I feel the same way about my saabaru. Sometimes people ask about it, sometimes they know and I get a thumbs up. Never any problem finding parts even though there's only a few thousand like it.
I have a 2005 bad turbo I love the car hey problem is I can't find anybody to work on it without messing something up so I started doing my own work in the driveway have a good day o
You don't know how useful your videos are. It's nice to know that we (subaru owners) can come to your channel and get the help we need. Thanks and keep them coming...
ex mechanic here. Some of the more difficult ones, 2000 Toyota Sienna with a 3 liter. Have to remove the hood, to remove the cowling, in order to pull the intake manifold off, to get to the rear spark plugs. 1993 Cadillac Sedan Deville with the 4.9 liter V8. Rear plugs can only be accessed from underneath.
I had success changing my spark plugs and am glad to have viewed your video first for a number of tips. My plan includes the following for my 2017 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5L Boxer engine. I did not duplicate the tips as mentioned in the video. Watch the video! 1. Remove items to gain access. (air box, battery, battery holder frame, left front wheel to access battery holder frame bottom bolt). 2. Remove coil packs. 3. Tools used on plugs - 9/16" deep socket, 3" short wobble extension, 3/8 drive ratchet, 5/16" ID fuel line cut to 3" and 4-1/2" lengths, 3/8 drive inch lb torque wrench. 4. The fuel line pieces fit tightly over the porcelain of the plug and allow finger grip to turn the plug out and in as needed. Just feel for proper thread engagement and use finger tightening as much as possible, then resort to tool work. 5. Apply a thin and conservative amount of anti-seize on new plug threads staying away from the first two or three threads (near firing end). My personal preference anyway. 6. Apply a small amount of dielectric grease with a Q-tip cotton swab on the boot ID to slip over the porcelain easier. Notice that the boot plug tip contact is a spring, not a clip. 7. Following Autolite XP5683 with seal washer instructions, tighten 1/4 - 1/2 turn past seat contact (13 foot lbs or 156 inch lbs.) 8. Apply conservative amounts of anti-seize to all other threaded fasteners during assembly. I waited to change the original plugs after 100,000 miles. I had begun to experience some hesitancy at acceleration from a stop. Now the gas mileage has increased 2 mpg on average. Great video! Thank you MrSubaru!
This is like the ultimate guide I wish I had like 6 months ago lol. Thanks for mentioning the tools, it was one of the biggest headaches when I tried to change mine on my ‘14 legacy 👍
Thanks again, brother. I remember doing plugs every 3000 to 4000 miles in my vast number of air cooled VW's in the past and this shouldn't be any issue with my EJ25s on my two Outbacks. Well done, well explained.
@@bryanlatimer-davies1222 Yep. I learned how to helicoil at a young age. Another was the soft crankcases on the late '68 to '71 Beetles where the head studs would pull right out on their own at 30k to 40k miles.
Really good video, very helpful as always. Thanks for taking the time and effort to educate. I have a 2006 WRX and it takes less than an hour to change the plugs. First time I did it I couldn't believe how fast and easy it actually was. Minimal tools needed to remove the battery, air box, and secondary air injection pump.
I personally own a 2005 Subaru outback wagon 2.5l, and have never worked on a Subaru before. I thought it would be a nightmare, even though I used to build race engines in the past, and have been working on various vehicles for over 35years, however I found it very simple, and easy to change the spark plugs in this vehicle. In contrast, my 2015 Ram Laremy 5.7Hemi is a complete nightmare!
My son and I used to race 77 Z28 with a 383 stroker motor we used to just take the whole nose clip off and the motor is right there to work on you guys would love that you sit on the tire you even got a chair while you working on your motor have a great day
Changed my spark plugs on my 2016 Crosstrek. Agreed, the tools make a difference. I found a "thin head" ratchet with a varied selection of 3/8 extensions help. I had to put smaller extensions together to get the length I wanted. After the job, I ordered some "unique" lengths like 5" to keep from having to "build" any. I also like using a piece of old hose like vacuum line to put on the spark plug and start treading it which helps prevent cross threading. The worse plug for me was the one closest to the firewall (back) on the left (driver's) side.
I've been going through my new to us 2010 Forester with the EJ25 sohc. Your videos have been a massive help. Bought the timing belt kit from your Amazon link as well as the pulley holder. Good kit, and that job went easier than I thought it was going to. Engine sounds and feels smoother as well as our fuel economy went up a bit. I'm thinking of getting another one of these with a blown motor. It's cheap to get a nice one that way, and I can get a newer sohc motor for under $2k. Cool little car so far, and you're making it an even more enjoyable thing to own with all this info. Thanks.
I have changed the plugs on my '09 OBXT twice. Once going above and the next was under. For me it was far easier to go under the car than above. I have a very thin 1/4" ratchet that works very well to get into the tight spaces.
Just did this job on my EJ255 Tuesday, but went from underneath for less removals, used a 19mm deep socket on my spark plug socket mostly, not my worst spark plug job, Hemi Durango was more agonizing buried under the windshield and brake booster
I honestly only had problem removing the rear driver side spark plug on my '12 Forester. What I ended up doing was putting a flex socket extension onto the spark plug socket. Then a 8 inch extension onto the ratchet. That finally gave me angle to actually be able to turn the spark plug and get it out.
The most annoying spark plugs for me were on a 63 40 HP Beetle. All four had been put in by a gorilla and were stripped. I had to pull the engine and install thread inserts on all four of them. Pulling the engine on a Beetle is about as much trouble as removing an intake manifold on some modern cars...
An aluminum has over turkey is the worst thing you could ever do you don't have to lay on a spark plug to tighten it up check your manufacturer's torque specs just if you don't have a good feel for what's right and what's wrong have a good day
This guy is seriously a guru. Thank you for this. Man... how about those back plugs on the 3.6R. Just did that job 🤕. The driver side one was the biggest pain. Struggled to get the coil out of that tight space. Learned my lesson and got me two gear wrench 90 tooth 1/4" body with 3/8" gut ratchets. I'm armed for the next fight. One thing I found odd, is that even though everything on these cars are metric, the 5/8" spark plug socket fits a tiny bit more snug than the 16mm one on the OEM plugs for this engine. Go figure.
I remove the motor mount bolt from one side and jack the motor up on an angle. That angle makes it easier to access the spark plugs. When done with one bank, I replace the bolt. Then repeat on the other side.
