When building my home wall, I had to decide if I wanted to build it as a spray or as a standardized board. I ended up building a spray. It's worth pointing out that time and time again, pros constantly mention that 90% of their training is on the spray wall.
0:18 "Detention board" is where you go to train when you pissed off everyone in the gym 😆 Apparently pros mostly train on a spray wall. But here is the thing - I'm not a pro. And I usually don't have a lot of time to spare in the gym, so I just climb set problems. My home wall is a MB mini knock-off for that reason.
I climb on the original set moonboard personally. I also do some training on a low angle spray wall. Having variety as you say is pretty important. Having benchmarks and pre-set boulders also forces me to do easier graded problems that are very difficult style wise. I think thats another major advantage that is missed on a spraywall as its easy to set the things one is familiar with already.
Thanks for the video, it was interesting comparison. I've started using the kilterboard a little bit for the strength training (as a very casual climber, not particularly serious training) and discovering how to benefit from it but haven't really understood the spray wall, despite it looking impressive for other climbers. I think I'm not that good at beta/route reading overall, so I guess it makes sense that it would be difficult for me to create my own problems or stick to the same holds...any tips how you set up your own problems intentionally on the spray wall?
Thanks! Yes, the Kilterboard is great for getting stronger! When starting on the Spraywall just take inspiration from other routes or boulders. Try to replicate moves or a full boulder, I think that helps and other than that just try it and put some moves together and just climb. It doesn't always be that fancy and in the beginning overthinking is probably the biggest problem. Hope that helps :)
@@daanschone1548 thanks yes I was able to do this with a shouldery move and then overdid it and hurt my shoulder lol one lesson is to take it easy indoors, because outdoor climbing tends to be more natural rest time whereas indoors need to enforce the rest time
i prefer moonboard because it was my first board and i love it for developing finger strength. kilter is easier for beginners but moonboard is the og finger developer
When building my home wall, I had to decide if I wanted to build it as a spray or as a standardized board. I ended up building a spray. It's worth pointing out that time and time again, pros constantly mention that 90% of their training is on the spray wall.
0:18 "Detention board" is where you go to train when you pissed off everyone in the gym 😆
Apparently pros mostly train on a spray wall. But here is the thing - I'm not a pro. And I usually don't have a lot of time to spare in the gym, so I just climb set problems.
My home wall is a MB mini knock-off for that reason.
I climb on the original set moonboard personally. I also do some training on a low angle spray wall. Having variety as you say is pretty important. Having benchmarks and pre-set boulders also forces me to do easier graded problems that are very difficult style wise. I think thats another major advantage that is missed on a spraywall as its easy to set the things one is familiar with already.
Solid vid
Cool video, well thought out and expressed.
Thanks 😊
Thanks for the video, it was interesting comparison. I've started using the kilterboard a little bit for the strength training (as a very casual climber, not particularly serious training) and discovering how to benefit from it but haven't really understood the spray wall, despite it looking impressive for other climbers. I think I'm not that good at beta/route reading overall, so I guess it makes sense that it would be difficult for me to create my own problems or stick to the same holds...any tips how you set up your own problems intentionally on the spray wall?
Thanks! Yes, the Kilterboard is great for getting stronger! When starting on the Spraywall just take inspiration from other routes or boulders. Try to replicate moves or a full boulder, I think that helps and other than that just try it and put some moves together and just climb. It doesn't always be that fancy and in the beginning overthinking is probably the biggest problem.
Hope that helps :)
@@felijocki thank you, sounds like great advice!
A fun way is to climb outdoors and try to replicate your projects, or cool moves indoors
@@daanschone1548 thanks yes I was able to do this with a shouldery move and then overdid it and hurt my shoulder lol one lesson is to take it easy indoors, because outdoor climbing tends to be more natural rest time whereas indoors need to enforce the rest time
i prefer moonboard because it was my first board and i love it for developing finger strength. kilter is easier for beginners but moonboard is the og finger developer
This is a much different debate which I will probably also make another video about:) This video is mainly about boards vs Spraywall.
Kilter/ moon boards are not all the same sadly
And then you mean worn out holds have less grip?