Hot Rod magazine years ago painted a 62 Ford Falcon with Rustoleum for under a $100.00. It was a 2 week process and included using foam brushes and sanding every two or three coats. In the end it looked OK. My suggestion Danny boy: Go to the paint store or even Body Shops in the area and see what the have for "mistake paint" (stuff mixed wrong or never picked up). Usually 1/2 price or cheaper. Turn on the old Dan charm and you might get it cheaper. Get a red, use it for your base then put the red you want over the top, you'll use less material and save money! Keep fighting the good fight young Jedi, you're learning!😆
You have to completely strip ANY surface that has Rustoleum or Krylon paint before any other primer,sealer, or paint is sprayed on any of the metal too.Tgar goes for the tiniest bit of overspray on anything too.
So basically unless you plan on stripping the whole car at some point. You don't touch it with spray paint like rustoleum OR even quarts or gallons mixed and cut in a gun.
Dave: sometimes you can coat over it. Urethane Primer will give you a good idea if anything will work since it is the most stable primer. An old timer told me the drier you get something down the less of a chance it will lift. Light multiple coats til you bridge it and give it time to dry to see if it will shrink.
@@glennnickerson8438 The thinner/reducer eats into it and lifts the paint...Also once you scratch the paint at all by sanding it lifts when any type of thinner is applied..I.e primer...Nobody's going to spray a car without smoothing the surface and if they're any good at all or have half of a brain they're going to NEVER spray over rustoleum.
Nothing wrong with trimclad. I have sprayed alot of it. I found it works best mixed 4/4/1 using a good automotive thinners. Not reducer. It's a oil based paint and need lots of driers added to it to dry. A good single stage hardner works good. The Nason brand tends to give it more orange peel. Don't be afraid to lay on the coats . I'll do at least 4 and you will see it laying out flatter on the 3rd and 4th coats. Rustoleum has a larger selection of colors then trimclad. Keep at it. your skill level just gets better and better.
Hi Fitzee's so you are saying 4 part paint 4 part reducer 1 part hardener for the reducer what do you recommend I also love your RUclips channel I have learned so much I have a channel restoring first generation Firebird great to see you here also
@@firstgenerationgarage2803 I use thinners not a reducer. Good automotive thinners. Not that cheap Canadian tire stuff. Thinners dries paint faster then reducer. With the oil based paints it needs more driers added. Reducer has alot less drying capabilities so take longer.
Retired from a paint lab after 26yrs....Paint 101>> Red, Org, Yellow & Blue are the most expensive pigments. The More Reducer that is used the More you'll Reduce the Gloss.Talcum powder is used to make satin & flats mixed in at High Speed. Viscosity & spray pattern most Important of spray-gun operation. Warm Paint up if possible above 80 F. Painting in 70 -90 F a must if all possible. Hope this Helps All Who Reads...YMMV
I've painted 7-10 cars/trucks with Rustoleum and used Mar-Hyde Wet Look catalyst and acetone thinner as a reducer. The acetone helps it dry faster...I believe the Rustoleum paint can says use acetone.... Never use mineral spirits/paint thinner, even if the can says to use it! It's too oily and takes forever to dry. The Mar-Hyde Wet Look catalyst has UV protection in it. It makes the Rustoleum paint harder and more scratch resistant and also makes it have a wetter look. You did right by adding water to the floor but next time put a fan up, blow everything out of your shop, let it sit awhile and add more water on the floor. The main thing that causes dust bumps is dust kicked-up by walking around, the air hose moving around the floor and dust falling off the ceiling and shelves etc. You can wet sand and buff Rustoleum same as auto paint. Mix the reducer (acetone) not by measuring but by "feel" and experience knowing the right consistency for the temperature of the shop and for spraying out of the gun you're using. Practice! Always try a new thing on scrap before just jumping in, if you want success. Plus, some people are a "natural" and some aren't haha. If in doubt, get advice. "A wise man seeks wisdom, a fool thinks he knows enough". All of the cars/trucks I've done with Rustoleum paint (oil based) looked like they were done with auto paint...very nice and professional looking. And if you want a show car finish, wet sand and buff the paint after. But...nothing beats regular auto paint...save up your money and get the good stuff! Don't spend hours and hours and days and days and months and months on a car project and put cheap paint on it! "Do it yourself" doesn't have to mean "do it cheap"! The main thing I've seen over the years is that most people don't have patience to do a job right...they have tons of excuses. No excuse for laziness. Do you want to be known as a red neck backyard shade tree worker or a smart, patient "does it right" worker? You don't need to be rich...just have patience.
@@coherantbliss3483 You got that right! If Someone finds A Short Cut Or Can Do It In A Different Way All The More Power To Them. You Just Have To Learn. I'm By The Book Kinda Guy Though. I Still Pick Up A Gun Every Now And Than. The Most Important Thing Is Please Wear A Mask! I Know People That Have Clear Coated Their Lungs. It's Just Not Worth It. Get A Mask That Is Rated For Paint. You Can Go To Paint Supply Businesses And Find Some Good Already Mixed Paint Some Times.
