Great video! Just a quick comment about the stainless vs mild steel t nuts and bolts argument. While stainless steel is great for resisting the elements, stainless steel threads have a tendency to gall or seize up quite easily. Just an FYI from someone who works with stainless steel daily.
Oh hi jenn haha. Completely my pleasure. Your video helped us design ours so credit where its due. Hope to see you keep killing it both on the sending front and on youtube!
Tip If you get stainless Tnuts and bolts be sure to use a anti seize compound on the threads as stainless to stainless can seize up on just one tightening.
This is awesome. I just finished building a traverse board in the garage and loved the process. I would have loved to have gone for a huge, higher board. Really enjoyed watching your video (should have probably watched it BEFORE our build haha).
Easy way to get cheep and very funny holds: cut pieces of plywood and send it easily with a belt sander flipped over. You can manage to give the exact shape you want with this very powerful sending method, good for crimps and thicker regular wood can give very good bigger holds. This is cheap and it lets full place to your creation, the fingers feeling with a good sending is also great. I also use to cut half 4 or 5 inches diameter wooden cylinder, they are good for slopers. You can also fix a flat plywood piece on the wall and chip off wood to create some small holds, razor blade hold or even some shallow cracks (better for a wall not inclined)
Good video even though I’m not sure I learnt anything. A lot of what you said is moot due to where and how I plan to build my wall. Our house is built on a slope and the is 4 or 6 metres of clearance at the end. As soon as I saw the place I wanted to build a wall and this Christmas I’m finally getting started on it! I’m building it in stages though and the first stage is a platform (timber deck) just above the ground, below the house level deck. It’ll be about 4m wide and have 3m under the existing deck, which now has a conservatory on it so will be sheltered from a lot of rain. There should be about 4m of height available. Next stage is the wall itself which will be a three sided room with the open side facing into the “back yard”. The left and right sides will go straight up and the back wall will be in two half’s. The left half will go fairly straight, maybe 15 degree lean, then have an over hanging ceiling. The right side will go up half way then over hang before curving back towards vertical. Should end up with some decent variety and total area. But it’ll cost an arm and a leg for holds.
I was thinking about that, im worried if i spray the nuts that the threading size will change cause i want to spray the whole nut since that part is technically exposed if no bolt is in there
FYI- Stainless steel Mars really easy. If you end up going with stainless I would recommend never using an impact driver/drill for putting on the holds. :)
@@p1a2u3l4ify I think with the impact driver its just you have less accuracy of how it goes in and how much tension you have going through it so its just ramming all the way. And yes it takes me a whole day to reset and it works your forearms as well lol
@@p1a2u3l4ify because most stainless steel hardware is soft enough that it can't take repeated use (like moving holds around). It will get damaged much faster with power tools.
Great vid been looking to do something like this. I'm a carpenter/builder so would be easy. I did notice at 8:12 your boy nearly took someones/his own eye out with a stray nail tho 🤣 not done that since collage haha
I’m gonna be making a climbing wall in the near future and im going for a 40 degree angle, I’m starting to second guess my decision after seeing the thirty!
In the middle of planning and doing my video for “5 reasons not to build a home climbing wall.” I saw you posted this haha. You share some really good things to consider and did a good job making the video. I heard for the t nuts besides pounding them in it’s better to allow the screwing to pull them in. Also while climbing in Korea at a gym they had their own man made boulder, where you actually try to get to the top. They would set different routes all around it and usually had at least 10 routes on it. I think that was awesome. If I was making a climbing gym I would definitely want one of those.
hahah yeah, I think for me next time the screw ins would just give me a lot more peace of mind. I was checking out some of the free standing boulders you could buy but I just wasnt willing to go into the 8k range to get one even though my heart really wanted to haha. Just checked out your video as well dude and honestly I personlly wouldnt mind a flat wall at all. I think I get limited by the 30 degree angle alot because it all gets really difficult really quickly. Thats why I want to build the side wall as soon as I can just to have a bit more fun with some setting and not go... ok lets just make a hard ass crimp route. Planning on making a route setting video as well sometime soon if your interested, im not an expert by any means but I think the routes ive set are pretty fun haha.
Beor Ong I would think the movabilty of the T nuts would be better. That’s what I wish I had. Wow 8k that seems expensive. My gym I go to is already filled with a bunch of really hard crimp routes haha. Cool that sounds nice. I’d like to understand setting a bit more.
