Will Chemical Guys Clean Slate Strip Your Wax/Sealant? - Let's Test!
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- In this test I put a fresh coat of Meguiar's M21 Synthetic Sealant 2.0 and Ultimate Liquid Wax up against a fully undiluted concentration of the new Chemical Guys Clean Slate Surface Cleanser Wash soap to see what kind of impact it has on the surface tension.
If you haven't already seen my Dawn Ultra dish soap test, be sure to click the link here for that video: • Will Dawn Ultra Remove...
A few reminders for this video, the recommended dilution ratio for Clean Slate is 1 oz per 5 gallons of water. This really didn't seem to have much of an impact as both of these sealants are very fresh and have been allowed a 24 hour period for any polymers to cure properly to the surface. Chemical Guys does make a note that this will remove old waxes and sealants from the surface, but I wanted to show you guys how well it performs on fresh products to give people a better perspective of how strong some of them are in the short term and the limitations of these types of soaps.
Also, one of the things mentioned in the Dawn video that I do not mention here, is I continue to use an abrasive to remove the previous waxes and sealants for testing purposes. You do not have to remove every single product with an abrasive to try out new waxes and sealants, only a few products really require you to go above and beyond with your prep in order for the sealant to bond properly to the paint. Paint coatings also require this extended prep work. To give all waxes and sealants a fair test, I like to ensure the removal of the previous products before setting up the next review and I do this using a physical method as opposed to trying to dissolve them chemically. The results of this test and the Dawn test is a reason I use a light finishing polish to prep the paintwork prior to testing.
Clean Slate is also mentioned to be safe to use on plastic trim and rubber, whereas with regular dish soap it has been noted to possibly dry some of those out.
You can find Clean Slate priced at $9 for 16 oz.
Notice how M21 is much more impacted by the soap test compared to Ultimate Liquid Wax. Those products who don't have a strong short-term surface tension durability will be more affected by these tests compared to other products, and even be more impacted by just an extended water rinse. This is why I prefer those products that have that short-term durability that visibly hold up better over the weeks.
One of the most professional videos on car care products i have ever seen. ty
They're going to be calling/contacting you (One of the numerous car care products companies,)... if they haven't already. ALL of your reviews are well thought out, informative, and professional. You have the voice for it as well, but you're still coming from an unbiased, consumer angle. Big thumbs up, and keep the great content coming. McKee's 37 Hydro Blue Sio2 Coating???
Thanks I appreciate the good feedback! Hydro Blue came in last week, I grabbed it during the 25% off sale at Autopia, looking forward to trying it out against Hydro2 and Wet Coat.
love your videos, it's awesome that you take the time to do these. Easily the most informative videos like this on RUclips
Thank you spending time and money for this review!!
i dont mean to be off topic but does anyone know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account??
I stupidly lost the login password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me!
@Zev Miller instablaster :)
Something I learned over the years of detail.
Water beading ...
You can get beading even if there's no wax present.
I just bought a F-150 and started the process of getting the paint perfect before I install the Ceramic Coating.
Here's how far I've come, keep in mind I own a detail shop that's very busy so my truck comes in last.
Washed
Clay barred
Polished using m205 followed by Griots Paint Prep.
I've washed it twice since the polishing and it beads like crazy. Reason it's beading so the paint is super clean and slick.
The paint here is often polished so he can apply other waxes for testing so yes he will get beading also even if he tries removing it with Dawn.
Cajun Kevin See my video here where I showcase the water behavior after polishing the paint with M205, the behavior on the black Honda matches the behavior of the blue Honda: ruclips.net/video/tWpvXOoC1g8/видео.html
When there is no wax present on the paint I’ve been testing products on, the surface is polished and smooth, however it is impacted heavily by the surfactants in the soap, causing a drastic difference after the first wash and rinse. This is my control for wax free paint throughout my personal tests and it allows me to pinpoint the durability of the wax itself in the short term against the effectiveness of these strip washes. You may notice difference results as you mention on your truck.
WaxMode
I'll check it out.
Thanks for so many wax reviews, saves me from over shocking shop with not so good waxes.