I am a body man /painter /restorer /mechanic of over 30 years ..take a red its true color you first paint the car white..same goes for yellow and orange ..it will take less red paint to cover and it will be brighter
Lighting plays tricks with colors! I bought a 1976 Camaro that was on the show room floor, I thought it was a shade of red but when the wife and I went the next day to pick it up….well it was orange! Turned out I loved it but wasn’t what I had expected. 😁
@@clevelandmaker386 He wants a 30 footer and to be honest sticking $1000's of dollars of paintwork on something that is still not a real vert would be a waste and that money better spent on getting real 2 door chrome and the insert panels on the quarters IMHO
Love the color. I actually have a 57 4dr hardtop that's been in my possession since 1980. I also have 2 gallons of Rust-O-lium red paint. I bought the paint with the idea of painting the 57 with it. Now I have to try it. I also thought converting to a convertible years ago, but couldn't convince myself it was possible. This project proves it is possible. Thanks Dan!
Dan - forget panel painting, walk the entire length of what you're painting, then you don't double up your paint on all the edges, this cuts down on the chance of runs and will give an even mil thickness. Once you get used to this you'll wonder why you didn't do it in the first place.
I have been painting cars for years. I recommend you add something like "Japan Drier." The purpose of flashing the first coat is to give it teeth for a thicker second coat. Your first coat was very thick, and with as slow as it dries, you risk a possible sag.
DD Speed Shop 20 years ago I went to tractor supply store and bought a gallon of John deer yellow paint for about $25 and painted my 65 Chevy 2 with it it turned out awesome bright stuck like glue took awhile to harden I should of used more hardner but it was a sweet paint job for pennies
A little rag about two feet away from your gun. Use for cleaning the tip as you go. Build up of paint as you paint. Trim I prep it with wax or armor all, make for cleaning up. I understand your practicing so when you are ready to do your nomad. 👍👍👍
I’m glad you are doing a shiny paint job. The stickiness of the paint is from the enamel base. I added a little mixing clear to my last coat of enamel paint jobs.Red oxide primer doesn’t Allow the color to be bright.
I kid you not, I saw a sweet shiny red Nomad yesterday out doing it's Sunday drive. Built. All one color and shiny chrome. Smell of unburnt fuel in the air. Immediately thought of both these builds.
This great. i painted my 57 post with Krylon rattle can paint,after body work. Then bought cheap clear and sprayed it, buffed and no one knew. it was great. Ill paint golf carts that way for people, results are awesome.
If your looking for a one of a kind red my 58 Corvette was Signet red and I really liked it. What ever you put on this 57 it's going to really finish off the exterior and make the chrome really stand out. Remember where you started with this car. It's really come a long way.
If you can find International Harvester red. At tractor supply store it's like $40 a gallon by the time you get reducer and hardener for it you be into it for around $100
@@DDSpeedShop I painted my friends 79 Chevy pickup pulling truck years ago Kubota orange it came out nice. If it's good enough for tractor it's good enough for a car or truck.
I Think you are Going in the Right Direction. Each Time I Thought the Red Was The Right Color, the Camera angle or Light Would Change and it Looked Orange. Hard to say being all the Variables between Filming And Transmission to My Screen. Appreciate You Having us Along, Catch You On The next One. Keep It Safe Out There Brother.
Im kind of suprised how bright the driver side looks even though its on red oxide primer. Need a look at it from 40 feet. Red and shiny, better than primer all day long!
It's always a challenge to get the color in your mind .. going for a industrial/farm color might be your best bet and hopefully cheaper.. keep at it brother when it's right and the sun is out all of this struggle will fade with the smiles ...
Tremclad is my favourite. Used the same shade as your passenger side to coat a 1980 K5 Blazer and used the same red as your passenger side to coat a 1984 Custom Deluxe. Both great colours. The Canadian trick is to use gasoline as a reducer.
You can order 99 dollar kits of acrilic enamel car paint that is way more durable and UV protection so the Rust-Oleum is just not worth it. But its a nice color Dan. Definitely looks good in cherry red
The regal red looks like the sunrise red in the US. I’ve painted several Snap-On box restorations with that color, it’s close enough & I like it. Sunrise is also close enough to Massey Ferguson red, painted an old box blade & brush hog. They’ve been out in the elements for years, still look decent.
i saw a reddit post a few years ago about a guy painting his car using rustoleum with a roller. he claimed he thinned it out using mineral spirits and that it leveled itself and came out great but it needed like 5 to 7 coats or something. i had some sheet metal laying around at work and some rustoleum paint so i bought a roller and some mineral spirits to test it out. i primered all the metal, and i mixed the paint and mineral spirits in multiple ratios on a few different pieces of metal to see if it made a difference. in the end, what i found was that if you mix rustoleum white gloss paint with mineral spirits you end up with matte white. it didn't matter what the ratio was, every single one was as matte as computer paper. i wet sanded and polished for what seemed like forever and could never get any of them to shine. Maybe you could put a clear coat over it but for me that really defeated the purpose. at that point it no longer cheap nor convenient. I'd say myth busted.
