Alternator Shootout at Idle (136 vs 160 vs 250 amp)
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- I take 3 alternators, head to head at idle to show which one will perform better than the other at idle, and will also a 49mm alternator pulley on all 3 to see how much that helps to increase the voltage. I have been experiencing a lower than desirable voltage at idle ever since I installed the electric cooling fan for the radiator and the ATI super Damper with a 25% underdrive pulley.
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One thing I learned while working in auto parts, an alternator's amperage rating is given @ 2000 rpm. So when it comes to idle speed power production, all goes out the window, 160 amp alternator A will more than likely produce something different than 160 amp alternator B. Currently running the durango 160 amp alternator in my XJ and my volt meter hardly moves down off 14v even with my sub thumpin and my stereo blasting.
That’s impressive, my XJ will drop from 14-12v with just the AC fan coming on.
@@jordantrujillo293 the only way I can get my volt meter to hit 12v is by winching my Jeep up a long steep incline with 12-18" tall steps after blowing up my transfer case on the trail and getting no output to either axle, all the while runnin my instant pot to heat up dinner. 5000w power inverter + instant pot = everybody inviting you on every wheelin trip and offering to bring the food if you'll just bring the way to get it hot 🤣🤣
This video demo is absolutely genius. Gives me the courage to swap out my crappy mini van's alt and slap a higher amperage to keep up with the car audio demands.
@therockkkkher not yet but i am about to. Will post the video soon my channel. I will be using alternator from a Nissan Caravan NV350 150A alternator or from a Mitsubishi Pajero 110A alts. I already bought these two and will fabricate steel mountings. Really soon my channel.
what you need my good sir is a big v3/v4 kit its a bigger AWG depending on what accessories you have like for an example i have aftermarket accessories like 2 mini light bars 2 600w amps 1200w alpine subs wheel well multi color led lights upgraded msd coil pack for wider spark plug gaps (.035) the vehicle manufacturers are the cheapest bastards and with that being said they run thin gauge wires from your alternator to battery and even battery ground as well as engine ground so simple solution is before you replace your alternator buy a big v3 kit for YOUR TYPE of vehicle install the kit DONT replace factory wire just put your new kit wire typically 0-4 AWG over your existing factory wire this will save you time and money by not having to buy another alternator because more then likely the factory AWG isnt letting the alternator produce the electric capacity its really capable of 🤟🏼🤟🏼👌
@@1.4tmechanicscruze61
Exellente point of view, allowed me to ask the questions & equipment
Should I do Only 3 big as you had suggested nor alternator & 3 Big.
I'm planing to hire a professional car Audio to do the job.
2018 CHEVROLET SONIC LT
HATCHBACK 4 DR
1.4L I4 F DOHC 16V
Amperage Output : 100 Amp
******"Equipment******"
JL Audio VX600/1i Amplifier
VX1000/1i Monoblock Class D Amplifier
DRC-205 Digital Remote Control for JLid
JL Audio 12W7AE-3Anniversary Edition W7 Series 12" 3-ohm subwoofer
Focal PS 165 FXEPerformance Series 6-1/2" Maximum power: 160W
Focal PC165F Flax 6.5”
Maximum power: 140W
Focal Elite Utopia M Tweeters
Maximum Power: 200W
Thanks 😊👍☕
I realize I'm pretty off topic but do anyone know a good website to watch newly released series online?
@Jeffery Julio lately I have been using flixzone. You can find it on google =)
Good comparison. Your under drive crank is really hurting the output. Keep in mind that the alternators cooling fans are also turning slower, more heat
Nice video. You could also upgrade your charging and ground wires to help with the load. I am into car audio and upgrading the charging and ground wires make a huge difference as well.
Thanks for the tips!
The wires should be thicker right?
@joshsmith9 no, but it allows more power to be utilized more easily. It's like the difference of trying to breathe though a straw verses a paper towel roll.
Good info. Some things need to perform at idle, like A/C when stuck in traffic.
