Thanks for the jewels. I’m having the hardest time running a 3k Tara amp in a 04 avalanche. Hell I’ve spent more money on shit to make it play then the actual equipment I’m using
I have a smart 3 bass running at 1ohm. 240 amp autotech alternator and 150ah of agm... I barely ever drop into the 12s... alternator really makes a difference if you get one that does rated amperage output
I found 1000F Caps work surprisingly well with agm. Even old ones! They wear down on a long commute but they seem to like the the steady demand on stable high voltage
I just ordered my autotech alternator and big 3 upgrade for my 2012 silverado. What battery or batteries do you recommend me to use. I'm only using about a 3500 watt amp
Yes and I believe you're correct I completely agree with what you're saying lithium first I'm actually running a DNR 15 your professional you already know the wattage of that with the SKV2-4500.1d stock alternator on a 2009 Toyota Corolla I do plan on doing the alternator but I believe you should do the lithium first it definitely helps I don't even get dimming of the lights at all
Hey Jerry , I just wanted to thank you for making this video. I only wish that I would have seen it a week ago before I bought an Optima Red top for my Suburban. Oh by the way my name is Jerry also and I’m definitely not loud yet because I just got the Burban and I’m still buying stuff for it. I have gotten a dual alternator bracket for it and the battery I mentioned. I plan on buying a Mechman Elite 400 amp alternator and now I’m thinking about just running two completely separate electric systems. One using the factory alternator and the Optima Red top for the Suburban and the other one using the Mechman 400 and I guess I’m just going to have to go all in and get some lithium batteries to power the stereo system since watching this video. My main question is this , do I need a special type of charger for the lithium batteries or can I just run them like a normal battery straight to the alternator ? I’ve seen various opinions about this and I definitely don’t want to burn anything up especially since I just lost my home in a fire in January. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Sincerely , Jerry’s trying to get loud !!!!!
Would you recommend changing the stock lead-acid battery under the hood or just add a lithium LTO in the back? Can these batteries work together? I just bought a 2024 Tacoma so everything is brand new.
The c ratings on the AGMs suck thats why even with all the alt power you still drop in voltage because they are like 1-2c recharge at most. so 400ah of agm you have 400-800 amp recharge potential. Lithium have higher C ratings headways are like 5-8c
Question - i have 3 taramps … the 800.x4 …hd3000 … and md8000 2 ohm version … can anybody tell me how many amp hours I’ll need all together from agm or lithium … my alternator is 240 amps
Hi sir, quick question- I’m thinking about making that jump, my question is when you’re sitting off at home as want to charge the lithium what do you use from wall socket to battery?? How many ah needed for 5k rms 4channel included, with a 320 stinger big 3 and 1 run 0 gauge ofc…lmk, thanks. Very informative. On making my decision…..
I wish people gave daily driver examples 😂 I’m just trying to efficiently run 3 summo 12s on a 3k ampere. 😩 help. I’m not building a wall or anything too crazy.
I have a 100 amp stock alt on my 01 jimmy and have a little voltage drop So what I’m in the process of doing as we speak should be done tomorrow, but I removed my a c compressor because it overheats my truck when used 300k plus miles I removed compressor and I picked up a 110 amp alt on fb for 40 bucks new refurbished and I’m putting it where the compressor was on the 4.3 and I have a 1000 mah deep cycle battery that will be attached to that alt I plan on using the exciter wire in on the remote wire from the headunit on factory battery and the other wire to the deep cycle it’s a 3 wire but ya should be no issue now just gotta finish making bracket and shim it but basically I’ll now have 210 amps to work with
I got a 2014 chevy cruze with a stock voltage regulator and stock electrical with two svr 12s and a rp1500.1. It sounds good but I k ow it could be way louder. Any advice?
