Just replaced all 5 spark plugs and ignition coils for my 2012 Volvo S60 T5 thanks to this video. You just saved me a ton. Can’t thank you enough for this!
One of the quickest, most clear and most thorough explanations of any mechanical instruction video I've seen online. Definitely coming back and subscribing.
This was awesome!! So simple, and the upfront part of the video with tools needed really helped before I started ripping the cover off. Step by step, very simple and took 90 minutes, start to finish Thank you!
Thank you @fpc for this. I hope you guys keep making P3 videos. One note, the I5 2.5L were made through 2016. When I heard Volvo were going to stop making I5s I made sure I got one for that release year.
Followed your steps on my 2012 Volvo S60. I ordered my parts through FPC. There were a couple of differences but this video helped me get through it and my car is running like new now. Thanks and Much Appreciated!
What if you got oil in the spark plug well . Can you make a video on how to fix this issue . There’s no video on this issue on you tube for this car 2012 Volvo s60 t6.
I knocked this out over the weekend and besides my previous observation [no lube on the plug threads?] I'd have to add that more detail on finessing the coil plugs would be nice. I wasn't clear just how they separated and the obvious didn't seem to be working. Perhaps an up-close look on exactly what's supposed to be pressed, how/what releases would help. I broke 2 of the 5 clips. Still an informative video but remember for us weekend warriors... none of my other 10 vehicles have these clips so they and whatever required technique (trick) were new to me.
Good video... a sanity check prior to my embarking on this adventure... and it does look a little more involved than what I'd envisioned. I have to say, prior to installing new plugs I've always put a little grease/never cease on them, perhaps an old trick I learned on the racing circuit but whatever, it's always served me (and the threads/head) well. Just a thought.
I have a 2012 volvo s60 t5 are the components majorly different or does this video apply to the 2012, as well? im a noob to car repairs looking to try this!
Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Most spark plugs have a anti-corrosive plating on the threads.
Anti seize "can act" and "most spark plugs have a coating.." are two variables (can & most) I'll take a pass on. I've used anti seize for 50yrs on all my cars as I did when I crewed on a formula 2 team and never ever had a stuck plug or broke one. Sometimes I wonder whose making stuff up. Just last week an xfinity tech told me I had too many splitters [hence the fuzzy picture] and after he left I simply tightened a fitting he'd overlooked and got a great picture. And that's just one of 4 examples in the last 2 weeks whereby a tech just said something ... to say something?
I don’t know about a complete flush, but I did a drain and fill on my 16 S60 T5 and it’s relatively simple to do. You get about 2/3rds of the coolant in the system out doing that. If you keep up with it, then there is no need for a full on flush. But all you need to do is get a bottle of coolant (my Volvo dealership gave me a bottle for free, but I bet FCP has it) and if you get the genuine Volvo coolant it’s concentrated so you make a 50-50 mix of the coolant and DISTILLED water. Just a 1-1 ratio, mix it together to replace the old fluid, but make sure the water is distilled not tap or purified or spring. Lift the front of the car either using ramps or jack stands. Then if you go under the front bumper, and remove the plastic cover at the very front to reveal the bottom of the radiator, on the right side you will find a white valve called a petcock and small spout. Before you open the valve, remove the coolant reservoir cap, and grab a pan or container to drain the coolant into. Twist the petcock and the coolant should start pouring out. Be careful though as it is only plastic and could brake, but the Volvo ones can be a little tough to open may need a little initial force to crack. Make sure your turning it counter clockwise. After the coolant has all drained out, make sure the valve is completely closed. Go back to the reservoir and start filling it up with the new coolant mix. Once it has reached the MAX line, give one of the larger coolant hoses some squeezes to vent out air trapped in the system. You can find them leading in and out of the radiator, they would be black. This may be able to purge some of the trapped air. Add more coolant as needed as the air bleeds out. Now, with the reservoir cap still off, start the car and turn the heat all the way up and the fan on. Give the engine a couple of revs and watch the thermometer to see if there are any spikes, indicating trapped air. With the engine still running you could also give the coolant line a couple more squeezes to try and bleed any remaining air. You could also buy a nifty funnel kit that sits higher than the reservoir and makes bleeding the air much easier. Let it run for ten to fifteen minutes watching the coolant level and engine temp. After you think you got most of the air out, make sure the tank is filled to Max and put the cap back on. Drive around a few days and keep an eye on the coolant level. You can relive air by opening the reservoir cap, but be sure to never do that while the engine is hot. Let it cool, let any air out, and fill if needed. And you should be all set! Don’t forget the take the old coolant to a local recycling center, don’t let your pets get to it it’s highly toxic (it is antifreeze after all) and smells sweet to them. And clean up where needed.
