Olympic climber VS 'impossible' V7 benchmark
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
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Well, that was fun. I really enjoyed the little process on Wasp. I think it's HARD for V7 Moral of the story, holds need to be brushed! I've been really enjoying the whole moonboard experience. That's now, as of today, all V3-8 benchies done. I've tucked heavily into the 9s and 10s now and would love to sample the 11+ boulders as well. Always more to do :).
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The pacing and narrative of this video is just great! It’s so rare to see climbing videos that keep you wanting more until the end. Whoever edits yours are great
Haha thanks mate. Glad you enjoy. It’s me editing, filming and every thing else for this channel.
I would kill for that moonboard setup...God I'm so envious!! I'm going to try this climb today just for you :)
it's a pretty sweet setup he's got. perhaps the best shed in Australia
Lifetime goal right there
Great Collaboration. My two favourite Aussie climbers from the modern era. Keep those collaborations coming boys.
Definitely keen to spend more time in the Cujes Moonshed :)
Would love more board vids !
Been mostly just board climbing lately as thats where my stoke is. Tension is definitely my fav system board. Moon exposes my weakness like no other though. Made me realise my full crimp is really shit and i just generally dont try hard enough.
I'm very keen to make more board videos. I LOVE board climbing! I feel you on the moonboard exposing weaknesses front. I feel like I get my ass kicked on the thing. Not tried a tension board yet. Very keen to.
@@TomOHalloranAus Board climbing is the best, more please!!
My man's c14 pinch is about 15 degrees too easy
yea
l love how you can tell so easily and quickly. For me, it takes insane study, generally after intense failure, to realise a hold is slightly out. got you're eye in. nice one haha
@@TomOHalloranAus haha all the holds on my gym's board started spinning recently so I've developed a sixth sense for the moonboard hold angles😅
@@TomOHalloranAus when you climb something every day its easy to tell whats out of place
haha that's quite the superpower
Just wanted to say this was a really great video. From the title/thumbnail I thought it was going to be the same old camera in front of a moonboard showing a million tries, but it was super cool seeing Lee's shed as well as the discussion of beta and tactics. And all that to say I really enjoyed it even though I haven't been tryhard bouldering or board climbing lately at all, but it made me want to get back into it!
Ahh thanks mate. Glad you enjoyed it and it was able to exceed expectations haha. Trying hard on the board is pretty fun! You’ll have to get back to it. Keep the motivation fire burning 😀
Wow, what a board! Amazing set upn the wooden holds... I'm really jelous :)
It's a dreamy set up for sure
Would love a longer format board session video with Lee! Trying projects and talking about climbing…
Great video
It would be fun to watch
Yes, we will make that happen 100%
Another banger!!! We have a similar issue with a gym moonboard across the ditch, maybe if I set up my own ill be able to do all them V5s 😂😂😂
Haha there is definitely something to be said for your own setup which you look after. The gym boards can be difficult.
The mb at my gym is so incredibly polished i feel the pain
urgh it's so annoying. I know 'its just training,' but it'd be nice if it were a fair fight!
Hey Tom. This is a really great video. I especially like the bit at 5:35 when you try the other beta, which doesn't require you to be tall enough to reach row 11 from the kickboard. I'm a slightly shorter / less spanny climber (who can't span that distance!) and it's cool to see problems that don't rely on it. If you're doing any more Moonboard videos then one fun idea might be to find a significantly shorter climber who still climbs hard. It'd be really interesting to compare beta / styles!
Would love to make something like that. I think it would be super interesting to see how both of us approach the moves
Moonboard Classic !
It’s got a reputation it seems
Do you plan to make a video working the V9s benchmarks and up? Would love to see it!
Yes, I'll for sure be making something like that in the future. What would you want to see in a video like that?
@@TomOHalloranAus Yes definitely! I love board climbing content, especially when you break down the intricacies and all the micro beta that goes with it. Often times people think of board climbing as pure power but there is a lot of technique and tactics that go into board climbing and I love seeing it hightlighted and discussed!
Noted 👍. Yep, there’s a lot hiding underneath the seemingly simple pull
I knew what this BM was going to be before clicking the vid. Only 7 left to do, honestly harder than a chunk of the 9s and 10s
Haha its reputation proceeds it. It toally is harder than some 9s I think. Its proper hard!
Its funny I'm closer on wasp than a bunch of 6s and most other 7s. Climbing is weird like that
@@boyinred34 yep. Then you go outdoors and everything is once again, out the window grade wise. Most of my local V5/6 outdoor climbs are harder than indoor v9s I’ve done (not to mention some are very very sketchy) 🥱. I’ve just accepted the fact that there’s no real way to correctly grade a problem and it’s likely ego plays a part in grading due to the egregious sandbagging I’ve seen. Some climbs feel about right, others are “WTF” hard , my local crag feels like they’re pulling grades out of a hat. A v5 that’s harder than a v8/9 exists in my area….and they’re both at the same crag….Still so much fun with friends though 👌🏽
Awesome! would definitely like to see the process on remaning ones as you tick them off, well done!
