For your question about the voltage... Alternator ratings are similar to amp MAX ratings, meaning your alternator has the ability to put out 320 amps for a short period of time when needed. Check the spec sheet if it has one or contact the company and ask them at what rpms your alternator is spec'd at.. I have seen some as high as 6000+ rpms before they even come close to putting out the rated amperage. Either way it's still a nice upgrade and will definitely help you out in the long run. Good job bro
WITH OUT SUPPORT BATTS 6000+ RPMS MEANS NOTHING WTH YOU TALKING ABOUT HERE :D LOL IT IS ALL ABOUT AMPS FROM THE ALT TO THE BATTS TO RETURN THE POWER SUPPLY THAT IS IT.............
@@________GHOST________ I know exactly what the hell I'm talking bout boy. OG alts is trashhhhhh point blank period. I have lithium so I have plenty enough batteries. So before u pop of at the mouth know what the hell u talking bout
Very informative video, Parker. Keep them coming bro. These tutorials are extremely useful to a guy like me and thanks for taking the time to put them out! Enjoy your weekend bro.....
Should've went with Autotech Alternators, amazing company and products, I got a 270 amp alternator from them for $290 including the powder coating, works great with 2 full throttle batteries and a big 3 upgrade on an ampere audio 3800.1, overall great video as always.
I've been looking snd doing the research on auto tech. There in riverside, I think om gonna drive down 40 miles to get 1 and save shipping cost. I hear good things about them. I'm looking at the 320 amp autotech. Plug and play
@@SheeenBean you know? I decided not to get the alt.. I got rid of my subs and put in airlift air suspension. No room in the trunk anymore.. but I'm happy with it..
I’m glad I watched this video, CES is the exact place I was looking for. This place actually sells the stator for half the cost if you are DIYer and can do it yourself . The stator is the part that they modify from series to parallel or vice versa to convert it from 160 amps to 320 amps depending on your alternator . I am ordering my parts from from CES
My 01 durango controls voltage thru the ecm..i use an external voltage regulator that adjustable along with my 250 amp alt..and to get output you need be about 2000 rpm.
You need an external voltage regulator. Your cars voltage is regulated by the PCM, thats why your voltage prior to music is the same. In my mazda, same thing happened when i get a singer alternator. My car would be at 14.2 cold start and drop into 13.7 13.8 range idle at warm. I hit him up and he gave me a voltage regulator for free, i just had to pay shipping. Installed that and ive never seen less than 14.1 since. Usually stays between 14.1-14.5
Also helps for higher current rated amps like vfl and sundown.if you runnin a tara bandage or other Brazilian witchery 14.2 to 4 is it period watch boom lose finals cuz of blown fuses and a lil extra gain on tara.we was sick cuz he had that champ win no doubt but dont matter how loud you are if you smokin chokin burnin or learnin if he playin and you ain't on sunday call momma teller you headin home lol.cuz it's over Johnny
First off, great job on upgrading you're electrical system. You didn't say much about how many RPM's you were running during you're "tests" aside from when you were talking about driving down the road. I've had 3 different CES alts and I was very happy with them all for the price.
Hi Parker, I have years of experience in automotive repair. Your alternator is a beast. It is regulated to around 14 volts. Some upgraded electrical systems run at 16 volts. That is safely reached by upgrading the components in that system to run on 16v. Chrysler vehicles are sort of notorious for being picky about the voltage. If it is not in specific range it can cause issues, weird ones too. Have you done the big 3 yet? That will improve charging performance.
Thanks man! Yes I have done the big 3. And yes amperage definitely seems a lot better. A lot of people have mentioned that Chrysler’s voltage is regulated by the pcm so that totally makes since now. And yes I’ve heard that raising voltage can cause problems so I’ll just leave it the way it is for now. Should be good enough
The voltage is done by the regulator and they try to keep it as close to stock as possible due to liability of the electronics that are made by your vehicles manufacturer are made to run in that voltage range . They do make external regulators that are adjustable look around they sell conversion kits
Great alt new batteries needed i replaced mine with a 50$ walmart battery under the hood 600 cca required batt is 750 cca and in the back a 88$ 200 amps @ 20hour marine /RV deep cell huge difference and money saved waiting to eventually get 6 super cell capacitors it will literally lock your voltage on the high end
Man. That battery is weak.. If you read your sheet it says battery resting voltage... If resting is higher so will your playing voltage.. Grab a gorilla lithium. You'll see huge diff then and only cost about 500 more bucks..🤙 Great videos man..
@@BigCow392 Currently unsure, I have an issue with one of my computers, I think its the HVAC/Ambient Light/ something box in my 2013 Ford Edge Limited. I know how it happened; my main powerlines were disconnected while working on the car and a buddy brought over a DSP I sold him and said it didn't work. It did, but I figured Id hook it up and show him it did indeed power on. I noticed I didn't get power...... So, I'm thinking its the remote turn-on, I was doing work on a custom soft turn on circuit using an ESp32. .... I jump the remote to power........ The ONLY switched power line in the car going anywhere near the head unit. Oh yeah, I think that box also has something to do with the chip in the key. Car runs and drives, charges but system is off until I can get the computer swapped. The TLDR is that I powered up my amps with the remote wire, music wasn't on but just the initial draw was way more than the remote could handle. No it wasn't on purpose. I think I know which computer it smoked, kind of a PITA to find because it only came in the Limited Edition with the extra connectors (The HVAC computer, because of the ambient lighting) Currently, its not a priority, not for another month or so, when the weather blows in Michigan, then it will be. but until then I need to stay focused on a few other things. I'll report back once its back up and going
External regulator plug is a very easy upgrade on the alternator. CES on Facebook has a detailed description on how to do it with a diode to help excite the alternator. I put a socket on mine and use external regulator so I can control my voltage from 14 to 16v with lithium 45ah bank. Hopefully this helps. I went through all beginner stuff to now.