Ok this video helped me understand a lot better but I have a question i have a 2019 Toyota Camry LE and it has the new Onbus/Linbus electronics build which basically means that no matter what size alternator i put on the car the computer is only going to recognize it as a stock alternator and therefore only allow the alternator to charge the battery at the same rate as the stock alternator making it pointless to upgrade it those words came straight from both Mechman and J&S so they told me that my car would support 2-3000 watts rms no problem especially if i upgrade the under hood battery and add more in the back so as we all know bassheads aren't happy unless our cars are about to fall apart from the Bass so I want to upgrade to a dual solo x in the trunk probably walled off and the street series 7" in all four doors im only wanting to put a CXA 1800.1 on each solo x and another 1000 watts rms to the mids and highs so in total I will probably go over the recommended rms rating by 1500 maybe 2000 watts rms can i do this and still be able to play it for a good period of time without having to stop and recharge on the regular and if so how many lithium batteries do you think I would need in total from front to back any advice would be greatly appreciated i can change the setup a lot easier than I can change cars especially after spending thousands on rims tint etc.
I have a lead-acid battery upfront with my headway 48ah bank with a 270a js alt charging it. Is my front battery killing my voltage? Amp is only an Audiopipe APNK4000.1
, AGM's charging is based off Capacity and a 100ah Ho-agm charges faster than a 35ah headway bank. the science behind it -, Lithium is a CC/CV, when the charging voltage hits its max voltage - (eg 14.2v or 3.6v) the charge rate is self limited - , Lithium cells will be damaged if the charging voltage exceeds this limit, - you can charge at any-speed (like 100amps) when the chargers voltage hits MAX current slows down - , when a cell is at 3.4x or 3.5x - the charging rate is minimal - this generally is called its adsorption phase Nihm - uses a VV/CC, its FULL-resting voltage is around 1.4v -, but this battery type can be charged at a Constant current- all the way to 100%soc, - it continuously raises voltage to maintain CC, and it can go up to 5v- cell, (when you remove charger - voltage will drop to its resting voltage) (FYI nihm will not slow-down charging rate, when fast charged - a "Smart charger IC" watches the cell-voltage - looking for a small dip, to indicate a FULL charge , (the cell will also heat-up) this process can be done with PD- battery-types also -but has critical draw-backs , flooded-acid off-gassing voltage is around 15v - fast-charging requires adding Distilled water every so often, (note fast charging can "if done illresoponablely" cause minor damage- decreasing life-span ) while if you attempted to do this on Lithium (any type) it will Quickly- destroy -and possibly cause a thermal runaway-- a headway-cell can be discharged 100% in 4-minutes , it can be charged to 80% in 6minits , it takes 20+minits to achieve 100%soc .. this a common Fact to all lithium cells-types .. they are not quite good enough to be called supper-capacitor Replacement or alteritive, if voltage was your Key worrie, nihm charging - info/howto ruclips.net/video/_ROhH9EkhtU/видео.html lithium charging - info/howto ruclips.net/video/A6mKd5_-abk/видео.html
Quick question, if I have a stock battery but 400amp Alternator with an amp pulling about 3000 watts, I don’t reeeally need to upgrsde the stock battery, correct?
Jerry, I have a 1400 Watt amp and an 1800 Watts and a 2000 watts bass amp with a extra amg battery with a stock 180 alternator what do you suggest brother?
What would be your take on this subject but with the average street beaters that's running 500 watt 4 channel Amp and 1500 watt amp? Would a ho alternator still be necessary over an extra battery in the back?
Pretty much where I'm at with 2 different cars. Seeing minor voltage drops but I never sit around and play. I just daily drive and want to bump hard as I can while I go about my day. The more research I put in the more I feel like people like you and me can get away with a small bank or simple extra battery in the back. However... the bass bug bites and we always want more, so maybe it would be sensible to spend twice what a good battery costs, and just get a good alternator instead so that you are ready for potential future upgrades. I'm at best a novice in this stuff so take my information lightly
@@RandoManFPV lots of variables, some vehicles can do 2k watts worth of amps with little to no upgrades and some can't. If your running a class AB amp they are quite a bit less efficient over a class D . It also depends how you wire the subs, a big amp wired at 4 ohms will be more efficient and pull less amps than a small amp wired at 1 ohm, then you have the efficiency of the speakers a 90+db efficiency driver will take less power to get loud.
