I agree... testing on a kit that has been primed or already has a color on it would be a good test for these tapes. From what I have seen, so far, is that many of these tapes were very hard to remove... so seeing would these tapes remove the paint beneath it, is an important test as well.
Frog tape for delicate surfaces (yellow) is very similar to Tamiya tape and is a lot cheaper. Most hardware stores carry it and there is a good assortment of widths. Been using it for a couple of years and have never had any issues. Regular painters tape always leaves residue, the yellow Frog Tape doesn't.
Yep! I use Frog tape quite a lot too. I've tried all the hardware store brands, but Frog is the best. I still use Tamiya for small super fiddly bits though.
Professional painter here, I'm a big fan of using the same autobody paint mask that I use for work when I'm spraying models. Autobody masking tape usually has a less tacky adhesive for easy removal but still strong enough to prevent bleeding and peeling, they also hold up a lot better to baking temps if you use a full size paint booth with heat and bake cycles. For MTE paper tapes I prefer Indasa or FBS Proband and also like FBS's fine line vinyl tapes, particularly the extra soft red for getting nice tight curves.
Or "seal" the tape going covering with the color that is under, aka if you wanna make a black stripe: paint black, put the tape, paint over it with back again, go with the other color
Those Tamiya tapes are awesome. I used to use regular masking tape and had to burnish the edge with my fingernail for a few minutes to get the tape to stick along the edge to get a clean enough line. I'm definitely going Tamiya if my budget allows.
Thanks for this test. Tamiya is the best tape that I have found to work for me, but it's nice to know what other tape's are available when Tamiya brand's are hard to find. I hope all is well with everyone's family's and take care. Keep rockin' the videos and the education that you do so well Robert! Happy Modeling everyone!!
I keep my thicker rolls of tamiya tape on a washi tape dispenser; handy little thing that I've even started using for my scotch tape. Got mine cheap from a hobby lobby, but you'll see them online too. They're big enough to fit a couple rolls, and I use a binder clip to keep rolls from rattling around if I don't fill the dispenser completely. The plastic blade they come with seems to work just fine, and you can always flip it for a different tooth size if needed
I was just searching your channel for masking tape tips a few days ago and here you are! Your channel has been so helpful. I discovered Daiso carries a masking tape that is very similar to the standard Tamiya masking tape. 30 mm wide, same length in the roll. $1.75
Here in the uk we get frog tape in multiple grades, I prefer the orange frog over the green. But prefer the bobby brands for detail edges and frog for filling space between. Still great video, great to know.
The Tamiya masking tape for curves also makes for excellent scribing guide tape for panel lining. If you have to go around curves on parts, it works better than any scribing line guide tape I've ever used.
A tech tip: Stick a bread bag tab on the end of the tape on the roll, it eliminates the rumble fumbling trying to find the end to pull up ( a big deal when you've just trimmed your nails. It's a hassle at 1st, but pays off in the long run )
For masking tape I recommend putting down your base paint then your masking tape of choice then back to your base (1st) paint followed by your second color/final color. If there is any bleed though it will be by that 2nd layer of your base paint . Make sure each individual layer of paint is dry or you will tear the paint on tape removal.
Robert - A source of Washi type tape (a.k.a. Similar to the Tamiya type brand) can be found as “The Paper Studio” company/brand, at “Hobby Lobby”. No thin/curve type sizes, but the Paper Studio gives similar performance to Tamiya but for more quantities and for lower price. The Paper Studio tapes come in multiple colors but their performance is unaffected. ( p.s. Both brands are “Washi” type tapes.)