Rustoleum up north must have different colors, that is the exact red I am spraying my Duster . Here it’s called Sunrise Red. Safety Red I think is their brightest color of reds. Suggestions: -First coat needs to be a Tack Coat. -Best I’ve sprayed was 4:3:1 with the activator. Helps smooth it out even more and helps with hardness. - Japanese drier is better than activator for cold weather . Cannot wait to spray mine !
Dan the brown primer, is part of the visual effect, Brown, Red, White, gray, for visual...Example a 10 inch stripe of Red on your box then a white, or gray primer and then Brown on other side, and take it outside in Natural light.
I'm totally in on the red color!! Please proceed with the rest of the car, if you'd prefer. Easier to get in, compared to the General Lee. Nice work Dan!! Cheers!!
Dan it looks much more respectable with colour. Good for you. How about not spaying a panel at a time but spraying the whole horizontal length so you keep a wet edge and work your way down. That way don't build up too much paint on the edges of the panels. I learned to sling the air hose over my shoulder and down my back as to keep it out of the paint and not have to handle it as much. Thanks for all you work. Jules.
Lay a coat or two of white paint, then spray red. It'll use less red & it'll be brighter. I painted a car 30 years ago with Tremclad red (actually one gallon of red & one quart of yellow mixed to make a bright red) then sprayed clear coat on top. I still own the car & it still looks great : )
I used rustoleum satin black 7777 for years when painting frames and inner body structure. The thing that made it work so well for me was using dupont 8022s mid temp enamel reducer. 50% reduction. There is a big difference between hardware store products and auto body quality products. Mineral spirits are garbage and may be made from recycled products. Naptha is ok but for best results the auto body products are light years better. Do not use laquer thinner for enamels as it is way too fast a reducer and will not gloss or adhere corrrectly. Just my unasked for opinion!.
I prefer the darker red on the passenger fender. The driver fender color looks like it wants to be red but can’t quite make it. I NEVER tried to paint a car with Rustoleum paint. To that end I’m very impressed with how it came out. John
Several years ago, I used the Black Rustoleum to paint a beater F-150. I sanded the truck good enough for paint adhesion, cleaned it, used wax and grease remover and wiped it down with a tack cloth. I mixed my paint 50/50 with Acetone and shot it with a Home Depot HLVP gun. It looked fantastic and I had like $20 maybe into the whole deal. Not sure how it held up as I sold the truck not long after.
Rustoleum has a different chemical makeup than regular enamel. A couple tricks. Heat the rustoleum to 100 deg f before reducing and adding japan hardener.
She looks good on the left, maybe a little too much orange in the sun, I painted my 1970 tor red Roadrunner porch red and it was the deep red I wanted, keep in mind it was 1983 and a budget job on and finding a real painter back then was Almost impossible (lol) the 80’s Keep it up looking good
Worked in a parts store (1980's) that mixed paint. Red colors have ALWAYS been more expensive because of the pigments. Summit has some pretty decent house brand paints better than the Rustoleum. You can get Rustoleum to go on OK with catalyzers or cross-linkers but it won't last. I bought a truck that had a really cheap scuff and shoot job when I bought it. Was Ok for 20 years parked inside. When I ran out of space and moved it outside it completely faded and went to hell in 2 years. Before Acrylic Enamel, the old Enamel took FOREVER, if ever to dry.
Hey Dan, I painted the headboard of my truck bed with that fire red and painted the rest of my truck with omni/ ppg 73354 gm paint code bright red. Its a shade darker when up close but from 15 feet away it almost looks like a perfect match. The darker the primer you use will make the paint darker too so keep doing test panels until you find the right color you want.
I am a retired painter, and I agree it is too orangey, I think you should try fire engine red. But that is my opinion and we know all about opinions.If you want to go with an implement color you might look at Case Red.