Will definitely be making more 😀
Fun nice work! crossover moved looked much more fun and aesthetic to look at
Crossover was very much the preferred beta. Not often you get a move like that
That was awesome to watch. I recently got the 2019 set up in my shed and i was wondering if your mate Lee at the moonshed had any issues with moisture/condensation building up on his wood holds? With winter in full swing here in Victoria my holds are constantly wet !!!! Its interesting as on my spray wall the wood holds that are not plywood are just fine. Any tips to dry my holds would be unreal. Love the vids mate.
Yeah we had that on the bowlo moonboard last year when it was really rainy. The ply holds were unholdably wet. As if someone had sprayed them. Which was odd when the beastmaker wood holds 3m to the right, weren’t. I wonder if a dehumidifier would help?
@@TomOHalloranAus Hi Tom thanks for getting back to me. Yeah maybe its the plywood style of hold.
like sponges that attract moisture. A humidifier would probably help. Maybe ill wait until the nicer weather rolls round and stick with the 2016 setup for the winter .
Sounds like a plan. Good luck with it 😀. Those sorts of speed bumps in your training are annoying
BRUSH YOUR HOLDS PEOPLE!! BRUSH THE FEET TOO!!!
Words to live by! Well said
love your channel 🫡🫡🔥
Thanks mate, im psyched you're here :)
Maybe this is the reason some of the ahem “v5s” at my local crag are harder than v8/9s….that are at the same crag….? Degeneration/polishing of holds over the past 50 years? 🤔
I have a specific v5 in mind, i can hardly lift off on the start, then I’m about 2 moves away from sending a v8/9 200 yards down the trail. They’re just about the same pitch too 😅
Haha yeah I definitely think rock can suffer the same slipperiness. Some of the ‘easy’ routes at Ceuse are insanely polished and for sure are grades harder than their original form. Good luck getting up the 5 💪
Sorry Tom, you can't use dirty moonboard as an excuse, they're all like that.
I like how dirty lee’s board is 😀
G11 is utter rubbisch at my gym too haha... Honestly a lot of the yellows and also some of the more slopey blacks have zero texture left :'(
it's so brutal. as much as people can say 'it's good training,' its kinda frustrating too haha. I'm sending all my good grip videos to you from the mountains :)
When the beta is: "try it somewhere other than the bowlo"
Haha yep. Great thing is, that beta works for nearly everyone in the world!
and he has a trumpet, lol
THREE trumpets as it turns out!
but" DiRtY holds MaKe YOu STRongER"
bring out the mud trucks!
Moonboard holds are so cheap, it blows my mind that gyms will let their holds get in such bad condition. My local gym had holds that were over 10 years old. Like wtf? Lazy gym owners completely out of touch with their customers.
Yeah the boards feel like they get forgotten about in the gyms. It’s hard. Gotta get a group of you together to ask for new holds
Which board set up do you prefer climbing on and why? (MB, tension, kilter, system, splatter, woody, etc)
If it were one for the rest of my life, it'd be a good old woody/spray board. more versatile, customisable etc etc. Of the LED boards, i don't know. There's a million factors at play. I could make a compelling argument for all of them haha
@@lle9058ot necessarily. It could be a mix of wooden holds and regular holds. Its all personal preference some people want a full wooden setup because it looks nice and is not harsh on your skin.
Mix of both could be like this:
Crimps: Wood
Pinches: 60% Wood + 40% Plastic
Pockets: Wood
Slopers: Plastic (Get the big ass slopers)
One thing about full woody boards is that they don’t train slopers very well. Neither does the tension, moon, kilter board. So it’s best to mix wooden holds and plastic ones.
pretty sure it's feet first
Haha I will have to try that next time
E9 is twice as deep as on the one I climb on, the difference in holds is insane
Yeah some of the in consistencies across the holds makes you wonder who’s on the quality control desk
tom whats ur one arm max hang on 20mm eddge?
about 2 seconds when I'm feeling exceptionally strong. it's happened about 3 times in my life :)
@@TomOHalloranAuswaw that’s a good insight!!
that proves that you don’t need to have ridiculous finger strength to climb hard !
I thought that all the pros would get added weight on a one arm 20mm edge !
Can I ask your body weight
@@Outlabyrinth yep, not even close to adding weight to that edge. i'd like to get there one day though. but it's only such a small piece of the pie. I havent weighed myself for about 2 years. 2 years ago I was about 70kg. 181cm tall
@@TomOHalloranAus yep you can crush with what you already have ! Keep doing it ;) that’s already pretty good !!!!!