Id reccomend a hangboard of some sort instead if you can. Training muscle strength is easy with just a pull up bar, training finger strength is so specific that imo its better to have a hangboard...get the beastmaker 1000 and you get both since theres nice jugs to use
@@BeorOngYes. Pull ups and hold familiarization. Did I get that wrong though? I thought it was Campus walls and Campus boards. The vertical board with the variation holds.
@@juiliethakur37 campusing is climbing up without your feet, so a campus board are litterally just rungs that you would pull yourself up with using your arms, hangboards have the finger variations, system boards would be moonboards, tensionboard, kilterboard, spray wall is an assortement of random holds, and the woodys or homewalls is what i have here
@@BeorOng That's a lot to remember for an old noob like me! Pull up bar and hangboards it is. Going one 'crimp' at a time. I saw the other wall builds you recommended. :) Thanks.
Have you thought about getting the thicker gymnastics pads as crash pads? I feel like they would allow you to take more comfortable falls (Or maybe its just me because falling on crash pads to me is way more scary than falling in the gym lol)
Thanks mate that was very insightful. So you didnt have any issues building a 3M high structure? no permits required or issues with the council? I'm in VIC and wondering if I'd need council approval to do the same
Thanks for the informative video! I really appreciate that you showed the wall from different angles so I could get a feel for what 30 degrees looks like. I'm in the middle of building my own outdoor climbing wall, and I am still on the fence with how steep I want it to be, I'm leaning towards 30, but I might want it steeper. I also plan on building an additional vertical wall. Anyways, thanks again for making this video, it was quite helpful!
Hey thanks for watching dude and im glad it was helpful to you. If your building a vertical wall i think you can get away with any steepness. For me the 30 degrees is good but after a while its like well...cant climb anymore even though i want to. Thats why i want the vertical section so i can just keep going even if its lightly. If anything id actually wish i had it at 25 just to ease it off a bit so i can climb longer
1500 aud with the carpenter, not including holds which can get pretty pricey too, if you want to build yourself probs cut the cost to 800-1000 just for materials
idk where you live in aus but council can get you if your structure is above 3m (depending on regs). I know 3m is enough for a training wall but if you include structures behind the wall, that 3m doesn't seem much. It also limits the angles you can use as well. I've heard couple of guys who got fucked over because of NIMBYs who snitched them to the council. they were only off by 200mm. so double check and height limit is usually under car parking structures in council's dcp.
Brother sent an email to council before we built because we were concerned about the same thing. So we have a written ok to use as a back up. Thanks for chiming in though cause its a legit consideration
Great video mate! I built a 30 deg wall in my backyard here in Melbourne too. I'd be real keen for a review on the holds, Ive gotten a few holds from Big Red but I'm looking for more, so I'd love your thoughts on them!
Awesome effort bro hey you could have the bolts loose on the arms and adjust the wall manually. Drill holes for the bolts on the bottom to adjust its vert and the top loose enough to swing arms for different angles. Side wall, little lip on top with a roof you'll never leave home again 🤣👌 great effort. 🇦🇺🦘
Haha yeah i was thinking about adjusting it but if i get a vertical wall i dont think ill need to adjust it haha if yourr ever doen my side feel free to jump on the wall...though give me some warning so i can set some fun climbs
@@BeorOng hahaha awesome to hear and i appreciate that... too kind of you. I'm just beginning the indoor climbing scene but being autistic i make stuff alot so i thought I'd share my idea with you lol. I hope we aren't in for another lockdown the way Brissy is atm. Where do you normally go port melbs or the city? Regards Jono
@@jonowoodgo im south east so more bayside, la roca, boulderlab...the occassional urban climb and new one in chelt opening up soon should give me that new place haha
@@BeorOng nice... i went to Haileybury college in the South east back in the day lol I was from Mulgrave but reside in west Footscray. If i ever see you at one of the climbing places I'll definitely vome over and say g'day 🍻
For the fall zone, is there an affordable and safe alternative to laying out multiple crashpads? My wall will be indoors (garage) so have space to store away right next to it. Thanks for the help!
the cheapest option would be just any spare mattresses you have lying around, or if friends have any spare mattresses, depending on the build height and your comfortability of falling Id say another cheap alternative would be something like a 2-3 layer of jigsaw mats (a pack of 4 is 10 dollars AUD here), so assuming you cover a 2x2m space cost would be like $160 AUD for 3 layers, again it depends on your comfortability on landing on something like that vs actual foam matting (personally id be ok with it since it wouldnt be as high as my outdoor build. which already terrifies me lol. Otherwise the next cost effective solution would be to hit up gyms (like gymnastic gyms) schools, and even climbing gyms to see if they have any beaten up second hand ones that they might sell you for cheap.