Gotta get you over some Masterson's Car Care products for review!
Masterson's Car Care love to see that Greg 😉
So I would say this didn't work ....not surprising from chemical guys
> marketing is invented to sell the biggest shit on earth. Grtz
Yeah Chemical Guys have subpar products that don't work as claimed. Their clean slate product was reviewed by Waxmode on youtube and it hardly worked at all, pretty useless product and company.
Great Video. I would love to see if claying is able to remove wax and sealant.
Clay will definitely remove it that is just too strong not really a fair comparison.
I think Adams paint sealant, Wolfgang deep gloss pain sealant and Menzerna jescar paint sealants are the best, I wonder if Adams strip wash works any better than the CG.
The only thing this video did is make me want to buy Ultimate liquid wax I'm impressed lol.
LMAO, agreed
So....I'll stick to isopropyl alcohol dilution and a towel.
"You people who think you know everything really annoy those of us who do." :)
It's funny how everyone thinks they are an expert on which wash media to use. You sponge haters.... have you ever tested it? Or are you just parroting something you've been taught through your vast web research? Maybe you've been brain washed by the people who sell mf wash mitts?
I personally hate microfiber wash mitts. Not in love with sponges either. I'm a fan of a high quality synthetic wool wash pad. When used properly and with the right products, they perform best for me. I've washed high end cars everyday for the last 25 years.
BTW. Nice video. Keep up the good work
Man, that wax is not old. You said yourself it's been only 24 hours since you applied the wax. Let it there for 1 o 2 months and then do the test. Clean Slate is for removing old waxes and sealants, not fresh ones.
This is why I tested Clean Slate undiluted on the paint. The recommended dilution ratio they list is 1 oz per 5 gallons of water to strip old waxes and sealants. This is incredibly diluted compared to pouring it straight onto the surface.
Confirming.
Fresh Fuso 12 months is no way to remove with slate
I’m getting ready probably next week to apply fusso , how did you like it ? Why remove it , if you don’t mind me asking ?
@@aalfonso4706 sometimes when applied on dark coloured car you can end up with marrings, streaks , whatever it is called.
Some people say it is cause of uneven layer of coating , some say cause of sun.
It happened to me twice on black cars. 2 times out of 20 cars.
If you you get unlucky you will not be able to wash it of with anything, but only polishing to remove.
This is why I now want to switch to some other wax/sealant 12 months which will ensure no marrings and can be applied under direct sunlight.
Also Fuso does not keep your car cleaner.
It only makes cleaning easier .
No more tar remover needed, which is good enough reason for me.
P.S I now have 2 coats of Fuso only thunder gray colour.
Looks good 😌
Chemical Guys already has the Clean and Clear wash that does the same thing if you use 2-3oz. Not sure why they come out with the same thing but call it something different?
why not try on ice turtle paste wax ?
Great informative video, I've been looking for a pre wax cleanser to avoid using abrasives when I can. Have you tried any similar Griot's Garage products like paint prep and pre wax?
Haven't tried out the Griot's Garage cleanser, but I've got a ton of cleansers that I still want to do a lot more testing with as well as a stockpile of glazes. I used P21S/S100 Paintwork Cleanser over the years with great results. The water behavior left behind by the cleansers is something I want to get on video and I'll tie that in to how the glazes behave as well.
So the P21S/S100 is a good sealant stripper? I would love to find something that actually works.
I've used clean slate and follow up with some clay baring. Works successfully for me.
Alright, I'm confused. What side is the M21 on when looking from the driver's seat?
As I face the hood, M21 is on the left side, Ultimate Liquid Wax is on the right. Sitting in the driver's seat, M21 is on the right side, ULW is on the left.
WaxMode maybe that's why I'm so confused then. I thought M21 was their most superior sealant/wax. Turns out it's not very good at all.
Right, the polymer chemistry with M21 2.0 is closely related to their NXT 2.0 line. So even though they have these brand lines separated between professional and consumer, really the performance is blended. Right now the consumer based Ultimate line is their latest and most advanced polymer chemistry, they haven't made a Mirror Glaze professional branded sealant that matches Ultimate Liquid Wax.