I drive a 2011 S60 T6 and I think this video will still help me figure out what I need to do even though I have a 6-cylinder engine instead of the 5. I have a misfire in cylinder 6, I replaced all my spark plugs last year so it's probably the coil pack itself.
Late to the party here. 2012 t5 s60 with misfires on 1 & 2 with a running lean code @ idle. Has 106k with all original parts. Going to do this with hopes of a fix. Question: Would you also change the plug wires while you're at it? Or just the coil packs & plugs?
Hi Marc, plugs and coils are what we recommend replacing, not so much the harness. A good test would be to change the coils around and see if the misfire codes follow. That will help you narrow down the issue, as well as rule out any potential fuel issue.
Did you end up getting it fixed? My car is the same model as yours and it's misfiring on the 2nd and 4th cylinder. I'm hoping that all I have to do is get those ignition coils and spark plugs replaced. Thank you!
@@Misaamanenoir The car definitely needed new plugs. I just did the coil packs because I got a good deal on a kit. The problem ended up being the PCV Breather Box, rubber seal failed. It's something that needs to be changed around 100k miles anyway. Sounds like sucking air under the hood. $500 fix at the shop
Two parter, what’s the purpose of that dielectric stuff? And I’ve never done that but I’ve replaced all of these about once a year. Think it’s because I’ve never used the dielectric or something else with the car is broken? Thanks
It is necessary. It helps keep water out and makes the current transfer better. Every electrical connection benefits from the use. Also do this when changing your battery. Your car will thank you.
Great video. I followed your video exactly how you did yours. I had misfire 1,3,4,5 And replaced all of them But it’s still shaking. What do y’all think the issue could be? It’s a 2015 s60 t5 platinum With 170k miles
Coil Connector would have been the best bet. Likely a cracked clip. Sounds minor right? Nope, it will blow coils and blow others as well. Had to learn that the hard way with my first car. Dealership super glued it instead of replacing it and I found out 6 months later when I started blowing coils.
I’m looking to buy a a used 2020 Volvo S60 T5 with just a little over 3,000 miles on it. Although I know it’ll be under warranty, are there issues or problems that I should be aware of with these kinds of cars? I’m so happy that I found this channel since I like doing most of the maintenance myself if I can. It’ll be my first Volvo.
Great video. Any chance you will do another one for the 6 cylinder? (I imagine it's very similar, so maybe even a note about how it might be similar or different?)
Erik, the difference is one more of everything. Modular engine means using exactly the same parts but just addding or subtracting a cylinder to make 4-5-6. Procedure is exacty the same.
Absolute madness replacing all those coil packs at a "set" mileage. I highly doubt the service manual tells you to replace them at 50K miles. I have never seen that. Resistance check when you're changing the spark plugs and keep a spare CP in your trunk in case one goes. Throwing away perfectly good coil packs is like setting fire to your money. Pointless.