Just painted my 82 Rabbit truck with paint from Atwood's here in Kansas 29 .95 plus the reducer and hardner and fish eye preventative. Hang in there practice makes perfect
I've had decent success with rustoleum. Once I even mixed white and dark blue and color matched a baby blue for a temporary rust repair (which lived longer than I expected it too). I've usually used generic paint thinner from home improvement stores. Obviously it's not show cars I've painted-(shop cabinets, furniture, old trucks). The biggest secret I think is to mix plenty of paint to spray at the outset and plan for some failure so your not changing to a fresh mix for a spot repair. I think it's somehow more sensitive to slight differences in mixing ratios and changes how it acts. Mix enough you know you'll have leftover pot ready paint. Don't be afraid to mix1- 1 1/2 or 2 gallons of pot ready, all in the same bucket/can whatever. What you don't use won't matter when you think about the money you invest/save vs. high dollar car paints. 1 time I used 6 month old pot paint and just mixed it with the next total batch/job and no problems. You do have to go multiple coats to get good even tone in the color, don't try to get your color in one or two coats. You might get lucky and get what you want at the second coat, just don't count on it. The comment about marhyde wet look reducer is something I've yet to do but have considered before. If there's any record of success using it- myself -I'd use it on the convertible. Safety red in rustoleum industrial enamel (real enamel) is what I used on some work trucks and work beds. Shiny enough for that, but mostly good tough 1 step bright red paint for work trucks. Was about 50$ gallon last time I used it(a while ago). I sprayed with the old cheapie (binks look alike) pressure guns set as low an air pressure as I could go and spray ok (which varies for humidity, temp etc). The best thing? Safety red comes in spray cans for touch ups which is good for work trucks and mayhem. Stateside the Sherman Williams paint shops have 1 step industrial enamel you can buy per gallon too, more expensive. However you're supposed to be able to get a color custom mixed in that line at you local store. I think if you played with it a bit you could be very satisfied with an "impossible to spray" rustoleum type paint job. Thanks for sharing
I think the rustoleum paint is a good choice for those who don’t want to spend a lot of money I spent $500 on one gallon of custom blue paint for my wife’s 67 mustang! The next paint job I will go that route! Great video 👍🏻 as always
If a real red is what you want I'd try (2015 ford ruby red) and take all the fenders, doors and other big chunks off to paint. It always looks better when the jams match. Considering what you started with, this is great so far.You should also know that cloth interior in a rag top will fade fast and deteriorate unless you can keep it covered and dry.
You can go to a paint store and buy a gallon of mismatched paint for really cheap. We used to do that to sell semi trucks. Shiney paint sells! Although it might off a smiggin on the paint code.
I painted my 71 GMC with red tremclad with grey tremclad primer. It was ok for a while but did not stand up to time and after a few years was weathered and destroyed. For all the work that went into preparing for the paint, I wished I had spent more money and had the proper paint.
Funny you mentioned you lost your code reader! I lost one of mine a few months back. Thinking I left it in a car I sold, it maybe under the driver seat! We always enjoy learning with you! (Your Canadian uncle from a bit north of you)
Years ago we would buy a gallon of tractor paint at the hardware store and thin the paint with gasoline till it looked thin enough then paint a car or whatever using a gravity feed paint gun . Paint it two or three coats and call it good.
I think this is good practice for later . The rattle cans are cheaper / easier . But the actual mixing & using a paint gun gives you more control over the color & a better finished product . Just loads more work , cleaning , mixing , spraying , cleaning , repeat . I think it will look great in red . When you find the right red you like , I would cover the interior good with some 4 mil plastic & taped off . Then let r rip , go to town , do your thing . Everything is expensive now .
Hot Rod magazine years ago painted a 62 Ford Falcon with Rustoleum for under a $100.00. It was a 2 week process and included using foam brushes and sanding every two or three coats. In the end it looked OK. My suggestion Danny boy: Go to the paint store or even Body Shops in the area and see what the have for "mistake paint" (stuff mixed wrong or never picked up). Usually 1/2 price or cheaper. Turn on the old Dan charm and you might get it cheaper. Get a red, use it for your base then put the red you want over the top, you'll use less material and save money! Keep fighting the good fight young Jedi, you're learning!😆
I remember that issue! All that sanding in between coats to smooth it out that was a ton of work!
You have to completely strip ANY surface that has Rustoleum or Krylon paint before any other primer,sealer, or paint is sprayed on any of the metal too.Tgar goes for the tiniest bit of overspray on anything too.
So basically unless you plan on stripping the whole car at some point. You don't touch it with spray paint like rustoleum OR even quarts or gallons mixed and cut in a gun.
Dave: sometimes you can coat over it. Urethane Primer will give you a good idea if anything will work since it is the most stable primer. An old timer told me the drier you get something down the less of a chance it will lift. Light multiple coats til you bridge it and give it time to dry to see if it will shrink.
@@glennnickerson8438 The thinner/reducer eats into it and lifts the paint...Also once you scratch the paint at all by sanding it lifts when any type of thinner is applied..I.e primer...Nobody's going to spray a car without smoothing the surface and if they're any good at all or have half of a brain they're going to NEVER spray over rustoleum.
Nothing wrong with trimclad. I have sprayed alot of it. I found it works best mixed 4/4/1 using a good automotive thinners. Not reducer. It's a oil based paint and need lots of driers added to it to dry. A good single stage hardner works good. The Nason brand tends to give it more orange peel. Don't be afraid to lay on the coats . I'll do at least 4 and you will see it laying out flatter on the 3rd and 4th coats. Rustoleum has a larger selection of colors then trimclad. Keep at it. your skill level just gets better and better.