I ordered my Astro ratchet about 3 weeks ago. I called the company I ordered it from and it will be another 3 weeks due to back order. But I will be patient since I respect your recommendations unconditionally
Just did this on my 2020 Crosstrek PHEV, 80k service. It was the most difficult thing I’ve personally done on a car, additional cooling pipes for the inverter made access difficult on the right hand side but when it came down to it removing the rearmost ignition coils were difficult, I didn’t know how much they can bend when needed. Your video and the Koken spark plug socket you recommended went a long way in giving me the confidence to do this. Knocked out the front and read diffs this weekend also. This vehicle hasn’t been to a shop besides tires and it’s been fun to maintain.
21:46 *Flashbacks Intensify* They had no problem coming out, they would just shoot straight into the hood whenever they felt like it, taking the coil with it. We kept rethreading the holes each time one blew out until one of the two rear banks blew out. To much of a pain at that point. I never would complain about my EJ253 in my life 😂😂😂
Do you mean "on-camera/dialogue presence"? If so, I agree. If not, I have no idea what you mean. But I don't think he owns his material. I think he leases his material with an option to buy (six months same as cash).
This is a very nice guide especially considering the replacement is 30k miles. I was under the assumption of 60k... lol electrode broke off. Lessons were learned. I'm a tech but great for diy.
Just ordered the 3726k and a 14mm spark plug socket from Koken USA. 20% off Father's Day sale! Got them both for around $128, free shipping and no tax!!!
Thank you for making these videos! They are extremely helpful since I own a 14 Forest and 02 Impreza WRX. I just purchased my first Koken Tools based on your recommendations. I look forward to using these in the future on not only my Subaru's, but a few of my friends Subaru's as well.
I’ve never understood people that struggle with these, as you explained it’s obvious that they just aren’t removing the air box and battery/washer bottle. Pretty much any FWD V6 needs the intake manifold removed to do the rear bank and some of the mid 90’s Mazdas are a full day job to get the manifold off
I had a first gen V6 Mazda 6. The rear bank was a nightmare even with the intake manifold removed. You still had to loosen the engine mounts and pry the engine forward to access the plugs. That alone put me off and fwd V engines.
Watched the videos and did mines few months ago. That's when I found out my tube seals were leaking. Only problem I had was the plug wires wanting to slide off the coil. If this happens to you put a pick inside the boot when you slip them on to let air escape. Been going strong since then Thank you for our patience and the awesome videos!
Great video man. My old boss would always add a fee for boxer or transverse mounted (w/ 6+ cylinders) engines. There were three other shops within spitting distance of his old shop and we were the only ones who would do them. Also I always did the rotary ones, they freaked him out because he mixed up the leading and trailing plugs once lol. Thanks again for the videos!
My FRS was a little difficult getting to but I got them in and out in 45 minutes. I watched a rundown and it wasn’t that bad once I knew what I was getting into.
My go to for a ej dohc is a snap on S9710KC with a 2" extension and a FHLFD80AG ratchet. Depending on the chassis you can use the ratchet as a nut driver instead of going back and forth or using your fingers to unscrew the spark plug. Only time I do the plugs on the under side is when the car is highly modified and it's actually easier/less time than disconnecting intercooler pipes, fuel lines, air boxes, catch cans, and braces. Worst spark plugs i've done is on race sbc and bbc engines with large tube headers wrapped around them where you have to give the old reach around with a snap on S9724RHS and a 5/8 ratcheting flex wrench then struggle to get the new plug started because the spark plug hole is angled.
did the valve cover gaskets and spark plugs on my 2.5i 15 forester after wtching this and your guide on valve cover gaskets. The video really helped. i bought a 14mm sparkplug sockect and the astro long 1/4 head 3/8 drive ratchet. the only thing i wish i would have had was a snap on ratchet instead, ive been spoiled by those and the light back drag. if id have never used a snap on ratchet before the astro would have been alright in my hands
Your videos always helpful! Even without Ko-ken low profile ratchet (can't be delivered to Russia for normal price) it's possible to replace spark plugs.
Ugh.. That #4 spark plug.. ha ha I hate doing this job on my '05 Outback XT. A much needed/helpful video on these cars. This is the perfect example of "using the right tool will make the job easier". The type of job where just 3-5mm clearance can make a big difference. Thanks Mr. Subaru for this great video.
Fascinating, yeah I've used the engine lift method but mostly because I was doing the cam cover seals on my 06 LGT. Other times small hands helps and I use a 1/4 d ratchet and wobble extenstion, biggest problem on the LGT is getting the ignition coils out of the way without scratching up the frame rails. Subarus aren't really hard gm fwd v6s were the worst ;)
This is my fuel-hose, there are many like it but this one is mine. It is really silly, but best success I had with sparkplug-operation was with a a fuel hose. I'm not joking. It's flexible, it gives just enough grip to the sparkplug, yet it minimizes the risk of ruining the threads. Ofcourse, once it's threaded in snugly, you can torque it to spec easily after that.
Just did a 2016 Outback. Entirely from underneath. Didn’t need to remove the battery or air box. (Tho I did remove the two lower battery mount bolts from underneath to buy me a precious few millimeters needed for the driver-side rear plug, which is arguably the hardest one). Just had to drop the undertray. It seemed much easier to do it lying on my back than straining my back leaning over the top. 2.5 hours but went off without a hitch.
I've had fantastic luck replacing the plugs in my '16 WRX & '15 BRZ with the "Motion Pro 08-0512 14mm Spark Plug Socket" I got off Amazon. It's natively 1/4 drive and is the exact right length to place even a normal (non-thin) socket wrench on the end. What's more, the body is also hex so you can easily turn it with an open-ended wrench/ratcheting one if so desired.
I’ve got pretty basic tools and have always been able to access the plugs with a series of extensions. I’ve done 2 or3 changes in my 05 OTB EJ257 I believe🤷🏾♂️. I have a question for you, mr S. what about gapping; do you find it 100% necessary to set the gaps properly? I’ve always done it, just wondering if I’m wasting my time.
So yup... My advice is 3 ibuprofen to start.. helps with all the wild positions you need to put your hands and arms in, also helps with all the nicks and cuts on those wire ties and sheet metal. All that aside, about 4 hrs start to done and running. 2018 Crosstrek, m/t. And yes, rear plug drivers side was last and a bear. Watching this video did prep me for what to expect.. thanks.
yup you are right , i have had to replace v6 engine plugs and some of them are a nightmare haha and as for subaru they really are not to bad to replace and put either Iridium or Platinum plugs in my EJ206 and Ej208 twin turbo which are normally good for 100,000 km so not changing them all that often either
Many folks who diy don’t realize that you can customize socket wrenches. This is doable even with some of the more cost forgiving brands or, if you’re like me, you keep your eyes out for those “unicorn” wrenches. You might only use them for one particular job, but each time you do it you smile instead of swear.