I use a few different sizes Tamyia masking tape, blue masking tape and silly putty for complicated shapes. I digitally sculpt, print and paint 1/6th statues. Always Varnish before masking, silly putty doesn’t need Varnish, if the masking tape is too aggressive apply it on a T-shirt before to reduce adhesion.
i can only advocate for the gold color 3M, the 244 type, it is simply the best i have used, only issue it doesnt come in thin rolls as tamiya but you cut it yourself on the hobby mat. you can leave it for weeks and it will peel perfectly (i forgot painted pieces before...) and it works with water based and solvent paints and oils too
I always spray a couple light let that dry then do your spraying in light cots and you get less bleed through and some time I will use flat clear and spray that before I paint my main color
I like to use pvc film, as used for advertising purposes. Ask in a lettering shop for leftover pieces, best of a thin film with so called semi-permanent adhesive. I find it easier to apply, as you don't have to mess around with a tape roll.
Some years now I use Tamiya at the edge, and carefully burnish it down with a modified dental tool, polished nice and smooth.. then use 3M Scotch Blue to cover the bulk of the area to be masked, overlapped about 1/2 way over the narrower Tamiya. With careful burnishing, I never get under-creep, never have pull off of base paint when demasking.
Thanks for this review, I have been having a heck of a time trying to find the decent masking tape. I've been using the liquid tape, But sometimes that stuff doesn't work like I want.
I've been using tamiya. And it is the god of all masking tapes. That price is godly too tho. For doing curves I found the thinnest tamiya to be just as reliable. However it won't do hard bends. But you can cut it up into smaller portions and get the job done. I havent had any trouble with tamiya peeling paint either. Nor leaveing residues. However, i have never tried it on pure water based acrylics.
I’ve used a bunch of different masking tapes in my time of being in RC and Tamiya has been my favorite. It’s pricey but it works great. I have found that the same supplier who makes the Tamiya tape also sold it at Daiso and got a bunch for dirt cheap. Same tape but cheaper. The curve tape though has to be on a flat surface. If you apply to a curved surface, it’ll pull away. You eventually learn some tricks along the way but yeah, I’m stuck with Tamiya tapes. Worked great for the price.
Does your Leveling thinner contain any retarder? Cool paint rack! About the masking tape, great testing. I use all of tamiya type and sizes as well as blue painters tape, never had a problem with any of them. But I will burnish the tape edges with tooth picks and such. Thank you Robert.
That’s always a two- part problem. Sticky tape isn’t an issue if the paint has adhered well enough, but even low-tack tape can peel off badly adhered paint.
this is a great test you definitely need to try washi tape and a few different ways its a lot like tamiya and you can get them in large packs. mayeb with cheaper washi tape and more value pack like the 50 pack for 10$ please do try it on base and all that would love to know if there a difference from cheaper value pack and mayeb abit higher cost washi tape. great work as always
cool video. i work in a automotive body shop. you should get some of that tape. it has a strong bond but peals off easy. in most cases it doesn't mess up my kits, no tape is perfect.
With Frogtape, I have heard that it works best with water-based paints (it's primarily made for house painting); allegedly, the tape and adhesive are made so that the water in the paint helps ensure a seal between the tape and paint, but that sounds a bit much to claim.
Omg this reminds me of the toms supra i was building for a friend, i was stupid enough to put the glass in before putting the 127 water decals on , i had to mask the glass off do transfers/decals and lacquer with the glass taped up , i removed the tape after the lacquer dried and the lacquer reacted with the adhesive from the masking tape i tried to get the glass out as clean as possible but it pulled edges of the a pillars and roof , i had to buy another toms supra just for the shell glass and water transfers
I also didn't put the glass in or use rattle can lacquer the second time around there were to many decals to spoil it second time y, I used acrylic lacquer through the airbrush 😊
Not sure about the name but scotch/3M got a yellow masking tape used for auto painting, so far that's the best one I can find localy. But the same technique I use for wall painting I apply on models, a coat of the base paint or a clear coat before you paint, prevents leaks and markings even with the worse tape.