Great video. As noted by another viewer, the slower rpm speed will have a dramatic effect on the alternator. Of course you proved that by installing a smaller diameter pulley. Also, the vehicles computer may also have an effect, the type of battery, & the age of the battery itself may have an effect. I had a 2015 Chevy cargo van that would cause voltage drops from the stock alternator. I called the dealership, asking if this was normal, & they said yes. I further inquired as to why, and it was explained to me that it was part of the fuel economy system. Certain times when I was going up a incline/ hill, the computer would cut off the alternator in order to reduce HP drawn on the engine, which helps with fuel economy. This would also happen with the air conditioner in the summer time. Also noted by another viewer was to perform the big three upgrade. Especially if you are installing a higher current output alternator. Your stock electrical wiring is generally rated for the current demands from the electrical system. Car manufacturers only give you what you need. Nothing more.
Martin: Thanks for these videos, you've saved me a lot of time in R&D on my 4.7's.
I'm glad my 49mm pulley calculations were correct. Seems the 160 has much better windings. I'll be employing your combo (AIRRAM/ATI, 49MM and 160).
Keep these coming
Right on
You may also try this with a multimeter on the alternator post. Ive found that any digital guages plugged into the obd2 port usually display lower than what the actual voltage output of the alternator is. Id check at the alt post, battery post and the input post of the junction box. Scan tools also display lower than actual voltage. Also anytime ive done a h.o. alternator i replace the lead from the alt to battery and to the junction box with heavier guage ofc wire like 2 gauge. That always seems to improve things. 8 and 10 gauge with fusible links can only allow so much current at a time. Great vid keep em comin.
Thanks. I need to get a new alternator. Now I know to get the 160amp and the smaller pulley. Great video
U are a life saver
Been trying to find info on this but nobody did a video like this keep up the great work brother
Thanks, will do! Appreciate it!
I think that underdrive pulley really hurts your charging from your alternators wonder if the 250 amp would do allot better with correct speed compared to the 160amp
What I found out that pissed me off was it seems buying high amp alternators generally charge less at idle speed then your stock alternator. they charge more when wound up but idle speed is critical if you drive in any kind of daily traffic.
Many thanks for your simple and very good explanation and alternators tests
Thanks Martin. This is actually something I've been curious about, because I'm considering doing a cargo van conversion, with electrical system.
I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful 👍 😊
You should do a big 3 upgrade on you charging system wiring! With a larger alternator your bottle necking the power flow of the high out alternator!
exactly what i suggested that could save people a lot of money by not having to buy another alternator they could just install a big 3 kit a lot of people don't know about it and end buy a bigger voltage alternator and have the same problem basically your factory wire is not producing the electricity that your alternator can really put out DONT UPGRADE ALTERNATOR UPGRADE AWG lol
@@1.4tmechanicscruze61 where can I buy it
thats not the issue here, its the low alternator speed. the only fix is reducing pully size. just because you have a H/O output alternator doesnt mean you will get higher voltage at low RPM. H/O alternators actually need higher speeds to reach their regulated voltage.
@@alexanderk6512 but even if you reduce pully size and get more amps, the factory wire cannot support the increased amps. Upgrade the wire size. 1/0
@mighty9100 nit true. It's just depends on what your stick wiring is. Mine is 4 Guage . From factory
From my understanding, alternator output is stated at 3600rpm. Idle will be dramatically lower hence the need for a battery. A battery is your fuel tank. Your alternator will replenish your battery while driving and do what it can at idle. A 160 alternator will output only 65-70 amps at idle with the stock pulley. Electric cooling fans can pull 30-40 amps alone. Really need that battery capacity to be available as much as an alternator ready to replenish it.
Great work Martin, I was certain the 250 amp would be more than enough to level out the voltage, Glad you posted the video. Keep’em coming!
Glad you enjoyed it
It wasn’t a real 250 amp alternator. Amazon junk.
I saw elsewhere on YT that high amp (aftermarket) alternators get their amperage from rewiring the windings in the stator from series to parallel (or vice versa). High rpm performance is improved at the cost of low rpm performance.