You sound like an old schooler (not a dig at all). In my case I'm almost at 110 with misfires on 1 & 2. I'm replacing all 5 and keeping 3-5 packs as backups just in case. It's my daughter's car and honestly I'd rather start fresh with this sort of thing (we just bought it 8mo ago) 🤷
One of this days, we going to replace the front right turn light bulb, we going to need to disambling the front end, them remove the engine, then the dashboard and seats, then the roof and finally we replace this little light bulb. God these Volvos are a world apart 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😲
Thanks for your helpful videos. May I ask for a favor, my Volvo s60 has black smoke at exhaust pipe. Like carbon is stopped. What’s causing that, is that spark plug need to be replaced? Thanks.
I was changing my spark plugs and the retainer bolt for the coils snapped in half when tightening, I can’t get the remaining shaft of the bolt that is stuck in the threads. Can I simply replace the engine cover?
Just replaced all 5 spark plugs and ignition coils for my 2012 Volvo S60 T5 thanks to this video. You just saved me a ton. Can’t thank you enough for this!
Can u do mine I have the exact same car! Same year. I’m in Cali lol
One of the quickest, most clear and most thorough explanations of any mechanical instruction video I've seen online. Definitely coming back and subscribing.
This was awesome!! So simple, and the upfront part of the video with tools needed really helped before I started ripping the cover off.
Step by step, very simple and took 90 minutes, start to finish
Thank you!
Thank you @fpc for this. I hope you guys keep making P3 videos. One note, the I5 2.5L were made through 2016. When I heard Volvo were going to stop making I5s I made sure I got one for that release year.
You're welcome, Rafael! More P3 content to come!
@@fcpeuro when? It’s Volvo season great time to drop.
Followed your steps on my 2012 Volvo S60. I ordered my parts through FPC. There were a couple of differences but this video helped me get through it and my car is running like new now. Thanks and Much Appreciated!
Great video. You guys make it look so easy. The turbo 5 cyl motor is a legend as well. Volvo should have kept it.
Sure.....
The I5 from Volvo was tried and true.
Thanks, NLDMesa06! No doubt the 5 cylinder is a legend and makes a great sound too!
Impressive attention to detail and crystal clear steps to do a professional job !
Thank you very much, Philip!
Thank you! It is surprisingly hard to find any videos that show how to do any maintenance to my 2015 V60.
Excellent instructions. Saved $1600 in parts and labor
🙂
Great video for the 5-cyl motors. Would love to see a similar video for the 3.0L 6-cyl T6 engines, please.
Thank you for making these videos!
Yet another quality video from the guys at fpc. Thank you!
You're very welcome, Martin!
Thanks for the video, and mentioning the necessary torques. Very helpful!
What if you got oil in the spark plug well . Can you make a video on how to fix this issue . There’s no video on this issue on you tube for this car 2012 Volvo s60 t6.
Does the parts work for 2017 S60 Inscription?
Excellent! Thank you!
best video ever
Questionable. But it does the job 😁
Great video, i will be ready next week , for DIY
I knocked this out over the weekend and besides my previous observation [no lube on the plug threads?] I'd have to add that more detail on finessing the coil plugs would be nice. I wasn't clear just how they separated and the obvious didn't seem to be working. Perhaps an up-close look on exactly what's supposed to be pressed, how/what releases would help. I broke 2 of the 5 clips. Still an informative video but remember for us weekend warriors... none of my other 10 vehicles have these clips so they and whatever required technique (trick) were new to me.
Good video... a sanity check prior to my embarking on this adventure... and it does look a little more involved than what I'd envisioned. I have to say, prior to installing new plugs I've always put a little grease/never cease on them, perhaps an old trick I learned on the racing circuit but whatever, it's always served me (and the threads/head) well. Just a thought.
I've always put a dab of oil on the threads, never grease though. Would be worried about them backing out if they were over-lubed? Just my opinion
Shop the parts used in this video: www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-ignition-coil-kit-bosch-30713417kt?
I have a 2012 volvo s60 t5 are the components majorly different or does this video apply to the 2012, as well? im a noob to car repairs looking to try this!
Why no anti seze on the plug threads?
Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Most spark plugs have a anti-corrosive plating on the threads.