Thanks man! Recall you and I talked about my problems with any brand over Alclad black base. Guys Alclad does not tape off well without absorbing residue, even Tamiya tape
Since I was a kid, I have read that model painters never use the "raw" straight edge as is for masking. They tape a strip on a piece of glass & cut a fresh edge. The reason given was the tape was/is not trusted to have a true straight edge right off the roll! I have found this to be true on some rolls of painter's tape. Also taping on the glass takes away some stickiness from the adhesive. Burnishing the edge of the tape helps keep paint bleed from taking place. I like the Frog tape brand use with water based paints because their adhesive reacts with the moisture in the paint to prevent bleed. This is my experience. I use only Krylon acrylic paints on my outdoor train models, 1- cost, 2- at 1:20.3 scale, it's a larger model to paint, 3- paint used is UV resistant, clears resist yellowing.
Thanks for the video! Lately though I’ve run into a masking problem I don’t know what to do about- I’ve been using my silhouette die cutting machine that I had and the Tamiya masking sheets to create easy masking for like circles, arches, odd shapes etc. and whenever I say cut a circle out of a bigger piece, even if I burnish, there’s major bleeding underneath the tape on the circle circumference. Way more than even in your tests. I was surprised as I thought Tamiya would work better for that. 🤷🏻♀️ Im not sure what’s causing it…
I have used the green frog tape but found it leaves a residue on a painted surface. Will need to try the yellow version. I normally use the Tamiya yellow tape and will dry brush the color I am masking to prevent bleed thru.
Rex has Nice Rack... for his paint line 😆. Good test, looks like Frog tape might work in a pinch, but ya the Hobby tapes are just the best in every class, worth every penny.
When I working, we weren't allowed to use ANY type of painters tape to do ANYTHING. I built and wired machines for automotive paint lines, and if that painters tape was used, the paint would react from the vapors in the air from the chemicals used to seal the edges.
Had actually been looking for a different brand than 3M/Scotch blue tape. Those really are made more for thick goopy latex paint on a wall, where tiny imperfections are practically invisible (well, atleast most people don't inspect how well I painted my walls by putting their face up against it). Their adhesives just aren't as good, and seem to focus more on being safe to remove for a longer time (which I'm sure contractors look for on long jobs) Hobby tapes meanwhile are probably made knowing full well that we will want close ups of the paint job; there's less forgiveness here. They're likely also made keeping in mind that we as hobbyists tend to use very thin paints, so if it can mask for that, it'll handle spray paint too. The paintblock tech in frogtape claims it gums up on contact with latex paint to better seal - which had me wondering if that means it'll do nothing against acrylic or oil paints.
and Yes - i use masking tape on my 3D printed stuff when i paint it !! lol HA !! i was actually trying to find the right tape for the right job a few weeks ago. i started off with 3M Blue tape, but the adhesive is TOO Strong for acrylic paint. it peels right off. so we cut tape logs at work and sell them to aerospace companies (all tape comes in Logs before cut into Rolls). the trick to cleaning the sides of the dirty rolls is to use IPA and a Cotton Rag. it will clean right up. but after watching these videos using the Tamyia yellow tape, i decided to jump on board and get some as well. i figured its meant for Paint and Plastic... so might as well use it. but for using tape to hold something (like 2-sided tape) the blue tape works really well.
I find the paper based tapes to be hit or miss, sometimes they work fine other times they lift by the time you are ready to paint, especially with complex shapes. If it is something small and you paint right away there is usually no issues, but for a larger piece that takes a while to tape off, that is where I always get bit. I have been using the 3M vinyl tape that you get from Autobody supply stores or Amazon, for stuff that I really want a perfect line. It peels off nice and does not leave any residue and is available in several widths.
I'm guessing when you cut, it's actually applying pressure to seal the edge, so that's why it's clean. If you really push down on the uncut edges, you might have had better results. (then again, why do that when the Tamiya stuff just plain works?)
As far as cleaning the edge of the tape if it has junk on it. I just use regular masking tape and all the junk disappears. I only use it when I'm cleaning the roll of tape, it won't work once the tape is laid down on the model.
You should also try Frog Tape's Delicate Surface tape. It looks and feels almost exactly like Tamiya's tape (same color even) and for about $8 or so you get a LOT more than Tamiya.