Depends what company, i just bought a 320a from autotech engineering that puts out 170ish at idle(650rpm)
This is completely new in my knowledge. Thank you Sr. You are the man Sr.
Glad to help
what you need my good sir is a big v3/v4 kit its a bigger AWG depending on what accessories you have like for an example i have aftermarket accessories like 2 mini light bars 2 600w amps 1200w alpine subs wheel well multi color led lights upgraded msd coil pack for wider spark plug gaps (.035) the vehicle manufacturers are the cheapest bastards and with that being said they run thin gauge wires from your alternator to battery and even battery ground as well as engine ground so simple solution is before you replace your alternator buy a big v3 kit for YOUR TYPE of vehicle install the kit DONT replace factory wire just put your new kit wire typically 0-4 AWG over your existing factory wire this will save you time and money by not having to buy another alternator because more then likely the factory AWG isnt letting the alternator produce the electric capacity its really capable of 🤟🏼🤟🏼👌
Interesting about the idle speed... Getting ready to put an '04 Sequoia alternator in my '06 IS250. Thanks for the great vid! God bless...
Thank you. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. Good luck with your upgrade.
Great video and Mopar to boot. I killed my battery this past weekend running headlights, fuel pump and fans at idle waiting to get into a car show. You gave me plenty of great info.
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. Hope you did well at the car show.
Alot of things need to be considered here. The 160a with small puller may keep higher voltage under load but the 250a will supply more amperage under load(depending what rpm that 250a is specified). If you're wanting more voltage depending if your alt is internally regulated then a couple diodes will fix that(15v+) or if you're externally regulated then you may have to look at an external regulator with the 250a alt.
The thing is by adding diodes or a resistor and trying to boost the voltage will not work at idle because the the voltage regulator is already telling the alternator I'm looking for 13.8 or whatever voltage if the alternator can't produce it at that RPM changing a voltage regulator or adding diodes or resistors will not make any difference in my case.
@@martinbuilt so I'm guessing your alt is externally regulated.. you would need an adjustable external regulator then and yes.. you can adjust voltage to whatever you need cold start.
Thanks for this video. I've got a 2001 Land Rover Discovery 2 (L318) with a 4.0L Thor engine and a stock 120A alternator. A 2001 Land Rover Range Rover (P38) with a slightly bigger 4.6L Thor engine with a stock 150A alternator.
Many Discovery 2 owners have stated that the Range Rover 150A alternator is adaptable to our Discovery 2s.
Thanks for your experiments showing the differences. Cheers from a 'Murican in the UK!
Nice Buick
I swear I am not some shill for the company, but you have to check out Mechman alternators. I have a 6.0 Powestroke (with fully upgraded wiring for + and -) truck that absolutely eats alternators due to the plowing and really low idle / 3.5k maximum RPMs. Those things actually deliver real idle output and they even come rated and pretested at Idle and running speeds. I've installed them on every truck I own barring one junker van. Your video absolutely made me feel better about spending $500 on a 320 amp alt from them. Plus no need to run a smaller pully unless you wanted to.
Hey Martin thanks for your help earlier. I fixed my AC in an old jeep I bought. 2002 Overland. The compressor works fine! Just needed 134 a. Did the dye no leaks. Might be a small one at schrader valve. That all I saw. I was trying to find the low pressure sensor to jump it over but after recharge it works fine. Hubs and brakes r next! I will catch some more of your videos for that. Boy you r such a huge help. I have air tools too. Glad you are here!!
Glad it helped
Glad I ran into this video. Had the same issue when upgrading to a higher amp alternator. The idle performance was just horrible. With a full load it started to dip in the 10s with voltage. Accessories would sound slower and the all the lights on dash would flicker a bit if already illuminated (but was fine higher RPM). This was after I have done my big 3 upgrade. Luckily I still had my previous alternator and decided to slap that back in. 14 Volts across the board sometimes hitting 13. Returned the High amp alt and got my funds back. Not sure what my current alternator puts out as I had a shop replace my older one but just wanted a bit more amp headroom for the equipment I am running.