I’ve found that most fwd v6 vehicles the intake needs removed to replace spark plugs, as you said Fords, Toyotas, Hondas, Usually it’s the support brackets in on the back of the manifold are a pain to get off. Pro master vans are one of few that I’ve found you can get away without pulling the intake manifold. Dodge recommends pulling the intake but not necessary, it’s a bit tighter of a squeeze, but with the right combination of extensions it’s possible and still quicker than pulling the manifold. I would still rather replace Subaru spark plugs than most fwd v6 configurations.
I just did the plugs on my Crosstrek hybrid. The driver’s side is pretty easy but there is a thick wiring harness from the extra battery on the passenger side that makes it even more fun.
You’re very knowledgeable on these cars! I never work on Subaru but did oil change on 2017 Subaru Forester 2.5 premium and that about it. A lot of experience in gmc/mopars/Nissan/some Hyundai/ford. But I would like to work on Subaru cars. I’ll add tools to my list. Very helpful video!
Lmao. I Wish I would have seen this excellent vid BEFORE I did mine! 2015 outback 2.5. The wrench size & thickness is very important! I ended up using multiple 1/4" to 3/8" adapters to make my own shorter extension as I only had 3"!
Some in Instagram commented about how difficult a spark plug change in a Subaru, then I searched for it and landed straight here…damnnnn this thing is extremely difficult😅
I attempted to remove the plugs on my 2017 Outback at 60K (retired VW tech). Removing the battery did not give me appreciable access to the left bank of the engine. I have the Snap On 1/4" flex head ratchet converted to 3/8" drive (very useful for doing plugs on the old air-cooled VWs). The battery tray is ridiculously hard to remove, and even though my hands aren't particularly large I had to give it up and take it to the dealer.
I used to work at Ford and those 5.4 3 valve engines can be a real pain if you don't know how to tackle it. Basically you get it up to temp and use a battery powered 3/8 drive impact on them. They will usually come out just fine but if they break, your day just got ruined. I drive an sti and I'm due for new plugs and I've been a little apprehensive about doing it. I've never changed plugs on a Subaru but I've seen a lot of videos so I'm pretty sure I can get it done.
MrSubaru, I just watched this very thorough video and was impressed. But unless I missed something I didn't see my 20 outback 2.4 Turbo covered. Do you have one on how to replace the plugs in that vehicle. Thank you
Do they use iridium plugs? What is the recommendation for replacement period? What gap for plug is correct? What triggers the coil to fire at correct piston position ?
I own a 2018 Impreza(base sedan). I just hit 59,000 miles the other day and am the typical routine maintenance DIY guy: Oil changes, brake pads, filters, but have never replaced spark plugs. My car, up to this point, runs fine, sounds fine, starts with no problem and has decent fuel economy still.....should I change them "just because" it's the next recommended item from my dealer?
You're not understating about those rear spark plugs for the 3.6r. 95% of my time to do it, including getting battery and air intake out of the way, was spent on those two. If any one has short stubby fingers like me then you will be swearing while doing those two. I found that it was easier for me to start the spark plug by hand and once I was positive I was not cross threaded, then put the plug socket on to tighten it down. I also removed the rubber boot in the socket for those two for fear of not being able to get enough leverage to pull the socket off due to the tight finger space. All I had was the thicker ratchets but I will definitely get a thinner one along with a better socket before doing this again. The other 4 were fairly easy. Thanks for showing some of the ratchet and socket options out there to do this.
Mr Subaru I have 19 Forester and the spark plug replacement work is quite challenging. I have replaced the passenger side and driverside front one. I believe it require disconnecting the connector from the coil. Do you happen to have the how-to video on this model?
My JDM Subaru legacy 2.0R has 200,000km on it, but it's started to consume fuel like a G wagon. I had the maf cleaned, new air filter no check engine lights... what could be the matter and what are its spark plug type and gap...
About to pick up my first subaru ever today! a 2023 Subaru Forester Wilderness :) How big of an actual issue is the fact that they only have direct injection and build up carbon? what's the best way to remediate that? Thanks for any insight!
I’m an advanced DIY (not professional technician )and not all that familiar with Subarus. I heard this job was a nightmare and avoided it for 6 months. Did the procedure on a 2012 Forrester .As it turned out it was actually 45 minutes of easy work. The local dealer here wanted 349.95 and 27.95 per plug, just insane. I purchased the same NGK plugs from Rock Auto for 13.98 each.
I have a 2019 Impreza 5 door with the 2.0. I’m about to change the spark plugs, what size socket do I need? Is it 14mm? Should I buy a swivel socket? Thanks.
H6 are a but of a pain, I was actually going to mention that ford motor 😂 what a joke. The 5.7 hemi can be fun 16 but pugs most stuck right under the cab. Great video
I always lift the engine on my legacy ‘07 2.0R Only 6 bolts, 4 at the transmission en 2 for the engine, after that a jack with some kind of rubber to raise it. Spark plug replacement is a walk in the park after that
I just finished changing the plugs on my 2016 2.5i Premium Legacy. I installed NGK Ruthenium HX LKAR7AHX-S plugs which are supposed to have 2X the life of Iridium so I'm really hoping I can wait another 120K miles until I do this job again. One pain was removing the 2 side bolts holding the battery tray. Luckily I had a 9/16" ratcheting box end wrench which worked on the 14mm heads. I don't know how even with a skinny ratchet there would be enough room for a socket. It seems ridiculous they need 6 bolts to mount it (4 on top and 2 on side) and hope that my reinstalling only 5 bolts (had trouble getting my hand in the tight space and threading the bottom position on the side and gave up) isn't a problem. The biggest unexpected surprise was the coil pack boot came off the body and remained stuck to the front driver side spark plug. It was not easy to remove taking a couple of hours and in the process the boot ripped in multiple pieces and was destroyed. Ultimately I had a fine hook and pick set from Harbor Freight where I was able to get it past the end of the boot and then hook it to pull it off. Luckily from O'reilly you can buy the boot only and my local store even had it in stock! So for less than $6 I was able to fix this rather than paying a minimum of $90+ for an off brand coil pack or ordering one online for $70 and waiting a couple of days with the car undriveable. Knowing what I know now, and seeing that RockAuto also sells the boots for less than 1/2 the price of O'reilly, I will probably order a couple (maybe all 4) with the spark plugs if I ever have to change them again. I had bought a Korr 14mm swivel magnetic spark plug socket on Amazon, which worked well making it easy to removed and install the plugs. The other handy tool was a magnetic retriever to pick up tools / bolts which fell down and sat on top of the plastic shroud running underneath the front of the car. Unfortunately I wasn't able to find my 10mm socket which I dropped on the passenger side. While it wasn't smooth, I like that I saved a lot of money and the car is running well and idling more smoothly.