Not entirely sure but based off these descriptions, PE cause ive dropped a couple before and some cracks have appeared. So more likely PE PU holds are light-weight, strong and impact resistant. PU holds won´t chip easily or break when tightened. PE holds are cheaper and offer ultimate wear resistance. PE holds also have good UV stability and thus they are ideal for outdoor walls.
this is a sick vid! i'm also looking to build a climbing wall at my place within the next couple months. is there any chance that you might be able to send me a list of the materials? would be really helpful, thanks!!
Jasmyn actually asked the same thing - I cant be perfect on it only cause the carpenter was the one that ordered everything but what I wrote for her was the following: Base frame: 2 2x10's (3m in length) - back end slightly lifted up Side post: 2 2x4's (3m in length - cut to size afterwards) - These are held together by 2 structural bolts at the bottom and one at the top. *Note the offcuts were used as a spacer between the wall frame and the side post (since obviously if you prop the side post on the outside of the base there will be a gap between. The back frame - 4 2x4's 3m high (vertical) and 3 horizontal (note they need to be cut to size for the middle ones. Secondary note - 3 because the bottom actually is part of the kickboard. The kickboard is 2 2x4's cut to size (2.4m), off cuts used as "rungs" in between as your studs for the kickboard and obviously for structural support. They are bolted down into the cement using I think they were just small 5mm bolts. 4 weatherproof ply (18mm thickness) the ones used here at 2.4 in length and cut for the required height. There are 76 hex screws used on the ply to the back frame Nails all over the place for just holding things in place while we were able to put the hex screws in 180 t nuts (again I would reccomend screw ins personally but they are more costly) and 20 screws for the kickboard (specifially for the holds - not neccessary if you are using bolt ons) There are 2 more structural bolts at the back as well that connects the base frame to the kickboard.
Great stuff, and nice to see a fellow Aussie build. So many US vids on youtube with everything in inches! I wanted to ask how the wood is holding up to the weather?
most affordable would probably be to get some off cuts from chippys or factories and cutting and sanding them to what ever shape you want. Probably the most cost efficient way of doing it and you get a nice array of different shapes. Otherwise not gonna lie most sets costs are generally the same and they arent exactly cheap. The next best option like I said in the video would be to ask your local gym if they have any old ones theyd be willing to sell
I dont but i can write them down for you ( ill have to guess the structural bolt sizes but honestly my answer to that is "any structural bolt that will support it will be good lol") my carpenter would be able to detail it bettet since he would have cut the frame up for the kickboard for example out of a longer piece
@@BeorOng That’d be awesome! I won’t be getting around to this until the end of winter, but I really like your wall! Thanks so much for making this video and willingness to share materials used.
Hey Jasmyn, sorry for the late reply (gyms reopened here and not gonna lie... I kinda just spent the days there haha -- as for list of materials: Ill try and break it down by sections and I apologize for metric and imperial usage here: Base frame: 2 2x10's (3m in length) - back end slightly lifted up Side post: 2 2x4's (3m in length - cut to size afterwards) - These are held together by 2 structural bolts at the bottom and one at the top. *Note the offcuts were used as a spacer between the wall frame and the side post (since obviously if you prop the side post on the outside of the base there will be a gap between. The back frame - 4 2x4's 3m high (vertical) and 3 horizontal (note they need to be cut to size for the middle ones. Secondary note - 3 because the bottom actually is part of the kickboard. The kickboard is 2 2x4's cut to size (2.4m), off cuts used as "rungs" in between as your studs for the kickboard and obviously for structural support. They are bolted down into the cement using I think they were just small 5mm bolts. 4 weatherproof ply (18mm thickness) the ones used here at 2.4 in length and cut for the required height. There are 76 hex screws used on the ply to the back frame Nails all over the place for just holding things in place while we were able to put the hex screws in 180 t nuts (again I would reccomend screw ins personally but they are more costly) and 20 screws for the kickboard (specifially for the holds - not neccessary if you are using bolt ons) There are 2 more structural bolts at the back as well that connects the base frame to the kickboard.