So you think 250 amp isn’t good?
@@Sip28 didn’t say that. I Probably had a defective alternator or wrong pulley size. Not to long ago I purchased a 200amp powermaster, so far so good! 96 E150 5.8l V8
@@gmax341 I had power master too but isn’t the idle amperage 130?
@@Sip28 yes that’s correct. My idle at warm is around 500-600rpm
@@gmax341 130 too low for me. I need idle to be be at least 180amp
Great video. I just put a chrysler 320 Amp 200 at idle JS Alternator on my 2.4L 2016 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk. I had a 160A stock but now my MPG has gone up from 32highway to 38 to 41 and my voltage is 14.3 at my cigar outlet with AC on max and fan running.
Where was the AMPERAGE reading? Did I miss the critical unit of measurement ( as in the video title)?
Thank you for that, I’ve been upgrading these on different vehicles for years and never knew a 160 would ever outperform a 250 all things being equal (idle rpm). Never do the builders mention any of that useful info.
No problem 👍glad I could help.
Right wonder why is it the opposite?
Lower voltage means more amps, that's why alt was so hot. putting out amps to get back to voltage set point
Thanks for the video I was just thinking about changing my alternator
Glad I could help
Me too I got 7k watts im trying to feed.
martinbuilt can I get a link on the 250
@@Bigv57thG and here is another link
Eagle High Fits 250 Amp Alternator Dodge Dakota V6 3.7L 226cid 2004-2006 Dakota V8 4.7L 285cid 2005-2006 amzn.to/3dBWW7E
First put bigger charge wire on alt 4awg or bigger
I had the same problems with my blend doors !!! Changed everything out and still had the same issues !! I thought I knew what that sound was... Had to laugh when you confirmed it. 😂🤣
yeah the previous owner had the blend doors replaced and they still do it, I've heard it is a Grand Cherokee thing. I just live with it.
Great video Martin! I’d love to see a repair video on the blend doors, or one on how to repair the heated seats🤙🏼
I guess I think 4 things (great video BTW): your belt drive system is underdrive to start, none of the alternators perform well at 600RPM (luckily I don't drive at 600 RPM), and the 136 AMP was working hard under any circumstance, and I agree, the 160amp was best balance between $ and performance, although I am curious about reliability and life.
Voltage is not what you want to be checking as long as your in an acceptable charging range. You need to have an amp meter to see the real winner.
This is what i was wondering also-.and no mention of brand or if was a hairpin type design or the standard
Amazon alternators are junk anything under the 370 dollar range is garbage. Your biggest mistake your alternator wire is not 1/0 to the battery there goes your voltage the big 3 has to be done. That jeep if it's got 2 awg I be shocked probably 4 awg. Good for 130 amps and that's still under sized. 0 gauge is 1/0 not 1 awg go get some welding wire short positive to battery off alternator 1/0 to two grounds a 1/0 to frame and a good ground to motor. Get your self a custom electric alternator from Ohio 250 amp stock pulley. A real good agm battery and you will be at 14.5 volts. I run 5000 watts on a microphone that's transmit power and much bigger stuff then 3 of your jeeps can run. I'm on 3 500 dollar batteries.
If you are dipping below 12 at idle it means your alternator can’t keep up with the load and is letting it sag down. Checking voltage is a quiz and easy way to see if the alternator is keeping up.
Amp clamp is when you have reason to deeper diagnostics.
@@BVN-TEXAS Nice re-hash! Keep on spreading great knowledge 👍
video very helpful. I now realize i fried my alternator driving city speeds with all accesories on plus a 1500w amp.
Excellent comparison, Ive got an older Chevy with a 5.7, my alt output with my a/c and electric fan on it pulls it down to 11.9 volts. Now I just gotta find at minimum a 130 amp alt, ive found a 200 amp, but have always thought that was to much anyways,
Doing the Lord's work.