Chevrolet S10 and GMC S15 trucks including the S10 Blazers and GMC Jimmy with the 4.3,through the wheel well.Worst one is the middle plug on the driver's side,steering shaft is in the way.Either unbolt the steering shaft or the steering box prying the steering box up getting the plug in and out
I just replaced the spark plugs on 2015 Subaru Legacy. Tools needed were: 3/8 inch socket ratchet 10MM wrench for battery hold-down bolts 14MM socket with 10 inch extension for battery plate (6 bolts in total, 2 on the inside between engine and wheel well that were the hardest to remove and put back due to lack of clearance). I spent more time removing and putting back these 2 inner bolts than replacing the 4 spark plugs. Why did Subaru put 6 bolts to secure the battery box (steel bracket underneath the plastic battery tray). I used a 1/2 inch drive ratchet (18 inch) and socket as they were torqued to tight. 10MM wrench for spark plug coil bolts 9/16 spark plug socket and 2 inch extension, remove the spark plugs. The driver side back spark plug had a little less clearance so used a 3/8 flex extension to loosen the plug and remove it. Replacement was the reverse. A swivel head extension would work as well.
Wow! Thank you very much for this video. I have a 2017 Forester XT that will be needing the spark plugs replaced soon. I will definitely will be purchasing the necessary tools. Question - Can you recommend a good\inexpensive torque wrench for the spark plugs? Godspeed! 😁😀
Just want to see if you get an answer... Just ordered a 1/4in and a 3/8in Gearwrench electronic torque wrench for my EJ253 rebuild, but you could probably get away with something cheaper for the spark plugs. We all know how much Mr. Subaru loves HF Pittsburgh 😂😂😂
Asking for trouble to not use OE plugs in an untuned/unmodified engine. Use the OE plugs. They aren't something that's changed so often for it to be a financial hit.
I would also buy them from a reputable source to avoid fakes. Not worth it to save a few dollars if they don't perform well. I'm hearing lots of horror stories about counterfeit parts of all types, including plugs.
Mr Subaru I get more good ideas from your videos. How can I get a MATCO AFR128LFR ratchet converted to 3/8" drive? What additional pieces besides the ratchet do I need to order in order to do the conversion? Thank you
@@spiritpower7161 I don't mind getting dirty. I think the standard plugs don't last as long as the higher end ones, and I won't know what I have in mine until I pull.....one...not all four. 🤓 Thanks for the idea, I'm much more willing to pull the ONE and confirm the condition, instead of trying ot great 1.5 hrs of free time to swap them all.
I have 2 vehicles with horrible spark plug procedures... Great! Luckily i probably won't see the mile recommendation and don't bother replacing anything unless it needs it. Preventative maintenance (of parts, not fluids) feel like they more often than not cause a problem instead of prevent one!!
I have a pretty good method and set of tools for getting the spark plugs out of my subarus but I'm glad i watched anyway since i ended up ordering those koken z series sockets, definitely a better setup then i have been using. still would rather do a set of plugs in any of my subarus before doing the plugs on my 98 chevy astro again, i ended up purchasing a magnetic spark plug socket with a built in swivel extension since the rear plugs on the 4.3l in the chevy astro are a pita to get to without that tool.
Great info, thank you! Can you please comment or do a vid on spark plug replacement interval? Lots of debate on forums about if every 60K is really needed and my local Subie mechanic (heading is own shop for 35+ years) said I could likely go another 30K over the recommended interval. While another trusted mechanic I've used for over 25 years, said it could risk coil damage and advised sticking with every 60K.
This video should be included with the purchase of any Subaru ….. thank you Mr. Subaru
I really like my STI. It's a well-made car, and it has just the right amount of weirdness to give that cool-factor most cars don't have.
That’s why I like my legacy 3.6 R, it’s the crown Victoria of Subarus!
I feel the same way about my saabaru. Sometimes people ask about it, sometimes they know and I get a thumbs up.
Never any problem finding parts even though there's only a few thousand like it.
I have a 2005 bad turbo I love the car hey problem is I can't find anybody to work on it without messing something up so I started doing my own work in the driveway have a good day o
Love my 2006 sti as well. It's stock and reliability to change my sparks plugs.
Totally agree, got a 20 STI. How many miles till you change your spark plugs?
You don't know how useful your videos are. It's nice to know that we (subaru owners) can come to your channel and get the help we need. Thanks and keep them coming...
ex mechanic here. Some of the more difficult ones, 2000 Toyota Sienna with a 3 liter. Have to remove the hood, to remove the cowling, in order to pull the intake manifold off, to get to the rear spark plugs. 1993 Cadillac Sedan Deville with the 4.9 liter V8. Rear plugs can only be accessed from underneath.
I had success changing my spark plugs and am glad to have viewed your video first for a number of tips. My plan includes the following for my 2017 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5L Boxer engine. I did not duplicate the tips as mentioned in the video. Watch the video!
1. Remove items to gain access. (air box, battery, battery holder frame, left front wheel to access battery holder frame bottom bolt).
2. Remove coil packs.
3. Tools used on plugs - 9/16" deep socket, 3" short wobble extension, 3/8 drive ratchet, 5/16" ID fuel line cut to 3" and 4-1/2" lengths, 3/8 drive inch lb torque wrench.
4. The fuel line pieces fit tightly over the porcelain of the plug and allow finger grip to turn the plug out and in as needed. Just feel for proper thread engagement and use finger tightening as much as possible, then resort to tool work.
5. Apply a thin and conservative amount of anti-seize on new plug threads staying away from the first two or three threads (near firing end). My personal preference anyway.
6. Apply a small amount of dielectric grease with a Q-tip cotton swab on the boot ID to slip over the porcelain easier. Notice that the boot plug tip contact is a spring, not a clip.
7. Following Autolite XP5683 with seal washer instructions, tighten 1/4 - 1/2 turn past seat contact (13 foot lbs or 156 inch lbs.)
8. Apply conservative amounts of anti-seize to all other threaded fasteners during assembly.
I waited to change the original plugs after 100,000 miles. I had begun to experience some hesitancy at acceleration from a stop. Now the gas mileage has increased 2 mpg on average.