Was really 1500 but gave a bonus to the carpenter. Again we could have cut a few corners but i wanted it to last. Materials were in the 1000 range so if you can do the build yourself its cheaper
Get a zink spray for the wall anchors. It'll stop rust dead in its tracks and would prevent the inevitable slipping of a mechanical join due to the wd40.
do you know whether the zinc spray would affect the actual grooves of the t-nut? Ive been worried that if I spray them they'll become thicker and the bolts wont go in
@@BeorOng it's just a zink coating, there's essentially no paint in it so it rubs off really easily, it's just to keep oxygen away from the metal. I'd go light on the first pass, screw in a bolt and then go for a second and even a third with it in. Edit: like you said, ideally you'd run stainless but the zink covered ones will likely outlive the ply. Less play would probably be preferable to silicone oil as long as you have the leverage to do them up. 🤷♂️
Great video!
Just a quick comment about the stainless vs mild steel t nuts and bolts argument.
While stainless steel is great for resisting the elements, stainless steel threads have a tendency to gall or seize up quite easily.
Just an FYI from someone who works with stainless steel daily.
Thanks for chiming in. What do you mean by seize up? Like theyll get stuck?
@@BeorOng Yeah exactly. We use a product called Anti Seize on all our stainless bolts to prevent them from getting stuck.
@@jman5478 youre a legend thanks for the info. When I make the change over of bolts ill keep that in mind
Nuts i should say**
@@BeorOng Galvanized might be a better option for outdoors
WOAHHHH thanks so much for the shout out!!!! that came as such a surprise!! this is an awesome and informative video, keep it up :):)
Oh hi jenn haha. Completely my pleasure. Your video helped us design ours so credit where its due. Hope to see you keep killing it both on the sending front and on youtube!
Tip
If you get stainless Tnuts and bolts be sure to use a anti seize compound on the threads as stainless to stainless can seize up on just one tightening.
Just watched about 20 home wall videos and this was the most informative. Great work
Thanks man, glad I could be of help...definitely worth it for me to make a diff for our community =)
This is awesome. I just finished building a traverse board in the garage and loved the process. I would have loved to have gone for a huge, higher board. Really enjoyed watching your video (should have probably watched it BEFORE our build haha).
Thanks hannah! Always love watching your videos! Great to read your comment and absolutely, as climbers we always want to go higher dont we? Haha
If you want more protection you can take regular mattresses and put them in areas that climbing mattresses do not cover
Easy way to get cheep and very funny holds: cut pieces of plywood and send it easily with a belt sander flipped over. You can manage to give the exact shape you want with this very powerful sending method, good for crimps and thicker regular wood can give very good bigger holds. This is cheap and it lets full place to your creation, the fingers feeling with a good sending is also great. I also use to cut half 4 or 5 inches diameter wooden cylinder, they are good for slopers. You can also fix a flat plywood piece on the wall and chip off wood to create some small holds, razor blade hold or even some shallow cracks (better for a wall not inclined)
If you can get your hands on some AV8 anti-corrosion it’ll protect all of those bolts. We use it on aircraft.
Good video even though I’m not sure I learnt anything. A lot of what you said is moot due to where and how I plan to build my wall.
Our house is built on a slope and the is 4 or 6 metres of clearance at the end. As soon as I saw the place I wanted to build a wall and this Christmas I’m finally getting started on it!
I’m building it in stages though and the first stage is a platform (timber deck) just above the ground, below the house level deck. It’ll be about 4m wide and have 3m under the existing deck, which now has a conservatory on it so will be sheltered from a lot of rain. There should be about 4m of height available.
Next stage is the wall itself which will be a three sided room with the open side facing into the “back yard”. The left and right sides will go straight up and the back wall will be in two half’s. The left half will go fairly straight, maybe 15 degree lean, then have an over hanging ceiling. The right side will go up half way then over hang before curving back towards vertical.
Should end up with some decent variety and total area. But it’ll cost an arm and a leg for holds.
this guy taught me how to drop knee and i am very grateful
Das right
Great video, you could spray the back of the tnuts with cold gal paint to protect them from rust. Or cover the whole back in polycarb roof sheets.
I was thinking about that, im worried if i spray the nuts that the threading size will change cause i want to spray the whole nut since that part is technically exposed if no bolt is in there
@@BeorOng just give it a light spray then put a bolt in and out while its still wet.
@@Krankyolman *face palm* of course... i dunno why i didnt think of that. Thank you good sir
Thanks for this video! You brought up a few things I hadn’t considered.