Parker Dacchille the external regulator bypass your pcm so u can charge higher. The socket allows you to hook up external regulator. CES sells both for $45 each. Just depends on your goals. If you are going to stick with agm I would get external regulator. But if you plan to go to lithium I would get the socket and external regulator blue box. Just depends on what you want to do.
Couple questions for you boss...... First is how is the alt doing now???? I just paid 400 for my 320 amp alt from ces asked for it to charge at 15.3 volts since im running cmaxx but are they worth the money???? Second question is did you ever figure out where your alt puts out its power from ces? Like what rpm? Hopefully 2k or below or ill need to cancel my order
Yeah. Was wondering if you disconnected your back bat as well. Any plans for a voltage regulator and would one be used or needed in this setup or in the future? [Edit] I totally forgot about the double up on the twelves. Got all hype again.
You're not really straining the system stock vs CES with that amplifier. The CES will help but in only very tiny increments. On a side note I would change those battery terminals ASAP! I had the same ones and after I installed them I wasn't happy with the fit. Plus they are cheap. I took them off a few days later and gave them to my scrap guy. ill customz has some beautiful ones that I been eyeing up. I'm not sure if I want to get the bolt down kind or the screw in kind.
Very nice alternator, Parker. That will help a lot when you get a couple more upgrades. You definitely need an external voltage regulator. Right now, your cars computer is controlling voltage. A few companies like mechman, and I assume CES make an external regulator, so you can set the voltage wherever you want. I personally set mine at 15 volts cold, and it drops to about 14.6 once it gets hot. Also, it's definitely time for you to add some 1/0 or even 2/0 pure copper wire for your main power run. Moving 300 amps from the front to the back is a long run, and that CCA wire can't possibly keep up with the increased amps you are now generating. I'm positive you are seeing high temperatures and voltage drop because of the wire. It's time to upgrade to the pure copper wire, my friend. It will help keep everything cool, safe, and you will always see max voltage to your rear battery. Even the short run from the alternator to the front battery would benefit moving to a nice 2/0 pure copper.
@@ParkerTheBasshead Great to hear the wire upgrade is coming! Check out mechman for that external regulator. It's just a small wire harness that goes in between your alternator and the factory harness for the car. Really simple to install and use, and you can set the voltage wherever you want. I think it's cheap as well.
Aw man. Lol..i know when i added my 1st 2nd battery the system was loud as hell after that. Would hurt my ears. I was like just from a extra battery🤣 i figured since it keeps your voltage up you'd have an Increase in wattage and loudness
@@chadwems if he metered it it would show a slight increase. Maybe not enough to hear. But if he keeps upgrading and then he put it back to the way it was he could tell.
the same spec can be found in an alternative alternator if you can find the model you want from mechman guys "its a VELEO 11358" unit that comes stock in bmw e70 e.t.c or the bigger unit that comes in the M50d the small unit does 230amp idle and 370 at rev haven't tested the big unit's peak new equipment need to be built for that seems like over 400 amps (make my load catch fire) these unit are used in other German cars to with all different types of mounts keep in mind the oem BMW version uses LIN bus for control (BMW x5 alternators are cheap & everywhere !) not E53 versions ! must be newer e70 & onwards
Goin on 2 yrs with my ces 320 alt and in an everyday vehicle clamping 3400 watts at times.The demand voltage from some cars at idle are usually lower with based on fuel and ignition system but some guys vehicles will actually ramp up when stereo is playing and their voltage in turn will be stronger then not playing their stereo at all,givin theyve got a lot battery reserve
Should be able to put a resistor or diode inline an be able to keep ur v up...i use a resistor inline an i see 14.8 14.9 on cold startup an 14.4 at idle....reallllllly hot days it will idle at 13.9 on factory alt......good luck
Do you have any idea where to find a high output alternator for a Subaru with the fb25 engine? 2011+ forester 2014+ legacy 2014+ outback. I have a 2013 forester and for the life of me can not find a HO alt.
Parker its your pcms voltage regulator i didnt see you install an external unit.but dodge is controlled by the ecu or pcm.it sticks at 13.8 to 14.1 or 2.get an external unit set it to 15 15.3 also your amps current draw is whats important.you need to be able to feed that many amps fairly consistently.and if you got it running at 1 ohm or lower ima tell you from experience that amp is about 70% efficient on a solid ampere load drop below that it gets dirty real quick.so think of it like this you got a car that does 6 seconds in a 1/4 mile but you can only hold 1/8th of a tank.its a start but you cant leave the house youll run outta fuel.so your best bet is to externally reg the alt to increase the volts there for increasing charge time and amperes.there like 60$ trust me youll thank me at 13.8 volts that amp is at best 70% efficent imagine 12.5 thats 10% for every half volt.see what im saying itll sound better hit harder and the subs will thank you for it.bet 20 you play them full tilt for 5minutes them coils gonna get pretty hot from the dirty power.any my point is the factory reg doesnt charge more than 14 to 14.3 on dodge and jeep.actually i think its pose to be 13.8 i think is standard discharge rate for that int regulator and if im correct it has a 2:1 brushless actuator system.
No matter what you will have a voltage drop from the current draw the goal is to get that num no less than .5 to 1 volts from the amps current draw at what ever the amps voltage rating is at its given rms load even if you have solid play over long periods of time.no l less than 1 volt drop.but hey im just answer the voltage question and passing on my ase certification electrical engineering knowledge on to you bro.your cool and your videos are all right.they dont even know that you me and the people who watch you.are seeing something special we are growing with you as you you learn it started with one look at you now with 2 and a solid set up you'll do 4 next and when you do ill be there to say i told you sooooo.🤣🤣🤣👊👊
@@migascustomsounds3054 heres the whole shabang if your alt charges at 13.8 flat but your amp is rated at 14.4 your already at a disadvantage out the box
Hey Parker I have the skar 2000.1 amp with 2500 watt 12s in a vw with stock alternator. Big 3 done. Rpms jump with beat, what size alternator should I purchase any ideas why they jump also?