Ok so I have big 3 alternator, but I have a agm under the hood and lithium in the trunk,is this OK or would it be best to have both lithium.i run on 8k
all lithium for efficiency and for less "talk" between those two different types of batteries. I grew up with having an rc hobby and knew not to mix nimh batteries with lithium cell batteries and what jerry explains with agm vs lithium is basically the same thing in the rc world(tangent sorry)
I know this is an old thread but my question is kinda weird So if I have a 300 amp alternator say a 5000 watt rms amp say I needed 200 ah battery does that make a total of 500ah in all???? I’m baffled on that, I hope you see my silly equation, Basically I have a 320 amp alt I wanna run a 7k on two xl elites at 1 ohm, how much amp hours do I need? That’s only 4,400 rms on those subs eventually I wanna get 1 more but for now how many ah do I truly need? I was on 400ah but I saw as low as 100ah for 5k………….
What is all the peas and cons to lithium what is all the good and bad of lithium because it cannot be just all good I have seen a couple of lithium setups go up in flames can you elaborate on lithium a little bit more
it's mostly pros, tons more power in a way smaller foot print, it's just a lot stronger. recharge time is 50 times faster. meaning voltage will bounce back super fast compared to AGM.. cons. you need to understand what you're working with. do not try to jump start vehicles with lithium, a low lithium bank need to be charged back up slowly or it can cause cell damage or even fire. same applies to over charging. some cells (cmax) need steel compression.
I'm running front yellow top optima to Ultracap 31 to Down4Sound lithium to 3500 SKV2..no big 3. Stock alt. Wondering what's next more reserve and throw out small lithium??? 🤷♂️
I hear it does with distortion because higher voltage means that any distortion signals that may be transferred into your Rca's will be a lower percentage of the original signal. Other than that it's just a sales gimmick as far as I have researched the topic.
Absolutely .. I had an old pioneer head unit.. it done fine for my rockford amp.. 2v .. but my orion likes 4v . Most decks won't do rated and if they do its at full blast. I was seeing 1v or so.. switched to a 4v unit and use way less gain.. way better
You're probably good. You can search online for how many amps your alternator provides. I used to run a 900 watt monoblock on an early 90s Ranger with a 95 amp stock alternator, it did well after the big 3. I have a 1500 watt amp going on a 150a stock alternator on my daily and my voltage stays good even after hours of pounding. With impedance rise, amps rarely produce the power we wire for. The coil passing through the magnetic field of the motor generates a current that goes back up the speaker wires, the amp experiences it as resistance, the rims goes down as the resistance goes up and the power draw drops with it.
Yo I got a question I have the jp23 amp w 2 12in sundown audios @ 1 ohm 2000 watts all in stock alt and stock battery not lithium battery either and I’m clipping on my bass knob I can turn these up at all, you think I’m clipping because I need to upgrade my battery?
You are going to need a alternator just get a high output at least 250 amps and then get some batteries as well and you will be fine I had that clipping problem once I upgraded my alt all good!
I just recently ran my 7500.1 wolfram to .5 ohm on a 320HO ALT. With 80AH of YL at 3/4 full tilt I drop from 15.6 to 14.2 and my battery light comes on and says battery not charging until I turn it down.. You think my ALT is going or what is it?
I’ve got two 45ah limitless and a mechman 320A alt and my dodge won’t held voltage for anything. I’m literally drawing blanks because I charged at 15V when I first installed it, and now I’m just struggling! Any advice?
@@arok_audio I’ve tested both. The issue actually began the morning after I installed the alt, which was before the system was installed. I was told that dodge has really aggressive voltage regulation built into the ecu though.
Limitless shouldn't be charged over 14.8 .2 shouldn't hurt but they are 3.7v cells banked to twelve you can go to 4v each cell but over voltage will def destroy the cells. Your cars voltage regulator is prob the main problem though.