WaxMode good to know. Thanks.
I was just in disbelief. Ive had ULW for years but recently picked up M21 thinking it was far superior. Doh!
CG Citrus Wash and Gloss mixed to stripping strength also does not strip waxes.
Interesting, or maybe not so after you explaining previously how you create a clean slate via polishing with M205. I am curious if Adam's recently released strip soap is any different? Any particular reason these soaps might be good to have in the arsenal?
Btw, do you keep track of how much clear is on that hood?
With all that mechanical wax stripping, he must be down to the paint by now 😊
Clean Slate seems to be nothing more than All Clean. I think Meguiar's D101 will do a better job of stripping waxes and sealants just so long as the dilution isn't to strong.
Can it be used in a foam cannon? And if so, do you know what dilution?
Great video...I thought Citrus Wash and Gloss was the choice to remove residual wax and sealant? Wait! Chemical Guys has a redundancy in their product mix? :) How many wash soaps do they have now? Looking forward to Chemical Guys Suds and Cheese car soap. It is a shame because some of their stuff I love. Will you be testing JetSeal in this round of testing?
JetSeal really doesn't have a durable surface tension, it's surprisingly less aggressive with water compared to a lot of sealants. So far it's been the most affected sealant that I've tested with Dawn or Clean Slate at full strength out of the bottle. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant held up nicely on the other half. I will have to put up a video of it, it's very likely to be the strongest case for Clean Slate working at full strength on a fresh sealant, unfortunately for CG it puts JetSeal at a stark disadvantage compared to other sealants for guys who really want that durable water behavior.
Figures, my Jetseal order came yesterday.
Let me know how you like it regardless! Smells pretty nice, like a fresh/lotion scent. A lot of people either love it or hate it, but I can see how the weaker water behavior can turn a lot of people away. At $40, I think Wolfgang DGPS is way more competitive because it seems to apply and remove easier than JetSeal for me.
+WaxMode good news is I got it for 30% off with last weeks sale.
Applied yesterday afternoon. As a Collinite 915 guy, I loved how easy it was to remove :) . We will see how long it lasts
So if you mention that it's for old wax/sealants, what is the point of this? To remove wax/sealant, you will have to minimally clay the car. For 100%, at least a 1 step polish.
At 1 oz to 5 gallons is the recommended ratio for old waxes and sealants. What happens when we just dump it on the paint out of the bottle on fresh products?
Watching this to see if it works realizing my wax is also cg shit; it'll strip np 😂
Not gonna lie, I still enjoy pulling out Pete’s 53 and their discontinued Classic Paste Wax. But something like Butter Wet Wax this Clean Slate would likely melt right through it.
We have been using Rejex on our 2015 fifth wheel camper. The last time it was real hard to polish it off. We want to go back to using something else. We use Turtle Wax Ice on the truck and like it a lot as easy to apply and wipe. We want to start using it on camper. What is easiest way to remove or wash off the Rejex from this tall camper ? or can we use Turtle Wax Ice over the Rejex? THX
heard wiping your car down with 90% alcohol removes old wax layers microfiber towel and alcohol in a spray bottle after a good washing
Could you test griots foaming surface prep? Seem to be strong stuff without reviews ! I use clean state for old waxes and sealants and its ok then but not very good for strong lsp.
Did you ever try it?
Great video!!!
Can you or have you tested HD poxy Sealant?
Hey bro. WaxMode. I just watched the Meguiar's wash plus remove wax from a cars door. Why don't you try it?
I've been working with Wash Plus for months now and the abrasives will remove the wax if used undiluted on the wash mitt, the problem is the potential light marring left behind using it like this.
so does this shit work to remove waxes? maybe it works better if the waxes are old and not like just applied. I say wax but i really mean all the Si02 sealants are more recent car glazes, sealants, coatings, etc.