I think the biggest potential problem with most of those tapes is more the potential of damaging the part trying to remove the tape after the fact. At least the ones that are harder to peel off anyway. Oh and one a side note I haven’t seen anything from over kill in years. Cool.
Mr hobby masking is superior to tamiya! I never have issues with edges using Mr hobby no matter how thin I make a strip of tape. The only downside is that 6mm is the thinnest roll they sell
I use Mr Hobby mostly, as they are much better for hobby masking compare to others, especially when u try to mask a complicated surface. Electrical tape will have residue left most of the time, and is too thick.
I strongly suspect that a lot of the "uncut" edge defects, are actually a product of the manufacturing processes used. I think the tools and methods used to cut the rolls at the factory leaves small defects on the edges. As far as I understand it, the tapes are wound on the cores MUCH wider than the finished rolls, and then are cut into rolls. I suspect some of the more specialty brands like Tamiya have sharper blades or better processes, with fine paintwork results in mind.
id also like to see a test where you use the tape over a painted surface. just to see if any of the brands pull up the previous layers of paint.
That would be a good test. They make some that have low adhesion for that specific reason, I think
I think this is a more important test.
I would love to see if any leave a residue over a painted surface like with paints like Createx, Mission Models, Tamiya, and MCW Finishes.
I agree... testing on a kit that has been primed or already has a color on it would be a good test for these tapes. From what I have seen, so far, is that many of these tapes were very hard to remove... so seeing would these tapes remove the paint beneath it, is an important test as well.
@@hangerbird maybe eve one that been paint, another color over it and it andcthectap put in the dehydrator to see if the adhesive comes off afterwards
I was taught to use an upside down funnel on the bench when working with tape rolls. Tape belongs either in your hand or on the funnel.😊
Frog tape for delicate surfaces (yellow) is very similar to Tamiya tape and is a lot cheaper. Most hardware stores carry it and there is a good assortment of widths. Been using it for a couple of years and have never had any issues. Regular painters tape always leaves residue, the yellow Frog Tape doesn't.
I use Frog tape for my models. Works great!!!
Yep! I use Frog tape quite a lot too. I've tried all the hardware store brands, but Frog is the best.
I still use Tamiya for small super fiddly bits though.
I do the same. The yellow frog tape is great. I’ll use tamiya on edges, then frog with plastic when possible, to fill the remaining area(s).
I was looking for this comment specifically, glad it was mentioned.
Professional painter here, I'm a big fan of using the same autobody paint mask that I use for work when I'm spraying models. Autobody masking tape usually has a less tacky adhesive for easy removal but still strong enough to prevent bleeding and peeling, they also hold up a lot better to baking temps if you use a full size paint booth with heat and bake cycles. For MTE paper tapes I prefer Indasa or FBS Proband and also like FBS's fine line vinyl tapes, particularly the extra soft red for getting nice tight curves.
I take a can of clear flat and mist the the kit with the tape on it always get great clear lines.
good tip
What tape do you use?
Or "seal" the tape going covering with the color that is under, aka if you wanna make a black stripe: paint black, put the tape, paint over it with back again, go with the other color
Those Tamiya tapes are awesome. I used to use regular masking tape and had to burnish the edge with my fingernail for a few minutes to get the tape to stick along the edge to get a clean enough line. I'm definitely going Tamiya if my budget allows.
I use the frog tape delicate surface version in the yellow package. I've had great luck with it.
I have had great luck with Frog Tape on big projects. I always have a bucket.
Thanks for this test. Tamiya is the best tape that I have found to work for me, but it's nice to know what other tape's are available when Tamiya brand's are hard to find. I hope all is well with everyone's family's and take care. Keep rockin' the videos and the education that you do so well Robert! Happy Modeling everyone!!
I keep my thicker rolls of tamiya tape on a washi tape dispenser; handy little thing that I've even started using for my scotch tape.
Got mine cheap from a hobby lobby, but you'll see them online too. They're big enough to fit a couple rolls, and I use a binder clip to keep rolls from rattling around if I don't fill the dispenser completely.