I’m just want to know what brand your alternators and where you buy from I have 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser when I turn up my sub amp the voltage is dropped down to 12v from 13.8 please let me know thanks you
My CES small case 320amp when I rev it to 1000 rpm stays in the 14s and I got 4 American bass xfl 12s on a taramp md8k and I love it cause when I'm not basting my music its sits right at about 14 but when I crank it up it'll stay there
TheBarrioslbc no bro you don’t have to cut them you just tell the maker the original belt size and hey can send you a link to a belt I just went thru this with mike singer
I use a Ebay 220amp alternator on my truck...6 months no issues.. Actually clamps around 180amp... for the price I can't complain..cheaper than a stock replacement
Chris O'Connor right now I have the two NKOs on the AudioPipe AQX3000.1. I have Skar speakers, CT sounds super tweeters, and an alpine mini amp I will probably be installing in the next video. After that I have some new AGMs I’ll be installing and then will be upgrading wire/amp/and subs. It’s going to be insane!
Kyle Scarberry I think all the newer cars are. I have a 15 hyundai elantra gt. And I get around 12.7 idle. But if I turn the head lights on at idle it goes to 14.2. These newer cars crazy. So i just drive with the head light on.
Redo your grounds with crimped 2/0 or 1/0 welding with 5/16” or 3/8” silver tinned copper ring terminals! Also use some 4 spot aluminum or copper battery distro on your batt positive and negative ( ring term or set screw) for big 3 and runs back to amps. Bad crimps or solder joints can wreak havoc on otherwise strong electrical
Nice! I was thinking about getting a Mechman alternator myself. I haven't got a read on my voltage yet but, I'm sure the 1,000 watt amp I got hooked up is putting a lot of stress on my stock electrical system.
1,000? not really. only need to upgrade alt beyond 1,500 rms watts imo. i'm finally upgrading my alt for my Taramps Bass 8K but then again my stock alt is 150a because my Ford Edge is naturally power hungry.
Hmmmm actually it depends on the amp and its efficiency at its givin ohm rating.cheaper amps draw more juice do to there inefficiency.also to big a list to go through but cabin and enclosure pressure along with tuning and enclosure effi ency and sub ohm rating plays a massive part as well also your 120 amp alt 370 9000 watever you got is only putting out and I'll be generous here 65 to 70% of its givin output rating unless your running it as a sepreate setup and the you have wat we call crankdrag ie the alt doesnt spin at the rpm it use to do to increase stress on the pulley system and horsepower loss so ie if your rpms drop when your bang bangs your your car lunges or everything dims not just the head lights.time for upgrades and lithiums can not.be ran with agm or lead acid.if you chose a small agm wich will work just fine for a 1k at 60% efficiency at 1ohm just make sure if the agm is bigger than your starter batt run an isolator or you gonna be pissed when you late for work belive me.
You should definitely switch to lithium man. It saves so much weight and money over AGM. Just make sure you delete all AGM out of the system if you do that. Also sometimes the car regulates the voltage/amperage instead of the alt. I had to swap the internal regulator out on my CES alt and get a harness with a diode wired into it, and had to not use my factory harness, because the wires went directly into the cars regulator, of course I have a battery light now because it just bypasses all of that. You can check with Mike Singer at Singer alternators and see if he can get you one made up if you're interested. Mine was 13.8V stock, but now it will charge at 14.8V and actually put out 250A when clamped. Make sure you get a clamp meter that does DC and AC measuring for amperage. DC from alt to the battery for the real world charging amperage, and AC for clamping your speaker wires so you can see how much power your subs are seeing. Looking good so far man.
Nice addition yep external voltage regulator will get you the results your looking for ,I wouldn't set at 15 though like a lot of viewers are suggesting that could damage your electrical over time But I new it you've got the SICKNESS there's NO turning back now lol Bass bug has bitten you my friend MORE MORE MORE lol Happy for you bro that system is turning into a MONSTER Bass machine and I love watching it grow 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Hey, I have the same alt. You need to get an external regulator to charge higher. I recommend bluebox. Also you need to charge your batteries, on that spec sheet it tells you your batteries should be charged around 12.8. Also you need to get more reserve. The alt can only do so much if there is not enough reserve.
Congrets on getting this very important car part awesome . Now for the bad news 3000 watts rms is all you are getting there. Now if you want more amps a 2nd alt needs to be there with 6 support batts is needed to complete the power supply cycle. Now 3 supports batts you can get right now to complete the 3000 amps of power.
You're voltage should remain the same because you don't want to overload the electrical system in your car. Your battery should always show 12V when the car isn't started. You should never want more than 14.4 Volts while running because that could damage you're electrical system over time. The one thing that the High amp alt should be doing which it looks like it does is maintain the voltage better and give an increase in charging amperage.
@@ParkerTheBasshead You can definitely get higher voltage out of that alternator. Right now, your ECU is controlling the voltage regulator of the alternator. There are a couple of tricks you can do to fool the ECU into increasing the voltage, or you can get an adjustable voltage regulator. I know mechman makes an adjustable regulator, or better yet, talk to CES about what they offer as far as adjustable regulators or ways to up the voltage. With good agm batteries, you can sit comfortably at 14.8 to 15 volts. Also, I think it's time to ditch the CCA wire you have running to the back of the car for some 2/0 pure copper wire. You can get decent 2/0 welding wire locally from a place like Airgas for pretty cheap, or order from your favorite online vendor. It will make a big difference now that you are moving around 300+ amps of current to the back of the car. The CCA is definitely overwhelmed trying to move that much current around. I bet you are seeing voltage drop at the rear battery, and it's definitely gonna get hot, which will only increase voltage drop to the back.
PARKER WHEN YOU SAID YOUR PULLEY BELT IS SMALLER YOU HAVE TO CHANGE YOUR BELT TO A SHORTER SIZE IF YOU PUT THE SAME BELT IT WONT DO YOU ANY GOOD.. MEASURE THE STOCK PULLEY WHEEL THEN THE SMALLER ONE AND DEDUCT THAT FROM ORIGINAL BELT SIZE AND GET THAT CORRECT BELT WHICH WOULD BE SMALLER SO THE HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR RUNS HOW IT SHOULD!