Why don't you try ammo skin it's a sealent
What is your go-to for removing sealants? I currently have Hydro2 on my car from a few months ago, and it's still holding up well. Too well. I want it gone because I'm about to test out angelwax enigma. I saw some of your videos that you seem to use M205 to remove it. Do you actually use a rotary or DA to do that or do you just rub it in by hand? I've also stumbled across Meguiars Car Wash Plus which is a polishing soap, but I heard it's not the best at removing sealants or anything with a polymer base. I'm torn here. I might just wait it out until it deteriorates a bit more and just do a wash, gyeon prep, and then apply it on and if there's any remaining hydro2, so be it. What are your thoughts? Sorry for the lengthy read.
By the way, love the detail in your videos. Consider me subscribed.
I use M205 with the DA polisher using a light finishing pad to prep for the majority of the products I test. You can also try non abrasive paint cleansers like S100/P21S, I've been using McKee's 37 Coating Prep Polish as well with the DA, this will do a good number to whatever Hydro2 is left and leave a nice smooth base for Enigma, you can use Gyeon prep after a paint cleanser as well.
Wash Plus will also be able to abrade off many sealants, but for fresh products I need to use it undiluted on the wash mitt and reduce my section I'm working on to a 2x2 or 3x3 area, then reapply to the wash mitt for the next section. Some sealants require multiple passes working it thoroughly into the paint, and fresh Fusso Coat was resistant to a large number of reapplications in the same area (got to 13 reapplications before I gave up). On this unique Honda sticky soft paint, I have noticed Wash Plus leaving marring behind using it with a chenille microfiber for product removal.
Thanks for the detailed response!
Dang, I don't have a DA at my disposal and now I'm worried about Wash Plus marring. I have BMWs black sapphire metallic paint, and we all know how forgiving black paint is... I was hoping since my Hydro2 is relatively old at this point, it could be easier to remove than fresh Fusso Coat.
I would check out a non abrasive paint cleanser by hand I think this will be a great option for you since you're without a DA, you won't have to worry about marring either.
Awesome, really appreciate your time hearing out my situation. I'll look into a non-abrasive paint cleanser! Thanks again!
Just use dish soap. It'll strip the wax and take off all the grease. Chrisfix's soapy wooder haha. If you're scared of your trim getting messed up, tape it up.
Check out my video here where put Dawn Ultra dish soap up to the same test: ruclips.net/video/1IeJsOR3V6g/видео.html
Thanks, I did check it out.
I'm just basing it off of Chrisfix's super clean video. It's hard to say after wiping dish soap over the car once with a sponge. Chris foam cannon'd the soap and cleaned it over several times with a micro fibre towel to remove the grease/dirt.
I guess if you had newly applied wax in your test (which you did) It'll be harder to remove with one pass of dish soap. Only way I can really find out is when I test it out during my reading week.
@@YuStudios and what was your conclusion?
@@lilwizx it works lol
@@YuStudios thanks for letting me know
Will any final stage polish remove Fuso 12 months please ?
Got some clean slate on the way before I watched reviews lol, I need to strip my remaining meguiars spray ceramic wax off. It didn't bond to my paint correct because I didn't use surface prep spray and get my old ultimate spray wax off all the way
Meguiar’s Hybrid Ceramic Wax, the blue spray is very sensitive to paint condition, namely mild to heavy oxidation that can only be removed by abrasive polishes. There’s a video I did titled: “Maximizing the Performance of Your Wax/Sealant”, and this showcases the difference in bonding between only a clay + prep spray, versus abrasive polishing, and it’s extremely noticeable with Brilliant Shine Detailer how much better that bonds with polishing prepwork. HCW is similar.
That's funny if you used clean slate right like they tell you it works did it twice on my car an had no issues
Please note for the viewers the wax you were working on and how long it was on the paint before using Clean Slate. Thank you!
WaxMode scared him off waxy 😉
The wax & sealants you used for testing were far too fresh 24 Hrs. I would only use a polishing to remove old coatings as a last resort. If done correctly, old waxes can be easily removed without having to disturb the clearcoat.
How do I effectively remove fresh waxes and sealants?
I would use something like the Meguiar's Wash-Plus, it works well. May just take like two passes, ya don't over think it, or rub to hard.Then use an IPA wipe, that should work for new coatings. Try some.