@@shaunjay6040 not 100% sure with my Acura there was a signal wire in the pig tail. You just need it to be externally regulated. Talk to mechman they should be able to help.
Thanks for the jewels. I’m having the hardest time running a 3k Tara amp in a 04 avalanche. Hell I’ve spent more money on shit to make it play then the actual equipment I’m using
Me to what did you do?
I have a smart 3 bass running at 1ohm. 240 amp autotech alternator and 150ah of agm... I barely ever drop into the 12s... alternator really makes a difference if you get one that does rated amperage output
Dang, same here. Clipping way too easy. Thinking about an ultra cap.
Thankyou for 😂 understanding!
Appreciate it man! You always come through
Dan does give out demo after demo for sure.
Very helpful vid and prob the best explanation ive heard so far! Think im going lithium when the time comes.
I found 1000F Caps work surprisingly well with agm. Even old ones!
They wear down on a long commute but they seem to like the the steady demand on stable high voltage
I have a 3400 AGM under the hood. A JP 23 amplifier. Will a 320 amp alternator keep it charged ok?
I just ordered my autotech alternator and big 3 upgrade for my 2012 silverado. What battery or batteries do you recommend me to use. I'm only using about a 3500 watt amp
Yes and I believe you're correct I completely agree with what you're saying lithium first I'm actually running a DNR 15 your professional you already know the wattage of that with the SKV2-4500.1d stock alternator on a 2009 Toyota Corolla I do plan on doing the alternator but I believe you should do the lithium first it definitely helps I don't even get dimming of the lights at all
Does it bang? Lol
Hell yeah! I'm running two Salt 8ks @ .7 ohm on a ces 250 and 96 ah plannano bank charging 15.3 volts and love it. Eventually I will add 48 ah more.
THANKS FOR GIVING UP THE GAME!
#JERRYAINTLOUD
#PATRIONTHIS😂
You have to have reserve but you also need a way to fill up the bucket...
Hey Jerry , I just wanted to thank you for making this video. I only wish that I would have seen it a week ago before I bought an Optima Red top for my Suburban. Oh by the way my name is Jerry also and I’m definitely not loud yet because I just got the Burban and I’m still buying stuff for it. I have gotten a dual alternator bracket for it and the battery I mentioned. I plan on buying a Mechman Elite 400 amp alternator and now I’m thinking about just running two completely separate electric systems. One using the factory alternator and the Optima Red top for the Suburban and the other one using the Mechman 400 and I guess I’m just going to have to go all in and get some lithium batteries to power the stereo system since watching this video. My main question is this , do I need a special type of charger for the lithium batteries or can I just run them like a normal battery straight to the alternator ? I’ve seen various opinions about this and I definitely don’t want to burn anything up especially since I just lost my home in a fire in January. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sincerely ,
Jerry’s trying to get loud !!!!!
Thanks for the videos jerry!
Dope intro ahhahahahahaha Who started that where they just throw their hands around to start the video 😅😅😅😅
Would you recommend changing the stock lead-acid battery under the hood or just add a lithium LTO in the back?
Can these batteries work together? I just bought a 2024 Tacoma so everything is brand new.
The c ratings on the AGMs suck thats why even with all the alt power you still drop in voltage because they are like 1-2c recharge at most. so 400ah of agm you have 400-800 amp recharge potential. Lithium have higher C ratings headways are like 5-8c
Those prismatic lto cells 30c constant and 75c burst are gg
Question - i have 3 taramps … the 800.x4 …hd3000 … and md8000 2 ohm version … can anybody tell me how many amp hours I’ll need all together from agm or lithium … my alternator is 240 amps
Hi sir, quick question- I’m thinking about making that jump, my question is when you’re sitting off at home as want to charge the lithium what do you use from wall socket to battery??
How many ah needed for 5k rms 4channel included, with a 320 stinger big 3 and 1 run 0 gauge ofc…lmk, thanks.
Very informative. On making my decision…..