Yeah I would have recommended CES when Jonathan Patrick was working there and he personally built the alts but since him getting denied the payment he deserved and then fired by the owners WIFE I honestly would not buy anything from them so by me telling you about my alt it is not about the company CES it is about the man who built it which was Jonathan Patrick lol but I had msg'd him on Facebook inquiring about an alt for my 08 Lincoln mkx as I had found some company on ebay claiming to have a 300amp alt for around $289 well turns out that company was a joke and he ships out used junkyard alts that're OEM spec'd claiming them to be 300amp alts lol but to my surprise Jonathan Patrick offered to build me a true 300amp alt for the same price, so I paypal'd him the money at 6pm that day and the alt was on my doorstep the following morning and he had emailed me a vid testing it and my 300a does over 200a at idle and I have two SKAR SK3500'S strapped at 1ohm each with an XS power D3400 under hood and a d3100 out back and I literally have zero voltage drop while driving even at full tilt... your voltage is regulated internally by your vehicles computer so adding more amperage is not going to net you a higher voltage but you can buy an external regulator and turn it up so the alt puts out 16v if you wanted to! Lol
Here's a link to a external voltage regulator that a lot of people are telling you to get it happens to be for dodge Chrysler vehicles. I assume this will give you 14.4 or even 14.6 at Idle ruclips.net/video/utXjxwPAcHk/видео.html
For your question about the voltage... Alternator ratings are similar to amp MAX ratings, meaning your alternator has the ability to put out 320 amps for a short period of time when needed. Check the spec sheet if it has one or contact the company and ask them at what rpms your alternator is spec'd at.. I have seen some as high as 6000+ rpms before they even come close to putting out the rated amperage. Either way it's still a nice upgrade and will definitely help you out in the long run. Good job bro
That's how my Ohio Generator alt was. At 1600 rpms it was doing 2 amps. At 6k it was doing 295 and that'll blow up your engine. I switch to Brand X.
Spec's should say 320 amps at 2000 rpm
Throw a clamp meter on it and see
Alternators also have a hot and cold rating.
WITH OUT SUPPORT BATTS 6000+ RPMS MEANS NOTHING WTH YOU TALKING ABOUT HERE :D LOL IT IS ALL ABOUT AMPS FROM THE ALT TO THE BATTS TO RETURN THE POWER SUPPLY THAT IS IT.............
@@________GHOST________ I know exactly what the hell I'm talking bout boy. OG alts is trashhhhhh point blank period. I have lithium so I have plenty enough batteries. So before u pop of at the mouth know what the hell u talking bout
Nice. U need to be driving to see higher voltage. Ur parked so the alternator is at idle speed. Some are more efficient than others at idle.
Very informative video, Parker. Keep them coming bro. These tutorials are extremely useful to a guy like me and thanks for taking the time to put them out! Enjoy your weekend bro.....
Thanks man! Glad you found it informative
Amperage can increase but voltage is regulated by the car( in most cases)! In order to get higher voltage you need an external regulator
Depends how you wire the batteries
Should've went with Autotech Alternators, amazing company and products, I got a 270 amp alternator from them for $290 including the powder coating, works great with 2 full throttle batteries and a big 3 upgrade on an ampere audio 3800.1, overall great video as always.
Clint Hernandez ey man, how’s it holding on ? You have a video of it?
Im debating if i should go with autotech or another one.
I've been looking snd doing the research on auto tech. There in riverside, I think om gonna drive down 40 miles to get 1 and save shipping cost. I hear good things about them. I'm looking at the 320 amp autotech. Plug and play
@@TheBarrios69 any luck with it?
@@SheeenBean you know? I decided not to get the alt.. I got rid of my subs and put in airlift air suspension. No room in the trunk anymore.. but I'm happy with it..
@@TheBarrios69 noooo,.........your not allowed. Once a bass head, always a bass head 👍
I’m glad I watched this video, CES is the exact place I was looking for. This place actually sells the stator for half the cost if you are DIYer and can do it yourself . The stator is the part that they modify from series to parallel or vice versa to convert it from 160 amps to 320 amps depending on your alternator . I am ordering my parts from from CES
My 01 durango controls voltage thru the ecm..i use an external voltage regulator that adjustable along with my 250 amp alt..and to get output you need be about 2000 rpm.
You need an external voltage regulator. Your cars voltage is regulated by the PCM, thats why your voltage prior to music is the same. In my mazda, same thing happened when i get a singer alternator. My car would be at 14.2 cold start and drop into 13.7 13.8 range idle at warm. I hit him up and he gave me a voltage regulator for free, i just had to pay shipping. Installed that and ive never seen less than 14.1 since. Usually stays between 14.1-14.5
Also helps for higher current rated amps like vfl and sundown.if you runnin a tara bandage or other Brazilian witchery 14.2 to 4 is it period watch boom lose finals cuz of blown fuses and a lil extra gain on tara.we was sick cuz he had that champ win no doubt but dont matter how loud you are if you smokin chokin burnin or learnin if he playin and you ain't on sunday call momma teller you headin home lol.cuz it's over Johnny
First off, great job on upgrading you're electrical system. You didn't say much about how many RPM's you were running during you're "tests" aside from when you were talking about driving down the road. I've had 3 different CES alts and I was very happy with them all for the price.
It idles at about 600 rms and that is where I was testing it at. Of course it performs a lot better while running at cruising speed tho
@@ParkerTheBasshead when you compete set the cruise control you cant rev the vehicle if your inside so rules get you every time
Hi Parker, I have years of experience in automotive repair. Your alternator is a beast. It is regulated to around 14 volts. Some upgraded electrical systems run at 16 volts. That is safely reached by upgrading the components in that system to run on 16v. Chrysler vehicles are sort of notorious for being picky about the voltage. If it is not in specific range it can cause issues, weird ones too. Have you done the big 3 yet? That will improve charging performance.