I’ve worked with Meguiar’s Wash Plus, very cool product for me when I’m running hydrophilic tests, I used it extensively during my latest video with Hybrid Ceramic Wax against the other spray and rinse products. Some fresh products require multiple heavy passes with Wash Plus applied directly to the wash mitt, Fusso Coat was actually very resistant against Wash Plus used heavily like this. The problem for me is if I use Wash Plus like this I get residual marring left behind on the test panels that need to be buffed out. So it’s faster for me on the test panels to just buff the wax or sealant out with the polisher from the start.
Klean Strip Prep-All I use prior to buffing and also as a post-polish panel wipe to remove the polishing oils, it has been working great for me, much better than other wax and grease “removers” like Rustoleum or Duplicolor, or IPA sprays. It has consistently performed the best if my goal is to knock down the wax or sealant to a significant level, but even some fresh products can be very resistant against Prep-All as well which is why I do polish the paint out with abrasives to remain consistent for product testing.
Another option would be too try the Purple Power Heavy Duty Car and boat wash. It does a great job & it's cheap .
I've done a lot of testing with Purple Power Vehicle & Boat Wash, but it's not effective in the short term against most of the products I've tested it against, even after raising the temperature to as hot as it will come out of the tap from inside.
Nice , creating more swirls and scratches using that sponge !
The myth that all sponges are bad for paint is as ridiculous as the myth that dish soap is an effective wax/sealant remover. I've been using this Proline brand grout sponge as one of my wash media for over 10 years, and I spend the due time to inspect the paintwork (using a color-match swirlfinder light) before and after every single product application. Even with this particular paint being incredibly soft and easy to marr, this sponge is not inducing swirls.
WaxMode boom
I don't want to polish my paint to to apply new waxes/sealants.....
Just use a pre wax cleaner that has an abrasive in it
whats the point of having "professional" grade products if they dont last as long nor as durable as consumer line? wtf
Ultimate came out well after M21, so the chemistry is going to be different in the products. Meguiar's new M27 Pro Hybrid Ceramic Sealant is their newest professional grade paint sealant.
@@WaxModeOhh that makes sense. Thanks for explaining this!
Can clean slate remove turtle wax seal and shine sealant?
Clean Slate will not be able to touch a fresh Seal N Shine layer. Not sure about a weathered layer of Seal N Shine.
Best way to strip wax is to just park in the sun and come back like in 2 or 3 months : D
try to do Automagic Ez paste car wax!!!
Would this be something good to use after paint correction before applying paint sealant or ceramic?
I would recommend Klean Strip Prep-All to use after polishing rather than pulling the car out and doing a wash. This soap you can actually use it after polishing for a stronger wash but I don’t prefer to do that method and Prep-All will tackle through polishing oils better in my opinion.
What do I use to remove old wax before applying new wax? I use Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax. Will Clean Slate work?
For basic waxes/sealants like Ultimate Liquid Wax, it's not necessary to ensure full removal of older protection before applying them on top, they can handle remnants of lasting protection underneath. Going a step further, a good wash with Clean Slate or a prep wipe with Klean-Strip Prep-All, or CarPro Eraser, Gyeon Prep, or 15% isopropyl alcohol wipe could help, or the best prep is a light finishing polish (abrasive) with the polisher and foam pad.
For long term coatings is when you really need to make sure the surface is prepped thoroughly, as you only apply the coating once, and generally polishing is necessary to provide this prep with a follow up prep wipe afterwards. 30ml bottle of coating only provides 1-2 applications of the coating that expires quickly after opening, this is why you would want to maximize prep to allow the coatings to bond to the highest level, whereas with waxes/sealants that are only designed to last a few months of effective lifespan it's not as necessary for extensive prep as their shelf life is much higher, and you will be reapplying after a few months continually.
I have newer Harley and have kept in immaculate condition. Since new have only used HD Quick Wash and Gloss detailer for tank & fenders. I want to try Chemical Bros HydroSlick ceramic coating. Do I need to use clay bar first or is Chemical Bros Clean Slate suffice??