The plastic blade they come with seems to work just fine, and you can always flip it for a different tooth size if needed
I was just searching your channel for masking tape tips a few days ago and here you are! Your channel has been so helpful.
I discovered Daiso carries a masking tape that is very similar to the standard Tamiya masking tape. 30 mm wide, same length in the roll. $1.75
I have tried many different tapes throughout the years building models so far Tamiya & the 3m blue painter tape are my favorites
Here in the uk we get frog tape in multiple grades, I prefer the orange frog over the green. But prefer the bobby brands for detail edges and frog for filling space between. Still great video, great to know.
The Tamiya masking tape for curves also makes for excellent scribing guide tape for panel lining. If you have to go around curves on parts, it works better than any scribing line guide tape I've ever used.
I've been using that for curved panel lines for years. 😊
A tech tip: Stick a bread bag tab on the end of the tape on the roll, it eliminates the rumble fumbling trying to find the end to pull up ( a big deal when you've just trimmed your nails. It's a hassle at 1st, but pays off in the long run )
That or fold a corner over on itself. I've done that with duct tape before
@@douggoins2960 this is the way
For masking tape I recommend putting down your base paint then your masking tape of choice then back to your base (1st) paint followed by your second color/final color. If there is any bleed though it will be by that 2nd layer of your base paint . Make sure each individual layer of paint is dry or you will tear the paint on tape removal.
Robert - A source of Washi type tape (a.k.a. Similar to the Tamiya type brand) can be found as “The Paper Studio” company/brand, at “Hobby Lobby”. No thin/curve type sizes, but the Paper Studio gives similar performance to Tamiya but for more quantities and for lower price. The Paper Studio tapes come in multiple colors but their performance is unaffected.
( p.s. Both brands are “Washi” type tapes.)
I've tried that and it lacks the adhesive that Tamiya has, it's difficult to get a clean line due to lack of adhesion.
@@abby2674 Interesting, so far so good on my end.😳
I use a few different sizes Tamyia masking tape, blue masking tape and silly putty for complicated shapes. I digitally sculpt, print and paint 1/6th statues. Always Varnish before masking, silly putty doesn’t need Varnish, if the masking tape is too aggressive apply it on a T-shirt before to reduce adhesion.
i can only advocate for the gold color 3M, the 244 type, it is simply the best i have used, only issue it doesnt come in thin rolls as tamiya but you cut it yourself on the hobby mat.
you can leave it for weeks and it will peel perfectly (i forgot painted pieces before...) and it works with water based and solvent paints and oils too
It’s my 5th video of yours I have watched. Earned the sub - keep it up!
Welcome aboard!
I always spray a couple light let that dry then do your spraying in light cots and you get less bleed through and some time I will use flat clear and spray that before I paint my main color
Great video Rex! Tamiya curve looks great! 😎👍
It really is a great product, worth having on your bench
Thank you for testing these tapes!!
I like to use pvc film, as used for advertising purposes. Ask in a lettering shop for leftover pieces, best of a thin film with so called semi-permanent adhesive.
I find it easier to apply, as you don't have to mess around with a tape roll.
Cant wait for the thinner. I always try to grab a bunch of leveling thinner when I find it. Be great to have an option
This video is very helpful…thank you for doing all the research and saving us the headaches of masking.
This video was really helpful. Thank you.
Thank you very much on the testing great job.
If I am doing any masking that requires any bends or curves I find the brand FBS vinyl tape to work amazingly well.
Thanks for taking the time to do the testing. Very helpful. 🏁🔱
I wonder if the tapes that did good on the cut edges would work better on the straight factory edges if you rolled or rubbed the straight edges?
Some years now I use Tamiya at the edge, and carefully burnish it down with a modified dental tool, polished nice and smooth.. then use 3M Scotch Blue to cover the bulk of the area to be masked, overlapped about 1/2 way over the narrower Tamiya. With careful burnishing, I never get under-creep, never have pull off of base paint when demasking.
The delicate yellow frog tape is my favorite and I feel is alittle better then the green frog tape feels just like tamiya
You doing the work so we don't have to ! Thanks !