I wish people gave daily driver examples 😂 I’m just trying to efficiently run 3 summo 12s on a 3k ampere. 😩 help. I’m not building a wall or anything too crazy.
I have a 100 amp stock alt on my 01 jimmy and have a little voltage drop So what I’m in the process of doing as we speak should be done tomorrow, but I removed my a c compressor because it overheats my truck when used 300k plus miles I removed compressor and I picked up a 110 amp alt on fb for 40 bucks new refurbished and I’m putting it where the compressor was on the 4.3 and I have a 1000 mah deep cycle battery that will be attached to that alt I plan on using the exciter wire in on the remote wire from the headunit on factory battery and the other wire to the deep cycle it’s a 3 wire but ya should be no issue now just gotta finish making bracket and shim it but basically I’ll now have 210 amps to work with
I'm running 12 banks of lishen lto on a single brand X billet 390 lithium is the only way For big power
I got a 2014 chevy cruze with a stock voltage regulator and stock electrical with two svr 12s and a rp1500.1. It sounds good but I k ow it could be way louder. Any advice?
This guy is very knowledge
Ok this video helped me understand a lot better but I have a question i have a 2019 Toyota Camry LE and it has the new Onbus/Linbus electronics build which basically means that no matter what size alternator i put on the car the computer is only going to recognize it as a stock alternator and therefore only allow the alternator to charge the battery at the same rate as the stock alternator making it pointless to upgrade it those words came straight from both Mechman and J&S so they told me that my car would support 2-3000 watts rms no problem especially if i upgrade the under hood battery and add more in the back so as we all know bassheads aren't happy unless our cars are about to fall apart from the Bass so I want to upgrade to a dual solo x in the trunk probably walled off and the street series 7" in all four doors im only wanting to put a CXA 1800.1 on each solo x and another 1000 watts rms to the mids and highs so in total I will probably go over the recommended rms rating by 1500 maybe 2000 watts rms can i do this and still be able to play it for a good period of time without having to stop and recharge on the regular and if so how many lithium batteries do you think I would need in total from front to back any advice would be greatly appreciated i can change the setup a lot easier than I can change cars especially after spending thousands on rims tint etc.
I have a lead-acid battery upfront with my headway 48ah bank with a 270a js alt charging it. Is my front battery killing my voltage? Amp is only an Audiopipe APNK4000.1
, AGM's charging is based off Capacity and a 100ah Ho-agm charges faster than a 35ah headway bank.
the science behind it -, Lithium is a CC/CV, when the charging voltage hits its max voltage - (eg 14.2v or 3.6v) the charge rate is self limited - , Lithium cells will be damaged if the charging voltage exceeds this limit, - you can charge at any-speed (like 100amps) when the chargers voltage hits MAX current slows down - , when a cell is at 3.4x or 3.5x - the charging rate is minimal - this generally is called its adsorption phase
Nihm - uses a VV/CC, its FULL-resting voltage is around 1.4v -, but this battery type can be charged at a Constant current- all the way to 100%soc, - it continuously raises voltage to maintain CC, and it can go up to 5v- cell, (when you remove charger - voltage will drop to its resting voltage) (FYI nihm will not slow-down charging rate, when fast charged - a "Smart charger IC" watches the cell-voltage - looking for a small dip, to indicate a FULL charge , (the cell will also heat-up)
this process can be done with PD- battery-types also -but has critical draw-backs , flooded-acid off-gassing voltage is around 15v - fast-charging requires adding Distilled water every so often, (note fast charging can "if done illresoponablely" cause minor damage- decreasing life-span )
while if you attempted to do this on Lithium (any type) it will Quickly- destroy -and possibly cause a thermal runaway--
a headway-cell can be discharged 100% in 4-minutes , it can be charged to 80% in 6minits , it takes 20+minits to achieve 100%soc .. this a common Fact to all lithium cells-types .. they are not quite good enough to be called supper-capacitor Replacement or alteritive, if voltage was your Key worrie,
nihm charging - info/howto
ruclips.net/video/_ROhH9EkhtU/видео.html
lithium charging - info/howto
ruclips.net/video/A6mKd5_-abk/видео.html
I’m running off the stock battery and alternator. I have the JP23 on 4 Polk MM1 12inch subs. My volts never drop below 13.8volts
You must not be running very much wattage
@@beardedforlife3740 I have the amp turned up roughly 80% of the way.