Only clay if necessary, usually if I’m polishing the paint with a buffer I will clay by default. If the paint still seems very smooth after the wash and not rough/scratchy when going over with a dry microfiber afterwards, you may not need to clay it. I’ve never tried HydroSlick so I can’t give any feedback on its install.
@@WaxMode As I learn more I discovered quickly that Hydroslick is not a true ceramic coating but a hybrid. Which is OK depending on what you want ceramic coating apparently last up to six years and typically a little bottle is $100. After further research I decided to try the Maguires liquid Ceramic coating
You take very good care of your car but you use a sponge to wash it? Just surprised you don't use a microfiber mit!
That's something I mentioned in the Dawn test video, these ProLine grout sponges are a gem of a sponge, really safe to use on paint and we've been keeping an eye on them closely for years and years. I do a ton of quick washes on the front of the car and I use the ProLine sponge for testing because I can let them air dry without issues.
When I do a full wash I use a couple chenille microfiber mitts because they cover more surface area and hold more water, but I'm still a big fan of this specific grout sponge.
+WaxMode makes sense! Thanks for clarifying that for me!
For your quick washes, what are you using? ONR? Thanks :)
I heard clean slate can only strip CG wax/ sealant xD
That's because the sealent and waxes are weaker I think
their products are POS, thats why.
So I just bought some clean slate and will be "stripping" my car soon. I'll also be following it up with m205 so that should really strip off the old wax yes?
Absolutely, M205 is the only product you need to use and this will strip the paint of all previous waxes and sealants.
WaxMode cool! Maybe I'll just follow the M205 polish with a wash with clean slate to ensure she's spotless before I apply soft99 fusso coat! 😎
WaxMode Hi WaxMode, just a quick follow up after I finally got around to using clean slate to help decon my car ready for polishing and finishing with Fusso Coat. So I have to say that I was pleasantly surprised at how CSlate performed on my "old" wax. The top coat was 2 month old CG butter wet wax with Megs NXT under as the sealant that was applied probably over 12 months ago. The trunk lid I polished with ultimate compound and 205 a couple of weeks ago in an attempt to remove some scratches and then I sealed the trunk with soft 99 fusso coat. So I found that with a stronger than recommended mix, about 3 ounces to 5 gal, I went over the car twice very thorough. The difference was very noticeable with the exception to the trunk with Fusso which didn't budge as expected haha. So I think with "older" wax, specifically a carnouba wax, I have found that clean slate does what it says, it really knocks the wax down to maybe not 100% but I'd say an easy 90% wax removal. I did this before an iron-x decon followed with a quick clay bar. I thought you may be interested to know the results on somewhat older and less durable carnouba wax.
cheers 😁
Ok sooo I have Jet Seal on..i want to remove it and start new..what DOES take it back to the start then???
You're guaranteed to remove it with a light finishing polish like Meguiar's Ultimate Polish or M205, use with a soft finishing pad. With something like Jet Seal I think a non abrasive paint cleanser will have a large impact as well and prep for your next product.
Great! Appreciate the help...Jet Seal again or Menzerna Jescar Lock?? I live in South Florida so need something not only strong but long lasting...I used Menzerna paint correction years ago on a past car n luved it.....any advice much thanks!!👍
No problem, I definitely recommend Jescar Power Lock over Jet Seal. Jet Seal is just not aggressive enough for me, it's been one of the most easily impacted sealants in the short term compared to other sealants, and I think other sealants offer better evidence of their durability for a lower price. Menzerna was also my primary medium and finishing polish back in the day, pricey but very good abrasives and I'm looking into trying out Jescar's new line of polishes for testing, heard great things so far.
Awesome thank you!! Menzerna it is! 👍👍👍👍
Smart man
Ulw is not a sealent its just a synthetic wax
hakman239 which is exactly what a sealant is, a polymer-based synthetic wax😂
So clean slate is a load of crap?
No...Ultimate Liquid Wax is just that good ☺
What is the meaning of the term S.M.A.R.T. in business ,,
what dillution ipa ratio you using for remove old wax? thx
I do not use IPA for the removal of old waxes and sealants, for that purpose I use a light abrasive finishing polish. Once I polish the paint I'll use a 15% dilution of IPA to help remove some oils or residuals left behind by the polish.
