome! I value your input. I'm speculating the Reason why Fidanza said that is because they can't be responsible for what you bolt onto the Fidanza flywheel so if the whole thing is spun balance there is probably less chances of issues. Pretty much 100% of the clutches i've seen done at home came right out of the box and into service.
For a clutch align tool I wrap electrical tape around a bar to get the exact dia. Also I have never used any lube on the splines. I think the plate just stays against the flywheel and gently rubs and don't slide along the splines anyway. Also I have just made a new extra simple type gearbox lifter that don't need a jack. 1 for front wheel drive and 1 for rear wheel drive. I just put them on youtube if you are interested.
The best tip I can give when replacing a clutch is buy an oe clutch, most of the replacement clutches out there are just cheap junk they feel wrong and don't last more than a year if your lucky
One of the very weakest points of the Golf R is the oem clutch...is one of the most important things if you want to enjoy the real power of them, i had my tune did with low torque app.... And is really anoying get that low torque to ride....
I’ll second that,I bought a “recon “ one of eBay spring pressure would not hold , had to do job twice , on a 4x4 Ford escort ,
High performance clutch are hard to use dairy busy traffic ,you will understand if you drive a 911 before.
Hi can you get better than oe parts, their water pump only 30000 to 60000 km life.
Hey Charles help! I have questions about the lube and grease used in a clutch job! I know that usually in the clutch kit there is a small pack of “spline grease” but I was told that you want to put some anti seize on the shaft where the release bearing rest on, and other metal to metal contact points such as on clutch fork and pushrod, others suggest moly grease or lithium grease in instead of anti seize. However I wonder if you can just lube all of these parts with spline grease or you don’t have to grease any components at all except spline?
I only grease the splines. And just a little.
HumbleMechanic For this car it is hydraulic but older VW use cable and fork, so what about clutch fork in that case? Dry?
@@davidgruen7423 Just a tip: Original / old beetles, used cable + fork, and 'bearing' was actually a graphite (dry) 'disc'.
3:18 Really stretching that flywheel bolt animation :)
10/10 production value
Tip number 1 Take to reputable mechanic, save the heartache.
Make sure throw out bearing is not riding on pressure plate, or you can kiss your thrust bearing goodbye! Don't ask how I know.
Jesse Haskins im sorry but i must ask since i fear im going down the same path, hydraulic clutch?
I had a mechanical system with the clutch adjustment screw too tight, I was also missing a spring (clutch fork return spring), oops. This caused my thrust bearing to get eaten and I got copper in the engine oil. I got lucky that it didn't eat the crankshaft, I caught it early. I just had to replace the main bearings. It was a fresh rebuild, when I wiped it too :(
If your slave cylinder is not adjusted right the same thing can happen. The full proof way to look is to remove the inspection cover, and check to see if the throw out bearing is resting an 1/8th of an inch off of the pressure plate fingers. You can even push the clutch in and release it to make sure the throwout bearing returns to the proper place.
Riding the clutch can also cause thrust bearing failure. Hope this helps, and saves a headache.
What exactly does that sound like? I just did a RA4 conversion kit and 11lb flywheel on my 04 a4 1.8t. it kinda sound like a diesel at idle in neutral clutch out. Rattles on the down revs too. Some says it's normal... Everything was torqued to spec though...
Rattling from a lightened flywheel IS in fact "normal". That's the trade-off of ditching your DMFW, as a dual mass does the job of a harmonic balancer in absorbing the vibrations from engine pulses. Having a steel lightened flywheel (as opposed to aluminum), one of minimum weight (12lbs and up), and a harmonic/fluid damper will help minimize the vibration/rattling, but you will still have some at idle.
Molybdenum Disulphide is bad or good for manual transmission? Will it really reduce friction? Is there any side effects? Please explain it....
Yay for calling it, "Release bearing"
Last clutch I did was a 3pc kit. Disc, bearing, and pressure plate.
Humble, bought a clutch and flywheel from A Zone. Thte Clutch plate won't go into flywheel , and seat on second level, down. Hitting on sides. Old clutch plate goes down to bottom of new flywheel. Took back to AZ and none of their new clutch plates would fit either. Told me to grind down edges on clutch plate to fit. Is for 97jetta, 2.0. what you think? Thanks!
I don't love the idea of grinding. Can you get the flywheel turned? Does the new clutch disc fit the old flywheel?
I bought New Flywheel and Clutch. Old clutch plate Fits New Flywheel. After slightly grinding, new clutch plate Fits, tight like old flywheel. I will put back this weekend, and I'll let you know, Mr. Humble if all is OK. Thank You.
Really good to know, need to know of I need to replace clutch or slave cylinder or master clutch instead.
Hello, thanks for the video. I have Fiat Bravo 2 1.6 multijet 105hp. From 1-2 weeks I have an issue with the clutch - when I am going on first and reverse gear the car is vibrating and annoying rasping sound is heard on the front of the car. Sometimes I am not even able to shift the gears and when I turn off the car and pump the clutch and then the car start shifting and driving off without vibrations. Could it be a problem with the clutch release bearing? Or because of old brake fluid and air in the system? Thanks in advance!
I miss doing these 😢, why did everyone have to buy automatics
pseudoprodigy wanna do mine ? 👍😂😂
@Brian Hammond can you? It's not all of them ......
This is without doubt my favourite job, love doing clutches its a fine art to get new clutch in and running smoothly no juddering, breaking it in etc and then seeing how many miles you can get of it, I've just replaced the one in my diesel van, dual mass flywheel had the van from new and got just over 230.000 miles out of it before ot started making a noise and slipping, not bad for a delivery van.
You didnt mention how important it is to machine the flywheel
I know I ship and they I said well the flywheel looked pretty flat and course now it's back in the shop again with the severe fork wobble!