Anti seize "can act" and "most spark plugs have a coating.." are two variables (can & most) I'll take a pass on. I've used anti seize for 50yrs on all my cars as I did when I crewed on a formula 2 team and never ever had a stuck plug or broke one. Sometimes I wonder whose making stuff up. Just last week an xfinity tech told me I had too many splitters [hence the fuzzy picture] and after he left I simply tightened a fitting he'd overlooked and got a great picture. And that's just one of 4 examples in the last 2 weeks whereby a tech just said something ... to say something?
Really need a video for coolant flush on P3.
I don’t know about a complete flush, but I did a drain and fill on my 16 S60 T5 and it’s relatively simple to do. You get about 2/3rds of the coolant in the system out doing that. If you keep up with it, then there is no need for a full on flush.
But all you need to do is get a bottle of coolant (my Volvo dealership gave me a bottle for free, but I bet FCP has it) and if you get the genuine Volvo coolant it’s concentrated so you make a 50-50 mix of the coolant and DISTILLED water. Just a 1-1 ratio, mix it together to replace the old fluid, but make sure the water is distilled not tap or purified or spring. Lift the front of the car either using ramps or jack stands. Then if you go under the front bumper, and remove the plastic cover at the very front to reveal the bottom of the radiator, on the right side you will find a white valve called a petcock and small spout. Before you open the valve, remove the coolant reservoir cap, and grab a pan or container to drain the coolant into. Twist the petcock and the coolant should start pouring out. Be careful though as it is only plastic and could brake, but the Volvo ones can be a little tough to open may need a little initial force to crack. Make sure your turning it counter clockwise. After the coolant has all drained out, make sure the valve is completely closed. Go back to the reservoir and start filling it up with the new coolant mix. Once it has reached the MAX line, give one of the larger coolant hoses some squeezes to vent out air trapped in the system. You can find them leading in and out of the radiator, they would be black. This may be able to purge some of the trapped air. Add more coolant as needed as the air bleeds out. Now, with the reservoir cap still off, start the car and turn the heat all the way up and the fan on. Give the engine a couple of revs and watch the thermometer to see if there are any spikes, indicating trapped air. With the engine still running you could also give the coolant line a couple more squeezes to try and bleed any remaining air. You could also buy a nifty funnel kit that sits higher than the reservoir and makes bleeding the air much easier. Let it run for ten to fifteen minutes watching the coolant level and engine temp. After you think you got most of the air out, make sure the tank is filled to Max and put the cap back on. Drive around a few days and keep an eye on the coolant level. You can relive air by opening the reservoir cap, but be sure to never do that while the engine is hot. Let it cool, let any air out, and fill if needed. And you should be all set! Don’t forget the take the old coolant to a local recycling center, don’t let your pets get to it it’s highly toxic (it is antifreeze after all) and smells sweet to them. And clean up where needed.
do denso make the spark plugs for volvo?
I'm not sure about the 5 cylinders but for the 6 they switched to denso in 2010
Can you show the serpentine belt replacement on this car?
I drive a 2011 S60 T6 and I think this video will still help me figure out what I need to do even though I have a 6-cylinder engine instead of the 5. I have a misfire in cylinder 6, I replaced all my spark plugs last year so it's probably the coil pack itself.
Late to the party here. 2012 t5 s60 with misfires on 1 & 2 with a running lean code @ idle. Has 106k with all original parts. Going to do this with hopes of a fix. Question: Would you also change the plug wires while you're at it? Or just the coil packs & plugs?
Hi Marc, plugs and coils are what we recommend replacing, not so much the harness. A good test would be to change the coils around and see if the misfire codes follow. That will help you narrow down the issue, as well as rule out any potential fuel issue.
Did you end up getting it fixed? My car is the same model as yours and it's misfiring on the 2nd and 4th cylinder. I'm hoping that all I have to do is get those ignition coils and spark plugs replaced. Thank you!