The voltage depends on few factors not just pulley size and alternator size. The alternator amperage, the battery size, the battery quality class, and the load, the resistance of the circuit. These 3-5 factors. I remember that for a 3.2-4.3 liter mercedes ML, 1998, a battery size of 100amp hours or 725CCA and an alternator sized 115 AMP, was factory reccomended back then. Of course now the alternator sizes put by manufacturers are greater. Say a 540CCA stock battery in GM cars with 1.6 liter engines is matched with a 100 to 120 AMP or 150 AMP alternators with the option for the buyer to put a max size of 680CCA battery.
Also the outside temperature affects the batteries ability to hold energy, whcih is less during winter and better during summer. Thus a battery might need a warming cover.
With an AC fan running at max speed-3rd or 4th speed in GM cars, during hot summer the battery voltage in european Opel Zafira 1.6 can go down to 12.7 volts with stock alternator of 120AMPS and 680 CCA battery.
tech tip I have learnt it's not just voltage you look at but also amperage as well
I Noticed that as You put items on, your RPM also kicked Down!!
Ya, my ZJ has electric fan, stereo and the stock alternator can't handle it when I have accessories on. Thanks for the video. I'll think about a 160 and a 49mm for sure
let me know how it works out.
Nice video Martin. This is Scott’s brother from Louisiana. I hear all kinds of martinbuilt stories. 👍👍
Awesome demo and general info on those alternator tests. Thanks 😊
Thank you I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. 😊
I just rebuilt my 100 amp OEM Toyota hairpin, with better OEM parts from a Dodge Durango to better cope with the 800+ amp draw it receives in my car. Larger 12 - 50 amp diode rectifier plate vs 6- 35 amp, 1.8 ohm rotor, and re- configured the stator to do 240 Amps. It is an improvement from the 2.2 ohm rotor, and 6 diode plates factory. Still not happy with idle output, I bought another new denso 160a stator, tore it down again(solder joints @ the rectifier plates were a bitch) and after the new stock stator, I have a very stable 155+ amps at cold dead idle with a small pulley. Actually pretty good for a small case.
I'll upload a video later this next week, I have a genuine denso regulator that has a higher base voltage setpoint(14.5 vs 13.6v) with temperature compensation on the way. When that's installed, I'll make a video of it clamped at full temp. I plan on a large case DC power unit(XP270 - 220a hot idle 270+ at speed. It'll take a while to get here. For now, and playing with this small case, learning about the difference in parts, and how easy it is to make an OEM home built - high output alternator yourself, its actually incredibly easy. I even devised a way to have variable voltage control on the fly from inside with a variable 6k ohm resistor. I really should make a tutorial on the next build. It's fun doing it yourself, I even painted the case when it was apart, even looks like a professional aftermarket unit.
I'll get something real good posted here soon. No reason why others can't build a very high quality unit of their own as well.
Thanks for posting, it confirms my exact experience, and upon research and finding this video, I know after all the work again tearing it apart, it was ultimately the right choice for down low power.
You da man!
Check the idle solnoid activity, check battery cells, clean all ground n earth sockets n contactors upgrade all grounds to higher gage wire , finally check or replace voltage regulator n the belt
Thanks. I have both a 130 amp and a 200 amp alternator for my Ford.....and neither put out enough at idle....in drive at a stoplight, to maintain the battery with 'winter' stuff on, like heater blower, headlights and defogger..... Will try the smaller pully.
Sounds good, it worked out good for me.
Good information!
I wouldn't have thought the 160 would out preform the 250
I think the 160 is star wound and the 250 delta
Thanks for the video.
According a few wj owners the pcm quits regulating the voltage at some point...some of them even junked their wj's for not knowing what to do...but the few that kept the wj just installed a voltage regulator fixed at 14.3...but it has an adjustment screw on the back to increase or decrease...i bougth one from alternatormen...end of problem..cheers!
I will look into that, thank you!
Thanks Martin that was very interesting as are all your videos I don't own a jeep but applicable to others. Keep up the good work and Hi from Australia.