Thanks man! Yes I have done the big 3. And yes amperage definitely seems a lot better. A lot of people have mentioned that Chrysler’s voltage is regulated by the pcm so that totally makes since now. And yes I’ve heard that raising voltage can cause problems so I’ll just leave it the way it is for now. Should be good enough
I have a 2020 Chrysler 300 and installed a mechman 320 and it's worse then my stock drops way below 12 v not sure what the issues are
@@rudygriego3652 I drive a Ford F150 2015 and got a 320 alt installed. It keeps the voltage right at 14.4 and only drops maybe to 13.8 at the lowest.
The voltage is done by the regulator and they try to keep it as close to stock as possible due to liability of the electronics that are made by your vehicles manufacturer are made to run in that voltage range . They do make external regulators that are adjustable look around they sell conversion kits
You need the external regulator.. its still stronger and normal..theres a few trick u can do to raise the voltage.. look at a transpo 911-02r
Good luck on that because the computer on the cars trucks/suv's has a set voltage point. Any voltage higher will burn up the computer :D LOL
Great alt new batteries needed i replaced mine with a 50$ walmart battery under the hood 600 cca required batt is 750 cca and in the back a 88$ 200 amps @ 20hour marine /RV deep cell huge difference and money saved waiting to eventually get 6 super cell capacitors it will literally lock your voltage on the high end
Man. That battery is weak.. If you read your sheet it says battery resting voltage... If resting is higher so will your playing voltage.. Grab a gorilla lithium. You'll see huge diff then and only cost about 500 more bucks..🤙
Great videos man..
I went with JS Alts, couldn't be happier. Awesome support, I got one of the lower models and my voltage doesn't drop with a DR 2000.1 and Skar 1200.1
How is it holding up?
How is it holding up
@@BigCow392 Currently unsure, I have an issue with one of my computers, I think its the HVAC/Ambient Light/ something box in my 2013 Ford Edge Limited. I know how it happened; my main powerlines were disconnected while working on the car and a buddy brought over a DSP I sold him and said it didn't work. It did, but I figured Id hook it up and show him it did indeed power on. I noticed I didn't get power...... So, I'm thinking its the remote turn-on, I was doing work on a custom soft turn on circuit using an ESp32. .... I jump the remote to power........ The ONLY switched power line in the car going anywhere near the head unit. Oh yeah, I think that box also has something to do with the chip in the key. Car runs and drives, charges but system is off until I can get the computer swapped.
The TLDR is that I powered up my amps with the remote wire, music wasn't on but just the initial draw was way more than the remote could handle. No it wasn't on purpose. I think I know which computer it smoked, kind of a PITA to find because it only came in the Limited Edition with the extra connectors (The HVAC computer, because of the ambient lighting)
Currently, its not a priority, not for another month or so, when the weather blows in Michigan, then it will be. but until then I need to stay focused on a few other things.
I'll report back once its back up and going
External regulator plug is a very easy upgrade on the alternator. CES on Facebook has a detailed description on how to do it with a diode to help excite the alternator. I put a socket on mine and use external regulator so I can control my voltage from 14 to 16v with lithium 45ah bank. Hopefully this helps. I went through all beginner stuff to now.
It definitely does help thanks so much!
Parker Dacchille facebook.com/marketplace/shops/item/2626976900679726/?referral_story_type=shop_pdp_share_deep_link&referral_code=shops_pdp_share
Parker Dacchille the external regulator bypass your pcm so u can charge higher. The socket allows you to hook up external regulator. CES sells both for $45 each. Just depends on your goals. If you are going to stick with agm I would get external regulator. But if you plan to go to lithium I would get the socket and external regulator blue box. Just depends on what you want to do.
Couple questions for you boss...... First is how is the alt doing now???? I just paid 400 for my 320 amp alt from ces asked for it to charge at 15.3 volts since im running cmaxx but are they worth the money???? Second question is did you ever figure out where your alt puts out its power from ces? Like what rpm? Hopefully 2k or below or ill need to cancel my order
NICE VID bro! NEW UPGRADES!!!
Yeah. Was wondering if you disconnected your back bat as well. Any plans for a voltage regulator and would one be used or needed in this setup or in the future?
[Edit] I totally forgot about the double up on the twelves. Got all hype again.
I may get a regular if I feeling I need it
You're not really straining the system stock vs CES with that amplifier. The CES will help but in only very tiny increments.
On a side note I would change those battery terminals ASAP! I had the same ones and after I installed them I wasn't happy with the fit. Plus they are cheap. I took them off a few days later and gave them to my scrap guy. ill customz has some beautiful ones that I been eyeing up. I'm not sure if I want to get the bolt down kind or the screw in kind.
Dud u get it before or after Jonathan Patrick quit? Should have bought a brand x from JP
It would of bin nice to see the voltage drop without the extra battery before and after you added the new alternator...👍
Did have a fusible link in the alternator wire that connects to the battery?
Very nice alternator, Parker. That will help a lot when you get a couple more upgrades. You definitely need an external voltage regulator. Right now, your cars computer is controlling voltage. A few companies like mechman, and I assume CES make an external regulator, so you can set the voltage wherever you want. I personally set mine at 15 volts cold, and it drops to about 14.6 once it gets hot. Also, it's definitely time for you to add some 1/0 or even 2/0 pure copper wire for your main power run. Moving 300 amps from the front to the back is a long run, and that CCA wire can't possibly keep up with the increased amps you are now generating. I'm positive you are seeing high temperatures and voltage drop because of the wire. It's time to upgrade to the pure copper wire, my friend. It will help keep everything cool, safe, and you will always see max voltage to your rear battery. Even the short run from the alternator to the front battery would benefit moving to a nice 2/0 pure copper.
OFC wire upgrades will be happening in the near future!
@@ParkerTheBasshead Great to hear the wire upgrade is coming! Check out mechman for that external regulator. It's just a small wire harness that goes in between your alternator and the factory harness for the car. Really simple to install and use, and you can set the voltage wherever you want. I think it's cheap as well.