Thanks Tony. The tips are good (as always.)👍👍
The best thing here is i just found a new channel to sub. I can't believe youtube hasn't suggested you to me!!😊
Hi Fitzee's so you are saying 4 part paint 4 part reducer 1 part hardener for the reducer what do you recommend I also love your RUclips channel I have learned so much I have a channel restoring first generation Firebird great to see you here also
@@firstgenerationgarage2803 I use thinners not a reducer. Good automotive thinners. Not that cheap Canadian tire stuff. Thinners dries paint faster then reducer. With the oil based paints it needs more driers added. Reducer has alot less drying capabilities so take longer.
@@fitzeesfabrications Good to hear from you Fitz , yall about thawed out up there ?
Retired from a paint lab after 26yrs....Paint 101>> Red, Org, Yellow & Blue are the most expensive pigments. The More Reducer that is used the More you'll Reduce the Gloss.Talcum powder is used to make satin & flats mixed in at High Speed. Viscosity & spray pattern most Important of spray-gun operation. Warm Paint up if possible above 80 F. Painting in 70 -90 F a must if all possible. Hope this Helps All Who Reads...YMMV
Clean and one color works for me.
I've painted 7-10 cars/trucks with Rustoleum and used Mar-Hyde Wet Look catalyst and acetone thinner as a reducer. The acetone helps it dry faster...I believe the Rustoleum paint can says use acetone.... Never use mineral spirits/paint thinner, even if the can says to use it! It's too oily and takes forever to dry. The Mar-Hyde Wet Look catalyst has UV protection in it. It makes the Rustoleum paint harder and more scratch resistant and also makes it have a wetter look. You did right by adding water to the floor but next time put a fan up, blow everything out of your shop, let it sit awhile and add more water on the floor. The main thing that causes dust bumps is dust kicked-up by walking around, the air hose moving around the floor and dust falling off the ceiling and shelves etc. You can wet sand and buff Rustoleum same as auto paint. Mix the reducer (acetone) not by measuring but by "feel" and experience knowing the right consistency for the temperature of the shop and for spraying out of the gun you're using. Practice! Always try a new thing on scrap before just jumping in, if you want success. Plus, some people are a "natural" and some aren't haha. If in doubt, get advice. "A wise man seeks wisdom, a fool thinks he knows enough". All of the cars/trucks I've done with Rustoleum paint (oil based) looked like they were done with auto paint...very nice and professional looking. And if you want a show car finish, wet sand and buff the paint after. But...nothing beats regular auto paint...save up your money and get the good stuff! Don't spend hours and hours and days and days and months and months on a car project and put cheap paint on it! "Do it yourself" doesn't have to mean "do it cheap"! The main thing I've seen over the years is that most people don't have patience to do a job right...they have tons of excuses. No excuse for laziness. Do you want to be known as a red neck backyard shade tree worker or a smart, patient "does it right" worker? You don't need to be rich...just have patience.
A good Automotive Single Stage Urethane would make it look good and it's durable and has a great Shine. But You are learning!
@@christopherl2143 We all are always learning no matter how old we get!
@@coherantbliss3483 You got that right! If Someone finds A Short Cut Or Can Do It In A Different Way All The More Power To Them. You Just Have To Learn. I'm By The Book Kinda Guy Though. I Still Pick Up A Gun Every Now And Than. The Most Important Thing Is Please Wear A Mask! I Know People That Have Clear Coated Their Lungs. It's Just Not Worth It. Get A Mask That Is Rated For Paint. You Can Go To Paint Supply Businesses And Find Some Good Already Mixed Paint Some Times.
I am a body man /painter /restorer /mechanic of over 30 years ..take a red its true color you first paint the car white..same goes for yellow and orange ..it will take less red paint to cover and it will be brighter
I like the first red you put down on the driver’s side. All good reds have a hint of orange in them.
Never a dull moment when I tune in to your videos. 😄
I really like the way the driver's side looks on camera!!!
One of the big issues is if you try and put normal automotive paint over or near the rustoleum it will lift and do al sorts or crazy stuff.
It's going to look killer red!! Great job Dan...
Right On Time Brother
No judgment here!! You are a Inspiration!!
I agree go with the first red. Buy some
I like the red on the driver's side better. And like you said, convertibles look great red.
The driver’s side red is the bomb! Orange red is the color that attracts more attention as opposed to old lady lipstick red.
Lighting plays tricks with colors! I bought a 1976 Camaro that was on the show room floor, I thought it was a shade of red but when the wife and I went the next day to pick it up….well it was orange! Turned out I loved it but wasn’t what I had expected. 😁
Just a quick suggestion,buy a roll of plastic to cover the car!will save all the overspray going over the interior and windows etc
Haha yeah its on the list
@@DDSpeedShop ok....do the job right...go to o Reilly and get the right red....and BE GREATFUL THAT U HAVE ALL THOSE CARS!!!