Ohh okay, but can i use ipa instead for removing old wax? Im currently using 1:1 dilution..is it to strong?
Af s
I've seen straight 91% IPA have little to no effect on some products and others it has an effect after literally dumping it on the paint multiple times. Ultimately, I'm not confident that I can recommend any particular dilution that will consistently remove products across the board with a simple wipedown, and I think the higher IPA concentration you have, the more risk you lend to marring the paint and removing gloss. It's not a good lubricant at all. Mike Phillips has a great thread as well and he cautions people from going over 25% IPA, you can read that here:
www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=208081
I'm still on the hunt for something that I can use as a strong enough paint safe panel wipe that can quickly and consistently remove waxes and sealants which also flashes cleanly from the paint without marring it. And I think that's one of the problems with trying to chemically remove a product, you get to the point to where too strong of a formula is going to decrease the finish of the paint which forces you to polish it out anyways. Whereas if you started out polishing you will both eliminate the previous wax/sealant layer and maintain or even improve the finish of the paint. A clay bar has the same problem, it can remove a wax/sealant layer but many times I'm left with clay induced marring that I'll end up polishing out.
These are some of the reasons why a finishing abrasive polish has become the answer to ensure the removal of previous products and why there's no universally agreed upon panel wipe product in the detailing world that is an effective chemical wax/sealant stripper.
Thanks for your reply.. i currently using 50% ipa.. so its to strong right.. next time i will change to polish like you said then 😆.
Stripping wax = 100% unnecessary waste of time. Car wax doesn't "build up" Complete myth.
People will literally buy products without seeing any measurable results. Incredible.
This is my line of thought with these tests: Let's say I polish the paint and apply a specific sealant or wax and I'm not happy with the performance after a month. I decide I want to bump it up to a durable paint coating instead. The questions that come up are, do I really need to polish the paint over again, or can I use a "stripping" soap like this and go straight to applying the coating after a quick wash, or can I just coat right over the wax/sealant and risk that the $50-150 1-2 use coating won't have trouble bonding properly on top of the surface?
You're definitely right where pretty much all waxes and most sealants aren't going to be picky with what product is already on the paint, and if something does go wrong you can just reapply. With coatings becoming a lot more popular here in the U.S., companies that are coming out with these paint prepping products force us to really test them out to get answers of what they will and won't do with how fresh the product on the surface is.
One thing I do notice though, is the bottom product can have an impact with how the product applied on top behaves, especially with spray waxes/sealants and I can see this through the water behavior. So I like to have that consistent fresh surface when testing products to judge them all at the same level.
I have a show truck that i literally never wash ( it's garaged 24/7) I have applied layers upon layers of waxes glazes and sealants over ten years of owning it. Never have I noticed a "buildup" of any kind nor would I, or anyone else, know what it even looks like.
Just spread whatever you want over anything that's already there. Everything is compatible. Paint prepping is a complete myth unless you are cleaning for a repaint. Then just use a solvent based wax and grease remover.
There are NO products that "bond" to the paint. Its impossible without etching chemically or mechanically.
The industry will sell snake oils all day and tel you they are "necessary"
nah, its all relative. you might be happy with the look of your "show truck" but that doesn't mean it couldn't be better. you definitely cant put a coating on over all that crap. try it?
Jason - Show me the science.
No such thing as wax build up. The wax is so thin it's virtually unmeasurable.
I've never stripped wax off anything Known and no one would ever know.
Waste of time.
Very good point about wax building up, it lays on the paint, stripping wax or sealant coatings is a waste of time.
I tho its for old wax
Ive heard just regular polish removes wax? also if you clay it removes some too
Right, any regular polish that has microabrasives will do a great job at removing previous products. Like polishes, there are less aggressive and more aggressive forms of clay and some of them can glide over the top without removing the wax or sealant.
Dish soap...
You used it very badly take a look at the original video. Then do your test again.
Recommended dilution ratio from CG is 1 oz to 5 gallons, that’s not going to touch waxes and sealants at that strength, nor at a mostly undiluted strength if they’re fresh.