STILL HAVE THIS ALT?...IF YES HOWS IT DOING?
Did you notice a difference in how loud your subs played?
Honestly no but my voltage stays high 13s while didn’t now so I can play it about full tilt non stop
Aw man. Lol..i know when i added my 1st 2nd battery the system was loud as hell after that. Would hurt my ears. I was like just from a extra battery🤣 i figured since it keeps your voltage up you'd have an Increase in wattage and loudness
@@chadwems if he metered it it would show a slight increase. Maybe not enough to hear. But if he keeps upgrading and then he put it back to the way it was he could tell.
So you can replace your oem alternator with a high output alternator without having to change anything? Relays? Anything at all?
I use an AutoTech Engineering 320a alt in my Accord. I think it's been about 4 years now that I put it in there, no problems yet thankfully
what year they don’t have my 2015
@@brisket9007 mine is a 2000
Upgrade your batteries I would go with lithium 25a or higher since yu have a320 a alt now
With the smaller pulley, did you have to get a shorter serpentine belt?
Is this a 320a small or large case?
Small case
the same spec can be found in an alternative alternator if you can find the model you want from mechman guys
"its a VELEO 11358" unit that comes stock in bmw e70 e.t.c or the bigger unit that comes in the M50d
the small unit does 230amp idle and 370 at rev haven't tested the big unit's peak new equipment need to be built for that
seems like over 400 amps (make my load catch fire)
these unit are used in other German cars to with all different types of mounts
keep in mind the oem BMW version uses LIN bus for control
(BMW x5 alternators are cheap & everywhere !) not E53 versions ! must be newer e70 & onwards
So couple I make that fit in my e36 ?
Do all alternators have the same fitting to attach to the car?
Do you still use this alternator today ? And have you had any issues ??
Goin on 2 yrs with my ces 320 alt and in an everyday vehicle clamping 3400 watts at times.The demand voltage from some cars at idle are usually lower with based on fuel and ignition system but some guys vehicles will actually ramp up when stereo is playing and their voltage in turn will be stronger then not playing their stereo at all,givin theyve got a lot battery reserve
I installed my mechman 320 and big 3 today and it made a huge difference to my system. Feels like a 🦍 trying to break out my sub box.
How many watts is you're system bro
@@jaystocks460 taramps smart 3. Tried the skar rp2000. Also
@@olveramelinda nice so the upgrade of the mechman made a huge difference?
@@jaystocks460 yes in voltage and a little sound. Lights are still flickering.
@@olveramelinda did you add am extra battery?
Should be able to put a resistor or diode inline an be able to keep ur v up...i use a resistor inline an i see 14.8 14.9 on cold startup an 14.4 at idle....reallllllly hot days it will idle at 13.9 on factory alt......good luck
Do you have any idea where to find a high output alternator for a Subaru with the fb25 engine? 2011+ forester 2014+ legacy 2014+ outback. I have a 2013 forester and for the life of me can not find a HO alt.
Is it still going good?
Parker its your pcms voltage regulator i didnt see you install an external unit.but dodge is controlled by the ecu or pcm.it sticks at 13.8 to 14.1 or 2.get an external unit set it to 15 15.3 also your amps current draw is whats important.you need to be able to feed that many amps fairly consistently.and if you got it running at 1 ohm or lower ima tell you from experience that amp is about 70% efficient on a solid ampere load drop below that it gets dirty real quick.so think of it like this you got a car that does 6 seconds in a 1/4 mile but you can only hold 1/8th of a tank.its a start but you cant leave the house youll run outta fuel.so your best bet is to externally reg the alt to increase the volts there for increasing charge time and amperes.there like 60$ trust me youll thank me at 13.8 volts that amp is at best 70% efficent imagine 12.5 thats 10% for every half volt.see what im saying itll sound better hit harder and the subs will thank you for it.bet 20 you play them full tilt for 5minutes them coils gonna get pretty hot from the dirty power.any my point is the factory reg doesnt charge more than 14 to 14.3 on dodge and jeep.actually i think its pose to be 13.8 i think is standard discharge rate for that int regulator and if im correct it has a 2:1 brushless actuator system.
Sorry decrease charge time*
No matter what you will have a voltage drop from the current draw the goal is to get that num no less than .5 to 1 volts from the amps current draw at what ever the amps voltage rating is at its given rms load even if you have solid play over long periods of time.no l less than 1 volt drop.but hey im just answer the voltage question and passing on my ase certification electrical engineering knowledge on to you bro.your cool and your videos are all right.they dont even know that you me and the people who watch you.are seeing something special we are growing with you as you you learn it started with one look at you now with 2 and a solid set up you'll do 4 next and when you do ill be there to say i told you sooooo.🤣🤣🤣👊👊
I got a Dodge avenger 2013 n I'm thinking of getting a higher output alt. Do u know if I'm gonna need one of those regulators or I can just swap alts?
@@migascustomsounds3054 you can just swap the alt like parker.the only issue is the charge output from the cpu wich im pretty sure is 13.8 to 14 flat
@@migascustomsounds3054 heres the whole shabang if your alt charges at 13.8 flat but your amp is rated at 14.4 your already at a disadvantage out the box
Hey Parker I have the skar 2000.1 amp with 2500 watt 12s in a vw with stock alternator. Big 3 done. Rpms jump with beat, what size alternator should I purchase any ideas why they jump also?
Monster Alternator!! Stable Voltage
I have 3 12in kickers l7s what tarama will be the biggest to use thanks
Did you keep the alternator when you sold the jeep
Congrats on the new 320a bro,,
Thanks dude!
Was your old alternator a stock?
Yep!
I’m just want to know what brand your alternators and where you buy from I have 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser when I turn up my sub amp the voltage is dropped down to 12v from 13.8 please let me know thanks you
That's wild. My ces 270 runs 14.9 all day.
What subs are you running
I would reset your PCM
My CES small case 320amp when I rev it to 1000 rpm stays in the 14s and I got 4 American bass xfl 12s on a taramp md8k and I love it cause when I'm not basting my music its sits right at about 14 but when I crank it up it'll stay there
Reggie Ford heck yeah dude! I just need to get a regular for mine and it will do better. What batteries are you running?