(you asked!!)😉
@@clevelandmaker386 He wants a 30 footer and to be honest sticking $1000's of dollars of paintwork on something that is still not a real vert would be a waste and that money better spent on getting real 2 door chrome and the insert panels on the quarters IMHO
Life is too short to be worried about the little things! I love this👍 I think it looks great. Thanks for the vids
Oh yeah. Bright red for Chevy dark red is for Mopar. Love it
Love the color. I actually have a 57 4dr hardtop that's been in my possession since 1980. I also have 2 gallons of Rust-O-lium red paint. I bought the paint with the idea of painting the 57 with it. Now I have to try it. I also thought converting to a convertible years ago, but couldn't convince myself it was possible. This project proves it is possible. Thanks Dan!
The first red was my favorite. Looks good👍
Dan - forget panel painting, walk the entire length of what you're painting, then you don't double up your paint on all the edges, this cuts down on the chance of runs and will give an even mil thickness. Once you get used to this you'll wonder why you didn't do it in the first place.
say hello from gordon & i m happy to see the rag top 57 chevy getting love in paint RED TOO
I really like it. Red is the way to go.
I have been painting cars for years. I recommend you add something like "Japan Drier." The purpose of flashing the first coat is to give it teeth for a thicker second coat. Your first coat was very thick, and with as slow as it dries, you risk a possible sag.
I agree! That first coat should have just been dusted on.
Naptha works also.
DD Speed Shop 20 years ago I went to tractor supply store and bought a gallon of John deer yellow paint for about $25 and painted my 65 Chevy 2 with it it turned out awesome bright stuck like glue took awhile to harden I should of used more hardner but it was a sweet paint job for pennies
Dan i think it looks real good for what it is ,i love red
if you want the red to pop, use white for first coat
A little rag about two feet away from your gun. Use for cleaning the tip as you go. Build up of paint as you paint. Trim I prep it with wax or armor all, make for cleaning up. I understand your practicing so when you are ready to do your nomad. 👍👍👍
I painted the dash and the rims of my 49 Pontiac, Tremclad fire red. It turned out great.
I’m glad you are doing a shiny paint job.
The stickiness of the paint is from the enamel base.
I added a little mixing clear to my last coat of enamel paint jobs.Red oxide primer doesn’t
Allow the color to be bright.
I kid you not, I saw a sweet shiny red Nomad yesterday out doing it's Sunday drive. Built. All one color and shiny chrome. Smell of unburnt fuel in the air. Immediately thought of both these builds.
I am a fan of the drinkers side 'red' but then I am a big fan of Orange.... Keep going Dan, I am a big fan of the FakeTop 57.
This great. i painted my 57 post with Krylon rattle can paint,after body work. Then bought cheap clear and sprayed it, buffed and no one knew. it was great. Ill paint golf carts that way for people, results are awesome.
I think the 1st color looks good. Once you get the whole car that color it will look good.
The left side is a great color, I would go with that one 👍🏼. Good job keep it up. Thx
I’m really digging the driver side color. I think it stand out great. ✌️😎👍
Two tone red and cream or old English white I love that Con-vertible definitely my favourite so far.
If your looking for a one of a kind red my 58 Corvette was Signet red and I really liked it. What ever you put on this 57 it's going to really finish off the exterior and make the chrome really stand out. Remember where you started with this car. It's really come a long way.
Dd speed shop DD speed shop.... Oh, and jr says DD speed shop
If you can find International Harvester red. At tractor supply store it's like $40 a gallon by the time you get reducer and hardener for it you be into it for around $100
Same as 62 Tbird red
Yeah a few people have said that color. I'll check it out
@@DDSpeedShop I painted my friends 79 Chevy pickup pulling truck years ago Kubota orange it came out nice. If it's good enough for tractor it's good enough for a car or truck.
Driver side rear looks really good
I Think you are Going in the Right Direction. Each Time I Thought the Red Was The Right Color, the Camera angle or Light Would Change and it Looked Orange. Hard to say being all the Variables between Filming And Transmission to My Screen. Appreciate You Having us Along, Catch You On The next One. Keep It Safe Out There Brother.
Yeah its hard to tell
I think it looks absolutely killer
That is my kind of paint job! Painting my 02 ram dauly this summer with rustoleum!
Im kind of suprised how bright the driver side looks even though its on red oxide primer.
Need a look at it from 40 feet. Red and shiny, better than primer all day long!
From my house in Georgia, it looks great. I say go with it.
It's always a challenge to get the color in your mind .. going for a industrial/farm color might be your best bet and hopefully cheaper.. keep at it brother when it's right and the sun is out all of this struggle will fade with the smiles ...
Tremclad is my favourite. Used the same shade as your passenger side to coat a 1980 K5 Blazer and used the same red as your passenger side to coat a 1984 Custom Deluxe. Both great colours. The Canadian trick is to use gasoline as a reducer.