Like your music selection.
Thanks, fellow metal head I presume? 🤘
@@barbatosrex9473 Yessir! Maybe you can insert a “what I’m listening to” segment to your videos 😅
please also test Liquid masks and Masking Putty.. and maybe compare them with masking tape on how smooth the edges are
That's a great idea, testing the liquid masking tapes.
Thanks for this review, I have been having a heck of a time trying to find the decent masking tape. I've been using the liquid tape, But sometimes that stuff doesn't work like I want.
Frog tape also has a sensitive surfaces version. never thought to try it on models though.
I've been using tamiya. And it is the god of all masking tapes. That price is godly too tho. For doing curves I found the thinnest tamiya to be just as reliable. However it won't do hard bends. But you can cut it up into smaller portions and get the job done.
I havent had any trouble with tamiya peeling paint either. Nor leaveing residues. However, i have never tried it on pure water based acrylics.
Not seen Frog tape before, I love evergreen products too!
THANK YOU!
I’ve used a bunch of different masking tapes in my time of being in RC and Tamiya has been my favorite. It’s pricey but it works great. I have found that the same supplier who makes the Tamiya tape also sold it at Daiso and got a bunch for dirt cheap. Same tape but cheaper.
The curve tape though has to be on a flat surface. If you apply to a curved surface, it’ll pull away. You eventually learn some tricks along the way but yeah, I’m stuck with Tamiya tapes. Worked great for the price.
Does your Leveling thinner contain any retarder?
Cool paint rack!
About the masking tape, great testing. I use all of tamiya type and sizes as well as blue painters tape, never had a problem with any of them. But I will burnish the tape edges with tooth picks and such. Thank you Robert.
Now comes the big question. Does the tape peel off existing paint you've taped over? Some of these tapes you tested stick too well and peel off paint.
That’s always a two- part problem. Sticky tape isn’t an issue if the paint has adhered well enough, but even low-tack tape can peel off badly adhered paint.
try an autobody painters tape instead, not tacky enough to pull paint off but still a good enough bond that you won't get edges peeling or leaking
Very cool that electrical tape works so well. It makes sense though, seeing as it's just vinyl plastic with adhesive on it.
Getting closer to 100k
this is a great test you definitely need to try washi tape and a few different ways its a lot like tamiya and you can get them in large packs. mayeb with cheaper washi tape and more value pack like the 50 pack for 10$ please do try it on base and all that would love to know if there a difference from cheaper value pack and mayeb abit higher cost washi tape. great work as always
cool video. i work in a automotive body shop. you should get some of that tape. it has a strong bond but peals off easy. in most cases it doesn't mess up my kits, no tape is perfect.
i use frog tape and cut it on a glass pain the price point is good waiting for the thinners
Thanks, Robert.
With Frogtape, I have heard that it works best with water-based paints (it's primarily made for house painting); allegedly, the tape and adhesive are made so that the water in the paint helps ensure a seal between the tape and paint, but that sounds a bit much to claim.
THANK YOU FOR DOING THIS. I'm just getting back into the hobby and you are a great help. Keep up the great work. 😊
Omg this reminds me of the toms supra i was building for a friend, i was stupid enough to put the glass in before putting the 127 water decals on , i had to mask the glass off do transfers/decals and lacquer with the glass taped up , i removed the tape after the lacquer dried and the lacquer reacted with the adhesive from the masking tape i tried to get the glass out as clean as possible but it pulled edges of the a pillars and roof , i had to buy another toms supra just for the shell glass and water transfers
It was Poundland/dollar store masking tape and yellow tamiya tape that I used both reacted
I also didn't put the glass in or use rattle can lacquer the second time around there were to many decals to spoil it second time y, I used acrylic lacquer through the airbrush 😊
I used electrical tape in auto body repair to get around the corners of window rubbers, adhesive is stickier than masking tape with the electric tape
Excellent test. Thanks for doing it!