Youre completely welcome, really glad that it was able to help people. Seriously thanks for watching
FYI- Stainless steel Mars really easy. If you end up going with stainless I would recommend never using an impact driver/drill for putting on the holds. :)
These are the types of discussions i love seeing...people need to hear these thingd so im glad you guys are chiming in
and why is that? i mean it would take ages doing it by hand with a wrench :O
@@p1a2u3l4ify I think with the impact driver its just you have less accuracy of how it goes in and how much tension you have going through it so its just ramming all the way. And yes it takes me a whole day to reset and it works your forearms as well lol
@@p1a2u3l4ify because most stainless steel hardware is soft enough that it can't take repeated use (like moving holds around). It will get damaged much faster with power tools.
Great tips - thank you!
Lovely tips! Def helps planning my wall
Nice work! I can really see how serious you are about climbing from this! 🧗♂️
just wish the weather would hold out more
Awesome video, man. Very informative, thank you.
thanks man, glad I could help
Great vid been looking to do something like this. I'm a carpenter/builder so would be easy. I did notice at 8:12 your boy nearly took someones/his own eye out with a stray nail tho 🤣 not done that since collage haha
$1600 is pretty good though! Makes me think I'll be able to build one sooner rather than later 😍
I have mine indoors (the elements are to erratic) and can't change the angle, it's fixed to the roof at 45 degrees. Hard climbing but lots of fun 😁
this is such a great video- so underated
Youre too kind man, thats made my day =]
Where are the lockdown sends Beor!!! Let me live vicariously through you haha!
haha theyre on my IG dude
I’m gonna be making a climbing wall in the near future and im going for a 40 degree angle, I’m starting to second guess my decision after seeing the thirty!
30 is quite difficult already maybe a 35, depends how hard you climb now and purpose.. or plan to put a side wall in like i want
In the middle of planning and doing my video for “5 reasons not to build a home climbing wall.” I saw you posted this haha. You share some really good things to consider and did a good job making the video. I heard for the t nuts besides pounding them in it’s better to allow the screwing to pull them in. Also while climbing in Korea at a gym they had their own man made boulder, where you actually try to get to the top. They would set different routes all around it and usually had at least 10 routes on it. I think that was awesome. If I was making a climbing gym I would definitely want one of those.
hahah yeah, I think for me next time the screw ins would just give me a lot more peace of mind. I was checking out some of the free standing boulders you could buy but I just wasnt willing to go into the 8k range to get one even though my heart really wanted to haha.
Just checked out your video as well dude and honestly I personlly wouldnt mind a flat wall at all. I think I get limited by the 30 degree angle alot because it all gets really difficult really quickly. Thats why I want to build the side wall as soon as I can just to have a bit more fun with some setting and not go... ok lets just make a hard ass crimp route.
Planning on making a route setting video as well sometime soon if your interested, im not an expert by any means but I think the routes ive set are pretty fun haha.
Beor Ong I would think the movabilty of the T nuts would be better. That’s what I wish I had. Wow 8k that seems expensive.
My gym I go to is already filled with a bunch of really hard crimp routes haha.
Cool that sounds nice. I’d like to understand setting a bit more.
@@GarrettEderer haha yeah for sure. Im just waiting for some cash to continue building haha. Its not a cheap hobby
This is so badass!
Best investment ever
Thanks for this video.
I was just finding such video from some days.And this is a quality video I would say.
Thanks man, that means a lot. Hoping to make more videos soon so if you have anything you want to know i can put something together
another cheaper alternative for the hold would be to use wood and make them yourself, it would take a lot longer but would be cheaper in the long term
Awesome video! I cannot seem to find 'Michael Maracci's RUclips channel with the adjustable wall design that you showed in your video though?
ruclips.net/video/5fIy58li-uE/видео.html here you go man and thanks for watching =)
I'm just about to install some campus boards to begin with, but it seems like a wall setup is absolutely doable. Thanks, Beor Ong.
Id reccomend a hangboard of some sort instead if you can. Training muscle strength is easy with just a pull up bar, training finger strength is so specific that imo its better to have a hangboard...get the beastmaker 1000 and you get both since theres nice jugs to use
@@BeorOngYes. Pull ups and hold familiarization.
Did I get that wrong though? I thought it was Campus walls and Campus boards. The vertical board with the variation holds.
