Customized Model Bridge Abutments
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- Опубликовано: 29 июл 2019
- In this video I show you how I customized model bridge abutments from Chooch Enterprises to fit a Micro Engineering 80' deck girger bridge in N scale. I customized the height of the standoff and weathered the stone for my specific application.
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Хобби
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See how I built and weathered the bridge for this project here: ruclips.net/video/ry1QUO8OTZs/видео.html
I find that to get super glue to adhere to porous surfaces such as plaster or oily surfaces such as spruce, I smear both surfaces with super glue, let it dry then apply more glue. The dry first layer prevents the material from absorbing the glue applied for joining the two surfaces.
Those abutments came out looking great, all the layers of paint and washes worked well together
Thanks, Joe.
Great work Ron. The weathering is spot on 👌
Really nice work Ron. Enjoyed seeing you take something and modify it, much more relatable for those like myself starting out, than a full on scratch build.
Ron, good to see you back in action. I do love the Cooch abundments. They weather nicely.
Great job. I enjoyed thourghly this series. Hoping you'll do more as you continue building your beautiful layout.
God bless and take care
Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Great info, glad to see you returned
Thanks. Its good to be back.
Epoxy: the "I wasn't asking" adhesive. :) Really like the end result!
Thanks, John. Epoxy was the best go-to adhesive for this material.
Kudos Ron, one technique that many are afraid to try is making shadows by darkening the area beneath a stand of trees or other objects that naturally throw them since modelers often think lighting does the trick. Because lighting a layout is done usually with multiple sources most look as if it's high noon and it's rare to get that depth of field that shadows make just by dimming but it's a trade off for being flexible. Even static modeling stay away from shadowing for the same reason and I've only seen a Revell kit of the Lunar lander have a showdown line cast into the plate it sits on and almost nowhere else.
NICE looking bridge! We're likely moving soon. New house wish list: 1) Bigger studio space 2) Place for trains and slot cars 3) Garage big enough for workshop
Hey, Christopher. I'm waaaaay behind on comments as you can see. I'm wondering if that move has happened yet. I hope all of those wishes come true for you.
Welcome back Ron. Great video. Very easy to follow and the results look great especially combined with the bridge Papadan
Thanks.
The bridge and the abutments look great Ron !
Thanks.
Turned out great Ron!
Thanks, Steve. Appreciate it.
Excellent video Ron, those look amazing. Again, I learned a lot with weathering and such. Keep these videos coming, thanks for sharing
Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.
Nice work Ron, I like it
Thanks.
great explanation, will help me greatly with my layout.
I'm glad you found it helpful. What did you find most useful to you?
Nice bit of practical modelling there Ron. Reminds me I must get a new battery for my digi callipers. Looking forward to seeing the bridge in place on the layout.
Thanks, Kevin.
You've done it again Olie (Ron), another great video....thanks for sharing....Jack
Thanks.
Man Ron that looks great
Thanks.
I know India ink has been recommended forever, but my personal preference is black acrylic paint. It allows me to mix in other colors to arrive at a more customized shade. And black acrylic is useful for applications in addition to ageing.
Hi Ron, I have just found you’re channel and have subscribed etc. Great work on the abutments and very helpful hints for painting and weathering. Thanks for sharing and I will take a look at more of your videos shortly. Regards, Chris
Thanks for subscribing. I have more great model railroading videos coming up. Be sure to stay tuned and welcome aboard.
very..very nice. It sure helps to have the right tools for a job..
Thanks.
Thanks Ron the abutments turned out very nice.
Mike
Thanks, Mike. Always good to hear from you. Thanks for watching.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Thanks for what you do Ron, Mike
Very nice. Good job. 👌👋
Thanks.
[thank you for youre great video]👍
Great video... I'm starting out with my o guage layout from my childhood and have about 800 sections of o guage tubular to play with. Although im still trying to learn all the tricks of the trade my big concern is creating grade to add a second rail section to my layout. Anyone have and suggestions?
Curious to see the cat 🐈
After the rust powders, you didn’t fix them? I would have used a light coat of dulcote? Also, what’s your thought on genuine “ wet” rust, smidge of steel wool in a vinegar solution. I find it works the crevices amazingly. Thanks for the skookum vjeo.
What can I say but WOW 👍
Thanks.
How do you adjust for elevations needing longer abutments?
Would like to see a trackplan for your switching layout
That will come in due time. Thanks for your interest.
I think u did get job with that project likes how u did that and everything
Thanks.
Ron, how do you attach the bridge to the abutments? is it glued or does it hang free?
I will attach them with a tacky glue. This will hold them in place but can be removed later if needed.
The girder bridges in Iowa are generally ALL rust as not sure they were ever painted or coated. I think most have some form of graffiti that is missing on yours.🤔 How about "Class of 66"! I think we hit at least one near Creston, Iowa. 👍
Well, that would work for a more modern era, but this bridge will be on a switching layout set in 1955.
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Where is Ron at have not seen a new video in a month????
Hi Ron,
Love your channel, new subscriber here. I know this is off topic but I am getting back into modelrailroading and was at a recent train show and was unsure of what dcc was until I researched it but while I was at the show I bought a dc 4-8-4- northern and was having an issue.. I get power, the very first time it stuttered and now wont move, I get headlight and a little smoke from whatever residue was in their, my question is, is it worth it to put a new motor and upgrade it to dcc or is it not worth it.. I bought it for 20 dollars. It's in pretty good condition other than it wont go...
At this point I would say what have you got to lose? Re-motoring it would be a great learning experience, and if you are careful with the outside of the locomotive, worst case you end up with a nice display piece, which is what it sounds like you have right now.
Do you dilute you ink?
Yes. I use 1 teaspoon of ink in a pint of Isopropyl Alcohol.