@@roach0728 what's are you ohms?
You got my like after Eskimo kitty
Would you agree that anything above 12.6 volts is good and safe?
Quick question, if I have a stock battery but 400amp Alternator with an amp pulling about 3000 watts, I don’t reeeally need to upgrsde the stock battery, correct?
How do lifepro lithium batteries work with vehicles electric I've heard lithium batteries kill alternators
Jerry, I have a 1400 Watt amp and an 1800 Watts and a 2000 watts bass amp with a extra amg battery with a stock 180 alternator what do you suggest brother?
What would be your take on this subject but with the average street beaters that's running 500 watt 4 channel Amp and 1500 watt amp? Would a ho alternator still be necessary over an extra battery in the back?
Pretty much where I'm at with 2 different cars. Seeing minor voltage drops but I never sit around and play. I just daily drive and want to bump hard as I can while I go about my day.
The more research I put in the more I feel like people like you and me can get away with a small bank or simple extra battery in the back.
However... the bass bug bites and we always want more, so maybe it would be sensible to spend twice what a good battery costs, and just get a good alternator instead so that you are ready for potential future upgrades.
I'm at best a novice in this stuff so take my information lightly
@@RandoManFPV lots of variables, some vehicles can do 2k watts worth of amps with little to no upgrades and some can't. If your running a class AB amp they are quite a bit less efficient over a class D . It also depends how you wire the subs, a big amp wired at 4 ohms will be more efficient and pull less amps than a small amp wired at 1 ohm, then you have the efficiency of the speakers a 90+db efficiency driver will take less power to get loud.
Ok so I have big 3 alternator, but I have a agm under the hood and lithium in the trunk,is this OK or would it be best to have both lithium.i run on 8k
all lithium for efficiency and for less "talk" between those two different types of batteries. I grew up with having an rc hobby and knew not to mix nimh batteries with lithium cell batteries and what jerry explains with agm vs lithium is basically the same thing in the rc world(tangent sorry)
You don’t want to put lithium under the hood
I know this is an old thread but my question is kinda weird
So if I have a 300 amp alternator say a 5000 watt rms amp say I needed 200 ah battery does that make a total of 500ah in all???? I’m baffled on that, I hope you see my silly equation,
Basically I have a 320 amp alt I wanna run a 7k on two xl elites at 1 ohm, how much amp hours do I need? That’s only 4,400 rms on those subs eventually I wanna get 1 more but for now how many ah do I truly need? I was on 400ah but I saw as low as 100ah for 5k………….
Can you make a video on sealed and ported and can a sealed do a hair trick?
Alternator power is the best If you can get a lot of it.
What amp would you run on a pair of sundown x 10s?
an 8k would be great for them
What you think about xs batteries
Lithium so dam expensive
What is all the peas and cons to lithium what is all the good and bad of lithium because it cannot be just all good I have seen a couple of lithium setups go up in flames can you elaborate on lithium a little bit more
it's mostly pros, tons more power in a way smaller foot print, it's just a lot stronger. recharge time is 50 times faster. meaning voltage will bounce back super fast compared to AGM.. cons. you need to understand what you're working with. do not try to jump start vehicles with lithium, a low lithium bank need to be charged back up slowly or it can cause cell damage or even fire. same applies to over charging. some cells (cmax) need steel compression.
Wat you know about running big banks of super caps ami likes them more than lithium.
What about some of us that run headways with the agms? Should we almost take the agms out and just run straight headways? The 38120hp?
the AGMS will pull the voltage on the headways down. If you can afford to get enough headway to do a full delete thats the best way.
i took my AGM out when I put headways in
How much ah of headways would you recommend for a md8k?