@@juiliethakur37 campusing is climbing up without your feet, so a campus board are litterally just rungs that you would pull yourself up with using your arms, hangboards have the finger variations, system boards would be moonboards, tensionboard, kilterboard, spray wall is an assortement of random holds, and the woodys or homewalls is what i have here
@@BeorOng That's a lot to remember for an old noob like me! Pull up bar and hangboards it is. Going one 'crimp' at a time. I saw the other wall builds you recommended. :) Thanks.
What a nice voice!!! So good for concentrate to video!!
that nail coming out of the side never use a nail gun on stuff like this it will fall apart over time
Have you thought about getting the thicker gymnastics pads as crash pads? I feel like they would allow you to take more comfortable falls (Or maybe its just me because falling on crash pads to me is way more scary than falling in the gym lol)
haha yeah theyre super pricey though
Nice Video and build.
Thanks man, gyms reopening for us down here soon as well so now i havr options
What a great video
Youre too kind. Thanks man
Zinc and stainless steel is going to increase the corrosion due to the reaction between the different metals use aquatic grease
Interesting how long does that normally last for (as in how long till reapplication is needed?)
@@BeorOng i would think years as it will not wash with rain .
Thanks mate that was very insightful. So you didnt have any issues building a 3M high structure? no permits required or issues with the council? I'm in VIC and wondering if I'd need council approval to do the same
Thanks for the informative video! I really appreciate that you showed the wall from different angles so I could get a feel for what 30 degrees looks like. I'm in the middle of building my own outdoor climbing wall, and I am still on the fence with how steep I want it to be, I'm leaning towards 30, but I might want it steeper. I also plan on building an additional vertical wall. Anyways, thanks again for making this video, it was quite helpful!
Hey thanks for watching dude and im glad it was helpful to you. If your building a vertical wall i think you can get away with any steepness. For me the 30 degrees is good but after a while its like well...cant climb anymore even though i want to. Thats why i want the vertical section so i can just keep going even if its lightly. If anything id actually wish i had it at 25 just to ease it off a bit so i can climb longer
Thanks for sharing / documenting this, starting the journey myself - and will engage with a carpenter from the get-go!
Would you mind adding links to the materials you used? (mainly after wood)
I mean after wood its really just the T nuts lol, anything in particular you wanted?
Hey guys!
How much did this whole project cost??
Because I want to build too and I’m curious!!!!!!!
1500 aud with the carpenter, not including holds which can get pretty pricey too, if you want to build yourself probs cut the cost to 800-1000 just for materials
impact drivers should have a clutch on them to stop overtightening, fwiw.
wwould they work on a conrete wall
So funny found you here while looking to build one for Zylie! Haha
haha much appreciated -- hoping to make more content soon, just trying to nurse my knee first so I can get the footage I need haha
So dope!! Thanks for the video, loads of great info! Any chance you have the schematics lying around anywhere ?
Sorry dude, not really. I used the basis of the moonboard though which is on their website.
"size (does not?) matter"😂
;)
idk where you live in aus but council can get you if your structure is above 3m (depending on regs). I know 3m is enough for a training wall but if you include structures behind the wall, that 3m doesn't seem much. It also limits the angles you can use as well. I've heard couple of guys who got fucked over because of NIMBYs who snitched them to the council. they were only off by 200mm. so double check and height limit is usually under car parking structures in council's dcp.
Brother sent an email to council before we built because we were concerned about the same thing. So we have a written ok to use as a back up. Thanks for chiming in though cause its a legit consideration
Great video mate! I built a 30 deg wall in my backyard here in Melbourne too. I'd be real keen for a review on the holds, Ive gotten a few holds from Big Red but I'm looking for more, so I'd love your thoughts on them!
Ah awesome to hear.. not many people seemed to want one but since you asked, ill plan one in the next week or two
do you have a link to your build plans?
Awesome effort bro hey you could have the bolts loose on the arms and adjust the wall manually. Drill holes for the bolts on the bottom to adjust its vert and the top loose enough to swing arms for different angles.
Side wall, little lip on top with a roof you'll never leave home again 🤣👌 great effort. 🇦🇺🦘
Haha yeah i was thinking about adjusting it but if i get a vertical wall i dont think ill need to adjust it haha if yourr ever doen my side feel free to jump on the wall...though give me some warning so i can set some fun climbs
@@BeorOng hahaha awesome to hear and i appreciate that... too kind of you. I'm just beginning the indoor climbing scene but being autistic i make stuff alot so i thought I'd share my idea with you lol.