Great video! Thank you MrSubaru!
This is like the ultimate guide I wish I had like 6 months ago lol. Thanks for mentioning the tools, it was one of the biggest headaches when I tried to change mine on my ‘14 legacy 👍
Thanks again, brother. I remember doing plugs every 3000 to 4000 miles in my vast number of air cooled VW's in the past and this shouldn't be any issue with my EJ25s on my two Outbacks. Well done, well explained.
Always a little tense changing the plugs the first time on a new "to me" bug or bus are they stripped or not ?
@@bryanlatimer-davies1222 Yep. I learned how to helicoil at a young age. Another was the soft crankcases on the late '68 to '71 Beetles where the head studs would pull right out on their own at 30k to 40k miles.
Really good video, very helpful as always. Thanks for taking the time and effort to educate.
I have a 2006 WRX and it takes less than an hour to change the plugs. First time I did it I couldn't believe how fast and easy it actually was. Minimal tools needed to remove the battery, air box, and secondary air injection pump.
I personally own a 2005 Subaru outback wagon 2.5l, and have never worked on a Subaru before. I thought it would be a nightmare, even though I used to build race engines in the past, and have been working on various vehicles for over 35years, however I found it very simple, and easy to change the spark plugs in this vehicle. In contrast, my 2015 Ram Laremy 5.7Hemi is a complete nightmare!
Same, i have a 2010 n removed minimal stuff n have minimal tools n found it to be very easy to do
My son and I used to race 77 Z28 with a 383 stroker motor we used to just take the whole nose clip off and the motor is right there to work on you guys would love that you sit on the tire you even got a chair while you working on your motor have a great day
I'm a technician from the Caribbean, this vehicle Is so easy
Changed my spark plugs on my 2016 Crosstrek. Agreed, the tools make a difference. I found a "thin head" ratchet with a varied selection of 3/8 extensions help. I had to put smaller extensions together to get the length I wanted. After the job, I ordered some "unique" lengths like 5" to keep from having to "build" any. I also like using a piece of old hose like vacuum line to put on the spark plug and start treading it which helps prevent cross threading. The worse plug for me was the one closest to the firewall (back) on the left (driver's) side.
Yes so it was a guess work..150 miles ago and now it is time to replace
I've been going through my new to us 2010 Forester with the EJ25 sohc. Your videos have been a massive help. Bought the timing belt kit from your Amazon link as well as the pulley holder. Good kit, and that job went easier than I thought it was going to. Engine sounds and feels smoother as well as our fuel economy went up a bit.
I'm thinking of getting another one of these with a blown motor. It's cheap to get a nice one that way, and I can get a newer sohc motor for under $2k.
Cool little car so far, and you're making it an even more enjoyable thing to own with all this info. Thanks.
1:27 some of us are used to only having a few inches to work with
😂😂😂
I have changed the plugs on my '09 OBXT twice. Once going above and the next was under. For me it was far easier to go under the car than above. I have a very thin 1/4" ratchet that works very well to get into the tight spaces.
What brand ratchet
@@fredharvey2720 I don't know to be honest. I inherited it from my Dad, along with a bunch of other tools, and there is no name brand on it.
Thanks for the awesome description on how to take care of spark plug service on Subarus. I've had it easy so far with the H4 variety.
Just did this job on my EJ255 Tuesday, but went from underneath for less removals, used a 19mm deep socket on my spark plug socket mostly, not my worst spark plug job, Hemi Durango was more agonizing buried under the windshield and brake booster
I honestly only had problem removing the rear driver side spark plug on my '12 Forester. What I ended up doing was putting a flex socket extension onto the spark plug socket. Then a 8 inch extension onto the ratchet. That finally gave me angle to actually be able to turn the spark plug and get it out.
The most annoying spark plugs for me were on a 63 40 HP Beetle. All four had been put in by a gorilla and were stripped. I had to pull the engine and install thread inserts on all four of them. Pulling the engine on a Beetle is about as much trouble as removing an intake manifold on some modern cars...
Four large bolts.
All i read was the first sentence and i was dying bravo. Lmao
An aluminum has over turkey is the worst thing you could ever do you don't have to lay on a spark plug to tighten it up check your manufacturer's torque specs just if you don't have a good feel for what's right and what's wrong have a good day
This guy is seriously a guru. Thank you for this.
Man... how about those back plugs on the 3.6R. Just did that job 🤕. The driver side one was the biggest pain. Struggled to get the coil out of that tight space. Learned my lesson and got me two gear wrench 90 tooth 1/4" body with 3/8" gut ratchets. I'm armed for the next fight.
One thing I found odd, is that even though everything on these cars are metric, the 5/8" spark plug socket fits a tiny bit more snug than the 16mm one on the OEM plugs for this engine. Go figure.
5/8 is .625 16 mm is a little under .640 the difference the plugs are 5/8 have a good
I remove the motor mount bolt from one side and jack the motor up on an angle. That angle makes it easier to access the spark plugs. When done with one bank, I replace the bolt. Then repeat on the other side.
Wow. Good work. This was informative and straight the point and very clear. Clearly Mr. Subaru is also Mr. Organized and well planned out. Thank you.
I ordered my Astro ratchet about 3 weeks ago. I called the company I ordered it from and it will be another 3 weeks due to back order. But I will be patient since I respect your recommendations unconditionally
Your accent is the only one I understand and can follow brother.....country as heck and I'm here for it.
Thanks!
Just did this on my 2020 Crosstrek PHEV, 80k service. It was the most difficult thing I’ve personally done on a car, additional cooling pipes for the inverter made access difficult on the right hand side but when it came down to it removing the rearmost ignition coils were difficult, I didn’t know how much they can bend when needed. Your video and the Koken spark plug socket you recommended went a long way in giving me the confidence to do this. Knocked out the front and read diffs this weekend also. This vehicle hasn’t been to a shop besides tires and it’s been fun to maintain.
21:46 *Flashbacks Intensify*
They had no problem coming out, they would just shoot straight into the hood whenever they felt like it, taking the coil with it. We kept rethreading the holes each time one blew out until one of the two rear banks blew out. To much of a pain at that point. I never would complain about my EJ253 in my life 😂😂😂
This happened to my sub 04 wagon and it killed the car. Mechanic wouldn't touch it.
Love the fact he references so much awesome japanese tools
Great on camera/dialog presents. You definitely own your material. Huge effort, thank you!