@@JerryAintloud, when you’re just daily driving, how often did you recharge your lithium?
Can you give some recommendations on lithium batteries where to get them what kind and also the cmax where to get and all that?..👍🤘✌
You can make your own
On down4sound they got lithium cells
I'm running front yellow top optima to Ultracap 31 to Down4Sound lithium to 3500 SKV2..no big 3. Stock alt. Wondering what's next more reserve and throw out small lithium??? 🤷♂️
Don’t mix chemistries!
@@jman4573 explain please. These batteries are claimed to have been made to mix with the others
Got a question ,does higher head unit pre out voltage really matter?
Depending on the amp, yes. Full bridge HATES high volt. There’s no room to tune your amp before clipping
I hear it does with distortion because higher voltage means that any distortion signals that may be transferred into your Rca's will be a lower percentage of the original signal. Other than that it's just a sales gimmick as far as I have researched the topic.
Absolutely .. I had an old pioneer head unit.. it done fine for my rockford amp.. 2v .. but my orion likes 4v . Most decks won't do rated and if they do its at full blast. I was seeing 1v or so.. switched to a 4v unit and use way less gain.. way better
You went straight to lithium you skipped right by the XS batteries AGM those are good bad results also not just lithium
I have a stock alternator and all I wanna run is 2 12s with a 1600w amp. I have ran all my wires and added a small battery. Is this good enough?
your good 3k is when to start upgrading electrical. always do big 3 tho
You're probably good. You can search online for how many amps your alternator provides. I used to run a 900 watt monoblock on an early 90s Ranger with a 95 amp stock alternator, it did well after the big 3. I have a 1500 watt amp going on a 150a stock alternator on my daily and my voltage stays good even after hours of pounding. With impedance rise, amps rarely produce the power we wire for. The coil passing through the magnetic field of the motor generates a current that goes back up the speaker wires, the amp experiences it as resistance, the rims goes down as the resistance goes up and the power draw drops with it.
Yo I got a question I have the jp23 amp w 2 12in sundown audios @ 1 ohm 2000 watts all in stock alt and stock battery not lithium battery either and I’m clipping on my bass knob I can turn these up at all, you think I’m clipping because I need to upgrade my battery?
Is your gain set properly?
You are going to need a alternator just get a high output at least 250 amps and then get some batteries as well and you will be fine I had that clipping problem once I upgraded my alt all good!
I just recently ran my 7500.1 wolfram to .5 ohm on a 320HO ALT. With 80AH of YL at 3/4 full tilt I drop from 15.6 to 14.2 and my battery light comes on and says battery not charging until I turn it down..
You think my ALT is going or what is it?
i'd have it tested
So u can run lithium on a stock alt?
yes it works
@@JerryAintloud it won’t ruin my stock one? and will the lithium charge up fast still ?
😉
I’ve got two 45ah limitless and a mechman 320A alt and my dodge won’t held voltage for anything. I’m literally drawing blanks because I charged at 15V when I first installed it, and now I’m just struggling! Any advice?
Sounds like grounds are bad, tried cleaning em up or confirm an impedance test?
@@arok_audio I’ve tested both. The issue actually began the morning after I installed the alt, which was before the system was installed. I was told that dodge has really aggressive voltage regulation built into the ecu though.
Limitless shouldn't be charged over 14.8 .2 shouldn't hurt but they are 3.7v cells banked to twelve you can go to 4v each cell but over voltage will def destroy the cells. Your cars voltage regulator is prob the main problem though.
@@davidfarmer2521 any suggestions on how to get around it? Is it possible to have it updated like they do with transmission tunes?
@@shaunjay6040 not 100% sure with my Acura there was a signal wire in the pig tail. You just need it to be externally regulated. Talk to mechman they should be able to help.
Taramps procharger
Anybody ever put several lithium drill batteries together? Lol jw
I have a XS power d3100 for my Skar 3400.1. What would be a better battery?