Oh Brother...thank you so much for this video! You just saved me a lot of money. I'm not a mechanic in the least, but
I find myself in the market for a new alternator, knowing absolutely zilch about them. The video I watched here on youtube just before watching yours told me outright to buy the biggest alternator I can afford and not to worry about it, that it has no ill affect on my vehicle whatsoever. And, that way I would be prepared for any added electrical add ons in the future. I was shocked to see these results of your. It was like watching Goldilocks' Garage....not too cold, not too hot, but just right! Liked and subscribed...
Man I wish you lived in South Florida. Gotta change out one of my lifters, got a slight tick going on. Just changed the valve covers last weekend.
FYI 13.5v is normal float voltage for a fully charged lead battery. Charging voltage is generally 14.4-14.8v. There's frequently a voltage drop in all that electrical equipment. Check it at the battery or alternator. I can almost guarantee it's a higher voltage.
Normally minimal driving is at idle...while it's interesting useful info...it's not a very realistic factor for most.
A good alternator should put out between 13.5-14.4 volts. If the charge gets above 14.5 volts, your battery will overheat and boil
Very scientifically done. Great job and very helpful information. Thank you for the work you put into your videos.
Thank you!
I have been working for long time on alternator the hair pins has double stator plus very small pulley you can have good results
Some alternators dont seems to charge untill a certain rpm. Say 1200 rpm, glad you tried the smaller pulley
Mr Electron
Thanks for sharing. But electrically speaking, the 250A alternator should be capable of handling the load more than the 160A one, as the voltage drop will be less on the 250A one than the 160 one. This should be the case unless the 250A alternator has some problem with its voltage regulator.
Huh, that's interesting. I thought for sure the 250 would have given you the best results. Great vid as always 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
It's the way they wire the high amp alternators to get that amperage. Performs better at higher rpms, but at a cost to low rpm oerformance.
I would have been interested in Amp draw measurements at idle under maximum load.
Thanks for all of your videos! I am soon to do the heads on my 02 dodge ram 1500 with a 4.7. I was just wondering the other day if I could upgrade the stock 136 amp alternator to a 160 amp with no problems. I think this answers my question. The reason for the upgrade would be because I have a warn M-8000 winch & it bogs down real bad when I use it. I have been binge-watching your videos so I can learn more about what is in store for me ahead. Hey, thanks a lot for the wealth of knowledge, you have made this back yard mechanic a lot more confidant. Just subbed.
Thank you, that is when you need a bigger alternator for those high amperage accessories like winches and audio system. The 160 should help out and you may what to install the 49mm pulley.
Great video! It would be useful to make a table at the end with comparing avg. results for all 3 alternators on different loads :) Style Project Farm
Thanks!
Great suggestion! I'll work on that and place it in the description.
You can start by upgrading all your battery cables to 1/0 OFC will allow you to pull a little more amperage out of your stock alternator. If it still can't maintain 13 volts then I would give mechman a call and have them build you one that will easily handle what you're looking to do.
The temperature of the alternators should have been measured at idle. Running high amps at idle has burned up a lot of alternators or caused vehicle fires. Victron charging systems has a video on their channel showing the excessive heat at idle on the alternators at idle.
Their denso alternators are excellent, mine went 260,000 miles no problems. 160 amp.
id say the 160 with the 49mm pully outperformed the 250apm alternator, regardless of how they built the 250amp alt i think they shoulda made it to hold 13 v at all engine rpms, i was shocked it didnt even perform good with a 49mm at idle. i mean lets say im trying to show off my big sub to a friend, im not gonna rev my engine to 4000rpm for that 250 amp alt to work, just doesnt make sense, i hope the manufacturer change their way of thinking and make their alt put out 13-14v and 250amp around 700rpm, that would be perfect
... low rpm, high load /output=overhearing.. high rpm, adds cooling (fan internal fan. Notice how hot the alternator when he was holding it..