I hope we aren't in for another lockdown the way Brissy is atm.
Where do you normally go port melbs or the city?
Regards Jono
@@jonowoodgo im south east so more bayside, la roca, boulderlab...the occassional urban climb and new one in chelt opening up soon should give me that new place haha
@@BeorOng nice... i went to Haileybury college in the South east back in the day lol
I was from Mulgrave but reside in west Footscray. If i ever see you at one of the climbing places I'll definitely vome over and say g'day 🍻
@@jonowoodgo haha yeah dude for sure, im sure you will i legit climb everywhere!
were did u get the actual walls
bunnings but the carpenter bought em - theyre the marine grade ply but big hardware places should all have em
@@BeorOng ok thank u 🙏 great vid
@@dposch thanks man, i appreciate it! Just let me know if you have any othet questions and ill do my best to respond as quick as i can
For the fall zone, is there an affordable and safe alternative to laying out multiple crashpads? My wall will be indoors (garage) so have space to store away right next to it. Thanks for the help!
the cheapest option would be just any spare mattresses you have lying around, or if friends have any spare mattresses, depending on the build height and your comfortability of falling Id say another cheap alternative would be something like a 2-3 layer of jigsaw mats (a pack of 4 is 10 dollars AUD here), so assuming you cover a 2x2m space cost would be like $160 AUD for 3 layers, again it depends on your comfortability on landing on something like that vs actual foam matting (personally id be ok with it since it wouldnt be as high as my outdoor build. which already terrifies me lol. Otherwise the next cost effective solution would be to hit up gyms (like gymnastic gyms) schools, and even climbing gyms to see if they have any beaten up second hand ones that they might sell you for cheap.
What kind of Material are your holds made out of? And is there a significant difference between PU and PE material holds (In case of quality)?
Not entirely sure but based off these descriptions, PE cause ive dropped a couple before and some cracks have appeared. So more likely PE
PU holds are light-weight, strong and impact resistant. PU holds won´t chip easily or break when tightened.
PE holds are cheaper and offer ultimate wear resistance. PE holds also have good UV stability and thus they are ideal for outdoor walls.
great video! I made a lot of same mistakes you did
Haha well hopefully the video helps people like us before they make their own
this is a sick vid! i'm also looking to build a climbing wall at my place within the next couple months. is there any chance that you might be able to send me a list of the materials? would be really helpful, thanks!!
Jasmyn actually asked the same thing - I cant be perfect on it only cause the carpenter was the one that ordered everything but what I wrote for her was the following:
Base frame: 2 2x10's (3m in length) - back end slightly lifted up
Side post: 2 2x4's (3m in length - cut to size afterwards) - These are held together by 2 structural bolts at the bottom and one at the top. *Note the offcuts were used as a spacer between the wall frame and the side post (since obviously if you prop the side post on the outside of the base there will be a gap between.
The back frame - 4 2x4's 3m high (vertical) and 3 horizontal (note they need to be cut to size for the middle ones. Secondary note - 3 because the bottom actually is part of the kickboard.
The kickboard is 2 2x4's cut to size (2.4m), off cuts used as "rungs" in between as your studs for the kickboard and obviously for structural support. They are bolted down into the cement using I think they were just small 5mm bolts.
4 weatherproof ply (18mm thickness) the ones used here at 2.4 in length and cut for the required height.
There are 76 hex screws used on the ply to the back frame
Nails all over the place for just holding things in place while we were able to put the hex screws in
180 t nuts (again I would reccomend screw ins personally but they are more costly)
and 20 screws for the kickboard (specifially for the holds - not neccessary if you are using bolt ons)
There are 2 more structural bolts at the back as well that connects the base frame to the kickboard.
oh also just remember the wood is all pretreated as well since it needs to be weatherproof
@@BeorOng thanks bro! you're such a legend
@@andrewshinkim1736 send me a photo of your wall when its built man. Would love to see it
fosho 👌🏼
Hey mate, where'd you get that pretreated ply from? Trying to build my own woody in Sydney and cant find a place that sells this stuff pretreated
Bunnings should have it, ask em for marine ply
Fix the pads don’t have any gaps
Great stuff, and nice to see a fellow Aussie build. So many US vids on youtube with everything in inches! I wanted to ask how the wood is holding up to the weather?