Do you mean "on-camera/dialogue presence"? If so, I agree. If not, I have no idea what you mean. But I don't think he owns his material. I think he leases his material with an option to buy (six months same as cash).
This is a very nice guide especially considering the replacement is 30k miles. I was under the assumption of 60k... lol electrode broke off. Lessons were learned. I'm a tech but great for diy.
To be fair that all depends on the plugs and if your 5 and fitted a mahoosive air filter to make it sound like a honda 🙈
Just ordered the 3726k and a 14mm spark plug socket from Koken USA. 20% off Father's Day sale! Got them both for around $128, free shipping and no tax!!!
Thank you for making these videos! They are extremely helpful since I own a 14 Forest and 02 Impreza WRX. I just purchased my first Koken Tools based on your recommendations. I look forward to using these in the future on not only my Subaru's, but a few of my friends Subaru's as well.
The info is super helpful and I will add these to the list of things i need to get for my car, I am new to the subaru squad! thanks!
I’ve never understood people that struggle with these, as you explained it’s obvious that they just aren’t removing the air box and battery/washer bottle. Pretty much any FWD V6 needs the intake manifold removed to do the rear bank and some of the mid 90’s Mazdas are a full day job to get the manifold off
I had a first gen V6 Mazda 6. The rear bank was a nightmare even with the intake manifold removed. You still had to loosen the engine mounts and pry the engine forward to access the plugs. That alone put me off and fwd V engines.
Watched the videos and did mines few months ago. That's when I found out my tube seals were leaking.
Only problem I had was the plug wires wanting to slide off the coil. If this happens to you put a pick inside the boot when you slip them on to let air escape. Been going strong since then
Thank you for our patience and the awesome videos!
Great video man. My old boss would always add a fee for boxer or transverse mounted (w/ 6+ cylinders) engines. There were three other shops within spitting distance of his old shop and we were the only ones who would do them. Also I always did the rotary ones, they freaked him out because he mixed up the leading and trailing plugs once lol. Thanks again for the videos!
My FRS was a little difficult getting to but I got them in and out in 45 minutes. I watched a rundown and it wasn’t that bad once I knew what I was getting into.
I got a 1/4 in drive long handle 3/8adapter and it worked great.
My go to for a ej dohc is a snap on S9710KC with a 2" extension and a FHLFD80AG ratchet. Depending on the chassis you can use the ratchet as a nut driver instead of going back and forth or using your fingers to unscrew the spark plug. Only time I do the plugs on the under side is when the car is highly modified and it's actually easier/less time than disconnecting intercooler pipes, fuel lines, air boxes, catch cans, and braces. Worst spark plugs i've done is on race sbc and bbc engines with large tube headers wrapped around them where you have to give the old reach around with a snap on S9724RHS and a 5/8 ratcheting flex wrench then struggle to get the new plug started because the spark plug hole is angled.
did the valve cover gaskets and spark plugs on my 2.5i 15 forester after wtching this and your guide on valve cover gaskets. The video really helped. i bought a 14mm sparkplug sockect and the astro long 1/4 head 3/8 drive ratchet. the only thing i wish i would have had was a snap on ratchet instead, ive been spoiled by those and the light back drag. if id have never used a snap on ratchet before the astro would have been alright in my hands
Your videos always helpful! Even without Ko-ken low profile ratchet (can't be delivered to Russia for normal price) it's possible to replace spark plugs.
Ugh.. That #4 spark plug.. ha ha I hate doing this job on my '05 Outback XT. A much needed/helpful video on these cars. This is the perfect example of "using the right tool will make the job easier". The type of job where just 3-5mm clearance can make a big difference. Thanks Mr. Subaru for this great video.
Even my dealer, the largest one in the SE US doesn’t want to replace F150 plugs. They recommended a local shop that specializes in diesel engines.
Thank you for this excellent video. It has given me the information as well as the confidence to do this on my own Subaru!
Fascinating, yeah I've used the engine lift method but mostly because I was doing the cam cover seals on my 06 LGT. Other times small hands helps and I use a 1/4 d ratchet and wobble extenstion, biggest problem on the LGT is getting the ignition coils out of the way without scratching up the frame rails. Subarus aren't really hard gm fwd v6s were the worst ;)
Those koken tools make me drool. Ive got a full snap on beginner tech set. but the kokens just look NICE
This is my fuel-hose, there are many like it but this one is mine. It is really silly, but best success I had with sparkplug-operation was with a a fuel hose. I'm not joking. It's flexible, it gives just enough grip to the sparkplug, yet it minimizes the risk of ruining the threads. Ofcourse, once it's threaded in snugly, you can torque it to spec easily after that.
Did the spark plug on my 2011 Subaru wrx and it was actually pretty simple just need a small 3” extension and spark plug socket
Just did a 2016 Outback. Entirely from underneath. Didn’t need to remove the battery or air box. (Tho I did remove the two lower battery mount bolts from underneath to buy me a precious few millimeters needed for the driver-side rear plug, which is arguably the hardest one). Just had to drop the undertray.
It seemed much easier to do it lying on my back than straining my back leaning over the top.
2.5 hours but went off without a hitch.
I've had fantastic luck replacing the plugs in my '16 WRX & '15 BRZ with the "Motion Pro 08-0512 14mm Spark Plug Socket" I got off Amazon. It's natively 1/4 drive and is the exact right length to place even a normal (non-thin) socket wrench on the end. What's more, the body is also hex so you can easily turn it with an open-ended wrench/ratcheting one if so desired.
The worst vehicle I have had for replacing the spark plugs was a 1994 Ford Aerostar with the 4.0 V6 engine.
Well, that was an eye opener 😁. Glad we have the SOHC.
I’ve got pretty basic tools and have always been able to access the plugs with a series of extensions. I’ve done 2 or3 changes in my 05 OTB EJ257 I believe🤷🏾♂️.
I have a question for you, mr S. what about gapping; do you find it 100% necessary to set the gaps properly? I’ve always done it, just wondering if I’m wasting my time.
So yup... My advice is 3 ibuprofen to start.. helps with all the wild positions you need to put your hands and arms in, also helps with all the nicks and cuts on those wire ties and sheet metal. All that aside, about 4 hrs start to done and running. 2018 Crosstrek, m/t. And yes, rear plug drivers side was last and a bear. Watching this video did prep me for what to expect.. thanks.
yup you are right , i have had to replace v6 engine plugs and some of them are a nightmare haha and as for subaru they really are not to bad to replace and put either Iridium or Platinum plugs in my EJ206 and Ej208 twin turbo which are normally good for 100,000 km so not changing them all that often either
snap-on Wobbly spark plug socket :3in extention easy, no separating 40 min. Job done.