But amperage output at idle is actually the best test when just looking at the alternator. Volts is a SYSTEM test which includes battery, battery state of charge, battery age, battery reserve capacity (rated in amp hours) and integrity of vehicle grounds and positive circuit. In other words, if you had 2fully charged heavy duty lead acid batteries, the results would be totally different in volts. The results are accurate, but only for YOUR vehicle at that point in time. Solving all vehicle voltage problems with the alternator is like getting the buggy ahead of the horse.
I'm pretty sure that crystler vehicles need a voltage regulator to boost the voltage up
I bypassed the pcm voltage regulator with one from a early 80's dodge. It is adjustable voltage on the back, I set mine to 14.5 and it only dipped a couple of tenths here and there. You have to put a resistor on the pcm wire to fool the pcm so you won't get a code p044. I also have the 136 amp alt. Just an idea.
One of those things I might do one of these days.
I use your videos for my 99 Jeep GC Limited 4x4. These are great!
Glad you like them!
the same spec can be found in an alternative alternator if you can find the model you want from mechman guys
"its a VELEO 11358" unit that comes stock in bmw e70 e.t.c or the bigger unit that comes in the M50d
the small unit does 230amp idle and 370 at rev haven't tested the big unit's peak new equipment need to be built for that
seems like over 400 amps (make my load catch fire)
these unit are used in other German cars to with all different types of mounts
keep in mind the oem BMW version uses LIN bus for control
(BMW x5 alternators are cheap & everywhere !) not E53 versions ! must be newer e70 & onwards
The thing is that the current is high but the voltage is too too low because they use thicker wire in the 200+ amps so that reduces the amount of turn on the stator winding
thanks uncle..so that means im going to small pulley to my 120a upgradble altenator..done subcribed
Thanks for the sub!
Great video… I accidentally came across your channel and I have subscribed… Good stuff…Very informative
Thank you I appreciate that. And thank you for watching and subscribing.
I replaced my the one in my 04 when it went bad with one from a Durango, I believe it is a 160.
Yeah many of the Durango's have 160 amp alternators that's where I got the one I used in this test from.
4:13 Nice Fart Martin, oh yes the “blend” doors I will start using that one as well
The YT gods threw me your video. I like a lot of it. I think you could really improve your value to viewers if you summarized all your hard work and data collection into a summary spread sheet (similar to YT'r Project Farm).
Hey martin ,nice comparitive testing.iam owner of 2002 grand limited and it has the quad 2 /44 diffs in it.because it reguires friction modifers in it.what gear oil do you top off urs with.i really dont feel like a trip to dealership to get it done.plus with covid shutdown they might not even be open.dont have an issue just want to refresh fluids.!!all help appreciated.glad to see ur still putting out content.keep gearing snookie pa.
Definitely add some 4 AWG wire from the battery to the generator, from the batt. to the starter and a couple of grounds from batt. to chassis and batt. to the generator's body ensuring they both go through the factory hall shunt.
Yeah actually I've done all that I stalled one gauge grounds and a 1 gauge to the alternator and that made no difference.
And I knew it wouldn't make any difference but I just had to humor everybody that kept telling me to do it.
would be curious to see the actual current load on the system while turning those items on one at a time. i always thought 14.4v was what the alternator puts out, that is what all of mine are anyways. then the based on the load and the gauge of the wires versus the alternator's max current is at any given rpm will determine voltage drop. if your cables from the alt to the battery and ground are too small for the load the voltage will drop, and waste energy in the form of heat on the conductors.
Thank you so much for helping me learn.
I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful thank you for watching.
If you need power at idle, look to get a hairpin alt. You don’t need to spin them up to get them to put out.
Wow that was really cool bro. Hell that's a lot of time for us.
Thank you i'm glad you like it.
Lots of efforts in this video
Going from 57mm to 49mm doesn't even make up for the 25% underdrive pulley. I wonder if the stock alternator would have perfectly driven your extra loads if you didn't mess with the pulleys in the first place.
How did I miss this one back in May?? Sure wish I had seen this before basically re-doing this research. I landed on the 160 Durango alternator for my 01 snow plow WJ with an electric winch
Hello, I like the 160 it has been working well for me. Hopefully, that will be enough for your snowplow. 🤔
@@martinbuilt hey do you know where to find the smaller pulley?? Thanks, loved the video!