@@Misaamanenoir The car definitely needed new plugs. I just did the coil packs because I got a good deal on a kit. The problem ended up being the PCV Breather Box, rubber seal failed. It's something that needs to be changed around 100k miles anyway. Sounds like sucking air under the hood. $500 fix at the shop
@@marcmonge3704 Ouch, that's a 10 dollar Part and super easy to do yourself in maybe 30 minutes.
@@Misaamanenoir Check your Coil Connector clips or if they are completely inserted. That will blow coils.
Are pulstar spark plugs recommended for the 2017 VOLVO XC60 T6 with the supercharged and turbo charged 2.0 engine?
Two parter, what’s the purpose of that dielectric stuff?
And I’ve never done that but I’ve replaced all of these about once a year. Think it’s because I’ve never used the dielectric or something else with the car is broken? Thanks
It is necessary. It helps keep water out and makes the current transfer better. Every electrical connection benefits from the use. Also do this when changing your battery. Your car will thank you.
I have no clue what gap my Ruthenium HF plugs are for my 2017 VOLVO XC60 R design with the twin charged 2.0 engine.
About to replace mine gonna be a saver.
Great video. Is it advisable to disconnect the battery first for inexperienced DiYers?
Absolutely would not hurt!
Great video. I followed your video exactly how you did yours.
I had misfire 1,3,4,5
And replaced all of them
But it’s still shaking.
What do y’all think the issue could be?
It’s a 2015 s60 t5 platinum With 170k miles
What did it end up being?
@@98HXT never got it done
I just sold the car and made my life easier
Coil Connector would have been the best bet. Likely a cracked clip. Sounds minor right? Nope, it will blow coils and blow others as well. Had to learn that the hard way with my first car. Dealership super glued it instead of replacing it and I found out 6 months later when I started blowing coils.
I’m looking to buy a a used 2020 Volvo S60 T5 with just a little over 3,000 miles on it. Although I know it’ll be under warranty, are there issues or problems that I should be aware of with these kinds of cars? I’m so happy that I found this channel since I like doing most of the maintenance myself if I can. It’ll be my first Volvo.
Great video and you are a very handsome man
Glad you liked the video, Steven! Nate will be flattered when he sees this!
Great video. Any chance you will do another one for the 6 cylinder?
(I imagine it's very similar, so maybe even a note about how it might be similar or different?)
Erik, the difference is one more of everything. Modular engine means using exactly the same parts but just addding or subtracting a cylinder to make 4-5-6. Procedure is exacty the same.
Absolute madness replacing all those coil packs at a "set" mileage. I highly doubt the service manual tells you to replace them at 50K miles. I have never seen that.
Resistance check when you're changing the spark plugs and keep a spare CP in your trunk in case one goes. Throwing away perfectly good coil packs is like setting fire to your money. Pointless.
You sound like an old schooler (not a dig at all). In my case I'm almost at 110 with misfires on 1 & 2. I'm replacing all 5 and keeping 3-5 packs as backups just in case. It's my daughter's car and honestly I'd rather start fresh with this sort of thing (we just bought it 8mo ago) 🤷
Please, please make sure you put anti-seize on the spark plugs!
One of this days, we going to replace the front right turn light bulb, we going to need to disambling the front end, them remove the engine, then the dashboard and seats, then the roof and finally we replace this little light bulb. God these Volvos are a world apart 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😲
It’s gotta be one of the easiest and most accessible spark plug changes I’ve ever seen, what are you on
Thanks for your helpful videos. May I ask for a favor, my Volvo s60 has black smoke at exhaust pipe. Like carbon is stopped. What’s causing that, is that spark plug need to be replaced? Thanks.
I was changing my spark plugs and the retainer bolt for the coils snapped in half when tightening, I can’t get the remaining shaft of the bolt that is stuck in the threads. Can I simply replace the engine cover?
Have you tried to drill it out or a broken bolt removal kit?
@@TheColonel502 I tried both of those methods unsuccessfully, I ended up taking the car to a welder who welded a nut to the broken bolt and got it out