Many folks who diy don’t realize that you can customize socket wrenches. This is doable even with some of the more cost forgiving brands or, if you’re like me, you keep your eyes out for those “unicorn” wrenches. You might only use them for one particular job, but each time you do it you smile instead of swear.
I’ve found that most fwd v6 vehicles the intake needs removed to replace spark plugs, as you said Fords, Toyotas, Hondas, Usually it’s the support brackets in on the back of the manifold are a pain to get off. Pro master vans are one of few that I’ve found you can get away without pulling the intake manifold. Dodge recommends pulling the intake but not necessary, it’s a bit tighter of a squeeze, but with the right combination of extensions it’s possible and still quicker than pulling the manifold. I would still rather replace Subaru spark plugs than most fwd v6 configurations.
I just did the plugs on my Crosstrek hybrid. The driver’s side is pretty easy but there is a thick wiring harness from the extra battery on the passenger side that makes it even more fun.
You’re very knowledgeable on these cars! I never work on Subaru but did oil change on 2017 Subaru Forester 2.5 premium and that about it. A lot of experience in gmc/mopars/Nissan/some Hyundai/ford. But I would like to work on Subaru cars. I’ll add tools to my list. Very helpful video!
Thank you for helping me decide to have the shop do the work!
Yep, always having the right tools makes all the difference!
Lmao.
I Wish I would have seen this excellent vid BEFORE I did mine! 2015 outback 2.5.
The wrench size & thickness is very important! I ended up using multiple 1/4" to 3/8" adapters to make my own shorter extension as I only had 3"!
The 2014 dodge grand caravan you have yo remove the full air plenum, air filter, engine cover and need new plenum gaskets to replace the spark plugs
They can be a pain in any vehicle over 1990 what use to be a simple job now has a challenge to even to experience tech a tons of special tools
Some in Instagram commented about how difficult a spark plug change in a Subaru, then I searched for it and landed straight here…damnnnn this thing is extremely difficult😅
I attempted to remove the plugs on my 2017 Outback at 60K (retired VW tech). Removing the battery did not give me appreciable access to the left bank of the engine. I have the Snap On 1/4" flex head ratchet converted to 3/8" drive (very useful for doing plugs on the old air-cooled VWs). The battery tray is ridiculously hard to remove, and even though my hands aren't particularly large I had to give it up and take it to the dealer.
Did I miss the slim torque wrench recommendations?
I used to work at Ford and those 5.4 3 valve engines can be a real pain if you don't know how to tackle it. Basically you get it up to temp and use a battery powered 3/8 drive impact on them. They will usually come out just fine but if they break, your day just got ruined. I drive an sti and I'm due for new plugs and I've been a little apprehensive about doing it. I've never changed plugs on a Subaru but I've seen a lot of videos so I'm pretty sure I can get it done.
Just replaced my spark plugs and coil packs, took around an hour or two. Once you get stuff out of the way it takes no time at all.
If you can change plugs without removing plenums it's a win win!
Why does Subaru recommenced changing spark plugs every 60,000 miles vs. 100,000 miles for other automotive manufactures? Thanks.
MrSubaru, I just watched this very thorough video and was impressed. But unless I missed something I didn't see my 20 outback 2.4 Turbo covered. Do you have one on how to replace the plugs in that vehicle. Thank you
Do they use iridium plugs?
What is the recommendation for replacement period?
What gap for plug is correct?
What triggers the coil to fire at correct piston position ?
I own a 2018 Impreza(base sedan). I just hit 59,000 miles the other day and am the typical routine maintenance DIY guy: Oil changes, brake pads, filters, but have never replaced spark plugs. My car, up to this point, runs fine, sounds fine, starts with no problem and has decent fuel economy still.....should I change them "just because" it's the next recommended item from my dealer?
I have an EJ 253, from 2011 ! Lucky me! Didn't even remove the battery.
Could you please, Comment on jacking up the motor for replacing spark plugs.
You're not understating about those rear spark plugs for the 3.6r. 95% of my time to do it, including getting battery and air intake out of the way, was spent on those two. If any one has short stubby fingers like me then you will be swearing while doing those two. I found that it was easier for me to start the spark plug by hand and once I was positive I was not cross threaded, then put the plug socket on to tighten it down. I also removed the rubber boot in the socket for those two for fear of not being able to get enough leverage to pull the socket off due to the tight finger space. All I had was the thicker ratchets but I will definitely get a thinner one along with a better socket before doing this again. The other 4 were fairly easy. Thanks for showing some of the ratchet and socket options out there to do this.
Mr Subaru I have 19 Forester and the spark plug replacement work is quite challenging. I have replaced the passenger side and driverside front one. I believe it require disconnecting the connector from the coil. Do you happen to have the how-to video on this model?
My JDM Subaru legacy 2.0R has 200,000km on it, but it's started to consume fuel like a G wagon. I had the maf cleaned, new air filter no check engine lights... what could be the matter and what are its spark plug type and gap...
About to pick up my first subaru ever today! a 2023 Subaru Forester Wilderness :) How big of an actual issue is the fact that they only have direct injection and build up carbon? what's the best way to remediate that? Thanks for any insight!
I’m an advanced DIY (not professional technician )and not all that familiar with Subarus. I heard this job was a nightmare and avoided it for 6 months. Did the procedure on a 2012 Forrester .As it turned out it was actually 45 minutes of easy work. The local dealer here wanted 349.95 and 27.95 per plug, just insane. I purchased the same NGK plugs from Rock Auto for 13.98 each.
But you still charged the customer $400 right? Lol
I have a 2019 Impreza 5 door with the 2.0. I’m about to change the spark plugs, what size socket do I need? Is it 14mm? Should I buy a swivel socket? Thanks.
H6 are a but of a pain, I was actually going to mention that ford motor 😂 what a joke. The 5.7 hemi can be fun 16 but pugs most stuck right under the cab. Great video
I always lift the engine on my legacy ‘07 2.0R
Only 6 bolts, 4 at the transmission en 2 for the engine, after that a jack with some kind of rubber to raise it. Spark plug replacement is a walk in the park after that
I just finished changing the plugs on my 2016 2.5i Premium Legacy. I installed NGK Ruthenium HX LKAR7AHX-S plugs which are supposed to have 2X the life of Iridium so I'm really hoping I can wait another 120K miles until I do this job again.