Does it stay at 14v at idle with wipers, AC, and all that stuff on for daily driving?
Why no amperage test?
what about belt size difference?
Wonder how it compares the more expensive alternatives like us alternators and mechman alternators, they typically are more premium alts.
But often you have to get a modified serpentine belt. Dodge Challenger it does(mechman)
TheBarrioslbc not modified just 1/2 inch shorter since custom alts have smaller pullys
@real one yes, you gotta cut them 1 or so notch depending on the size of the stock belt u heard. I gotcha.
TheBarrioslbc no bro you don’t have to cut them you just tell the maker the original belt size and hey can send you a link to a belt I just went thru this with mike singer
Hey dude do you feel like lithium or alt was a bigger help? I really want something bigger alt than I have but can’t find anything over the 250 I have
250 should be fine. Lithium will be a huge help
I use a Ebay 220amp alternator on my truck...6 months no issues..
Actually clamps around 180amp... for the price I can't complain..cheaper than a stock replacement
I can’t find one for 2019 maxima if you guys know where
Nicely done
Kris Singh thank you as always!
So Parker what is your setup gonna be now what 2 subs and amp?
What door speakers and amp too?
Chris O'Connor right now I have the two NKOs on the AudioPipe AQX3000.1.
I have Skar speakers, CT sounds super tweeters, and an alpine mini amp I will probably be installing in the next video.
After that I have some new AGMs I’ll be installing and then will be upgrading wire/amp/and subs. It’s going to be insane!
@@ParkerTheBasshead nice! I have a 200a alt in my crown vic with 1 12" on 900rms and some door components on 100rms each.
Witch one will fit a 95 lt1 350 ?
where can I get one
It's pcm bypassed, put i 470 ohm resistor on it parker💯 all newer Chrysler dodge jeep, pcm controlled
Kyle Scarberry I think all the newer cars are. I have a 15 hyundai elantra gt. And I get around 12.7 idle. But if I turn the head lights on at idle it goes to 14.2. These newer cars crazy. So i just drive with the head light on.
@@2015gtbassNoo way 😂
@@Views-xx2wt facts fam. Before I got my h/o alt .
@@2015gtbass I have newer car also I unplugged the battery sensor and get 14 volts idle but when plugged in it be 12.2 volts idle newer cars weird
@@Views-xx2wt facts
Redo your grounds with crimped 2/0 or 1/0 welding with 5/16” or 3/8” silver tinned copper ring terminals! Also use some 4 spot aluminum or copper battery distro on your batt positive and negative ( ring term or set screw) for big 3 and runs back to amps. Bad crimps or solder joints can wreak havoc on otherwise strong electrical
Nice! I was thinking about getting a Mechman alternator myself. I haven't got a read on my voltage yet but, I'm sure the 1,000 watt amp I got hooked up is putting a lot of stress on my stock electrical system.
1,000? not really. only need to upgrade alt beyond 1,500 rms watts imo. i'm finally upgrading my alt for my Taramps Bass 8K but then again my stock alt is 150a because my Ford Edge is naturally power hungry.
buy Down4Sound's newly released battery. It's awesome!
Hmmmm actually it depends on the amp and its efficiency at its givin ohm rating.cheaper amps draw more juice do to there inefficiency.also to big a list to go through but cabin and enclosure pressure along with tuning and enclosure effi ency and sub ohm rating plays a massive part as well also your 120 amp alt 370 9000 watever you got is only putting out and I'll be generous here 65 to 70% of its givin output rating unless your running it as a sepreate setup and the you have wat we call crankdrag ie the alt doesnt spin at the rpm it use to do to increase stress on the pulley system and horsepower loss so ie if your rpms drop when your bang bangs your your car lunges or everything dims not just the head lights.time for upgrades and lithiums can not.be ran with agm or lead acid.if you chose a small agm wich will work just fine for a 1k at 60% efficiency at 1ohm just make sure if the agm is bigger than your starter batt run an isolator or you gonna be pissed when you late for work belive me.
As dirty as the engine bay is, I wouldn't have wasted the $45 for the powder coating.
Ya definitely a waste of money, unless you plan on showing it .
Powder coating is extremely durable and easy to clean
You should definitely switch to lithium man. It saves so much weight and money over AGM. Just make sure you delete all AGM out of the system if you do that. Also sometimes the car regulates the voltage/amperage instead of the alt. I had to swap the internal regulator out on my CES alt and get a harness with a diode wired into it, and had to not use my factory harness, because the wires went directly into the cars regulator, of course I have a battery light now because it just bypasses all of that. You can check with Mike Singer at Singer alternators and see if he can get you one made up if you're interested. Mine was 13.8V stock, but now it will charge at 14.8V and actually put out 250A when clamped. Make sure you get a clamp meter that does DC and AC measuring for amperage. DC from alt to the battery for the real world charging amperage, and AC for clamping your speaker wires so you can see how much power your subs are seeing. Looking good so far man.
in my opinion you should’ve went with mechman
need one for a 2zzge lotus engine
Ive tried searching this brand x everyone keeps saying and cant find them online at all
Facebook brand x eletrical
You won't be disappointed
Thanks
@@kencoykendall5139 they are on instragram too and respond really quickly
What's your thought on js alternators?
did you get one? i just ordered a 320 amp frpm them
@@hooptastic_hippie8522 yes I got the 320amp so far so good now I'm building my bank.
@@Strict30 what are you using for that bank? I got a D4S LTO 6.0 at the moment
@@Strict30 I was building a bank of lifp04 cells but I need a charger or tester to see if the cells are still good...ive hadem a while
@@hooptastic_hippie8522 if they are 2.8 to 3.4 just put together balance it and let alt charge it.