Not sure about the name but scotch/3M got a yellow masking tape used for auto painting, so far that's the best one I can find localy. But the same technique I use for wall painting I apply on models, a coat of the base paint or a clear coat before you paint, prevents leaks and markings even with the worse tape.
GIVE ME THAT THINNER !!!!!! WE ARE HYPED FOR IT AND THE PRIMERS !
OVERKILL 🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘i will be seeing them this weekend at the metalfest.
ive been waiting for a video like this! i dont really know much about tape but i own tamiya
This is awesome! ive always wondered if the tamiya tape was worth it but now i know for sure they definitely are! Thanks! :)
Great Test
Thanks man! Recall you and I talked about my problems with any brand over Alclad black base. Guys Alclad does not tape off well without absorbing residue, even Tamiya tape
Since I was a kid, I have read that model painters never use the "raw" straight edge as is for masking. They tape a strip on a piece of glass & cut a fresh edge. The reason given was the tape was/is not trusted to have a true straight edge right off the roll! I have found this to be true on some rolls of painter's tape. Also taping on the glass takes away some stickiness from the adhesive. Burnishing the edge of the tape helps keep paint bleed from taking place. I like the Frog tape brand use with water based paints because their adhesive reacts with the moisture in the paint to prevent bleed. This is my experience. I use only Krylon acrylic paints on my outdoor train models, 1- cost, 2- at 1:20.3 scale, it's a larger model to paint, 3- paint used is UV resistant, clears resist yellowing.
Thanks for the video! Lately though I’ve run into a masking problem I don’t know what to do about- I’ve been using my silhouette die cutting machine that I had and the Tamiya masking sheets to create easy masking for like circles, arches, odd shapes etc. and whenever I say cut a circle out of a bigger piece, even if I burnish, there’s major bleeding underneath the tape on the circle circumference. Way more than even in your tests. I was surprised as I thought Tamiya would work better for that. 🤷🏻♀️ Im not sure what’s causing it…
is there one for liquid masks
I have used the green frog tape but found it leaves a residue on a painted surface. Will need to try the yellow version. I normally use the Tamiya yellow tape and will dry brush the color I am masking to prevent bleed thru.
Nice informational video Robert an like always I appreciate the time an effort you put into are videos an thanks
Rex has Nice Rack... for his paint line 😆. Good test, looks like Frog tape might work in a pinch, but ya the Hobby tapes are just the best in every class, worth every penny.
Yet another great video to help us improve our skills
When I working, we weren't allowed to use ANY type of painters tape to do ANYTHING. I built and wired machines for automotive paint lines, and if that painters tape was used, the paint would react from the vapors in the air from the chemicals used to seal the edges.
Had actually been looking for a different brand than 3M/Scotch blue tape. Those really are made more for thick goopy latex paint on a wall, where tiny imperfections are practically invisible (well, atleast most people don't inspect how well I painted my walls by putting their face up against it). Their adhesives just aren't as good, and seem to focus more on being safe to remove for a longer time (which I'm sure contractors look for on long jobs)
Hobby tapes meanwhile are probably made knowing full well that we will want close ups of the paint job; there's less forgiveness here. They're likely also made keeping in mind that we as hobbyists tend to use very thin paints, so if it can mask for that, it'll handle spray paint too.
The paintblock tech in frogtape claims it gums up on contact with latex paint to better seal - which had me wondering if that means it'll do nothing against acrylic or oil paints.
and Yes - i use masking tape on my 3D printed stuff when i paint it !! lol
HA !! i was actually trying to find the right tape for the right job a few weeks ago.
i started off with 3M Blue tape, but the adhesive is TOO Strong for acrylic paint. it peels right off.
so we cut tape logs at work and sell them to aerospace companies (all tape comes in Logs before cut into Rolls).
the trick to cleaning the sides of the dirty rolls is to use IPA and a Cotton Rag. it will clean right up.
but after watching these videos using the Tamyia yellow tape, i decided to jump on board and get some as well.
i figured its meant for Paint and Plastic... so might as well use it.
but for using tape to hold something (like 2-sided tape) the blue tape works really well.