Honestly the wood is holding out the best. The worst are the t nuts which are expected since theyre not stainless
yooooo australian toooo!
come say Hi if you ever bump into me
i could do a wall that moves up and down for 300 but I can make my own grips and do it all
Does someone know wich size to buy T nuts in? Like should I buy M10 or M6 f,ex
hey dude, drill holes will be 12mm, the T-nut standard is to get 3/8" or M10, just be careful on buying the bolts as they are 3/8" UNC, not UNF
Any good hold sets that would be good for mine? (Affordable) thanks👍
most affordable would probably be to get some off cuts from chippys or factories and cutting and sanding them to what ever shape you want. Probably the most cost efficient way of doing it and you get a nice array of different shapes. Otherwise not gonna lie most sets costs are generally the same and they arent exactly cheap. The next best option like I said in the video would be to ask your local gym if they have any old ones theyd be willing to sell
What you need to learn it to set routes by color
break the drill from torque XD XD
Do you have a list of materials? I’m thinking about building one for spring 2021
I dont but i can write them down for you ( ill have to guess the structural bolt sizes but honestly my answer to that is "any structural bolt that will support it will be good lol") my carpenter would be able to detail it bettet since he would have cut the frame up for the kickboard for example out of a longer piece
@@BeorOng That’d be awesome! I won’t be getting around to this until the end of winter, but I really like your wall! Thanks so much for making this video and willingness to share materials used.
no worries, about to head out for the day but ill get back to you as probably later tonight =)
Hey Jasmyn, sorry for the late reply (gyms reopened here and not gonna lie... I kinda just spent the days there haha -- as for list of materials:
Ill try and break it down by sections and I apologize for metric and imperial usage here:
Base frame: 2 2x10's (3m in length) - back end slightly lifted up
Side post: 2 2x4's (3m in length - cut to size afterwards) - These are held together by 2 structural bolts at the bottom and one at the top. *Note the offcuts were used as a spacer between the wall frame and the side post (since obviously if you prop the side post on the outside of the base there will be a gap between.
The back frame - 4 2x4's 3m high (vertical) and 3 horizontal (note they need to be cut to size for the middle ones. Secondary note - 3 because the bottom actually is part of the kickboard.
The kickboard is 2 2x4's cut to size (2.4m), off cuts used as "rungs" in between as your studs for the kickboard and obviously for structural support. They are bolted down into the cement using I think they were just small 5mm bolts.
4 weatherproof ply (18mm thickness) the ones used here at 2.4 in length and cut for the required height.
There are 76 hex screws used on the ply to the back frame
Nails all over the place for just holding things in place while we were able to put the hex screws in
180 t nuts (again I would reccomend screw ins personally but they are more costly)
and 20 screws for the kickboard (specifially for the holds - not neccessary if you are using bolt ons)
There are 2 more structural bolts at the back as well that connects the base frame to the kickboard.
oh also just remember the wood is all pretreated as well since it needs to be weatherproof
💗💗💗💗
ouch 1600!! damn
Was really 1500 but gave a bonus to the carpenter. Again we could have cut a few corners but i wanted it to last. Materials were in the 1000 range so if you can do the build yourself its cheaper
I personally wish I would have bought a crash pad and had gotten into outdoor climbing before trying to build my wall. Haha
Get a zink spray for the wall anchors. It'll stop rust dead in its tracks and would prevent the inevitable slipping of a mechanical join due to the wd40.
do you know whether the zinc spray would affect the actual grooves of the t-nut? Ive been worried that if I spray them they'll become thicker and the bolts wont go in
@@BeorOng it's just a zink coating, there's essentially no paint in it so it rubs off really easily, it's just to keep oxygen away from the metal. I'd go light on the first pass, screw in a bolt and then go for a second and even a third with it in.
Edit: like you said, ideally you'd run stainless but the zink covered ones will likely outlive the ply. Less play would probably be preferable to silicone oil as long as you have the leverage to do them up. 🤷♂️
@@Monkeyshaman thanks for the info dude, ive been contemplating it for a while, will probably grab a can this weej
@@BeorOng 😄 no problem, you've very likely made a 3 year old aspiring spiderman very happy. 👍
6:56 mr fly spotted
You dont know how annoying that was while filming haha
I can only imagine haha!
Nice wall! check mine out. Only cost me 500$ usd for all holds (made them my own) and the wall.
I hate these click bait algo titles.
bad
sooo.... how much did it cost @beor ong
Carpenter asked for 1500 for everything including materials but paid an extra 100 for the job wd
@@BeorOng thx