I like that color.... It looks good on the car
You can order 99 dollar kits of acrilic enamel car paint that is way more durable and UV protection so the Rust-Oleum is just not worth it. But its a nice color Dan. Definitely looks good in cherry red
The regal red looks like the sunrise red in the US. I’ve painted several Snap-On box restorations with that color, it’s close enough & I like it. Sunrise is also close enough to Massey Ferguson red, painted an old box blade & brush hog. They’ve been out in the elements for years, still look decent.
i saw a reddit post a few years ago about a guy painting his car using rustoleum with a roller. he claimed he thinned it out using mineral spirits and that it leveled itself and came out great but it needed like 5 to 7 coats or something.
i had some sheet metal laying around at work and some rustoleum paint so i bought a roller and some mineral spirits to test it out.
i primered all the metal, and i mixed the paint and mineral spirits in multiple ratios on a few different pieces of metal to see if it made a difference.
in the end, what i found was that if you mix rustoleum white gloss paint with mineral spirits you end up with matte white. it didn't matter what the ratio was, every single one was as matte as computer paper. i wet sanded and polished for what seemed like forever and could never get any of them to shine.
Maybe you could put a clear coat over it but for me that really defeated the purpose. at that point it no longer cheap nor convenient. I'd say myth busted.
Rustoleum up north must have different colors, that is the exact red I am spraying my Duster . Here it’s called Sunrise Red.
Safety Red I think is their brightest color of reds.
Suggestions:
-First coat needs to be a Tack Coat.
-Best I’ve sprayed was 4:3:1 with the activator. Helps smooth it out even more and helps with hardness.
- Japanese drier is better than activator for cold weather .
Cannot wait to spray mine !
Dan the brown primer, is part of the visual effect, Brown, Red, White, gray, for visual...Example a 10 inch stripe of Red on your box then a white, or gray primer and then Brown on other side, and take it outside in Natural light.
I'm totally in on the red color!! Please proceed with the rest of the car, if you'd prefer. Easier to get in, compared to the General Lee. Nice work Dan!! Cheers!!
Flame red for sure looks great
Great video glad you posted keep them coming thanks
Dan it looks much more respectable with colour. Good for you. How about not spaying a panel at a time but spraying the whole horizontal length so you keep a wet edge and work your way down. That way don't build up too much paint on the edges of the panels. I learned to sling the air hose over my shoulder and down my back as to keep it out of the paint and not have to handle it as much. Thanks for all you work. Jules.
pretty cool man! that 57 is perfect in the making!!
Lay a coat or two of white paint, then spray red. It'll use less red & it'll be brighter. I painted a car 30 years ago with Tremclad red (actually one gallon of red & one quart of yellow mixed to make a bright red) then sprayed clear coat on top. I still own the car & it still looks great : )
Did my 52 Chevy with rustoleum last year. Turned out okay. I’m not a show car guy just a diy hotrodder.
I like it. Over the years I have got burned out on real fancy paint jobs. As long as it keeps it from rusting out I would be happy.
I used rustoleum satin black 7777 for years when painting frames and inner body structure. The thing that made it work so well for me was using dupont 8022s mid temp enamel reducer. 50% reduction. There is a big difference between hardware store products and auto body quality products. Mineral spirits are garbage and may be made from recycled products. Naptha is ok but for best results the auto body products are light years better. Do not use laquer thinner for enamels as it is way too fast a reducer and will not gloss or adhere corrrectly. Just my unasked for opinion!.
You nailed it, that is exactly right. I've done a number paint jobs like that and they turn out OK IF you do the above
I prefer the darker red on the passenger fender. The driver fender color looks like it wants to be red but can’t quite make it.
I NEVER tried to paint a car with Rustoleum paint. To that end I’m very impressed with how it came out. John
Several years ago, I used the Black Rustoleum to paint a beater F-150. I sanded the truck good enough for paint adhesion, cleaned it, used wax and grease remover and wiped it down with a tack cloth. I mixed my paint 50/50 with Acetone and shot it with a Home Depot HLVP gun. It looked fantastic and I had like $20 maybe into the whole deal. Not sure how it held up as I sold the truck not long after.
Rustoleum has a different chemical makeup than regular enamel. A couple tricks. Heat the rustoleum to 100 deg f before reducing and adding japan hardener.
She looks good on the left, maybe a little too much orange in the sun, I painted my 1970 tor red
Roadrunner porch red and it was the deep red I wanted, keep in mind it was 1983 and a budget job on and finding a real painter back then was
Almost impossible (lol) the 80’s
Keep it up looking good
the orangeish paint looks really good!
Worked in a parts store (1980's) that mixed paint. Red colors have ALWAYS been more expensive because of the pigments. Summit has some pretty decent house brand paints better than the Rustoleum. You can get Rustoleum to go on OK with catalyzers or cross-linkers but it won't last. I bought a truck that had a really cheap scuff and shoot job when I bought it. Was Ok for 20 years parked inside. When I ran out of space and moved it outside it completely faded and went to hell in 2 years. Before Acrylic Enamel, the old Enamel took FOREVER, if ever to dry.