Should of also tried liquid masking tap.
Came to comment the same thing
@@jasonpowell2538 its honestly a game changer man. I use it for the small spots that normally id need to be super precise with an x-acto knife.
Yeah, I'd like to see liquid masking tape and masking Patty's tested. Like silly putty or that AK brand that is black.
A issue i found is that he masking tape will unstuck after a while, when doing multiple paint layers (like painting camo)
Cool 👍
thats a really nice rack !! and full of really nice paints !!
I find the paper based tapes to be hit or miss, sometimes they work fine other times they lift by the time you are ready to paint, especially with complex shapes. If it is something small and you paint right away there is usually no issues, but for a larger piece that takes a while to tape off, that is where I always get bit. I have been using the 3M vinyl tape that you get from Autobody supply stores or Amazon, for stuff that I really want a perfect line. It peels off nice and does not leave any residue and is available in several widths.
I'm guessing when you cut, it's actually applying pressure to seal the edge, so that's why it's clean. If you really push down on the uncut edges, you might have had better results. (then again, why do that when the Tamiya stuff just plain works?)
I’m sure you’re too busy for requests but I’d like to see you trying to spray Cerakote, a little overkill for models but leaves a nice finish
Bleed I can't see from a distance when it's on my shelf. What I have to instead worry about is the paint ripping off with the tape
As far as cleaning the edge of the tape if it has junk on it. I just use regular masking tape and all the junk disappears. I only use it when I'm cleaning the roll of tape, it won't work once the tape is laid down on the model.
You can get electrical tape in many colors, including white. 3M in the U.S. is probably the best.
Put tape on painted surfaces and see which pulls paint.
One of the only tests that matters for hobbyists.
Thank you for the test’
I would have liked to see the Scotch purple for delicate surfaces tape.
I'll add it to an update video for sure
Of the tapes that worked the best, which came off most easily? I don't want something where I would need to use a forklift to peel the tape off.
I found that blue tape ruined the finish of my model...very surprising. Since then reluctant to use. Can old tape deteriorate?
Volks USA sells tamiya tape clones and you get 5 rolls for the price of 1. I spent $30 and have enough tape to last a couple of years.
Tamiya is the best obviously...
You should also try Frog Tape's Delicate Surface tape. It looks and feels almost exactly like Tamiya's tape (same color even) and for about $8 or so you get a LOT more than Tamiya.
I did test it in the follow up video, check it out
I use the blue 3M painter's tape an so far I haven't had any problems with it an I ues the Tamiya
Great test and good information
most of those tapes are adapted from automotive paint suppyers.
I think the biggest potential problem with most of those tapes is more the potential of damaging the part trying to remove the tape after the fact. At least the ones that are harder to peel off anyway. Oh and one a side note I haven’t seen anything from over kill in years. Cool.
They've been very consistent putting out a new CD every 2 years
@@barbatosrex9473 I did not know that, the last album I knew about was back in 97 or 98. I’ll have to look them up again. Thanks.
could you test washi also?
Please make and
add Green surfacer to your paint line since no one has green surfacer out yet other than the one spray can you showed off !
Robert you 22:15 should do a video with the tape over a painted sheet of plastic
Mr hobby masking is superior to tamiya! I never have issues with edges using Mr hobby no matter how thin I make a strip of tape. The only downside is that 6mm is the thinnest roll they sell
I use Mr Hobby mostly, as they are much better for hobby masking compare to others, especially when u try to mask a complicated surface. Electrical tape will have residue left most of the time, and is too thick.
Me sees electric tape, now we're talking
I strongly suspect that a lot of the "uncut" edge defects, are actually a product of the manufacturing processes used. I think the tools and methods used to cut the rolls at the factory leaves small defects on the edges. As far as I understand it, the tapes are wound on the cores MUCH wider than the finished rolls, and then are cut into rolls. I suspect some of the more specialty brands like Tamiya have sharper blades or better processes, with fine paintwork results in mind.