Here is a 49mm pulley amzn.to/3HY7huA
Thank you. I'm glad you liked it 👍
Yup Even Diesels need great performance at idle.
all that would need to happen now would be to put the mechanical fan back on with the clutch ;; there are 4 bolts that hold the fan blade to the fan clutch ;; you take 2 of the bolts out of the clutch and you drill 2 of the holes in the clutch all the way through and use longer bolts with locknuts ;; this effectively locks the clutch so that there is no slippage as fan clutches only put out 80 percent at most because they never turn the same rpm as the engine ;;; having a mechanical fan takes a huge load off the alternator and the battery and incidently the grand cherokees did come if ordered so with the high performance cooling package for like towing and so on which is the package consisting of the mechanical clutch fan ;;; i had the same problem years ago because of driving down the road with a small snowplow on the front which effectively blocked airflow to the radiator making the electric fan constantly run . at the cost of a few horse power numbers ; i stuck with the mechanical fan setup while leaving the electrical fan right in front of it and the electrical fan never kicks on
time for a mechman alternator that puts out higher amps at hot idle
Thank you so much for making this video so informative
Glad it was helpful!
Your only hope it to do what I did....bypass the internal regulator in the ecm with an adjustable external regulator.i stay at about 14.5 with 2000 watts in system on the stock 136
Great movie! And as always inspiring, no one does it on RUclips (!). But what about belt tension? Maybe it's worth starting a larger pulley somewhere else - to get the same tension? And I wonder what will happen adding a large capacitor (used for high power car audio amps). Great work, thanks!
great video man thank you for the feed back. i am a subscriber now
Thank you I really appreciate that. And thank you for subscribing.
but there is a lot of other things to consider too, like on the 90's mitshubichi's they use the grounds at the body's chassis and not the battery negative termninal, and doing so that car struggeled with the same as you did, with way to low charging voltage,
so remember to have - negative going directly from battery to engine body and then to the car's body for the rest, and btw how does your alternators regulate the voltage? Is it built inside the alternators or is there a sensing wire going from your positive battery to your cars dashboard "no charge/battery lamp" and then back into the alternators sensing port, is there a separate ground cable for the internals of the alternator? like those marine alternators that needs separate grounds so your boat engine doesn't corrode to hell.., there is a lot to consider, how would it be if you wired the one pin to field to max and made the sensing wire shorter, woulld not the alternator put out more amperage so the voltage would go up too, even though you got low voltage with the smallest alternator, does not mean that the voltage you showed us, is the contstant voltage across the battery, then you need an ampere clamp and separate voltage meter over the battery, and btw where does that tuning device you got, where does it measure the voltage, directly from the battery or via the ecu?
btw I love the video and work you have done to get a point out to people..
Now that’s an apples to apples comparison with real charging issues scenarios. Great job!
What was that nifty ratchet you used, gotta get me one. Thanks
Thank you, I really appreciate that. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Your Factory Alternator is fine you should upgrade your battery size That is your energy source. If you replacing your alternator with Bigger alternator You need to upgrade your wiring size to. Alternator is designed to deliver more energy on high rpm. Any time when you add high-power output device like stereo with hi output or fan, heater, lightings,… on your car you should considering installed the second battery, Maybe lithium battery with combiner battery, never charge lithium battery directly with alternator. Voltage sagging is usually because you wire is to small, batteries don’t have enough energy or both.
Awesome video, Thanks for the shoot out!
Thank you, glad you liked it.
I just bought a 380amp alt 225 at idle going into a 2.5L bmw m56
Great vid, just what I needed to know...
Glad you liked it!
Thanks great n simple video... Good going
Saved me from swapping a 220 on my 03 5.9 cummins, came stock with a 136, I'll swap the 6.7s 180.
Glad you you found it helpful
No vid.i like the approach not much not to lil...and great knowledge. Well laid out video...nice and smooth!!! Keep it up!!!
Thank you, I will, I appreciate that