Hey Dan, I painted the headboard of my truck bed with that fire red and painted the rest of my truck with omni/ ppg 73354 gm paint code bright red. Its a shade darker when up close but from 15 feet away it almost looks like a perfect match. The darker the primer you use will make the paint darker too so keep doing test panels until you find the right color you want.
The car and color look killer, nice to see a shiny piece of work coming out of your garage !! Great work
I love the orange-red.
It's your faux rag top ,have fun I like watching from dfw area Texas .
I am a retired painter, and I agree it is too orangey, I think you should try fire engine red. But that is my opinion and we know all about opinions.If you want to go with an implement color you might look at Case Red.
Just painted my 82 Rabbit truck with paint from Atwood's here in Kansas 29 .95 plus the reducer and hardner and fish eye preventative. Hang in there practice makes perfect
I've had decent success with rustoleum. Once I even mixed white and dark blue and color matched a baby blue for a temporary rust repair (which lived longer than I expected it too). I've usually used generic paint thinner from home improvement stores. Obviously it's not show cars I've painted-(shop cabinets, furniture, old trucks).
The biggest secret I think is to mix plenty of paint to spray at the outset and plan for some failure so your not changing to a fresh mix for a spot repair. I think it's somehow more sensitive to slight differences in mixing ratios and changes how it acts. Mix enough you know you'll have leftover pot ready paint. Don't be afraid to mix1- 1 1/2 or 2 gallons of pot ready, all in the same bucket/can whatever. What you don't use won't matter when you think about the money you invest/save vs. high dollar car paints. 1 time I used 6 month old pot paint and just mixed it with the next total batch/job and no problems.
You do have to go multiple coats to get good even tone in the color, don't try to get your color in one or two coats. You might get lucky and get what you want at the second coat, just don't count on it. The comment about marhyde wet look reducer is something I've yet to do but have considered before. If there's any record of success using it- myself -I'd use it on the convertible.
Safety red in rustoleum industrial enamel (real enamel) is what I used on some work trucks and work beds. Shiny enough for that, but mostly good tough 1 step bright red paint for work trucks. Was about 50$ gallon last time I used it(a while ago). I sprayed with the old cheapie (binks look alike) pressure guns set as low an air pressure as I could go and spray ok (which varies for humidity, temp etc). The best thing? Safety red comes in spray cans for touch ups which is good for work trucks and mayhem.
Stateside the Sherman Williams paint shops have 1 step industrial enamel you can buy per gallon too, more expensive. However you're supposed to be able to get a color custom mixed in that line at you local store.
I think if you played with it a bit you could be very satisfied with an "impossible to spray" rustoleum type paint job. Thanks for sharing
I think the rustoleum paint is a good choice for those who don’t want to spend a lot of money I spent $500 on one gallon of custom blue paint for my wife’s 67 mustang! The next paint job I will go that route! Great video 👍🏻 as always
iDan, I like the way you're working more towards a more finished product
Always entertaining, Your good people!
If a real red is what you want I'd try (2015 ford ruby red) and take all the fenders, doors and other big chunks off to paint. It always looks better when the jams match. Considering what you started with, this is great so far.You should also know that cloth interior in a rag top will fade fast and deteriorate unless you can keep it covered and dry.
I love that red paint and the chrome looks 👍
💥If you must rattle can use DupliColor and in this case use Ford Cardinal Red over white primer and it will pop.
I like the driverside red the best
I think the first red was great Dan
Looks fine on the thumbnail
You can go to a paint store and buy a gallon of mismatched paint for really cheap. We used to do that to sell semi trucks. Shiney paint sells! Although it might off a smiggin on the paint code.
I painted my 71 GMC with red tremclad with grey tremclad primer. It was ok for a while but did not stand up to time and after a few years was weathered and destroyed. For all the work that went into preparing for the paint, I wished I had spent more money and had the proper paint.
I like the colors.
Your doing wounders. The vert is going to look great with red exterior!
Bro you kick ass at everything you do keep up the good work I hope to be as good as you some day thumbs-up
first impression Lovin It.
For zero money, keep after it and find the right Red shade. Cool video Dan
Great! I am a real fan of the Red. I like it1
Looks better than primer 👍🤠
Funny you mentioned you lost your code reader! I lost one of mine a few months back. Thinking I left it in a car I sold, it maybe under the driver seat! We always enjoy learning with you! (Your Canadian uncle from a bit north of you)
Years ago we would buy a gallon of tractor paint at the hardware store and thin the paint with gasoline till it looked thin enough then paint a car or whatever using a gravity feed paint gun . Paint it two or three coats and call it good.
I think this is good practice for later . The rattle cans are cheaper / easier . But the actual mixing & using a paint gun gives you more control over the color & a better finished product . Just loads more work , cleaning , mixing , spraying , cleaning , repeat . I think it will look great in red . When you find the right red you like , I would cover the interior good with some 4 mil plastic & taped off . Then let r rip , go to town , do your thing . Everything is expensive now .
Drivers side color looks good!