Nice addition yep external voltage regulator will get you the results your looking for ,I wouldn't set at 15 though like a lot of viewers are suggesting that could damage your electrical over time But I new it you've got the SICKNESS there's NO turning back now lol Bass bug has bitten you my friend MORE MORE MORE lol Happy for you bro that system is turning into a MONSTER Bass machine and I love watching it grow 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Ciao Parker l'alternatore c'è anche per Opel meriva?
Auguri per il tuo canale sei bravo e simpatico auguri
Alternator is the single best upgrade for and system
Hey, I have the same alt. You need to get an external regulator to charge higher. I recommend bluebox. Also you need to charge your batteries, on that spec sheet it tells you your batteries should be charged around 12.8. Also you need to get more reserve. The alt can only do so much if there is not enough reserve.
Amperage~ correct term “current”
I have a stock alternator
Congrets on getting this very important car part awesome . Now for the bad news 3000 watts rms is all you are getting there. Now if you want more amps a 2nd alt needs to be there with 6 support batts is needed to complete the power supply cycle. Now 3 supports batts you can get right now to complete the 3000 amps of power.
Thanks man! And yes there will definitely be more support upgrades coming soon
@@ParkerTheBasshead Awesome
Phone # to where u got it?
I payed $320 for my CES 320a😰😰 2010 jeep grand cherokee
how is it holding up?
@@DjR3aper still going strong
Next time you want to pull the positive cable. Less likely to find an accidental connection than the negative. Thanks for the upload.
Nice whats there website or phone # i whant check wt they have for my car
just need to put in my purple one 350 amps baby
Bruh u should of went with Brand X. Way cheaper and you can have the option to have it set at 15.2. 200 amps at idling on a 270 alt. Plus it was 320
Where did you get the brand x just asking
@@joshuacobble7910 Jonathan Patrick on fb
That alternator will do 15v his computer isn’t letting it though..
Jaytaybrae 3 how much do they run
@@RUclipssucks.. gotcha. I've been impressed on my Brand X alt. I need to get the one I got from O.G rebuilt so I can have a back up
It’s your computer that’s controlling your voltage you should of had that alternator set at 14.6
This man rite here voltage is dumb solid. Can't wait to see vids of the new build
You're voltage should remain the same because you don't want to overload the electrical system in your car. Your battery should always show 12V when the car isn't started. You should never want more than 14.4 Volts while running because that could damage you're electrical system over time. The one thing that the High amp alt should be doing which it looks like it does is maintain the voltage better and give an increase in charging amperage.
Ok cool well it definitely maintains it better but I’ve heard others talk about getting higher voltage so I wasn’t sure
@@ParkerTheBasshead You can definitely get higher voltage out of that alternator. Right now, your ECU is controlling the voltage regulator of the alternator. There are a couple of tricks you can do to fool the ECU into increasing the voltage, or you can get an adjustable voltage regulator. I know mechman makes an adjustable regulator, or better yet, talk to CES about what they offer as far as adjustable regulators or ways to up the voltage. With good agm batteries, you can sit comfortably at 14.8 to 15 volts. Also, I think it's time to ditch the CCA wire you have running to the back of the car for some 2/0 pure copper wire. You can get decent 2/0 welding wire locally from a place like Airgas for pretty cheap, or order from your favorite online vendor. It will make a big difference now that you are moving around 300+ amps of current to the back of the car. The CCA is definitely overwhelmed trying to move that much current around. I bet you are seeing voltage drop at the rear battery, and it's definitely gonna get hot, which will only increase voltage drop to the back.
@@catch22frubert I change all of mines to 4/0 welding wire and I love it. I stay at 14.9 full tilt but I run ces80 tho
You earned sub
PARKER WHEN YOU SAID YOUR PULLEY BELT IS SMALLER YOU HAVE TO CHANGE YOUR BELT TO A SHORTER SIZE IF YOU PUT THE SAME BELT IT WONT DO YOU ANY GOOD.. MEASURE THE STOCK PULLEY WHEEL THEN THE SMALLER ONE AND DEDUCT THAT FROM ORIGINAL BELT SIZE AND GET THAT CORRECT BELT WHICH WOULD BE SMALLER SO THE HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR RUNS HOW IT SHOULD!
Upgrade your battery to a xs6500
Yeah I would have recommended CES when Jonathan Patrick was working there and he personally built the alts but since him getting denied the payment he deserved and then fired by the owners WIFE I honestly would not buy anything from them so by me telling you about my alt it is not about the company CES it is about the man who built it which was Jonathan Patrick lol but I had msg'd him on Facebook inquiring about an alt for my 08 Lincoln mkx as I had found some company on ebay claiming to have a 300amp alt for around $289 well turns out that company was a joke and he ships out used junkyard alts that're OEM spec'd claiming them to be 300amp alts lol but to my surprise Jonathan Patrick offered to build me a true 300amp alt for the same price, so I paypal'd him the money at 6pm that day and the alt was on my doorstep the following morning and he had emailed me a vid testing it and my 300a does over 200a at idle and I have two SKAR SK3500'S strapped at 1ohm each with an XS power D3400 under hood and a d3100 out back and I literally have zero voltage drop while driving even at full tilt... your voltage is regulated internally by your vehicles computer so adding more amperage is not going to net you a higher voltage but you can buy an external regulator and turn it up so the alt puts out 16v if you wanted to! Lol
It looks like the spray painted it !🤦♂️
very cheap my car was $ 620 custom buidt ... your engine light is on , not good
Tell them that your car idles lower than most cars
Too bad they powder coated the copper wiring on the inside of the alternator 👎
I think mechman is a better brand they’re alts have a high charge output at idle
Here's a link to a external voltage regulator that a lot of people are telling you to get it happens to be for dodge Chrysler vehicles. I assume this will give you 14.4 or even 14.6 at Idle
ruclips.net/video/utXjxwPAcHk/видео.html
Thanks man appreciate you!
Tars amp
ITS NOT WEIRD... ITS A SCAM AN YOU JUST PROVED IT..THANKS
Shannon Scott haha no it turns out the car regulates the voltage through the pcm so I would just need an external regulator
voltage didn't drop as low