DIY for REAR SHOCK ABSORTERS - 160 tkm SERVICE - BMW F20 engine N13
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2022
- DIY for REAR SHOCK ABSORTERS - 160 tkm SERVICE - BMW F20 engine N13
#RearShockAbsorters #160tkmService #BMWF20 #BMWN13
- As in the previous episodes, I do a 160 tkm service for my BMW F20 car
- It's time to replace the new rear shock absorbers
- Last winter, the shock absorbers froze whenever there was frost
- And this caused a shock to the rear of the car, even if it drove a slight unevenness on the road
- Remove camber arm cover
- Remove the shock absorber lower bolt first.
- Note direction of insertion of screw
- Release screws on support bearing
- Press shock absorber together and remove upward from wheel arch
- See how slow the shock absorber returns!
- Remove protective cap and check sealing washer for any damage
- Release nut. If possible, use the BMW Special Tools 2 355 965 and 2 355 966
- I personally use the impact tool
- Using an impact machine is a risk of damage inside the shock absorber!
- Especially during the tightening phase, make sure that the shock absorber does not rotate
- These are worth changing at 160 tkm!
- Let's see how the new one has to move
- Be careful not to allow the shock absorber to rotate!
- Insert protective cap
- Next, the shock absorber is back in place
- Replace screw and nut. Note direction of insertion of screw
PARTS total cost: 159,48 €
2 x 33526873722: Shock absorber, rear
2 x 07119907372: Torx screw with collar
2 x 33326760668: Self-locking collar nut
2 x 07119907135: Hex nut wiht flange
2 x 33536855439: Additional shock absorber, rear
6 x 07119907137: Torx screw with collar
Let’s continue with the next episode! Stay tuned!
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Watch my previous videos on RUclips related to the maintenance and diagnose of BMW F20 with engine N13!
See the whole series from here:
• BMW F20 - Diagnosis an...
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My purpose is to encourage people to do things themselves!
Plus, this is a nice hobby for myself and at the same time I have the opportunity to save a lot of money by doing all the maintenance myself!
I’m not a professional with cars or motorcycles, I just want to learn how to do things myself.
If you do this service yourself, always check the correct instructions in the official service manuals. This is just my way of doing it!
Jani Voutilainen
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Авто/Мото
The lower bolt should be tightened at rideheight. That's preventing the lower shock bushing from twisting.
I’m thinking of changing mine myself. How do you tighten it at ride height?
I would assume put the bolt in but not tightened up. Lower the car so it’s on the floor then torque the bolt up?
Great tutoriatl, thanks. I hope I will use it soon. Do you plan to make a film about front absorbers as well?
Hey, great video! Do you know by any chance what size the nuts that connect the top of the shock absorber to the mount are?
Great video❤ where can I find all the torque info for front and rear suspension?
My f20 issues when shock cover bump stop slipped down then have some squeaky noise. Shock cover bump stop didn’t crack but I can fix back for temporary only by push by hand.
Good video, I would be tempted to add a small amount of gasket sealant around the top mount before fitting as it will help prevent future ingress. Or ideally replace the gaskets...
Hey great video. Does it matter if one shock is oil pressure and the other gas?
what is the name if that light/lamp that you are using? which milwaukee M12 is it, please? Thanks
Can this be done without using a vice?
Mine have failed at 90k miles.. I have new ones in the post 👍🏻
Great video. What is the 90 degree tighten at the end , is this tighten to 100nm plus 90 degrees ?
I have got the same question. Dont understand the 90gr
Yes it will be, tighten to nm then further 90°
My 2016 116D started giving sharp squeak sounds whenever I turn right. Earlier this morning, the squeak noises ramped up to whenever I drive. In the cabin i can more or less tell it's coming from the left rear. The rubber covers also have broken off. What exactly do i need replacing?
Most likely not your shock absorber like this video. Sounds like a squeaking bush. Have a look at the rear arms and see which are perished.
Hello, I am thinking of installing this variant in a standard chassis, the plans may include lower springs. BILSTEIN 19-218014. maybe they are shorter than the standard shock absorber?
For standard replacements on standard springs use Bilstein B4 shocks.. if you are going to lower the car go for B8 shocks and m performance bump stops
What sockets are used to remove the bolts?
Did you find out what socket will do it? BMW said they don’t sell the special tool
Why didn't you replace the top shock mount? They make noises even below 100,000 km mileage.
What in that part can keep noices?
At least nothing comes to mind. I don't think there are any moving parts in it?
@@JaniVoutilainen I did not have this part in my hand, but in this car several people were looking for the reason for the quiet knocking and that was the solution
@@SuperBasshunters yep, I changed the whole set shocks and mounts at 170kkm. And now when its cold weather there is soft knocking at rear. But only when cold. Will check this out and see what is happening
Great video @JaniVoutilainen! Thank you. I'm having this metallic noise coming from rear wheel, I suspect the strut or strut mount... can someone please advise if top strut mounts can originate this kind of noise? Thanks. Example of noise in the video below:
ruclips.net/user/shorts2iSR4c6-pW0?si=nEySyeVHb0qTbp51
We don't need the music.
Саленблок на амортизаторе долго ходить не будет не правильная установка ….. нижнюю гайку нужно затягивать когда подвеска находиться в рабочем положении!