One pain was removing the 2 side bolts holding the battery tray. Luckily I had a 9/16" ratcheting box end wrench which worked on the 14mm heads. I don't know how even with a skinny ratchet there would be enough room for a socket. It seems ridiculous they need 6 bolts to mount it (4 on top and 2 on side) and hope that my reinstalling only 5 bolts (had trouble getting my hand in the tight space and threading the bottom position on the side and gave up) isn't a problem.
The biggest unexpected surprise was the coil pack boot came off the body and remained stuck to the front driver side spark plug. It was not easy to remove taking a couple of hours and in the process the boot ripped in multiple pieces and was destroyed. Ultimately I had a fine hook and pick set from Harbor Freight where I was able to get it past the end of the boot and then hook it to pull it off. Luckily from O'reilly you can buy the boot only and my local store even had it in stock! So for less than $6 I was able to fix this rather than paying a minimum of $90+ for an off brand coil pack or ordering one online for $70 and waiting a couple of days with the car undriveable. Knowing what I know now, and seeing that RockAuto also sells the boots for less than 1/2 the price of O'reilly, I will probably order a couple (maybe all 4) with the spark plugs if I ever have to change them again.
I had bought a Korr 14mm swivel magnetic spark plug socket on Amazon, which worked well making it easy to removed and install the plugs. The other handy tool was a magnetic retriever to pick up tools / bolts which fell down and sat on top of the plastic shroud running underneath the front of the car. Unfortunately I wasn't able to find my 10mm socket which I dropped on the passenger side.
While it wasn't smooth, I like that I saved a lot of money and the car is running well and idling more smoothly.
Chevrolet S10 and GMC S15 trucks including the S10 Blazers and GMC Jimmy with the 4.3,through the wheel well.Worst one is the middle plug on the driver's side,steering shaft is in the way.Either unbolt the steering shaft or the steering box prying the steering box up getting the plug in and out
Snap-on makes a special spark plug socket for the V6 S series trucks/SUVs.
Great instructional video. Fantastic mechanical demonstration.
I am ISO Tampa independent certified subaru mechanic (is that a thing?) to do my Ascent 60 K. The Dealer is a racket!
I just replaced the spark plugs on 2015 Subaru Legacy. Tools needed were:
3/8 inch socket ratchet
10MM wrench for battery hold-down bolts
14MM socket with 10 inch extension for battery plate (6 bolts in total, 2 on the inside between engine and wheel well that were the hardest to remove and put back due to lack of clearance). I spent more time removing and putting back these 2 inner bolts than replacing the 4 spark plugs. Why did Subaru put 6 bolts to secure the battery box (steel bracket underneath the plastic battery tray). I used a 1/2 inch drive ratchet (18 inch) and socket as they were torqued to tight.
10MM wrench for spark plug coil bolts
9/16 spark plug socket and 2 inch extension, remove the spark plugs. The driver side back spark plug had a little less clearance so used a 3/8 flex extension to loosen the plug and remove it. Replacement was the reverse. A swivel head extension would work as well.
Wow! Thank you very much for this video. I have a 2017 Forester XT that will be needing the spark plugs replaced soon. I will definitely will be purchasing the necessary tools. Question - Can you recommend a good\inexpensive torque wrench for the spark plugs? Godspeed! 😁😀
Just want to see if you get an answer...
Just ordered a 1/4in and a 3/8in Gearwrench electronic torque wrench for my EJ253 rebuild, but you could probably get away with something cheaper for the spark plugs. We all know how much Mr. Subaru loves HF Pittsburgh 😂😂😂
Idk off hand. Personally I use my Snap-on ATECH, so I don't know what to recommend as far as good DIY speed.
I have 2006 outback 3.0R H6. How much is it different to use 3rd party brand spark plugs over OEM spark plugs?
NGK only. If you have to deviate, Denso. Nothing else I would put in a Subaru engine.
Asking for trouble to not use OE plugs in an untuned/unmodified engine. Use the OE plugs. They aren't something that's changed so often for it to be a financial hit.
I would also buy them from a reputable source to avoid fakes. Not worth it to save a few dollars if they don't perform well. I'm hearing lots of horror stories about counterfeit parts of all types, including plugs.
@@jeffd3844 Good point. LOTS of counterfeit NGK plugs on Amazon and eBay.
did you mean to not mention the FB28B for the 2013-2019 Nprth American Outback ???
Mr Subaru I get more good ideas from your videos. How can I get a MATCO AFR128LFR ratchet converted to 3/8" drive? What additional pieces besides the ratchet do I need to order in order to do the conversion? Thank you
I have a video on this. ruclips.net/video/NhcSdtxIpbg/видео.html
About to hit 50k miles. This video will be my guide for my first Boxer engine spark plug swap.
48k here
74000 miles here and no need for spark plugs replacement so far. I have heard people replace them at 100k or even later.
@@spiritpower7161 I don't mind getting dirty. I think the standard plugs don't last as long as the higher end ones, and I won't know what I have in mine until I pull.....one...not all four. 🤓 Thanks for the idea, I'm much more willing to pull the ONE and confirm the condition, instead of trying ot great 1.5 hrs of free time to swap them all.
I have 2 vehicles with horrible spark plug procedures... Great!
Luckily i probably won't see the mile recommendation and don't bother replacing anything unless it needs it. Preventative maintenance (of parts, not fluids) feel like they more often than not cause a problem instead of prevent one!!
I have a pretty good method and set of tools for getting the spark plugs out of my subarus but I'm glad i watched anyway since i ended up ordering those koken z series sockets, definitely a better setup then i have been using. still would rather do a set of plugs in any of my subarus before doing the plugs on my 98 chevy astro again, i ended up purchasing a magnetic spark plug socket with a built in swivel extension since the rear plugs on the 4.3l in the chevy astro are a pita to get to without that tool.
Don’t have a Subie… but, I’ve always been curious on how this is done. Esp if I ever get a 2022 GR86 to replace my S2k Ap1.
Dont ever in your life replace a S2k , amazing beautiful car
Can you tell us why cylinders 1 & 4 wear out the plugs prematurely? Was reading that it was the wasted spark system or a bad valve adjustment. Help
Where do we find a listing of all of those engine model numbers that are on the video?
Whats the recommended flat rate time if the factory wants you to jack up the motor..3-4hrs for plugs?
Great info, thank you! Can you please comment or do a vid on spark plug replacement interval? Lots of debate on forums about if every 60K is really needed and my local Subie mechanic (heading is own shop for 35+ years) said I could likely go another 30K over the recommended interval. While another trusted mechanic I've used for over 25 years, said it could risk coil damage and advised sticking with every 60K.