The art of setting a board
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- Опубликовано: 19 июн 2024
- The wall is finally set! The Baffle Board lives again!
There's a ton that goes into putting holds on and making your ingredients work. It's a lot of trial and error and fiddling and re fiddling, but ultimately, you get there and have a board to train and froth on. It's the best :).
If you want the setting cheat sheet book, flick me an email tom@baffledays.com.au
The book I love reading to my daughter amzn.to/3SaTSEx
For 15% off Awesome Woodys products, use BAFFLEDAYS at checkout
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Australian Climbing podcast: www.baffledays.com.au
Camera gear used:
Canon EOS R amzn.to/3FrWSGH
Canon L 16-35mm amzn.to/37qkBuf
Rode Video Micro amzn.to/3sjPF6e
Sony ZV1 amzn.to/3Pi7WL5
GoPro Hero 8 black amzn.to/3yn8SHG
GoPro hero 5 black
Gorilla pod 3k tripod amzn.to/3LTR3nC
Gorilla pod 1k tripod amzn.to/3ygZhSW
Manfrotto Compact Lightweight tripod amzn.to/3wf0HdQ
Thank you:
The North Face Australia
Tenaya
Black Diamond Australia
Clif Bar
Chalk Cartel
Awesome Woodys
Thrive Nutrition and Dietetics 
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Been anticipating this video!
haha been wanting to get it out for forever. its been ages
I've been waiting for this one!! Thanks Tom!!
haha it's been killing me to not make it and get it out there :)
Always awesome stuff! Keep things going! Can't wait for your "first" session to come online. Have fun!
Will be sharing a board session soon for sure!
Looks beautiful man
pretty psyched on it. lots more sessions to come :)
These videos are awesome! Definitely want my own board after watching them. Thanks for sharing
Psyched you liked it. Having your own board is very very fun 😀
Awesome vid Tom. Recently completed my overhang wall and it's been awesome, actually waiting for the stokt guys to finish there digitising stuff with the picture of the wall, hopefully be setting problems on it very soon 😊
haha the wait to get the board loaded up on the app is a killer. it's usually not too long a wait though. so good to have it on there. i love going back and re-remembering the classics
Got me psyched to reset!
A board reset is pretty awesome to reset the psyche
Those wooden holds come straight from heaven❤️
They are dreamy indeed
Love any spray wall content! I’m in the midst of resetting my board .
Nice! The froth is so high in those first sessions after a reset
Holds from Cartel? Hell yeah, so good supporting local hold makers. Murray is an absolute legend and the holds he's coming out with are so good. So good that his work is even making it onto local legends walls.
Yep, loving the bloc cartel and native holds. So good having quality Aussie wooden holds getting around
Great video Tom, I am excited to use this to help reset my home wall! You also said no feet on wooden holds, why is that?
Awesome, hope there's something useful in there to help you :). No feet on woods! 😀 i find the shoe rubber polishes the wood and makes them all yuck, more so then rubber on the plastic holds. It's a personal choice, I know plenty of folk who don't mind standing on their wood holds. Just me and my funniness haha
tom, you're the best.
haha thanks mate, just sharing the fun ✌️ psyched you enjoy it
Great video! Who makes the smaller yellow volumes?
Stax Volumes. They're awesome! Had them for about 3 years now
Thanks for the vid Tom, what's the reason for no feet on wooden holds? This seems to divide opinion. Cheers
Means that rubber doesn't get onto the holds and make them slippy, wooden holds are harder to clean and rubber can easily damage them
yep, i find the rubber scuffs and polishes the wood, more so then on the plastic holds. don't like it :). I know plenty who don't mind standing on wood
How often do you set new climbs? I always get bogged down on the spray, setting and tweaking climbs and not actually sending much in the session!
This is a video waiting to happen! Good topic! The answer varies, but I’d say on the whole I’m setting new boulders every other session. But the type of boulders that is will vary (easy, moderate, hard etc) will for sure go in depth on this in an upcoming video
Awesome vid mate, congrats on the new set. I have some questions. What is the amount of vertical space you have in your garage. You mentioned some dimensions (3 by 3.3 meters) but I'm guessing that's the diagonal length. I'm planning to build a wall in a room that allows only 2.7 meter vertical height, and the angle needs to be not so steep as beginners will also have to climb it. 20-30 degrees max. Do you think thats still reasonable or will we be just doing one move boulders on a wall like that?
I have 2.7m ceiling height. My old wall was 2.4m ceiling height and was plenty. You’ll have heaps of room. I’d opt for the steeper end of what you can and just get a few bigger holds. Volumes are great as well for making a wall not feel as steep and can make bad holds better. They are relatively simple to make if you don’t want to spend cash
Is there anything you do when placing holds to ensure a variety of limiting factors in the hard boulders that you'll later be set? Such as movement, positioning and tension as well as strength and power
Nothing explicit. Jus making sure I have enough holds spread around and have them facing in a variety of different angles within that small square area I was talking about in the vid. If you have the variety, you get good setting potential in the future :)
Nice set and good tips.
