I have a very important question about your technique... I noticed the Tea... is it tea into milk, or milk into tea for you!? I really couldn't tell from the video...
Thank you for raising this important point. I personally go for the milk into tea technique in order to achieve the maximum steeping temperature for the tea leaves. 😂
Thanks Richard, they came out well, without doing an over-the-top restoration, when I did mine I got away without repainting the front jaw either and I quite like the aged look, mine was a little older and the blue was slightly darker (and surprisingly soft) so I just cleaned it up with steel-wool and solvent and then waxed it. If you want to avoid any further mushrooming from the Tommy bar banging around you can wrap a thick elastic band ( or an offset of inner tube ) around each end !
What a fantastic restoration, I'm glad youtube pointed me here. I did similar a year or two ago with a 15inch Parkinson vise. The bigger vise is extremely useful for woodworking, mine can hold just about anything. I wasn't as diligent at cleaning up as you were, but it still looks okay (mine is red, which is what the Parkinson ones were originally, although I couldn't find images of the actual red used). Sadly your video wasn't available at the time, and I used a combination of wire wheels and nylon pads with the grinder, which was a much messier affair than your method.
Lovely job! I have a more rusty example of the same vice awaiting restoration so it's really useful to see the whole process explained. In my case I'll also need to upgrade my improvised workbench so it's a bigger job awaiting an opportune moment. A tip re making file 'safe' edges safer is to run a fine diamond stone over the entire length of the safe edge, this removes the sharp corners that formed when the file teeth were created and avoids needing to use protective masking tape, but maybe your approach is wiser... i.e. assume that the safe edge isn't safe!
Awesome! I just got my self one of those chinesium copies of the 2fot, but i realy want to get my hands on an original one, one day, but they are rare to find where i live.
It’s nice to see how throughly you did the restoration. Can’t wait to see the replacement jaws come together. Are you going to use beech or perhaps maple? Anyway, nice job Richard.
Try "guide" or "support" rods for those bits of round bar ... all they do is (try to) keep the front jaw parallel to the rear. Nice job, I'm using it for inspiration as I've got some older 52, 52E and 53 in the shed to do :-)
Richard, thanks for showing the detail of disassembly and assembly. I refurbished a vintage Morgan 200A vise not long ago. The parts list calls those parts the guide rods. I was wondering why you didn’t remove them. My vise works ok, but, being a woodworker rather than a metalworker, I did not think to grease any of the parts when I put it back together. I’m debating how difficult it would be to take it apart and grease it. I think it would work much more smoothly. Thank you for the lesson.
Glad you enjoyed it Elaine 👍 Guide rods sounds good to me, I had a real blank there 😂 With the Record the rods are swaged into the cast iron jaw so they are a permanent fit. As it happens one of the rods had jaw marks in it which looked to be from someone gripping the rod to try and remove it. For greasing I would just extend the vice out as far as it will go and put a little grease on the rods and lead screw towards the back near the nut box. That will get drawn into the mechanism well enough if you wind in the vice. You don't want too much grease and oil near the front otherwise it might transfer onto the piece you're working on.
Thanks 👍 Yes, I don't think the modern vices use buttress threads any more - more likely to see it on an artillery breech. Apparently that thread form as a lower quick release pressure than a square thread so might explain why they chose it.
I have a very important question about your technique... I noticed the Tea... is it tea into milk, or milk into tea for you!? I really couldn't tell from the video...
Thank you for raising this important point. I personally go for the milk into tea technique in order to achieve the maximum steeping temperature for the tea leaves. 😂
Thanks Richard, they came out well, without doing an over-the-top restoration, when I did mine I got away without repainting the front jaw either and I quite like the aged look, mine was a little older and the blue was slightly darker (and surprisingly soft) so I just cleaned it up with steel-wool and solvent and then waxed it. If you want to avoid any further mushrooming from the Tommy bar banging around you can wrap a thick elastic band ( or an offset of inner tube ) around each end !
Cheers Andy, that's a good idea about the bar. I might see about getting some O-Rings cheap off eBay which should do the trick 👍
I'm enjoying this series. Good work!
Thanks Jim, much appreciated 👍
I'm no expert but I think you did an amazing job !
Thanks Uwy, much appreciated 👍
Excellent work. I have a similar vise that I have not cleaned up as well as you!
What a fantastic restoration, I'm glad youtube pointed me here. I did similar a year or two ago with a 15inch Parkinson vise. The bigger vise is extremely useful for woodworking, mine can hold just about anything. I wasn't as diligent at cleaning up as you were, but it still looks okay (mine is red, which is what the Parkinson ones were originally, although I couldn't find images of the actual red used). Sadly your video wasn't available at the time, and I used a combination of wire wheels and nylon pads with the grinder, which was a much messier affair than your method.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. The Parkinson vice sounds like a good tool, good call keeping it in its original colours as close as you could 👍
Lovely job! I have a more rusty example of the same vice awaiting restoration so it's really useful to see the whole process explained. In my case I'll also need to upgrade my improvised workbench so it's a bigger job awaiting an opportune moment.
A tip re making file 'safe' edges safer is to run a fine diamond stone over the entire length of the safe edge, this removes the sharp corners that formed when the file teeth were created and avoids needing to use protective masking tape, but maybe your approach is wiser... i.e. assume that the safe edge isn't safe!
Great tip Doc - thanks 👍
Awesome! I just got my self one of those chinesium copies of the 2fot, but i realy want to get my hands on an original one, one day, but they are rare to find where i live.
It’s nice to see how throughly you did the restoration. Can’t wait to see the replacement jaws come together. Are you going to use beech or perhaps maple? Anyway, nice job Richard.
Thanks David, I have ordered some Beech offcuts to make the new vice jaws. I thought I'd use the same material as the originals.
Try "guide" or "support" rods for those bits of round bar ... all they do is (try to) keep the front jaw parallel to the rear. Nice job, I'm using it for inspiration as I've got some older 52, 52E and 53 in the shed to do :-)
Nice one. Good luck with the vices 👍
Richard, thanks for showing the detail of disassembly and assembly. I refurbished a vintage Morgan 200A vise not long ago. The parts list calls those parts the guide rods. I was wondering why you didn’t remove them. My vise works ok, but, being a woodworker rather than a metalworker, I did not think to grease any of the parts when I put it back together. I’m debating how difficult it would be to take it apart and grease it. I think it would work much more smoothly. Thank you for the lesson.
Glad you enjoyed it Elaine 👍 Guide rods sounds good to me, I had a real blank there 😂 With the Record the rods are swaged into the cast iron jaw so they are a permanent fit. As it happens one of the rods had jaw marks in it which looked to be from someone gripping the rod to try and remove it.
For greasing I would just extend the vice out as far as it will go and put a little grease on the rods and lead screw towards the back near the nut box. That will get drawn into the mechanism well enough if you wind in the vice. You don't want too much grease and oil near the front otherwise it might transfer onto the piece you're working on.
Good progress. It's odd to see buttress threads on the vises, everything I come across here in the states has either standard screw threads or Acme.
Thanks 👍 Yes, I don't think the modern vices use buttress threads any more - more likely to see it on an artillery breech. Apparently that thread form as a lower quick release pressure than a square thread so might explain why they chose it.
@@radboogieI agree, ACME is actually a motive thread, definitely not what you want on a cannon breech