I hope i dont have to change my anytime soon. My truck is at 184K miles and going but i just got done putting ti back together because it wasnt always mine, heck before i started working on it i didnt know the previous owner. STILL DONT. but none the less i have it on the road and legal now but im having to learn how to drive it. Its a 1994 Ford Ranger inline 4 5 speed. I'm pretty good at shifting even without a tach but the whole stop and go motion is tricky to me. And a buddy of mine thinks it's misfiring and boy i cnat tell and i cant read the engine light flashes correctly. I looked up the firing order, even though i thought i had it right, changed the order, and im pretty certain there was no change. UUUUUGH. I hope i dont tear this little truck up, so far i love it and i wanna keep loving it lol.
U left out one important part the disc clutch goes on one direction not to install backwards
Most clutches will be stamped "gearbox side" on one side. It should also be very obvious that the clutch only fits one way vs the other. I always try the other way, and its like fitting a dowel into a hole vs a dowel onto a dowel kind of thing.
Mine just says Forward side, now is that forward into the transmission, or forward into the engine, i may be nuking this but don’t want to install improperly, I’ve heard, flat twards flywheel but at this point i don’t know what to believe
Brian BERNARD forward side would point towards the front of the car/to the motor.
Lol I did that, slapped it together, couldn't get in with it on, tried adjusting the pedal and had to do it over again. Live and learn I guess, and upon inspection it did say flywheel and transmission side... hindsight 20/20
Humble mechanic, what's your thoughts on lightweight flywheels and performance clutches. Thanks
I am running one on this car. The flywheel is about 10lb lighter
@@HumbleMechanic Thanks for getting in touch.
HumbleMechanic what downsides should I be concerned about using a smfw and the negative effects on the transmission. I just installed an Mfactory steel single mass and spec stage 2+ and now I’m worried that I’m going to prematurely wear out my transmission. It’s a 2011 335xi, should I be worried?
Hmm, RUclips decided to remind me of this video exactly 10 days after i replaced my clutch and now it feels like despite my best effort i somehow fucked up most of those...
All i can say is F
Same here.
GET MY CAR ON YOUR SHOW WANT A HUMBLE MECHANIC BUILT GTI!! YOUR THE BEST MAN NEED YOU BROTHER
so that's what the beards for! asbestos, fibreglass, ceramic filter!
Fiberglass in a beard is the most painful form of torture 😂
My F250 Ford Doesn't seem to slip until I shift into 3rd gear. This sounds like it needs a new clutch to me. The hydraulic phelper wouldn't show any effect , correct? My requests all come back showing either a f150 or some foreign car. Thanks for your help.
My main reason for replacing my car's clutch: It's fucking shit and it slips like fuck.
Okay, I get not using impacts to install the new parts, but why not use impacts to removed the old?
Just the tip, and only for a second!
AvE?
autoairsteer Haha yes!
alexaescht you wanna quickie, or the whole 2 minutes
Yea but it doesn't count if it's just the tip.
This is a good explanation in detail I’m doing the clutch on one of my trucks for the first time I had a mobile mechanic install it a 4 or 5 months ago and my girlfriend burned it out already I think he put a cheap one that totally shredded out I hate when they get no Orem parts that’s what happens when using cheap parts thanks
Ohhh crap, now I realized that if my clutch fails I'm fucked! Around here (Romania) mechanics didn't even hear about the torque wrench...
+n33niki that's not good at all
Then use the mexican aproach, take a cresent wrench and tighten until it slips, it means that the fastener is torqued LMAO
Dont worry, its 99% of local mechanics almost everywhere...At least at a few countries a know in Europe. Impact wrench are their best friend, torque wrench is alien stuff.
rly? im a mechanic from romania and i don't use a torque wrench and and i don't use clutch alignment tool and the cars i fixed worked just fine.
vezi oameni ca tine ne fac tara de cacat.
Hey Charles. I got a 2020 GTI manual that always had clunky shifting, specially 2nd gear - I bought it CPO from a dealership. It’s very clunky on a cold start, but it gets okay, not great, after the engine gets HOT. Already changed oil and aligned the shifter. Is this a common GTI issue? I got a suspicion the synchro is busted. Would it be worth taking it to have the gearbox open and rebuilt?
you ALWAYS factor in DOING the throwout bearing........save up the extra money, get the whole kit, so worth your time
its like not replacing the rear main seal on a small block chevy when you have the ability.....
seriously.....when ya think ya can get away with not replacing it.....its when it shits the bed
on another note.... i'm glad this was a VR6 being demonstrated... the clutch in my GLX started to go south and i'm on the path to replacing it.
I already replaced my clutch and I just had a panic attack
yeah...no doubt...this job is a serious PITB, especially on FWD vehicles...
Hello from South Africa. Can i replace a dual mass flywheel with a single on a Jetta 5 1.9 tdi? Looking forward hearing from you. Regards.
Didn't do any of this and breathed a lot of that shit😂 still works fine.
Hi, I did notice that you didn't mention aligning the fly wheel mms up properly so that you can get correct timing, regards chas
Asbestos is illegal to use now days..
jordan gatt they were only replaced by equally harmful materials which are ok for now, until the epa sides with a new producer of replacement materials, and deems the current materials harmful and dangerous to your health so as to phase in new materials and profit.
When rebuilding old vehicles, they have old clutches in them. Old clutches have asbestos. That's why I'm here -rebuilding two old Toyota FJ40s. This was critical info for me to know.
Fun fact... asbestos is still legal to use.
In what country, not in the US.
I have been dynamically balancing flywheel assemblies . Flywheel 1st single plane .then add the P plate . It is always out in 2 planes after put together . 14 grams of unbalance at 7000 rpm equates to hundreds of lb,s of force every revolution.