I want to reset my wall the second time and need some ideas.
Could you recommend some holds/brands for 30° and 60° wall?
Honestly, everyone is making good holds. I’m a fan of a mix of woods and plastic. Add some volumes, good mix of good and bad holds. 30 degrees is a nice angle for arcing if that’s your jam as well.
@@TomOHalloranAus thanks for the quick response. 👍😊
I'll add in my two cents as well. I don't have nearly as many holds and most of my holds are crimps as I was getting factory seconds and trying to get the most bang for my buck for the most holds. Anyways, I usually start with what feels like a V5/V6 climb since this is where I find the most fun climbs at my ability. Then, I will set a max or close to max climb anywhere from V7-V9 and just kind of make sure the moves are somewhat doable. After getting those set, I will have used anywhere from 10-20 holds right off the rip and I've made them somewhat separated to not bunch them allowing me to fill in the rest relatively comfortably. Fill in as you said making sure there is a little bit of everything in all the different areas for maximum diversity.
My opinion on the stokt app is that it is a really nice app, my gym uses it, I just don't recommend it since you can just use photos instead. Downside of this is you will now have a bunch of photos of your climbs in you photo library haha. Plus side though, you won't have to spend money on getting it setup, especially if you like to reset it fairly regularly or make changes to it often. I'll throw up a quick example video for what I do on my board using the photos app.
Great vid as always.
ruclips.net/user/shortsdD1y7VaYK0A
So you will see I use blue as the start hold, white as the holds that are on, red as the finish hold and green check mark for when I completed it. You don't get all the other bells and whistles that stokt uses of course, but it works just as well and is free.
Thanks for the input mate. For sure a good method for setting. Photo app is for sure a cheap method and allows for regular tweaks and setting. I really love the simplicity of the stokt app. Especially when you can go back and search old boulders in a grade range etc.
Aww baby Tom 😂 9:38
Total baby haha. 15 years ago!!
I wish I saw this before I set my woody. Mines a dogs breakfast
haha it's not too late to re-set :)
Can you give some infos on the matt you are using? Right now I got my crashpads from outside but looking for a gapless solution but not too expensive.
I bought these from a climbing gym that closed down. They are essentially a high jump mat. 300mm high. I love it. So so so good. Totally changes the moves I can do and the commitment I’m willing to put into a move. I used to rock boulder pads
This better not inspire me to reset my board
haha ill do my best to make it less good :)
Looking forward to more board! Did I just miss it or is the Hump of Trouble vid yet to be released?
not out yet. ive been ultra busy, but hoping to get onto it very soon.
Cheers
@TomOHalloranAus , you mention that you "made a cheat sheet below" at 8:25. I couldn't find this in the description - is it around somewhere?
Flick me an email. It’s mentioned in there 😉
There is/are any hold that you never really use? Or avoid? I usually only set on crimps and avoid pockets :(
I have a few leftover holds that didn't make the cut. pretty much everything on there is a good/fun hold. I tried to get as much diversity of holds as possible and try to set with them regularly.
After the set has been up awhile, do you check which holds get lots of love and which don’t? Then either adjust or make up boulders with the ‘less loved’ ones?
I sure do. Will make a video around this type of idea and others in the coming months
Fucking oath! Can't wait for proper board video's!!🤙🏼
100% some board sessions coming in hot, soon!
Speaking of not using wooden holds for feet, did you see the wedge video on Dan Varians woodie? All wood holds, but shoes arent allowed so they dont get polished.
Haha yes. A man after my own heart. Climbing on toe jam might be a little yuck though haha
Hey Tom, what angle is your wall at?
46 degrees. Got plenty more details about the build in this video ruclips.net/video/9NLqq1kPkuA/видео.htmlsi=m8BjZ_WgYh7AOcnF
Tom, you need more small underclings 😈
Undercling is definitely a tweak that will happen. I intentionally didn’t set them, but now miss them. They will be back 🥳
reupload?
??
"No feet on wood holds" What's wrong with it? Just want them to stay nice?
Yeah don’t like the polish the rubber gives to the wood and timber doesn’t seem to clean up as easily as the plastic holds. I like em clean 😀
Always with the know how!
But Tom, this ‘no feet on the wood’ stuff needs to go. They’re tools to climb better and the idea that they deteriorate from (foot) usage is more or less nonsense. See the School room board as a prime example: horrible quality wood that has stood decades of beating (with a handful of exceptions, which are still useable..) Put your feet on your Gucci holds, clean em after. 🤷♂️ Psyched for the board froth!
Haha I will hear nothing about why standing on wood is a good idea. Well, at least not my wooden holds. I’m totally ok for standing on other peoples haha. Would love to come and check the school room one day. Would be a dream come true haha